A Simple Old-Fashioned Christmas Tree Skirt

Hello!  I’m liZ from over at Simple Simon and Company and I’m super excited to be here at the Moda Bake Shop today sharing a Christmas Tree Skirt pattern. 

When it comes to Christmas I’m always looking to the past…I love anything traditional, vintage, and old fashioned.  So when I saw the Historical Blenders line by Howard Marcus I knew I would have to use it for a Christmas project and a Christmas Tree Skirt seemed to fit the bill. 

Here’s what I did:

One Fat Quarter Bundle (I used Historical Blenders by Howard Marcus)

The first thing that you will need to do make this Christmas Tree Skirt is to print out the pattern pieces. You can download them here:  An Old Fashioned Christmas Tree Skirt Pattern.

Once you have them cut out and ready to go it’s time to…..

 You will need to cut out 8 of each piece. 
(I used a different, dark fabric piece for each of the large bottom triangles and then I choose 8 different light (or golden) fabric pieces to use for the long skinny triangle pieces.)

Next you will sew piece #2 to piece #3.  (Numbers are marked on each pattern piece.)
You will do this with right sides together and make sure to sew from the top down to the bottom.  (Starting at the small point of the large triangle and sewing down the entire side.)


 I do this by laying my ruler flush with the edge of my large triangle and cutting off small excess that you will have at the top.


 Now it’s time to sew piece #1 to pieces #2 and #3 that you just stitched together.
To do this again start at the top (with your light or golden pieces) and sewing with right sides together sew down the entire side of the triangle.  (Like in the photograph below.)

After they are sewn together you will have a little piece at the top that needs to be trimmed so….

Now repeat that process with the other 7 sets of pattern pieces.
Once you are done you are ready to…

Do this with rights sides together. 
When you have all 8 pieces sewn together stop!  Do not close the circle!  (Meaning do not sew piece 1 to piece 8 and you go around the Christmas Tree Skirt.)  You will need an opening to wrap your skirt around the base of your tree.

All you have let to do now is to back and bind your skirt in which ever method you prefer.
(For mine I made my own binding from 2 of the red colored fat quarters and for the backing I pieced together 6 of the remaining fat quarters.  It was easy!)

And you’re done!

One simple, old fashioned Christmas Tree Skirt.

{Simple Simon and Company}

Apple Cinnamon Quilt

Hello this is Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville to present you another tutorial. Here is a fun queen size quilt that would look good in any color combinations! I hope you enjoy! This version is perfectly lovely for Christmas in July.

3 Layer Cakes – Double Chocolate by 3 Sisters
1 yard Red 3840 32 (Border)
1 1/2 yards Brown 3835 41 (Border
9 3/8 yards Blue 4092 13 (Backing and Border)
  *Approximately 1 1/2 yards is used for the Border
1 1/4 yards Cream 3840 34 (Binding)

Warning: Everyone knows that when you get pregnant your brain does funny things…thus I have a pregnant brain and if something does not make sense please let me know and I will try my best to explain and help you all that I can!

This quilt is made up of a set of 56 blocks that is then surrounded by 4 different borders. At any time you can subtract a row or column of blocks or even a layer or two, but know that it will not then coordinate with the instructions below.

While sewing make sure that you use a 1/4″ seam line through out the whole quilt. 

Here is the cutting instructions for all 56 blocks:

# per block # total
Red: 4 – 2″x2″ 224
Cream: 4 – 2″x6″ 224
Brown: 1 – 4 3/8″x4 3/8″ 56
Blue: 2 – 3 7/8″x3 7/8″ 112- squares
*cut each into a diagonal 224- diagonals

Cutting Instructions for Borders: (lengths of borders will be given below)

Border #1 
With blue fabric cut 7 strips of 4.5″xWOF. 
Border #2
With your layer cake pieces you will need to cut it into 4 pieces to create a charm piece (5×5″). You will need 68 charm pieces or 17 layer cake pieces. You can choose a random pattern or you can cut according to make a color coordinated pattern. You will use two sets of 15 (top and bottom) and two sets of 19 (left and right sides).
Border #3
With the red fabric cut 9 strips of 3.25″ x WOF.

Border #4
With brown fabric cut 10 strips of 5″ x WOF.

Now lets begin assembling our blocks. You will need to make a total of 56 blocks.

I like to lay out my blocks so I know what they are going to look like, so #1 lay how your block. This will help you get the desired look of your block and will allow you to make any color patterns that you would like (I did not use any pattern but did a random pattern).

#2 Pin two of your blue triangles to each side of your block. (Tip: fold your block into 4 so you can find your center mark – this allows you to line up your points easier). #3 Sew each triangle on to the sides and then press seam.

#4 Grab your other two diagonal blue pieces and #5 pin them to your block and then #6 sew them on and then press seam.

I like at this point to trim up my newly made squares, so that the next steps go easier. #7 trim your squares to measure 6 x 6″ (Tip: when trimming make sure that you measure a 1/4″ from the point of the brown square, this will allow your points to be lined up perfecting when adding the border pieces of the block). #8 Lay your block out now and then #9 sew the top, middle and bottom pieces together and press seams. I lay them back out afterwards to make sure that I did it right (believe it or not, I do mess up in this area more often than you would think).

#10 Now pin your pieces together (I like to do it at the seam lines, this allows it so that my seams all line up and match), sew and press. #11 Now trim your blocks to a 9 x 9″ block. (Please forgive this picture, when editing I though it was a picture of the finished block I was using – so imagine that this block has the border pieces on). #12 Finish making the other 55 blocks.

Now it’s time to assemble the quilt! When assembling my quilt top I did a random order, I just grab a block and added it. If you are doing a random order, this eliminates laying it all out and then labeling rows, but do whatever you desire. #13 Sew and press your 56 blocks into a 7×8 block pattern. So this is 7 rows of 8 blocks or 8 rows of 7 blocks. I sewed all the rows together and then added all the rows together. Make sure you press all your seams as you go.

#14 Now with our first border we will now sew together our 7 strips of blue to make 2 sets of 4.5 x 60″ and 2 sets if 4.5 x 76.5″. Now the shorter sets are sewn to the top and the longer sets are sewn to the sides. Press all seams.

For the second border we are using layer cake pieces that we cut into charm pieces. I did try to do a color pattern and it does line up properly but if you are going to do a random order feel free to do so. #15 Sew two sets of 15 charm pieces. The colors shown above is the color pattern I used. Just make sure that you keep your bottom and top separate as it will make a difference.

#16 Sew together 2 sets of 19 charm pieces. Once again these are the color patterns I used and again make sure you keep your left and right sides separate and labeled if you are using a color pattern.

You don’t have to use my color pattern but can create your own.

#17 Making sure that you have your sides separated, add the top and bottom first then your sides. I like to pin my charm sets the quilt top so I can line up my seams as well and make sure that I line up the border correctly.

#18 with your third border take your strips and make 2 sets of 3.25 x 77″ and 2 sets of 3.25 x 91.5″. Sew the shorter pieces to the top and the longer pieces to the sides of your quilt top. Make sure you press your seams.

Once again you can see that my editing skills are lacking. So we will continue on with #18 – but make it part b! With your fourth and final border make 2 sets of 5 x 82.5″ and 2 sets of 5 x 100.5″. Once again sew the shorter sets to the top and bottom and the longer pieces to the sides. Press your seams.

#19 Your quilt top is now finished! Baste, quilt and bind as desired!

When you are finished you will end up with a queen size quilt approximately 91″ x 100″. I consider this to be my modern take on this type of block quilt. Some may say otherwise but to me, it is more modern.

This will look amazing on the back of your couch that you can grab when you want to snuggle while watching a good movie or read a good book. It will also look amazing on your bed!

If you have any questions please let me know! I am fully aware that I am not perfect and appreciate any pointers that I made a “goof”. Enjoy!

Crystal Hendrix

Charming Christmas Ornaments

Happy Christmas in July to everyone! It’s LeAnne from Everyday Celebrations with a fun and Christmassy project for you all. I have to say it was a little fun doing a Christmas project in June because I already have some of my handmade gifts crossed off my list! However, something not fun was the fact that the weekend I worked on these, it was 120 F degrees outside. (I live in Arizona.) As far from Christmassy weather as you can get. This project is simple, fun, and something you can do with your entire family. There are lots of options to make this project reflect you and your family’s Christmas decor and traditions.

{for all ornaments}
1 mini-charm pack  and/or
1 to 2 charm packs (depending on how many and whether you want identical ornaments)
1 fat quarter for initials (depending on how many you are making the solid charm squares may be sufficient)
scraps of cotton batting
baker’s twine or other desired string for hanging
1 to 2 skeins white embroidery floss
1 yard fusible webbing (I prefer Heat n’ Bond Ultrahold)
embroidery needle
doll needle or other needle with large eye for adding hanging loops

{handprint ornament supplies}
solid squares from charm pack or 1 fat quarter for initials
fabric or acrylic paint
foam brush
black embroidery floss (to embroider the year)

Note: The printable PDF includes the text for all the ornaments and hexi templates. When you print these pages, just print them flipped or mirror so the letters are backwards for fusible web.  If you don’t know how to do this, just print normally and tape the paper to a sunny window with the back facing you. Then trace onto fusible web. Or you can always print off your own letter!

Below are instructions for all the ornaments. All ornaments are finished the same way so those steps are at the very end.

{Handprint Ornament} 

I love making handprint memorabilia with my girls. These ornaments are rather large, but they still look wonderful on the tree. (They are the full 5″ with the corners trimmed.) Every year I have my girls make an ornament for their Grandmas. So this is their Grandma ornament for this year! 

1. First, select two 5″ charm squares for each ornament. Next, you will want to put a handprint on the charms you picked for the ornament backs. (I found using less busy prints helped the handprint standout more.) Tape the charms to a piece of cardboard at each corner. (After doing this I found it helpful to tape at each corner instead of just the top. The fabric can move quite a bit.) Paint your child’s hand generously with fabric or acrylic paint. Help them place their hand in the middle of the square and press their hand firmly down to get a nice print. Allow to dry.

2. I cut the corners of my squares after adding the handprint to give more of an ‘ornament’ shape. To make a template, simply take the cardboard that comes with the charm pack and cut each corner at a 45 degree angle. (I used the 45 degree mark on my cutting mat to make it consistent. Cut ornament fronts, backs, and batting using the template. Trim batting so it’s slightly smaller than the fabric.

3. If desired, embroider the year on the back with the handprint using a backstitch.

4.  To make initials trace the appropriate letter on to fusible webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. (A set of letters is included in the printable PDF.) I used my Cricut to cut my letters. If you have one, or another digital craft cutter, check out my tutorial for cutting fabric with the Cricut.

To finish the ornament, see the finishing section.

 {Hexagon Ornaments}

I love hexis! These are fun and much smaller than the handprint ornaments. (Perfect if you have kids whose hands are too big for the charms.) I made a set of mini hexi ornaments for my family with our initials. I also made a large hexi ornament that says JOY.

 1. First, select two squares for each ornament. Cut front, back, and batting using the hexagon template. (Included in the printable PDF.  I included both a large and small hexi template.) Trim batting so it’s slightly smaller than the fabric.

2. To add text or initials, trace the appropriate letter(s) on to fuisble webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. (I included a small set of letters in the printable PDF and the JOY letters.)

To finish the ornament, see the finishing section.

{Square Ornaments}

For these ornments I used the mini-charms. Select two for each ornament.

1. Select ornament front and back.  Cut a piece of batting slightly smaller than the squares.

2. Trace letters onto fusible webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. 

3. To make the JOY ornament, string together the three squares after finishing.


You can either finish the ornaments by hand with a blanket stitch or by machine. 
Blanket Stitch

1.  Place the back wrong side up with the batting on top. Thread a needle with embroidery floss and knot the end. Pass needle through the batting. Place ornament top on the batting and use a blanket stitch around the ornament. (I am not an embroidery pro by any stretch so here is my favorite tutorial on the blanket stitch. So helpful!)
1. Layer the ornament back, batting, and ornament top together. Pin in the middle. Machine stitch with a generous 1/4″ seam around the ornament. Backstitch at the end. 
Hanging Loop
1. Thread a needle with baker’s twine, or other string, and thread through the top of the ornaments. Cut to desired length and tie off. (Since baker’s twine is thicker, I used a doll needle with a large eye to add the hanging loop.)

Lots of fun and festive Christmas ornaments! 

LeAnne Ballard

Moda Bake Shop Basics: Perfect Pressing

Oda May here for another installment of Moda Bake Shops Basics. Today we welcome Liz from Simple Simon and Co. with tips for perfect pressing.
I used to think that “pressing” and “ironing” were the same thing until one fateful night…
I was at my pattern drafting class which was taught by a wonderfully eccentric retired wedding dress designer.  The instructor was helping me with a dress and sent me over to “press” a seam.
I walked over to the ironing board and began my version of “pressing”.  Within seconds I was being very LOUDLY reprimanded and then spent the next 2 hours learning (and practicing) the differences between “pressing” and “ironing”. 
At the time I wasn’t thrilled with the lesson and would have rather worked on the dress but now I am so happy to have had her intervene and insist that I learn how to properly press.  That lesson has made all the difference in my sewing.
Here’s what I learned (and still use) concerning pressing:
#1.  Pressing and ironing are not the same thing! 
Pressing involves lifting and lowering your iron onto the desired area while ironing involves pushing your iron across the desired area.  (When you press it’s: lift, lower, press, lift, lower, press.  When you iron its just a back and forth sliding motion.)  With pressing it’s the combination of the heat, pressure, and steam that allows you to mold and shape your fabric.   
#2.  When pressing, always press on the wrong side of your fabric.
Pressing on the wrong side of the fabric allows you to properly see all the seams and therefore to press them as crisply and correctly as possible.
#3.  Before pressing your seams open always press them flat first.
If you press your seams flat before pressing them open you will be able to “set” the stitches into the fabric.  It makes for a crisper fold and will help to eliminate puckers.
#4.  Never press over the top of tape or pins.
Pins will leave imprints and scratch your iron while tape will melt and leave goo all over your iron and fabric.
#5.  Take care of that seam allowance.
You can slide an envelope or piece of cardstock between your seam allowance and top fabric to avoid having your seam allowance press through and mark the front of your fabric.

(See the difference?)
#6.  Use the correct setting on your iron.
Choose the correct setting for your fabric.  If your iron is too cool your pressing won’t be as sharp as it could be.  If your iron is too hot your iron can stick to the fabric or cause it to melt, pucker, and even smoke!  ( I know all of this from sad, sad, experience…especially with synthetic fabrics….)  If you are unsure which setting to use test it first on a scrap of the fabric that you are planning to use and see how it reacts to your iron.
#7.  Iron all fabric before beginning any project.
Before cutting any fabric for your next project iron it first.  (Yes, I said iron and not press.  In this case ironing is perfectly acceptable.)  Ironing will help to ensure accurate cutting.  Even if it may seem unnecessary, time consuming, or just a plain old pain I promise it will be worth it in the end and will always help to give your project (whatever that may be) a more professional look.
Pressing should indeed work hand in hand along with you and your sewing machine through any project…whether it be in constructing a garment or creating a quilt top.  Proper pressing techniques can make the difference between a good finished product and a great one. 
Now, depending on your project there are further pressing tips, tricks, and techniques that can be discussed.  But in general the 7 tips I shared today are always good to follow as a rule of thumb.
Thank you Moda for having us over today to share a few things that we’ve learned along the way through our adventures in sewing!
Thanks, Liz! Be sure and check out more Simple Simon and Co. tutorials on the Moda Bake Shop.

Road Fifteen Sixteen Patch Quilt

My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting and I am so excited to share this quilt with you.  Road 15 is such an inspiring collection and this was such a fun and quick quilt to put together.  I hope you enjoy the tutorial!

2 Road 15 jelly rolls
2/3 yard Road 15 print for binding
2.5 yards Moda Bella in Gray
5 yards Road 15 print for the backing fabric

1.  Take 72 strips from your jelly rolls and put them into pairs.  You want each pair to have one lighter strip and one darker strip so that there is good contrast between them.
2.  Cut each jelly roll strip in half at the fold. 
3.  Take one half from each jelly roll strip and piece them together along the long edge.  I didn’t pin my strips, but it is important to try piece these as accurately as possible.

 4.  Piece the pairs together along the long sides so that thee colors alternate; here I have blue – black – blue- black.  This should create one piece that is 8.5″ by roughly 22″.  There is a little leeway in the second measurement so if yours is a little shorter that is okay.

5.  Trim one edge. Line up your ruler with the lines on your fabric to make sure that you are cutting perpendicular to the pieces that you have just sewn.

6.  Start cutting 2.5″ strips from the trimmed edge.  This is where you will be glad that you pieced accurately in the previous steps.  If you didn’t sew them perfectly straight, you might need to occasionally re-square the edge of the fabric.  I know that I did.

7.  You should now have 8 pieces that are 2.5″x8.5″.

8.  Flip over every other strip.

9.  Sew them into pairs.

10.  And then pairs again so that you create 2 blocks that are 8.5″ square.

11,  Cut your sashing fabric into 12 strips that are 2.5″xWOF.
12.  Subcut these strips into pieces that are 2.5″x8.5″.  You should be able to get five 8.5″ pieces from each WOF strip.
13.  Sew a one 8.5″x2.5″ strip between each set of blocks and continue joining the blocks until you have diagonal columns.  There should be a single block in the top left corner, then 3 blocks, 5 blocks, 7 blocks, 9 blocks, 11 blocks, 11 blocks, 9 blocks, 7 blocks, 5 blocks, 3 blocks, until you get back to just 1 block in the bottom right corner.

14.  Cut twenty-three 2.5″xWOF pieces for the sashing that is going the opposite diagonal direction.  Cut off the selvage if you haven’t already and sew these strips together along the short side so that you have strips measuring:

  • 2 strips 20″ long
  • 2 strips 35″ long
  • 2 strips 55″ long
  • 2 strips 75″ long
  • 2 strips 95″ long
  • 1 strip 115″ long

15.  Since we are going to trim the blocks along the outer edge, these strips don’t need to reach from edge to edge on the quilt.  Just try your best to center them over each diagonal row and piece together.  The measurements give you more than 5″ extra so you have a little wiggle room.
16.  Once you have added the sashing, piece together the diagonal rows.
17.  Trim the edges to make the quilt square.
18.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

An almost-twin sized quilt that is about 72″x85″. 

I think he likes it, what do you think? 

Erica Jackman

Boho Patchwork Vintage Star Quilt

Thanks for checking out my latest Moda Bake Shop recipe!  I’m Sarah, from Sweet Dreams by Sarah, and you can visit my blog to read a little more about my inspiration for this quilt, and to get a sneak peek of other projects that I’m working on.  I mostly make baby quilts, because frankly, I like immediate gratification.  Even though this is a lap-sized quilt, it comes together so quickly, it will be done before you know it!

I love the modern feel of a traditional block that’s blown up, so today we’re making a giant vintage star, using patchwork to give it a fun, scrappy feel.  Let’s get started!

1 Boho Layer Cake
3 Yards Bella Porcelain
4 Yards of any coordinating yardage for backing – I used No. 31091-18 in Rain and No. 31095-14 in Whisper (you will also have some leftover Layer Cake pieces that you can use to make the backing more scrappy)
5/8 Yard Binding – I used No. 31094-14 in Rain
Cotton batting, measuring at least 70″ by 70″

First, we need to sort the Layer Cake.  The great thing about this project is that you can really use any Layer Cake that has definite color ways, plus some lower contrast prints.  You’ll want to pull the following from your Layer Cake:

Four colorway-sorted piles, with at least 4 different prints in each:

A lower contrast or multicolored pile, with at least 8 different prints:

Set aside the rest of the layer cake, as we’ll be using that for the borders!

Keeping each pile together, cut the squares in quarters, giving you little stacks of 5″ squares.

Remaining cutting:
From the Porcelain background yardage:

  • 6 squares that measure 14″, and 4 squares that measure 13 1/2″
  • 8 strips 3 3/4″ by width of fabric (WOF)

From binding fabric:

  • 7 strips 2 1/2″ by WOF

Now that we have all the pieces, let’s get sewing!  We’ll be using a 1/4″ seam for all seams.

Using the squares we cut in the first step, and working with one color pile at a time, sew the squares into nine-patches.  Pick out 9 5″ squares from one of the colorways, and lay them out, trying to make it as scrappy looking as possible:

Sew the squares together into rows:

 And press out the rows with the seams going in opposite directions so that you can nest the seams:

 Sew the rows together and press for your nine-patch:

You’ll need 1 nine-patch in each colorway, and 2 in the low contrast fabrics.

Next, we need to mark those 14″ squares we cut from the background fabric.  Mark the diagonal across the square, with your preferred marking tool.  We’re going to be sewing on either side of that line, so make sure you can see it.  Lay one of your nine-patches down, right side up, and then lay the background square on top, with your marking facing up.

Pin this together, and then sew on either side of the line, 1/4″ away from the line:

Do this with all 6 of the 9 patches that you’ve made up, and then go ahead and cut on those lines that you drew, going right between the lines that you sewed.

 Press these open, and you’ll see that you now have patchwork half square triangles!

You should now have 16 blocks to work with – the 12 half square triangles, plus the 4 13 1/2″ background squares.  Using your design wall or your floor, arrange them for your quilt center.  Be sure to pair up the two half square triangles for the main colorways together, as you can see below:

Sew these squares together to create the center of the quilt.  To help the seams to line up, I usually handle this piecing in quadrants.  I sew together the 4 blocks in the upper left hand corner, then upper right, etc., to create bigger “chunks” that are much easier to manage when matching up corners.

Next, we’ll add the inner border.  Grab the 3 3/4″ strips that you cut from the background.  Take 2 of them, and sew together end to end, to make a double-long strip.

Do this with all 8 strips, so that you have 4 double-long strips – one for each side of the quilt.  Press the seam to one side, and pin to the edges of your quilt center, matching up the seam between the two strips to the seam in the middle of the side of the quilt:

Sew the strips onto the quilt center, using a quarter inch seam:

Sew these strips on the right and left side first, pressing and squaring up these sides before sewing the strips on the other two sides:

Next, we’ll work on the outer border.  Grab the extra 5″ charms that were left over from your 9-patches.  We need a total of 58, so pull about 5 more pieces from the layer cake – just choose your favorite prints here, as we’re still going for a scrappy look – and cut them into 5″ squares.

Choose 13 of the squares, and sew them end to end in a long strip.  Be sure to use a 1/4″ seam! I loosely arranged my squares by color so that I could control the color distribution a big as I sew them together.

Choose another 13, and sew them end to end as well.  Be sure to press these long strips well, and pin them onto opposite sides of the quilt.  Sew each strip onto opposite sides of the the quilt center.

Next, choose 15 squares, and sew them end to end in a long strip.  Do this twice also, which will give you the final borders to attach to the quilt.

Press it all well, and your quilt top is done!  The leftover layer cake pieces can be used in putting together your backing, or you can simply use yardage.  In this case, I used a few layer cake pieces to connect two pieces of yardage, for a scrappy looking back.

Quilt as desired, and use the 2 1/2″ strips that we cut from the binding fabric to construct your binding strips.  I bound this quilt using my preferred method of initially sewing the binding onto the back of the quilt, and then sewing on the front – both by machine.

One 67×67″ lap quilt!

This quilt pattern can also be simplified and made a bit smaller by stopping after you finish the quilt center!  I made this version, using a Twirl (by My Sister and Me) layer cake, and it measures approx. 52″ by 52″.

Sarah Connolly

Positively Epic Quilt

Positively Epic is a quilt that very much lives up to its name! It’s epic in proportion in the fact that it is a queen size quilt of 105” x 105” along with a positive charge of opposites attract with the use of black and white. Not to mention it is also a positive attraction for the use of modern chic and traditional designs with the use of nine patch blocks. Positively Epic is a great quilt for a beginner quilter to a veteran quilter.

(4) Black Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 98
(4) White Bella Solids Layer Cakes 9900 99
(4) Yards of Black Bella Solid 9900 98 for border and binding
(3) Yards of 108 backing

Please read all instructions prior to making this quilt! All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.

Cutting Directions 
Cut each layer cake into: (2) 3 ½” x 10” rectangles and subcut into (4) 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares
Layer cakes can be cut up to four sheets at a time. Any more than four layers will cause stretching of the fabric. 
Total black squares needed: 548
Total white squares needed: 545

From the 4 yards of Black Bella Solids cut (3) continuous yards from the existing four yards. From the three yards cut: (2) 3 ½” x LOF (length of fabric) = (4) 3 ½” x LOF strips

{pressing and assembly guide}

Making the Plus Signs

  • For the Black Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares. 
  • For the White Plus Sign Nine Patches take (5) white 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares and (4) black 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares 
  • Sew them into rows of three according to the diagram below. 
  • Press seams of each row according to the arrows. 

  • Next sew the three rows together but first match and pin the seams, then sew.
  • Press seams according to the arrows 

  • Here are the finished results of both plus signs. All blocks should be 9 ½” x 9 ½” 


     Making the Rows 

    • Start with a white plus sign for the first row.
    • Then sew the white plus sign to a black plus sign. 
    • Next add a white plus sign to the opposite side of the black plus sign. 
    • Alternate plus signs until eleven blocks are sewn together for one row 
    • Press seams according to the arrows 

     …Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row. 

    • The next row will alternate from the first row. 
    • Start with a black plus sign for the second row. 
    • Then sew a black plus sign to a white plus sign. 
    • Next add a black plus sign to the opposite side of the white plus sign 
    • Press seams according to the arrows. 

      … Continue alternating the blocks until there are eleven blocks in the row.

    There will be (6) rows starting with the white plus signs and (5) rows starting with the black plus signs. In all there will be eleven rows to sew together for this quilt.

      Sewing the Rows Together 

      •  Start with one white plus sign row, and then match the seam to a black plus sign row. 
      • Pin seams and sew the row together. 
      • Repeat the same process with the next row. 

       ….. Continue alternating rows until all eleven rows are sewn together. 

        Adding the Border 

        • Starting with the length of the quilt add the 3 ½” x LOF to each side of the quilt. 
        • Press seams towards the darker fabric. 
        • Evenly cut any excess fabric from both borders to match with the quilt center. 
        • Next add the remaining borders to the width of the quilt. 
        • Again evenly cut off any excess fabric to match the length borders evenly. 

        Finishing the Quilt
        Layer the quilt into a sandwich of backing, batting and then the quilt top, baste, and then quilt. Or take the quilt top to a local machine quilter to have the quilt completed. Once quilting is completed, add the binding

        105”x 105”

        Jennifer Overstreet

        Pattern designed and written by Jennifer Overstreet for Moda Bake Shop
        Photos by Jennifer Overstreet

        http://www.ghquilting.com | Copyright © 2013 All Rights Reserved