Goodie Pouch

The perfect addition to any bag, this little pouch is lined with Rip Stop Nylon so toys or snacks won’t get lint on them {or get your fabric wet or greasy!}, and the handle has a swivel clip so it can be fastened to a stroller, purse strap, or somewhere else convenient!  Made with a few leftover Jelly Roll strips, it’s a quick project that will be great for kids.

  • 4 Jelly Roll Strips cut to 13″ outside
  • 2 – 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ rectangles for zipper tabs
  • 1 Jelly Roll Strip cut to 11″ for handle
  • 8 1/2″ x 13″ Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex woven interfacing
  • 2 – 8 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles Rip Stop Nylon Fabric {similar to what a kite or windbreaker would be made from,it has little grid squares on it that you cannot see in the photographs}
  • 9″ Long Pull Zipper {my favorite type of zipper!}
  • 1 1/2″ Swivel Clip

Start by piecing four jelly roll strips together lengthwise with a 1/4″ seam allowance, then fuse the interfacing to the wrong side.  Quilt as desired {I quilted 1/8″ from each seam}:

Cut in half to make 2 – 8 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles, set aside.  Fold the handle piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, press. 

Then open and fold the raw edges toward the center, wrong sides together, press.  Open handle and fold 1/4″ of one short edge down.  Refold the handle piece along pressed lines.  Stitch along the open edge.  Feed the short folded edge through the swivel clip, stitch in place.

Stitch the handle 1/2″ from one top edge of one of the outside pieces.

Fold the two 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ rectangles in half {1 1/4″ x 1 1/2″}, then turn 1/4″ toward center on each side, press.  Trim zipper to length of bag and sew the rectangles onto the zipper.

Place the zipper face down on the pouch piece, the closed zipper pull should be on the same side as the handle.  Then place the nylon lining piece on top of the zipper, use a zipper foot and stitch in place.  Fold the pieces wrong side together.  Then place the zipper face down on the other outer piece {the two outer pieces will be right sides together}, and then put the remaining lining piece on top, stitch along zipper.

Fold the pieces so that the right sides of the pouch are together and the lining is together {as shown above} and stitch 3/8″ around the bag, leaving a 3″ opening along the bottom of the lining {note: make sure the zipper is partially unzipped}.  Turn the bag right sides out.  Stitch the opening closed on the outside of the lining.  Then, stuff the lining inside the bag and it is finished!

One cute little pouch that won’t sink to the bottom of your bag, perfect for any outing!

 If you make one of these, I’d love for you to share it in the Moda Bake Shop Flickr Group and the Clover & Violet Flickr Group!

{Clover & Violet}

Squaredy Cat Quilt

Hi this is Wendy from Sewing in the Wendy City.  I’m thrilled to bring you my second Moda Bake Shop recipe! This time I got to work with Momo’s Just Wing It! collection, which is fabulously beautiful. 
I call this quilt my “Squaredy Cat” quilt because it uses giant squares to make a large quilt and goes together very easily and quickly.  If’ you’ve always been a “Scaredy Cat” about a bed-sized quilt, then “Squaredy Cat” is a good pattern for you!

1 layer cake in Just Wing It by MoMo
2 Jelly Rolls in Just Wing It by MoMo
1 yard of a coordinating print for binding
5 1/2 yards of a coordinating print for backing

From the layer cake, pull out the following:
18 squares that will be the centers of our blocks
4 squares that will be the corner posts on the piano key border (trim to 8″ square)
9 squares that will be subcut into 2.5″ x 10″ strips (yielding 36 10″ strips)
3 squares that will be subcut into 2.5″ x 8″ strips (yielding 12 8″ strips)
The rest of the layer cake can be pieced into the backing

From the 2 jelly rolls, you will need the following:
8 solidish strips to be the inner border.  I used the blue toned ones.
36 strips, each cut into:  one 18-inch strip, a 14-inch strip, and an 8-inch strip
Another 36 strips, each cut into:  one 14-inch strip, and three 8-inch strips

When you finish cutting you will have:
36  10-inch strips
72  14-inch strips
36 18-inch strips
156 8-inch strips

It may be helpful to find a ziploc or a basket for each size of strips.  

Now, time to sew!  It is very, very helpful to chain piece these.  If you do this, it will go pretty quickly.

To each of your 18 center squares, add the following:

10-inch strips to each side,

14-inch strips to the top and bottom, 

another set of 14-inch strips to the left and right

And finally, 18-inch strips to the top and bottom.

At this point, your blocks will be approximately 18 inches square.  Press them well, and take them to your cutting mat.

Cut vertically and horizontally to make four 9-inch blocks.

You will have 72 of these 9-inch blocks.

Layout the blocks in pairs like so… and pin them.  Make sure you have the squares lined up… in the top right on the left and the bottom right corner on the right.  I suggest pinning them all and then chain piecing all 36 pairs.

Aren’t they pretty all lined up like that?

Next, sew the pairs of blocks into rows of 4 blocks, alternating the square placement each time.

Then put 2 groups of 4 together so that you have 8 blocks. You will have 9 identical rows of 8 blocks each.

Find the 8 jelly roll strips you reserved for the inner border and sew them together end-to-end.

Add the inner border onto your quilt center.

Find the giant pile of 8-inch strips you cut earlier, and sew them together to make a piano key border.

So that I didn’t have to deal with a very long border at one time, I split my strips into approximately 4 strips and pieced them together as I needed to to add to the quilt.

I used corner posts on mine.
First, add the piano key border to the short sides of your top.  Then we do some careful measuring. Put an 8-inch square onto one end of a piano key strip.  Then carefully lay it out, marking where you get to the other end where the other corner post will be.  

Trim the piano key border 1/4″ past the inner border, then sew on the other corner post.  Pin carefully so that your points line up.

I love a pieced quilt back!

Here’s the backing fabric.  Isn’t it beautiful!  I used 5 yards of the backing fabric, but it was close!  So I’m suggesting 5 1/2 in the pattern. 

I had several leftover layer cake squares and I pieced them into the back with my leftover jelly roll pieces.

I took my leftovers and arranged them to be as large as the quilt top.  There are many ways to do this, but here’s mine:

I used the dark blue as my binding fabric, and it worked well. I think one of the solids would also be lovely.

To make your binding, cut 9 strips that are 2.5″ by the width of the fabric.

Quilt and bind as desired.  

A beautiful oversized-full sized quilt, measuring approximately 87″ x 96″.

I’m so pleased with the way it turned out. 

And pieced backs are so much fun!

Here’s a full shot….

And I made this cute butterfly pillow with my leftover scraps. 
For the pattern and more information on making the pillow, please visit my blog, Sewing in the Wendy City, for the full tutorial.

Thanks so much for reading.
Blessings to you–

Wendy Poling

Windy Days Quilt

Hi! I’m Sarah of SarahB Designs and I’m so happy to bring you another fun Moda precut recipe! The classic pinwheel pattern is one of my favorites and my Windy Days Quilt is a fun twist on the classic! Small and large pinwheels spin around the entire quilt top in a tilted but symmetrical design!

Precut Fabric
1 charm pack of the fabric line of your choice, I’m using Just Wing It! by MoMo
2 Bella Solids charm packs in a coordinating color, I’m using White
Additional Fabric and Supplies
1¼ yards coordinating print for backing (or 1½ yards if adding border)
½ yard for coordinating print for binding
Rotary cutter, ruler and cutting mat
Fabric pencil or similar temporary fabric marker

I didn’t add a border, but if you would like to add a border to the quilt, you’ll need an extra 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric.

If you have a design wall, you’ll get to put it to use in this step! Before sewing, you need to choose if you want a scrappy look for the larger pinwheels or if you prefer each of the 4 triangles to be made of the same fabric. Not all fabric line charm packs will contain duplicate squares, but Just Wing It! has several, so that’s another design option you can consider. I prefer a scrappier look, so I chose a different charm square for each triangle of the large pinwheel.

Choosing fabric placement

The Just Wing It! charm pack includes duplicates of several of the narrow stripe prints, so you can choose do the large pinwheels all in the same print, or you can mix the narrow stripes in and make the pinwheels scrappy. Play with the design and see which look you prefer. I was placing all my pieces on the floor and you can see I stacked a white charm square under each print so I would have it handy when I picked everything up to sew. If you are using a design wall, you can simply pick up the background squares in the next step. (I had 6 printed charm squares and 3 solid charm squares left over.)

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement and have snapped a photo of it (to remember where the fabrics are placed), make and label the following 3 stacks:

• large pinwheels – 1/2 square triangles (there are 16 solid-print pairs for the scrappy look I show)
• small pinwheels – 1/4 square triangles (there are 20 solid-print pairs)
• background squares (there are 45)

Large Pinwheels

You will either have 8 (single-print pinwheel) or 16 (scrappy look) ½ square triangle units.

If your cutting mat has a diagonal line in addition to the grid, place 1 unit with the diagonal line running from one corner to the opposite corner. Place your ruler approximately 1/16” from the diagonal line (or where the diagonal line would be if one isn’t printed). This will allow room for your pencil or marker and allow you to mark an accurate line. I found it easier to mark from the center to the corner, then again from the center to the opposite corner to avoid stretching the fabric on the bias.

Repeat this marking process on 1 layer of all your ½ square triangle sets.

Your solid charm squares don’t have a right or wrong side, so with the right side of your printed charm square facing a solid, sew 1/4” on one side of your marked line, chain piecing as shown below.

Leaving your pieces attached, sew 1/4″ on the opposite side of your marked line of all the 1/2 square triangle sets. Take care not to stretch the fabric, as you are sewing on the bias.

Clip the threads between all the sets, then set the seams by pressing flat. With your ruler, rotary cut on your marked line. Press each triangle set open. Repeat.

Square up the 1/2 square triangle units to 4 ½”, taking care to keep the diagonal seam running corner to corner. To “square up” a block, trim just enough from two adjacent sides to make a perfect right angle, then turn the block to the opposite two adjacent sides where you will make sure the block measures 4 ½” and all corners are right angles.

Don’t create the large pinwheels yet! The quilt top construction will be a lot easier if these triangle blocks are left separate.

Small Pinwheels

This is a quick and easy trick! It might not follow the “old school” quilt rules, but it works, and it’s a handy way to make the most of your charm squares!

With the right side of your printed charm square to the inside, facing a solid, sew along all 4 sides of the square with a ¼” seam as shown below.

If you prefer to chain piece, as I do, use this method instead. With the right side of your printed charm square facing a solid, sew along one side of the square with a ¼” seam. Continue to sew one side of all the ¼ square triangle units, chain piecing. Without clipping threads between the pieces, sew along the opposite side of all the pieces, again chain piecing with a ¼” seam.

Now clip the threads between the squares and sew along another side of each, chain piecing. When you are done, sew along the other sides, again chain piecing.

Now it’s time to cut! Align your ¼ square unit on your cutting mat just as you did with the ½ square unit. I don’t mark my lines here, but if you are more comfortable cutting on a marked line, go ahead and draw it before cutting. 🙂 You will make two diagonal cuts to create 4 triangle units, as shown below.

Set your seam by pressing the triangle units before opening, then open and press flat. Square up each unit to 2 ½”, taking care to keep the diagonal seam running corner to corner.

Create the pinwheels by placing the small triangle units all in the same manner. Each pinwheel should have the same background/print arrangement. Chain piece unit pairs, clip each pinwheel set and press toward the print.

Next, sew the matching pairs together to complete the small pinwheel block.

Press the small pinwheel units open. If you unsew 1 or 2 stitches on the back of the block you will be able to press the block nice and flat, getting a mini-pinwheel in the back.

Trimming Background Blocks

Trim the solid charm blocks you’ve set aside to 4 ½” square. You can trim ½” from 2 adjacent sides or remove all the pinked edges, whichever you prefer.

Arranging the Blocks

Using the photo you took before you started sewing as a placement guide, arrange your small pinwheel blocks, the large pinwheel triangle units and the trimmed background blocks on your design wall or and large flat surface.

Chain piece each vertical column set and don’t clip the threads between blocks as shown below. The threads will act help keep all the blocks in the order you’ve placed them in as the top is pieced together.  

For the 1st column of blocks, press seams down. For the 2nd, press seams upward. Continue sewing pairs of block columns together and alternating the you direction you press so seams will lock together nicely in the next steps.

Once the 4 column pairs sets are stitched, sew the edge column (set 5 in the photo) to the adjacent set and stitch all the sets together in the same manner. Pin adjacent columns together to ensure seams match up. The bias edges on the small pinwheels will stretch a bit, so that can help you match the corners.

The final step to finish the quilt top is sewing all the horizontal seams. All the blocks are already attached, so just use pins where necessary to ensure nicely matched seams. Sew the rows together and your quilt top is done!

If you want to add a border, cut the coordinating fabric you’ve chosen into four 3½” strips, removing the selvages. Add to your quilt top.

Quilt Back

This quilt top is small enough that you can certainly use a single length of fabric as the backing (if you aren’t using a longarm machine to quilt it). However, I love the look of a pieced back, and we have a nice stack of leftover ½ square triangle units just begging to be used!

To ensure your backing is large enough for longarm quilting or to accommodate the optional border, use the remaining solid charm squares and your choice of leftover printed charms. Sew a few additional ½ square triangles, and trim those down to 4½”. (I used a few of the printed charms that were almost white as solids, and placed them at either end since I wanted to make sure my back was large enough for the longarm quilter to work with. I was able to trim those scrap/filler pieces off after quilting.)

For my back, I chose to split the backing fabric vertically down the center and use the large ½ square triangle units to form a zigzag pattern. If you didn’t trim all the leftover ½ square triangles to 4½” earlier, do so now, just as in the quilt top step.

Arrange the ½ square triangle units in a pleasing pattern and chain piece by sewing down the vertical line. Press the center seam alternately to the left and right. Then sew each pair set together, taking care to match the seams. (The pressed seams will help lock the points in place.)

Center one piece of the backing fabric on the pieced zigzag strip and sew it on with a ¼” seam. Attach the other piece of the backing fabric on the pieced strip, taking care to align it with the first. (It’s fine if the pieced inset isn’t the same length; after quilting it will be trimmed down.)

I centered my zigzag pieced strip, but an off-center pieced strip would make for a really interesting quilt backing too!

Finishing the quilt

Layer your quilt top, batting and quilt back. Quilt as desired. I chose to send mine to be professional longarm quilter, Paula Stout of Porch Quilts. She quilted it with “angel wings” that matched the butterflies you can see in the Just Wing It! print I chose for the backing. I am so pleased with the result!

You can use straight-of-grain binding to finish the quilt, but since I chose a stripe I decided to make the most of it and cut it on the bias.

I truly love the back of this quilt as much as the front!

One 36-1/2″ square quilt, perfect for a baby quilt or child’s lap quilt. (If border is added, quilt will be larger.)

Sarah Meyer
{SarahB Designs}

Big Sis, Little Sis Owl Messenger Bags


I’m Jo from Jo’s Country Junction. I am so excited to bring to you my latest Moda Bake Shop project, “Big Sis, Little Sis Owl Bags.” You can make one bag or both bags. If you read on, you will even find out how to get instructions for a matching tiny baby owl bag that can be used as a coin purse. Grab some “Just Wing It” fat quarters and a little bit of yardage and let’s start sewing.

Large Bag (10″ x 11″)
1 fat quarter for outsie
1 fat quarter for inside
1/4 yard for binding
1/3 yard strap and inner pocket
2-1/8 yard cuts for eyes and beak

Small Bag (6″ x 7″)
1 fat quarter for outsie
1 fat quarter for inside
1/4 yard for binding
1/8 yard strap and inner pocket
2-1/8 yard cuts for eyes and beak

Buttons for eyes
Scrap of DecoBond
Scrap of Heat and Bond
2 Scraps of leftover quilt batting the size of your fat quarter


Draw out a pattern using the following measurements. This will be the front and back of the bag.

Base 7″ (12″)
Height 6″ (9″)
Top 4.25″ (9″)

Cut a 12″ x 20″ (18″ x 21″) piece of fabric from your fabric that will be the outside. Cut a piece of batting that is slightly bigger. Machine quilt the to pieces together using a scalloped type quilting pattern.

From the quilted piece cut::
2 of the drawn pattern
2-2.5″ x 6″ pieces (2-3″ x 9″)
1-2.5″ x 7″ piece (1-3″ x 12″)

Pin the 6″ pieces to the 7″ piece as shown. Sew between the pins leaving a 1/4″ not sewn at each edge. Do this for each end.

Pin the front piece to the side pieces as shown. Again, sew between the pins leaving a 1/4″ not sewn at each edge.

Pin the side pieces to the front as shown. This time leave a 1/4″ not sewn only at the base of the purse only. Sew to the edge of the top. Sew both sides the same way.

Sew the back piece in place by repeating the last two steps.

Turn right side out.

From the lining fabric cut::
2 of the drawn pattern
2-2.5″ x 6″ pieces
1-2.5″ x 7″ piece

From a contrast fabric cut 2-4.5″ x 5″ (6.5″ x 6′) pieces for an inside pocket. Put the pieces right sides together. Sew around the edge as shown leaving an opening. Clip the corners. Turn right side out. Hand stitch the opening shut.

Stitch to the back piece as shown.

Now assemble you lining using the same steps that you used to sew the outside of the bag together. Clip the corner seams.

Now tuck the lining into the bag putting the WRONG sides together. Pin the seams together as shown.

Cut 2-2.5″ strip of fabric for the binding. Using one strip, bind the top edge of the bag just as you would bind a quilt. I sewed the binding to the outside and flipped it over to the inside, hand sewing the binding in place.

To make the flap, cut a 5.5″ x 5.5″ (11″ x 5.75″) piece of lining fabric and one the same size of the machine quilted pieces. Layer them wrong sides together. Bind three of the sides with the other 2.5″ binding strip.

Find the center of the back side of the bag. Find the center of the flap. Match them up as shown. Pin the flap in place about 1/4″ below the binding strip. Sew into place.

Trim the seam to only 1/8″. Turn the flap into position. Pin in place. Stitch 1/2″ from the fold covering the raw edge.

Using the beak pattern provided in the printable version, cut two beaks from fabric and one from decobond. Put the fabric pieces right sides together. Layer that on top of the decobond piece. Sew along the two curved sides using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Trim. Turn right sides out. Iron. Turn the straight open edge in, iron.

Sew the beak in place on the center of the flap as shown.

To make the eyes cut a 5″ x 2.5″ (7″ x 3.5″) piece of the outside bag fabric and one of a contrasting fabric. Cut a piece of heat and bond that is that size as well. Adhere the heat and bond to the back of one of the pieces of fabric. Then adhere the other piece of fabric to the heat and bond making a fabric and heat and bond sandwich. Using the fabric, cut two 2′ (3″) circles.

Cut a piece of contrasting fabric that is 1.5″ by 3.5″ (2.5″ x 5″). Cut a piece of heat and bond the same size. Adhere to fabric. Cut two 1″ circles. Adhere to the middle of the 2″ circles. Using a scissor, fringe the outside edge of the 2″ circle.

Now all that is left is the strap. To make them cut two 2″ x 28″ (2.5″ x 42) pieces of fabric and one of batting. Layer the batting between the fabric and machine quilt. Pin the strap to the purse testing the length. If you want it shorter, now is the time to trim it. Cut 2 (3) binding strips. Bind the strap as you would bind a quilt.

Position the strap as shown and stitch in place.

Your bag is finished…unless, of course, you are making one of each size….Remember the directions for the large bag are in parentheses.

If you look at the photo of the finished bags you will see a picture of a tiny matching purse. If you want to learn how to make that, head on over my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, and you’ll see a little tutorial on how to make it. If you make it without the handle, it’s a darling little coin purse. I am giving away my extra scraps so you might want to check that out too.

Large Bag (10″ x 11″)Small Bag (6″ x 7″)

Crossroads Quilt

Hi, Tacha here! I’m part of the Fat Quarterly Team and am Hanies on Flickr. But more important than that, I am the Mum of two little girls and now that Spring has sprung we are out and about a lot more. I decided that I needed a new quilt to throw on the floor wherever we are so we can have impromptu picnics or snuggle up if the sun goes behind the clouds! We live in Germany so it isn’t that warm yet!

I fell in love with the Just Wing It line and its great colours. I wanted a design that would show off all the prints and make good use of every tiny piece of a layer cake. I hope you like what I came up with.

1 layer cake of Just Wing It by MoMo
2 1/2 yards of white solid
10” square of dark grey solid
8 strips 2 1/2″ x width of fabric for binding
4 yards of backing fabric
64” x 78” of batting

59″ x 74″

Step 1 – Cut and Organise your fabric

The quilt is made up of 20 blocks.

Divide your layer cake into 2 groups of 20 squares 10”.

One group (A) will be the corners of the blocks and the other group (B) will be the centre bars and small squares of the blocks.

From EACH of the squares to be used for the corners, group A, cut:
4 strips 2 1/2” x 5 1/2”
4 strips 2 1/2” x 3 1/2”

From EACH of the squares to be used for the centre bars and small squares, group B, cut:
2 strips 2 1/2“ x 8 1/2“
7 squares 2 1/2”

From the white solid, cut:
240 strips 1 1/2” x 2 1/2”
40 strips 1 1/2” x 10 1/2”
71 strips 1 1/2” x 14 1/2”

From the dark grey solid, cut:
12 squares 1 1/2″

For each block you will need:

4 strips 2 1/2” x 5 1/2” and 4 strips 2 1/2” x 3 1/2” from 1 of the group A prints
2 strips 2 1/2” x 8 1/2” from 1 of the group B prints
3 squares 2 1/2” from a different group B print
2 squares 2 1/2” from a different group B print
2 squares 2 1/2” from a different group B print
12 strips 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” of white solid
2 strips 1 1/2” x 8 1/2” of white solid
2 strips 1 1/2” x 14 1/2” of white solid

Play around with the groupings of group A and group B fabrics until you are happy.

Step 2 – Make the Blocks

Now you are ready to make the blocks!

Sew the block together in rows.

Start with the centre row. Take 4 white strips 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″, 3 squares 2 1/2″ of a group B print, and 2 squares 2 1/2″ of a different group B print. Sew together as shown.

Sew a white 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strip to the top and the bottom of this row.

Sew a white 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ strip to both ends of the 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips to the top.

Sew the 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ strips to the side of these strips. Make 2 of these rows.

Sew a white 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ strip to either side of each of the remaining 2 1/2″ group B squares.

Sew the 2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ strips to either side. Make 2 rows like this.

Sew the rows together as shown.

Step 3 – Sash the Blocks

Arrange the 20 blocks in a 4 x 5 layout. Rotate alternate blocks by 90°.

Sew the white 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips between each block in each row.

Sew the remaining white 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips and dark grey 1 1/2″ squares into 4 strips of 4 white 1 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips and 3 squares 1 1/2″.

Sew the rows of blocks together and sashing strips together as shown.

Step 4 – Finish the Quilt

Layer the backing, batting and quilt top. Baste.

Quilt as desired. I quilted a simple all-over meandering stitch but I think this would look fabulous with straight lines to complement the squares and rectangles of the design.

Sew the binding strips together and bind your quilt.

There are some great tutorials if you need help with basting, quilting or binding your quilt. We have compiled a list on our tutorial page on Fat Quarterly.

Head over to Fat Quarterly if you would like to download this quilt pattern as a pdf file. You may also download the Printer Friendly version included at the end of this post.

Issue 5 of Fat Quarterly is all about precuts and is packed with fabulous patterns to make the most of your charm packs, layer cakes and fat quarter bundles.

Tacha Bruecher
{Fat Quarterly}

Ruffle Banner and Pillow

Hello!  We’ve got an exciting and quick project to share with you today.  We are very happy to be posting our first tutorial here on Moda Bake Shop!!  Heather and I (Megan) are sisters and we love all things crafty.  We work together on our blogs Fresh Poppy Design and QuiltStory.  We would love for you to stop by! We have linky parties, ideas, tutorials and quilt patterns.  Hope you have fun with this cute banner and pillow 🙂

1 charm pack- Just Wing It! by MoMo
1/4 yard- It’s A Hoot by MoMo 32375 24
1/2 yard- Bella Solids Bleached White 9900 97
18″ pillow form
pinking sheers

Part 1: Creating the Ruffle Banner

Using pinking sheers and taking one charm square, find the center and cut from center to the opposite corner.  Do the same on the other side to create your pennant or triangle.  Repeat until you have 10.
Cut the 1/4 yard fabric in strips, two strips 2″ x WOF (width of fabric). This will be the band the pennants hang from.  Cut two pieces 1.5″ x WOF this will be the ruffle.
Sew the 2″ x WOF strips end to end, roughly 2″ x 86″.  Fold the piece in half, right sides together, sew, turn right side out and press.  Set aside for now.
Next sew the 1.5″ x WOF strips end to end, roughly 1.5″ x 86″.  Now sew the length of one side, very loosely in the widest stitch you can.  Pull the thread to create a ruffle.  Work the ruffle end to end to make it even and the right length to accommodate the pennants (roughly 45″).  (The edge of the ruffle is an unfinished edge).
Pinning along the back, sew the pennants to the ruffle.  The right side of the pennants to the wrong side of ruffle.
Again pinning carefully, sew a topstitch from end to end on the band, including attaching the ruffle and pennants.  Stand back and admire 🙂
Back to work.
Part 2: Creating the Brick Pillow
Choose 18 squares from the remaining charm pack.  Cut in half, 2.5″ to create the bricks.
Sewing end to end, create four rows with 4 bricks in them and four rows with 5 bricks in them.
Lay the rows out in the design you wish.  Sew each row together, keeping in mind to sew them in brick style as in photo above.
Trim off excess fabrics and square the piece to 17″.
Using the 1/2 yard of Bella White fabric, cut two pieces to 17″ x 13″.  Using the photo above as a guide, finish one end on each piece.  Line it up with the right side of fabric of the brick piece, the white fabric will overlap.  This is to create an envelope pillow, where you can insert the pillow and remove anytime for cleaning.  Sew around the outside of the square.
Insert your pillow!

A gorgeous and fast little duo that would make a great seasonal gift, or a fun new way to spruce up your own living spaces!
Thanks so much, hope you love the tutorial.  Please make sure to stop by and see us at QuiltStory!
Megan and Heather

Nature’s Gems Quilt

Are you excited??  I know I am!!  Melissa Corry here, and I am thrilled to bring you this tutorial.  I just  love everything MoMo designs and Just Wing It is no exception!!  I really wanted to highlight these wonderful prints on a large scale and creating these “gem” blocks was so much fun!  So here it is 🙂

And you know there is an adorable quilt kit just waiting for you 🙂 Click on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has created an exclusive Nature’s Gems Quilt Kit  with several backing options all at a discounted price!  Hurry, supplies are limited.

And of course, if you have any questions you can reach me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  And feel free to stop by my stomping grounds to see what I am up to. I love visitors. Happy Quilting to you all!

1 Just Wing It by MoMo Layer Cake
1 Just Wing It by MoMo Jelly Roll
2 Yards Bella Solids – Any Grey Tone
2 3/4 Yard of your choice for Backing


Start by opening your Just Wing It layer cake.  You will be making 36 “Gem” blocks so you will have 6 extra “slices” of cake.  Go ahead and pull those out now.  I pulled out the solid repeats 🙂  Now the cutting in this tutorial is a little more involved than your basic squares but don’t let it scare you off.  It is a lot easier to do than to describe how to do 🙂

To cut, you will be using the center square in your mat (the one with the angle lines that go through it),  Line the top of your layer cake square along the 5″ line of that center square.  The center of the square will be along the 0 line of the center square.  The bottom of your square of fabric should be along the bottom of the mat (if it is the same as my mat).  The sides of your square will be lined up with the sides of the center square on the mat.  Now that you are all lined up, you are ready to cut.  You will be lining your ruler up along the 60 degree line (the dashed line the arrows are pointing to) making sure you intersect the 0 line at the side of the center of your block.

Just like this.  Once you have your ruler lined up go ahead and cut.

Now spin your ruler and line up along the 60 degree line on the other side of your center square.  Once you’re lined up perfect, cut along the edge of your ruler.

Now spin your square of fabric and line up the other end and cut the two corners just as described above.  Repeat the entire process with all 36 of your layer cake “slices”.  You will have some fun triangle scraps when you are done.  Note – Take care to watch for directional prints.  You want to make sure they are right side up and not sideward (I learned that the hard-way.  You will notice a few of my prints on the back are a little skewed 🙂

If you do not have a center square on your mat you can use the 60 degree line on your ruler to get the same effect.  See the directions for cutting the grey triangles for how to do this.  You will have to mark the back of your squares through the center to know where to line the edge up 😉

Now that your “Gem” Blocks are cut, you are ready to cut your grey yardage.  Start by laying out your grey yardage lining up the fold line along the 0″ horizontal line on your mat.  Trim a nice straight edge to start with.  Then measure over 5 1/2″.  Alight your ruler along the marks on the top and bottom of your mat and slice.  Continue this process until you have eight 5 1/2″ x WOF strips.  (I do 4 at a time).

Trim your selvage edge off the top of your strips.

Now you are ready to start cutting your triangles.  You will be using the 60 degree line on your ruler.  Keep your strip folded.  You will be cutting 2 layers at a time.  Lay your first strip down so the bottom is aligned along any horizontal line of your mat. Align the 60 degree line up along the bottom of your strip.  Line the edge of your ruler with the corner of your strip. Cut along the edge of the ruler.  That first little half triangle is scrap.

Swivel your ruler and now you will look at the other 60 degree line on your ruler.  Align it along the bottom of your block again.  Align the edge of your ruler with the top corner of your strip.  Cut.   (Sorry, this picture is a little crooked.)

Continue this process until you have made 5 sets of triangles. You won’t have enough room to cut another triangle.   You need 84 triangles for this project and you have 8 strips with 10 of each.  So on 4 strips you will need to open the strip, finger press your seam (I spray with a bit of water to help) , and cut one more triangle.  Continue this process with all 8 of your strips so that you have 84 triangles total!

And now for some final easy cutting.  Lay your remaining grey yardage out on your mat with the fold line along the 0 horizontal line of your mat.  Cut 26 1″ wide x WOF strips.  Set 18 aside, they don’t need any more cutting.  7 of them you will need to just trim off the fold line cutting them in half.  (I know there are only 6 in the picture, I miscounted when I took it, sorry)  And of your last strip, cut 2 pieces that are 12″ long each.  The remaining piece will be scrap and the two 12″ pieces can be set aside for a bit.  They will be used for the backing.  And that is it for cutting 🙂


Onto some sewing 🙂  We’ll start by building the “Gem” blocks.  We will be adding a grey triangle to the top left of each “gem” and to the bottom right of each “gem”.  And these are equilateral triangles so don’t worry about which side to line up, they are all the same.

Lay your triangles onto your “gem” piece with right sides together.  Align your triangle along the edge and center it so that you have the same amount of hang over on each side.  It should be about 1/4″ overhang.  Pin.  Repeat the process for the other triangle.  Now repeat both sides on all 36 of your “gem” blocks.  You will have some left over grey triangles.

Now to the sewing.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of the upper left hand side of each block.  When you start sewing, your needle should fit right in the groove of your criss cross pieces of fabric.  Remember to remove pins as you go.  Once you are finished with one block, don’t clip your threads.  Just feed the next block through. This is called Chain Stitching and it saves a lot of time.  Continue chain stitching all your blocks.

Now go ahead and clip the threads between your blocks.  Spin your blocks and sew your 1/4″ seam along the bottom right pinned seam of each block.  Continue chain stitching all 36 sets.

Once again, clip your threads between your sewn pieces.  Press your seams out on both sides of all 36 blocks.  You will have some dog ears to clip once you have pressed 🙂


Now the fun part: the layout!!  Spend a little time and play with your blocks until you have a layout you like.  The colors are super fun to play with.  You want to make sure you have 6 rows of 6.  The last row will be used for the back.  (So if you made a slip with cutting something sidewards that might be the row where you want that block.)

Once you have a layout you like, you are ready to start sewing the rows together.  Once again, this is going to sound a lot harder than it is.  It is just hard to describe.  Take the first block in your row and lay  it over onto the second block of the row with right sides together.  The two blocks will make an sort of L shape.  The important part here is to make sure we get those triangle points nice and perfect.  The way to do this is to make sure your seams overlap.  You are going to want to nest your seams but that is wrong.  Keep sliding them together until you have a little “seam sandwich”.

Go ahead and pin your center seam (your seam sandwich) and then pin the two edges of your block.  The edges should line up perfectly with the edges of the block below.  But if they don’t, that’s fine. It is more important to do the center right, as you will be trimming the edges anyways 🙂

Pin all of your rows and blocks.  In each row you will pin Block 1 and 2 together.  Block 3 and 4 together.  And Block 5 and 6 together.  Now back to the sewing machine.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of each set.  Once again, chain stitch all of your sets.  When done, clip the threads between the blocks and press.  You will start to notice that your tops will not be lined up.  Like I said, no worries, we will be trimming them.  We just want to make sure the centers come out nice and crisp.

Lay your sets of 2 back out again.  It should look like this.  See how pinning those seam sandwiches gives you nice crisp points between the center of your grey triangles.

Now you are going to repeat the process just with sets of 2 instead of 1.  Lay your now sewn together blocks 5 and 6, onto your now sewn together blocks 3 and 4.  Align your edges making your seam sandwich, pin along the center and edges, sew your 1/4″ seam along all 6 sets, clip your threads and press.

Now repeat once again, adding the final blocks 1 and 2 to the remainder of your row.  Use the same steps as above.

Now you have 6 rows that look like this.  Aren’t they just fun!!!  Now you need to grab those leftover grey triangles.  You’ll add one to the beginning and end of each row to fill in the “holes”.

This time you will pin the ends a little different.  Align the edge of the triangle along the edge of the block.  This will make the other end overlap the already sewn on grey triangle.  Pin along the edge.  Repeat this process for all 12 of your remaining triangles.

Now to sewing.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of your block.  You will start sewing only on one piece of fabric and sew onto your grey triangle.  Continue to the edge of the grey triangle.  When you reach the edge, you won’t be at the end of the block.  Just stop there.  You can backstitch a stitch if you choose to lock it in place.  Clip your threads.   Repeat with all 12 pinned pieces.  Press your pieces.

Now your sides look like this and you are ready to trim them square.  You need to measure over a 1/4″ from the point of your MoMo print.  Align the top and bottom along the lines of your ruler to make sure you are lined up straight.  (I found the Gem blocks to be a straighter measurement than the grey triangles.)  Once you are lined up, cut along the side of your ruler edge.  Repeat on both sides of all 6 rows.

Last, we are going to even up the tops and bottoms.  When your row is finished, it should measure 9 1/2″ wide.  Now I wish I had a 9 1/2″ wide ruler and this would be easier, but alas, I don’t 🙂  So here’s what you do.  Fold your row in half making sure to alight your corners.  Align your edges up along the vertical striaght lines on your mat and try to put your tops about a 1/4″ over a horizontal line.  (The grey tops will be right about on that horizontal line.)  Now go ahead and align your ruler along the horizontal line your choose and trim your top nice and neat.  Measure down 9 1/2″ inches on your mat and align your ruler along that mark on your mat and trim.

You should now have 6 rows with beautiful straightness and wonderfully crisp centers 🙂


On to the sashings.  We’ll start with the grey sashing.  Grab your 14 half strips (the ones that measure about 22″ x 1:) and 14 of your 1″ X WOF strips.  You are going to sew a half strip to a full strip to make them a nice long strip.  Put a set right sides together (doesn’t really matter in this case) and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge making a 66″ long strip.  Continue chain stitching all 14 sets.  Now grab 4 of the full WOF strips.  You will be sewing these in the same fashion making 2 strips that are 88″ long.  Clip your threads and press.  Set your two 88″ long sashings and 2 of the 64″ long sashings aside for borders to be added on at the end.

Now we will add these sashing we just made onto the tops and bottoms of each row.  Easy enough!!  Just lay your sashing along the top of the row with right sides together (make sure your sashing is right sides together, in other words you should be able to see the raw seam on top).

You won’t need to pin as there are no points to match.  Just sew a 1/4″ seam along the entire edge aligning as you go.  Trim the excess at the end.  Repeat for the top and the bottom of each row.  Press your seams.

Your rows should now look like this.  Those little seams don’t like to lay flat but don’t worry too much about it, they will when you sew your rows together 🙂  You can go ahead and set that bottom row that will be used for the back aside now, we won’t use it for a while 🙂

Now you are ready to move onto your next set of sashing.  It is time to open up that jelly roll!!!  Grab 2 prints from your jelly roll, don’t worry too much about it, just mix it up.  Align the two blocks along the horizontal lines of your mat hanging the selvage edge over the 0 vertical line.  Trim the selvage edge along the 0 vertical line.  Now you are going to cut the strips so that when you add the 2 measurements together you get 60 (don’t worry about seam allowance).  So I cut mine choosing from the following measurements.  (30 & 30) (31 & 29) (32 & 28) (33 & 27) (34 & 26) (35 & 25) and (36 & 24).  My mat doesn’t go any farther than that so I called it good there 🙂  Repeat this process until you have a total of 12 sets that add up to 60.  (You will be using 24 jelly roll strips.) Go ahead and set the remaining pieces of your jelly roll strips aside.  They will be used for a scrappy binding.
Now you are going to repeat the process again with a slight change.  You need to make 4 more sets of strips but this time they need to measure 80″ when you add them all together.  I used three strips for these so I didn’t have 2 huge long strips.  Just use the measurements above and then add a 20″ strip.  Or do whatever math you like, as long as three pieces add up to 80 🙂  Add your remaining pieces of jelly roll strips to your scrappy binding pile  (You will have 4 whole jelly roll strips leftover that you can add to your scrap pile… you won’t need them for the binding 🙂

Now you are going to sew your sets together.  Grab your first set of two (that equal 60) and place them right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue this process with all of your sets.  Make sure to add the 3 pieces together on your 4 sets that are 80″ long.  When your sewing is done, clip your threads, and press your seams.

Now you are going to sew the now 60ish or 80ish strips into sets of 2.  So place one 60ish row onto a second 60ish row with right sides together.  Repeat for all of the sets, including the 4 sets of 80ish.

Once again, no need to pin, just align as you go sewing a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  If the edges don’t line up perfectly don’t worry, you have some wiggle room for that 🙂  When done, you will have a total of 6 rows that are 60ish” long and 2 rows that are 80ish” long.  The 80ish” strips you can set aside with your backing pieces.


Lay your top out now with the 60ish” jelly roll strip rolls in between your “Gem” block rows.  Now it is as simple as sewing your rows together, starting from the top and working down.

Lay your Jelly Roll Row onto your “Gem” row with right sides together.  Start sewing a 1/4″ seam along the edge (aligning as you go). Trim the excess at the end of the row.  Repeat this process for all of the rows.  Add the top and bottom jelly roll strip to the last row. Now just sew the rows together in the same fashion.

Your top now looks like this and you are ready to add the final borders.  Grab those sashings that you set aside way back when 🙂  Add the 64″ long strips to the top and bottom first.  Use the same process you did to attach the other grey sashings.  Trim the excess and press.  Now just repeat on the sides using your 88″ long sashings.  Trim the excess and press.

And your top is complete!! Aren’t you just so excited!!!


Grab that pile of backing pieces you have been setting aside.  Start with your “gem” row and your 2 12″ grey sashing.  Add the grey sashing along each side of your row.  Use the same process as you did to add the grey sashing on the front.  Trim the excess and press.  See that lovely sideways tree, oops.  I am glad you can all learn from my mistakes 🙂

Now grab those 2 80″ ish strips.  You are going to cut off a 20″ piece from each strip.

Now grab the remaining 60″ left on each set and add them to the top and bottom of your “gem” row.  Ya, you are a master at doing this now 🙂

Now you are going to add those two 20″ pieces to the sides of the row.  This won’t show up on the back hardly at all.  This is just so that you have the wiggle room you need for quilting.  Most LAQs prefer to have a few inches of overhang on the side to work with :).  So after you attach the sides, trim and press.

Grab your yardage.  Align the folded end of your yardage along the 0 horizontal line of your cutting mat.  Trim a nice straight edge.  Measure over 32″ and align your ruler along the top and bottom of your mat and cut.  Repeat this process 2 more times so that you have three 32″ pieces.

Take one of your 32″ pieces and open it up.  Cut along the folded line to make 2 pieces that each measure 32″ x 22″.

Lay your back out as follows.

Lay the 22″ wide pieces onto the full pieces with right sides together.  Stitch together using a 1/2″ seam.  This way you hide your seam allowance 🙂  Press.

Now go ahead and sew the three “rows” together.  Add the “gem” row to the top first and then the bottom to the now pieced together “gem” row and top.  Press.  And your back is done!!!


So you are ready to put it together now.   First – make your quilt sandwich. It really helps to tape your backing down onto a wood floor.  Baste the sandwich (the more pins the better).

Now onto quilting.  I quilted this on my my little Bernina so it can be done on a regular sewing machine.  I choose to do some custom quilting with some swirls, some small stippling, and some some loopies.   If you are new to quilting, there are tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting, just Google it and practice or you can always just send it out to be quilted.  There are some amazing long arm quilters out there 🙂  

Last but not least, binding.  Grab your that pile of scrappy binding pieces you set aside and sew them into a nice long binding strip.  If you are not sure on how to make a binding or attach it there is a great tutorial  here 

And you are done!!  Way to go!  Don’t you just love it!!!!

I would love it if you would email me (happyquiltingmelissa at gmail dot com) a picture of your quilt or add it to my Flickr Tutorial Page.  I just can’t wait to do a parade of quilts on my blog 🙂  

One beautiful, fun, quilt that measures 54 x 72 perfect to fit a twin size bed or to have around just waiting to be snuggled with 🙂

Melissa Corry

Criss Cross Quilt

Hi, its Karen from Lisnaweary Quilts, I’m back with a recipe for a cute cot quilt!I’ve used two charm packs of Just Wing it! and some Bella Solid fabric to whip up this colourful “Criss Cross Quilt.”

2 Just Wing it! Charm Packs

1yd White Bella Solid

1/2yd fabric for border 32446-14

1yd fabric for binding and backing 32442-21

2 yds fabric for backing 32440-27

1. From a charm pack, pick out 20 squares.

2.Pick out another 40 squares and cut in half to make 80 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces.

3.Place 4 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces around each of the 20 squares. (I could say to do this randomly, but I did spend some time arranging the fabrics and colours!)

4. Sew a 2 1/2″ x 5″ piece to two opposite sides of a square.

It should look like this:

Leave remaining 40 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces to one side.

5. Take 18 squares from charm pack and trim 1/2″ off two sides to give a square 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

6. Cut into 1 1/2″x 4 1/2″ strips.

Then cut 6 1 1/2″ x WOF strips from background fabric.

7. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ strips to the strips of background fabric.

8. Cut the strips into 1 1/2″ pieces and press open, press seam towards darker fabric.

9. Sew two pieces together to give a square with four small squares and a checked effect. Make 80.

10. Sew a square to each side of remaining 40 2 1/2″x 5″ pieces from step 4.

11.Sew these to original pieced rectangles. Make sure to match seams.

12. The squares should measure 9″ x 9″.

13. From background fabric cut 49 1 1/2″ x 9″ strips.

14. Sew 9″ squares together in rows of four, using background fabric as sashing.

15. From remaining squares in charm pack, cut 30 1 1/2″ squares.

16. Sew 1 1/2″ square to end of 1 1/2″ x 9″ strip, add another square. Continue until there are four background strips and six coloured squares in the row.Make six strips.

17. Join strips of pieced squares together using this sashing. Make sure to match seams.

Should look like this:

18. Cut 5 2 1/2″xWOF for border. Sew on border. Press.

Layer backing, wadding and quilt top.

Quilt as desired then sew on binding.

Don’t forget the quilt label!
A super bright and cosy cot quilt!

Finished size approx. 43″ x 52″

Sorry Roxy, its not for you!

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

If you make this quilt, please upload a photo of it to my flickr group, I’d love to see your quilt.

Check out my blog for more photos and chat about sewing!

Karen Maxwell
{Lisnaweary Quilts}

Charming Window Pillows

Hi!  I’m Angela from My Three Sons and I was a mechanical engineer in my life before kids.  Really an engineer to the core, I’m all about optimized processes and well-utilized materials.

I tried to figure out the best way to make the elusive cathedral window block.  So I’ll share some things I found for getting nice points and neat windows.  And they are a perfect showcase for your favorite charm pack.

We’re going to make two pillows here – most efficient use of materials and all.  Besides, once you get going on these fun windows, you’ll want to make a ton!  I especially hope you give them a try if cathedral windows are new to you.

1 Just Wing It Charm Pack
1 3/4 Yards Bella Solid Snow
4 Just Wing It Fat Quarters

Washable glue stick

2 Square pillow forms – 20″x20″
2 18-20″ zippers (optional)
Pink and Blue Matching thread (optional)

Step One: In which you fold fabric and steam it into submission

First, from the white yardage cut 5 strips the entire width of the fabric and each 10.5″ wide.

Subcut each of those 5 strips into 10.5″ squares so that you end up with a total of 20 pieces.  Since we’ll be folding our raw edges in, you don’t have to worry about these squares being perfect.

But you do need to make a perfect 9″ square out of poster board.  Use an old rotary blade and a square ruler to get straight edges and nice corners.

Find a washable glue stick – or go out and grab a Sewline glue pen.  I love mine.  It goes on blue so you can see where it is, then dries clear.

Center the poster board on a fabric square, then swipe the glue across two corners.  You want the glue to stick to fabric and not poster board when you make the fold.

Fold that edge over the poster board and hot steam iron it.  The glue keeps you from steaming your fingertips to a crisp!

Repeat the glue on each corner as all four edges are pressed.  Iron and steam well!  The better your square here, the better your end result. 

I had learned a couple of different things here.  DO NOT skip these first steps all together and make 9″ fabric squares to start off.  Raw points will show in the end and your hard work will be a big, fraying mess.  Second, folding both edges square helped me get the best finish and the little raw bit at the edge right now is completely covered by the time we get to the last step.

Pull out the poster board.  Then fold your square in half both directions, pressing a crease along each center line.

Open up your square with the raw edges pointing up.  Pick a corner and fold it into the center.

What you want to really line up is not the middle, but the outer edges.  I have circles at the points you want to watch.

More steam.  Press all four of those corners in.

See how all the outside corners are sharp?  Choose a sharp corner over an even middle.  It’s ok if the center points miss their match a bit.

Fold this square in half again, but just finger press some guides at each edge.

Last folds!  Steam press each point into the center, but this time you really want the points to meet neatly in the middle. 

After all four points are folded into the middle, you may end up with a square like this with a misbehaving corner.  For it’s trouble we’ll just shove it to an outside edge later. 

Grab your ipod and load it with some episodes of WNYC’s Radiolab, fill the water chamber of your steam iron, and crank out all 20 of your folded fabric squares.  We’ll only use 18, but you’ll be on a roll and the other two can become coasters or a pin cushion.

Step Two:  In which we get to use our sewing machine

For each pillow we’ll join up 9 of our blocks in to a 3×3 square.  Lay them out and arrange any troublesome corners to an outside edge.  The seam allowance will take care of them later.

To join two together, sit them next to each other and pull up the touching triangle flaps.  Pin these together. 

We want to sew right along that crease.  AND both creases should be matched perfectly.  To make sure I have things lined up, I put one pin in the crease….

…..flip it over and see that the pin actually runs along the crease on the back side as well.  If the pin isn’t in the fold, adjust your pieces and try again.

Once you’re all set, sew along the crease – back stitching at each end.   Join all the blocks in rows of three.

Grab two rows of three and place them back to back.  Pin the same as above to match all the creases.

Make sure you back stitch at the start and end of every triangle.  You don’t want the pillow falling apart when the kids flop on it.

When your blocks of nine are done, give one last press.   Hurray!  Now we get to do the fun part.

Step Three:  In which you create a colorful masterpiece

First we’ll work on the pillow I call “Railroad Berry Patch”  The colors remind me of nature walks with my Grandpa in Michigan.  We would walk along the railroad tracks where tons of red and black raspberries grew.  Yum!

Choose 9 charm squares for the oval petals, and at least 3 contrasting charm squares for the windows.

Grab one of the white windows, and measure your individual squares.

Trim all nine of the charms you chose for the ovals down to that size.

Open up each square and place a charm inside.  Make sure it lays flat.  You want it to completely fill the space without getting turned in the fold.

With the triangle flaps open, sew all the charm squares down.  I used a matching thread and zipper foot because there’s a lot of bulk on the sides.

Close all the triangle flaps so that we can force the fabric to our will again.  With white thread in the center of each, take just two or three machine stitches into all the points.  This anchor helps keep your points centered and even, and won’t show in the end.

Next, grab your three or more charms set aside for the windows and cut them into fourths.  A 2.5″ square is just perfect for the windows.

You only need 12 pieces to fill all the windows, but I cut a few more to give myself some options.

Pick a spot to start and pin the square into the window, with the pin running along side of your first edge.  This keeps the little fabric bit square and in just the right spot.

Fold the center of the window over your fabric – it’s about a 1/4″ in the middle.  It tapers perfectly to the tacked ends all on it’s own.  Keep holding and scoot everything under your needle.

Start at the very top, with your foot pointing along the curve.  Backstitch!

Just a little holding to keep things nicely curved, follow the edge closely.  At this size, it seemed like that curve was just perfect.  I didn’t feel I had to battle the machine to keep things neatly lined up.

Back stitch again at the very end.  Move your pin to the next edge….repeat…..

Quickly, one window done!  I love sewing these edges.  It’s so fun to see the fabrics revealed underneath as you go along.

See how nicely the points line up with that small tack in the middle.  Without the tack, my ends were all wiggly.

Once all your windows are done, be sure to open the petals along the outside triangles as well.

Next we’ll frame up the windows from about 13.5″ square to pillow size.

Square up the edge of your white yardage and cut four strips the width of the fabric: two at 2″ and two at 2.5″

From one of your fat quarters, cut four 1″ strips from the longer 21″ side, even though you don’t need the strips that long. This is important so that the remaining fabric is the right width for making the pillow back. 

Attach first the 2″ white strips to all four sides of your windows.  After they are all on and ironed open, neatly top stitch about 1/8″ from the edge.  Since the windows are so thick and heavy, the sides can use a little help to lay flat once stuffed.

Add on your 1″ FQ strips, then finally the 2.5″ white strips.

Square everything up to 20″.

Choose 10 charm squares.  We’re going to make some binding.

Sew them all end to end.

Press open your seams then slice the strip down the middle so you have two long pieces 2.5″ wide.

Join those two strips up.  Now press in half for your pretty roll of binding.

Make a 20″ square back for your pillow with a second fat quarter and about 6.5″ of the fat quarter you used as the front accent.  I like zippers in my pillows, you can do your favorite back.

Whatever you choose just place it face down, put your windows on top face up, and stitch them together 1/8″ from the edge.

Bind as you like, but I suggest you lay it out quickly before stitching.  With all those seams, you have to start carefully to avoid one landing right on a corner.


Next up “Lake View” with just the oval petals filled. 

Once again, choose nine charm squares.  I loved all the blues together.

Exactly like the first pillow, trim down those charm squares to fit inside each square and sew them down.

But I have another option for tacking your centers.  I used a short, tight zig zag/satin stitch, going only about an 1/8″ into each point.  This method works really well if your triangles have wider flat tips instead of sharp points.

I played around with doing that satin stitch in the blue, but I preferred matching the white.

Cut two more white strips 1.5″ the width of the fabric.  Join and top stitch like the first pillow.
Using the third fat quarter you chose, cut four pieces 3″ x 21″ , attach and square up the finished front to 20″

I used the last fat quarter to make my binding.  Cut four strips 2.5″ x 21″, join end to end and press in half.

Make this 20″ square back with all the remaining fat quarter strips from both pillows.  Baste and bind as above.


Two 20″ square cathedral window pillows.

Angela Nash

Just Playin’ A-Round!

Hi, Everyone!  I’m Val from PinkPlease!, cooking up my very first Moda Bake Shop recipe.  When I was making this play mat, I felt like half of the Jelly Roll was being cut off and thrown into my scrap bin.  I thought there has got to be a way to reuse these scraps … and Voila! … the changing pad was born!  You just can’t beat two quilts made from one Jelly Roll!

I am completely in love with all things MoMo, and when I saw her new fabric line, “Just Wing It,” I knew these quilts would be a perfect fit!  I’ve partnered up with Fat Quarter Shop to bring you a giveaway to help start your quilts.  You gotta play to win, so hurry on over to my blog for your chance!
1 Jelly Roll of MoMo’s Just Wing It (#32440JR) for top(s)
2 yards of Just Wing It (#32440 27) for backing(s)
1/2 yard (#32445 20) for binding(s)

I intermixed a few Bella solids, but you can definitely complete the top of both quilts with just one Jelly Roll.

***All seam allowances are ¼”.***

***Read the entire recipe before starting.  By doing this, you will learn how to make both the play mat and the changing pad simultaneously.

***It may not be a bad idea to use a stronger 90/14 needle since it gets quite congested in the middle of the quilt towards the end.  I used an 80/12 needle for both of these quilts, but on another play mat I made, I used an 80/12 needle and it broke when I got to the center of the quilt (when the quilt was almost complete), flew at me, and almost took my eye out.  …just sayin’!***

Creating the Play Mat

1.  Cut the entire Jelly Roll in half, creating 80 (2 ½” x  22″) strips.

2.   Set out all your strips in a circular pattern to determine your sewing order.  For the play mat, you will need approx. 68 strips.  (You’ll need to set aside 3 additional colored strips for your changing pad.)

3.  Choose your first strip and lay it right side up on your cutting mat.

4.  Cut the strip diagonally lengthwise starting at the top right corner and cutting to ¼” over from the bottom left corner (I know this sounds confusing so I’ve taken a close-up photo below for a visual aid). This ¼” provides the necessary seam allowance for attaching the next strip.  Make sure the selvage is always the widest part of your strip (this will be the outside edge of the quilt(s)) when you both cut and sew.  On second thought, it would be pretty cool to put your selvages toward the center of your quilt so the middle could scream “Mo Mo, Mo Mo, Mo Mo!”

5.  Here is what the first piece looks like after it’s cut.

The piece of the left will be used for the play mat,
the scrap on the right will be used for the changing pad.

6.  Don’t throw away the scrap you just cut!  This will be used to make your changing pad.

7.  With right sides together, pin (if you choose) and sew your second full uncut strip to the first diagonal piece, sewing from the outside (selvage) of the quilt to the middle/inside.

8.  Press seams open.

9.  Place the two pieces you’ve sewn together right side up on your cutting mat.  Cut the second strip (on the right) as you did in step 4 (above), starting from the top right corner and cutting on the diagonal down the length of the strip to ¼” over from the bottom left corner of the second strip.  

10.  With right sides together, sew the third full strip to the second diagonal piece.

11.  Press seams open.

12.  Place the three pieces you’ve sewn together right side up on your cutting mat.  Again, cut the third strip (the strip on the right side) as you did in Step 4, starting at the top right corner and cutting on the diagonal to the bottom left corner, leaving ¼” seam allowance intact.

13.  Repeat steps 3-7 for the remaining 65 strips.
Make sure to always leave 1/4″ in the center when cutting off your scrap strip.

14.  When it is time to sew the final seam connecting the last diagonally cut strip to the beginning first strip, I have found that it is most effective to sew this strip starting from the middle of the quilt and sewing toward the outside to make sure everything lines up nicely.  Sew slowly, so your needle can get through all those layers without breaking (and taking out an eye!)

15.  After you have sewn the last strip to the first, press the seams open.  As you will notice, the middle gets a little crazy.  When pressing, don’t worry about the middle so much.  Let it go where it wants to go.  Just make sure to press the seams open as well as you can on the outer portion of the quilt. 

16.  Your play mat will now look like this.

17.  Once you have the top completed, it’s time to sandwich, baste, quilt, bind, and wash your play mat.  When basting, I recommend used basting spray to hold the top nicely in place.  I quilted the entire playmat first and then trimmed off the selvages from the edges before binding.    

18.  When binding, make sure to cut your binding on the bias for maximum smoothness around the curves. 

19.  Here is what your finished Baby Play Mat will look like.  Throw it on the floor and be the envy of all the parents at your next play date!
Here’s the Back… (did I mention that I LOVE MoMo?)
Creating the Changing Pad

The changing pad is a breeze to make because your strips are already cut into triangles.  As scraps are cut from the play mat, you can start sewing them together to make this changing pad. Each time you cut a new scrap, immediately sew it onto the changing pad.  If you do it this way, you will be pleasantly surprised to have two completed quilt tops finished at the exact same time.  Keep in mind, the changing pad uses 3 more strips than the play mat, so if you want to add a strip into the changing mat at a specific spot, other than at the end, be aware of it while you are sewing and don’t forget to add it in.  I just added my three extra strips at the very end.  I know it doesn’t seem logical that the smaller changing pad uses more strips than the larger play mat, but it really does.  Here is a picture of what it will look like when you’ve finished the play mat and still need to add the 3 strips to the changing pad.

1.  You will basically be using the same technique as used in making the play mat.  Choose your first two strips you plan to sew together.  You can either follow the same order that you used for the play mat, or you can mix it up. I chose to follow the same order.
2.  Take your first strip and lay it right side up.
3.  Lay your second strip on top of the first strip (right sides together).  The pinked edge of the top piece (strip 2) should be on the right side. (This is the side you will sew).  Sew the two pieces together.

4.  Press seams open.

5.  Turn the two pieces you’ve sewn together right side up. If you’ll notice, the strip on the right looks a little wavy.  You’ll want to straighten’er up.

….Ahhh much better!

6.  With right sides together, sew the third strip to the second diagonal piece.  The pinked edge of the top piece (strip 3) should be on the right side.

7.  Press seams open.

8.  Turn the three sewn pieces right side up on your cutting mat.  Trim the strip up as you did before removing any waviness.  Make sure to leave your 1/4″ seam allowance at the bottom.

9.  You will now notice that there is extra fabric starting to accumulate at the center of your changing pad.  You will want to trim the center up all the way to where your piece on the far right is 1/4″ wide.  Measure the length of your fabric at this point.  Then, as you start adding strips to your changing pad, you will want to cut all strips to this length (see photo in step 10 below).  Here’s a picture to better show this.
10.  Trim your next strip to the same length as the others.  Pin and sew.
11.  Press seams open. Turn fabric right side up and trim so there is 1/4″ at the bottom-center of the right most piece.
12.  Repeat this process all the way around the changing pad.

13.  As with the play mat, when it is time to sew the final seam, connecting the last diagonally cut strip to strip 1, sew the seam starting from the middle and sewing toward the outer edge of the quilt.

14.  Once you have the top complete, just like the play mat, it’s time to sandwich, baste, quilt, bind, & wash.  

15.  Yeah!  You’re finished.  Now pat yourself on the back and admire your beautiful new quilts!! 

The finished play mat is approximately 38 ½” in diameter (after washing).
The finished changing pad is approximately 28 ½” in diameter (after washing).
I’d love to see the wonderful creations you come up with!  Please add your pictures to my PinkPlease! flickr group as well as the Moda Bake Shop flickr groups!
…oh, and if you’re interested in knowing the secret of how I magically photographed these levitating quilts…come on over to my bloggie blog for an all-access look behind the scenes.
Make sure to leave me a note!  
I love comments!