Little Boy Blue {Toddler Bean Bag}

 

Summer is finally here! I whipped up this cute little bean bag for my son  to complement the girly tuffets I made for my daughter {Tea Party Tuffets}.  I used the boy-ish colors in flannel from Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade line. Since I was working with leftovers, mine are just basic panels in two different prints, but ideally you would piece charm packs together and use my templates (at the end of the Printer Friendly version) to create a patchwork version.

• 2 yards lining material
• 2-1/2 yards bean bag material* or 4 charm packs
• 4 lbs (approximately 3 cubic feet) polystyrene beads
• One 22″ polyester zipper
• One “Little Boy Blue” Bean Bag Pattern, printed

*If using two prints, you will need 1-1/4 yard of each bean bag material.

BEAN BAG PATTERN ASSEMBLY: 

1. Open and print all pages of the “Little Boy Blue” Bean Bag Pattern on 8.5 x 11″ paper. Make sure that the printer settings are not set to “fit to scale.” The first page includes a 1″ tester square–measure to make sure everything has printed correctly.

2. Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece A,” Piece B,” and “Piece C.” Tape together as indicated in the adjacent diagram and set aside.

 3.  Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece D” and “Piece E.” Tape together as indicated.

NOTE: If you’d like to make a larger version of this bean bag (suitable for older kids), take these printed template pages to your local copy center and enlarge all pieces 150%.

CUTTING: 

You will need to cut a total of six bean bag panels from the bean bag material. (Since I am using two bean bag materials, I will be cutting three panels from each.) There are multiple ways to cut the panels from your fabric–here is my preferred method to get the most out of the yardage:

When you purchase fabric off the bolt, the manufacturer has already folded it in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Keeping it folded this way, make another fold by bringing the top of the fabric down about 9-10″ (or until the pattern fits along this new fold). Note: this new fold will run perpendicular to the manufacturer’s original fold.

Pin the pattern in place along the fold where indicated. Carefully cut around the pattern shape, remove the pins, and unfold the two resulting bean bag panels. Repeat the 9-10″ fold, realign the pattern, pin in place, and cut again. Repeat until you have six bean bag panels total.

*TIP: If using two different prints, this cutting method will yield 4 bean bag panels from each. You can refold the two extra panels (one from each print) and cut a top & bottom piece from each.

Speaking of the top & bottom pieces, go ahead and place that pattern on the fold of your leftover bean bag material and cut two. Designate one for the bean bag top and the other for the bean bag bottom.

LINING: Repeat the whole process to get six panels and a top and bottom from the lining material. 

SEWING THE BEAN BAG:

You will begin with two bean bag panels and the 22″ zipper. (If using two prints, retrieve one of each so we can alternate them).

Turn the zipper over so it is right sides together with one of the bean bag panels. Align the raw edges and pin in place down the entire zipper, moving the zipper head down as you go.

Once the zipper head reaches the bottom (or before then), move it back up a bit so you can pin the zipper tape beyond it. This may require removing some pins momentarily.

Install the zipper foot on the sewing machine (make sure you move the needle over to the left) and stitch the zipper in place, stitching as close to the teeth as possible.

Once you reach the zipper head, don’t be tempted to just stitch around it. Take a second to pause and pull the project out from the machine. Zip it up so the zipper head into the area where the zipper is already sewn down. Resume stitching all the way to the bottom.

Bring this “zippered” panel right sides together with the next panel. Referring to the picture below, fold the zippered-edge back slightly so the zipper is now right sides together with the other panel.

Line up the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the panel. Begin pinning the zipper tape in place just as you did with the other panel, moving the zipper head down, and so on.

Move needle to right of the zipper foot and sew the zipper tape in place from the top.

When you’re done, you can take a little sneak peek of what the zipper will look like! Looks good, but we need to do one more thing.

Top-stitch the zipper in place on both sides. Keep using the zipper foot and make sure the needle is set on the side away from the zipper teeth to give a nice (approx. 3/8″) seam allowance.

Now that the zipper is in place, we can sew the rest of the panels together.

Add the next panel (right sides together), aligning the raw edges, and pinning in place like so.

Sew along the pinned side using 3/8″ seam allowance.

Repeat and add another panel until all six are all attached in a row. If using two prints, alternate them. Bring the first and last panel right sides together, pin in place, and sew together.

Keep the bean bag inside out and unzip the zipper before proceeding.

Pin the top right sides together with the bean bag, aligning the raw edges. Sew the top in place using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Repeat to add the bottom, but double check that the zipper is open before you do. 

Finally, turn the bean bag right-side out through the zipper opening.

Repeat this whole sewing process (minus the zipper) with the lining pieces. When adding the final bottom round piece, only stitch it 2/3 of the way. Turn the lining right-side out through that hole and fill it with the polystyrene beads before stitching it closed.

A word about the polystyrene beads: Be sure to read and follow all instructions. They will cause a big mess if you’re not careful.

Once the bean bag is filled about 2/3 full, pin it shut and hand-stitch it closed.

Now you are ready to slip it into your beautiful bean bag cover. Zip up and enjoy! When it gets dirty, just unzip, remove the bean bag, and wash the bean bag cover.

 

A fun and happy pint-sized bean bag perfect for any toddler!

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

Moda Bake Shop Basics: Binding

Welcome to our first series of Moda Bake Shop Basics! Oda May has rounded up a set of tutorials from our Chefs that will teach basic sewing and quilting skills. Today’s post from Vanessa Goertzen of Lella Boutique is all about binding.

This tutorial will teach you how to make straight binding (not cut on the bias). 

To get started, calculate how many inches of binding you will need. Measure the sides of your squared quilt, adding each side up for the total length. There are quilting calculators that will do this simple math for you, but I’ve included the basic formulas below. My latest Bake Shop recipe – Jumping Jacks Quilt – measured almost 60″ square so I’ll use that as an example:

(Quilt Length x 2) + (Quilt Width x 2) = Total Binding Inches
(60 x 2) + (60 x 2) = 240 inches of binding

Total Binding Inches/Usable Width of Fabric = Number of Strips to Cut
240/42 =  5.71 strips (round up to 6)

Number of Strips x Strip Width = Yardage Needed
6 x 2.5 =  15 inches (round up to 1/2 yard)

Now that you know how many strips are needed, it is time to cut.

Connect the binding strips end-to-end at a bias by placing two ends right sides together at a 90 degree angle. Draw a diagonal line as indicated.

Stitch along the marked line.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance.

Open and press. Behold your binding strips connected at a bias!

Once all strips are sewn together, fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and iron.

Line up the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt (start in the middle of one side).

Skipping the first 8″ of the binding, stitch the binding in place using 3/8″ seam allowance.

Keep sewing until you are almost to the end of that side. Stop exactly 3/8″ away from the edge of that side.

Remove the quilt from the sewing machine. Extend the binding strip in a straight line.

Fold the binding upward (90 degree angle) in a straight line with the next side.

Fold it down to line up with the next side of the quilt. Pin in place if necessary.

Resume the 3/8″ seam allowance from the top of that side and keep sewing until you are 3/8″ away from the end of that side. Repeat the fold at all corners.

Once you have pivoted at all corners, keep sewing until you are a few feet away from the beginning of the binding.

Trim the binding tails to overlap by exactly 2-3/4″ (the binding thickness, 2.5″, plus 1/4″).

Unfold the binding strip tails and bring them right sides together at a bias. Draw a diagonal line as indicated and pin in place.

After you have sewn along the marked line, trim 1/4″ seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open and flat.

Fold the binding strip back in half lengthwise. It should be an exact fit!

Resume stitching until you meet the beginning stitches.

Fold the binding up and over to the back of the quilt.

Using a double-threaded needle, stitch through the batting and back fabric and into folded edge of the binding, at an angle.

Repeat, stitching through the back and batting directly below the exit point of thread through the binding in the previous stitch.

Mitering the corners: when you reach the corner, extend the binding in a straight line (it will end in a 45 degree angle).

Fold the binding strip in to meet in the corner. Resume stitching.

Happy binding!

& Vanessa Goertzen {lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

Jumping Jacks Quilt

Once upon a time there were five happy little blocks with happy red centers and happy red diamonds at their corners. They stood out from their neighbors, and were nicknamed “jumping jacks.”

Finished size is 59.5 x 59.5″ Fabrics used are Happy-Go-Lucky by Bonnie & Camille

• One jelly roll (Forty 2.5″ x WOF strips)
• 1-3/4 yd neutral fabric (penny gray)
• 3/4 yds red fabric (penny red)
• 3/4 yds border fabric (mum red)
• 2/3 yds binding fabric (garden navy)
• 64 x 64″ cotton batting 
• 4 yds back fabric (bella solid in scarlet)

You will need 36 of the 40 jelly roll strips. Sub-cut each strip into two 2.5 x 5″ strips, and two 2.5 x 9″ strips.

From the [penny gray] neutral fabric, you will need to cut the following:

• Four strips 5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 5 x 5″ squares, eight per strip until you have 31 total. 
• Six strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 9″ strips, four per strip until you have 24 total.
• Eight strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 2.5″ squares, sixteen per strip until you have 128.

From the red fabric, you will need to cut the following: 

• One strip 5″ x WOF. Sub-cut the strip into 5 x 5″ squares until you have 5.
• Five strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 2.5″ squares, sixteen per strip until you have 80. 

Referring to the picture below, organize all fabric into two piles:

• Pile one: 31 jelly roll strips with the [penny gray] neutral blocks/strips.
• Pile two: 5 remaining jelly roll strips with the red blocks. 

Next, use a pen and ruler to mark a diagonal line on the back of all 2.5 x 2.5″ neutral and red squares.

*Use 1/4″ seam allowance for all sewing unless otherwise stated. “Jumping Jacks” Blocks: From “pile two,” you will need one red 5″ block and one sub-cut jelly roll strip (two 2.5 x 5″ strips and two 2.5 x 9.5″ strips). Attach the 2.5 x 5″ strips to the top and bottom-sides as indicated below. Press the seams.

 

Sew the 2.5 x 9″ strips to the sides and press the seams. Repeat to make five red-centered (“jumping jacks”) blocks.

Repeat with the neutral 5″ blocks and their (31) sub-cut jelly roll strips from “pile one.”  Arrange ALL blocks into six rows with six blocks per row. Once the arrangement is to your liking, retrieve the marked 2.5 x 2.5″ RED squares only.  Snowball Blocks:  Place one red 2.5 x 2.5″ square in each corner of the red-centered (“jumping jacks”) blocks. Place more in the corners of neighboring blocks that touch a “jumping jacks” block; the marked lines will form a diamond shape in each corner. Pin each red block firmly in place.

 

Before you begin stitching these blocks in place, you may also want to take a picture (or otherwise notate) your block arrangement so you won’t forget where anything goes. I usually just snap a picture with my phone’s camera.

Pin [penny gray] neutral 2.5 x 2.5″ squares in any corners that do not have a red one. Make sure the marked lines are oriented as indicated below (to form diamonds at the corners with neighboring blocks) and pin in place.

Stitch along the marked lines pinned in each corner.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance at each corner. Open and press to form the finished snowball block.

Arrange all snowball blocks back into their designated places.

Sew the quilt-top in place by sewing the blocks into rows, then the rows together–lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press the quilt-top.

Retrieve the 2.5 x 9″ [penny gray] neutral strips and four 2.5 x 2.5″ squares. “Frame” the quilt with one neutral border strip next to each outside block with a 2.5 x 2.5″ square in each corners.  NOTE: The border is broken up into strips to accommodate the completion of any red diamonds in the corners of “jumping jacks” blocks that may be on the outside of the quilt-top arrangement.

Finish any incomplete red diamonds by pinning red 2.5 x 2.5″ squares (right sides together) onto the neutral border strips where necessary.

Stitch along the marked lines.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance; open and press.

Sew the border strips together in order (omitting the 2.5 x 2.5″ corner blocks of the border) and add to the top and bottom of the quilt-top first.

Repeat to add the borders to the sides, this time including the 2.5 x 2.5″ border blocks at the beginning and end of each strip.  Now we are going to add a second border. You will need the border fabric cut into six strips 4″ x WOF. Piece together 1-1/2 strips per side.

Add the top and bottom border pieces first; add the sides and square up before basting onto your batting and back fabric.

Be sure to insert safety pins to prevent the layers from shifting during the quilting process.

Quilt as desired. I did some freemotion squiggles.

After the quilting is completed, trim away the batting and back fabric. Square up the quilt.

Bind as desired. I cut seven strips 2.5″ x WOF and pieced on the bias.

 One very happy 59.5 x 59.5″ lap quilt.

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

UPDATED: 1/29/2014

120-Minute GIft: Tea Party Tuffets

Brighten up your space with Vanessa’s happy little Tea Party Tuffets. Make them simple with just yardage or add a little patchwork fun with charm packs. There are so many lovely possibilities!

*Fabric is “Marmalade” by Bonnie & Camille

• 1 charm pack or 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Top

• 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Bottom

• 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Side

• 1 Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern {see Printer Friendly file at bottom of post}

• 6 lbs polyester fiberfill

• 4-1/2 yards decorative trim or piping

• 4 yards HeatnBond non-woven fusible feather weight interfacing (20″ wide)

*Print out all pages of the Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern. Be sure to print at 100% scale on regular 8.5 x 11″ paper and assemble according to pattern instructions.  

PLEASE NOTE: There will be small gaps in the pattern circle shape where the pages are taped together–this is okay! Do not trim or overlap the pages in an attempt to connect the lines.
 
Once all pages are taped together, cut out the pattern.

Tuffet-Top: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-top fabric. If using a charm pack instead of yardage, refer to the Patchwork Tuffet-Top instructions.
Tuffet-Bottom: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-bottom fabric.

Patchwork Tuffet-Top: You will need 36 of the 42 charm squares; organize them into six rows with six charm squares per row.

Assuming 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the charm squares into their rows, pressing open the seams afterwards. Sew the rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press those seams open as well.

Center the pattern and cut out one circle for your tuffet-top.

INTERFACING OPTION: At this point, I like to iron a feather weight fusible interfacing to the back of each tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom piece. It makes the fabric feel a bit stiffer and gives an overall stability to the shape of the finished product that I really love! Not a requirement though.

EMBELLISHMENT OPTION: Another option is to embellish your tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces with some sort of trim. I’ll use pom-pom trim to demonstrate, but there are many trim options you could use!

In all likelihood, you will need to use a zipper foot to stitch your trim in place.  In general, you’ll want the seam allowance to be about 1/2″.  Because the pom-pom trim is so skinny, I’m going to lay it down 1/4″ in from the raw edge of the fabric, pom-poms on the inside.

Whatever trim you use, I sometimes find it helpful to remember that everything left of the needle/stitching is what is going to show.

Once you’ve sewn almost all the way around, cut the end of the trim to overlap with the beginning-piece and resume stitching it down.

TUFFET SIDE: From the tuffet-side fabric, cut two strips 12″ x WOF; subcut into two 12 x 37″ strips. (Iron fusible interfacing to the back of each if you’ve done it to the tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces.)

 

To sew them into a tube: bring the 12 x 37″ strips right sides together, aligning the raw edges, and pin along the 12″ sides.

[Switch to a regular presser foot and] sew down the 12″ sides using 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 6-7″ gap unstitched in the center of one of those sides as indicated by the diagram below. (This is how we will turn our tuffet right-side out later).

Press open the seams. (Here is the side with the gap.)

 

Pin the edges of the tuffet-top to the top-side of the tube, right sides together. 

UNEMBELLISHED TUFFET: Sew the tuffet-top and tube together using 1/2″ seam allowance.

EMBELLISHED TUFFET: Re-install the zipper foot and sew the the tuffet-top and tube together using the same seam allowance used to sew the trim in place (approximately 1/2″). The easiest way to do this is just sew along the seam showing on the wrong side of the tuffet-top.  (I apologize I neglected to take a picture of this as it makes more sense than what I did–I lined the zipper foot up against the bulk of the pom-pom trim and [blindly] stitched with the tube-side fabric showing on top.)

 

Pin the tuffet-bottom to the other side of the tube, right sides together and repeat.

Turn the tuffet right-side out through the 6-7″ gap in the side.

Your tuffet will look quite sad and saggy without stuffing, so fill it! I stuffed mine pretty full so it would be nice and sturdy.

Once it’s full to your liking, fold the edges in at the hole and pin closed. (This is probably the toughest part of the whole project!) Stitch the hole closed by hand (I recommend a ladder stitch).

 An adorable tuffet!

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

The Dollhouse Pouch

This sweet little pouch is a fun way to store puzzles, books, and any other of your favorite knick-knacks!

(Vintage Modern by Bonnie & Camille)

• 1/2 yard Houndstooth in Pebble Gray

• One fat quarter Floral Dots in Aqua

• One fat quarter Floral Dots in Cream

• One fat quarter Floral Dots in Candy Apple

• One fat quarter Snickerdoodle in Melon 

• One 20 x 36″ scrap of batting 

•  One pkg (3 sets) 7/8″ Velcro squares (non-stick)

•  Therm O Web Super Stik permanent glue stick

• Doorknob embellishment (could be a button, fabric circle, fabric yo-yo, etc.) 

Cutting

• From the Houndstooth in Pebble Gray, cut two 11.5 x 14″ linings, two 4 x 11.5″ blocks, four 4″ blocks, and two 2 x 4″ blocks. 
• From Floral Dots in Aqua, cut one 1.5 x 11.5″ strip, five 2.5 x 3.5″ blocks, eight 1 x 5″ strips, and one 10.5 x 11.5″ block.
• From the Floral Dots in Cream, cut five 2.5 x 3″ blocks. 
• From the Floral Dots in Candy Apple, cut ten 1 x 3″ strips. 
• From the Snickerdoodle in Melon, cut one 4 x 11.5″ block, one 3.5 x 5″ block, and one 2 x 4.5″ block.

Assembly–Assume 1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

1.  To create each window, sew a 1 x 3″ strip (Floral Dots in Candy Apple) on the left/right sides of a 2.5 x 3″ block (Floral Dots in Cream). Press open the seams.

Sew a 2.5 x 3.5″ block (Floral Dots in Aqua) below each window; press open the seams. Make five total.

2.  Referring to arrangement below, lay out the completed window units, the 3.5 x 5″ block for a door (should be Snickerdoodle in Melon), and the eight 1 x 5″ strips (Floral Dots in Aqua) as sashing. Stitch the “top floor” row together; press open the seams. Repeat to stitch the “bottom floor” together, pressing open the seams afterwards.  Sew the two rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand.

3.  To create each roof unit, you will need two 4″ blocks (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray) and one 4 x 11.5″ block (Snickerdoodle in Melon). Draw a diagonal line on the back of each 4″ block; pin right sides together with the 4 x 11.5″ block, as indicated below. Stitch along the drawn line; discard excess 1/4″ outside of the drawn line and press open the seams. Make two total (set one aside for step #5).

4.  To finish the house facade, sew a roof onto the house with the 1.5 x 11.5″ strip (Floral Dots in Aqua) between them, as indicated below.

For the house backside, simply sew the 4 x 11.5″ block (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray) to the 10.5 x 11.5″ block (Floral Dots in Aqua).

5.  For the flap exterior, first you will need to sew together the two 2 x 4″ strips (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray) with the 2 x 4-1/2″ block (Snickerdoodle in Melon) in the order indicated below.  Attach the finished strip to the top of the second roof from step #3. 

6.  Baste the house facade, house backside, and flap exterior to the batting piece using a sticky basting spray (or fusible batting) and insert safety pins to prevent the layers from shifting during quilting.

7.  Quilt as desired (mine was very minimalistic). Trim away the excess batting.

8.  Time to add a doorknob embellishment.  If it weren’t a choking hazard, I would have added a decorative button. Instead, I made a small fabric yo-yo from the Floral Dots in Candy Apple and stitched it on by hand. 

9.  To add a velcro closure, you will need the [quilted] house backside and the 4 x 11.5″ flap lining (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray), a measuring tape, the Velcro squares, and the Super Stik glue stick. (The reason I discourage Sticky Velcro is because it will ruin your sewing machine needle when you stitch it in place.)

Line up the measuring tape along the seam of the house backside.  Apply glue stick to the back of the scratchy-half of the Velcro squares. Place the squares at the 3-1/4″, 5-1/4″, and 7-1/4″ points above the seam.

Apply glue to the back of the remaining Velcro pieces.  To the flap lining: lay the measuring tape 2″ down from the top and place the squares at the 3-1/4″, 5-1/4″, and 7-1/4″ marks.

Stitch the velcro pieces in place using a zigzag stitch around the perimeter.

10.  To finish the flap, bring the flap exterior and lining right sides together, the Velcro-end of the lining should be together with the widest part of the roof.  Pin in place.

 

Stitch along the perimeter, leaving the non-Velcro side of the lining unstitched.

Trim at the corners and turn right-side out.

Press the flap with an iron. Lay the flap (Velcro-side up) onto the house facade, aligning raw edges and pin in place.  The flap should be centered, about 1/2″ in from the sides.

Lay the house backside on top (right sides together) and sew along the sides using 1/2″ seam allowance. Be careful not to get the flap sides caught in the seam.

Press open the seams and turn right-side out.

Stitch the 11.5 x 14 lining pieces right sides together using 5/8″ seam allowance and press open the seams.

Slip the house into the lining, right sides together, making sure the side seams line up, and pin in place.

Stitch along the top using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Remove the pins and turn right-side out.

Tuck the lining to the inside and iron the pouch

Top-stitch along the top (flap out) using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Turn the whole thing inside-out again and pin the bottom closed. Sew along the bottom using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Remove pins and turn right-side out again. Voila!

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}