Hot Cross Candy Runner

Hello again!  This is Darci and Lacey from Pastthyme Patterns with a really quick and easy table runner project using those ever popular candy squares!!  This project comes just in time for the holidays.  It is fast project to complete for that last minute holiday gift. . .or final decoration on your holiday table.  Finished project measures approximately 12″ x 28″ in size.

 To follow more of our quilting adventures you can visit our website where you will find links to our Pastthyme Patterns collection, blog, Facebook page and online site where kits of this fun project can be found!!

 2 candy packs
1/4 yard- Binding
1/2 yard- Backing
1 roll- Chenille-It Blooming Bias (3/8″ width)

Begin by opening up those cute candy squares and laying them out in a 6 down by 14 across layout (as shown above)  Sew together the rows to create your table runner quilt top.

Now that our quilt top is sewn together it’s time to layer it up with your batting and backing.  (As you can see in our photo we spray baste our quilt tops–feel free to baste your runner to the batting and backing as you prefer!!)
Now we are going to add the Chenille-It. . .you know that fun fuzzy stuff!!  By putting this on the layered runner you will essentially be “quilting as you sew” the Chenille-It on. 
 Before I explain how to add the Chenille-It on the runner I want to point out a couple helpful hints.  Remember that just like the package states, the Chenille-It is cut on the bias.  It will stretch out if you pull on it while you sew, while I think over-stretching this is impossible for this project I suggest stretching it in moderation.  It is also spliced together so that you get one long continuous 25-yard roll.  You will notice that there is a “right” and “wrong” side to the splice.  Ideally you want that splice to be raw edges down but DO NOT WORRY if you end up getting your piece twisted and it ends up being right sides up.  When you rag up the Chenille-It, nobody will ever be able to spot where that splice is!!  (Trust us…we speak from experience!!) It’s not worth the ripping time!
 Now the fun part! Place your table runner on a nice, flat surface and grab your Chenille-It and scissors. Referring to the photo above you will notice that we opted to skip every other row.  We did this on purpose to sort of give this project a lattice effect.  You can pick any of the four corners you choose to begin with.  (I am going to direct you from the upper right)  Skip the upper right square. Place the start of your Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the second square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom second lower right square and cut flush.   Skip the next square. Again place the start of the Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the fourth square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom right corner of the fourth lower right square.  Now carefully bring your runner, with the Chenille-It strips over to your machine to be stitched in place.
Stitching of the Chenille-It is quite simple.  Make sure you use thread to coordinate with your Chenille-It color to help camouflage any stitches once the project is complete and simply stitch a straight seam down the center of your Chenille-It strip.  You do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the strip as the edges will be covered up in the binding.  Also don’t get to hung up on having your seam smack dab in the middle. . .if it’s a little off it will be just fine in the end as it will be masked by the ragginess.  Tip:  We find that because we are working with a 3/8″ width of Chenille-It that a quarter-inch sewing foot (or walking foot) works the best for sewing this stuff down.   When we use either of those feet we find that you don’t need to do any pinning because the foot holds the Chenille-It in place during the stitching.  Play around with it while you sew and do what works best for you!!
This is what your first Chenille-It strip will look like once you get your seam sewn.  As you can see my line isn’t perfectly straight. . .but is in flows through the center of the Chenille-It strip.  If yours looks like this, ya did well and it’s time to continue on!!
Continue to add Chenille-It strips like you just did in the steps above to the remainder of your table runner.  Make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille strips.  When you are finished you should have something in front of you that looks like this.
Now if you are like me you will make a quick detour to the kitchen to grab a can of Coke and couple cookies or chips before grabbing the roll of Chenille-It again. . .
To finish up the runner top we are going to add some more Chenille-It.  You will note that we will be adding these going the opposite direction, but following the same format as last time.  For purposes of explaining I am going to direct you from the upper left corner, as shown above.
 Just like last time, you are going to skip the upper left corner.  Begin by laying the start of your Chenille-It strip on the lower left corner of the second square and roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner on the second square at the top and cut flush.  Again, you will skip a square.  Start the end of your Chenille-It strip at the lower left corner of the fourth square and again roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner of the fourth square at the top and cut flush.  Again, carefully bring your runner back to the sewing machine and stitch the Chenille-It strips in place.
Once you have those first two strips sewn you you should see something similar to this in front of you.  Continue to add strips to the project like you did in the steps above.  Again make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille-It strips.
Once you have your Chenille-It strips all sewn down in place your table runner should look like the picture shown above.  Again, if it does, ya did well and you can trim off that excess batting and backing!!
Almost done!!  Now you get to add the binding.  Cut (3) 2 1/2″ strips for your binding.  Sew the binding onto your quilt top.  We chose to put it down hand, so if you choose to do that as well you might want to choose a movie (or TV show) and plop that binding on down. 
Now. . .the final step.  
Referencing a line from the movie “Leap Year” you can just “put it (bound table runner) in the wash.  It’ll be grand!”  Following the manufactures directions you will want to put it into the machine and wash it on a cold cycle.  You can pick up where you left off in that movie you were watching until the machine is done washing.  When the washer is done, simply toss it into the dryer and dry on a warm setting.  Finish up that move just in time for the dryer to end it’s cycle and check out your new project!
Your yield will be one “Hot Cross Candy” runner. . .perfect for a holiday gift or accessory to your table!  Your table runner will measure 12″ x 28″ upon completion.
Remember that the sky is the limit with colors.  Chenille-It comes in all sorts of fun colors to accent any project from Kansas Troubles to Bonnie & Camille and any other Moda designer’s color palate in-between!!

See?!  Even Nature’s Christmas by Sandy Gervais makes up a cute runner!

Darci Schipnewski

Ringlets Table Topper

Thank you for taking a moment to check out my second project for the Bake Shop! I needed to come up with a little something for on top of a table to coordinate with a lap quilt I made. I really enjoyed the process of this topper, and like how it looks more complicated than it actually is! I hope you enjoy making it as much as I have.

1 Collections for a Cause- Comfort charm pack
1/3 yard- Leaves/Orange Peel fabric (Collection for a Cause-Comfort #46113-13) tan
1/3 yard- Outer Border fabric (Collections for a Cause-Comfort #6113-14) dark aqua
1/4 yard- Binding (Collections for a Cause-Comfort #46114-25) brown

1 yard- Heat & Bond Lite
3/4 yard- Backing
26 x 26 piece of batting

**1 Leaves Galore Ruler by Sue Pelland Designs
** 28 mm Rotary Cutter

(**project does not necessarily have to have these 2 things however they are shown in my tutorial below. If you do not have the Leaves Galore ruler or access to purchasing one there will be a leaf in the printer friendly version for you to use.)

Dark tinted invisible thread
Sulky 12-wt. thread in brown (color # 713-1130)

Please use a 1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted

Step One: Select 23 of your favorite charm squares out of the pack. Make sure you have a nice assortment of each color in the pack.

Step Two: Carefully cut each charm square in quarters to yield (4) 2 1/2″ squares.

Step Three: Using the assortment of 2 1/2″ squares, create (9) nine-patch units.

If you are the type of person who is alright with “whatever goes” you may have fun putting all of your squares in a brown paper bag and randomly choosing the colors that go together. I personally like a more planned scrappy look and so I laid out all of my nine-patch units on a flannel wall before I started sewing them together. . .
Step Four: Sew your nine-patch units together, pressing your seams towards your darker colored fabric.

Step Five: Arrange your finished nine-patch units into a 3 x 3 layout and sew together. This creates your main quilt top.

Step Six: Adding the borders. It’s important that you get your most accurate borders by measuring through the center of your quilt top, and along both edges. If the number is the same for all three measurements, use that number as your length. If you get three different numbers, add them together and divide by three to get the average and use that average as your length. Please use the lengths I have given as a guide.

Cut (1) 3 1/2″ strip from the outer border fabric (dark aqua #6113-14)

Using the procedure above, find the appropriate lengths for the top and bottom of your quilt top. I cut mine 3 1/2″ x 18″. Sew top and bottom border strips to your quilt top, pressing the seams towards the border.

Next Cut (2) 3 1/2″ strips from the dark aqua fabric. Using the same procedure as above, find the appropriate lengths for the sides of your quilt. I cut mine 3 1/2″ x 24″. Sew to the quilt top and again press seams towards the border fabric.

Step Seven: Now that your quilt top is finished, layer it with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I chose to stitch in the ditch, using dark tinted invisible thread for the top thread. (This is optional–I prefer to use invisible thread for stitching in the ditch to help camouflage the spots where I may swerve out of the ditch.) Once you have your top quilted, set it aside and we’ll begin to cut your leaves. . .

Cutting the Leaves:

Step One: Taking the 1/3 yard cut of tan fabric open it up and cut it on the fold to get (2) 12″ x 22″ pieces of fabric and set them aside.

Next cut (3) pieces of Heat and Bond Lite 12″ x W.O.F. Place two of your strips aside with the tan fabric. Using the remaining strip cut (2) 5″ x 12″ squares.

Begin fusing by placing one of your 12″ x W.O.F strips of Heat and Bond Lite to the WRONG side of your tan fabric. Iron according to manufacturer’s directions.

Next, align the 5″ x 12″ strip of Heat and Bond Lite to the edge of the strip you just fused down. Once edges are butted together, iron in place.

You have now prepared your first strip. Repeat the above steps for the remaining 12″ x 22″ strip of tan fabric.

Step Two: Peel the Heat and Bond Lite paper off of both of your tan fabric strips and throw it away. Take your prepared strips to a nice sturdy cutting surface. Place one strip, wrong (shiny) side down. Place the second prepared strip on top of the first one, also making sure the wrong (shiny) side is down.

Step Three: Align the fabric edges and grab your Leaves Galore Ruler and 28mm Rotary Cutter.

Step Four: Place your ruler about 1/8″ – 1/4″ away from the edge of your fabric. (Make sure you use the edge of the ruler with the 6″ leaf size on it!!)

Step Five: Starting at the bottom of the ruler, carefully cut in your first serpentine.

You should now be able to move your ruler off of the fabric and gently pull the fabric the fabric away from where you just cut. . .

After pulling the fabric away–it should look a bit like this:

Slide your ruler down one leaf shape, matching up the dashed line of your ruler with the raw edge of the first serpentine shape you have cut.

Carefully slide the ruler over so that dashed line matches up with the raw edge.

Once matched up, carefully cut in your second serpentine shape.

After your first cut, you should have a total of four leaves ready to use on your quilt top.

Align your ruler up close to the edge, as shown below for your second cut and repeat step five.

Cut leaves until you get 24 of them.

If you are confused by the leaf cutting steps above, Sue Pelland has a wonderful step by step YouTube video on her website. Click here for a direct link to her website. The video is on the home page–simply click play and you are ready to go.

Now it’s time to fuse your leaves to your quilt top!

Starting in the bottom left hand corner of your quilt top, place your first leaf so the points line up on the bottom seam of your nine-patch and bottom border. I suggest holding off on fusing them down until you get all four leaves aligned to your liking.

Add your second leaf. . .

And then the third leaf. . .

And finally the last and fourth leaves. . . once lined up-fuse them in place.

Following the steps you just did above, place your leaves over your nine-patch seam lines. Upon completion your quilt top should now look like this. . .

Your quilt top is now finished. You may choose to quilt the fused leaves down however you wish. I chose to featherstitch around all of the leaves using the dark brown 12 wt. Sulky Thread. (Tip: If you decide to use the feather stitch and a 12-wt. thread of any kind you may need to change your needle to a size 120/19 or a 110/18. This should help eliminate any problems you may have with the machine wanting to skip stitches.)

Cut (3) 2 1/2″ binding strip from the brown (#46114-25) to finish your quilt. Bind and enjoy!

Makes one table topper measuring 24″ x 24″.

Thanks for sticking with me through this tutorial. If you have any questions with any of the steps or need some supplies make sure you let me know!

~Darci Schipnewski


Pinwheel Twist

Hello everyone! I am Darci Schipnewski, owner of Shades of the Past in Clara City, Minnesota. I’m so very excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop pattern with all of you! I typically like to work and design with more dark and muted fabrics but with all of the cold and snow this winter Fresh Flowers has become a new favorite of mine!! Thanks for checking out this pattern–I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

1 Fresh Flowers charm pack

1/3 yard Moda Muslin Mates: Sashing (sku: 9918-14)

3/8 yard Sunkissed (by Sweetwater for Moda) yellow: Inner Border (sku: 5445-22)

1/2 yard Fresh Flowers all-over flower: Outer Border (sku: 19451-14)

1/3 yard Fresh Flowers green: Binding (sku: 19452-12)

Lil’ Twister template by CS designs (

1 yard coordinating fabric: Backing

At least a 34″ x 34″ square of batting

Clover Fork Pins

Mary Ellen’s Best Press

Walking foot for quilting

Sulky 12-wt. quilting thread (sku: 713-1001)

All instructions given below assume a 1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted!

Step #1: Select thirty-six of your favorite 5″ squares from your charm pack

Step #2: Using your selected squares, arrange them into a 6 across, 6 down layout

Step #3: Chain stitch charms together to form rows (I suggest pressing seams open, as doing this will help in cutting the twisters out later)

Step #4: Once all rows are sewn, join them together to form your first quilt top. Press seams open.

(Optional: I love to use Clover Fork Pins in this step because they place a pin on either side of your seam giving you more perfect intersections!!)

Step #5: Cut (4) 3″ strips of Sunkissed yellow fabric. Measure through the centers of your quilt top to find accurate length measurements. Sub-cut (2) strips to measure 3″ x *27 1/4″ and (2) strips to measure 3″ x *32″ (make sure you use your length number by the measurement with * by it!!) Sew inner border on quilt top, pressing seams open.

Step #6: You are now ready to cut out your twisters. Inside of your Lil’ Twister package you will find wonderful directions on how to cut out your twisters. However, we’ve got it stepped out below should you prefer the visual!!

Begin, by lining up your template in the top left hand corner of your quilt top

(Top left pic) This is the corner you start on…the top left. Notice (see bottom right) how your align the markings on your Lil’ Twister template on the seam lines. Once you have your template aligned correctly, carefully cut around all four sides with your rotary cutter.

Once you’ve cut around all four sides, you should be able to pull out a unit looking like this.

Continue cutting using the same method you did for the first twister square. I suggest cutting twisters in rows (you’ll be moving right). Once you’ve finished the first row, continue on to row 2 and beyond until you have completely cut up your first quilt top.

As you cut, you’ll notice you are getting left overs that look like this. Make sure you set these aside as they are going to become your sashing corner stones! (This is why it is important to cut carefully around the template. If you are unable to get a 1″ x 1″ square from these scraps, don’t worry. . . use up those extra blocks in your charm pack!!)

Step #7: Once you’ve got all of your twister square cut, lay them out in their proper order, making sure you have perfect pinwheel shapes before sewing

Step #8: Cut (2) 3 1/2″ strips from your Moda Muslin Mates fabric for sashing. Sub-cut your strips to yield (84) 1″ x 3 1/2″ strips

Step #9: Using those scrap squares you saved while cutting your twisters, cut (36) 1″ x 1″ squares to become your sashing corner stones

Step #10: Lay sashing strips in between twister blocks and add corner stones in the sashing intersections until you get your desired layout

Step #11: Strip piece sashing strips to twister blocks. Press seams open. (Sew blocks together to form rows)

Strip piece sashing strips and corner stones. Press seams open.

(Sew blocks together to form rows)

Step #12: Once all rows are sewn, join them together to form your quit top. (Again, I like to use the Clover Fork pins to make sure I am going to get perfect intersections. Also, press seams open.)

Step #13: Once all rows have been sewn together to form your quilt top you can add the outer border. Cut (4) 3 1/2″ strips from the Fresh Flowers all-over floral print. Again, find your quilt top lengths by measuring through the centers of your quilt top.

Sub-cut strips into (2) 3 1/2″ x *24 1/2″ and (2) 3 1/2″ x *30 1/4″ strips. (again, make sure your quilt top length by the *measurement) Press seams towards the outer border.

You are now ready to layer your quilt top with batting and backing and quilt as desired!!

Cut ( 4) 2 1/2″ strips of the Fresh Flowers green for your binding.

In our Garnishes list we mentioned 12-wt. Sulky thread. We LOVE to use this for decorative stitching on many of our quilt shop samples. Above you can see that we chose to feather stitch around the seam that added the outer border. This thread works well to show off those fabulous stitches on many sewing machines. We also chose to stitch in the ditch the sashing strips and used invisible thread for that. Make sure if you decide to use the Sulky 12-wt. thread that you put a regular quilting thread (not Aurfil) in your bobbin.

One 30 1/2″ x 30 1/2″ Pinwheel Twist wall hanging

Please feel free to e-mail me at if you have any questions. Please mention “Moda Bake Shop” in the subject. Enjoy the pattern!

Darci Schipnewski