Charming Christmas Ornaments

Happy Christmas in July to everyone! It’s LeAnne from Everyday Celebrations with a fun and Christmassy project for you all. I have to say it was a little fun doing a Christmas project in June because I already have some of my handmade gifts crossed off my list! However, something not fun was the fact that the weekend I worked on these, it was 120 F degrees outside. (I live in Arizona.) As far from Christmassy weather as you can get. This project is simple, fun, and something you can do with your entire family. There are lots of options to make this project reflect you and your family’s Christmas decor and traditions.

{for all ornaments}
1 mini-charm pack  and/or
1 to 2 charm packs (depending on how many and whether you want identical ornaments)
1 fat quarter for initials (depending on how many you are making the solid charm squares may be sufficient)
scraps of cotton batting
baker’s twine or other desired string for hanging
1 to 2 skeins white embroidery floss
1 yard fusible webbing (I prefer Heat n’ Bond Ultrahold)
embroidery needle
doll needle or other needle with large eye for adding hanging loops

{handprint ornament supplies}
solid squares from charm pack or 1 fat quarter for initials
fabric or acrylic paint
foam brush
black embroidery floss (to embroider the year)

Note: The printable PDF includes the text for all the ornaments and hexi templates. When you print these pages, just print them flipped or mirror so the letters are backwards for fusible web.  If you don’t know how to do this, just print normally and tape the paper to a sunny window with the back facing you. Then trace onto fusible web. Or you can always print off your own letter!

Below are instructions for all the ornaments. All ornaments are finished the same way so those steps are at the very end.

{Handprint Ornament} 

I love making handprint memorabilia with my girls. These ornaments are rather large, but they still look wonderful on the tree. (They are the full 5″ with the corners trimmed.) Every year I have my girls make an ornament for their Grandmas. So this is their Grandma ornament for this year! 

1. First, select two 5″ charm squares for each ornament. Next, you will want to put a handprint on the charms you picked for the ornament backs. (I found using less busy prints helped the handprint standout more.) Tape the charms to a piece of cardboard at each corner. (After doing this I found it helpful to tape at each corner instead of just the top. The fabric can move quite a bit.) Paint your child’s hand generously with fabric or acrylic paint. Help them place their hand in the middle of the square and press their hand firmly down to get a nice print. Allow to dry.

2. I cut the corners of my squares after adding the handprint to give more of an ‘ornament’ shape. To make a template, simply take the cardboard that comes with the charm pack and cut each corner at a 45 degree angle. (I used the 45 degree mark on my cutting mat to make it consistent. Cut ornament fronts, backs, and batting using the template. Trim batting so it’s slightly smaller than the fabric.

3. If desired, embroider the year on the back with the handprint using a backstitch.

4.  To make initials trace the appropriate letter on to fusible webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. (A set of letters is included in the printable PDF.) I used my Cricut to cut my letters. If you have one, or another digital craft cutter, check out my tutorial for cutting fabric with the Cricut.

To finish the ornament, see the finishing section.

 {Hexagon Ornaments}

I love hexis! These are fun and much smaller than the handprint ornaments. (Perfect if you have kids whose hands are too big for the charms.) I made a set of mini hexi ornaments for my family with our initials. I also made a large hexi ornament that says JOY.

 1. First, select two squares for each ornament. Cut front, back, and batting using the hexagon template. (Included in the printable PDF.  I included both a large and small hexi template.) Trim batting so it’s slightly smaller than the fabric.

2. To add text or initials, trace the appropriate letter(s) on to fuisble webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. (I included a small set of letters in the printable PDF and the JOY letters.)

To finish the ornament, see the finishing section.

{Square Ornaments}

For these ornments I used the mini-charms. Select two for each ornament.

1. Select ornament front and back.  Cut a piece of batting slightly smaller than the squares.

2. Trace letters onto fusible webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. 

3. To make the JOY ornament, string together the three squares after finishing.

{Finishing}

You can either finish the ornaments by hand with a blanket stitch or by machine. 

Blanket Stitch

1.  Place the back wrong side up with the batting on top. Thread a needle with embroidery floss and knot the end. Pass needle through the batting. Place ornament top on the batting and use a blanket stitch around the ornament. (I am not an embroidery pro by any stretch so here is my favorite tutorial on the blanket stitch. So helpful!)

Machine

1. Layer the ornament back, batting, and ornament top together. Pin in the middle. Machine stitch with a generous 1/4″ seam around the ornament. Backstitch at the end. 

Hanging Loop

1. Thread a needle with baker’s twine, or other string, and thread through the top of the ornaments. Cut to desired length and tie off. (Since baker’s twine is thicker, I used a doll needle with a large eye to add the hanging loop.)

Lots of fun and festive Christmas ornaments! 

LeAnne Ballard
{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

Moda Bake Shop Basics: Perfect Pressing

Oda May here for another installment of Moda Bake Shops Basics. Today we welcome Liz from Simple Simon and Co. with tips for perfect pressing.
I used to think that “pressing” and “ironing” were the same thing until one fateful night…

I was at my pattern drafting class which was taught by a wonderfully eccentric retired wedding dress designer.  The instructor was helping me with a dress and sent me over to “press” a seam.

I walked over to the ironing board and began my version of “pressing”.  Within seconds I was being very LOUDLY reprimanded and then spent the next 2 hours learning (and practicing) the differences between “pressing” and “ironing”. 

At the time I wasn’t thrilled with the lesson and would have rather worked on the dress but now I am so happy to have had her intervene and insist that I learn how to properly press.  That lesson has made all the difference in my sewing.

 

Here’s what I learned (and still use) concerning pressing:

#1.  Pressing and ironing are not the same thing! 

Pressing involves lifting and lowering your iron onto the desired area while ironing involves pushing your iron across the desired area.  (When you press it’s: lift, lower, press, lift, lower, press.  When you iron its just a back and forth sliding motion.)  With pressing it’s the combination of the heat, pressure, and steam that allows you to mold and shape your fabric.   

#2.  When pressing, always press on the wrong side of your fabric.

Pressing on the wrong side of the fabric allows you to properly see all the seams and therefore to press them as crisply and correctly as possible.

#3.  Before pressing your seams open always press them flat first.

If you press your seams flat before pressing them open you will be able to “set” the stitches into the fabric.  It makes for a crisper fold and will help to eliminate puckers.

#4.  Never press over the top of tape or pins.

Pins will leave imprints and scratch your iron while tape will melt and leave goo all over your iron and fabric.

#5.  Take care of that seam allowance.

You can slide an envelope or piece of cardstock between your seam allowance and top fabric to avoid having your seam allowance press through and mark the front of your fabric.

(See the difference?)

#6.  Use the correct setting on your iron.

Choose the correct setting for your fabric.  If your iron is too cool your pressing won’t be as sharp as it could be.  If your iron is too hot your iron can stick to the fabric or cause it to melt, pucker, and even smoke!  ( I know all of this from sad, sad, experience…especially with synthetic fabrics….)  If you are unsure which setting to use test it first on a scrap of the fabric that you are planning to use and see how it reacts to your iron.

#7.  Iron all fabric before beginning any project.

Before cutting any fabric for your next project iron it first.  (Yes, I said iron and not press.  In this case ironing is perfectly acceptable.)  Ironing will help to ensure accurate cutting.  Even if it may seem unnecessary, time consuming, or just a plain old pain I promise it will be worth it in the end and will always help to give your project (whatever that may be) a more professional look.

Pressing should indeed work hand in hand along with you and your sewing machine through any project…whether it be in constructing a garment or creating a quilt top.  Proper pressing techniques can make the difference between a good finished product and a great one. 

Now, depending on your project there are further pressing tips, tricks, and techniques that can be discussed.  But in general the 7 tips I shared today are always good to follow as a rule of thumb.

Thank you Moda for having us over today to share a few things that we’ve learned along the way through our adventures in sewing!

-liZ

Simple Simon and Company

Thanks, Liz! Be sure and check out more Simple Simon and Co. tutorials on the Moda Bake Shop.



Road Fifteen Sixteen Patch Quilt

My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting and I am so excited to share this quilt with you.  Road 15 is such an inspiring collection and this was such a fun and quick quilt to put together.  I hope you enjoy the tutorial!

2 Road 15 jelly rolls
2/3 yard Road 15 print for binding
2.5 yards Moda Bella in Gray
5 yards Road 15 print for the backing fabric

1.  Take 72 strips from your jelly rolls and put them into pairs.  You want each pair to have one lighter strip and one darker strip so that there is good contrast between them.

2.  Cut each jelly roll strip in half at the fold. 

3.  Take one half from each jelly roll strip and piece them together along the long edge.  I didn’t pin my strips, but it is important to try piece these as accurately as possible.

 4.  Piece the pairs together along the long sides so that thee colors alternate; here I have blue – black – blue- black.  This should create one piece that is 8.5″ by roughly 22″.  There is a little leeway in the second measurement so if yours is a little shorter that is okay.

5.  Trim one edge. Line up your ruler with the lines on your fabric to make sure that you are cutting perpendicular to the pieces that you have just sewn.

6.  Start cutting 2.5″ strips from the trimmed edge.  This is where you will be glad that you pieced accurately in the previous steps.  If you didn’t sew them perfectly straight, you might need to occasionally re-square the edge of the fabric.  I know that I did.

7.  You should now have 8 pieces that are 2.5″x8.5″.

8.  Flip over every other strip.

9.  Sew them into pairs.

10.  And then pairs again so that you create 2 blocks that are 8.5″ square.

11,  Cut your sashing fabric into 12 strips that are 2.5″xWOF.
12.  Subcut these strips into pieces that are 2.5″x8.5″.  You should be able to get five 8.5″ pieces from each WOF strip.
13.  Sew a one 8.5″x2.5″ strip between each set of blocks and continue joining the blocks until you have diagonal columns.  There should be a single block in the top left corner, then 3 blocks, 5 blocks, 7 blocks, 9 blocks, 11 blocks, 11 blocks, 9 blocks, 7 blocks, 5 blocks, 3 blocks, until you get back to just 1 block in the bottom right corner.

14.  Cut twenty-three 2.5″xWOF pieces for the sashing that is going the opposite diagonal direction.  Cut off the selvage if you haven’t already and sew these strips together along the short side so that you have strips measuring:

• 2 strips 20″ long
• 2 strips 35″ long
• 2 strips 55″ long
• 2 strips 75″ long
• 2 strips 95″ long
• 1 strip 115″ long

15.  Since we are going to trim the blocks along the outer edge, these strips don’t need to reach from edge to edge on the quilt.  Just try your best to center them over each diagonal row and piece together.  The measurements give you more than 5″ extra so you have a little wiggle room.
16.  Once you have added the sashing, piece together the diagonal rows.
17.  Trim the edges to make the quilt square.
18.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

An almost-twin sized quilt that is about 72″x85″. 

I think he likes it, what do you think? 

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Boho Patchwork Vintage Star Quilt

Thanks for checking out my latest Moda Bake Shop recipe!  I’m Sarah, from Sweet Dreams by Sarah, and you can visit my blog to read a little more about my inspiration for this quilt, and to get a sneak peek of other projects that I’m working on.  I mostly make baby quilts, because frankly, I like immediate gratification.  Even though this is a lap-sized quilt, it comes together so quickly, it will be done before you know it!

I love the modern feel of a traditional block that’s blown up, so today we’re making a giant vintage star, using patchwork to give it a fun, scrappy feel.  Let’s get started!

1 Boho Layer Cake
3 Yards Bella Porcelain
4 Yards of any coordinating yardage for backing – I used No. 31091-18 in Rain and No. 31095-14 in Whisper (you will also have some leftover Layer Cake pieces that you can use to make the backing more scrappy)
5/8 Yard Binding – I used No. 31094-14 in Rain
Cotton batting, measuring at least 70″ by 70″

Cutting:
First, we need to sort the Layer Cake.  The great thing about this project is that you can really use any Layer Cake that has definite color ways, plus some lower contrast prints.  You’ll want to pull the following from your Layer Cake:

Four colorway-sorted piles, with at least 4 different prints in each:

A lower contrast or multicolored pile, with at least 8 different prints:

Set aside the rest of the layer cake, as we’ll be using that for the borders!

Keeping each pile together, cut the squares in quarters, giving you little stacks of 5″ squares.

Remaining cutting:
From the Porcelain background yardage:

• 6 squares that measure 14″, and 4 squares that measure 13 1/2″
• 8 strips 3 3/4″ by width of fabric (WOF)

From binding fabric:

• 7 strips 2 1/2″ by WOF

Now that we have all the pieces, let’s get sewing!  We’ll be using a 1/4″ seam for all seams.

Using the squares we cut in the first step, and working with one color pile at a time, sew the squares into nine-patches.  Pick out 9 5″ squares from one of the colorways, and lay them out, trying to make it as scrappy looking as possible:

Sew the squares together into rows:

 And press out the rows with the seams going in opposite directions so that you can nest the seams:

 Sew the rows together and press for your nine-patch:

You’ll need 1 nine-patch in each colorway, and 2 in the low contrast fabrics.

Next, we need to mark those 14″ squares we cut from the background fabric.  Mark the diagonal across the square, with your preferred marking tool.  We’re going to be sewing on either side of that line, so make sure you can see it.  Lay one of your nine-patches down, right side up, and then lay the background square on top, with your marking facing up.

Pin this together, and then sew on either side of the line, 1/4″ away from the line:

Do this with all 6 of the 9 patches that you’ve made up, and then go ahead and cut on those lines that you drew, going right between the lines that you sewed.

 Press these open, and you’ll see that you now have patchwork half square triangles!

You should now have 16 blocks to work with – the 12 half square triangles, plus the 4 13 1/2″ background squares.  Using your design wall or your floor, arrange them for your quilt center.  Be sure to pair up the two half square triangles for the main colorways together, as you can see below:

Sew these squares together to create the center of the quilt.  To help the seams to line up, I usually handle this piecing in quadrants.  I sew together the 4 blocks in the upper left hand corner, then upper right, etc., to create bigger “chunks” that are much easier to manage when matching up corners.

Next, we’ll add the inner border.  Grab the 3 3/4″ strips that you cut from the background.  Take 2 of them, and sew together end to end, to make a double-long strip.

Do this with all 8 strips, so that you have 4 double-long strips – one for each side of the quilt.  Press the seam to one side, and pin to the edges of your quilt center, matching up the seam between the two strips to the seam in the middle of the side of the quilt:

Sew the strips onto the quilt center, using a quarter inch seam:

Sew these strips on the right and left side first, pressing and squaring up these sides before sewing the strips on the other two sides:

Next, we’ll work on the outer border.  Grab the extra 5″ charms that were left over from your 9-patches.  We need a total of 58, so pull about 5 more pieces from the layer cake – just choose your favorite prints here, as we’re still going for a scrappy look – and cut them into 5″ squares.

Choose 13 of the squares, and sew them end to end in a long strip.  Be sure to use a 1/4″ seam! I loosely arranged my squares by color so that I could control the color distribution a big as I sew them together.

Choose another 13, and sew them end to end as well.  Be sure to press these long strips well, and pin them onto opposite sides of the quilt.  Sew each strip onto opposite sides of the the quilt center.

Next, choose 15 squares, and sew them end to end in a long strip.  Do this twice also, which will give you the final borders to attach to the quilt.

Press it all well, and your quilt top is done!  The leftover layer cake pieces can be used in putting together your backing, or you can simply use yardage.  In this case, I used a few layer cake pieces to connect two pieces of yardage, for a scrappy looking back.

Quilt as desired, and use the 2 1/2″ strips that we cut from the binding fabric to construct your binding strips.  I bound this quilt using my preferred method of initially sewing the binding onto the back of the quilt, and then sewing on the front – both by machine.

One 67×67″ lap quilt!

This quilt pattern can also be simplified and made a bit smaller by stopping after you finish the quilt center!  I made this version, using a Twirl (by My Sister and Me) layer cake, and it measures approx. 52″ by 52″.

Sarah Connolly
{www.sweetdreamsbysarah.com}

Positively Epic Quilt

Positively Epic is a quilt that very much lives up to its name! It’s epic in proportion in the fact that it is a queen size quilt of 105” x 105” along with a positive charge of opposites attract with the use of black and white. Not to mention it is also a positive attraction for the use of modern chic and traditional designs with the use of nine patch blocks. Positively Epic is a great quilt for a beginner quilter to a veteran quilter.

(4) Black Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 98
(4) White Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 99
(4) Yards of Black Bella Solid 9900 98 for border and binding
(3) Yards of 108 backing

Please read all instructions prior to making this quilt! All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.

Cutting Directions 
Cut each layer cake into: (2) 3 ½” x 10” rectangles and subcut into (4) 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares
Layer cakes can be cut up to four sheets at a time. Any more than four layers will cause stretching of the fabric. 
Total black squares needed: 548
Total white squares needed: 545

From the 4 yards of Black Bella Solids cut (3) continuous yards from the existing four yards. From the three yards cut: (2) 3 ½” x LOF (length of fabric) = (4) 3 ½” x LOF strips

{pressing and assembly guide}

Making the Plus Signs

• For the Black Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares. 
• For the White Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares 
• Sew them into rows of three according to the diagram below. 
• Press seams of each row according to the arrows. 

• Next sew the three rows together but first match and pin the seams, then sew.
• Press seams according to the arrows 

• Here are the finished results of both plus signs. All blocks should be 9 ½” x 9 ½” 

 

 Making the Rows 

• Start with a white plus sign for the first row.
• Then sew the white plus sign to a black plus sign. 
• Next add a white plus sign to the opposite side of the black plus sign. 
• Alternate plus signs until eleven blocks are sewn together for one row 
• Press seams according to the arrows 

 …Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row. 

• The next row will alternate from the first row. 
• Start with a black plus sign for the second row. 
• Then sew a black plus sign to a white plus sign. 
• Next add a black plus sign to the opposite side of the white plus sign 
• Press seams according to the arrows. 

  … Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row.

There will be (6) rows starting with the white plus signs and (5) rows starting with the black plus signs. In all there will be eleven rows to sew together for this quilt.

Sewing the Rows Together 

•  Start with one white plus sign row, and then match the seam to a black plus sign row. 
• Pin seams and sew the row together. 
• Repeat the same process with the next row. 

 
 ….. Continue alternating rows until all eleven rows are sewn together. 

Adding the Border 

• Starting with the length of the quilt add the 3 ½” x LOF to each side of the quilt. 
• Press seams towards the darker fabric. 
• Evenly cut any excess fabric from both borders to match with the quilt center. 
• Next add the remaining borders to the width of the quilt. 
• Again evenly cut off any excess fabric to match the length borders evenly. 

Finishing the Quilt
Layer the quilt into a sandwich of backing, batting and then the quilt top, baste, and then quilt. Or take the quilt top to a local machine quilter to have the quilt completed. Once quilting is completed, add the binding

105”x 105”

Jennifer Overstreet
{www.ghquilting.com}
{jennifer@ghquilting.com}

Pattern designed and written by Jennifer Overstreet for Moda Bake Shop

Photos by Jennifer Overstreet

http://www.ghquilting.com | Copyright © 2013 All Rights Reserved 

Winter Wonderland Quilt

It’s never too early to get excited for Christmas! And since this whimsical wintery quilt requires a fair amount of hand-stitching, you’ll want to give yourself plenty of time to complete it. I love the meditate quality of applique, and its handmade nature is well-suited to holiday decor. Feel free to play around with different color combinations– a black background would be very striking, or a white one would emphasize the snowy feel of this scene.

Two Bella Solids Charm Packs (SKU# 9900PP-20)
One Bella Solids Moda Candy/Mini Charm Pack (SKU# 9900MC-30A)
1 1/2 Yards Bella Solids Gray for background and binding
1/2 Yard Bella Solids Snow for tree
1 Yard Christmas Countdown for backing
Card stock or preferred template material
Fabric pen or pencil

1. First, create four circle templates: one large 4 1/2″-diameter, one medium 3 1/2″-diameter, one small 2 1/2″-diameter, and one tiny 1 1/2″-diameter.

2. From the 5″ charms, trace and cut a total of 7 large circles and 24 medium circles, cutting along the traced line.

3. Trace a small circle in the center of each large circle, then cut out inside the traced line, allowing a generous 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat with tiny circles in the center of each medium circle. You should have donut-shaped fabric pieces.

4. Trace a tiny circle on 24 of the 2″ charms, and cut out allowing a generous 1/4″ seam around the traced line circle. Do the same with the small circles, tracing them onto the 5″ squares and cutting out with a generous 1/4″ seam around the drawn line.

5. From the Bella Solids Snow, cut one rectangle 8 1/2″ x 4″ and another 17″ x 21″. Take the larger rectangle and fold it in half along the 21″ length, then trace a diagonal as shown. Cut along the traced line through both layers so that when you unfold the fabric you have a triangle.

6. From the gray fabric, cut a rectangle 42″ x 38″. Lay the triangle and rectangle in the lower left corner of the background fabric, approximately 2″ from the side and bottom. Since you will be folding under 1/4″ around the edges of both shapes when you applique, they should be overlapping a 1/4″ so that when you sew, the folded edges will be touching. Pin in place.

7. Arrange the circles on the tree and the upper right portion of the quilt top as you like. Each two-toned circle consists of either a large circle with a small circle layered (and centered) beneath it, or a medium circle with a tiny circle layered beneath it. I placed 2 large circles and 5 medium circles in the tree itself, then arranged the rest in a billowing motion starting at the top of the tree. Pin all pieces in place (I find it easiest to use safety pins for all initial pinning, then replacing these with straight pins as I begin stitching each segment).

8. Time for some hand stitching! The outside of the tree body and the tree stump are stitched with regular applique, folding under about a 1/4″ along the edges as you sew. I folded the top tip of the tree so it was flat for about 1/2″.

The circles are stitched with a combination of regular and reverse applique. Work on one circle at a time; first, cut into the interior 1/4″ seam allowance every 1/4″ or so, then reverse applique the interior in place, stitching through the quilt back and the smaller circle that’s layered underneath while folding the seam allowance under as you go. Then, stitch the exterior of the circle using regular applique, folding under a scant 1/4″. 

9. When you’re done with the appliqué, baste and quilt as desired. I stitched curlicues in the center of each circle, then swirls in the exteriors. I chose a loose and wavy stitch for the background to accentuate the winter wonderland feel. Use the remaining gray fabric for the quilt’s binding.

One festive wall quilt (38″ x 48″) to hang up during the holidays. You could also use it as a table centerpiece for a yuletide fete.

Pippa Armbrester
{www.pippapatchwork.com}

3D Pinwheel Throw Quilt

Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I’m Anjeanette and I am so happy to be back with you, sharing this adorable new quilt. Come visit me anytime at byAnjeanette.blogspot.com. When I saw this new line from Bonnie and Camille, I knew it had to be made into something fun and whimsical.  Enter a 3 dimensional pinwheel to fit the bill.

1 Fat Eight Stack  
3 3/4 yards Penny White 55065-19
1 yard Penny Lime 55065-13
4 yards Hop Navy 55062-17 (Backing)
1 yard Red 55064-11 (Binding)

Starch your fabric first. We are sewing on the bias and it will help to keep the fabric stabilized. We are also going to end up with a really dense seam in the pinwheel with all the layers of the fabric. Normally I use a scant seam, or skinnier than 1/4”. But for this throw, I suggest to sew with a larger than 1/4” seam. The seams in the pinwheel have many layers of fabric and I find that it is easier to get a nice flat pressed seam when there is more of a seam to press.

From the white, cut:
10 WOF (Width of Fabric) X 6″
               Sub cut into 6″ squares total of (56) 6″ squares cut in half diagonally

14 WOF X 5″
               Sub cut into 5″ squares  total of (112) 5″ squares 

 From the green, cut:
5 WOF X 6.5″
                 Sub cut into 6.5″ squares total of (28) 6.5″ squares

From the fat eight stack you will need to cut (28) 9″ squares.

There are two blocks for this throw, a square in a square, and a dimensional pinwheel.

To make the square in a square block you will need four white triangles and one green square.

Fold your green square in half lengthwise and then again in half width wise. Press to get your center markings. Alternately, you could pin the center of each side if you prefer. Fold your triangles in half and press.

  Matching your pressed lines, match two side triangles to the sides of the square and pin in place.

Sew side seams and press towards the white.

Flip over and trim off the excess corner points.

Layer the last two triangles, sew and press towards the white again.

Trim your square to 9 1/2” There shouldn’t be much to trim off.

Make 28 of these blocks.

To make the dimensional pinwheel block:

Start with two contrasting 9 X 9” squares cut from your fat eight stack. Layer together, right sides together. Draw diagonal lines from corner to corner in an X and then from top to bottom and side to side like a +. Sew 1/4” on both sides of the line from the X. With your rotary cutter, cut directly on the lines of the + from top to bottom and then from side to side. Then cut along the diagonal lines.

You just made 8 HST or Half Square Triangles.

Open up your squares and then fold in half with wrong sides facing each other. Topstitch along the folded edge with about 1/8” topstitch. This little step is going to help keep the shape of the pinwheels once you wash your quilt. Trim off the dog ears or the overhanging corners.

To make your pinwheel block, take four white 5” squares and two sets of triangles.

 

Layer your triangles on top and in the corner of each white square. The right side of the white squares should be facing up/the triangles. Pin the right side. Take the bottom of the triangle and fold it over to the right lower corner. Topstitch with 1/8” seam along the right side and the bottom of the triangle.

Press. I found that I wanted my pinwheel pressed quite flat because it helped when I got to the part with all the layers of fabric.

Lay out your four squares to make the shape of a pinwheel.

Sew the top two pieces together (remember we are using a seam that is just a bit bigger than a regular 1/4” seam here.) Press the seam open. It is going to be a chunky/thick seam.

Sew the bottom two squares the same way and press well.

 
Layer your top and bottom together, right sides facing. I placed a pin in the center of the top seam and matched it with the bottom seam to hold it in place. Because of the bulk of the fabric, clips like the one you would use to bind, are very helpful to hold the layers together. 

Sew and press open.

 

Make 28 of these blocks.

Alternate your square in a square blocks with pinwheel blocks. Sew into rows. Sew rows into your top.

Quilt and bind.

*Because of the dimension of the pinwheels, when you are quilting you may find it easier to pin each pinwheel flap back.

 

My boys think this is the perfect quilt to lay on the grass and read. I think it is the perfect quilt for a picnic.

Either way, I think the dimension of the pinwheel makes for a fun quilt.

If you decide to make one too, please remember to share it with me. I’d love to see it!

I couldn’t resist these piggies next to the dimensional pinwheel. Makes me so happy.

A roughly 63” X 72” Epic Summer 3 Dimensional Pinwheel Throw

Anjeanette Klinder
{byAnjeanette.blogspot.com}

Cobblestone Path Quilt

Hi everyone, my name is Pauline Francis and I blog over at Quilt n Queen.   I’m happy to be back to share with you my second recipe for the Moda Bake Shop.  This recipe is super fast and easy and makes a lap size quilt.  This is my new ‘go to‘ pattern to make a donation quilt or as I like to call them…comfort quilts.  With careful cutting I was able to cut enough blocks from one Dessert roll to make two lap size quilts.  Do you know what a Moda Dessert Roll is?  It’s 20 strips of fabric that are 5 inches wide and 44″ in length, tied in a roll with a Moda twill ribbon.  Have you every used a Dessert Roll?   Let’s get started…you will need…

1 Marble Ombre Dessert Roll 9883DR
2 yards of Bella White 9900 98 for sashing and borders
3 yards Marble Ombre Dot Lime 9883 17 for backing and binding.  I was going to use the pink but I had enough fabric left from squaring up my quilt after it was quilted to make the binding…I will use the pink in another Marble Ombre Dots project.  It’s a Moda basic you are going to love.

• 1/4” seam allowance throughout
• remove salvages before cutting strips and rectangles

CUTTING

1. From the Moda Bella White cut:

• 14 strips lengthwise 2.5″ x 72″, set 10 strips aside for sashing and borders
• 50 rectangles 2.5″ x 5″ from the remaining 4 strips

2. From the Dessert Roll select 10 different strips and cut:

• 24 rectangles 9.5″ x 5″ 
• 25 rectangles 5.5″ x 5″

PIECING:

1. With right sides together chain piece the 5″ edge of a Bella white rectangle to both 5″ ends of the 5.5″ x 5″ rectangle.  

2. Set the seams and press the seams towards the dark.  I will call this block “A”.

3. Once you have your pieced blocks pressed you will make 7 rows with 7 blocks in each row.  Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 will start with an “A” block.  Rows 2, 4, and 6 will start with the 9.5″ x 5″ rectangle followed by an “A” block.  Arrange the blocks to your liking.

4.  Measure the length of your pieced strips… from the 10 strips you set aside for sashing and borders cut 8 of them the length of your pieced strips.  They should all measure approximately  63.5 inches.  The 2 remaining strips are for the top and bottom border.

TIP:  I pin both ends first, then the middle of the strip and then I pin the rest, always dividing the space in half.   I would say I am a ‘pinner’…it is faster to pin than to unstitch.  When I attach my sashing to the pieced block strips, I pin RST…with the sashing strip on the bottom and sew with the sashing strip next to the sewing machine.  The pieced strip is on the top…that way you can see the seams and do not have any of the seams changing direction under your presser foot.

The picture below is another version of the quilt using Bella Black for the sashing and borders.  The completed quilt is pictured at the end of the tutorial.

5.  Stitch the side borders and the sashings to the pieced strips.  Press the seams towards the sashing/border…it just lays better.

6.  Now it is time to stitch the vertical strips together.   Align the seams so they will nest.  Your smaller block will be centered with the rectangle when the vertical strips are stitched together…again stitch with the pieced block strip on the top and the sashing next to the sewing machine.

7.  Stitch the vertical strips together…press seams towards the sashing. I like to stitch strips 1 & 2 together…then 3 & 4 together…5 & 6 and lastly 7 & outer border.    Set the seams and press towards the sashing.  Then I join 1 & 2 with 3 & 4…and 5 & 6 with 7.  Then 1 2 3 & 4 with 5 6 & 7.  Voila, you are almost finished…the only step left to do is add the top and bottom borders.  Measure your quilt top a few inches from the top, in the middle and a few inches from the bottom.  The measurements should be approximately 48.5 inches.  Attach top and bottom borders.

8. Quilt and bind as desired.  

…and a view of the back…

I love the ombre look…I was able to line up the binding to match the shading of the backing.  

It is hard to pick a favorite…I love all three on the Cobblestone quilts hanging on the line.  

The middle one is made with Kate Spain’s Honey Honey and Bella white.   I used the left over Dessert roll pieces to make a pieced backing and a scrappy binding.  

The one on the left is made with the other half of the Marble Ombre Dots Dessert Roll with Bella Black for the sashing and backing.  

The binding is Bella Black and I added piping using Marble Ombre Dots Lime, the quilting was done with a variegated thread.

A lap size quilt approximately 48″ x 68″.  The dark one is perfect for a picnic.

Thanks for stopping by the Moda Bakeshop today to check out my recipe.  It has been a lot of fun baking with Moda.  I would love for you to stop by and visit my blog.  

Have a wonderful wonderful day!!

Happy stitching,  

Pauline Francis

www.quiltnqueen.blogspot.com

Speedy Christmas Tree Skirt

Leah Douglas again from thebuggspot.blogspot.com here to celebrate Christmas in July. Hope you enjoy this simple little tree skirt pattern!

1 jelly roll Holiday in the Pines by Holly Taylor
1 1/3 yds. Ivory snowflake fabric (6513 11)
1 1/2 yds. Ivory big print boughs (6511 11)
1 1/2 yds. red ribbon
batting
ivory thread
dark green thread

The following instructions always assume a 1/4″ seam.

Step One: Pick 5 of the green strips from your jelly roll and sew them together, side by side. Press seams in the same direction. Then cut at a 45 degree angle to create 8 “trees”, like this:

Using the ivory snowflake material, cut 8 strips measuring 4″ wide. Line up and sew a tree 4″ below the selvage on the ivory material, like so:

Press towards the green and trim the ivory material like this…: 

…and like this:

Using the rest of the ivory strip you just cut off, sew onto the other side of the tree:

Press towards the green and trim:

Make 8 trees total in this way. 

Step Two: Choose 10 jelly roll strips that are NOT green or ivory for your “presents” beneath the tree. Cut lots of different presents in several sizes. I came up with:

          30   2″ squares

          32   1 1/2″ squares

          18   tall boxes: 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″

          20   wide boxes: 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″

          24   2 1/2″ squares

Using the ivory snowflake fabric, cut complementary background pieces for your presents: 

          30   1″ x 2″ rectangles

          32   1 1/2″ squares

          20   1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

Sew your complimentary pieces together and press seams towards the darker fabrics:

Arrange your presents the way you like, in a somewhat random way, and then sew together into one ENORMOUS strip. This strip needs to measure a good 160″ or more. Press seams towards the darker fabrics. 

Using more ivory snowflake material, cut 4 strips measuring 1 1/2″ wide:

Sew these 4 strips end to end, press open seams, and then sew this background strip to the tops of your looooong present strip. Press seams towards the presents. This strip should be 3 1/2″ wide.

I failed to take pictures of the next part. =/ I like to blame it on the toddlers in the house. 😉

Cut this enormous strip of presents into 10″ chunks. You will need 16 total. 

Take the solid brown strip from the jelly roll and cut it into 8 rectangles measuring 3 1/2″ x 2″. 

Sew a 10″ present strip onto either side of this brown tree trunk. Do the same for the remaining 7 trunks.

Step Three: Take one of your 8 trees from step one. Pin the very center of the bottom of each tree:

Pin your tree trunks to the bottom center of each tree:

Sew together, press towards the green, and trim either side like so:

Step Four: Lay out your blocks and sew them all together into one enormous circle:

Step Five: Lay out your backing (ivory large boughs) and batting and quilt that baby all together:

Now cut out a small circle in the very center of your quilt (I traced around one of my fiesta bowls, about 8″ in diameter, then folded my quilt in half and cut out a half circle, which of course was actually a full circle upon unfolding the quilt). Also cut a straight line down the middle between two of your trees from the edge of the quilt to this new center circle:

Using 6 brown strips from the jelly roll, make your binding and bind the quilt, as in the picture above.

Step Six: Using the red ribbon, cut 4 lengths measuring about 11″. You want one end cut perpendicular and the other end at an angle:

Roll the perpendicular side over twice and pin in place:

Measure down and mark 3″ from the inner circle along the back of the tree skirt (on the BACKING, not the front):

Pin the ribbon in place at that mark, rolled side down. 

Sew in place (be sure to back stitch at the beginning and the end):

Do the same for the other ribbons (I ended up sewing the ribbons on the outer edge 4″ from the edge instead of 3″):

You’re done!

One Christmas Tree Skirt measuring 47″ point to point

Leah Douglas
{thebuggspot.blogspot.com}

A note from Oda May – If you have trouble or questions about cutting the 45 degree trees, see Leah’s blog post {here}.

The Valencia Street Bike Basket

Hi! It’s me, Palak– owner of Make It Handmade and a very proud mom. My biggest little one just ‘graduated’ from his tricycle to a 2 wheeler with training wheels. So far, his bike rides have been limited to riding from the backyard to the front yard; but I know this is just a sign of more independence to come.

To send him on his way in style; I decided to make him (and his sister) bike baskets to take with them where ever they go.

These bike baskets are made with just 2 fat quarters and a bit of interfacing or batting and are deep enough to accommodate all the summer essentials– a teddy bear, a princess cup, and those pebbles that were too shiny to leave at the park.

  The very best part? At the end of the summer; you can toss them in the wash, and they’ll look brand new for the first day of school. 

And even though Valencia Street Bike Basket was designed for the preschool set, it’s large enough that you can ‘borrow’ it for your own adult bike.
 

2 Fat quarters (I chose prints from Road 15 by Sweetwater)
4 12 inch lengths of ribbon
18″ x 22″ piece of quilt batting, or sturdy fusible or sew in interfacing

These bike baskets come together very quickly! I was able to finish the red and black bike basket (my second one) in about half an hour; from cutting to loading it up with stuffed animals.  When deciding whether to make a velcro or ribbon closure, consider the the bike– ribbon closures will work on any bike or trike.  To use the velcro closure you must have a bike with a bar between the handle bars.

Let’s get started! 

If you are using fusible fleece or interfacing fuse the lining and interfacing together before starting. If you are using quilt batting or a sew in interfacing, pin the batting/interfacing to the wrong side of the lining, and treat them as one piece of fabric from this point on. I used a heavy canvas lining which you will see in the pictures.

Trim the two fat quarters to get rid of the selvage and ensure they are the same size. Fat quarter sizes vary slightly from brand to brand; but this tutorial will work as long as your pieces are the same size. 

Fold your outer fabric fat quarter into fourths. Cut a 6 inch square from the corner without any folds. Do this for the lining as well. Set those squares aside- we might be using them later!

When you unfold the fat quarters, you should see something like a chubby plus sign. The middle is the base of the basket, while the ‘arms’ of the plus sign are the sides.  

 Using the outer fabric, fold the corners together as shown and sew with a 3/8 seam allowance. In the picture below, I’m sewing the bottom left corner.

 To insert the ribbon ties, pin the 12 inch strips of ribbon 1 inch from the top of seam before sewing the last two corners together. Do this on opposite corners of one of the long sides.

 Do this for the same thing (without the ribbons) for the lining. When you are finished you should have two ‘baskets’– one much floppier than the other.

Press the outer fabric seam allowances toward the short sides of the basket; and press the lining seams towards the long sides of the basket.

 With right sides touching, place the outer basket in the lining basket.

 Pin all the way around, making sure to nest the seams as you go. Sew all around using a 3/8 seam allowance leaving a small opening for turning.

Turn your project through that small opening and press! Top stitch a 1/4 inch from the top of the basket making sure to close the opening you left for turning.

 You are finished and ready to ride!

Velcro Closure

I knew my son wouldn’t appreciate those oh-so-girly ribbon ties; so his basket has a velcro closure. The velcro closure will only work on bikes with a bar between the handle bars.  To add velcro, first make up a basket just as before; leaving out the ribbon.

 Take 2 of the 6 inch squares set aside earlier and place them right sides together (layer the batting on the outiside. Stitch around all sides of the square leaving a small hole for turning. Turn the square out and press well.

 Sew the velcro to the square as shown.

Position and pin the velcro patch so it is centered horizontally and overhangs the basket on top by about an inch.  Attach the square to the basket with two lines of stitching– one  across the middle of the square and one above the bottom piece of velcro.

Although you will see the stitching on the inside of the basket, stitching through the outer fabric, lining and interfacing will give the velcro band more strength.

Tips and Tricks:

• If you can’t find matching ribbon for the ribbon ties; you can use a leftover square to piece together 4 12 inch ‘ribbons’. 
• For the velcro strap, if you have access to the bike, consider making the strap the exact length of the bar. This will make the strap even sturdier and the basket better able to handle heavy loads.
• Consider using one of your scrap squares to applique a name or initial to personalize the basket for your little one.

One stylish bike basket– so your preschooler can take a little bit of home where ever he may roam.

Palak Shah
{www.makeithandmade.com}