ABC Book and Snail Softie

ABC Book:
Charm Pack – featured Love U by Deb Strain
Love U Panel
Coordinating Thread
Luna Batting – craft size
Fusible Web – featured Pellon Wonder-Under
2 1/8″ Binder Ring
13 Large Eyelets – 1/4″ (6mm) and tool – featured Dritz #659-65
hammer to fasten eyelets

Snail Softie:
Jelly Roll Strips – featured Love U by Deb Strain

Extra small buttons for eyes on snail.

ABC Book…

Select 26 Charm Squares to use as the backing or pages of your ABC book.
Cut out all the letters as close to the inside line as possible from the Love U Panel.
Determine what letters will go with the charm squares you selected. I chose two of the same charm squares to use as my front and back of the book.

Fuse your letter square to a piece of fusible webbing. Remove the paper backing, then fuse the other side to the center of your charm square. Do this for all the letters.

Using coordinating thread, applique your letter to your charm square.

Do this for all the letters.

I chose to change up my stitching for a fun look and to add a bit more texture.

Layer a piece of 5″ x 5″ batting then a charm square right side up, and finally another appliqued charm square right side down. PLEASE BE AWARE: You are working with letters that need to go in alphabetical order, so you need to make sure you are putting the correct letters together.

You should have a total of 13 pages (26 front and back).

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along all four sides leaving a 3-4″ opening so you can turn right side out. Clip the corners before turning for a nice point.

Following the directions on the Eyelet Kit, attach an eyelet to the corner of each page. PLEASE REMEMBER: You are working with letters so make sure your eyelets are in the correct corner for each page to keep your letters in alphabetical order.

Open your Binding Ring and slide through all the eyelets keeping your pages in alphabetical order.

You now have one adorable little ABC book to give as a gift or for your own little ones.

Snail Softie:
Select two Jelly Roll strips.
Hand draw a curved edge at one of the ends of the strip. Match the two strips RST and sew a 1/4″ seam allowance following the curve at one end and leaving the other end open for turning.

Trim off the excess fabric at the curved end. You should be able to cut on your drawn line.

Flip Right Side Out and stuff loosely with stuffing until you reach the end.

At your open end fold the ends in and stitch closed.

Now it’s time to roll him into a snail! Start with your stitched opening end, fold over and stitch it down.

Continue to roll and stitch as you go until you have just a little bit left for the head. I kept all my stitching in the center of the roll so you do not see it from either side.

You can now add little beady eyes if you wish or just leave him plain.

One adorable little Jelly Snail ready to play.

Two Charm Packs will make 3 ABC Books
One Jelly Roll will make 20 Snails.
Angela Yosten

Just One Pack Doll Quilt

Just One Pack Doll Quilt 16in. X 16in.

• 5 inch Charm pack Moda Alliance
• 1 fat quarter Alliance for backing
• scrap batting or flannel X
• 1 pack of 2 inch English Paper Piece Hexagons
• Sewline Glue pen
• tiger tape
• coordinating thread
• basic sewing supplies

• Chose 25 charms from your Alliance pack

• I used the 2 inch pre-made English paper pieces from They are available at your local quilt shop, online or you can cut your own.

• Next I cut 20 charm fabrics about 1/4 inch around the hexagon paper.
• I use Sewline’s glue pen to adhere my fabric while they wait to be pieced together. This is a HUGE time saver.

• This may be difficult to see but I put the glue on the fabric. It is a wash away adhesive.

• Firmly press your fabric to the papers as you go around the hexagons.

• Now the arrangement I did for this quilt also uses half hexagons. Instead of buying another pack of papers for this I cut a regular 2 inch hex in half as shown.
• I was very careful to make sure it was as close to half as possible. You will need 5 half hexagons.

• Again, cut your fabrics 1/4 from the paper edge and glue in place firmly.

• The corners will be trimmed once the quilting is done.

• I layed out my pieces into a pleasing arrangement and then took 2 at a time to sew.

• With Right sides together I whip stitch the edges. I continue to add hexs until you have a top as shown.
• Note the papers are removed before layering. The fabric can be peeled from the paper easily without much distortion. The unsewn edges are basted with a larger stitch to be removed after hand quilting.

• Layer the batting and backing…..

• I hand quilted my doll quilt using 1/4 inch tiger tape as my guide. I am not an expert hand quilter and I tend to do a big stitch. For a doll quilt…this was the effect I wanted.

• Once the hand quilting is complete, I do not bind my quilt in the traditional way.

• Notice that I am folding back the quilt edge to the hand quilting line…

• Trim away the batting to less than an 1/8 of an inch, to reduce bulk.

• Here’s how the edges should look.

•Trim the backing to about 1/4 inch from the quilt top edge as shown.

• Fold the edge in the create a finished edge. Then fold the quilt top up to meet the backing and pin.

• hand whip stitch with a neutral thread and tiny stitches all the way around the quilt edge to finish.

A 16in. X 16in. One Pack Doll Quilt…

I hope you enjoy this tutorial as much as I enjoyed making it. Be sure to visit my blog where I am hosting a challenge giveaway. Make your own One Pack Doll Quilt and post a picture to my Flickr group! I look forward to all the different fabric choices you make! You’ll be amazed how quickly a little doll quilt like this can be completed.

Itty Bitty Poochie Bag

Trick-or-Treat, smell my sheets (sheets of Moda Layer cakes!). Itty bitty little versions of my Poochie Bag pattern. Fast and fun little bags to hold Halloween treats, sweets and goodies. Or maybe office goodies, thread, sewing notions, embroidery floss, seed packets, stickie note packages, etc.

Using fabric ribbon for the handles, these little puppies sew up speedy fast. Well, faster then the regular sized Poochie Bags. Faster then knitting a bag this size. Way faster then cooking dinner.

– 3) Layer Cake slices (10″ x 10″) – Happy Campers by American Jane featured.
– Assorted ⅜” wide fabric ribbon

1. From green print Layer Cake slice; Cut in half for 2) 5″ x 10″ pieces for bag/liner.
2. From brown print Layer Cake; Cut 2) 2½” x 8″ for pockets. Save and set aside remainder – use for pocket on second bag.
3. From fabric ribbon; Cut 2) 15″ strips for handles.

4. Fold all pieces length to length. Press. Unfold green print and lay flat.
5. Position folded brown print on center of green print so raw edges meet.

6. Center a 15″ piece of fabric ribbon at 1⅛” from each side on top of pocket. Pin.

7. Edge-stitch ribbon down by starting at the raw edge, edge-stitching up to the fold on the green print fabric, across the ribbon’s width, then back down to the raw edge. Repeat on ribbon’s other end/side of pocket. Make two units.

8. Place units right sides together. Pin. Starting at green pin on the non-pocket end (this end will become the bag’s liner), sew around unit with a ¼” seam, stopping at the red pin – leaving a 3″ opening for turning. Use a back-stitch to lock ends.

9. Snip off the corners just above the seam to reduce bulk. Repeat on all corners.

10. Turn bag inside out. Pin open edges closed.

11. Close turning opening by top-stitching it’s edge closed.

12. Tuck liner portion of green print inside bag, and voila… Itty Bitty Poochie Bag is ready to be filled.

Three sheets of a layer cake yield two Itty Bitty Poochie Bags.
Sew and tell… Join and add your Itty Bitty Poochie Bag photo to the Moda Bakeshop flickr pool and the Poochie Bag flickr pool.

Happy H’ween!

Gobble Gobble Table Topper and Table Runner

This tutorial makes one Table Runner that measures 17 x 40 inches, and one Table Topper that measures 32 x 32 inches square. I’ve always loved scalloped edges so I decided to give it a try, and it was actually easier than I had anticipated. I love fall decorations like this because you can leave it out for 2 or three months!

Gobble Gobble Layer Cake

Borders – Brown – 1/4 yard of coordinating fabric
Cream – 1 yard of coordinating fabric

Bias Binding – I purchased 3/4 yards of coordinating fabric for this but I’m sure you could get away with less. I know there are tricks to getting away with way less, but I just cut them into strips on the bias and stitched them together, even then there was a lot left over.

Back – 1 1/2 yards of coordinating fabric
Batting – 1 1/2 yards (I used a 45″ batting similar to warm and natural.)

Step 1 – Pick 14 of your favorite pieces from the layer cake and cut them each into three, 3 1/4 inch strips. If I had to do it over again I probably would have used more of the layer cake squares and not worried so much about wasting them. I would definitely consider cutting up 2 or 3 more squares.

Step 2 – Once you have cut each of your 14 squares into 3 1/4 inch strips place them in piles of three, with each pile having three different pieces.

Step 3 – Sew each pile of three strips together.

Step 4 – Cut into three 3 1/4 inch strips like shown.

Step 5 – Arrange your strips on your floor or a big table how you want them too look. I didn’t want any pattern at all. I tried to make sure that no two fabrics that had the same design were by each other. For the table runner you will need to arrange twelve squares by 3 squares for a total of 36 squares.

For the Table Topper you want to arrange 9 squares by 9 squares for a total of 81 squares.
Sew together a row at a time and then sew your rows together, always pinning at each seam.

Step 6 – BORDERS – First sew on two brown 1 1/4 inch borders on the opposite ends. Cut off even with the square blocks, then add the two long borders to the top and bottom and cut off any excess.

Step 7 – For the cream borders, cut into 5″ strips, and sew on the same way as the brown. Repeat steps 6 and 7 on your table topper also.

This is how the Table Runner and Table Topper should look with the borders sewn on.

Step 8 – Note: If you decided to have your topper and runner quilted draw on your scallops before hand so the quilter knows where to quilt.

I think everyone has a different way of doing this because everyone gave me completely different advice. Sooooo here is what worked for me.

First off draw a straight line in about one inch from the edges of your cream border all around the topper and runner. This is so the tops of your scallops are even. It would also be smart to draw a line where the down point of each scallop will be.

I used a plastic lid as my template. I tried many different sizes and the one that worked the best for me was a 5 1/2″ round lid. I first did my corners and then the four scallops in the middle and then tried to space out the rest from there. Overlapping your scallops will help a ton when it comes to getting them all even. And believe me I didn’t used a black sharpie at first. I only drew over my disappearing marker with a sharpie when I new that my scallops were exactly where I wanted them to be.

Step 9 – Sew around the scallops and then cut out close to your seam. Sewing around it first will make it much easier to bind.

Step 10 – Make your bias binding. If you have never done this before you will need to cut 1 1/2 inch wide strips of fabric on the bias line on your cutting mat. Sew strips together end to end. You will need approx 7 – 8 yards of bias binding. Make your bias binding by first ironing strip in half. Unfold and iron one side half way into the the crease you made previously.

Step 11 – Now the fun part, sewing it on. Sew the raw edge of your bias tape with right sides of fabric together onto the topper or runner. Start in the middle of one of your scallops and line up the edges. I used 1/4 inch seam allowance and lined up the edges as I sewed.

When you get to the corner, keep your needle down but put your presser foot up. Turn topper or runner so the fabric is parallel with your presser foot.

Stretch the two scallops away from each other making it as straight as you can. Put your presser foot down (still stretching the two scallops apart) and continue sewing.

Step 12 – For me this is the fun part. After your border is sewn onto the top, turn your piece around and stitch the back of binding on by hand. When you get to one of the inside points of the scallop just pull the binding up into the scallop and stitch.

A fun new Table Topper and Table Runner to make your Fall Holidays a little more cozy!

If you’d like some ideas of what to do with some of your left over pieces of Gobble Gobble fabric visit my blog by clicking here.

‘Sweet Menagerie’ nine-patch quilt

'Sweet Menagerie' nine-patch quilt

by Roslyn Mirrington of Bloom

This easy-to-piece quilt is made from Tula Pink’s delicious new line, ‘Hushabye’. In her inimitable style, she has cleverly hidden a menagerie of cute creatures in her fabrics ready for you to discover.

1 x jelly roll Moda ‘Hushabye’ by Tula Pink (23040JR)
1 x jelly roll Moda Basics ‘Milk’ (9900-98JR)
0.5 yard coordinating fabric for border
fabric for backing & binding

Sorting fabric strips

Sort the ‘Hushabye’ jelly roll fabrics into:

  • 24 x strips for block borders
  • 2 x lightest strips for ‘lights’ for nine-patch blocks
  • the remaining strips will be used as ‘darks’ for nine-patch blocks.


From the 24 strips you have chosen as your block borders, cut 2 x 10.5″ lengths, and 2 x 6.5″ lengths.
From the 2 lightest strips, cut a total of 28 x 2.5″ squares (7 sets of 4).
From the white jelly roll strips, cut 68 x 2.5″ squares (17 sets of 4).
From the remaining Hushabye strips, cut 120 x 2.5″ squares (24 sets of 5)

Piecing the blocks

A total of 24 blocks is required. All seams are 0.25″.
To make the nine-patch block centre, lay out 5 x 2.5″ Hushabye squares and 4 light/white squares, in three rows of three. Sew the squares together to make up the rows. Press the seams towards the darker squares.
Sew the rows together to form a nine-patch.

Sew a 6.5″ border strip to either side of a nine-patch.

Then sew a 10.5″ border strip to the remaining sides of the nine-patch.

Make 24 blocks in this way. The finished block size should be 10.5″ square.

Assembling the quilt top

Lay all 24 of the 10.5″ blocks out, with 4 blocks across and 6 blocks down. Arrange the blocks until you are satisfied with the layout.

From five white jelly roll strips, cut 18 x 10.5″ lengths. Sew the blocks together in six rows of four, piecing a 2.5″ x 10.5″ white strip between each block.

Take your remaining white jelly roll strips, remove selvedge edges and join short ends together to make one very long, continuous strip.

Measure the width of your rows of blocks. In a perfect world, this measurement will be 46.5″.

From the long, white continuous strip, cut 7 x 46.5″ strips. Sew the rows together, piecing a 2.5″ x 46.5″ white strip between each row and at the top and bottom of your quilt.

NOTE: As you sew the rows together, take care that the blocks are vertically aligned. Before joining subsequent rows of blocks, I extend a line from the previous row of blocks through the white tramming, and mark the lower edge with pencil (see picture below). I then pin the next row of blocks to these marks. This ensures your blocks line up perfectly.

Measure the length of your quilt. It should measure 74.5″. From the long, continuous white strip, cut two 74.5″ strips. Sew to the sides of your quilt.

Adding the borders
1. Pale blue border
Cut seven 2.5″ strips across the width of your 0.5 yard of coordinating fabric. Remove the selvedge edges and join the short ends together to make one long, continuous strip. From this strip, cut two 50.5″ lengths and sew to the top and bottom of your quilt. Cut a further two 78.5″ lengths and sew to either side of your quilt.
2. White border
From the long, continuous white strip, cut two 54.5″ lengths and two 82.5″ lengths and sew to the top, bottom and sides of the quilt, as for the pale blue border.
3. Pieced border
From the remaining Hushabye prints and white strips, cut 72 x 2.5″ coloured squares and 72 x 2.5″ white squares.
NOTE: Be sure at this point to use any small pieces of the white jelly roll before you cut into your long continuous strip. You will need 306″ of white to finish the final border. You should have ample, but just double check before cutting!
Starting and ending with a white square, join 15 white squares and 14 coloured squares in an alternating strip. Make two of these strips and add to the top and bottom of your quilt.
Starting and ending with a coloured square, join 22 coloured squares and 21 white squares, as before. Make two of these strips and add to either side of your quilt.
4. Final white border
From the long, continuous white strip, cut two 62.5″ lengths and two 90.5″ lengths and sew to the top, bottom and sides of the quilt.
Back, quilt and bind your quilt as desired. I used every last inch of fabric to piece the backing.

Belinda Betts of Eucalypt Ridge Quilting brought this quilt alive with her wonderful quilting. The quilting design is called Retro Feathers by Anne Bright.

1 x cute & cuddly ‘Sweet Menagerie’ nine-patch quilt, approximately 66.5″ x 90.5″.

Plates for Your Table

This project is my version of a common block called Dresden Plate. I love this traditional block and started thinking . . . wouldn’t this make a wonderful plate charger for my table and that was the start of my inspiration for this month’s Moda Bake Shop project. I really fell in love with Bonnie & Camille’s “Simple Abundance Collection” that’s now available in stores. It looks so great with the colors I have in my home.

This is a HUGE post but there are FOUR projects within this ONE post. I’ve included instructions for each of the four projects. You can make one of the projects or all of them. The projects are listed in the following order within this post:

  • Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Charger
  • Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
  • Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings
  • Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner

  • One Fat Quarter Bundle of “Simple Abundance” by Bonnie & Camille
  • 3 yards of Cream Background Print #55011-19 for Hourglass Units & Quilt Backing
  • 2/3 yards of Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 for Background Block in Table Runner
  • 2/3 yards of Green & Brown Stripe #55014-13 for Binding
  • 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Cream colored Moda Wool for each 13″ Dresden Plate Charger
  • Stack-n-Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler by Bethany S. Reynolds
  • Triangle Square Up Ruler by Eleanor Burns
Cutting Diagram to use for cutting up your fat quarters.

Added Note: Please refer to the cutting diagram below. The measurement for Letter A is typed incorrectly and should read 4″ x 4″ squares. Also the first “A” at the top of the diagram that looks like a rectangle should be marked letter “D” it’s actually leftover. This information will not print in the printer friendly version of the pattern.

  • 2 Small Buttons per Napkin Ring
  • Coordinating Embroidery Floss for finishing Dresden Plate Chargers

Part One: Making the Dresden Plate Chargers
(Finished Size: 13″ Round)

1. The method for making the Dresden Plate Units is the same no matter what size you decide to make. In this portion of the tutorial I will be using the 3″ x 6″ rectangles for making the Dresden Plate Chargers.

Begin making your Dresden Plate Units by picking out 20 darker fabrics from your Fat Quarter Bundle. Make sure to cut out the strips along the 22″ length of your fat quarter so you will have plenty of room to square up your strips and rectangles.

For Each Plate Charger cut 1 set of 20 rectangles:

  • Cut each strip 3″ x 22″ Sub cut each strip into three 3″ x 6″ rectangles.

2. Using the Stack n’ Whack 18 degree Fan Ruler you will cut out the 20 spokes for each dresden plate unit making sure to align your ruler on the fabric in between the zero and the 6″ line. Trim off the excess fabric on both sides.

3. Arrange each spoke in the position that you desire or you can follow the layout in the picture.

4. Starting with the first spoke pick up the second spoke and place it underneath and continue around the circle. Take the stack to your sewing machine. Reduce your stitch length to 1.5-2.0 (my machine is preset to 2.5).

5. Take the first spoke and with right sides together fold it in half matching the corners of the widest edge and sew using a 1/4″ seam. This will create the point. Make sure to make long thread tails in-between each spoke as you chain stitch.

6. Create a chain for every 20 spokes. This will help keep it more organized.

7. Clip the corner of each point before turning.

8. Fold the seam open and finger press before turning.

9. Turn the seam inward and use a knitting needle or a blunt point to make it pointed.

10. Make sure the seam is in the center of the spoke before you press.

11. It may be easier for you to lay out your spokes as you sew them together. I like to work in a clockwise direction. Establish a starting point and pick up two spokes. Use a 1/4″ seam to sew the spokes together in pairs. Chain Stitch all the pairs. Make sure you start sewing at the outside edge and sew down toward what will become the inside circle. This will assure that your outer edges match up nicely. Remember the open center circle of your dresden plate will later be covered with an appliqued circle.

12. Chain stitch the pairs into 5 sets of four. Then finish by sewing the sets of four into a dresden plate. Press all your seams in a clockwise direction.

IMPORTANT: leave a long thread tail at the outer sewn edge where you begin sewing. Later the thread will be folded into the seam allowance. This will assure that the seams will stay sewn.

13. Now place your sewn and pressed dresden plate in the center of the 15″ x 15″ piece of felted Moda Cream Wool. Pin in place. Using my walking foot I first stitched in the ditch in-between each spoke and secured or locked my stitch at the beginning and end.

14. Then using an invisible thread and a very narrow hemstitch I stitched around the dresden plate unit. You may also hand applique if you desire.

15. Make a cardboard template and create a curved edge. Then use it to trace the curve around each spoke.

16. Cut the wool along the pencil line around the dresden plate charger.

17. Make a 3″ circle out of cereal box cardboard and then cut a piece of fabric larger @ approximately 3 3/4″. Then sew a running stitch around it and pull the threads tight. Apply a bit of starch and press. Remove cardboard then press again.

18. Center the circle in the middle of your Dresden Plate and machine applique using invisible thread and a small hemstitch. You may also hand applique if you prefer. I finished off the wool edge of my Dresden Plate Charger with a blanket stitch.


Part Two: Making the Fat Quarter Napkins
(Finished Size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)

You will need 2 fat quarters (one light & one dark) for each napkin you decide to make.
  • Cut one fat quarter @ 18″ x 18″ square of Green #55011-15
  • Cut one fat quarter @ 12″ x 12″ square of Cream #55013-19
There won’t be enough of the same fabric from your fat quarter bundle to make more than one napkin. This section is just to teach you the method I used for making the Fat Quarter Napkins. You will have to buy additional fabric to make more than one fat quarter napkin.

This is the additional yardage you will need to buy if you decide to make the Fat Quarter Napkins:
  • 2 yards of Green #55011-15 fabric will be enough to make eight 18″ x 18″ squares.
  • 1 yard of Cream #55013-19 fabric will be enough to cut nine 12″ x 12″ squares.
1. Before you cut your fabric make sure to starch and press out all of the fold lines.

2. Take your two fat quarters and trim the darker fabric to 18″ x 18″ square. Then take the light fabric and trim to 12″ x 12″ square.

3. Mark the center on each side of the 12″ square and the 18″ square.

4. Match up the centers on ONE side and pin. Also measure where you would stop sewing the 1/4″ seam on each corner of the 12″ square then make a dot as seen in the picture below.

5. Start sewing from the 1/4″ point in each corner in toward the center where you marked the opening.
Leave at least a 3 finger size opening to turn the napkin when finished.

6. Press the seam toward the darker fabric as seen below.
Then bring the opposite side of the 12″ square up to the opposite side of the 18″ square, matching the centers. Sew from the 1/4″ mark in one corner to the 1/4″ mark on the opposite corner.

Again press the seam toward the darker fabric. You have now sewn two sides of the napkin.

8. Now turn the napkin and repeat the process. Match the centers and pin making sure the corners match up at the 1/4″ point as seen in the picture below.

9. Close-up of sewing the seam down toward the 1/4″ point in the corner where you will stop sewing. Make sure to secure you stitches where you finish the seam.

10. By centering the 12″ square in the middle you will have flaps in all four corners that will become the mitered corners.

11. Fold the flaps and finger press the corners.

11. You will sew the finger pressed seam as seen in the picture below. Make sure to insert the needle where you ended the side seams.

12. Close up of the mitered corner.

13. Close up of the trimmed corners. Make sure to press the mitered seams open and clip the fabric close to the sewn seam right where it meets the corner so that it lays flat.

14. Now you are ready to turn your Fat Quarter Napkin.

15. You may sew a straight or decorative stitch around the inside edge of the darker fabric to finish it off the napkin.


Part Three: Making the Napkin Rings

(Finished Size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ before buttoned)

1. Cut one piece of fabric and one piece of pellon measuring 4″ x 7 1/2″
2. Baste the pellon on the wrong side of fabric.
3. Fold in half with right sides together then sew a 1/4″ seam.
4. Turn right side out. Press.
5. Turn ends inside tube about 1/2″ and press.
6. Sew closely all around the outside edge.
7. Move your needle to the left a little and sew around the napkin ring again.
8. Sew two button holes and attach two buttons.
9. It’s ready to button up and use as a napkin ring.

Part Four: Making the Dresden Plate Table Runner
Finished Size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″

Cut the following to make your hourglass blocks for the Table Runner:
This will be enough to make 72 hourglass blocks (you will use 64)
  • Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from 18 of the darker prints
  • Cut 36 squares measuring 4″ x 4″ from the Cream Background Print #55011-19

Part A: Making the Hourglass Blocks:

1. Start by taking one light 4″ x 4″ square and placing it right sides together over the 4″ x 4″ darker square. Repeat this process for the remaining squares and then draw a pencil line from the top left corner down to the lower right corner.

2. Sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line.

3. Cut along the pencil line of each square.

4. Press the seams to the darker fabric.

5. Pair the half square triangles (HST) with other half square triangles (HST).

6. Place one HST over another HST with right sides together making sure the dark sides are over the light sides as seen in the picture below.

7. Draw another pencil line from one corner across the seam to the other corner as seen in the picture below. Now sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line.

8. After sewing a 1/4″ seam on each side of the pencil line you will cut along the pencil line as seen below. You will need to make two piles. One pile for the left half and one pile for the right half. You ask why? Well, when you go to sew the HST’s together you will want the seams to seat into each other and that will give you well matched points and seams.

9. Now comes the pressing. Start with the right pile that you made in step 8. Open the seam and press them in a clockwise direction as seen below. Repeat the process for the left hand pile as seen below. These seams will go in a counter-clockwise direction.

Here’s a close-up of the seam that you will be opening up.

10. Trim each unit Hourglass Unite to 3″ x 3″ using the Triangle square up ruler making sure to keep your left piles together and your right piles together.

11. Arrange and sew the Hourglass blocks from the right hand pile into groups of 4 hourglass blocks per sashing unit and then repeat for the Hourglass blocks from the left hand pile. You will need 16 of these Hourglass Sashing Units for the Table Runner and then press the seams open.

Part B: Making the Dresden Plate Blocks for the Table Runner

You will need 5 sets of 20 rectangles for the Five 8 3/4″ Dresden Plates.

Out of 20 darker fabrics cut the following:
  • Cut strips @ 2 1/2″ x 22″ then Sub-cut each strip into FIVE 2 1/2″ x 3 3/4 rectangles.

Out of the Cream on Cream Floral #55017-19 cut the following:

  • Cut a 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background square out of a light print for each Dresden Plate Unit you decide to make. Your table runner can be any size you choose. For example, you could use 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 Dresden Plate Block Units depending on how big your table is. I am using 5 blocks for my table runner.

Out of the Dark Brown Fabric cut the following:

  • Cut 12 squares measuring 3″ x 3″ out of the dark chocolate fabric for the posts.

1. Make the 5 dresden plate blocks following the instructions in the Dresden Plate Charger Section in Part One.

2. Then applique the dresden plates to each of the 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ background squares. You can hand applique or machine applique using an invisible thread.

3. Take an hourglass sashing unit and sew one to each side of the dresden plate block.

4. Take two 3″ x 3″ chocolate squares and sew to each side of an hourglass sashing unit. Then sew to the the top and bottom of the dresden plate block (refer to table runner pictures).

5. Continue to assemble the Dresden Plate Table Runner according to the layout in the picture below.

  • One Dresden Plate Table Runner (finished size: 15 1/2″ x 66 1/4″)
  • Six Dresden Plate Chargers (finished size: 13″ round)
  • One Fat Quarter Napkin (finished size: 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″)
  • Six Napkin Rings (finished size: 1 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ unbuttoned)

I hope you LOVE this fall project as much as I LOVED making it.

Hugs, Kim Walus


Vintage Ribbons Table Runner.

to market, to market!!!
rumor has it that rouenneries is going to be quite the star around market booths this weekend.
to celebrate with us, whip up your very own vintage ribbons table runner!!!
{if you are joining us at market, stop by the moda booth to see my table runner in person!!!}

11 rouenneries by french general fat quarters
20 x 44 batting

pick out 11 of your favorite fat quarters.

keep in mind that you want contrast and some solid prints.
from fat quarter #1:
cut three 6 1/2″ squares.

from fat quarter #2:
cut six 2″ x 6 1/2″ strips & six 2″ x 9 1/2″ strips.
from fat quarter #3:
cut four 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles & twelve 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles.

from fat quarter #4:
cut six 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles.

from fat quarter #5:
cut eight 3 1/2″ squares.

from fat quarter #6:
cut eight 2″ x 9 1/2″ strips & four 2″ squares.

from fat quarter #7:
cut sixty-four 2″ squares.
from fat quarters #8-#11:
piece fat quarters #8, #9 & #10 together for your backing.
cut your binding from fat quarter #11. {seven 2 1/2″ x width of fat quarter strips.}
take one of your 6 1/2″ square and add two of your 2″ x 6 1/2″ strips to the top & bottom of it.
then add two of your 2″ x 9 1/2″ strips to the sides of it.
you will make a total of 3 of these.
{click pic to enlarge.}
take one of your 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles and layer one of your 2″ squares on top.
stitch from corner to corner.
note to add: feel free to draw a diagonal line across your 2″ square to have a stitching guide.
open up your triangle and press.
repeat for the other side.
you should now have ten completed star point units, like so.
now take your twelve 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles and make twelve flying geese units using the same method as the star point units.

now we can begin constructing your blocks.
follow my picture diagram to complete your first block.
then add your consecutive pieces by adding on to this unit.
we will now piece your borders.
for your top & bottom borders, follow this pattern:
flying geese unit, 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip, flying geese unit, 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip,
flying geese unit, 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip, flying geese unit.
add these to the top & bottom of your quilt top.
for your two side borders follow this pattern:
2″ block, flying geese unit, 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip, flying geese unit, & 2″ block.
add these to the sides of your quilt top.

your quilt top should now be completed and it should look like this.

layer, baste, quilt {as desired} & bind.

you are now the owner of one amazing 18 1/2″ x 42″ table runner.

{that’s before washing.}

this little table runner would be perfect in loads of fabric lines.

not to mention it’s reversible!!!
hope yall enjoy!!!