SLICED New Sponsor

The prize packages keep on growing, even on the last day of the Auditions. 

We are excited to announce the joining of another Sponsor to our SLICED contest! Please welcome, Presencia Threads by Colonial Needle and their generous contribution to our four prize winners.

Check out these fantastic prize packages! 

It’s not too late… Hurry and get your auditions in by midnight tonight!  

There is Still Time to Enter the SLICED Contest!!

Hurry! There’s still time to get your submission in for our Sliced Sewing Competition!! You have until midnight CST tonight {February 29} to upload your entry to the Sliced Flickr Group.
Here’s a brief review of the rules. Please see this post for more info about our fabulous sponsors and amazing prizes!
Crafters may submit as many projects as you wish that stay within the Sliced rules.
  • Projects must use all items contained in the sewing basket listed below.
  • Additional items may be used to complete your project.
  • Completed projects must be submitted on the Moda Bake Shop Sliced Flickr Group {flickr.com/groups/slicedcontest} in order to be eligible to be selected for the Sliced sewing competition.
  • Anonymous submissions are not allowed. A contact email/website must be provided with each submission.
  • All submissions must be your own original design.
  • All pictures must be clean and clear.
  • No animals are allowed in pictures unless the project is specifically designed for animal use.
  • Auditions end February 29, 2012 at 11:59pm {central time}.
The Challenge? All audition submissions must be some sort of Office/Studio Accessory. 
It can be anything that would be used on or at an Office or Studio setting.

Sewing Basket of Mystery Items:
  • Fabrics used must feature at least one type of Moda precut. Additional Moda fabrics may be used to complete your project.
  • Project must use at least one type of buckle. This can be any size, shape or color.
  • Project must also include Quilt Batting somewhere in or on the project.

 Please email modabakeshop@unitednotions.com with any questions you may have.

Line Dance Baby Quilt


Hi, I’m Kathy Mack from Pink Chalk Studio. I’m very excited to share with you this quick and easy baby quilt. A simple project you can complete the day before the baby shower! All you need is one Charm Pack and 1 1/2 yards of background fabric.

  • 1 Charm Pack – Sweetwater Reunion Charm Pack
  • 1.5 yards Background Fabric – Moda Cross Weave Green Orange
  • 5.5 yards Binding – Moda Bella Bias Quilter’s Binding Christmas Red
  • Backing and Batting for a 41″ x 49″ quilt top

1. Cut the following selvage to selvage strips from the background fabric:
Cut (2) strips 2.75″ x WOF (width of fabric)
Cut (4) strips 4″ x WOF
Cut (4) strips 5″ x WOF

2. Layout charm squares into 4 sets containing 7 squares each and 1 set containing 8 squares. Arrange prints for a pleasing balance of color and scale.


3. Piece together charm square sets to create 5 vertical rows. Select your 3 favorite 7 square rows for the quilt center.


4. Place charm square rows on work table. Place 4″ sashing strips between the vertical charm square rows and on either side.


5. Sew a sashing strip to the left side of each vertical charm square row. Trim ends of sashing to match length of charm square rows. Sew rows together.


6. Sew 2.75″ sashing strip to top of quilt center. Trim ends of sashing to match width of quilt center. Press seams open. Repeat on bottom for remaining 2.75″ sashing strip.


7. Fold the remaining 2 charm square rows so they fit on your cutting mat. Cut in half lengthwise to create 2 strips that measure 2.5″ x 32″ (the 7 charm square row) and 2 strips that measure 2.5″ x 36.5″ (the 8 charm square row).


8. Sew a 2.5″ x 36.5″ strip to the left side of quilt center. Press seams open. FLIP the remaining strip so fabrics run in the opposite direction. Sew remaining strip to the right side of the quilt center.

Repeat for top and bottom using the 2.5″ x 32″ strips.
Sew 5″ strips of background fabric to left side of quilt center. Trim ends of border to match length of quilt center. Press seams open. Repeat with another 5″ strip of background fabric on the right side of quilt center.
Repeat for top and bottom using remaining 5″ strips.


9. Layer quilt top, batting and backing. I used a simple, no-mark approach for my quilting. Working from center of quilt out, use a walking foot to stitch a wavy line using the edges of the vertical column charm squares as a guide. Stitch down the center of the 2.5″ strips and finally, stitch down the middle of the borders.



Finished quilt: 41″ x 49″
Kathy Mack

Sophie Car Seat Quilt



Hello!  I’m Jennie and I blog {along with my mom} over at Clover and Violet.  I have two little kids, both born in the winter.  With my little boy I quickly discovered how easily blankets are kicked off, so I designed a little quilt that tied to the infant car seat handle.  When I found out my second was a girl, I knew she needed a girly version for the car seat too!  This little quilt also works great for a stroller and can be a little play mat in a pinch too!

If you’re interested in making one of these too, my friends at Sew Lux Fabric and Gifts have put together a a few special kits at a special price just for this quilt {the kits feature a few different fabrics as they’re already sold out of Sophie charm squares…I think I might need to make another one!}.  Click here for details.

1 Charm Pack
1 yard large print for backing and binding
1/4 yard small print for borders
1/2 yard Bella Solids Snow for sashing
1 yard cotton flannel or batting

First, select 18 charm squares and pair them up {for 9 pairs}.  Then, chose 7 more charms for the setting triangles, cut them in half diagonally {from point to point}, set aside.

Place the pairs right sides together, then draw a line a line on the wrong side of one of the charms from point to point.  Stitch through both charms 1/4 inch from the centerline on both sides of the line.

Cut the pair of charms in half along the drawn line.  Press the halves open to make two half-square-triangle pairs.  Trim each new square to 4 1/2″.

Once you have sewn all 18 pairs and have 18 new squares, arrange the squares and setting triangles into rows, as shown:

From the Bella Snow, cut ten {10} 1 1/2″ strips.  Leave behind the very last triangle of each row and sew the remaining pieces onto about four {4} of the sashing strips.  Cut the blocks from the strips and begin forming quilt rows as shown:

I like to leave a little bit of the sashing hanging past the blocks so that I can trim it after I’ve sewn the rows, this gives a nice straight finish.  Then sew the remaining triangle onto the end of the row.

After completing the rows, begin sewing the rows onto about three {3} remaining sashing pieces.  In order to line up the short sashing rows, I fold the top half-square-triangle row in half, line up the short sashings and pin at the intersections.  This creates a nice grid.

Once you’ve completed sewing all your rows together, trim the quilt.  To get nice, accurate points, trim 1/4″ past each of the points, always lining up at least two points while you’re trimming.

Use the remaining sashing pieces to create a border around the quilt.  Then, from the small border print, cut four {4} 2″ strips.  Sew the border on in the same manner as the sashing.

Layer using your favorite batting.  I used prewashed cotton flannel in my little quilt because where we live a heavy quilt isn’t necessary.  This is a great option for a warm climate or a spring or fall baby, when a little warmth is needed, but not as much as a full quilt.  I quilted with an allover meander.  Because my quilt was lightweight, I also used a single fold binding method.

Instead of using a 2 1/2″ piece of binding folded in half {as for a standard double fold binding}, use a 1 1/2″ piece not folded.  Then pull it flat, tuck the raw edge in, and wrap it around to the back.  I always pin or clip my binding down when using a single fold to avoid excess fraying.

Now, the final touch to this little quilt is adding the ties.  Cut two 1 1/2″ x 28″ strips {I cut mine from the remaining backing piece}.  Fold in half, press, then fold both raw edges toward the center seam as for bias binding.

Pin one ties ten inches {10″} from the top of the quilt on each side.  Stitch in place and your quilt is ready for outings!

One 25″ x 30″ quilt, ready to be tied on to any car seat or stroller!

Oh, and hopefully one cozy warm {and stylish} baby too!

I hope you enjoy this design, and if you make it I’d love for you to share it to the Clover & Violet and the Moda Bake Shop Flickr groups.

{Clover & Violet}

Grandma’s {Playtime} Buntings Quilt


Hi! I’m Kimberly from My Brown Bag Studio and I’m really happy to be back again with my second project for the Bake Shop kitchen. Working with this line of fabric was literally like a walk down memory lane… it seemed that each print reminded me of my Grandma more than the last. And creating a quilt with bunting just brought vintage and modern together perfectly!

1 – 30’s Playtime Layer Cake
1- Bella Solids Charm Pack in Snow
1/2 yard Bella Solids in Snow for border
3 1/2 yards Blue Bonnet 3258614 for backing
3/4 yard Blue Bonnet 32585 14 for binding
6 3/4 yards of jumbo white ricrac
basic quilting supplies
red thread if desired for contrast stitching.


1. Open your layer cake and choose 36 squares for your quilt. Make sure that the kitten you got for Christmas is sound asleep at this point.

2. Layout the squares in 6×6 rows the way you like them.

3. Sew together with 1/4″ seams

4. Press to one side, each row opposite.

5. Matching seams, sew rows together.

6. Press quilt flat and set aside.

Now we’ll make the prairie points… My quilt used 35 prairie points for the bunting flags, but you may choose to use more or less. I also had white layer cake squares available to me, so I cut them down to charm square size. The simple process was like this… cutting 5″ squares…

1. Press a charm square in half.

2. Press the two corners down to make a point.

3. Voila! The prairie point!

4. My 35 prairie points.

Check on that kitten again before moving on… because to a kitten, a quilt out on the floor is just way too tempting… believe me, I know!

1. Layout your quilt and position the prairie points in bunting-ish swoops.

2. When placing my prairie points, I loosely measured two fingers between each to keep them evenly spaced.

3. When you come to the edge of your quilt, be sure to leave a generous seam allowance (more than 1/4″) so you don’t sew into the prairie point when you attach the border.

4. Pin. Pin, pin, pin. Pin all the prairie points in place, making sure not to disturb the lines of the bunting-ish swoops.

5. Using a scant 1/4″ seam, stitch the prairie points in place using white thread, just to hold them in place.

6. Using either white or red thread and a generous seam allowance, sew the two folded edges to the quilt. A generous seam allowance will make for a quilt with interesting texture once it’s quilted and washed. On my girlfriend’s advice, I used a red thread and I really love the contrast it gave. Thanks for the idea, Andrea!

Adding the Ricrac…

I thought long and hard about how to sew the ricrac to my quilt. I didn’t just want a seam down the middle, because then the raw edges at the top of the prairie points would be exposed. So I came up with a zigzag stipple and it worked just fine.

1. I set my machine to a long zigzag stitch…

2. I practiced a little with a back and forth stipple…

3. …and jumped in. I took my ricrac, let it hang over the edge of the quilt a little to ensure that it would be caught in my borders, and then stipple quilted it on. I really took my time to try to unsure that the stippling covered the ricrac well. I didn’t pin, but curved the ricrac as I went to follow the top of the prairie point flags.

4. Trim overhanging ricrac after it’s all sewn on.

Cut your border fabric into 2 1/2″ strips and sew on with 1/4″ seams, pressing towards the body of the quilt so your seams don’t show through the white.

Layer your quilt top with batting and backing. I used Warm and Natural batting, and pieced a center seam to make the backing fabric the correct size.

Quilt as you like. I stipple quilted on all the squares, avoiding the prairie points and ricrac. I also did two lines of straight line quilting… one in the border ditch with white thread, and another outside that one in red thread to match the detail on the prairie points.

Add the binding{my favorite part of quilting}…

At this point my quilt is unwashed but I’m looking forward to enjoying the vintage-ish crinkle when it comes out of the dryer.

Now where did that kitten get to? It’s time for a cuddle…


Grandma’s {Playtime} Buntings Quilt measures about 60″ square.

Kimberly Friesen
{mybrownbagstudio.com}

Four Squared Quilt

four square cover



Hello, again from northern Virginia!  I’m Polly from Aunt Polly’s Porch, with a fun and fast quilt just in time to put out for spring! I used the bright and graphic “Half Moon Modern” collection from Moda!


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one jelly roll
one charm pack
2 yards coordinating solid fabric
4 yards backing
1/2 yard for binding
batting


From coordinating yardage, cut 19 strips 2 1/2” by width of fabric

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Sub-cut 12 of those strips into 8 1/2” pieces (56 for quilt)

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Sub-cut the remaining 7 strips into 4 1/2” pieces (56 for quilt)

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Sort jelly roll strips into groups of 4 strips of different colors/values.

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Sew the 4 strips together and press seams to one side or open, your choice!
Repeat this with all the groups of four strips.

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Sub-cut each strip set into 2 1/2” pieces.

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Mix up the pieces and sew 4 of these strips together to create a 16 patch block.
Repeat to make 28 of these 16 patch blocks.

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Next, select 14 of the charm squares and trim them to 4  1/2” square.

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Take the other charm squares and cut them in half.

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Sort these 2  1/2” by 5” halves into pairs and sew them together on the long sides.
Don’t press the seams at this point!  Leave them closed!

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Cut this unit in half.  Don’t press seams now, either!

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Match up 2 of these half units mixing colors/values and sew together, making 28 four patches.

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Make sure the seam allowances are flipped to different sides so that center seam lines up perfectly.
(This is why we didn’t press those seams earlier!)  Now we know which way to press those seams!!

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Sew one 4  1/2” coordinating solid strip to opposite sides of the 4  1/2” charms squares,

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and also to opposite sides of the four patches.  Press seams toward solid strips.

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Next, sew one 8 1/2” strip to opposite sides of these units and press seams to solid strips.

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Arrange blocks into 8 blocks across by 7 blocks down. 
Alternate 16 patch blocks by solid surround blocks.

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Alternate the single center square blocks with the
four patch center blocks between the 16 patch blocks,
or place them completely randomly!

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Sew the blocks together across each row, then sew the rows together.

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Press the top well, then layer with your batting and backing!

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Quilt as desired!  I free-motioned a simple meander all over!

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From the binding fabric, cut six strips 2  1/2” by width of fabric.

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Sew the strips together with your favorite method, then fold in half and press!

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Sew the binding onto the front side of the quilt edges by machine,
then flip and sew down by hand.

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Don’t forget the label!!  The quilt is all done!!

Now…what to do with the leftover blocks???

I have 12 leftover four patches and enough leftover white to
add the white surround to finish those blocks and 12 leftover
sixteen patch blocks!

You could make the above quilt larger if you wanted to,
but I decided to take eight of each block and using the
same alternating design,

make a long skinny quilt that can be used as a bed runner
or a table runner.  I had just enough of the backing green
and white print to put on the back of the runner, too.
And I used white scraps to bind it!

After that, I had 4 of each block left, so I again
used the same alternating design and sewed them
together make two 16″square  pillows.

I actually like the bed runner and pillows
using the back side, too!!

one luscious quilt,  65” by 57″

two 16″ square throw pillows

one 16″ by 80″ table or bed runner

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Yogi and I can’t wait for you to come visit our blog!!  Smile

Polly Monica
{auntpollysporch.blogspot.com}

All Purpose Caddy

caddy 92

Hello Everyone! It’s me, Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Quilting and Designs and I could not be more thrilled to introduce to you today my All Purpose Caddy. Why??? Because I absolutely love how it all turned out. Not to mention that this caddy was originally designed with long term hospital patients in mind. I will get more into that story on my blog. What is so great about this caddy is that it can be used for anyone and it has a wonderful bonus for any stitching crafter in mind. The removable Sand Pouch will not only keep the caddy in place it will also keep your pins sharp too! Got to love that! Another thing to love about this caddy is the pocket space. The front pocket has four slots to keep small electronic devices, eyeglasses or small stitchery items. The second pocket has two slots for note pads and what not. Lastly the third pocket is just one big opening for whatever you need. I happen to put my sketch book and Moda Bake Shop’s Fresh Fabric Treats book in there! Pretty neat right?! Did I also mention that this tutorial is written for ambitious beginner and up? Well it is! So give it a go and have fun!

caddy 3
  • One Charm pack – Reunion by Sweetwater
  • 2 yards of  #5476-13 -Reunion collection by Sweetwater
  • 1/2 yard of Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip
  • Foundation paper for paper piecing
  • Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding
  • A small funnel
  • Children’s play sand
  • Painter’s tape
  • Safety pins
  • Marking tools
  • Batting and thread


Nothing fancy just patience and understanding.

This tutorial is very picture heavy. Plus it is also a quilt as you go project.


Cutting Directions:

From the Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip, you will need to cut the material 18 inches x 4 1/2 inches

From the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding, measure and cut 3 pieces 18 inches long.

From the 2 yards of fabric you will need:

1- 7 1/2 inch x wof for the first pocket backing and second pocket front
2- 11 1/2 inch x wof for the second pocket backing and the third pocket’s front and back.
Each of these cuts will be needed to be cut on to the fold line for each individual pocket piece. 

For the Main piece you will need to cut 21 inches x wof. You will then measure 4 1/2 inch away from the fold line. Cut lengthwise and save the folded piece. You will need this for later on in the project.

What you will have remaining is two 16 1/2 inches x 17 inches (ignore the photo on the 17 1/2 inch) pieces for you main piece. Refer to photo below for a visual.

Binding will need to be cut 3 inches wide instead of the normal 2 1/2 inches. Binding will also need to be 70 inches long.

caddy collage 13

This photo below is a reference of all the pieces you will need before the final assembly.

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Let’s Begin!

*All photos go from left to right and top to bottom. Refer to all photos below the instructions for a better understanding of this project.

All seams are 1/4 inch unless indicated!

  • Print out both paper-piecing sets x 2 and cut out the paper piecing templates. Set aside. You will have two different set sizes from the printable version of this pattern. Sizes are: 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch and 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch Make sure you are using the paper foundation for all the paper piecing.
  • Open your charm pack and separate into like colorways. Choose 20 different charm squares of your choosing.
  • Take all 20 charm squares and cut them into 1 1/2 inch strips. Then organize them so they will be easy to coordinate while you assemble your paper piecing.
  • Bring back your cut out paper pieces and start coordinating your 1 1/2 inch strips onto the paper pieces. *Any paper pieces with the HST/HSR markings on them will need to be placed face down. Do not piece the 1 1/2 inch strips on the HST/HSR marked side.
  • Organize the rest of the 1 1/2 inch on the remaining paper pieces to your liking.
  • When finished organizing with all the paper pieces, you will need to gather 17- 1 1/2 inch strips that remain from your all ready cut charm squares. Sew them together lengthwise and press seams as you go. This will not have to be paper pieced!  When finished stitching this together you should have a 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch piece. This is your topside to the main piece of the caddy.
caddy collage 1

Paper Piecing:

This will be done for all of your prearranged strips that are on your paper foundations that you already have organized.

  • Place the first strip on the end of your foundation piece.
  • Take the second strip and place it on top of the first strip, right sides together.
  • Stitch on the inside of the paper piece.
  • After stitching open and press.
  • Add the next 1 1/2 inch strip and place it on top of the second 1 1/2 inch strip, again right side together and stitch along the inside. Open and press.
  • Repeat the following for all your paper piecing.
caddy collage 2

Half Square Rectangle (HSR) Assembly
Example shown is the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR.

  • You will need a plain HSR back and a marked HSR piece of your choosing.
  •  With right sides together, leave the plain HSR face up and place the marked HSR from corner to corner
  • Stitch on each of the outer marked lines
  • Cut the center with a rotary cutter or scissors
  • You should have two HSR
  • Open and press
  • Repeat the process for all your HSR’s
caddy collage 3

HSR Line up Assembly

Again using the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR as an example.

  • Align the coordinating HSR’s to your liking
  • Stitch on the length sides
  • Check your work!
  • Remove the paper piecing
  • Repeat the same process for the 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR’s
caddy collage 4

*Something that I did not have pictured is the piecing of the second pocket. Make sure you take the 3 1/2 inch x 17 inch HSR strip and sew it to the length of one of the 7 1/2 x wof pieces. Make sure right sides are together before stitching.

The Quilting Process

You will need all material pieces for Pockets #1, #2, and #3. You will also need the 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch Top Side strip, painter’s tape, safety pins, batting, and some kind of marking tool. *I use a Strait Line tool aka: a chalk line.

  • Match the front pocket to the remaining 7 1/2 inch x wof
  • Take one of the 11 1/2 inch piece for the backing of the second pocket
  • Take two 11 1/2 inch pieces for the third pocket
  • Use the remaining 11 1/2 inch piece for the top side piece.

Step One: Basting 

Example is of Pocket 1. 

  • Take the backing and place it onto a smooth clean surface.
  • Grab the painter’s tape and place a piece on each corner of the backing. Make sure to stretch the material just slightly from one corner to the other for full smoothness of the material.
  • Place the batting over the backing.
  • Grab the painter’s tape again and place a piece of painter’s tape onto each corner. Again make sure to stretch the batting just slightly from one corner to the other for smoothness and full usage of the batting.
  • Place the pocket top piece on top of the batting.
  • Pin all three piece together with the safety pins
  • When finished pinning remove the painter’s tape from the batting and backing. 
  • Set piece a side and repeat the process for the remaining pockets. 

caddy collage 5

Step Two: Marking and Quilting:

Example is of Pocket 2 and the top side piece. 

The way I mark my quilts for quilting is by using a Strait Line tool that can be found in any hardware store.

  • I open up the Strait Line by pulling the hook and string/line and place it to something that it can catch on to. I then find a heavy object to place on top of the hook.
  • I then take the Strait Line and line it up in the center of my quilt top as evenly possible for a straight line marking.
  • Once the line is centered, I then take the Strait Line housing and pull slightly so that the line its self is tight. I then lift up the line and let it snap onto the material. By doing this you will have a marking line to start your straight quilting.  You will only need to do this one time on each piece.
  • To start quilting: Make sure that you have your walking foot on and line up your Strait Line mark to your needle. Start stitching from one side to the other.
  • To continue quilting, line up your walking foot to the last stitched line and use it as your guide for your next quilted straight line. Repeat this process until you reach the edge of the quilt top.
  • Since I start my quilting from the center of my quilt top. I will quilt one side and then start on the other. I do not alternate sides. I just simply roll my piece for easy flow through my machine.
  • Once done with all the quilting to this point square pockets and top side off. All pieces should be 17 inches wide. You will have one more piece to quilt before you are done.
caddy collage 6

Top Side and Main Piece Assembly

You will need the 4 1/2 inch x 18 inch grip stop piece, the top side piece, and the two 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces. You will also need painter’s tape, batting and safety pins.

Step One: The Grip Stop and Top Side

  • Take the grip stop piece and measure width wise to 13 inches. Cut at 13 inches on the length. This should give you a 13 in piece and a 5 inch piece.
  • On the length side of each piece fold over one time 1/4 of an inch and pin.
  •  Stitch a 1/4 inch seam across the folded edges. Remove pins as you go. *Best to keep the gripper side up and to use your walking foot.
  • Take your quilted top side and place it back side up. Place the 5 inch grip stop on top of the topside, gripper side facing up. Then place the 13 inch grip stop on top of the top side, again gripper side facing up. Make sure that both of the 1/4 inch seams are over lapping each other.
  • Stitch width wise on one side of the entire piece, remove pins as you go. Open and keep one pin in to maintain the 1/4 inch edges together.  
caddy collage 7
Step Two: Attaching the Top Side to the Main Piece 
  • With your open Top Side, place one of the 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces on top of each side, pin and stitch. Make sure that you are stitching with the width of the 17 inches to both sides (the grip stop side and the quilted top side).  
  • After stitching both pieces together fold the over the top side and main piece so that they are one piece.
  • Stitch along the bottom of the top side. This creates the pocket opening for the sand pouch.
  • Prepare main piece for quilting. Repeat the same process as for the pockets. With the exception of starting your quilting guide from the seams (bottom) of the Top Side, stitch and work your way down to the end.
caddy collage 8

Sand Pouch Assembly

You will need the folded  4 1/2 inch x 17 inch cut away piece that you cut from the main piece. *Make sure you backstitch all your stitches on this piece!

  • Make sure the right side of the fabric is folded together so that you see the wrong side of the fabric when you start stitching.
  • Start at the fold and stitch starting length wise about 1 1/2 inch and then stop.
  • Lift up your foot and needle, move the piece down to make a 1 inch opening. Place needle and foot back down and continue to start stitching.
  • When you get to a corner lift your foot up pivot the piece. Then lift your foot down and continue stitching. Repeat for the process for the next corner.
  • Clip all four corners.
  • Turn the sand pouch with the right side of the fabric facing out.
  • Then take a thin rod and gently poke out the corners for pointed edges/corners. (I realize that the photos are switched around in this process. My apologies!)
  • Take a small funnel and place it in the 1 in opening.
  • Hold funnel and pouch while pouring sand into the funnel.
  • Fill the pouch half way to 3/4 full. But do not fill it all the way. The sand pouch will not fit into the top side if it is completely full. Plus you have to close the opening. 
  • You can either hand stitch the opening or machine stitch the opening. If machine stitching use a zig zag stitch on the opening edge of the sand pouch.
  • Since sand can hold moisture, place the sand pouch in a warm dry area of your living space. This will take a couple of days to dry.
caddy collage 9

Adding the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding

You will need the 3 – 18 inch cut Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding for Pockets #1, #2, and #3.

  • Add the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding to the top of each pocket.
  • Bind as you normally would bind you entire quilt.
  • If you have never used Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding before you can refer to my tutorial page on my blog.
  • Clip off the excess ends of the binding.
caddy collage 10

Pocket Assembly

Make sure that all pockets are lined up at the bottom before stitching!

  • Take Pocket #1 and place it on top of Pocket #2. Pin pockets together.
  • Stitch in the ditch of the first seam and the third seam of Pocket #1.  Do not exceed past the binding and make sure to back stitch at the binding.
  • Take the stitched together Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 and place that on top of Pocket #3. Pin pockets together.
  • Stitch in the ditch of the second seam of Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 aka: the middle. Stop at Pocket #2’s binding and back stitch.
  • Place the completed stitched pockets and place them on top of the main piece and pin. Make sure the pockets line up on the bottom of the main piece and the main piece and top side are facing right side up.
caddy collage 11

 

Finishing Touches

  • Bind the entire caddy together (I opted out on machine stitching the entire caddy).
  • Place the dried Sand Pouch through the opening of the Grip Stop.
  • Once Sand Pouch is tucked into place distribute the sand in the pouch evenly for better support. 
This is what your finished caddy should look like when you are done.

caddy collage 12

In the end you will have a caddy that has great pocket space and can be placed nearly any where in the home. Not to mention it can hold a fair amount of weight too. It is also a nice must have for long term hospital patients who do not have a ton of room to keep small things stashed away in. Or better yet with the use of the sand pouch as a pincushion you can use it too.

caddy 92

One All Purpose Caddy that measures 20 inches x 17 inches.

If you have any questions or concerns please email me or refer to my blog where I have tutorials, helpful hints, and of course a design blunders page.

Thanks all and I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

c

Jennifer Overstreet
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