Meandering Path Quilt

Hello Everyone! My name is Ellie from Craft Sew Create. I am so excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project!  I have been crafting and sewing since I got my first sewing machine in middle school. But I am currently obsessed with quilts! I absolutely fell in love with Lauren + Jessi Jung’s BOTANY fabric and knew I wanted to make a simple, modern quilt out of it.

 

One Botany by Lauren + Jessi Jung Layer Cake
One Botany by Lauren + Jessi Jung Charm Pack
1/2 yard Botany fabric for binding
3 yards Botany fabric for backing
Batting

 

Step 1:

{Cutting}

Take the entire Layer Cake and cut each square in half.

 

You will have two 5″ x 10″ rectangles.

Cut 1/2″ off of each 5″ side of the rectangle. Your rectangles will now be 5″ x 9 1/2″. {You can cut the 1/2″ off before you cut the squares in half, it will save time…I just didn’t get that picture, lol!}

That’s it! Now the fun begins.

Step 2: 

{Layout}

I like to lay my quilt squares first so I can get the colors right where I want them. This is layout I liked the best, feel free to move yours around a bit. There are seven rows where the 5″ x 91/2″ rectangles are laid out vertically, and two groupings where the rectangles are laid out horizontally with an alternating Charm Square. Some of the vertical rows have Charm Squares at the top and bottom so that the rows can be variegated.

Here is an illustration so you could see the layout. From left to right the quilt has two vertical rows, a horizontal grouping row, three vertical rows, a horizontal grouping row, and then two vertical rows.  

Step 3:

{Sew the Rows}

 Use a 1/4″ seam for the whole project. The first row has a Charm Square, 7 vertical rectangles and then a Charm Square. 

The second row has 8 vertical rectangles.

 

Next is the horizontal grouping row. Each row has one Charm Square and one 5″ x 91/2″ rectangle. Alternate between having the Charm Square on the left and on the right. There are 16 rows.

Don’t forget to press your seams along the way! I like to press mine open.

Step 4: 

{Sew the Rows Together}

                    

When you sew the rows together be sure to match the corners. 

On the outside rows and center row you can match the corners when you pin the row on like this.

Voila! Your quilt top is complete! 

 Now it’s time to Baste….

Quilt…
(I quilted the vertical rows with a vertical stripe and quilted the horizontal grouping rows in a stipple. I love the contrast and how it allows the different rows to stand out.)

…and Bind!

 

You’re done, yay! Let me know if you make it, I’d love to see pictures! If you have any questions or to show me some pics, email me at craftsewcreate@gmail.com.

One beautiful 60″ x 72″ Meandering Path Quilt!

Craft Sew Create 

Welcome Spring

52″ x 52″

Hi Quilters…I’m Cherri House of Cherry House Quilts, and this is my first Bake Shop project, it’s an honor to join the Bake Shop bunch!

I hope you will enjoy making Welcome Spring, a sweet quilt perfect for an afternoon picnic, a lap quilt for sitting out and reading your favorite book, or covering a little who has fallen asleep.

Please feel free to visit anytime http://cherryhousequilts.com/

Cherri

1 Jelly Roll (Botany featured by Lauren + Jessi Jung)

2 yards White Bella Solid (quilt and binding)

58” x 58” Batting (recommend Hobbs Heirloom Fusible Batting)

3 yards quilt backing

Use 1/4″ seam allowance throughout

Fabric Cutting:

From the White Solid cut 5 2 1/2″ strips, join strips together; subcut into the following:

5 each 8 1/2″ strips, 4 each 14 1/2″ strips, 4 each 10 1/2″ strips, 4 each 12 1/2″ strips

From the White Solid cut 21 1 1/2″ strips, join strips together, subcut into 16 52 1/2″ strips

From the White Solid cut 6 2 1/4″ strips, joins strips together for binding

From the Jelly Roll select 17 strips for your quilt, arrange on a design wall in a pleasing manner

Label strips 1 through 17

Trim the following amounts from the listed strips:

From strips 2, 6, 10, and 14 cut 6″ from the bottom of the strip (not the selvage edge)

From strips 3, 7, 11, and 15 cut 2″ from the bottom of the strip (not the selvage edge)

From strips 4, 8, 12, and 16 cut 4″ from the bottom of the strip (not the selvage edge)

Remove nothing from strips 1, 5, 9, 13, and 17

Assemble strips:

To strips 1, 5, 9, 13, and 17 add a 2 1/2” x 8 1/2” white strip section to the end, press to the dark

To strips 2, 6, 10, and 14 add a 2 1/2” x 14 1/2” white strip section to the cut end, press to the dark

To strips 3, 7, 11, and 15 add a 2 1/2” x 10 1/2” white strip section to the cut end, press to the dark

To strips 4, 8, 12, and 16 add a 2 1/2” x 12 1/2” white strip section to the cut end, press to the dark

Piecing the top:

Stitch a sashing strip to the right of strips 1 through 16, begin from the bottom of the strip (not the selvage end), press to the sashing strip.

Join strip sections by two’s, press to the sashing strip, again, begin from the bottom of the strip, not the selvage end.

When all strips are joined, evenly trim the top of the quilt, removing the selvage from the strips.

Prepare the quilt back:

Prepare quilt back by dividing 3 yards of backing fabric into 2 equal lengths.

Join the pieces lengthwise, press open seam allowance

Prepare to quilt:

If using fusible batting, cut the batting to 58” x 58”

Center the quilt top onto the fusible batting, following manufacturers instructions.

Center the quilt top and batting on the quilt back, and fuse

Quilting Recommendation:

Use a walking foot to create long linear lines for a contemporary look.

Starting in the center of the quilt, stitch in the center of each white sashing strip, moving outward across the quilt in one direction until complete, then repeat on the opposite side.

Next, using the edge of the walking foot as a guide, stitch on the inside of each fabric strip from the left and right side.

On the left and right sides of the quilt, stitch and 1/8 of an inch from the raw edge the length of the quilt to secure prior to binding.

Trim excess fabric and batting around the quilt.

Binding, label, and enjoy!

Enough strips for two quilts from each jelly roll

I hope enjoy making this quick little spring time quilt!

Cherri

Flip Floppin’ Toddler Wear

1 Jelly Roll {featured Botany by Lauren + Jessi Jung}

1 White Girls Shirt

1 White Boys Polo

Fusible Tape

1. Divide the jelly roll into colors.  Select two color ways you wish to use on your shirts.  I chose to use the yellow and green colorways for this tutorial. 

For the Girls Shirt, select 4 green and 4 yellow strips for the flaps and 1 strip for the tie.

For the Boys Shirt, select 3 strips. 

Girls Shirt

2. From the 8 strips you selected for the flaps on the girls shirt, cut them in half on the fold.

3. You should now have 16 strips.  Fold each of the strips Right Sides Together with the short ends matched up.

4. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew down either side of the long ends creating a tube with an opening at one end (opposite from the fold.)

5. Using a Bodkin, turn your strip right side out.

To poke the corners out, I use a Crystal Point Turner by Lee. This thing is awesome… no poking through the fabric.

6. Repeat this process for all 16 strips.

7. Press and Top-stitch on all three of the closed sides.

8. Measure your shirt and determine how long you want your strips to hang down.  I measured my shirt from just below the arm pit down to the bottom of the shirt.  My measurement was 10″.  Trim all your pieces to the measurement you need.  BE SURE to trim from the open end of the strip.

9. Start placing your yellow strips evenly across the front side of the shirt making sure all the bottoms are lined up.  The two end pieces will be centered with the side seams of your shirt.

10.  Next layer your green pieces stagered ontop of the yellow strips hiding the white shirt behind.  I pinned my pieces in sections for easy handling when sewing.  I also pinned both the top and bottom of the strips.  You will only sew down the top of the strips.  The bottom pinned just helps in keeping your strips aligned.

11.  Stitch down the top of the strips to secure in place.

12.  Continue placing and sewing sections of strips down until you have 16 strips going all around the shirt.  You may need more or less strips depending on the size of the shirt.

13.  Take the piece set aside for the tie on the shirt.  With Right Sides Together (RST), fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch down all three raw edges with a 1/4″ seam.  Leave open a 3 inch hole in the center of the strip for turning.

Turn the Strip right side out, press and topstitch 1/8″ on all four sides, closing the 3″ turn hole.

14.  Using some fusible tape, apply to the back side of the tie around the shirt. Press.  This will help keep the tie in place while stitching to the shirt.

15. Starting at one end of the tie where the two ends meet on the shirt, top-stitch onto the shirt on both sides of the tie.  Tie the loose ends in a knot.  Your knot can be on the front or the back side of the shirt.

16.  One adorable little Flip Floppin’ Shirt for a sweet little girl.

Boys Shirt
17. Cut the following sizes from your 3 strips.
cut 2 – 2 1/2″ x 5″
cut 2 – 2 1/2″ x 7″
cut 2 – 2 1/2″ x 9″

Depending on the size of your shirt, you may need to smaller or taller.  I just kept a 2″ height distance between the three strips.

18. Fold the ends of the strips in on the short ends and press.
Then fold the strip in half and then unfold. Fold the two raw edges in towards the center fold line and press.

19.  Using the Fusible tape, apply a piece the back side of each strip and press on to the shirt as shown.

Repeat the same design on the back opposite side of the shirt.

20.  Using a zig-zag stitch, stitch around the four sides of all six strips to secure onto the shirt.

21.  One handsome, modern little man.

One jelly roll will make several shirt combinations.

Mix, match and have FUN!

Angela Yosten
http://blog.angelayosten.com/

Fly-Away Canvases: Andy Warhol Style

I have always been a huge fan of Andy Warhol’s famous screenprints.

If you’re not quite sure who I’m talking about… you’d probably recognize his work if you were to see it. He’s most famous for his Campbell’s Soup prints and his Marilyn Monroe series which you can view here if you’re curious.
We’ve used the fabric line, Botany (which my mother and I recently designed) to create this series of “pop art” butterflies… It’s a great springtime project!

I’m so excited to be posting my very first tutorial here on The Bake Shop! Please feel free to reach out with any comments or suggestions or questions!

I hope you enjoy!

You can also find out more on our blog and website!

1. 1 Botany Layer Cake
   
2. Three 12” x 14” pieces of fabric for backgrounds (1 for each canvas)
3. Three 8″ x 10″ canvases (you can find these at your local craft store: Michaels, A.C. Moore, etc., any brand will be fine)
4. Staple gun
5. Needle and thread
6. Freezer paper and pen (for tracing templates)

This pattern will make 3 appliquéd canvases.



STEP 1 / We recommend planning out each of your canvases before starting… especially if you’re making more than one canvas. (When creating combinations that use 5 fabrics at a time, such as these do, it might be better to plan out groups of fabrics that contain similar color palettes. Here are some combinations that we really like, but the possibilities are truly endless!)

STEP 2 / Cut a 12” x 14” piece of fabric for background.

STEP 3 / To help you when laying out your appliqué pieces, we recommend creating guides:

• Fold square in half vertically.
• And again horizontally.
• Press folds.

STEP 4 These are designed to print on an 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper.

• Trace pattern pieces from templates on to dull side of freezer paper. (Be sure to add the identifying numbers to each piece.)
• Cut out pieces.

Hint: Freezer paper is semi-transparent, so lay it on top of the diagram, then trace.

STEP 5 / Press the freezer paper pieces (shiny side down) on to the right side of your chosen fabric using a dry iron. (Pieces will temporarily stick to fabrics.)

STEP 6 / Trace around pattern pieces on right side of fabric using a mechanical pencil or pen. (Pencil/pen marks will be turned under and hidden when appliquéd.)

STEP 7 / Cut out drawn fabric pieces leaving a 1/8″ edge surrounding each piece.

STEP 8 / Position and pin pattern pieces on to the background square, referring to fold lines and placement chart as guides.

STEP 9 / Use “needle-turn” method of appliqué. Sew moth parts to square in layers following the number sequence on each piece. Do not appliqué edges which will be covered by overlapping layers. (Refer to placement chart.)

STEP 10 / Iron out fold lines.

STEP 11 / Center the butterfly on the canvas.

STEP 12 / Use a staple gun to attach the fabric onto the canvas. There’s no right or wrong way to do this, but I like to start by placing one staple into the middle of each horizontal bar (see left photo). Then I put a staple in the middle of each vertical bar (see right photo).

STEP 13 / Then I work my way out from those center staples until I reach the corners of the canvas.

STEP 14 / To finish off the corners, fold the excess fabric over a few times and staple it into place.

That’s it! Enjoy your awesome set of Butterfly Canvases!

You can also check out our blog at www.LaurenAndJessiBlog.com for more fun photos and ideas… AND, you can find 5 more free patterns on our website at www.LaurenAndJessiJung.com.

Happy Quilting!

Spring/Easter Dress

Hi! Tam here from Sew Dang Cute. I’ve got a fun Easter/Spring dress for you today using the bright, lovely colors from Lauren and Jessi Jung’s latest line, Botany. Love it!!

– 1 Botany Jelly Roll by Lauren and Jessi Jung
– 1/4 yd five different coordinating fabrics
– Coordinating thread(s)
– Elastic thread

*All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.

Note: I made two different dresses at the same time, so pictures are from both dresses.

1. First we need to get some measurements. Measure child’s chest/waist. Use whichever measurement is bigger and add 6″. My daughter’s was 22″, so my measurement is 28″. Next decide the desired length of the dress. For my 4T dress, I wanted it 27″ long. Select 5 strips from the jelly roll. Next we need to do a little math.

Here’s the formula: Desired length – 10″ + 3.5″ / 6.

Explanation:Each jelly roll strip is 2.5″, so with seam allowances and five strips, we will get 10″ of our desired length (27″), leaving 17″ we need to get from our five coordinating fabrics. We need to add in hem and seam allowances of the coordinating strips, so add another 3.5″. I used my top color twice, so divide by 6. ex: 27 – 10 + 3.5 /6 = 3.416. I rounded to 3.5″. Did you make it? Now we are ready to cut.

2. Cut your top piece 3.5″” x 28″”. (28 from chest/waist measurement, 3.5″ from above formula). Cut your first jelly roll strip so it is 28″ long. Cut 3.5″ strips from all 5 coordinating fabrics. Cut two strap pieces 2.5″ x 10″. Lay out all your pieces in the desired pattern.
3. Take the two top pieces (the shorter ones: 28″). Sew right sides together (RST). Finish seam with either a zig-zag stitch or serger. Press, making sure to press the bulk of the seam towards the topmost piece. Topstitch.
4. Fold in half RST, lining up the two short raw end sides. Mark in 1/4″ from the raw edges where your seam will be with pins, then line the pins up at 0″ on a ruler. Find halfway and mark with pin. Mine was 13.5″, so I marked 6.75″ with a red pin. Go left 1/2″ mark with a pin (mine is white), then add 3″ from there and mark with pin (mine is another white pin). Draw a scoop between the white pins. Click on image to enlarge. Cut out the scoop. Unfold and you should have two cut-outs. These are for the arms. Now we need to hem the top. Make a few small clips in the arm holes (this will make it easier to fold for the hem).Fold the top raw edge (the one with the scoops), down 1/4″ towards the wrong side of the fabric and press. Fold down another 1/4″ and press. Stitch down. Set top piece aside.

5. Grab your very bottom piece and hem it with a 1/4″ hem like we used above.
6. Stitch remaining pieces (all the 44″ length jelly roll strips and coordinating fabrics) together in desired order. Finish seams. Press and topstitch, switching threads as necessary if doing multiple colors. You should now have a top and bottom piece.
7. Fold bottom piece in half RST, lining up the seams and pinning in place. Stitch. Finish seam. Do the same with the top piece.

8. Sew a gathering stitch along the raw edge of your bottom piece. Divide both the top and bottom pieces into 1/4’s and mark with pins. Place the top piece inside the bottom piece RST, and raw edges lining up, and match up the pins. Pulling on the bobbin thread, gather the fabric between pins and pin frequently to hold the gathers in place. Make sure to change your stitchlength back to a regular stitch and stitch. Finish seam. Press and topstitch.

9. Next we are going to do some shirring. Lay your dress facedown. Mark about 1 1/2″ in from each side with pins. Handwind a bobbin with elastic thread. You don’t want to stretch it as you are winding or it will be too tight. Load the elastic thread in your bobbin and keep regular thread in the top. Starting 1/4″ down from the hem stitching, sew between the two pins, making sure to backstitch really well at the start and stop. Continue the next row 1/4″ down from the row you just made. Sew about 10 rows or so, just enough that you have sewn down the top two strips of the dress. Press those rows and watch the fabric shrink up to create the smocking.
10. Let’s get those straps done. Fold in half lengthwise and sew RST. Turn inside out and press with the seam in the middle of the strap. Topstitch the long sides of the straps. To figure out where to attach the straps, I grabbed my daughters and slipped the dresses on them, then pinned the straps in place. Stitch the straps in place by going right over the hem stitching. Trim excess fabric on straps, if necessary, and finish the raw edges. Guess what?! You are ALL DONE!!! Back view: Add a cute matching fabric flower using this tutorial and you have one springy, happy, little lady (or in my case two)!

One jelly roll will be enough for multiple dresses, you will just need to buy extra yardage of the solid coordinating fabrics. I was able to make two dresses with the amounts listed.

Botany Charm Pack Reversible Purse

Hi Moda Bake Shop Fans!
I’m Bradie Sparrow from QuiltCetera.Com. I am thrilled to share this fun reversible purse recipe with you today. I love to make these purses with bright, funky fabrics, and this time I chose the new Moda line Botany, designed by Lauren and Jessi Jung. Say hello to my oldest of 8 children. My beautiful daughter Landen Emily modeling this cute little purse for us. Now, let’s get on with the show!

One Charm Pack of Botany Fabric – or any Moda charm pack with minimum 36 squares.
Batting : 2 pieces measuring aprox. 15 X 10.5 inches for body of purse
and 2 pieces 1 1/4 inch X 26.5 inches for purse handles.
2 Large Buttons to match fabric

Start by separating your charms into their different color ways. Choose two colors for the outside of your bag, and another two colors for the inside. As you can see, The Boss (AKA Teenaged owner of said bag) chose pink and green for one side, and brown with teal for the other side.

To Make the Sides of the Bag:
You will need 12 squares for the inside and 12 for the outside. Sew them together in groups of 6 as shown in the pictured layout.

Take one panel of 6 (pink/green shown) and stitch it onto your 10.5 inch X 15 inch piece of batting. Stitch about 1/8 inch away from outer edge of fabric so your stitches will be hidden in the seam allownace later. Trim away the excess batting.
Repeat for one brown and teal panel.

To shape the top of your bag:
Flip the second pink/green panel (without batting) to it’s wrong side. Make the following marks in the two outside squares of the top row. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the side of the square , and another line 2.5 inches from the top of the square. Draw a diagonal line between the two marks. Mark another small line 1/4 inch below the first mark on the side.
Use the same panel for the next step.

 To shape the bottom of the bag:
Make the following marks in the two outside squares of the bottom row. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the side of the square , and another line 2.5 inches from the bottom of the square. This marks the beginning and end of the curve to shape the bottom of the bag.

 Use a CD or DVD to draw the curve. This will be your cutting line. When you stitch the curve, it will be inside this drawn line. Repeat both shaping steps to mark the brown/teal panel.

To attach the bottom of two panels together:
Place your first pink/green panel, batting side down on your table. Place the second, with the markings, right side down on top of first panel. Pin the sides first at the small 1/4 inch mark. Pin your seams to make them match up nicely.

Pin the sides of the middle square in the bottom row (shown with 2 white flower head pins in picture above). This square needs to remain unstitched. You will turn the purse right side out through this hole in a later step. Begin stitching at the mark 1/4 inch below the diagonal line on the right side of the bag, carefully rounding the corners as you come to them. Remember not to stitch the middle square! (This is only for one ‘pouch’. When you attach the brown/green panels to each other, you WILL stitch the middle square.) Finish stitching 1/4 below the diagonal line on the other side of the bag. Trim the rounded corners and press seams open.

Repeat for the brown/teal panels.

To Attach the two pouches:
Turn the brown/teal pouch inside out (right side of fabric facing inwards) with batting facing the table surface. Turn the pink/green bag right side facing out with batting layer closest to you. Ensure you don’t have both batting layers on one side of the bag.

Begin pinning the top two layers together to attach the top of the two pouches. You will be pinning a pink/green to a brown/teal.
.

First pin the top outer corners to align the pieces. Next pin the seams. Lastly pin the bottom of the two diagonal lines. Repeat for the other side of both pouches. Begin stitching on the bottom a diagonal line. The seam allowance will be outside of this diagonal stitching line. Don’t worry about the small gap left open, we’ll close that up real soon. Stitch around the entire top of the bag ending at the bottom of the opposite diagonal line.
Repeat for pinning and stitching the other side of the bag.

Pull the inside bag out of the outer bag. Lay bag flat and trim top corners 1/4 outside of the stitching line. Make sure no part of the bag is under the area being trimmed.
(Don’t ask me why I am stressing this point!)

Now back to that little gap on both sides of the bag. Place a pin at the bottom of the diagonal line and stitch between the pin and the 1/4 inch mark only. You will need to stitch this gap twice on each side of the bag.

In the picture, I am showing you how the batting on the back is pointing to the left, and the batting in the front points to the right. Next stitch down the side of the bag to close the left over space.
This finishes the construction of the bag!

Now for the little details….

Remember the hole we left open in the middle square of the bag? Pull the entire bag out through that hole and arrange one bag inside the other.
Press the top of the bag really well, reaching inside to push out the corners as needed.
Stitch the opening closed. I stitched mine by machine (so it wasn’t flopping around) then removed the stitches after and finished it by hand.

Choose a thread you like for top stitching around the top of the bag.

See where the blue flower head pin is? This is where you should start and stop your stitching, You can back stitch here and it will be hidden by the purse straps.

Making the straps:
Choose 6 charm squares to match the brown/teal side of the bag. Sew them together in one long strip to measure 5 inch wides by 27.5 inches. Fold in half and cut the strip in half to finish with 2 strips measuring 2.5 by 27.5 inches.
Repeat with another 6 charm squares for the pink/green side of the bag.

Press the strap in half lengthwise.

Open the strap up and fold each side in towards the middle and press again.

Place the long batting strips inside the strap and close the folds over the batting.

Fold up the short end and stitch it in place to finish the ends.
Repeat with the straps to match the pink/green side of bag.
Do Not place batting inside the second set of straps.

Lay the straps out on top of each other, with folds facing each other. Pin together and top stitch down the sides leaving the last 5 inches unstitched. This is how you will attach the straps to the purse.

Pin the straps onto the purse matching the proper colors. The bottom of the strap should be 3.5 inches from the top of the bag, and the strap should be centered over the seam. Arrange the other color of strap onto the inside of the purse and pin in place also. I push a pin through at the corners to make sure bath starps are in the same place, inside and out. You will stitch both straps on at the same time.
The photo on the right shows the straps after stitching to the purse.

We are sooooo close now! Make the strap closure:
Take one last charm square and cut in half. Sew the two pieces together to finish with a long piece 2.5 inches by 9.5 inches.

Press the short edges under, and stitch in place. Fold strap in half, open up and fold outer sides into middle, just like we did with the purse strap. Finally, fold the whole strap in half, to finish approx 9.25 inches by 5/8 inch.

Fold the strap as shown in picture and stitch across to hold in place. Center the strap on the purse 1.5 inches from the top of the bag. Pin in place, stitch, add a couple of buttons,and voila! You have a new bright and funky reversible purse.

And there you have it… A reversible one charm pack purse! I look forward to reading your thoughts and comments. Have fun!