Mr. Jack’s Bowtie Quilt Block

This block sample uses leftover 5” charm squares from Awesome by Sandy Gervais. What a lovely 3D block for a fall quilt!

1 – 5” charm square for background
1 – 5” charm square for bowtie (I used two for mine – one for the “bow” and one for the “tie”)
2 – 5” charm squares for border
1 – 5” charm square for backing
1 – 5” x 5” piece of batting


1. Cut two – 2” squares from background square.
2. Cut two – 2” squares from bowtie fabric AND one – 2” square for tie.
3. From one of the border strips cut 2 – 1 1/4” x 5” strips. From the other border square
cut 2 – 1 1/4” x 3 1/2” strips. ( I like to be sure that one long side of each of my border strips has the
saw tooth cut on it. This will prevent fraying and eliminate the need for finishing the edges!).
1. Fold one of the tie squares in half, WRONG sides together. Lay this on top of a right side up
background square. The fold should run along the middle of the background square and the raw
edges should be even.
2. Lay a bowtie square, right side down over the top of the pieces in step 1. Match the raw edges. Pin along one of the edges where the two full squares and the folded side of the center square meet. Sew along this edge.

3. Fold the two full squares away from the middle square, tie square should be on the bottom. Lay the free side of the middle folded on the right side of a background square, right sides together. Lay a bowtie square over these squares, right sides and raw edges matching. Pin and sew along edge.
4. This is the tricky part – match the bow fabric to the background fabric on each side of the folded tie square forming a pocket in the folded square. Match centers and raw edges. Pin carefully checking that only the raw edges of the middle folded square are caught in the seam. Sew. This may take a little fiddling to keep only the raw edges of the middle square caught in the seam – the easiest way seems to be to sew to the center and leaving the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot and realign the second half of the block. Continue sewing to the end.
5. Open up your bowtie block and voila! There you have a bowtie block. Press block from the back. Your block should measure 3 1/2” square.

6. Attach the two 3 1/2” x 5” strips to opposite sides of the bowtie block. Press seams to the border.

7. Attach the two 5” x 5” strips to the remaining two sides. Press seams to the border.
8. Layer backing square right side down, then fusible product on top of backing square with fusible side
up. Lay bowtie block on top of fusible with right side up. Press.
9. Quilt as desired. Sample is stitched in the ditch around the bowtie shape and along the border.

One 5″ decorative Mr. Jack’s Bowtie.

Claudia Vess
{Breezeway Quilts}

Sassy Steps Throw Quilt

Hi there! I’m Molly Culley, and I’m thrilled to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you.  This is a really quick and easy quilt to piece that has quite a striking visual impact!  I blog at  Come pay me a visit when you get a chance!

4 Print Charm Packs (I used “Spirit” by Lila Tueller)
2 White Bella Solid Charm Packs
4 yards Backing (I used SKU 11430-11)
3/4 yard Binding (I used SKU 11435-15)

 1.  Choose two print charms; cut in half. Separate into pairs, then sew each pair together in the middle, using a 1/4″ seam. 

2.  Choose a coordinating print charm and a solid charm.

3. We’ll be making half-square triangles with the print and solid.  Draw a line from one corner to the other of the solid charm, with the print underneath.  Draw a line 1/4 inch on either side of the center line.  These will be your sewing lines.

4.  Sew on your sewing lines.  I like to prepare several charms for sewing, so I can chain piece. 

5.  Align your ruler on the middle diagonal line of your square, and cut.  Open up each piece and press to the darker fabric.

6.  The segments of the block so far:

7.  Layout your block:  Place the  half-square triangle pieces across from each other in the block, with the “tips” of the print triangles touching in the center.  Place your dual-color pieces across from one another in the empty spaces, making sure the alignment is the same on each side (like prints are in the middle together, aligned either horizontally or vertically).

8.  Sewing the block together: Making sure that you are working from the middle of the block outward, sew the top two pieces, then the bottom two pieces together.  Press toward the dual colored section of the block as this will allow for nesting of seams.  Align the two halves of the block together in the middle, matching seams, and sew together.  Press.  You will need to make 24 blocks with the dual colored segments of the block in a horizontal orientation, and 25 blocks in a vertical orientation.  The half-square triangle segments stay constant in their alignment throughout all the blocks.  It will help in your layout process if you keep the two block “types” separated.

9.  Trimming your blocks:  Trim each block to 9″ square. 

10.  Laying out your blocks:  I started my layout with a vertically aligned block, then alternated each block in the row (vertical, horizontal, vertical…).  Remember the half-square triangles determine the layout…make sure they are all aligned the right way!   Lay out all the blocks into a pleasing arrangement of 7 blocks down by 7 blocks across.  Step back and admire (and make sure you have a nice balance of colors, of course!)

11.  Assemble your quilt top:  Begin sewing the blocks in a row together.  Once each row is sewn, begin sewing the rows together, matching seams together so all your blocks meet perfectly!  Press well. 

12.  Backing:  Press your backing fabric very well.  When a project has a pieced backing, I lay my fabric out, then lay my quilt top on top of it.  I don’t like my seam to be right in the middle, so I offset the cut a bit, then sew the two pieces together. 

13.  Binding:  I used 6-2.5″ strips for my binding.  Feel free to cut a narrower binding if you like.

14. Layer your backing, batting and top, then baste.  Quilt and bind as desired.  I quilted mine with an all-over meander.  Wash, dry, and pull a cozy, crinkly thing of beauty out of your dryer!!! 

One super-cozy throw that is just the right size (57″ x 57″) for snuggling with!  Enjoy!!!  I’d love to see your finished creations; please email them to me!  Thanks to Moda for a wonderful, creative place to share!

Molly Culley

Boxed In Quilt

Hi all you Moda Bake Shop fans!!! This is KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy back with another goodie for you!!

Do you need a quick quilt for a gift? Getting chilly at this time of year and need a fast lap warmer? Need an idea for a charity quilt or want to make a quilt for Quilts for Kids or the like? This pattern is definitely one that can be put together in a weekend, or even less, if you are ambitious!

I love all the fun bright colors in Sandy Gervais’ new line, Lollipop which is why I chose it for this quilt! If you love it as much as I do…head on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has a kit at a discounted price waiting just for you!! Hurry though, she only has a limited supply!!

1 Lollipop Layer Cake
1/2 yard for first border (7521-444)
1 yard for second border (17555-13)
1/2 yard for binding (17557-24)
4 yards for backing (17551-13)

— 1/4″ seams used throughout
— LC is an abbreviation for Layer Cake

1.  Pull out all 7 of the solid LC pieces.

2.  Cut them into 5 x 5 squares

**NOTE** If you don’t have enough solids or don’t want to use the solids, you can use the 5” piece you cut out in a future step and mix and match them in your LC pieces too. 🙂

3.  Choose 25 LC pieces that the solids will contrast with.

4.  Pair up a 5” solid square with a LC piece –I put mine in a pile as I matched them up until I had what I liked.

5. Now we cut the layer cakes apart.

6.  Start by cutting 1 1/4” from the left side of the LC.

7.  From the edge you just cut, cut over another 5”.

8.  Turn the center piece sideways and trim at 2”

9.  From the edge you just cut, cut over another 5”. Now rotate the pieces back in their respective spots.

10. Replace the center 5” piece with your solid.

**NOTE**  To make sewing go faster, I cut up each layer cake and placed them with their solid and stacked them up on a 12.5” square ruler for easy transport. Keeping each piece in its respective position. This way you can chain piece each block when it’s time to sew. 🙂

11.  Sew your center row together. Press.

12. Then sew on the sides. Press.

13. Repeat for all 25 layer cake pieces.

14. Trim off the overhanging edges and square up to 9” if necessary.

15. Lay out your blocks, 5 across and 5 down, in a pleasing order, making sure to rotate your blocks for a wonky effect.

16. Then sew the blocks into rows, and then sew the rows together. Press.

17. For the first border, cut (5) 2” strips from your first border fabric. The top and bottom border will be just one strip each. When you do the sides, you will have to piece the strips.

18. Cut (6 ) 4 1/2” strips from your second border fabric. You will have to piece each side for this border.

19. Press once more, then sandwich with the batting and the backing, quilt, bind, then throw it in the wash and dry. 🙂

This quilt will measure about 50″ x 50″ after washing.  Isn’t it cute? 😀

If you want to make the quilt larger, just add more layer cake pieces and follow the same steps!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.  I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!


A Ritzy Cracker Quilt

Hi! I am Mary and I’m so happy to share this tutorial with you. The Cracker Block is a traditional quilt block that can looks great in everything from reproductions to beautiful designer fabrics like Fandango. It is a really versatile, fun block with a ton of layout options.

2 42 piece charm packs from the same line (Fandango by Kate Spain)
1 yard background fabric (Moda Bella Solid, Ivory)
1/2 yard binding Fabric (Fandango Raya Sierra)
3 yards backing fabric (Fandango Sarabande in Sand)
Batting for a 44″ x 52″ quilt

Take one charm pack and cut each square in half diagonally. Take the second charm pack and cut each square in half horizontally.

Take your background fabric and cut 42 2.5”x5” rectangles and 42 4.25” squares. Cut your 4.25” squares diagonally to produce 84 triangles in your background fabric.

Attach the horizontal charm pieces on either side of a 2.5” x 5” strip with a ¼” seam. Press seams as desired.

Now take your diagonally cut charm of the same print and center a triangle at each end of your strip section. Attach with a ¼” seam.

Press your seams open to reduce bulk later on. Trim dog ears.

Now center an ivory triangle over each side of the strip section. Attach with a ¼” seam.

Press these seams open and trim your block to 7 ¾” square.

Now you have a finished cracker block! Finish your other blocks and arrange as desired.

This is a really versatile block that can be arranged many ways. Some ways are:


Zig Zag




Once you have the layout you like, sew your blocks together. I sewed them in 6 columns and 7 rows to use each block.

Create your binding strips and backing. Baste, bind, quilt.

Makes one 44″ x 52″ quilt.
Double your recipe for a really big quilt!

I hope you enjoy this tutorial.  If you make a quilt with it, let me know… it’d thrill my soul! Come visit me at The Tulip Patch to see this pattern in different fabrics and enter a giveaway I am hosting to celebrate my first Moda Bake Shop post!

Mary Lane Brown
{The Tulip Patch}

Charming Stars Quilt

Hello! I am Stefanie from Little Lady Patchwork. I am so thrilled to be sharing another Moda Bake Shop project with you.

My inspiration for my Charming Stars quilt comes from my latest obsession, charm packs. This time I wanted to create a simple quilt that involved very little cutting. The only cutting involved in the Charming Stars quilt is the background fabric, which makes this the perfect weekend project.

Grab your favorite charm packs and let’s get baking!

  • (3) Charm Packs of Fandango by Kate Spain + two extra 5″ squares or charms
  • (2 1/2 yards) of Bella Solid Ivory  SKU# 9900-11
  • (1) yard of cream floral SKU #27052-17 for the borders
  • (1/2) yard of pink stripe fabric SKU 27051-11 for the binding and the settting stones
  • (4 1/2) yards of blue tile fabric SKU# 27043-11 for the backing

Cutting Instruction:
From the Bella Solid Ivory, cut:

  • (10)  2 7/8″ X Width of Fabric (WOF) strips.
  •  Subcut each strip into (128) 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ squares.

Also cut:

  • (1) 5 ” X WOF strip.
  • Subcut this strip into (16) 5 ” X 5″ squares.

Also from the Bella Solid Ivory, cut:
  • (12) 2 1/2″ X WOF strips.
  • Subcut each strip into (24) 2 1/2″ X 14″ rectangles.
Finally, from the Bella Solid Ivory, cut:
  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 60 1/2″ strips

  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 64 1/2″ strips
From the Pink Stripe fabric, cut:
  • (9) 2 1/2″ X WOF strips.
  • Subcut ONE strip into (9) 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ squares.
  • The remaining strips will be used for the binding.

From the cream border fabric, cut:
  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 64 1/2″ strips
  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 68 1/2″ strips
Block Construction
Note: All seams are sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press all seams in the direction of the arrows.
Step 1:
  • Lay your ruler on top of the ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ sqaure.
Step 2:
  • Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on each of the ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ squares.
Step 3:
  • With Right Sides Together (RST), layer an ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ square on top of a 5″ X 5″ charm square.
Step 4 :
  • Using your sewing machine, stitch on the diagonal line.
Step 5:
  • Place the 1/4″ mark of your ruler on the diagonal line that you just stitched.
Step 6:
  • Using your rotary cutter, trim 1/4″ away from the diagonal line.
Step 7:
  • Press the block open.
Step 8:
  • With RST, layer another ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ square on the opposite corner of the 5″ X 5″ charm square.
Step 9:
  • Stitch on the diagonal line.

Step 10:

  • Place the 1/4″ mark of your ruler on the diagonal line.

Step 11:

  • Using your rotary cutter, trim 1/4″ away from the diagonal line.
  • Discard the triangular piece.

Step 12:

  • Press the block open.

  • The block should measure 5″ X 5″ square.
  • Repeat and make a total of 64 blocks.

Step 13:

  • Layout the charm squares as shown below.

Step 14:

  • Join the 5″X5″ charm squares following the above layout.
  • Press the seams in the direction of the arrows.

Step 15:

  • Join the rows to complete the block.
  • Press the seams in the direction of the arrows.
Step 16:
You are now ready to assemble the quilt top. Refer to the photo and diagram for your block placement.
  • Layout the blocks into 4 rows of (4) 14″ X 14″ blocks
  • Place a white 2 1/2″ X 14″ rectangular strip in between the blocks.
For the (3) sashing rows:
  • Alternate a white 2 1/2″ X 14″ rectagular strip and a 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ sqaure for each sashing row.
    Step 17: 
    • Use the following diagram to attach the borders to the quilt top.
    Step 18:
    • Make a quilt sandwich and baste the layers together.
    • Quilt as desired.
    • Bind the quilt using your favorite method.
    (1) Charming Stars Quilts
    68″ X 68″ square
    Finished block size: 13 1/2″ X 13 1/2″
    I  hope that my Charming Stars quilt inspires you to make your own simple version. Please visit my blog to see my Fig Tree version of the Charming Stars quilt.
    Have fun creating your own Charming Stars!
    Stefanie Roman
    Little Lady Patchwork

    Braided Irish Chain Quilt

    Hello all!  I am so excited about this project.  It happens to be the largest quilt I have made, as well as the largest quilt I have quilted.  This project is a “twist” on a classic.  The Irish Chain is one of the most traditional quilting patterns, so I took that wonderful tradition and then kicked it up a few notches.  And please don’t be scared by the size, whether you are a beginner or an expert, this quilt is a wonderful project.

    So are you excited??  If you have any questions feel free to contact me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.   And you can always find me at  And as always, Happy Quilting!
    1 –  A Morris Tapestry Jelly Roll  (I used this collection as I wanted a more traditional collection to match my twisted traditional pattern.  If you want a different collection so that it matches your room or what not, feel free.  You’ll just need 40 Jelly Roll Strips.)
    2 –  Moda Bella Solids Natural Jelly Rolls (If you are using a different collection make sure your solid coordinates )
    2 3/4 Yard – Bella Solid Natural.  (You need exactly 2 3/4 yard so if they don’t cut straight at the store, give yourself a bit extra to square things up.)
    6 3/4 Yard – Coordinating Print for the Backing.  (You will cut this into three 2 1/4 pieces and sew them together to make the back.)
    A quick side note before we start. I tried to make this tutorial very beginner friendly. If you are not a beginner, feel fee to simply skim the instructions for what you need. If you are a beginner and you happen to have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. You can email me at I will try to answer all of your questions asap.  All sewing is done with 1/4 inch seams.

    STEP 1 –  CUTTING 

    Layout the strips of your jelly roll, lining them up with the 0 line at the base of the board.  I did mine 8 at a time and didn’t double them up since you will be making several cuts and don’t want things shifting.  
    Cut across at the horizontal 16 1/2 inch line on your mat.  Now if your mat is like mine, you don’t have a 16 1/2 inch line.  So how do you do this you ask?  Simple, just line your ruler up so that the first 1/2″ mark is aligned with the 16 inch line on your mat.  You can check to make sure it is aligned along that 1/2″ ruler mark between each of your strips.  So now, your ruler should be placed at exactly 16 1/2″ up from the 0 line on your mat.  And just cut across all 8 pieces of your jelly strips.   Now without moving your fabric cut at the 19 inch horizontal line on your mat and the 21 1/2 inch line using the same method you did for the first cut.  This gives you a 33″ long piece and 4 pieces that are 2 1/2″ square in each print. (and a tiny bit of scrap selvage)  Repeat this process with all 40 of your print jelly roll strips.  Remember to take your time, precise cutting saves time in sewing 🙂
    When you are finished, you should have a stack of (40) 33″ long strips and (120) 2 1/2″ squares.  This project only requires 54 of those squares.  I picked out 1 of each print and then 14 more squares of my favorite prints.  Set the remaining 66 squares in your stash to make up something fun in the future. (These are perfect for HSTs, as they are already cut and ready to go.)
    Now grab your first Bella Solid Jelly Roll.  Isn’t it so hard to open them up? They look so cute rolled in a roll.  Go ahead and open it up.  Layout  the jelly roll strips in the same fashion, 8 at a time, lining up along the base of the board on the 0 line.  
    You are now going to make the same first cut at 16 1/2 inch line (using your ruler to create the line) . Then without moving any of your fabric, cut again along the 21 inch line on your mat.  This gives you a 33″ strip and two 4 1/2″ pieces out of each strip.  Repeat this process for all 40 strips in your Jelly Roll.   
    Now we need to cut a few remaining pieces.  So break open your second solid Jelly Roll.  Lay out 6 strips from your jelly roll however, this time lay them slightly over the 0 line.  Only like 1/4″.    
    Start by aligning your ruler along the horizontal 0 line on your mat and cut off the tiny overhang.  So now you won’t have any pieces that are folded.  Without moving any fabrics, slide your ruler up to the 8 1/2 inch line and cut horizontal.  (Now I know there is no 8 1/2″ line but you are a pro at the ruler trick by now).  Continue to slide your ruler up and cut along the horizontal 17 inch line on your mat. Once more, slide your ruler up and cut along the 21 1/2″ line. You should have four 8 1/2″ strips and two 4 1/2″ pieces out of each of the 6 strips.  So (24) 8 1/2″ long pieces and 12 more 4 1/2″ long pieces.
    And now, we only need 4 more 4 1/2″ pieces from our jelly roll.  So get one more strip out, line it up and cut 4 more 4 1/2″ pieces.  I choose to take it from the top doubled up.  You can do that or whatever works best for your and your scrap needs.  
    We are done with the pre-cut cutting.  Go ahead and pull out your solid yardage of neutral fabric.  (And iron it first; don’t follow my poor example. I cut this one strip and then ironed because I already had my camera out and didn’t want to forget where I was).  You are going to cut (22) 4 1/2″ strips out of your yardage. 
    Simply line your fabric along any vertical line on the far right of your mat making sure that the fold runs evenly across the 0 line on the bottom of your mat. If the edge of your fabric is not straight, line up your ruler on a vertical mat line closest to the edge of your fabric and cut along the mat line, giving you a nice straight edge to work with.  Now,  count over 4 1/2″ on your mat, align your ruler along the top and bottom of that measurement and cut.  Keep doing this until you run out of mat and then start over repeating until you have 22 strips.    
    You are going to take those strips and cut them up some more.  First, you are going to take 6 strips and cut them into four 10 1/2″ pieces for a total of (24) 10 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces.  You can do this the same way we cut the jelly roll strips before.  Line 3 strips along the bottom of your mat slightly hanging over the 0 line.  Cut along the 0 horizontal line.  Then measure up 10 1/2″ and using your ruler trick, cut at 10 1/2 inches.  Then measure up another 10 1/2 inches which will put you at the 21 inch horizontal mat line and cut again.  Repeat this process with the other 3 strips.
    Your almost there, just one more set of cuts.  Now you are going to cut the remaining 16 strips and cut them into six 6 1/2″ pieces for a total of  (96) 6 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces.  Once again, we are going to use the same method as above.  Line 3 strips along the bottom of your mat slightly hanging over the 0 line.  Cut along the 0 horizontal line.  Then measure up 6 1/2″ and using your ruler trick, cut at 6 1/2 inches.  Then measure up another 6 1/2 inches which will put you at the 13 inch horizontal mat line and cut again. Now measure up 6 1/2″ more to 19 1/2″ and using your ruler, cut horizontal again.  There is some extra scrap along the top.   Repeat this process for all 22 strips.
    Wow, you did it!!  Remember, this is a large quilt, so it is a large cutting job!  Just as a checklist, this is what you should have.  I made this picture a little larger so that you could see my little handwritten notes 🙂
    Okay, so no one wants to stitch all of those squares together individually.  To save a huge amount of time, we are going to sew our strips together first, and then cut.  I call this Strip Piecing, I don’t know if that is the technical name for this method but it works for me.  In this method, we are going to take a 33 inch strip of solid and a 33 inch strip of your print and sew them together.  So this is the idea of what it will look like.  As a side note, I like to turn my stitch length down a bit for strip piecing.  Since I will be going back and cutting these all up I find it helps to keep edges from coming undone.  This is a personal preference, you do what you feel comfortable with.
    With right sides together, lay your 33″ strip on top of your solid strip.  Now remember, the picture only shows three but you will be doing this with all 40 of your sets of strips.  Where the pen indicates, you will sew a 1/4″ seam down the full length of your strip.  Don’t worry about pinning, just line them up by hand and feed them through, focusing on keeping the pieces matching where you are sewing your seam.  If you get to the bottom of the piece and the one piece overhangs a little no worries, I made allowance for that in the cutting.  
    Once you get to the bottom of the strip, simply feed the next set of strips in.  This is called Chain Stitching and it saves so much time and it is a lot of fun as well.  We also will be using it a ton in this tutorial so enjoy the practice.  Just keep feeding those sets of strips through your machine until you have sewn together all 40 sets. 
    Okay, so you have finished sewing the 40 strips.  Now you will go ahead and cut the threads between them.  
    Now to pressing.  This project has a lot of little squares put together and for that reason, I choose to press my seams open.  I found it really helped reduce bulk.  With that said, I know pressing is a very personal thing, so if you are not a fan of pressing seams open, press them whichever way you like.
    And back to cutting.  I know, but I promise, this is the last of cutting.  You now have 40 beautiful 33″ long sets of strips.  We are going to cut them down into 2 1/2″ pieces.  You got this right.  Just like we did before. Line up 4 to 5 strips along the bottom.  (I know it is tempting here to stack up several pieces on top of each other but fight the urge). Cut a nice straight edge using your 0 line.  Then keep measuring up 2 1/2 inches slicing as you go.  In the end, you have (13) 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 sets of 2 patches with a little bit of leftover for wiggle room from each print.
    Continue this process with all 40 of your sets.  You should have 520 little 2 patch rectangles.  Aren’t they adorable.  I left mine in stacks like this and choose randomly.  I would suggest not playing with them much as they are cut after being sewn and if they are mixed up in a bag or thrown around to much the seams can start to come undone. 

    Each of the blocks in this quilt are made up of smaller “building blocks”.  We are going to start with what I call the opposite 4 patch block.  Now I have tried to really detail this process because not only does it create “building blocks,” it goes over the basic building steps of piecing quilts that will be used over and over in this tutorial.  So here we go.  Start by grabbing 2 sets of your 2 patch rectangles. Align them so that the prints and solids are opposite.
    Now lay your first piece over on to the other piece.  When I say lay, I don’t mean pick up and possibly spin around and then lay.  I like to think that whatever two pieces I am going to be sewing have a hinge between them.  When it is laid out, you simply lift the top piece and “fold” it over onto the bottom piece without changing anything where the seam or “hinge” would be.  I know this sounds silly with this little piece but the rest of the tutorial is based on understanding this and it is really easy to mix up where your seams are being sewn if you don’t keep an eye on it.  So with that being said, I tried to slightly alter the alignment on this picture to illustrate this point. 
    Whenever you are aligning two pieces that have seams in the same spot, you always want to make sure those seams align perfectly.  Don’t worry about how the edges line up as much.  The seam is the most important.  
    So go ahead and pin your piece where you will be sewing your 1/4 inch seam ie where your “hinge” would be.  (Sorry, I just realized that after I picked this piece up to take a picture of it I turned it over when I pinned it, I hope that doesn’t cause confusion.) 
    We are going to be making 144 of these opposite 4 patch squares.  So go ahead and pin up a bunch (I did mine in groups of 50, 50, and 44 as that is how many pins I had.)  Now that you have a huge stack of pinned sets, you are going to stitch them.  Sew a 1/4″ seam, making sure to pull out pins as you come to them.  Just keep feeding your pieces through, chain stitching a long line of opposite 4 patches.
    After you’re done with a group of four patches, go ahead and clip your threads between pieces.
    Once again, press your seams open (or your preference) for your set of 4 patches.
    Keep repeating this process until you have 144 Four Patch Opposite Squares.  Aren’t they cute?
    Now we are going to be making the Same Four Patch Squares.  I know, not a great name, but it is all I could come up with.  You will be making 96 of these 4 patches.  Align your first two pieces so that your prints are next to one another and your solids are also next to one another.  
    Just like before, you are going to make sure your seam lines up.  Also, notice the difference on how your squares line up.  You know you are right if your prints are together and your solids are together.  Go ahead and pin at the seam first, and then along the edges.  Do this for your first batch of 50 or so till you run out of pins.  (I know, tons of pinning, but it doesn’t take much brain power, feel free to multi-task while pinning.  I found it was a great thing to do while helping my son with his homework.)
    Now start sewing your 1/4 inch seam, chain stitching your batch of 4 patches.  Remember to pull pins as you go along.  
    Clip your threads between pieces and then press.  Repeat this process with your whole batch.
    When you are finished, you should have 96 Same Four Patch Squares.  Way to go!!
    You only need a few more building blocks and they are already made.  Pull out 24 of your 2 patch rectangles.  This is a great opportunity to set aside any duplicates you might still have.  
    So now you have 16 extra 2 patch squares.  Set these aside for a future project. 
    Now that the building blocks are made, you are ready to start making the blocks for the quilt.  The next steps will walk you through making block A, B, C, and sashing. 
    STEP 4 – BLOCK A
    You will be making 24 Block A’s.  For each instruction, make sure you are doing it 24 times (unless otherwise noted).  It always saves time to do things in an assembly line.  Get 48 Opposite Four Patch Squares, (48) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ solid rectangles, (48) 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ solid rectangles, and 24 printed 2 1/2″ squares.  
    This is the layout for the block.  Go ahead and sew your columns together and then your rows 24 times. 
    STEP 5 – BLOCK B
    You will be making 24 Block B’s.  For each instruction make sure you are doing it 24 times (unless otherwise noted).  You know the drill about saving time.   Get all 96 of your  Same Four Patch Squares, 48 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ solid rectangles, 24 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ solid rectangles, and 24 printed 2 1/2″ squares.
    This is the layout for Block B.  (Sorry, I forgot to spread out the pieces to make it easier to tell  the pieces). Sew your columns together and then your rows 24 times.
    STEP 6 – BLOCK C
    You will be making 6 Block C’s.  Yes that’s right , you only have to make 6 of something!  Here is what you need to make your 6 Block C’s.  24 of your Opposite Four Patch squares, 24 of your 2 patch rectangles, and  6 of the 2 1/2″ squares.
    Here is the layout for Block C. Sew your columns together and then your rows 6 times.
    Okay, so now you’re asking, why are we putting the sashing together before we put together what we are going to sash?  And the answer is, because when we get those big huge blocks together and you are so close to seeing your quilt complete, the last thing you are going to want to do is fiddle with sashing. So I like to do them early so they are ready when you are. Grab the remaining 72 Opposite Four Patch Squares, 24 of the solid 4 1//2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles, and 48 of the 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ solid rectangles.  
    So this is the layout of your sashing.   You will be making 24 sets of each layout.  Make sure that you have 24 sets where the top left hand corner of your four patch is a colored print and 24 sets where the top left hand corner of the four patch is your solid.  This is really easy to flip so pay close attention.  Sew your sashing.
    Split your sashing’s into 2 piles of 12.  Go ahead and set one pile aside, they are done.  The other pile of 12 we will be adding corner squares onto.  Here is the layout for the corner squares.  Grab the last of your opposite four patch squares.  This is where we finish up using your “building blocks”.  
    Make sure that your Corner Squares layout match these.  Once again, it is really easy to spin and block and then your chain will not quite link up.  Sew your corner blocks on.  
    And there you have it, 12 Sashing’s with corner blocks added.  Pat yourself on the back!  
    This is where you really get to see the quilt come together.  You will be making 6 “Big Blocks”. For each  “Big Block” you will need 4 Block A, 4 Block B, and 1 Block C.  here is how they will be laid out.
    Sew the rows together.  This is what your Row 1 looks like.  You should have 6 of them.
    Now onto Row 2. This is what it should look like when finished.  You should have 6 of them.
    And you guessed it, same concept for row 3.  This is what it should look like when finished.  Remember – 6 🙂
    Now that your Rows are all made lay them out and sew them together – 6 times :). 

    For each Big Block you need 2 regular sashing’s and 2 sashing’s with corner blocks.  Here is the layout.  The regular sashing’s are layed on the left and right hand side of your block and the sashing’s with corners are added to the top and bottom of your block.  
    We’ll add the left and right hand regular sashing first.  
    Here is what it should look like.  Super nice!!
    Now you are ready to add the sashings with the corner blocks to the top and bottom of your block.  Make sure to pin lining up seams and sew 6 times.
    And there you have it!  6 Big Blocks that have been sashed and are ready to be put into your quilt top.
    I totally had to rearrange my living room in order to lay out the six blocks for a picture.  You can see all the furniture on the side, tee hee hee.  Go ahead and lay out your 6 blocks in three rows of 2 blocks each.  You can spin your blocks as much as you like to get the look that is pleasing to your eye. Sew blocks into rows and then rows together.
    And there you have it, your completed top!  Isn’t it amazing.  Ya, I did a little dance in my living room at this point in time.  Go ahead, do your own dance, you deserve it!!
    Now to finish you just quilt and bind.  I know, it sounds so easy.  There are tons and tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting.  Just Google it and practice 🙂 .  I quilted this quilt on my little “Bernadette” the Bernette Bernina so don’t be afraid.  It is possible to quilt this without a long arm!  (If you missed that, yes, I named my sewing machine Bernadette).  Use 10 of your extra solid jelly roll strips to do the binding.  There is a great tutorial here on how to bind:  And you are done!!!  Way to go!! This is a big project and you should be so proud of yourself.  Yup, It’s back to the victory dance!  Now, if you would like to, head over to my Happy Quilting Tutorial’s Flick page to upload your quilt.  I would love to see your work!
    One Beautiful Braided Irish Chain quilt measuring 76 x 114.  Enjoy!!!

    ADDITION – I have since created a pattern for this quilt in 6 alternate sizes, including a Queen 90 x 90 and King 107 x 107.  You can find it here 🙂

    Melissa Corry