Starry Terrain Quilt

Horray, Horray, it’s a Moda Bake Shop Day!! Well everyday is a Moda Bake Shop day, but today it’s my day to show you the latest project that I have been working on, Starry Terrain. I needed a wedding present and the couple had requested a black, lime and magenta quilt. I checked to see what fabric lines Moda had and of course, they had something that would work…the fabric line Terrain along with the black swirl fabric…perfect. For interest, I ended up adding the orange too. I hope you like it.

Terrain is a fun fabric line with deep jewel toned colors. Kimberly over at the Fat Quarter Shop has fabric from the line at her shop. She has generously offered to sponsor a give away for $50 gift certificate to one of my lucky blog readers. After you check out the tutorial here, head on over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to learn more about it.

1 Terrain Layer Cake
6 yards Black Marble Swirls Jet9908 29
2 yards Orange
Terrain Lichen Bloom 27098 13
3 1/2 yards Magenta Terrain Fern Berry 27099 12
2 yards Lime/Teal Terrain Lichen Foliage 27098 14
6.5 yards Backing Terrain Forest Floor Foliage 27090 14-More fabric will be need if you don’t want to piece a scrappy backing.

Cutting Instructions:

Black-6 yards
Cut 32~ 2 1/2″ strips sub cut into 512~2 1/2″ squares
Cut 19~2 7/8″ strips sub cut into 256~ 2 7/8″ squares cut on diagonal
Cut 8~5 1/4″ strips sub cut into 64~5 1/4″ squares cut twice on diagonal

Lime-2 yards
Cut 19~2 7/8″ strips sub cut into 256~ 2 7/8″ squares cut on diagonal

Orange-2 yards
Cut 8~5 1/4″ strips sub cut into 64~5 1/4″ squares cut twice on diagonal
Cut 7~ 3 1/2″ strips. Set aside for a pieced back.

Magents-3 1/2 yards
Cut 16~5 1/4″ strips sub cut into 128~5 1/4″ squares cut twice on diagonal
Cut 9~2.5″ Strips for binding

Layer Cake
Remove the lime, orange and magenta squares from the remaining squares cut 64~ 4 1/2″ squares. There will be a few repeated fabrics and some leftover.

When you initially look at this quilt, it appears like the quilt features the green star block. That is not true! This is the actual block:

As the blocks come together, they create the secondary green star. Also note the center square of each of the stars features a different fabric.

Start by sewing the black and green triangles together to make half square triangle blocks. You will need 512 total. Press to the black.

Now take a black 2 1/2″ square and pair it with one of the half square triangles that were just created. Sew together as shown. Press to the black square. Now pair the pieces together and sew. Press seam to one side. Set these aside.

To create the hour glass portion of the block take a magenta triangle and lay it on a black triangle. Sew as shown. Press to the magenta. You will need 512 total.

Take a magenta triangle and lay it on an orange triangle. Sew as shown. Press to the magenta. You will need 512 total.

Lay the newly formed triangles on top of each other and sew making sure to match the center seams. Continue until you have 512 quarter square triangle blocks.

Begin assembling the blocks by sewing the pieces into strips as shown.

Sew those strips together to create the block. Complete 64 blocks.

Assemble the blocks into an 8 x 8 layout.

To piece the backing, take the leftovers from the layer cake and sew them into a 126″ long strip that is 10″ wide. Sew the 3.5″ orange strip pieces together. Sew them along the sides of the layer cake pieces. Cut the backing fabric into two 126″ pieces. Sew that to the sides of the orange fabric.

Press the backing and top. Layer backing, batting and top. Quilt as desired.

Bind with the magenta 2.5″ strips. ENJOY!!

96″ x 96″

As long as I quilt, it will always amaze me to see the designs created when blocks come together.

Don’t forget to come on over and check out the give away I am hosting for the $50 gift certificate to the Fat Quarter Shop.

Flying in Squares Quilt

Hello Moda Bake Shop fans!!!  I am so excited to be back today to share a “high flying” tutorial with you all 😉  I’m Melissa Corry and you can find me at my blog, Happy Quilting. What you might not know about me is that I have a fairly new sewing room that I painted purple!!   I love it, but I have nothing on the walls.  So when I saw Terrain by Kate Spain, I knew it was the perfect line to create my new sewing room decor.  And I am so happy to share it with all of you!!

And if you just love it and want to make your own “Flying in Squares” quilt, pop on over to Julie at The Intrepid Thread.  She has a fabulous “Flying in Squares” quilt kit with everything you need to get your own flock flying and at a great price to boot 🙂  Terrain is no longer available in her shop, but she has a great alternative.

To make this quilt you will need:

27 Squares from your Layer Cake – I used mostly the cool colored prints 🙂
1 1/2 Yards of Bella Solids White
2 Yards for Backing
1/2 Yard for Binding

One final note before we get started 🙂  If you have any questions about this tutorial, please email me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I will answer them ASAP.  When you are finished, I would love for you to add a picture of your “Flying in Squares” quilt to my Flickr Group.  I just get giddy seeing other’s versions of my tutorials and I love to do parades on my blog of everyone’s completions 🙂


Start with your 27 layer squares.  From each square cut (1) 6 1/4″ x 6 1/4″ square and (5) 3″ x 3″ squares.  You will have a little bit of scraps left.

Now let’s move on to your white yardage.  Iron your yardage first to remove any wrinkles.  Align your fabric on your mat and cut a straight edge.  Then cut 9 strips measuring 3 3/8″ x the WOF (Width of Fabric).  From each of the 9 strips cut 12 3 3/8″ x 3 3/8″ squares for a total of 108 squares.

Once again,  align your fabric on your mat and cut a straight edge.  Then cut 12 strips measuring 1 3/4″ x the WOF.  From 6 of the strips cut (12) 1 3/4″ x 13″ strips and (12) 1 3/4″ x 8″ strips.  From the remaining 6 strips cut (12) 1 3/4″ x 15 1/2″ strips and (12) 1 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ strips.


Now we are ready to start making some geese.  This is a great method of making Flying Geese that have no waste. You also aren’t sewing any triangles on along the bias which helps to keep everything nice and straight.   To save time be sure and repeat each of the sub-steps 27 times making your geese in an assembly line fashion rather than making 4 geese at a time.

With right sides together, lay two white squares onto your large print square as shown.  Using your ruler, draw a pen line diagonally from the top left corner to the bottom right corner.

Now go ahead and pin both sides of each square adjacent to that drawn line.  Make sure to put them out far enough that your presser foot won’t hit them as you sew on by 🙂  Now stitch a 1/4″ seam along both sides of the drawn line (the black lines represent your stitching lines 🙂  Remember, you are doing these assembly line so go ahead and chain stitch all 27 sets on the right hand side of the line, and then go back and do all 27 sets on the left hand side.

Go ahead and clip your threads and then align your ruler along the drawn centerline.  Cut your pieces apart along that drawn line.

Now you will want to press your seam up towards your white fabric.  Don’t these look like cute little hearts 🙂

Now, take 2 more white squares and align them on your two stitched pieces as follows with right sides together.  Once again, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the white squares from corner to corner.

Now pin each piece far enough out that your foot will go by and then once again, stitch a 1/4″ seam along both sides of the drawn diagonal line.  (Remember to chain stitch to save time 🙂

Clip your threads and then using your ruler aligned along the drawn line, once again, cut your 2 separate pieces apart.

Press toward the white again.  Lastly, trim off the little corners.

And you are done!!!  You should have a whole flock of geese (108) that are precisely perfect and ready to get flying!!


So now we are going to start sewing those geese together.  Start by laying out 2 geese as follows.  Lay the first geese onto the second and with rights sides together pin along the edge. Pin 48 sets.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge. ** Hint -If you try to make sure that you sew directly over where the triangle intersects (where the 2 grey lines cross on the picture), you will get much crisper points.  Once you have finished the first set, don’t clip your threads.  Just keep feeding all 48 sets through.  This is called chain stitching and it saves tons of time.  Now go ahead and clip your threads and press.  You now should have  48 sets of double geese and 12 single geese remaining.

Now we are going to use the same process to make rows of 4 geese.  Lay your first set of 2 geese onto your second with right sides together, make 12 sets like this.  Pin your edges of all 12 sets and chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges, once again, making sure to cross directly over the intersection point.  Press your seams. ( Just as clarification – you will have some leftover sets of 2 geese.)

Now, grab your 12 sets of 4 flying geese you just made and 12 leftover sets of 2 and lay them out as follows.  (Really pay attention to the directional orientation; I had to do some unpicking when I was only half focusing on what I was doing 🙂  Lay the 2 flying geese onto the 4 with right sides together.  Take care to match up the center seam of the 2 with the point of the 4th goose 🙂  Pin along the seam and the edges.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges, clip your threads, and press.  These will be your top and bottom rows and you can set these aside for a minute.

Now we need some four patches for the center of our blocks.  Start by grabbing a stack of those 3″ squares. Layout 6 sets of 4 as follows.  Now lay the sets of 2 with right sides together as follows.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along all 12 sets of 2, clip your threads and press.  Now you can take the sets of 2 and lay them with right sides together to make 6 sets.  Pin along the edge taking care to match the center seam.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge, clip your threads and press.

Now take the 6 four patches your just made and the remaining 12 sets of 2 geese and lay them out as follows making 6 sets. (Once again, really focus on the directional orientation.)  Lay the right hand set of geese onto the 4 patch with right sides together.  Take care to match the center seams.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along all 6 sets.  Clip your threads and press.  Now repeat the same process with the left hand set of geese.  You will now have 6 sets of center rows.

Now your block rows are complete and you are ready to sew your blocks together.  Lay 6 blocks out as follows.  I like to layout all 6 at first so I can play with the orientation of colors and get everything the way I like it before I sew.

Lay the top row onto the center row of each of the 6 sets.  Pin, taking care to match up all of the seams.  Chain Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and then clip your threads and press.  Repeat the same process for the bottom row.

And you now have 6 beautiful Flying Blocks!!


Remember those remaining 12 geese? Now is the time to use them. Take 2 geese blocks and lay them out as follows.  Lay the first geese block onto the second with right sides together and pin along the edge.  Repeat this to make 6 sets.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge, being sure to cross over the intersecting seams.  Clip your threads and press.

Now take those 6 centers you just made and you are going to add some sashing.  Start with the 5 1/2″ strips and lay them with right sides together along the sides of your center.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the left hand side of the 6 centers.  Clip your threads.  Now chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the right hand side of the 6 centers.  Clip your threads and press both sets of seams on the 6 centers.  Then repeat the same process but on the top and bottom using the 8″ sashings.  Go ahead and set the 6 sashed centers aside.

Now grab your pile of 3″ print squares.  You will be making 12 rows of 3.  Start by taking 2 squares and with right sides together sew a 1/4″ seam along any edge. (you won’t need pins)  Repeat this 12 times chain stitching to save time.  Clip your threads between the 12 sets.  Open your sets of 2.  Now lay another 3″ square with right sides together along the edge and chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along all 12 sets to make 12 rows of 3.  Clip your threads and press.

Now you will be doing the same process as above by making 12 rows of 5.  Once again, start by making 12 sets of 2 squares and with right sides together and chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along any edge. Clip your threads.  Now add a third square to each of the 12 sets, followed by a fourth square and then a fifth square.  Clip your threads and press.

Now get your sashed centers again and your rows of 3 and 5 squares.  This process is the same as sashing before we are just using pieced sashes instead.  Lay out 6 blocks as follows.  (Once again, I like to lay them all out so I can determine orientation of color 🙂

Place the pieced rows of 3 onto the sides of the centers of all 6 sets and pin the edges.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges of the right hand sides and then clip your threads and repeat chain stitching a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges of the left hand side.  Clip your threads and press.

Now just repeat the same process for the top and bottom.  Take care when pinning to make sure to align the seams of the center block and the pieced rows.  Chain stitch your 1/4″ seams, clip your threads and press.

And now your blocks are ready for the final sashings.  Repeat the same process.  You got this!!  Attach your 13″ sashings to the sides of your block and your 15 1/2″ sashings to the top and bottom of your block.

And now you are done with your 6 Square blocks!!  Excellent!!!


Now it is on to the super fun part and it goes really quick!!   Lay out your blocks as follows.  Notice, I changed the orientation of some of my square blocks.  You don’t have to, I just like the way it looks.  I find it helps to take a picture of my layout so I can refer back to it 🙂

And now we can make some rows.  Start by laying the first block in each row onto the second block with right sides together.  Pin along the edge.  You won’t have to worry about matching seams because of the sashing 🙂  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges of the 4 sets.  Now just lay the third block in each row onto the now pieced together first and second block with right sides together.  Once again pin along the edge and then sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of each set.  Clip your threads and press. Now you have 4 rows!!!

Lay the first row onto the second row with right sides together and then lay the third row onto the fourth row with right sides together.  Pin along the edge taking care to match up the seams where the blocks meet.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of each set.  Clip your threads and press.

Now just one more seam to sew!!  Lay your now sewn together row 1 and 2 onto your row 3 and 4.  Pin along the edge once again taking care to match up your seams.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge, clip your threads and press.

And there you have it!!!  Your Flying in Squares quilt top is finished!!!


Take your 2 yards of backing and cut it into a 1 3/4″ yard x WOF piece and then 2 4 1/2″ x 32″ pieces.  Sew them together as the layout below.

Make your quilt sandwich up.  Taping the backing down to a hard surface will really help to keep out bunching in the back of your quilt.    Baste your quilt sandwich.  (The more pins the better 🙂

Now go ahead and quilt.  I love this part; it is one of my favorite things to do!!  I did a new swirl pattern with some sharp points and echoing.  It was a ton of fun.  If you are new to free motion quilting just google it.  You will find lots of videos and tutorials to help you along your way 🙂

Lastly, make your binding strip from your 1/2 yard of fabric and attach it to your quilt.  I machine attach my bindings but you are welcome to do it by hand if you prefer.  There is a great tutorial here if you are not familiar with binding 🙂

I like to throw my quilt in the wash real quick when I am done so that it gets that nice soft look.  Now just sit back and enjoy!!

One super fun “Flying in Squares” quilt measuring 44″ x 60″

Melissa Corry

Diamond Lattice and MORE!

Hello fellow quilters! It’s Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville! When I first saw this line of fabric, I fell in love!! Isn’t Terrain such a lovely mix of beautiful patterns and jewel tones?? I am pleased to give you not just one but TWO quilt! 
3 Layer Cakes – Terrain by Kate Spain
1 Jelly Roll – Basic White
4 1/2 yards – Any fabric from line – backing for quilt #1
3 1/2 yards – Any fabric from line – backing for quilt #2
*Binding will come from the Jelly Roll

When choosing your layout for this quilt, the key is to use a random pattern of the color placement and not to have the same prints or hues touching. It’s a little tricky but can be done.

1. Find 56 “layer pieces” that will be then become our “Main Blocks”.
2. Cut these down to be 9 3/4″ square.
3. Next you can now find 42 “layer pieces” that you will then cut into 4- 5″ squares making them your
“Secondary Blocks”.
4. Find now 26 “layer pieces” and cut hem into 2 -5″ squares. These will be your “Border blocks” now.
5. Lastly you will need 4 separate 5″ squares to be your “Corner Blocks”. These squares can be leftovers from your “Border Blocks”- just make sure that your corner blocks are a different pattern and color than the neighboring “Border Blocks”.

***The hardest part of this quilt is keeping everything organized and labeled. I have found that a little piece of masking tap works best. I labeled my blocks by rows and then by the number block of that row, IE. A1, A2 and so forth and B1 and B2. Get the idea? If you do label your rows and blocks it will make everything run a lot smoother and faster for you. ***

With that said – layout your “Main Blocks” in a 7×8 layout.

Now with your “Secondary Blocks,” lay them on top of your “Main Blocks”. After you have your “Secondary Blocks” all out, add your “Border Blocks” and your “Corner Blocks”. This may take a little time to figure out and to create the best random design.

This is what your blocks should look like – 1 layer piece topped with 4 – 5″ squares.

Now with each block (56), turn over the 5″ squares. You will draw a diagonal line across the squares – it doesn’t matter which way- just when you sew, make sure they are lined up like in the picture above. Take off 2 diagonal corner blocks (make sure to remember and keep separate which squares go where
c). Pin the other two down.

Sew down the line of each block. Cut 1/4″ away from seam on both squares (make sure to save your extra triangle scraps. you will see why later!) Press the seams going to the outside of the block.

Add the other 2 blocks (removed earlier) and repeat the same process.

With all 56 squares done- layout all the squares again. This will help make sure you kept everything organized and matched up.

With your Jelly Roll, cut 56 – 16 1/2″ strips. With all your squares laid out – lay 1 strip on each block, creating a diamond pattern. (See picture above)

Now pile up your blocks up. With each block labeled, you can now separate the blocks into 2 piles- with them separated in the same direction.

Cut each block (56) in the correct direction – the same direction as the jelly roll strip. Pin the strip to one of the pieces – sew and then press seam towards the block. (1/4″ seam allowance). Add the other half of the block – making sure to line up the edges and then repeat.

Now you are more than welcome to skip this next step – but for me I found that laying out the blocks once again, checking to make sure everything lines up correctly. Now sew each block together in the row- then sew together the rows. We now have a finished quilt top!

If you are like me – I do not sew perfectly (even with all the quilts I have made). I still get puckers after trying to get my seams to line up. A trick I found is to spray some starch (not much is needed) and iron it out. This will make it smoother for when it comes time to quilting it.

Second quilt:

Now its time to make use of all of your scraps! I separated all of my pieces into their different hues and then sewed 2 pieces together. Then press open and trim to 4 1/2″ squared.

Here are 3 examples of how you can arrange your newly formed squares. Once you have decided which design you want, sew all of your blocks together.

Baste and quilt as desired. Use your Jelly Roll leftovers as your binding. There should be enough for both of your quilts. If you are a little short, use your remaining layer cake pieces.

Diamond Lattice Quilt, approximately 70″ x 80″. It’s a very beautiful and bright quilt! Would make a beautiful quilt to put over the couch to bring some color to the room, or to use as a nice full sized bedspread.

Diamond Extras, approximately 53″ x 46″. This beautiful bright quilt mimics the Diamond Lattice quilt. I can’t decide which quilt I like best!

I hope you enjoy these quilts as much as I do! Please send me an email ( with pictures of your beautiful creations!

Crystal Hendrix

Cross-Terrain Quilt

Hi there! I’m Lee from Freshly Pieced, and I’m so excited to be showing you my first Moda Bake Shop project, using one of my current favorite fabric lines, Terrain by Kate Spain.

1 jelly roll of Terrain by Kate Spain
2 yards of a contrasting solid for background
3/4 yard for binding
3 1/2 yards for back

Select 36 strips from the jelly roll. From each jelly roll strip, cut the following:

4 – 2.5″ squares
4 – 1.5″ squares
4 – 2.5″ x 5.5″ rectangles

Cut your solid background fabric into 2.5″ strips. Cut on the lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvage) so that you get longer strips (this will come in handy when you make the borders). Now sub-cut the following:

144 – 2.5″ squares
144 – 2.5″ x 3.5″ rectangles

On the back of your solid 2.5″ squares and print 1.5″ squares, use a pencil to draw a diagonal line from corner to corner.

Match up each of your solid squares with a 2.5″ x 5.5″ rectangle, as shown above, with right sides facing (so the marked diagonal line is facing out). Make sure that the diagonal line is slanting in one direction for half of the squares, and in the other direction for the other half, as shown above. I found it helpful to layout all four rectangles from each print/strip, as I did above, to ensure I was doing half in each direction.

Sew directly onto the marked diagonal line, and trim, as shown.

Press open.

Now match up each 1.5″ print square with a solid 2.5″ x 3.5″ rectangle. Again, right sides should be facing, with the marked diagonal facing out. Again, make sure that the marked diagonal slants in one direction for half of the squares, the other direction for the other half, lining up the squares so that the diagonal slants across an outer corner.

Sew on the marked line, trim, and press open.

Now match up a print 2.5″ square with each of your shorter pieced units, as shown. Sew together, with the 2.5″ square always on the end with the pieced corner.

Match up each of those units with one of the 5.5″ rectangle units you pieced earlier, matching the prints so that each unit contains only one print. The bias (angled) seams should always run parallel to each other, as shown above. You should now have a 5.5″ x 4.5″ unit that will make up one quarter of a completed oval.

Arrange your quarter-oval units into 12 rows of 12, mixing up the colors/prints so that they are randomly placed throughout. Sew the units together, first into groups of four to make completed oval blocks. Then sew those blocks together. I arranged mine so that there are half-ovals around all the edges, but you could also arrange it so that all of the ovals are complete and unbroken.

To Make the Borders:
For the inner solid border, use your remaining solid 2.5″ strips. Cut two strips 60.5″ long and two strips 52.5″ long. Sew the strips to the edges of quilt, starting with the long sides.

For the outer pieced border, cut 1.5″ x 2.5″ strips from your remaining jelly roll scraps and strips. You will need (116) 1.5″ x 2.5″ pieces to complete the border.

Join the 1.5″ x 2.5″ pieces short-end to short-end to create two strips 64.5″ long and two strips 54.5″ long (these strips may need to be trimmed down to size just a bit). Join these to the quilt as the final, pieced border.

Finish your quilt by quilting and binding as desired.

One fun, colorful quilt measuring about 52″ by 63″—enjoy!

Lee Heinrich
{Freshly Pieced}

Little Church Purse

Designed by Other free patterns at

6 layer cake (10″) squares–my sample was made from “Terrain.”
(2) 10″ squares of cotton batting
3/4-yard of 1-1 1/2″ ribbon
(2) 3/4″-wide pieces of hook and loop tape {cut 1″ in length}

buttons, yoyos, other embellishments or trims

All seams are ¼”. Press between each step. RSO=right side out. Use strong thread. (Test it by seeing if it breaks easily.)

For the center of the front and back of the purse, cut (2) 7 ¼” squares. For a fun touch {if possible}, fussy-cut the squares with a motif in the center, such as a flower.

For the triangles that frame the center square cut (4) 5 5/8” squares in half diagonally, yielding 8 triangles total. Sew 2 matching triangles to opposite sides of a center square.  Sew 2 matching triangles to the remaining sides. Or, if you prefer, use 4 different triangles around the center.

Cut (2) 10” squares of cotton batting. The 2 remaining layer cake squares will serve as the purse lining. Lay the batting on your sewing table. Place a lining square on top of it right side up. On top of that, place a pieced block right side down. Pin the stack so the edges are even. If the pieced block is slightly smaller than the batting and lining squares, trim them to match.
Beginning near the center of the lower edge, sew around the block through all layers. Leave a 5” opening for turning it right side out. Backstitch as you begin and end so that the stitching will hold when you’re turning the block.
Trim the corners almost to the seam line and turn the piece RSO. Press it, folding the opening to the inside ¼”. You don’t need to sew the opening closed yet. You’ve created one side of the purse. Now, repeat the above steps to create the other side. 

Sew a little square of hook and loop tape at the top center of the lining side of each.

Once the 2 pieces are complete, match the edges and pin them together RSO, with the gaps that you pressed under on the bottom edge. Topstitch a SCANT ¼” from the sides and lower edge of the purse through all layers. Backstitch as you begin and end. The lower edge gap should be caught (and closed) in this stitching.
Cut a piece of ribbon to measure 24” in length. Fold under ¼” at each end and topstitch. Place one end of the ribbon at a top corner of the purse, 1” down from the top, RSO, with the ribbon folded around the purse seam allowances. Sew through all layers from the lower edge of the ribbon to the top of the purse, and then sew it again or backstitch to make it secure. Repeat for the other corner of the purse with the other end of the ribbon, and your Little Church Purse is finished. (But who could resist adding an embellishment here or there?!)

Kara Schorstein

Layer Cake Wallet

Hello, I am super excited to be featured today! This is my first Moda Bake Shop design, and I hope you like it. I am Stacey from Maine, and I blog over at Stacey’s Place. I sure hope you stop by my blog today to get to know me a little better, and for a special treat (did someone mention giveaway?!?).

5 Layer Cake Pieces, cut as follows:

2 exterior pieces 4 ½” x 8 ¼”
2 interior pieces 4 ½” x 8 ¼”
1 fusible fleece 3 ½” x 7 ¾”
4 décor bond interfacing 4 ½” x 8 ¼”
1 strap (exterior fabric) 6 ½” x 4 ½”
1 fusible fleece (for strap) 6 ½” x 1 ½”
Snap (or velcro)
for card slots:
2 interior pieces 5” x 4 ½”
2 exterior pieces 6” x 4 ½”
2 interior pieces 7” x 4 ½”

  1. On the wrong side of 1 exterior piece, fuse the 3 ½” x 7 ¾” fusible fleece in the center. Then fuse an interfacing piece to the wrong side over the fleece. On the remaining exterior piece and the two interior pieces, fuse interfacing to the wrong side.
  2. Place the two exterior pieces right sides together, leaving a 3” opening on one of the short sides. Sew a ¼” seam. Clip the 4 corners, being careful not to cut your stitching. Turn right side out and press.

  3. Take your 6 pieces for your card slots, fold in half wrong sides together and press. Edge-stitch on the top edge where the fold is. Then stitch a 3/8” seam from the folded edge. Your folded measurements are small 2 ½” x 4 ½”, medium 3” x 4 ½”, and large 3 ½” x 4 ½”.

  4. With your interior piece and one small, medium, and large card slot piece, place a large piece on top of the interior piece. Match raw edges. Place a medium piece on top of the large one. Place a small one on top of the medium. Sew a ¼” seam to attach the slots to the interior piece. Repeat on the other side.

  5. Place two interior pieces right sides together, leaving a 3” opening on the long bottom side. Sew a ¼” seam. Clip the 4 corners, being careful not to cut your stitching. Turn right side out and press.

  6. Edge-stitch along both the exterior and interior pieces, starting and ending ¼” on the sides.

  7. With your strap piece, fuse fusible fleece to the wrong side about 1” in from the edge. Fold your 1” piece wrong side onto the fleece. Fold the other piece in half, and fold again and match to the other side. Edge-stitch down the side, making sure you fold the end under. Edge-stitch and then edge-stitch down the other side.

  8. Place your exterior piece and your interior piece on top of each other. Make sure the side you are using for the outside of your wallet is on the bottom. Make sure your interior piece is laying with the card slots facing up. In between these two pieces is going to be your money slot.

  9. This is where I mock fold, to see where the strap goes, and where to place my snaps. On the exterior piece, fasten on the outside (through your side opening) where you want your bottom snap to be located. Follow manufacturer’s directions for snaps.

  10. Place the snap where you want the top portion of your snap on the strap and fasten according to manufacturer’s directions. Attach the bottom portion of your snap and fasten according to manufacturer’s directions.

  11. Now fold your wallet in half and snap together. Adjust your strap to where it looks right. Pin in place.

  12. Make sure your exterior and interior pieces are lined up. Starting at the top of your side piece, edge-stitch down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side. **make sure you backtack each side** And remember not to edge-stitch the top. You already did this in a previous step.

  13. All done, now you have a super cute wallet, from a easy and fast pattern, Enjoy!!

1 super cute wallet!

Stacey Carey
{Stacey’s Place}