Sunny Steps Quilt

Hi, my name is Alison Tudor of Sew and Tell Quilts. Sunny Steps was inspired by Kate Spain’s Sunnyside line and my love of  3D and geometric designs. While this quilt looks great in these middle volume colors, it also looks great in solids and bold prints. Don’t let paper piecing scare you away from this pattern. This is a very simple paper piecing project. The only tricky part to this quilt is getting all the prints in the right place.

Come and visit me at any time.


  • 3⅛ yards of Bella Solids white (9900-98)
  • 1 fat quarter bundle of Sunnyside by Kate Spain
  • ¾ yard of Sunnyside Prism Blaze for the middle border
  • 2 yards of Sunnyside Skyward Sprig for the outer border and binding (or ½ yard of a different print if you choose to use a contrasting binding)
  • 4¼ yards backing fabric
  • 72″ x 72″ piece of batting
  • Foundation pattern pieces (in Printer Friendly Version)

Pay close attention to the Quilt Layout Diagram as fabric placement is very important. You may choose to cut your strips slightly larger than indicated if you are new to foundation piecing. Make a test block before cutting all of your fabric.

Cutting Directions
 Select 32 fat quarters from the bundle. Choose a good mix of light and dark prints.

From each fat quarter cut: 
2 – 4″ x wof strips, sub cut each into one 11″ x 4″ strip (for block centers) and one 4″ x 5″ strip (for block corners)
1 – 3 1/2″ x wof strip, sub cut  into two 3 1/2 x 5″ strip (for block corners)

From the white fabric cut: 
28 – 3″ x wof strips, sub cut into six 3″ x 6″ pieces (for blocks)

From middle border fabric, cut 6 strips measuring 2½”” x WOF

From outer border fabric, cut 7 strips measuring 4½” x WOF

From the binding fabric, cut 7 strips measuring 2½” x WOF 

Making the Blocks
This quilt looks complicated but consists of two simple blocks, A and B. Don’t let paper piecing scare you. This is an easy paper pieced project, good for a first time paper piecer.

Block A

Block B

Foundation patterns for Blocks A and B can be found in the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of this post. 

  1. Make 32 copies of each of the paper-foundation pattern blocks and trim the pattern to a comfortable size, leaving at least 1/4˝ around the outside cutting line. 
  2. Place a 11” x 3-1/4” rectangle right side up on the blank (unmarked) side of the pattern. Make sure the fabric covers the entire area by at least 1/4˝ on all sides and pin in place. Place a 11” x 2-3/4” white rectangle on top of  the print rectangle, right sides together. With the marked side of the paper foundation up and the fabrics on the bottom, sew on the line between areas 1 and 
  3. Fold the paper pattern back and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝. Open the fabrics so that both pieces are right side up and press. 
  4.  Fold the paper back along the next seam line, between areas 2 and 3. Trim the fabric so that it extends 1/4˝ past the folded line. This trimming creates a straight edge upon which you can line up your next fabric piece, making the placement easier. 
  5.  Place a 4” x 2-1/2” corner rectangle on top of white piece and sew on the line between areas 2 and 3. Flip open the triangle and press. 
  6.  Repeat steps 4 and 5, adding white and print rectangles in numerical order until the pattern is completely covered with fabric pieces. Press the unit. 
  7.  Use a rotary cutter to trim away the excess fabric around the block, leaving a 1/4˝ seam allowance all around the outer sewing line. The block should measure 7” square. 

Quilt Layout Diagram 

Make the Borders
Join the 1 1/2″ wide white strips end to end. Measure the length of the quilt, it should measure 56″, cut two strips to this length.  Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top, it should measure 58″. Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top for the inner border.

For middle border join  2 1/2″ wide strips end to end. Measure the length of the quilt, it should measure 58″.  Cut two strips to this length.  Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top, it should measure 62″. Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top.

For the outer border join 4 1/2″ strips  end to end.  Measure the length of the quilt, it should measure 62″. Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top, it should measure 70″.   Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top to complete the borders.

Quilt Assembly
Lay out the blocks in 8 rows of 8 blocks each as shown in the quilt layout diagram. Join the blocks in rows and then join the rows. Add the 1 1/2” white inner border, the 2-1/2” middle border and the 4-1/2” outer border. Layer the quilt top with batting and backing; baste.

Quilt as desired. Detail in photo below shows how I quilted mine.

Piece binding strips end-to-end on the bias and press seams. Press in half lengthwise to create single-fold binding. Attach to quilt using your preferred binding method.

 This was quilted with a stair-step straight-line pattern. Finished quilt measures 70″ x 70″

Alison Tudor

Sunnyside Stars Quilt

Hello again!  This is Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts with yet another Moda Bake Shop project for you!  This one is super quick and EASY, I promise!  If you have a layer cake that has larger prints that you just hate to cut down into small pieces, this is a perfect pattern for that!  It has nice large blocks that will show off those wonderful prints!  Let’s get started!

1 layer cake (Sunnyside by Kate Spain)
1 jelly roll (Sunnyside by Kate Spain)
1/3 yard of 2 different prints (each cut into four 10” squares)
3 2/3 yard Moda Bella Solid (Snow) cut into fifty 10” squares)
3/4 yard print for binding (or you can use 10 strips left from your jelly roll for a scrappy binding)
6 2/3 yards print for backing

Your layer cake will contain 42 squares.  Since the base of this pattern is made from 100 HST’s, you will need 50 print squares and 50 solid squares.  So, from your 1/3 yard cuts of 2 different fabrics, cut four 10” squares from each, so you will now have 50 print squares.
Cut fifty 10” squares from your Bella solid yardage.

On the wrong side of your solids, draw one diagonal line from corner to corner.  Pair the solids with the prints (right sides together) and stitch a scant 1/4” from the each side of the line.  Continue with all 50 pairs.


Cut each of the 50 pairs on the line drawn.

Press each section open to reveal 100 large HST’s.  Do not square them up yet. Set aside 36 of your HST’s.  Lay one at a time of the remaining 64 HST’s on your cutting mat with the lower left corner matching up with lines on your cutting mat.  You will be cutting a wedge off the solid portion 2” down from the top/left corner and 2” over from the bottom/left corner.


You will now have 64 pieces that look like this.  The scrap to the left is waste.

Now, take 16 strips from your jelly roll and cut the selvages off and cut them into quarters.  This will yield approximately 11” long strips (64 total).
Take a strip and line it up (right sides together) with the cut edge of one of your HST’s.  Make sure it hangs over the top edge by at least 1/4”.


Stitch 1/4” along  the edge of the strip.
Press open.

Now, you can square up your blocks to a perfect 9.5” square.  If you didn’t do a *scant* 1/4” when you stitched on either side of the line, you might find it difficult to get the full 9.5” square.  You can trim them to 9.25” if you like, just as long as they are all the same. You can also square up your 36 HST’s that you set aside that didn’t get the wedge shape (the same size as the ones with the wedge).


Now that you have your 100 sub-blocks ready, I suggest matching them up into 25 sets of 4.
There will be 9 sets with all four sections with wedges.


There will be 16 block sets with 2 wedge sections and 2 plain HST sections.


And there will be 4 sets with only one wedge section and 3 plain HST sections.


Now, arrange your blocks so that the plain HST sections are on the border and sew together.  You now have a finished quilt top that should measure 90.5”x90.5”.

Since this is such a large quilt top, you will need to piece your backing in several pieces (unless you use a wide backing material).  This is one option for piecing your backing.


This is the backing on this finished quilt – I decided to piece it using 2 different prints – the yellow from Sunnyside and the blue from a print from Cuzco (a previous collection print also by Kate Spain for Moda)

I was playing with options for this quilt, and I think it would look wonderful if you used all the same print for the stars as well:
If you wanted to go this route, you could use 1 1/8 yards of a print for your stars in place of the partial jelly roll.   OR, if you wanted to use a Bella solid, you would only need 5/8 of a yard because you can use the cut-off pieces from your wedges when you square up the blocks to use on another block since Bella solids are reversible!  I like this idea since I hate to see any waste 🙂


Here is a mock-up of what it would look like using S’more Love (making it smaller).  I love the contrast with this fabric line.


After you have finished piecing the top, layer your quilt top/batting/backing and quilt as desired!  This was my first experience with longarm quilting a quilt, and I can’t wait to try the next!  I’m hoping to do FMQ next time!  This was a pre-programmed pattern on a computerized longarm that I ‘rented’ time on.

I love the texture of a freshly washed quilt!

approx 90”x90” quilt

Karin Vail

Quilted Patchwork Pouch

Hi!  I’m Julie from  My main love is quilting but I always enjoy making a good pouch.  Zipper bags are fun to make whether you are a seasoned quilter or just started sewing. Is there really such a thing as too many bags?  Never.

I love how the Mini Charms make it easy to put together a scrappy look. I’ve taken some of my favorite pouch options and combined them into a quilted zipper bag.
Gather up your materials.

1 Mini Charm Pack – Sunnyside by Kate Spain
1 Coordinating Fat Quarter
11″ Zipper
(2) 12 x 10 Pieces of Batting

1/2″ D-Ring for Pull Tab
Interfacing for lining fabric


Break open those Mini Charms.

Choose 36 charms for your quilted exterior, 2 for your zipper stops and 2 for your pull tab.

Lay out the exterior charms. Notice there are no charms on the bottom corners. 

 When piecing little charms for patchwork I like to chain sew. Use a 1/4″ seam for piecing.

Don’t iron quite yet – wait until you have strip sets (rows of charms) in place.

When have your strip sets sewn together, iron the seams with each row going opposite directions.

This makes it easy for lining up the rows. You won’t even need to pin!  The way you’ve ironed the seams helps lock them together for sewing.

If you feel more comfortable pinning, go for it.  I’m okay using this method for smaller projects that are easier to handle.

Now you should have 2 pieced panels similar to this.


Make the pull tab by taking 2 of the charms we put aside and sew them together, ironing the seam open.  

Iron lengthwise to mark the center and open it up.   Now fold and iron the edges to the center iron line.

Fold in half again and stitch down the edge of each side.

Optional D-Ring:  Fold your tab in half and stitch the ring in place.


Take 2 more of the charms we pulled aside. These will be used as fabric stops for the zipper.

Fold in half, iron and open.  Fold and iron a generous 1/4″.


Layer your batting under your fabric panel.

The quilting design is up to you!  I stitched straight, diagonal lines through the middle of each charm.

If you do a lot of straight line quilting, chalk markers will line right against your ruler. Makes it kind of nice.

Trim the batting, be careful not to cut any of the charms.

I don’t place fabric on the underside and I’ve never had a problem without it.  You can use muslin or scrap fabric if you want, but this will all be hidden.

Cut two 8.5″ x 10.5″ rectangles from your fat quarter. This will be your lining.

Optional Interfacing: Iron the interfacing to your fabric.  I like using interfacing because it provides extra stability.

Trim your lining and cut a 2″ square from the bottom corners so they resemble the shape of the quilted panels.


You should have something like this:

Take a fabric zipper stop and fold it over the edge of the zipper end.  Sew along the folded edge of the stop to attach.

Open the little tab and cut the zipper down to 1/4″ seam. This removes extra material so the corners aren’t so bulky.

Attach the other fabric zipper stop – leaving 8″ between the two stops.  Trim the extra zipper material from the inside of that stop as well.

Quilted exterior right side up
Zipper facing down
     (center the fabric stops so the same amount of fabric sticks out on the right and left)
Lining right side down

Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge of the exterior-zipper-lining sandwich.

Fold the sewn layers off to one side and layer:

Quilted exterior right side up
Zipper facing down
     (the first set of fabrics should be folded down with the other fabrics and out of the way)
Lining right side down

Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge.

Fold each side open. A lining and quilted panel should be wrong sides together on each side.

Top stitch along each side of the zipper and trim the extra fabric off the zipper stops.

Fold the two lining fabrics together – right sides facing.

Fold the two quilted panels together – right sides facing.

Place the pull tab on the inside where the zipper pull will be when the pouch is closed.  If the pull tab is too long for your liking, trim a 1/2″ off first.

Make sure your zipper is OPEN!

Line up the top stitching from the two quilted panels and pin in place on each side. This keep your sides lined up. 

Sew using a 1/2″ seam down the sides like the image below.  Don’t sew the corners. Remember to leave a turning hole!

Once the sides are sewn, separate a corner and fold the seams together.  Sew using 1/2″ seam.

Repeat for all corners and you should have something that resembles this.

See that little hole we left in the lining?  Stick your hand in there and start pulling the bag right side out.

This is why we left that zipper open!

Sew your lining hole closed. This is a good spot to sew in a label.

Stuff the lining down inside the pouch and poke out the corners of the bag and the zipper.

Don’t use anything sharp or you’ll stab right through your fabric creating an ugly little hole.  I may or may not have done this before. And I may or may not have done it more than once.


One Awesome Quilted Patchwork Pouch

Ta-da!  Your pouch is complete. 
If you make a patchwork pouch I’d love to see it!
Julie Hirt 

Sunnyside Diamond Zig-Zag Quilt

Hi, I’m Janice Ryan and I blog about quilting and sewing at Better Off Thread.  I am really excited to be sharing my very first Bake Shop Recipe with you today. 

My sister and I both learned the joy of creating handmade items from my mom.  Whether it was doll clothing, Halloween costumes, christmas cookies or homemade playdough, I have very fond memories of crafting with my family.   I am now the family quilter and my sister, Judy, is the knitter/crocheter.  She made my children their very first blankets, and those blankies have seen their share of snuggles and tears and games of tug ‘o’ war.  I wanted to make my sister a cozy quilt for snuggling under, with a good book, on all those rainy East Coast days (and there have been a LOT this summer.).  Since I live in California, I thought I would send her a little bit of sun and Sunnyside by Kate Spain was the perfect choice.  I love how the diamonds create a sunburst and make the colors dance around the quilt.  I hope my quilt adds a little sunshine to your day, too.

1 Jelly Roll- Sunnyside by Kate Spain
2 yards background fabric- Moda Bella in White
4 yards backing fabric

Please read all instructions prior to making this quilt! All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.
Step 1: Make Diamond Panels

Separate your jelly roll into 4 sets of 9 strips each.  You will want 5 different colors in each set:
– color 1 = 1 strip
– color 2 = 2 strips
– color 3 = 3 strips
– color 4 = 2 strips
– color 5 = 1 strip
My sets were made up of the colors listed below:

Take your first set of 9 strips and sew them together into 3 sets of 3 (arrange them in the same order as the diagram above.)  Each strip will be offset 2 1/4″ lower than the previous one. Press seams open.

Tip: lightly starch your strip sets to keep them from stretching once they are cut on the bias.

Cut your strip set every 2 1/2″ at a 45º angle. Cut 10 strips.

Tip: I use the angle lines my normal quilter’s ruler to cut the 45º angle, but there are various specialty angle rulers that can be purchased.

Repeat for your 2 other sets of strips.
Sew one strip from each set together, matching seams.
You will now have one diamond panel.  
Repeat to make 10 diamonds panels and then repeat Step 1 on your other 3 sets of 9 strips.  You will have 40 diamonds when completed.
Tip: You can find a photo tutorial for making these diamond panels on my blog.

Step 2: Cutting Background

From your background fabric cut 10 strips 6 1/2″ x WOF (about 44″).
Starting at the bottom left corner of your strip, cut a 45º angle.  Make a 45º cut every 9″.  Each strip will yield 4 diamonds (background diamonds will be the same exact size as a finished diamond panel from step one.).
Tip: if you are feeling adventurous, you can layer 3-4 strips and cut them all at the same time.

Cut all strips until you have 40 diamonds.
Cut 10 diamonds in half, as pictured in the diagram above.

Step 3: Piecing the Quilt Top

Piece diamonds vertically into 10 rows, then sew rows together.

Your top is now done! Baste, quilt and bind as desired. I used my leftover strips and a few scraps to make my binding.

One 58″ x 65″ quilt…

perfect for snuggling under on a rainy day.

If you use this pattern, be sure to send me a photo!

Janice Ryan