Back To School Grommet Bag


  • (28) 5” charm squares  (we used Fresh Cottons: Hushabye was used for instruction photos)
  • ⅝ yd lining fabric
  • ⅓ yd straps fabric
  • (1) 20” x 33” piece of batting
  • 1 yd woven interfacing
  • (8) 1” grommets (we used Dritz curtain grommets, no tools needed)


Sewing the outer bag:

1. Sew 7 rows of 4 charm squares. Press rows in opposite directions. Sew rows together as desired to create outer bag unit.

2. Place batting down and put pieced outer bag unit (wrong side down) on batting.

3. Quilt as desired. Trim to 18” x 31 1/2”.

4. From lining fabric, cut (1) 18” x 31 1/2″ rectangle.
5. With right sides together match one of the 31 1/2” sides of the lining and quilted rectangles. Sew using a ½” seam allowance. Press seam toward lining.
6. Fold lengthwise in half as shown. Pin all 3 sides. Using a ½” seam allowance, sew all 3 sides leaving about 4” of the lining section unsewn for turning.
7. Trim corners being careful not to cut through stitching. Turn right side out through 4” opening in lining and poke out corners.
8. Stitch the lining opening closed. Push the lining into the quilted section of bag.
9. Press the top edge of bag and topstitch ⅛”and ¼” from the top edge of bag.
Attaching the grommets:
1. On left side of bag, mark 2” down from top edge of bag and 1 ¼” from side of bag. Then mark 3 ½” from 1 ¼” mark. Repeat marks for right side of bag.
2. Repeat step 1 for other side of bag. You will now have 8 grommet placement marks.

3. Position the template provided with the grommets over the center marks and trace in the slots. Cut out the holes for each grommet on the traced lines.

4. Place the raised center of a grommet in each hole from the right side.
5. Position the pronged side of each grommet over each raised grommet and press down to secure.

Making the Straps:

From the straps fabric and woven interfacing cut:

(2) 5” x 36” strips

1. Fuse the woven interfacing to each strap strip.

2. Fold strap long side in half RST. Stitch using a ¼” seam allowance starting at short end, leaving about 4” opening for turning (along long side) and ending at shut end. Clip short end corners and turn right side out.

3. Top stitch all the way around strap being sure to close opening.

4. Thread one strap through the 4 grommet holes on one side of the bag. Repeat for the other side.

5. Tie ends of the two straps together.

Enjoy your grommet bag!!!
Hey ya’ll I hope you like our Grommet Bag….they are addicting and super easy to make! 

* 2 Charm Packs will make 3 bags!
* You can always add pockets to the insde with left over charm squares!!
* These make great gifts!

Jamie Mueller
{www.jamiemueller.blogspot.com}

CANDY HEARTS QUILT ♥ ♥ ♥




CANDY HEARTS
This quilt is perfect for that favorite little girl of yours or even as a whimsical Valentine’s Day throw.  Bind it or add a ruffle for extra charm!
 
All fabrics are Plume by Tula Pink

 
 
1 charm pack
1 1/2 yards of light background fabric
6 jelly roll strips for sashing
7 yards of jumbo ric rac
1/2 yard for binding
3 yards for backing (you will have some left over, which you could use for the binding if you want 🙂

2 yards for ruffle










1.  Create a heart template by cutting a 5″ square piece of paper.  Fold it in half and cut out half a heart that measures exactly 4 3/4″ from top to bottom.
  
 

2.  Fold one charm square in half, right sides together.  Place the folded heart template on the fold of your fabric and trace with a pencil.  With fabric still folded, cut out the half-heart on the traced line.  Repeat with 34 more charm squares to make a total of 35 hearts.  Set hearts aside.


 



3.  Cut out five 7 1/2″ x width of fabric strips out of the light background fabric.  Trim each strip down to 40 1/2″. 


4.  To mark the placement of the hearts, fold each strip in half and iron on the fold to mark the center.  Then fold the two ends into the center mark and iron on those two folds.  Lastly, fold the two ends in again meeting at the last two fold marks, creating a total of 5 fold marks in the strip.  The placement for the last two hearts is exactly 5″ to the right of the second fold mark and the fourth fold mark. Use a clear ruler to measure 5″ away from those fold lines and then line up the center of the two hearts there.





5.  Lay out the hearts on the fold marks according to the diagram below:

 
  

6.  Center the heart on the fold marks with the point of the heart 1 3/8″ away from the edge of the fabric. Pin or glue baste into place.  I used a few dots of Appli-glue on each half of the heart.
 

7.  Sew 1/4″ inside edge of hearts creating a raw edge that will fray when washed.  Clip threads on front and back.  Repeat for all 5 strips of hearts.

8.  For sashing: Use a pencil to mark a line down the middle of each jelly roll strip. Pin or glue baste a piece of ric rac onto the marked line, leaving an inch or two on either end in case of fraying (trim just before sewing on borders). 

 

Outer curves of ric rac will be about 1/2″ away from edge of jelly roll strips. 

Stitch down the middle of the ric rac using a thread color that blends.


 
Repeat with the other 5 sashing strips.

9.  Sew heart rows and sashing strips together, beginning and ending with sashing strips.  Press seams towards sashing.  Trim ric rac after all of the rows of hearts and sashing are sewn together.

10.  For borders:  Cut five 2 1/2″ x width of fabric background fabric for the borders.  

 
Trim two of the strips to 40 1/2″ and sew to the top and bottom of the quilt top.  Sew the other 3 strips end to end.  Measure through the middle of the quilt from top to bottom.  Cut two border strips that length and sew to the sides of your quilt.  Press seams towards border.  

11.  To piece your back, cut your 3 yards of fabric in half to make two 1 1/2 yard cuts.  Cut off the selvages and then sew the two long edges together.  This will create a horizontal seam on the back of your quilt.  You will have some left over, which you could use for your binding if you want.    

12.  Quilt and bind! If you wish to do a ruffle instead of a regular binding, then continue reading…

 Ruffle Instructions

If you wish to do a ruffle, then leave 1/2″ of unquilted space around the entire edge of the quilt.  When your quilt is done being quilted DO NOT trim your batting and backing to line up with the quilt top (like you normally would after it’s quilted).  Instead, trim the back and batting so that they’re about an inch or so bigger than the top.
 
1.  Create the ruffle:  Cut twelve 6″ strips of fabric.  Cut off selvages.  Sew all of the pieces end to end and then sew the beginning and the ending edges together to make one big ring of fabric.  Make sure that it’s not twisted.  

2.  Iron the entire ring of fabric in half with wrong sides together.
 

3.  Gather the ruffle: Use DMC floss and a zig zag stitch to make the “pull” to gather the fabric. 


First, set your zig zag on its longest stitch length.  You’ll also need to adjust the width of the zig zag so that it doesn’t go past 1/4″ from the raw edge of the fabric.  You might want to do a practice run to get the settings just right.

Hold the DMC floss under the center of where your zig zag will be and go back and forth (in place) a couple of times to secure the floss.  Leave a few extra inches of floss hanging at the beginning to grab onto when it’s time to gather.  Continue centering the floss under the zig zag while you sew the entire edge around your ring of ruffle fabric.
 


Sew back and forth again at the end to secure the floss.  Leave a few extra inches of floss at the ending point as well.  

4.  Mark the two halfway points of the ring of fabric and pin those to opposite corners of the quilt.  Working with the fabric between two points, pull the DMC floss while cinching up the fabric.  Work with it until the fabric is evenly dispersed over that half of the quilt and then do the same on the opposite side of the quilt.  

5.  Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, sew the ruffle onto the  front of your quilt top being VERY careful not to catch the batting or the backing under your stitches. 

6.  After you’ve sewn the entire ruffle, on use scissors to trim the batting about 1/8″ away from your seam. 

7.  Hand stitch the backing onto the ruffle, turning under the raw edge as you go.  

 






45″ x 54″ quilt

‘Sweet Menagerie’ nine-patch quilt


'Sweet Menagerie' nine-patch quilt

by Roslyn Mirrington of Bloom

This easy-to-piece quilt is made from Tula Pink’s delicious new line, ‘Hushabye’. In her inimitable style, she has cleverly hidden a menagerie of cute creatures in her fabrics ready for you to discover.

1 x jelly roll Moda ‘Hushabye’ by Tula Pink (23040JR)
1 x jelly roll Moda Basics ‘Milk’ (9900-98JR)
0.5 yard coordinating fabric for border
fabric for backing & binding

Sorting fabric strips

Sort the ‘Hushabye’ jelly roll fabrics into:

  • 24 x strips for block borders
  • 2 x lightest strips for ‘lights’ for nine-patch blocks
  • the remaining strips will be used as ‘darks’ for nine-patch blocks.


Cutting

From the 24 strips you have chosen as your block borders, cut 2 x 10.5″ lengths, and 2 x 6.5″ lengths.
From the 2 lightest strips, cut a total of 28 x 2.5″ squares (7 sets of 4).
From the white jelly roll strips, cut 68 x 2.5″ squares (17 sets of 4).
From the remaining Hushabye strips, cut 120 x 2.5″ squares (24 sets of 5)

Piecing the blocks

A total of 24 blocks is required. All seams are 0.25″.
To make the nine-patch block centre, lay out 5 x 2.5″ Hushabye squares and 4 light/white squares, in three rows of three. Sew the squares together to make up the rows. Press the seams towards the darker squares.
Sew the rows together to form a nine-patch.

Sew a 6.5″ border strip to either side of a nine-patch.


Then sew a 10.5″ border strip to the remaining sides of the nine-patch.

Make 24 blocks in this way. The finished block size should be 10.5″ square.

Assembling the quilt top

Lay all 24 of the 10.5″ blocks out, with 4 blocks across and 6 blocks down. Arrange the blocks until you are satisfied with the layout.

From five white jelly roll strips, cut 18 x 10.5″ lengths. Sew the blocks together in six rows of four, piecing a 2.5″ x 10.5″ white strip between each block.

Take your remaining white jelly roll strips, remove selvedge edges and join short ends together to make one very long, continuous strip.

Measure the width of your rows of blocks. In a perfect world, this measurement will be 46.5″.

From the long, white continuous strip, cut 7 x 46.5″ strips. Sew the rows together, piecing a 2.5″ x 46.5″ white strip between each row and at the top and bottom of your quilt.

NOTE: As you sew the rows together, take care that the blocks are vertically aligned. Before joining subsequent rows of blocks, I extend a line from the previous row of blocks through the white tramming, and mark the lower edge with pencil (see picture below). I then pin the next row of blocks to these marks. This ensures your blocks line up perfectly.

Measure the length of your quilt. It should measure 74.5″. From the long, continuous white strip, cut two 74.5″ strips. Sew to the sides of your quilt.

Adding the borders
1. Pale blue border
Cut seven 2.5″ strips across the width of your 0.5 yard of coordinating fabric. Remove the selvedge edges and join the short ends together to make one long, continuous strip. From this strip, cut two 50.5″ lengths and sew to the top and bottom of your quilt. Cut a further two 78.5″ lengths and sew to either side of your quilt.
2. White border
From the long, continuous white strip, cut two 54.5″ lengths and two 82.5″ lengths and sew to the top, bottom and sides of the quilt, as for the pale blue border.
3. Pieced border
From the remaining Hushabye prints and white strips, cut 72 x 2.5″ coloured squares and 72 x 2.5″ white squares.
NOTE: Be sure at this point to use any small pieces of the white jelly roll before you cut into your long continuous strip. You will need 306″ of white to finish the final border. You should have ample, but just double check before cutting!
Starting and ending with a white square, join 15 white squares and 14 coloured squares in an alternating strip. Make two of these strips and add to the top and bottom of your quilt.
Starting and ending with a coloured square, join 22 coloured squares and 21 white squares, as before. Make two of these strips and add to either side of your quilt.
4. Final white border
From the long, continuous white strip, cut two 62.5″ lengths and two 90.5″ lengths and sew to the top, bottom and sides of the quilt.
Back, quilt and bind your quilt as desired. I used every last inch of fabric to piece the backing.

Belinda Betts of Eucalypt Ridge Quilting brought this quilt alive with her wonderful quilting. The quilting design is called Retro Feathers by Anne Bright.

1 x cute & cuddly ‘Sweet Menagerie’ nine-patch quilt, approximately 66.5″ x 90.5″.

Ribbon Blanket and Block

I thought this would make such a cute gift for a new baby. I’ve never had one for any of my babies, (and wouldn’t you know it I’m having a boy so this cute girly one won’t work) but I’ve heard babies just love them. Both are easy and quick to make. Ribbon blanket measures approx. 18 1/2″ square, block is about 4″ square.

Block:

6 squares from Hushabye charm pack by Tula Pink.
6 Five inch squares of thin batting (I used Warm and Natural).
12 pieces of different ribbons cut into 5″-6″ pieces.
Your favorite fiber fill or stuffing to fill the finished block.

Ribbon Blanket
16 squares from Hushabye Charm pack by Tula Pink.
1 – 20″ piece of thin batting (I used Warm and Natural).
1 – 20″ coordinating piece of minky fabric.
12 – 16 pieces of different ribbon, cut into 5″ – 6″ pieces.

Block:

Step One –
Pick 6 – 5″ square pieces from your Hushabye charm pack.
Cut 6 – 5″ squares from batting
Cut 12 ribbons into 5″ – 6″ pieces.


Step 2 – Layer pieces for sewing. Layer batting, fabric, ribbon pinned in the center, fabric (right sides facing together on fabric pieces), batting and pin.

Step 3 – Measure in 1/2″ on all corners of batting and make a mark. This will need to be done to all pieces of batting.

Step 4 – Starting on the side of the fabric stack that you pinned, start sewing at the 1/2″ mark using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Sew until you get to the next 1/2″ mark on the same side.

Step 5 – Follow steps 2 through five until you have sewn four 5″ squares together with the ribbon pinned in the middle.

Step 5 – Sew the 1st and 4th squares together. Below is how it should look when this is done.

Step 6 – Pin ribbon onto top and bottom of block. Four on the top and four on the bottom.

Step 7 – Open top left corner at the 1/2 mark and pin on 5″ fabric piece and 5″ piece of batting. Next do the same at the top right corner, also pin again where the ribbon is.

Sew across the top starting and stopping at the 1/2″ marks. Next, pin the bottom the same way and sew, and then repeat process on the sides.

It should look similar to this on the corners. Repeat step 7 for the bottom of the block. Be sure to leave a 3″ opening on one of the seams on the bottom so that you can turn the block right side out. Use your favorite type of stuffing and fill block, then hand stitch the opening on the bottom closed.

Ribbon Blanket

Step 1 – Pick 16 of your favorite squares from your charm pack and lay them out how you want them to look.

Step 2 – Sew together one strip at a time, then sew strips together pining at the seams.

Step 3 – Once all blocks are sewn together start pining the ribbon on the out side of the block in the center. On the corners I only used one ribbon, but it would look cute with two also.

Step 4 – Cut your minky fabric and batting to match the size of the top of your blanket. Place right sides of minky fabric and the top of your ribbon blanket together pinning on the seams. Sew around entire blanket leaving about a 4 – 5″ opening on one of the sides so you can turn it right side out.

Step 5 – Using one of your favorite stitches on your machine sew around the entire ribbon blanket, using about 1/2″ seam allowance. I’m not sure I would choose the stitch I used again. You really have to pull the fabric through the machine, and it was hard to make this stitch look uniform.

And ta da, your finished.


A very cute ribbon blanket and ribbon block for your very favorite baby. If you’d like to make one of these for yourself, be sure and come visit my blog. I’m having a giveaway for a free Hushabye Charm pack and enough ribbon and batting to make your very own block or. I think I’ll throw in another surprise charm pack as well. I also have another fun Halloween giveaway going on right now you’ll have to check out.

Hushabye Tote Bag and Coin Quilt




1 Hushabye Jelly Roll
Yardage for Lining
Yardage for Front and Back Panel of Tote.
Fusible Fleece
Medium to Heavyweight Interfacing

I used the left over Jelly Roll strips from the Tote Bag to make a Coin Quilt based on Amandajean’s Stacked Coins Quilt tutorial. Instead of cutting charm squares in half, I cut the Jelly Roll strips at 5″. You can find her tutorial HERE.


CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS:

Tote Bag Front & Back:
from Fabric – Cut 2 @ 14″ x 15 1/2″
from Fusible Fleece – Cut 2 @ 14″ x 15 1/2″
Tote Bag Lining:
from Fabric – Cut 2 @ 14″ x 15 1/2″
from Interfacing – Cut 2 14″ x 15 1/2″
Front Pocket:
from Jelly Roll Strips – Cut 16 @ 10″ (for outside pocket)
from Fabric – Cut 2 @ 9 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ (pocket lining)
from Fusible Fleece – Cut 2 9 1/2″ x 15 1/2″
Handle:
Choose 2 strips (I like using the same color)
from Fusible Fleece – Cut 1 @ 2 1/2″ x 44″

Iron 14″ x 15.5″ Fusible Fleece to wrong side of front and back pieces.


To make Outside Pockets;
Sew 8 – 10″ Jelly Roll Strips together twice (for back and front pockets).

Iron 9″ x 15 1/2″ Fusible Fleece to wrong side of Pocket pieces.

Quilt as desired. Now lay the trim piece right sides together at top of pocket,
then lay the pocket lining piece on top of trim, pin well.

Sewing pocket lining, trim and pocket front.

(I used muslin for my pocket lining and a Brown Jelly Roll
strip ironed in half and ironed in half again for the trim.

Fold lining piece up as shown in next photo and press.

Then fold lining piece to the back and press again.
The seam is bulky, so you may need to use some pins and perhaps
top stitch, so lining doesn’t show. Lay pocket pieces right side up, on top of Front and Back Panels.
The Pocket pieces might be a little larger
than the Front and Back Panels, Center the pocket piece
and then trim to fit.
Sew a couple seams from top to bottom of pocket,
to make outside pockets.


A close up view of the outside pocket.
I created 3 pockets on each side of the Tote Bag,
by sewing 2 seams on each side.

Handle:
Sew 2 strips together.
Press each raw edges into the centerIron 2 1/2″ x 44″ long fusible fleece to center of handle.
See photo.

Fold raw edges towards middle again,
Fold in half, pressing and pinning as you go.

I like to stitch 3 times down the handle for looks and strength.
Cut handle in half. Now you have 2 handles.
Place Handles aprox 3″ in from each side of the bag front and bag back.
Sew a scant 1/4″ to hold handles in place.
Create your own pockets for inside of Tote Bag.
I used scraps of Jelly Roll Strips, sewn together
to form a pocket. Sew pocket to lining.
Place bottom of pocket 5″ up from bottom of lining.


Here is the small Cell Phone pocket I made.
And a larger pocket for keys and misc.
Sew front and back panels right sides together leaving the top open.
Cut a 3″ square template.
Lay it on the bottom corners of the bag.
Front and Back.
Trace with a pen or pencil.

Box the corners and sew along the line.
Cut the excess fabric about 1/4″ to 1/2″ from seam line. Sew lining right sides together, leaving a good amount of space
on the bottom, open for turning.

Do the same for the lining.
Turn the lining right side out.

Place the lining in the Tote Bag, matching side seams.
Pin around the entire top.
Stitch the top of the Tote Bag all the way around.

Put your hand through the lining opening and turn the bag
right side out. Press the top edge. Top stitch.

You’re all done!
This is a great size for a purse. Not too wide and a little deeper than most.
Or it would make a great Diaper Bag too.
If you want to create a solid bottom for your bag.
You’ll need a firm piece of cardboard covered in
fabric to put in the bottom.
The cardboard should measure approx. 5 1/2″ x 9″

What a great gift this would make for a new mom! A cute tote bag she can either use for herself or as a diaper bag, with a matching quilt. Finished size of Tote Bag is approx. 10.5″ tall x 5.5″ deep x 14″ wideFinished Size of Quilt is approx. 41″ x 50″
{for quilt instructions, see Amandajean’s MBS Tutorial, HERE}


The Candy Box {youth quilt}

the candy box finishes at 50″x60″ and is a perfect youth quilt

i made mine out of hushabye and it is adorable!

1 Charm Pack


1 Layer Cake


1 yd border – Dragonfly Brown 23018-41

1/3 yd inner border – Droplets Pink 23002 45



3 1/2 yds backing if print is directional (piece vertically)
3 yds if you pick a different not directional print (piece horizontally)
I used Bunny Damask Brown 23006-44 and needed 3 1/2 yds


Scrappy binding from Layer Cake leftovers

Cutting Mat with printed grid.
10 1/2″ or larger square ruler
PDF Template – {the last page of the printable version.}

1. Start by Planning out your quilt.
Each block will use one charm and 2 Layer Cake pieces. I’ll be using a-d throughout the tutorial to help guide you.

You can “audition” colors in blocks by folding the one LC diagonally on top of another and putting the charm in the center. {see below on design wall}
It will give you an approximate view of what the block will look like.
If you want a scrappy unplanned look you can skip this step.

2. Once you have the 20 blocks planned its time to start cutting. Start by working with one block at a time.

3. The layer cake pieces need to be cut down to 6×10. Is the print is not directional it does not matter what side you cut from. If the print is directional you will need to pay attention. If the LC will be the side triangles {a & c} or top and bottom triangles {b & d}. If it is going to be the sides you want to cut the 4″ section off one side. It it is going to be the top and bottom you will want to cut the 4″ section off the top or bottom.
4. Now you need to slice it into the two units. This isn’t difficult but if you aren’t paying attention it is easy to mess up. Luckily I only messed up once and you have 2 extra Layer Cake pieces!
Line your 6×10 piece up with the grid on your mat. You want to line your ruler up 2″ down on the left and 2″ up on the right. This should give you a 45 degree angle that will slice your piece diagonally from top left to bottom right. To be sure this is where it helps to line up the template you printed and cut out. The piece you are cutting should be a bit bigger. {do not use the template to cut your fabric.. it is only to help you line things up.. also i added a grain line on the one for you guys} cut!

For top/bottom {b & d} pieces that are directional you’ll want to put them on your cutting board horizontally. Measure in 2″ from the bottom left and 2″ in from the top right and repeat all other steps.

5. Now you need to trim off a little triangle. Line your ruler up with the line you just cut and the point of the piece at 2 1/2″ Cut.
{the template helps here too}

I found it easiest to cut one block and sew one block– much less chance of mixing pieces up. This is where a design wall is extremely helpful.

Now it is time to sew. The only “difficult” thing here is partial seams… but they are not hard!! The outside pieces have 2 long edges and 2 short… but they are NOT mirror images. 2 sides are bias and 2 are not. Make sure you keep the straight of grain edges on the outside and attach the bias edges to the charm.
6. Pick one outside piece {a} and your charm. line them up and sew 1/2 way down the charm.

7. Stop and remove. Iron the seam out and away from the charm. All seams for this quilt will be away from the charm. It does not matter that your pieces are hanging and not all sewn together. we’ll get there.
8. We are going to continue to piece the block in a counter clockwise manner. Add piece {b} and sew the entire seam. Press out.

9. Repeat to add {c}
10. Lastly add {d} and sew the entire seam. Press out.
11. Now that piece {d} has been put on you have what you need to finish sewing seam #1 to attach {a}. Finish sewing and press out. You have finished one block!
12. The beauty of this block is none of the angular seams line up with each other when sewing all the blocks together. So it leaves a good amount of “fudge” room. Use your 10 1/2″ or larger square ruler to trim your block up to 10 1/2″square. Do your best to keep the charm on a 45 degree angle. ( The center of the charm should be at 5.25″)
13. Repeat for 19 more blocks. Once you get the hang of it they go fast. I got the entire top with borders and all done in one day with some breaks and distractions too!
14. Once all 20 blocks are done sew the rows. Press seams in each row in the opposite direction of the next. Then sew all the rows.
15. Attach inner borders.
Inner border – cut (Cut 5 WOF x 1.5 and piece)
(2) 1 1/2″ x 50.5″ (or the length of your top)
(2) 1 1/2″ x 42.5″ (or the width of your top with the side borders on)
16. Attach outer borders.
Outer border – cut – (Cut 6 WOF x 4.5 and piece)
(2) 4 1/2″ x 52.5″ (or the length of your top w/ inner border)
(2) 4 1/2″ x 50.5″ (or the width of your top with both side borders on)
17. Layer & Quilt. I did a loopy design in brown thread on the top & bottom.
18. Use the 4×10 leftover Layer Cake pieces to make a scrappy binding. You’ll need about 230″ I cut mine to 2.25 x 10 and sewed them together on an angle.

one adorable quilt!!

want a kit? 2 great shops are offering them!

Elkhorn Quilt Company has hushabye kits
and
The Quilt Shoppe will be offering kits of “the candy box” in an assortment of moda collections very shortly

fyi..

You may notice that the outside the pieces create secondary pinwheels. You can make them the focus by using the same fabric in the center and planning out your LC pieces to have 4 of the same color in each corner. For this you would need 2 layer cakes and 1/2 yd of the fabric you want to be in the center of the blocks. See the image below for a sample made out of Simple Abundance.

I have 9 blocks cut and on my design wall. You need to cut and plan this way because the four pieces that will make each “pinwheel” will actually be in 4 different blocks. I’m not sure if I’m going to stop here and make a table topper or keep going and make a large quilt. Stop by my blog and let me know what you think I should do!
Enjoy!
by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Puppy and Kitty Softies


Made from the ♥ by Vickie E aka mid-ohio quilter
Read all directions carefully before beginning this project.

• Hushabye Layer Cake Moda sku# 23040LC
• DMC pearl cotton size 8 DMC #776, #3348, Valdani #8
• Clover yo-yo makers Jumbo, Large, Small & X-small
• scrap brown wool felt
• poly stuffing
• pencil, needle, thread, pins
• Pinking Shears
• purple thang
• embroidery hoop
• stabilizer for embroidery
• water soluble pen or brown pigma pen
• a small scrap light weight heat n bond


•Begin by choosing 3 of your 10 inch squares, preferably at least one that has a circle print.


• Cut out 2 ‘eyes’ with out 1/8 of an inch around the edge as shown.


• Using the JUMBO clover yo-yo maker or other 7-inch circle template. Trace with a pencil or water erasable pen on the wrong side (WS) of one of your “body” fabrics.
• *Tip* trace the ‘bumps’ on the yo-yo maker and use to align your circles when you sew them together.

• Print the templates for the ears, arms, legs and faces. Make a paper template by cutting out on the line. This is your sewing line.
• *Note* click on picture to enlarge and print

• Place the 2 “body” fabrics right sides together (RST) and pin to prevent shifting.
• Using the templates trace around the ears, legs/arms.


• This is the way the fabric will look. Sew around the solid lines of the ears, arms and legs…leaving the bottom open for turning. Set aside.


• Cut out the body pieces AFTER you sew the arms, legs and ears. Set pieces aside.
• Trace the face onto the circle with a water soluble pen or brown pigma pen.
• Using pinking shears…trim the ‘eye’ fabrics as shown.

• Using Size 8 pearl cotton to match the fabrics sew fabric eyes onto face.
• Pink DMC #3348
• Green DMC #776
• Brown Valdani #8
• Use a running stitch to outline and attach the eyes.

• Trace the nose template onto fusible light weight heat n bond. Adhere to wool felt.
• Cut out on the line and peel paper backing and iron to kitty “front” fabric. *note* if you use a blue water soluble pen…heat will set the pen and it will not rinse away.

• Using an embroidery hoop, use a running stitch to make the whiskers and mouth.
• Stitch a buttonhole around the brown nose.
• IF you used a water erasable pen…rinse out BEFORE you turn your piece or iron!


• Cut out arms, legs and ears with a scant 1/8 inch seam allowance.
• Clip inner curve of arms and legs before turning.


•Turn out all pieces shown. *note* 2 legs face right, 2 face left!
•Lightly stuff with polyfil and a purple thang


• With softies face up; pin arms, legs and ears.
• *note* the appendage fabric you want to face the front of the softie needs to be pinned “DOWN” and the fabric to the back fabric needs to be “UP”.

• Lay the ‘back’ fabric RST with the front fabric.

• Pin, Pin, Pin….all the way around easing excess If there is any.

• Pinch back fabric and snip a 1.5 inch slit in the fabric.

• Turn right side out.

• Iron and stuff firmly with polyfil.

• Slip stitch opening closed.

• Using the 3 sizes of yo-yo maker and scraps make:
• 5 x-small yo-yo’s
• 1 small yo-yo
• 1 large yo-yo

• Take completed yo-yo and quilting thread and string 5 yo-yo’s together.

• Knot the thread but do NOT cut it.


• Add the small yo-yo and knot thread, do not cut the thread.


• Finally the large one can be sewed on the small and appliqued to cover the opening.


•Back view of the puppy…made with just 1 large yo-yo for a more baby friendly toy.


• Back side of both softies.

One layer cake could make several softies. I hope you enjoy the designs as they were made from my ♥ for my little girls.