Oh, Good Night

Hello….I’m Jo from from Jo’s Country Junction. I’m here to share my first Moda Bake Shop project,”Oh, Good Night” with you. This quilt is simple to make as it is made with only two shapes, squares and triangles. The challenge to this quilt is organizing the layout…but don’t worry, it’s very do-able.

If you look carefully, you will see that you need to make 42 blocks. The remaining blocks are created with sashing.

Judi and Clint at Green Fairy Quilts have put together a quilt kit if you’d like to make your own quilt.

1 Fat Quarter Pack, Origins by Basic Grey
1.75 yards of background fabric
5 yards backing fabric

Full size quilt batting
No binding fabric is needed as the binding is cut from your fat quarter pack

Easy Angle Ruler

From your background fabric, cut:

17 – 3.5 inch strips.
Sub cut into: 165 – 3.5″ squares and 48-easy angle triangles.

I am a HUGE fan of my easy angle ruler. It saves fabric and it just makes sewing triangles together easier. If you haven’t used this ruler before, don’t panic….

For easy instructions to use your easy angle ruler, follow this link to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction.

From your fat quarter pack you will need to cut 72 sets of 4 – 3.5″ x 3.5″ squares and one 3.5″ strip. Sub cut the strip into 4 easy angle triangles. Being my background was the solid brown, I chose not to use a few of the prints.

This quilt has a scrappy binding. To achieve this you will need to cut a 2.5″ strip from 16 of your fat quarters.

Start sewing:

Make 42 “blocks” as shown. Yes my instructions are correct. We will add the corners later. The remaining pieces will be sashing.

Pick four of the blocks to be your corner blocks. Add background triangles to three of the corners.

Pick 18 blocks to be along the edge. Add two background corners to those blocks.
Now lay the blocks out as shown, putting the edge blocks along the edge and corner blocks at the corners. You should have a 6 x 7 design layout.

Take the remaining cut pieces and start filling in the spaces as shown. You really need a design wall or floor space for this. Take your time doing this. It’s not hard at all…it’s just easy to get the pieces in the wrong spot.

Turn the triangles on each corner over, pinning the triangle in place. Sew. Then iron the block.

Now go back and pin the three sashing squares that are between the blocks together and sew.

Then sew the row of blocks to the sashing pieces creating a row.

Pin together and sew the squares that create the sashing between the rows.

Sew the sashing rows and the rows of blocks together to create the quilt top.

Seam the backing together. Quilt as desired.

Your finished quilt should be 69″ x 81″.

To get more information on purchasing a quilt kit, visit Green Fairy Quilts.
To learn how the quilt got it’s name and to see more pictures of the quilt head on over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction.

Jo Kramer

City Windows Table Runner


Finished Size: 14″ x 30″
Seam Allowance: 1/4″ unless otherwise stated

We are very excited to be sharing our first recipe on the Bake Shop! City Windows is a versatile runner that works great with any fabric style. We love it because it requires just one charm pack and an additional 1/2 yard of fabric to complete the entire project: front, back and binding! You’ll want to keep this pattern on hand as you check out all the new Moda lines. Be sure to order a charm pack of your favorites!

For more information on our quilt shop, please visit www.quiltedtreasures.net. Stop by our blogs and say hello, we’d love to hear from you! Visit Mary at Pieces of Work and Kristina at Sew Domestic. ENJOY!!!

1 charm pack
1/2 yard background and binding
1/4 yard binding (only if you’d like something other then the background fabric)
STEP ONE: Select TWELVE of your favorite charm squares (5″ squares) from your fabric pack.

STEP TWO: Cut 5″ squares in half so you have 24- 2 1/2″ x 5″ units

STEP THREE: Match up TWELVE pairs of 2 1/2″ x 5″ charm units.

STEP FOUR: Chain stitch pairs together along the 5″ edge.
STEP FIVE: Press towards the dark. You should now have TWELVE units that measure 4 1/2″ x 5″
STEP SIX: Cut units (4 1/2″ x 5″) in half again to make 24- 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ units
STEP SEVEN: Sew THREE pairs of 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ units together to make SEVEN groups of six squares. Alternate light and dark so that seams match up better.

Make SEVEN. Finished units should measure 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″

(please note: you will have a couple of 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ units leftover)

STEP EIGHT: Cut your background and binding. (WOF= width of fabric)

first cut: 1-5″ x 18″ subcut: 1- 5″ x 5″ square AND 4 units- 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″

first cut: 1 strip- 4 1/2″ x WOF subcut: 4 units- 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″

first cut: 2 strips- 1 1/2″ x WOF (sashing)

first cut: 3 strips- 2 1/2″ x WOF (join for binding)

Here’s what you should end up with:

STEP NINE: Select THREE charm squares from your pack and your ONE 5″ background square.
STEP TEN: Cut charms in half so you have EIGHT units that measure 2 1/2″ x 5″
STEP ELEVEN: Pair up units as shown below, combining prints and background.
STEP TWELVE: Sew units together along 5″ edge and press towards the dark.
STEP THIRTEEN: Cut units in half again so you have EIGHT units that measure 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
STEP FOURTEEN: Sew units together as shown below. Finished squares should measure 4 1/2″
STEP FIFTEEN: Layout the front of your runner as shown below. Sew long rows together first, pressing towards the prints. Next, sew pieced rows to sashing, pressing long rows away from the sashing.
STEP SIXTEEN: Layout back of runner with remaining 21 charm squares (3 x 7 set). Please note: you will have a couple of charms leftover. Recommendation: use scant 1/4″ seam allowance when sewing runner back together.
STEP SEVENTEEN: Layer with batting, quilt as desired, bind and enjoy!

One speedy Table Runner 14″ x 30″

Organic Style

Hello from Fresh Cut Quilts!  It is my pleasure to bring you this simple, yet elegant pattern. This pattern makes a 69″ square lap sized quilt.  I chose to back this quilt in Moda’s Snuggle Solids, because it makes every quilt so cuddly and warm on a chilly day. With fall just around the corner and the winter holidays right after, it will be the perfect quilt to make for your home or for your loved ones this year.

I have partnered with Craft Town Fabrics to make kits available for purchase. Please visit their website to purchase a kit for this darling project!
I hope you enjoy!

Kari Ramsay
Fresh Cut Quilts Pattern Co.

1 Origins Jelly Roll (or Jelly Roll of your choice)You will use (30) 2 1/2″ strips
1 1/4 Yards Bella White Solid or White Graph Paper from Origins
1 1/3 Yards Refresh Dot 30236-11 for outer border
1 yard Onyx Grunge 30150-99 for the circle accents and inner border
1/2 yard Graph Paper Kelp 30239-17 for the binding
4 1/2 yards Snuggle Solid in Cream, Brown or Black for the backing

Heat n’ Bond Lite or Wonder Under fusible web, thread to match circle accents, one 16″ pillow form optional for the extra block, an Olfa circle cutter, or EZ Circle Cutter can be most helpful for cutting perfect circles.

Cut (6) Inner Border Strips 2 1/2″ x WOF (Width of Fabric)
Cut (7) 6″ x WOF Outer Border Strips
Cut (25) 1 1/2″ x WOF White Bella Solid Then cut in half at the fold to yield (50) 1 1/2″ x 20″ pieces

Sort the Jelly Roll strips into 5 groups of (6) 2 1/2″ strips each.  This may help keep the colors sorted for the blocks.

1. Cut all 30 of the Jelly Roll Strips in half at the fold to yield (60) 2 1/2″ x 20″ strips

2. Sew 1 white strip to one side of each of the  2 1/2″ x 20″ Jelly Roll roll strips, then press toward the darker fabric.  Be careful to keep this long strip straight to avoid curvy strips.

3. Sew one Jelly Roll strip to the white strip, and press.   Continue by adding a Jelly Roll strip to each white strip and alternating until there are six “dark” 2 1/2″ strips and five white 1 1/2″ strips sewn together.  The block should begin and end with a dark 2 1/2″ strip.

4. Press the blocks and trim to 17 1/2″ square.

5. Sew the blocks together alternating horizontal and vertical stripes.  You will have one extra block leftover which would make a perfect 16″ throw pillow!

6. Measure the quilt top and using that measurement, trim and then sew the inner border strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top. Measure the quilt top vertically and use that measurement to trim and then sew the side inner borders to the quilt top.

7.  Prepare the circles for appliqueing to the border strips.  For instance, if you are using fusible web as I chose to do, iron the fusible to the wrong side of the circles and then trace the circle and cut them out.  If you are hand or invisible machine appliqueing the circles prepare them as you normally would, then proceed to step 8.

8. Layout the circles on the outer borders in a way you think is desirable. Fuse or pin the circles to the borders.  

9. Pin and sew the borders to the quilt top. Then sew the circles to the borders.
Quilt and bind as desired!

I had mine quilted in canary yellow thread by Wendy Nabhan of Eagle Mountain Quilting

1 lovely Lap Quilt Measuring 69″ x 69″

Kari Ramsay

Fresh Cut Quilts Pattern Co.

Knotty Jumper with Ruffled Leggings

1 jelly roll – Origins
1 yard of coordinating fabric

2 yards of jumbo rick rack

The following instructions and measurements are for a size 18-24 month knotted jumper and the ruffled leggings. 

Begin by cutting your strips into fourths.  Align them in a color combination you prefer and sew them together.  I sewed 32 strips to form this skirt.  Press your seams open when finished.

Prepare the bottom of the dress by cutting a piece the same length as all your sewn strips and 5 inches tall.  Fold it in half and press it.  Sew it onto the bottom of the strips.  The folded edge will become the bottom of the dress.  (Optional: Sew on the rickrack so that is covers the seam where the strips and the bottom fabric meet.)
Make the straps by taking one full strip and folding it in half.  Sew the edges, but leave an opening to invert it.  Clip your corners, invert, and press.

Cut 4 pieces from this pattern included in the Printer Friendly PDF.  Take two of the pattern pieces and place them right sides together. Sew the sides only – not the cut out area for the arm. Repeat this with the other two pieces.

Now you essentially have two loops of fabric.  Place one inside of the other with the correct sides facing each other. 
Insert your straps as shown.  Now sew the two layers together all around the top (along the opening for the arms and across the top).  

Cut slits along the curved seams and clip your corners.  Invert and top stitch.
You should have this.
Next you’ll join these two parts.
Sew two gathering stitches along the top of your skirt.  Pull the threads and adjust the fabric until it matches the circumference of the top of the jumper.  Sew them together and then sew a zigzag stitch on the inside of the seam.

Sew two button holes for the straps to pull through. 

For the leggings, cut one jelly roll strip in half.  Hem one side and sew a gathering stitch on the other side.  I recommend marking a line on the leggings with a water soluble pencil to help you sew it on straight.

Sew them onto the leggings as shown (as though it’s upside down).  When you’re finished you can iron the ruffles down to help them settle.

1 Knotted Jumper with Ruffled Leggings.  Depending on the size of the jumper you make, one jelly roll could make 2-3 jumpers.

Feel free to visit me anytime. Thanks!
Cheri Heaton 

Crossing Paths

Hello, Moda Bake Shoppers!! It’s KarrieLyne again from Freckled Whimsy! I’m so pleased to bring you my second bake shop goodie, Crossing Paths.

I’m also excited to share that Leah over at Burgundy Buttons has everything to make this quilt top in a kit, just for you! She also has backing fabric at a great price too! So hop on over and pay her a visit to pick up this kit. Make sure to tell her I said hello. 🙂


1 Layer Cake
1 1/2 yards of a light solid or near solid (30150-92)
1 1/4 yards for outer border  (30232-17)
2 1/2 yards dark solid or near solid for blocks, first border and binding (30150-99)
4 1/2 yards for backing (30234-17) & batting to match size

*Using the light yardage, cut (18) 10” squares.
*From the black, cut (18)  2” strips. Then cut those in half to yield 32 strips.
*Cut 8 more 2″ strips from the black for your 1st border.
*From the black fabric cut 8 strips 2.5″ wide to use for the binding
*From the outer border fabric, cut width of fabric into 8 strips, measuring 4.5″ wide.

Using the solid squares you cut, draw a line from top to bottom of each solid piece measuring 5” from the edge. (Right down the center).

Choose 18 layer cake pieces. I tried to keep out the lightest ones and the dark solids. Keep a good mixture of lights and mediums.

Put a layer cake piece and a solid piece RIGHT SIDES together.

Sew 1/4” seam on each side of that drawn line.

Cut on drawn line.

Press to dark. Yield two pieces.

Do this for all 18 pairs.

Pair them again so that each pair has two different prints from the layer cake. I paired mine all at once so I wouldn’t get duplicates. 🙂

On one of the pairs, on the WRONG side, draw a vertical line at 5” from the edge. Make sure your first sewn line is horizontal, or left to right.

Put your two pieces RIGHT sides together so that your print is on TOP of your solid. Your seams should nest nicely.

Sew 1/4” seam on each side of your drawn line.

Cut on drawn line. Press.

Each pair will yield 2 Four Patches. Do this process for each pair. You should have 36 Four Patches when you’re complete.

Cut from corner to corner through the LIGHT SOLID in each Four Patch block. Do not cut through the prints.

Sew one of the 2” black strips to one side of your triangle piece. Make sure you have some (at least an inch) of overhang on each end. Press to the dark.

Fold the piece with the strip in half, corner to corner and gently finger press the fold to create a line in the fabric. Flip the other triangle over top, RIGHT sides together, and line up the edges and the point of the triangle to the creased line. This is so it will be centered.

Sew the pieces together. Press to the dark.

Trim the two corners. (This is why you want at least an inch of overhang!)

Do this for all 36 Four Patches.

Arrange four of these “Four Patches” per the below photo.

Sew the top two blocks. Press to one side. Then sew the bottom two blocks and press to the opposite side. Then sew the top and bottom pieces together to form one large block.

**NOTE** Your blocks will not all be the same size so you will need to match up your seams, not the edges of your blocks. This will create overhang on each side of your new block (the 4 four patch blocks).

Now trim those hangover edges so your block is square. They should measure about 19.5″ square.

Lay out your blocks 3 x 3, again making sure to match your seams. If your edges don’t line up, this is ok. Once you have the top together, you will square up the sides if needed.

Once you’ve squared up the edges (if necessary) add the 2″ black border, then add the 4.5″ print border. Then sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, bind and wash! 🙂

One Crossing Paths quilt measuring about 69″ square (before washing)!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please, oh please share it with me! You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.  I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to email me HERE.  I am happy to help.

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!


Strip-pieced Pleated Skirt

Hi! I’m Sarah and I’m so excited to share my very first Moda Bake Shop recipe! You can find some of my other sewing projects on my blog, http://sew.sarahbdesigns.net.

This fun strip-pieced child’s skirt features a drop waist and box pleats and is created using strips from a single jelly roll! Add an appliqued t-shirt for a complete coordinated outfit!

1 Jelly Roll, Basic Grey’s Origins
3/4″ wide no-roll elastic for the waistband (measure to fit)
18″ – 24″ of 5/8″ or 3/4″ wide coordinating ribbon
Sewing Machine
Coordinating thread

Rotary Cutter
Seam ripper
Coordinating t-shirt
Paper-backed fusible web
Embroidery floss or machine embroidery thread


For best results, use the child’s waist, hip and waist-to-knee (or wherever you’d like the skirt hem to reach) measurements. If those measurements aren’t available, use the chart below to estimate.

Size/Age 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Waist 20-1/2″ 21″ 21-1/2″ 22″ 22-1/2″ 23″ 23-1/2″
Hip 22″ 23″ 24″ 25″ 26″ 27″ 28″
Waist to Knee 9-1/4″ 10-1/2″ 11-3/4″ 13″ 14″ 15″ 16″
Strip Length 9″ 10-1/4″ 11-1/2″ 12-3/4″ 13-3/4″ 14-13/4″ 15-3/4″

For a custom-fit skirt, look at the hip measurement in inches. You will need an even number of skirt strips, so for comfort and a bit of room to grow always round up to the next even number. (For example, a hip measurement of 24 -1/2″ would round up to 26, so 26 strips are needed for the best-fitting skirt.)

Fabric Selection and placement:

This step is where your creativity can really shine! I’ll give guidelines to create a skirt similar to the finished one I’m sharing, but be sure to check out the “More Customization” section for additional options!

1. Determine how long the skirt strips need to be, either using the chart above or based on the hip to knee measurement. The skirt strips will be cut just 1/4″ less than the hip to knee measurement. My daughter’s measurement was 13″ so the strips for her skirt need to be 12-3/4″ long.

The number of strips you need depends on the hip measurement:

Hip Measurement
Number of Jelly Roll
strips needed
How to create full skirt panel
Less than 22” 
(size 2)
4 panels of 6 strips, remove 2 after cutting
22” to less than 24”
(size 3-4)
3 panels of 8 strips
24” to less than 26”
(size 5-6)
3 panels of 8 strips, add 2 after cutting
26” to less than 28”
(size 7-8)
2 panels of 14 strips

3. Select 2 Jelly Roll strips: 1 to use for the elastic casing and another for the drop waist. Set those strips aside for now.

3. Place the skirt panel strips out on a table or floor to help determine the arrangement you’d like. I really like the look of alternating the color of strips so that the strips that form the outer portion of the pleat are a similar color and the inner pleats are all another similar color or an alternating color pattern as shown in the photos below. As you can see, one Jelly Roll can give completely different looks!


1. Sew all strips (except the drop waist and casing strips) together with a 1/4″ seam along the long edges in the order of your choice. Trim down to size and sew strip panels together if needed. Press seams toward the outer pleat and topstitch on the outer pleat 1/8″ from seam for a cleaner finish.

2. With a rotary cutter or scissors, trim off the selvage and cut the large skirt panel down to size. Cut each panel to the strip length given in the Measurements chart, or for a custom skirt, 1/4″ less than the hip to knee distance.

(Set aside any remaining fabric– you may want to use it for a coordinating shirt applique!) If you need a few additional strips to make your skirt wide enough, cut those Jelly Roll strips to size now. If you need to remove any strips, use your handy seam ripper to remove strips from a single panel.

3. Attach any additional strips you may need and sew unfinished sides of each strip panel, right sides together, with 1/4″ seam, creating a tube of strips. Press seam toward outer pleat and topstitch 1/8″ from seam as before.

4. To create the box pleats, first fold the inner pleat fabric in half width-wise and finger press a mark. (Fold and rub your fingers together along the folded edge to create a crease.)

Fold the adjacent strips at the seam and bring together at the center crease of the inner strip.

Pin vertically near the seams, at least 2 pins per pleat. Repeat for each strip.

5. Stay-stitch the skirt 1/4″ to 3/8″ from the top edge to secure pleats.

6. Lay the strip-pieced skirt panel flat and measure along the top pleated edge. If your seams were an accurate 1/4″, the side-to-side measurement, multiplied by 2 should equal the number of strips you used. If not, that’s ok! We measure here to make sure the drop-waist piece will fit properly. (My skirt was just a tiny bit wider than expected, as you can see.) Make a note of this measurement!

7. Double the stitched skirt width measurement and add 1/2″ for seam allowances. Cut 2 Jelly Roll strips to that length. One will be for the drop waist and another will form the casing.

My folded skirt measured 13-1/8″ so 13-1/8″ x 2 = 26-1/4″. Add in seam allowances (26-1/4″ + 1/2″ = 26-3/4″) so the drop waist and casing strips for my daughter’s skirt needed to be cut 26-3/4″.

8. Take the drop-waist piece, place right sides together and stitch short edges together with a 1/4″ seam. Finish seam as desired. (I’ve made the thread look dark here for contrast, you will want use coordinating thread. I pressed the seam allowance to one side and used a line of topstitching 1/8″ from the seam to secure the raw edge and prevent fraying.)

9. Turn the drop waist piece wrong-side-out and place over strip-pieced skirt. Align at the pleated and basted edge, pin in place, and stitch together with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Serge, zigzag or overcast the raw edge to eliminate fraying. Press seam towards the drop waist and topstitch 1/4″ from seam on the drop waist piece.

10. To form the casing, take the final strip, turn both short edges to the wrong side by 1/4″. (I used a different fabric to demonstrate here so right and wrong sides would be better visible.)

Stitch 1/8″ from edge to create clean finished opening to insert the elastic later.

Fold the casing strip in half, wrong sides together, and press if desired. With the beginning/end of the casing placed where you’ve decided the bow should be and the casing strip on the right side of the drop waist piece, align the raw edges and pin the full length of the strip. Stitch with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Finish the raw edge (I used an overcast stitch), press seam to drop waist and topstitch 1/4″ from seam just as in the previous step. (Photo shows finished seam before topstitching to secure the finished seam allowance.)

11. Fold the lower edge of the skirt up toward the wrong side 1/4″, then again another 1/2″. Press and topstitch to finish the skirt’s hem.

12. Using a safety pin or your preferred method, insert a piece of elastic cut to the waist measurement through the casing. The 3/4″ elastic will be a close fit, but you should be able to thread it though the casing. If not, switch to narrower elastic.

Overlap by 1″ and stitch elastic ends together, then work the elastic seam into the casing to hide it.

13. The final step to finish the skirt is adding a bow! Insert ribbon under elastic at the casing opening. Knot in place to hide the elastic and tie a bow. I put clear nail polish on the ribbon ends to prevent fraying and remove the ribbon to launder the skirt.

The skirt can be worn with the bow in front or in the back.  To create a fuller skirt, press the pleats just at the top, but leave the lower portion of the skirt uncreased.

More Customization Options:
There are so many ways to make the Strip-pieced Pleated Skirt completely yours! Here are just a few ideas!

  • Instead of repeating fabrics throughout the skirt, try using a different Jelly Roll strip for each skirt strip!
  • Use a Bella Basics Jelly Roll to make the outer and/or inner pleats solid, for a less scrappy look.
  • Use narrower or wider panels! Instead of following the guidelines above, try one of these combinations!
Hip Measurement
Number of Jelly Roll
strips needed
How to create full skirt panel
Less than 22” 
(size 2)
3 panels of 8 strips, remove 2 after cutting
22” to less than 24”
(size 3-4)
or 12
(short skirts only, size 3)  4 panels of 6 strips
or 2 panels of 12 strips
24” to less than 26”
(size 5-6)
2 panels of 12 strips, add 2 after cutting

Optional appliqued t-shirt:

To create a complete outfit, select a coordinating t-shirt and cut shapes out of the remaining Jelly Roll fabric and/or stitched-together strips! Use paper-backed fusible web to create an applique and fuse onto shirt. Finish raw edges by hand with embroidery floss or on your machine with a zigzag, satin or decorative stitch. You can see more info about how to create this shirt at http://sew.sarahbdesigns.net.

One Jelly Roll can make several skirts. Make additional coordinating skirts for sisters, cousins or friends! Just repeat the instructions above with left over strip panels, remaining Jelly Roll strips and extra elastic and ribbon.