Patchwork Pot Holder



Hi everyone! My name is Hilary and I blog over at Young Texan Mama. I am really excited about sharing my first project with you over here at the Moda Bake Shop. I love working with pre-cuts and this is a simple and quick project that uses the adorable Moda Mini Charm Packs.

1 – Moda Candy Mini Charm Pack
2 – Fat Quarters
1 – 6.5″ x 6.5″ piece of cotton batting
2 – 6.5″ x 8″ piece of cotton batting
         or
1 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ piece of batting & 1 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ piece of Insul-Bright batting

Cutting:
Out of one Fat Quarter cut the following:
2 – 6.5″ sqaures
1 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle

Out of your 2nd fat quarter:
3 – 2.25″ x 22″ strips (they don’t have to be exactly 22″ just cut them from the long side of your fat quarter).

Step 1: Select 9 mini charms to be the main panel of your pot holder, and 3 mini charms to be the accent of the larger piece.

Stitch the 9 minis into 3 rows of 3. I like to chain piece my squares over sewing one at at time.

Press your seams in alternating directions, then sew the 3 rows into a 9 patch block. I like to press the seams between the rows open to reduce the bulk. You’ll be left with a 6.5″ square.

Step 2: Take your 3 remaining minis and sew into a row of 3. Press your seams in one direction, you’ll be left with a 2.5″ x 6.5″ strip. Sew this strip to one of your 6.5″ squares of fabric from your FQ.

Step 3: Using your 9 patch block, a piece of 6.5″ batting, and the remaining 6.5″ fabric square, make a quilt sandwich & quilt as desired.

 I like to baste the layers together with a couple of safety pins to keep the layers from shifting while quilting.

I quilted my piece with diagonal lines through the points of the squares, but you can quilt it however you want. I think it would look cute with loops or an all over meander. 

Step 4: Take your pieced 6.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle, your 2 – 6.5″ x 8.5″ pieces of batting (or Insul-Bright), and your 6.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle. Sandwich the 4 layers together, baste  with safety pins, and quilt. I used 2 pieces of cotton batting for the interior of my pot holder.

I’ve never had problems with 2 layers of cotton batting not being enough insulation, but if your worried, then a layer of Insul-bright would definitely protect your hand from heat. 

Step 5: Sew your 3 binding strips together, end to end, so you end up with on long strip. Press the seams open to reduce the bulk. Fold binding in half, wrong sides together, and press. Cut a 4 inch piece of binding for your loop, and cut a 6.5 inch piece of binding for the top of your square panel.

Take the 6.5 inch strip and sew it to the top edge of the main panel with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Once sewn, fold it around to the back and stitch in place. I like to machine bind mine, but if you prefer you can hand stitch it down.

This is what your main piece will look like when you’re finished. Set it aside. 

Step 6: With your mini charms facing up, baste your 2 panels together with a 1/8″ seam allowance. That will prevent shifting when you sew your binding on. Sew slowly because you’ll be sewing through several layers of fabric.

Take the 4.5″ piece and fold the ends to the center and press, creating a double fold binding. Sew along the open long edge to close it together. 

Pin and baste the loop you just created to the back of the 6.5″ x 8.5″ quilted panel. 

Step 7: Take the remainder of your binding and stitch it to your potholder with 1/4″ seam allowance. Again, sew slowly because you will be sewing through several layers of fabric. A walking foot might be beneficial for this step. 

When you get to the loop, make sure it is laying flat on the back of the pot holder. 

Step 8:  When you get back around to your starting point, make sure you have enough binding so that the 2 edges overlap about 3/4″. (I had already trimmed out the remainder of my binding at this point.)

Fold over the raw edge of one strip, and then tuck the other one inside. That way when you sew it together there are no raw edges showing. Fold the edges flat and continue sewing your seam, making sure to back-stitch where you started.

Step 9:  Once it is stitched down, fold binding to the back and pin or clip in place. If you pin, try not to sew over your pins because it could break your needle and mess up your machine. I learned that the hard way when I first learned how to sew.

Again when you get to the loop, make sure it is laying flat.When you get back around to your starting point back-stitch to secure the stitches, and you’re done!

When you’re finished you are left with 1 super adorable pot holder to spice up your kitchen!   
There are enough mini charms in a pack to make 3 pot holders, but you’ll need more of your other materials. 
I hope you enjoy making this pot holder as much as I did, and if you make it I’d love for you to share it to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group. Thanks so much for stopping by!

Hilary Smith
{www.youngtexanmama.com}

Q&A with Oda May: Fat Quarter Folding

Click through for two folding methods from Oda May.

Dear Oda May,

This might sound like a silly question but I’ve recently started organizing my fabric stash and I wondered…how do other people fold their fat quarters? I can’t seem to get them to look tidy and pretty the way I see so many on Pinterest.

Floundering in Fat Quarters

Dear Floundering,

There is never a silly question when it comes to fabric!  Fat quarter folding is one of my favorite ways to relax so I can definitely help you out with a few different ways to fold them.

First….the Moda way! This is how the fat quarters are folded in our beautiful bundles. No raw edges show with this folding method.

Second…a slightly smaller fold.

Here are the two stacked up so you can see the size comparison.

Hope this helps you keep things tidy! Readers, do you have any favorite folding methods?

Fair Isle Baby Quilt and Crib Bedding


Leah Douglas from Buggspot again! I am SO EXCITED to share this with you. There are lots of tutorials out there on the web for making your own nursery bedding, but I think this one is the best. 😉

This is a tutorial in THREE PARTS. First up is a fair isle style imitation baby quilt using solids and a very thin soft fleece for the backing, sure to entrance the eyes and be snuggled up to by your newest arrival. Second is the chevron crib skirt, with one pleat in the center of each long side, as well as a matching customized breathable bumper (my *favorite* kind of crib bumper because it won’t suffocate any little guys who aren’t yet strong enough to move their heads if they get smothered AND because it keeps all arms and legs safely inside the crib and safe from becoming stuck or caught…I guess that was a big issue for my kids for some reason!). Third is the crib sheet!

Fair Isle Quilt Tutorial


1 Fat Quarter (FQ from here on out) of Amelia Orange
1 FQ Goldenrod Yellow
2 FQ Pistachio Green
1 FQ Green (the darker green)
1 FQ Turquoise
1/2 yd. White
1 yd. 60″ wide Fireside Pale Grey (the super soft stuff; this way we skip the batting)
1/3 yd. binding (OR you should have enough of the soft fleece leftover from the backing to skip this if you want)
white thread


When cutting these fat quarters into strips, always cut so that the strip ends up being 22″ long and not 18″ long.

If you weren’t able to find fat quarters, you can use regular cuts of fabric. Your instructions will be in {brackets}. If using FQs then just ignore the {brackets}!

From Orange cut: 3 FQ strips 2″ wide {that’s 2 strips of a full length cut if you are not using Fat Quarters}
From Yellow cut: 7 FQ strips 2″ wide {4 full length}
     Cut a 2″ square off the end of one of these strips. Save this. Don’t set it somewhere to be lost! 😉
From Lighter Green cut: 10 FQ strips 2″ wide {5 full length}
     From these strips cut:
          2 rectangles 8″ x 2″
          5 rectangles 11″ x 2″
          11 squares 2″ x 2″
          save 4 FQ strips {or save 2 1/2 strips full length}
From Darker Green cut: 6 FQ strips 2″ wide {3 full length}
     From these strips cut:
          6 squares 2″ x 2″
          4 rectangles 8″ x 2″
          10 rectangles 5″ x 2″
From Turquoise cut: 3 FQ strips 2″ wide {2 full length}
     From these strips cut:
          8 squares 2″ x 2″
          12 rectangles 3 1/2″ x 2″
From White cut: 7 full length strips 2″ wide
     From these strips cut:
          10 rectangles 3 1/2″ x 2″
          49 squares 2″ x 2″
          5 rectangles 5″ x 2″
          2 half-strips (just cut one full strip in half)
          save 2 full strips

BE SURE ALL YOUR SEAMS ARE 1/4″ WIDE! Be precise.
Also, always press towards the darker colored fabric whenever possible.

Sew a yellow FQ strip to a light green FQ strip (long side to long side). Press.

Sew a yellow FQ strip to a half-strip of white. Press.

Sew an orange FQ strip to a half-strip of white. Press.

Cut 9 of these from the yellow and light green:

Cut 9 of them from the yellow and white and then 9 from the orange and white. 

Sew the light green and yellow rectangles that you just made to the white rectangles 3 1/2″ x 2″ with WHITE on each end. Press.

Sew 3 yellow FQ strips into one long strip with a diagonal seam. A diagonal seam works like this (I know it’s not yellow, just pretend):

Sew this long yellow strip to the yellow side of the row you just created above. Press toward the yellow strip. Trim ends and square them to the rest of the row. 

Sew remaining light green FQ strips end to end into one long strip like you did with the yellow. Sew alongside a full length white strip. Press and trim ends. Sew remaining light green strip to the other side of the white strip. Press and trim.

Sew your two rows together:

Using 6 white 2″ squares, 4 light green rectangles 11″ x 2″, and 4 light green 2″ squares make TWO of these rows:

Using 9 white 2″ squares, 2 white rectangles 5″ x 2″, and your remaining light green pieces, sew the following:
Using all your turquoise pieces, 16 white 2″ squares, and 3 white rectangles 5″ x 2″, sew the following:

Sew yellow and white blocks from way earlier end to end starting with yellow and adding that additional yellow square onto the other end (so yellow is on each end of the long row). 

Sew yellow FQ strips end to end into 1 long strip. Cut in half. Sew to each side of a full length white strip. Then add the yellow and white strip from the previous step:

Sew orange and white blocks from way earlier end to end starting with white and adding an additional white square onto the other end (so white is on each end of the long row).

Sew remaining 2 orange FQ strips together (with diagonal seam again). Sew this strip to the orange and white row from the previous step:
Sew your rows together like this and you’re done with the quilt top! Use your fuzzy soft material as your backing and if you live in Texas, feel free to skip the batting altogether. I also used the fuzzy stuff for the binding, because I know my babies would love the quilt that much more if the edges were soft on their cheeks too. 


29″ x 36″ finished baby quilt

Crib Skirt and Bumper Trim


3 1/2 yds. Half Moon Modern Zig Zag Steel
1 1/2 yds. White
a set of breathable bumpers in White

First let’s concentrate on the crib skirt. BE SURE YOUR ZIG ZAGS WILL ALL BE GOING THE SAME DIRECTION AROUND THE CRIB.
You need to cut 2 rectangles from the Zig Zag fabric: 17″ x 62″
And 2 more rectangles from the same zig zag: 17″ x 30″

You should have lots of looooong scraps leftover after cutting these panels. SAVE THEM for the bumpers. They will all be going the same direction as the chevrons in your skirt, which is definitely desirable. Just set them aside. 
Also cut a white rectangle measuring 28 1/2″ x 52 1/2″.
Turn in the vertical edges (the edges measuring 17″) of all 4 of your zig zag rectangles 1/2″ and press:
And again, fold over 1/2″ to create a double fold. Press.

Now create a 1 1/4″ double fold along the bottom of your 4 rectangles and press. When unfolded, your corners should look like this:

To miter the corners, fold the corner up like this and gently press (this doesn’t have to be super precise):

Then press your double folds back in place. You should end up with nor raw edges showing.

Sew just under a 1/2″ seam down one vertical side until you come to where the bottom is folded up. See these next two pictures:

Just keep that vertical stitch going until you’ve come one or two stitches onto that bottom double-fold. Backstitch before cutting your thread. Then, using the above picture as a guide, start to sew (Backstitch first!!) from the edge of your bottom double-fold. Sew across and backstitch when you come to the end. Then start the next vertical side as seen below (backstitch first!) and sew until you come to the unfinished top edge:

Do as above for all 4 panels/rectangles.
Now to make a pleat in the center of each long panel. Find the very center of your panel and use a pin to mark it on the unfinished edge. Then measure 4″ out on either side and mark with two more pins:

Bring these pins in to the center pin:

Pin everything in place as smooth and straight as possible. Repeat for second long panel. 

Time to sew the panels to the big white rectangle. I used my serger, but if you don’t have a serger, feel free to use a tight zig-zag stitch. The bedskirt is not something that should be going through the wash nearly as often as the sheet or quilt, so this doesn’t have to be quite as durable. But if you *do* have a serger, go ahead and pull it out for this. 
Pick a panel and match it to a side of the white rectangle. You should have about a 1/4″ of white sticking out on either side, and this is GOOD. Pin it all in place and sew together. Repeat for the opposite side as well.

Do the same for the other two ends. 

Your corners should end up like this:

It’s a pleated crib skirt! 

Back to your previously set aside strips for the breathable bumper customization. Cut these strips to 3″ wide. You will need about 420″ total in length, which means you probably still don’t have enough. So using the remaining unused chevron fabric, cut more 3″ wide strips. BE SURE TO CUT THEM THE SAME DIRECTION AS YOUR OTHER STRIPS. If you’re not using stripes or chevrons, this won’t matter, but if you *are*, be sure not to mess this up!!

To be more specific, I still needed 290″ more in length. Using a 21″ cut of fabric, and cutting these strips *horizontally*, I came up with 14 strips 3″ wide to give me the amount I needed.

Using a diagonal seam (as demonstrated above in the quilt section), sew these strips together until you’ve come up with:
   2 lengths 120″
   2 lengths 88″
Press them all flat, with open seams. Then fold over and press the long edges 1/2″ on each side all the way down. Then press in half all the way down. You’ve just created a kind of binding, right? 🙂
Now pull out your fresh package of breathable bumpers. I got mine on Amazon. I’ve had two babies and I LOVE these “bumpers”. 

This part is going to be tedious. You need to carefully remove all the velcro and save it for later. Note that there are longer and shorter pieces and remember as best you can which pieces generally went where. It’s not too hard. 

After removing the velcro, it will look like this. Don’t worry. 

Using your chevron binding created above, sew it over the top of the satin already on the bumpers. First, you’re going to fold the edge under about 1/2″. Press. Line up this fresh fold with the very edge of the bumper. I suggest setting your machine for a thicker setting. On my ancient machine (it’s older than I am!) it looks like this. This isn’t a huge deal, but if you’re having trouble with your binding becoming stretched or pulling funny, this will certainly help.
Backstitch at the beginning before you get going and then sew along:

Stop in place a couple inches before the end of the bumper:

Cut the “binding” about 1/2″ beyond where the bumper ends. 

Finger press it under and then sew to the end, backstitching those last couple stitches in place.

Do this for all horizontal sides of your breathable bumpers! Reattach Velcro strips in the correct spots. Wasn’t that easy? 


One crib skirt and one set of breathable bumpers for a standard crib measuring 28″ x 53″

Crib Sheet
I know it’s hard to cough up the money for fabric that is 108″ or 60″ wide, but trust me, it’s worth it. I’ve had two babies and made some of their bedding, obviously, but the homemade sheets using regular width fabric only barely covered the mattress and because it was stretched so much, it looks worse for the wear. Go ahead and buy this nice fabric. You won’t regret it after it’s been pooped, spit up, and peed on and through the wash literally hundreds of times and it *still* holds up great. Honestly, if I were you, I’d make *two* of these sheets.

1 1/3 yds. 108″ Dottie Quilt Backs Steel (or you could get 2 yds. of 60″ wide fabric)
70″ of 1/4″ wide elastic

Cut yourself a rectangle measuring 47″ by 72″.

Make sure those edges and corners are all parallel and square.

Cut out 10″ squares from all 4 corners of your large rectangle. 

You should have this:

Now fold those funky corners like this, WRONG SIDES TOGETHER:

Pin in place.

Sew a very scant 1/4″ seam. Or if you prefer, sew it at a regular 1/4″ and then go back and trim the seam smaller.Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam. 

Flip it inside out and then pin again:

Sew a 1/4″ seam (backstitch at beginning and end). 

Congrats, you just made a French Seam! Do this for all 4 corners. 

Now for the elastic casing. Measure and press a 3/8″ seam. 

Make a double fold by measuring and pressing in 3/8″ again. 

Starting with a good backstitch, sew all the way around the sheet UNTIL you come about 3″ from where you started. Backstitch.

You should have an opening in your elastic casing like this:

Using a safety pin at the end of your elastic piece, thread the elastic through the casing, being sure not to pull the other end all the way into the casing too. 

Once you’ve gone through the whole thing, pin the ends together. 
I used a zig zag stitch down and back and down again to be sure that elastic wasn’t gonna go anywhere. 

And I forgot to take a picture of sewing up those last three inches in the casing, but if you made it this far, you can figure that out. 😉


One crib sheet for a standard crib measuring 28″ x 53″

Look what we just made! Isn’t it fantastic??!!

A note from Oda May: The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends against using padded bumpers in cribs. Please consult with your doctor and the latest AAP guidelines when choosing bedding for your infant.

Owl Pocket Pillow



Hello again my dear friends!! I know it’s been a while since I have posted here but I am back and I am very excited to bring you this adorable little project!! If you don’t know me, I am KarrieLyne Winters and I am owner/designer of Freckled Whimsy. I’d love it if you stopped by to say hello! 🙂

Are you ready to make oodles and oodles of these pocket owls??!! They are a bit addicting… so there you have your warning! Heehee!

Ok, on to fabrics… For my tutorial I used Sweet Serenade by Basic Grey.  I would also encourage you to pilfer through your scraps and come up with some lovely combinations, such as maybe a quilt as you go version for the pocket. I think that’d be super cute!

Grab those fabrics and let’s make some owls!

1/2 yard cuts for the body
1 Fat quarter for the front pocket
1 Fat quarter for the back pocket
Scraps for the wings, eyes, and nose
Iron on adhesive that is paper backed, such as Heat’n Bond for face pieces
Your favorite craft stuffing

**Light to Medium weight fusible interfacing ( 3 yards) ** — This is optional. If you are making these for kids who will bury them in the sand box or use them for pillow fights, I suggest using this as a stabilizer to help support the cotton fabric.  If you are only using them for decoration, you will not need the stabilizer. A good Medium weight is Pellon 93TD.

1.  Print out the PDF that has the templates.  Be sure not to reduce the size. Print at 100% and check your 1″ square against a ruler to ensure its truly 1″.  If it is not, check your printer settings.

2. Pages 1-4 is the body of the owl. Cut out each piece and tape together making sure to match up outer edges. Don’t worry if inner lines don’t line up right on.

3.  Using the 1/2 yard cut, keep wrong sides together and lay the body template on the fabric. Pin around the edges and using a rotary cutter or scissors, cut out the pattern.  Unpin. You will have a front piece and a back piece.  Set aside.

4.  If you are using interfacing, repeat step 3.  You will then need to trim 1/2″ away from the edge all the way around. If you don’t, your edges will not fray. Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the body pieces following the manufacturers instructions. Be sure to center the interfacing before ironing it down.

5.  Next, cut out and tape the front pocket and back pocket pieces together.

6.  For each pocket you will need a fat quarter.  Take each fat quarter and fold it in half, wrong sides together and press. Lay the pocket templates on the fabric lining up the fold marks on the template with the fold on the fabric.  Pin in place and cut around sides. Do NOT cut the fold and keep the pocket folded.

7.  Repeat for interfacing if you are using it.  Make sure you trim 1/2″ around this piece too, only don’t  cut the fold. Center on the wrong side of the fabric of each pocket, iron down per manufactures instructions.

8.  Cut out the wing template and cut from fabric. I used a different fabric for each wing.  Feel free to do this or use the same fabric.

9.  Take one owl body piece and lay the front pocket on top lining up the edges.  Lay the wings down, also matching up the edges. They will match up, just move along the edge until it lines up. Pin all 3 pieces in place.

10.  Sew 1/2″ around the edge of each wing going through all layers (wing, pocket, owl body).

11.  Cut out face pieces. Trace both eye pieces, two of each, and beak on the paper side of the heat’n bond. Cut out each piece. Do NOT remove paper backing yet. Using the manufacturers instructions, iron the pieces to the fabrics you chose on the WRONG side. Let sit to cool. Cut around pieces to remove excess fabric.  Remove paper backing.

12.  Lay the beak on the front owl piece that has the pocket sewn on.  If you want it centered, fold the body in half to create a guide. Unfold and center beak on this fold mark. Make sure not to put it too close to the top of the head.  You need to leave room to sew the edges at a 1/2″ plus room for rounding edges after stuffing is put in. Use my photo as a general guide. Once you have it where you want it, press in place to activate the glue. Zig zag, or use another decorative stitch, around the edge of the beak. 

13.  Repeat for the “whites” of the eyes using steps in #12 and then for the “pupils” of the eyes.  Experiment here before ironing down.  Change the placement of the pupils for different emotions. 🙂

14.  Take the back owl body piece and the back pocket.  Line up the edges and pin in place along the top and center. Keep pins at least 1″ away from all outer edges.



15.  Lay the back owl body WRONG side up, then lay the front owl body RIGHT side up and pin all layers together.

16.  Starting at the left wing where the stitching begins, 1/2″ seam allowance, take a few stitches, backstitch, and continue sewing around the edge of the owl body keeping a 1/2″ seam allowance. Stop and backstitch when you get to the bottom of the opposite wing.  This leaves the bottom open to allow for stuffing.

17.  Remove all pins and stuff.

18.  Following the same 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch the bottom closed, backstitching at the beginning and end.

19.  Maneuver and squish the owl to distribute the stuffing to your liking.

20.  Here comes the fun part.  Making him scruffy! You can get this look multiple ways. Have your kids throw it around, sleep on it, hug it and squish it and call it George.  It will get there. You can also use a bristle brush to coax the fibers apart. My favorite thing to use is a wire bristle cat brush. Cleaned of course.  Those wires go to work like crazy and your owl will be scruffy in no time.  Just don’t brush too hard if you use one of the wire brushes so you don’t create holes.

One super adorable owl! 😉

Measures about 17″ high and about 13″ wide.

What are you waiting for??? Go make some owls!!

I would love to see the owls you make!! If you use Flickr, you can add the photo to my group HERE. Or just use the hashtag #FreckledWhimsy in any social media. You can also email them to me too!

Thank you so much for looking. I hope you like the project!

Much Love!!!

Karrie Winters
{www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Picnic In The Shade Quilt


Hello, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I am so pleased to be back on the Moda Bake Shop with this latest project.  Picnic In The Shade has now become one of my favorite quilts.  I absolutely adore the PB&J line from Basic Grey (it’s not only pretty on the eyes, it feels amazing as well!)  The names and colors of the fabrics in this line are just too cute (Raspberry Jam, Bag of Chips, Fluffer Nutter, etc.)  My absolute favorite fabric from this line is the beautiful floral called Daisy Mae, it is gorgeous in every colorway.  So whether you decide to picnic on this quilt or put it on your bed, I hope you enjoy my latest design.

16 fat quarters (PB&J fat quarter bundle)
3 1/2 yards background fabric (PB&J Grunge – Picnic)
3/4 yard inner border fabric (PB&J Raspberry Jam – Fluffer Nutter)
1 1/2 yards outer border fabric (PB&J Bag of Chips – Tonal Picnic)
6 yards backing fabric (PB&J Daisy Mae – Picnic)


Block Cutting Instructions:
Select 16 fat quarters and from each one cut the following:

  • 5 – 5 1/2″ squares
  • 8 – 3 1/2″ squares
From background fabric cut the following:
  • 80 – 5 1/2″ squares
  • 128 – 3 1/2″ squares

Border cutting instructions:
Inner border – cut 8 strips 2 1/2″ by WOF
Outer border – cut 8 strips 5″ by WOF (Depending on the width of your fabric selection, you may need to cut 9 strips.  I was able to *JUST* make two strips pieced together work on each of the long sides of the quilt.)

Piecing Instructions:
Pair a background 5 1/2″ square with a print 5 1/2″ square (right sides together) and sew 1/4″ all the way around the squares as shown below.

Now you have 2 squares completely sewn together.  Line up your ruler on the diagonal from the top left corner to the bottom right corner and cut as shown below.

Without moving the fabric, line your ruler up diagonally from the top right to the bottom left corners and cut as shown.

Now you will have four separate “triangles”.

Open each of them up and press towards the background fabric to create four half square triangles (HST).

Repeat this step for all 80 5 1/2″ square sets.  This will result in a total of 320 half square triangles.
Now you need to square up and trim your half square triangles.  Using a small ruler, line up the 45 degree line with the diagonal line in your HST.  And trim/square up to be 3 1/2″.  Using this HST method, I almost always only had to trim off the dog ears from the seams, but you should check them all just to make sure they aren’t off before piecing them into the blocks.
Block layout:
Block A – Using the photo below as a guide, create 2 A blocks (per print fabric) using 8 trimmed 3 1/2″ HST, 8 print 3 1/2″ squares and 2 background 3 1/2″ squares.  You will have a total of 32 A blocks.

Piece each block row and press the seams towards the solid print squares.  Then sew the rows together and press toward the center row as shown below.

Block B – Using the photo below as a guide, create 2 B blocks (per print fabric) using 12 trimmed 3 1/2″ HST and 6 background 3 1/2″ squares.  You will have a total of 32 B blocks.

Piece each block row and press the seams in opposite directions with each row.  Then sew the rows together and press away from the center row as shown below.

Using 63 of your 64 blocks, lay them out in 9 rows of 7 blocks each, alternating between Block A and Block B as shown below.

Sew each row together pressing the seams in the odd numbered rows toward the right and the even numbered rows toward the left.  When sewing your rows together, you can either press all seams up, down or open depending on your preference.

Border Instructions:

  1. To determine the length of your side borders, measure the quilt from top to bottom in three locations (right side, midpoint and left side).  If they are not all the same measurement, then add those numbers together and divide by three to determine the appropriate length for your inner side border.  Using two 2 1/2″ strips of the inner border fabric, piece them together end to end and then trim to match the measurement you determined above.  Do this two times to create your two inner borders and attach them to the right and left sides of the quilt.
  2. Once you have pieced the inner side borders onto the quilt top, repeat the measuring instructions above to determine the appropriate measurements of the top and bottom borders (across the width of the quilt).  Once again, use two 2 1/2″ strips of inner border fabric sewn together end to end and then trimmed to the appropriate length per border.  Sew the top and bottom inner borders to the quilt.
  3. Following the same instructions as above to determine the new length of your outer border.  Using the PB&J line, I only needed two 5″ strips pieced together per side border.  Double check to make sure your fabric selection will be long enough.  If not, then use the 9th strip you created in the cutting instructions above, cut in half and attach one to each side border pieced strip and then trim to the correct measurement.
  4. Using the same method, piece and attach the top and bottom outer borders.

Backing Instructions:
Cut your backing fabric into two 3 yard pieces.  Then sew them together along the selvage edge far enough into the fabric so that the selvage won’t be seen once pieced.  You should end up with a pieced backing that measures approx. 84″ x 108″.

Layer your backing, batting and quilt top and quilt as desired.


One 75″ x 93″ quilt perfect for family picnics or your favorite bed.

Amanda Castor

{Material Girl Quilts}

60-Minute Gift: Christmas Overnighter Cinch Sack



18” X WOF for lining (2 fat quarters in same or coordinating print)
18” X WOF for outside (2 fat quarters in same or coordinating print)
8” X WOF for strap channel  {can be a coordinating fabric}
Ribbon:  8″ X 1/2″
Rope 2– 43″ or longer {you can adjust this length to fit child}
Pre-cut scrap strips in green for tree and brown for trunk



Cutting:
Cut 2 – 18” X  18″  outside fabric  
Cut 2– 18”  X  18″  lining fabric
Cut 2– 4″ X 18″ strap channel
Cut 2– 4″ X width of ribbon
Cut 1/2” X various lengths– green fabric for tree

Rag Christmas Tree:
1)  Cut 3 strips 1/2” X 9” out of green scraps
2)  Fold the front outside piece in half and iron, using this creased iron line to center the tree tip,  pin the 3 strips in the shape of the tree
3)  Cut a brown 2” X 2” square for the trunk of the tree.  Pin in place.
4)  Sew down the center of these strips, and outline stitch the tree trunk
5)  Using the rest of the 1/2” green scrap strips, place on tree and sew down the center – one strip at a time
6)  Overlap additional strips, change their angle, direction to make it interesting
7)  Take a rough toothbrush and dampen the strips and scrub, this will rag the edges just a bit- or scrub with your fingernails. You can snip the edges if you’d like too

Strap Channel:

1)  Cut 2 strips 4” X 17”
2)  Hem both sides (4”) of each strip

3)  Fold in half so they will measure 2”- wrong sides together.  These will be your channels for the ties

Lining:
1)  Pin right sides together both the front and back linings
2)  Sew all the way around the sides and bottom of the bag, leaving a 2 1/2” opening on one side for turning later
Outside:
1)  Fold ribbon in half and stay stitch at bottom of each side of the front outside piece { 1 1/2” from bottom}

2)  Pin right sides together and stitch all the way around the sides and bottom of the bag.
3)  Turn Right sides out and iron
4)  Pin the channels to the top of the bag and stay stitch in place {sew on using 1/8th inch seam allowance so the stitching won’t show} One channel will be sewn to each side

5)  Stuff the outside into the lining, right sides together
6)  Pin along the top edge, matching the side seams
7)  Sew all the way around the top edge
8)  Turn right sides out through opening
9)  Sew opening closed and iron

Rope Strapping

8)  Tie rope to ribbon loop at the bottom of the bag.
9)  Thread through the tube directly above the ribbon loop, going around the whole bag.  The tie will be coming out the same side as it entered

10)  Repeat with rope on the other side of the bag

11)  Pull the rope to cinch the bag at the top


1 super cute cinch sack to Stuff with goodies, games and Christmas jammies!
Finished size:
17″ wide x 20″ long

Have a Merry Christmas Everyone!  Hope your overnighters are full of wonderful surprises!

Becky Jorgensen
{www.facebook.com/patchworkposse}
{patchworkposse.com/blog}

60-Minute Gift: Christmas Gift Bag

Christmas Gift Bag designed by Cathie Richardson of Country Garden Stitchery

~One charm pack of Fa-La-La-La-La by French General
~Three different fat quarters, two red and one natural, by French General
~Low Loft Batting
~Sewing Thread – I used a coordinating variegated red sewing thread.

For the embroidery:

~6″ x 9 1/2″ piece of coordinating quilting fabric for the embroidery design.
~Embroidery pattern (included in PDF print out)
~Three skeins of embroidery floss: one brown, one red, and one green.  I used hand dyed flosses by
The Gentle Art in Sarsaparilla #7015, Raspberry Parfait #0380 and Forest Glade #0190
~#02 Micron black ink pen.
~Tracing method of your choice.

For the embroidery trace the design onto the 6″ x 9 1/2″ piece of fabric using the method of your choice.  You can embroider the design in all one color for a redwork design or change the flosses to your favorite colors!  I will include here how I made the model.   Use two strands of floss except as noted.  Raspberry Parfait and stem stitch for the border lines, the snowman outlines and his hat.  For his face I used one strand of floss and stem stitch for his nose and mouth.  I used very small cross stitches for his eyes.  I alternated one and two strands for the stars in the sky.  For the dots use two-wrap French knots.  Sarsaparilla and back stitch for the lettering.  Stem stitch for the tree trunks.  Forest Glade and stem stitch for the outlines of the Christmas trees.  For the tree decorations Raspberry Parfait and back stitch.   When embroidery design is complete press lightly and trim the design down to 8 1/4″ x 4 3/4″ to where it has a 1″ border.
Use 1/4″ seams throughout.  Select five charm squares and cut five 2″ wide pieces.  Alternate the pieces to red-green-red and sew.  Press. Cut the sewn piece in half.  Select five more and cut 2″ wide pieces.  Alternate pieces to green-red-green and sew.   Press.  Cut sewn piece in half. 
From one of the red fat quarters cut a 2″ x 8 1/4″ strip.  Sew the embroidered design to a red-green-red patchwork strip, then add the solid strip, then a green-red-green patchwork strip.  Press.  From the same fat quarter you cut the strip cut a piece for the back measuring 6 1/2″ x 8 1/4″.  Sew a green-red-green patchwork strip then a red-green-red.  Press. 
From the other red fat quarter cut two 1 1/2″ x 8 1/4″ strips for back and front pieces and sew to the top and the bottom.  Press.  Cut two 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ for each side of front and back and sew.  Press.     
Cut two batting pieces the same size as the front and back and quilt as desired.  I used the variegated red sewing thread and a decorative machine stitch to sew around the edges of the embroidered piece and in between the strips on front and back continuing down the bottom of the back.   
With the third fat quarter cut two pieces the same size as the front and back for the lining.  Sew the outer bag front and back together.  For the lining sew the front and back together leaving a 3″ opening in the middle of the seam on one of the sides for turning.  From one of the red fat quarters cut two handles measuring 3 1/2″ x 18″.  Press the fabric strips in half lengthwise and then press down 1/4″ along the long side.  Sew the pressed edges together with the variegated sewing thread.      
To make the bottom edges turn the outer bag and the lining wrong side out.  Line up the bottom and the side seams on each side of both bag pieces.  Measure in two inches and put a pin in the spot until you have it lined up with the machine needle.  Sew a straight seam making a triangle.  Cut off the triangle pieces leaving 1/4″ of fabric before the seam.   
Turn the outer bag right side out and tuck it inside the lining so the right sides are together and the lining is on the outside.   Place the handles about 1″ from the side seams matching front and back and making sure they aren’t twisted.  Put the handle edges a little bit above the edge of the top of the bag to ensure they are included in the seam.  Pin in place.
Line up seams, edges of lining and outer bag and handles and pin in place.  Sew around the edge making sure to catch the handles.   
Turn bag right side out through the opening.  I always like to check to make sure my handles are secure and all fabrics were included in the seam before I sew up the opening.  Hand sew or machine sew the opening closed after pressing.
With the variegated sewing thread on the top and neutral color for the bobbin thread topstitch around the top of the bag.  Press.

One Snowman Embroidered Christmas Bag
9″  x  10″ x 3″ with 17 1/4″ handles.

Back View
A fun gift bag for the Christmas holiday!  You can adjust the size by adding strips and patchwork pieces.  Fill it with fun things for somone special then it’s useful after they’ve opened their gift! I’d love to see yours too ~ you can contact me with questions or comments through my website or facebook.  Thank you!  
Cathie Richardson