Renaissance Waves Quilt

Hello!  My name is Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts, and  I am pleased to bring you my first Moda Bake Shop project!  I call this quilt ”Renaissance Waves” and this one I have made in ”Redwork Renaissance”  by Cloe’s Closet.  I just love the classic feel of an all red and white quilt.  Simply timeless!

If you visit my website, I have an additional tutorial to share made with the leftovers from this quilt.

1 jelly roll (#32620JR – Redwork Renaissance by Chloe’s Closet)
1 3/4 yards for panels (#32625-11 – white with rows of red print)
1/2 yard binding (#32624-12 – red with white polka dots)
3 1/2 yards backing (#32623-12 – red with white flowers)

**note** all seams are 1/4”

Step 1:
Unroll your jelly roll and sort into 8 stacks of 5 strips.  Try to get as much contrast between each strip set as you can.

Take each set of 5 and sew them together lengthwise:

Fold the strip set in half lengthwise so the top edge meets the bottom edge.  Sew this seam together to form a tube:

Cut the selvage edge off one end and then continue to cut the tube into 2 1/2” widths:

You should get 17 pieces from one jelly roll strip.  You will make 3 blocks with each strip set (with 5 of the subcuts) and you will have 2 subcuts leftover.  Set the two leftovers aside for now.

You will see that each subcut is a ‘tube’:

Take each of the ‘tubes’ and with your seam ripper, open up one seam on each:

You will open each of the tubes at a different seam so that the block can be arranged with a focus fabric on the diagonal.  In my first block, the focus fabric is the red with the white cherries:

Here is where it’s a good time to re-press the parts.  I took strip 2 and 4 and pressed the seams in the opposite direction so that the seams will ‘nest’ and your seams will match perfectly:

Sew the 5 strips together to make your first block:

Now, the next set of 5 strips, you can either arrange the same as the first, or you can pick a different focus fabric and the block will look totally different.  I picked the red on red flower print for the focus fabric for my second block:

Now continue with your 3rd set of 5, and either make another block the same, or pick a different focus fabric.  I chose the red on red print with the tiny flowers for my focus fabric for my 3rd block:

Continue with the remaining strip sets in the same manner until you have 24 blocks (setting the two extra subcuts aside for each strip set, you should have 16 extras set aside total by the time you are finished).

Arrange your twenty-four 25-patch blocks into rows of 6, arranging them so the middle focus fabric alternates directions so it flows from one block to the other.  Sew them into long patchwork strips.  They should be 60 1/2” long.

Now, take your 1 3/4 yard of your panel print – and cut it into 3 strips 10 1/2”x 60 1/2”.  You will have some leftover (set this aside for now).  Attach the 3 long panels between the 4 patchwork strips.  PIN PIN PIN this long seam before you sew, or you will get puckering (even with my dual-feed Pfaff I had to pin).
You will end up with a quilt top measuring approx 70 1/2”x 60 1/2” :

Layer your quilt sandwich, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!  I decided to quilt mine with straight lines in the large panels following the stripes in the fabric, and with zigzags following the patchwork blocks.

One approx. 60”x70” quilt.

Don’t forget to come visit me at for the bonus tutorial!


Grandma’s {Playtime} Buntings Quilt

Hi! I’m Kimberly from My Brown Bag Studio and I’m really happy to be back again with my second project for the Bake Shop kitchen. Working with this line of fabric was literally like a walk down memory lane… it seemed that each print reminded me of my Grandma more than the last. And creating a quilt with bunting just brought vintage and modern together perfectly!

1 – 30’s Playtime Layer Cake
1- Bella Solids Charm Pack in Snow
1/2 yard Bella Solids in Snow for border
3 1/2 yards Blue Bonnet 3258614 for backing
3/4 yard Blue Bonnet 32585 14 for binding
6 3/4 yards of jumbo white ricrac
basic quilting supplies
red thread if desired for contrast stitching.

1. Open your layer cake and choose 36 squares for your quilt. Make sure that the kitten you got for Christmas is sound asleep at this point.

2. Layout the squares in 6×6 rows the way you like them.

3. Sew together with 1/4″ seams

4. Press to one side, each row opposite.

5. Matching seams, sew rows together.

6. Press quilt flat and set aside.

Now we’ll make the prairie points… My quilt used 35 prairie points for the bunting flags, but you may choose to use more or less. I also had white layer cake squares available to me, so I cut them down to charm square size. The simple process was like this… cutting 5″ squares…

1. Press a charm square in half.

2. Press the two corners down to make a point.

3. Voila! The prairie point!

4. My 35 prairie points.

Check on that kitten again before moving on… because to a kitten, a quilt out on the floor is just way too tempting… believe me, I know!

1. Layout your quilt and position the prairie points in bunting-ish swoops.

2. When placing my prairie points, I loosely measured two fingers between each to keep them evenly spaced.

3. When you come to the edge of your quilt, be sure to leave a generous seam allowance (more than 1/4″) so you don’t sew into the prairie point when you attach the border.

4. Pin. Pin, pin, pin. Pin all the prairie points in place, making sure not to disturb the lines of the bunting-ish swoops.

5. Using a scant 1/4″ seam, stitch the prairie points in place using white thread, just to hold them in place.

6. Using either white or red thread and a generous seam allowance, sew the two folded edges to the quilt. A generous seam allowance will make for a quilt with interesting texture once it’s quilted and washed. On my girlfriend’s advice, I used a red thread and I really love the contrast it gave. Thanks for the idea, Andrea!

Adding the Ricrac…

I thought long and hard about how to sew the ricrac to my quilt. I didn’t just want a seam down the middle, because then the raw edges at the top of the prairie points would be exposed. So I came up with a zigzag stipple and it worked just fine.

1. I set my machine to a long zigzag stitch…

2. I practiced a little with a back and forth stipple…

3. …and jumped in. I took my ricrac, let it hang over the edge of the quilt a little to ensure that it would be caught in my borders, and then stipple quilted it on. I really took my time to try to unsure that the stippling covered the ricrac well. I didn’t pin, but curved the ricrac as I went to follow the top of the prairie point flags.

4. Trim overhanging ricrac after it’s all sewn on.

Cut your border fabric into 2 1/2″ strips and sew on with 1/4″ seams, pressing towards the body of the quilt so your seams don’t show through the white.

Layer your quilt top with batting and backing. I used Warm and Natural batting, and pieced a center seam to make the backing fabric the correct size.

Quilt as you like. I stipple quilted on all the squares, avoiding the prairie points and ricrac. I also did two lines of straight line quilting… one in the border ditch with white thread, and another outside that one in red thread to match the detail on the prairie points.

Add the binding{my favorite part of quilting}…

At this point my quilt is unwashed but I’m looking forward to enjoying the vintage-ish crinkle when it comes out of the dryer.

Now where did that kitten get to? It’s time for a cuddle…

Grandma’s {Playtime} Buntings Quilt measures about 60″ square.

Kimberly Friesen

Color and Tag Along Blanket


Hello! Megan here from Downtown Housewife! Check out my sweet little “Color and Tag Along Blanket” made up of Lil’ Rascals fabric! It’s the perfect size to fit in a diaper bag, purse or your wee one’s tiny hands. The colored appliqué is a great way to get those wee hands involved in some crafting! Ready made kits will be available at “Sew Sweet Quilt Shop”… just drop them an e-mail or phone call!

1 charm pack
1/4 yard for border
1/4 yard for binding
1/4 yard white or cream solid fabric for appliqué
Portable luminaire for tracing
Washable fabric pen
Sewable heat bond (approx. 11” x 20”)
Lightweight fusible interfacing (4” x 8”)
Fabric crayons
Rotary cutter and mat (or scissors and ruler)
Coordinating thread
Backing: 34” x 34”
Batting: 34” x 34”


First cut three pieces of your solid white or cream fabric to fit the design you will be tracing.

Begin by printing and then tracing the 3 downloadable templates. If you prefer other templates they are easy to make! Simply scan the fabric and enlarge the desired image to the desired size.

To trace the appliqué picture onto the fabric you will need a light box. If you do not have one you can use a lighted window or projector.

To use a light box you place the paper on the box with the fabric over it and trace the design with a washable fabric pen.
Once the designs are traced, attach the fabric to the heat bond. This will make the fabric more stable and make coloring much easier!

Make sure to test your fabric crayons on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure you are using the right colors.

After you use the crayons, you will place fabric or paper over the colored picture and run the iron across it to set them. This can change the color dramatically; therefore testing colors is highly advised.


For the border you will need:
2 (4” x 28”)
2 (4” x 34”)
For the binding:
4 (2” x width of fabric)

For the blanket handle:
4” x 8” scrap piece of fabric
4” x 8” piece of light weight fusible interfacing


The majority of this little blanket is simply charm squares. You will sew 6 rows containing 6 charm squares each. After the 6 rows are made up, simply sew them together to complete the middle.

Bluff City-Piney Flats-20111206-01548
Next, attach the border. Begin by sewing the 2 (4” x 28”) pieces. One on each side of the center piece. On the remaining top and bottom place the 2 (4” x 34”) pieces.

Once the border is on you can place your applique pieces where you like and iron them in place.

Now that the appliqué pieces are stable you can stitch around them. I prefer a very small, tight zig zag stitch with a coordinating thread but feel free to experiment! Use a fun decorative stitch on your machine or do a little hand stitching!

Now that your quilt is pieced, colored and appliquéd you can quilt it as you wish and follow up with the binding.

Take the 4” x 8” fabric piece and fusible interfacing and iron together. Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Next, fold in half lengthwise with right sides together. Sew sides together and turn right sides out. This will form a tube. Iron flat.





Finished size: 34” x 34”

Yeah! You are done! Enjoy your new blanket whether it’s for your own wee one or a gift for someone else!

Megan Frock
{Downtown Housewife}

Dog Harness Tutorial

Hello Everyone, I am Seema Mohan SK. This is my 1st tutorial with Moda Bake Shop and I am totally excited about it! I hope you will enjoy this tutorial. Please do stop by my blog Hooks, Needles and Brushes to say “Hi”. I am also on twitter as @sskcraftshop and FB….see you soon.

1 piece of printed Fat Quarter

1 piece of solid color Fat Quarter

1″ Curved Side Release Buckle

1″ D Ring (Steel or Nickel Plated)

1″ Heavy Duty Plastic Adjuster

Interfacing (small piece)

1″ wide Webbing

Step 1: Measure your dog around the neck for the collar, neck down to chest and also make note of the measurement where you will need to cut the curve below the arm .

Please remember the measurements will vary with your dog’s size and weight. The above template measurement is just an idea for you to create your own template The measurement provided is based on my dog Rusky who is a medium sized Pomeranian, weighing 10.5 pounds.

Step 2: Prepare the template. Cut 2 chest pieces from printed fat quarter and 1 piece from interfacing (optional). Press the interfacing on wrong side of 1 of the chest piece of harness.

Step 3: Cut long piece of fabric for collar by measuring your dog’s neck around. Fold the fabric on both sides and place webbing (optional) inside and sew it on all sides.

Step 4: Cut 3 more pieces of long fabric strips using solid color fat quarter. I used the following measurements: 5″, 11″ and 22″ in length and 3″ wide, however, it may differ a little for every dog. Fold the fabric in half and then fold 1/4″ inch as you did in collar above, then place webbing (optional) inside it and sew as you would sew the collar.

Step 5: Place the ends of the collar strip between the right sides of the chest piece as shown above and pin it. Sew from top till bottom, however, leave 1/4 inch at the end and do the same on the other side.

Step 6: Pull the collar and chest piece right side out from the bottom opening. This is how it will look after you turn the right side out.

Step 7: Fold the fabric inner side and sew from top as shown above.

Step 8: Place the D ring in the medium sized solid color band. Fold it over the collar and sew 2-3 times.

Step 9: Sew the other part of the strip by forming a loop.

Step 10: Attach the small strip to the bottom part of the chest piece and insert the male part of the buckle as shown in picture above.

Fold and stitch 2-3 times to make it sturdy as shown above.

Step 11: Attach the bigger strip to the other end of the harness chest piece. Slide the adjuster and female part of the buckle.

Now insert the unstitched part of the strip in the adjuster as shown above.

Stitch the part that you just passed through the adjuster. Stitch 2-3 times to make it sturdy

This is how it will look once stitched. Trim any excess thread at this point. Pass the female part of the buckle through the loop made just below the D ring.

Click!!!!! Your Harness is Ready and now all you need to do is….

take your furry friend out on a walk….. Enjoy!!!

Makes 1 Harness.

Seema Mohan SK

Field of Tulips Quilt

Hello! My name is Crystal Hendrix. This is my very first Moda Bake Shop Recipe! I have had a lot of fun putting it together. You can visit me at my blog and see other things that I make.

This is a fun quilt to help get everyone in the spring spirit!

1 layer cake 1933 by Chloe’s Closet

1 charm pack 1933 by Chloe’s Closet

1 3/4 yard Bella Solid Feather (background color)

1 ½ yard green color for borders

3 1/2 yard of any color for the backing

5/8 yard of any color for the binding

Take from your layer cake and your charm pack, coordinating colors for the tulips flowers.

Cut layer cake piece into 10” x 6 7/8”

With the remaining piece of the layer cake, cut it into (4) 2 1/8” squares.

With the charm pack piece, cut it into (4) 2 ½ “squares.

With the Bella White fabric cut into (4) 2 ½” squares. Then draw a diagonal line across square.

Pin each 2 ½” white square to each 2 ½” colored square.

Sew a ¼” from the diagonal line on each side.

Cut on the line of each square.

Press open toward the colored side, then clip off tag pieces.

Arrange in the following diagram and sew together.

This makes 1 tulips flower. You will need 20 tulip flower blocks.

Once you have all of your flower blocks done, arrange your blocks to fit your preference.

For sashing, you will need to cut (49) 10”x2 ½” pieces out of your Bella white.

Then cut (20) 2 ½”x 2 ½” squares out of your green border color.

Lay out your design and sew each row into place. Press to one side of each row.

Once you have all of your rows (sashing and tulips) pin at seams and sew together. If you flip your sashing piece you will have your seams butt together nicely.

Now after all of your rows are sewed together, it is time for the green border you will need to cut (7) 5”x42”.
Then lay out your quilt top and with your borders. Sew the vertical pieces on first, then the horizontal pieces on.
After you have sewed on your borders and have pressed them, you can now baste, quilt as desired and bind.

One Spring Quilt approximately 58”x69”

Sweet n Shabby Woven Pillow Cover

One Honey Bun – featured Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet
One fat quarter (for backing)
16 inch pillow form
17 inch square of muslin or other fabric
Heat n’ Bond sewable (light) iron on adhesive

buttons, pompoms, chenille, ribbon

Since the pillow we are making is 16 inches, we will cut the backing fabric 17 inches square. I just used whatever white fabric I had available, as it will not show. Use a clear acrylic quilters rule to mark pencil lines 1 to 2″ apart. Both vertically and horizontally. This will be somewhat of a guide to keep you straight and on track as you lay the fabric strips down.

Cut several 1/2″ strips of Heat n’ Bond.

Apply them to the backing fabric with a hot iron, about an inch apart

Pull all the paper strips off, exposing the adhesive (the lower five shiny rows you see above).

Determine how many strips from the honey bun you need for your square. For this size I needed 22 1.5″ wide strips (11 horizontally & 11 vertically). Pick the fabrics you will be using

and cut them into 17 inch lengths. (nip off those white selvage edges first.)

This next picture shows how I start a strip in the middle, one for each direction. For an accurate measure, I just butt strips side by side starting at the edge and leave the one in the middle.

Now you just start weaving strips in one at a time. Pretty much like we did in grade school, but in this case it is easiest if you start in the middle and work your way out. Alternating one horizontal and then one diagonal.
See how I just flop every other strip back to weave in a new strip? Then lay them back down and go do the same thing on the other side. When you complete the first corner, you might want to carefully slide it onto the ironing board for a quick press of the finished area (I used a large cutting mat to transport it) and then put it back on the worktable to complete the weaving.

When you get to an end piece it’s helpful to pin back the strips that you are weaving under.

When the entire square is satisfactorily woven, go to the ironing board and press the piece well. Except for every other little end piece flapping loosely, it’s relatively secure at this point, but I would suggest you sew up and down each edge for added security (You will see I did that in the next photo). If you are adding a fabric silhouette piece, do so now. It’s easiest if you back a contrasting fabric with the iron on adhesive, cut out your shape, iron it down, then stitch around it.
If you are adding pompom trim to the edge, do so now. For beginning sewers who haven’t yet added trim like this, I’ll give a quickie lesson. Lay the pompom trim down with the poms facing inward as shown, butting the edge of the trim to the raw edge of the right side of your woven pillow top. Then sew a half inch seam all around. I like to sew in a little curve around each corner, rather than turning a sharp 90degree angle at each corner.

(Remember to note in the above photo how I sewed up and down each raw edged strip).

Now take your 18×22 fat quarter, trim it to 17×22, and cut in half so that you have two pieces that each measure 17×11. On one long side of each of those do a scant hem running the 17″ direction. (I fold over once, press, then zigzag stitch). Pin each of these two rectangles to your pillow front, right sides together, hemmed edges toward the center, and corners matching (I flapped up one end to illustrate the overlap you will have)
Now sew around all four sides, and turn your pillow cover right sides out. A lot of people might choose to just stitch a 17×17 backing square most of the way around, leave a little opening, turn right sides out, fill with stuffing and whip stitch the opening closed, but this way you can easily remove the pillow insert and wash the cover as needed.

Make small marks on both sides of the pillow back, for two ribbon closures as shown.
I cut four equal lengths of ribbon, six or seven inches long. With each of the four pieces, place an end on the marked spot with the right side of the ribbon down as shown, stitch back and forth 2 or 3 times,
Then, without taking the piece from the machine, leave the needle in the down position in the fabric, raise the machine foot, flip the ribbon over right side up, and stitch back and forth over the ribbon 2 or 3 times again.

Don’t you agree this is a nicer way to finish a pillow? I thought you would!

The sweet shabbiness happens after you wash it a time or two.

When I pulled this out of the dryer I had to cut off a lot of threads that had unraveled from the raw edges, but because Moda uses a mini zigzag cut on the edges(they think of everything!) it is really quite minimal. Just the right amount of ‘fuzziness’, in my opinion.

I really had such fun making this and kept having ideas for other ways to decorate it so I had to immediately make a second one. I remembered I had some of this instant *chenille* that I’d bought several years ago.

(You can find it here and there online if you google “Chenille-It”)

I did not stitch down each side of each strip as I did above, I just laid two strip of the chenille tape (double layer for extra fluffiness) down over each strip edge and sewed down the center as shown in this next picture

Then, as you can see, I thought about putting pom poms at each or every other intersection, but ultimately I decided to add buttons.

I think for this option to really work you want to have a wide variety of buttons. A real “Grandma’s stash” assortment. 🙂

The *magic* happens with this chenille after a machine wash and dry.

I can’t say it was “fun” sewing down 100 buttons through all the layers, but I am glad that I did it. 🙂

Well, now I have TWO very similar pillows, so I think I’ll give the bird and pompoms one away to someone. Come leave a comment on the pillow post at my blog and it might be to YOU! WINNER HAS BEEN DRAWN. THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO CAME AND COMMENTED!

Two pillows with a fair amount of leftover strips and pieces for another project on another day.

Triple Irish Flower Quilt

EDIT: September 3, 2009 Many people ask about making this quilt larger. It is based on a Triple Irish Chain quilt from the book, Time for a Chain by Nancy J. Smith & Lynda S. Milligan by POSSIBILITIES. It is available on and has all sizes for quilts, and strip widths…It is the best I have found for Irish Chain quilts! 
This is a modified Triple Irish Chain, based on a quilt I made a few years ago. The pink Irish Chain in the next photo is a reproduction of an antique quilt. The antique quilt was made with 1930’s fabrics and rose colored flowers. The borders were the left over strips sewn on the bias, the original was beautiful.

~~One Honey Bun roll, I used 1930 Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet, any line would be great!
~~1 1/3 yard Moda Snow Bella solid (white) edit: not Moda Snow, use Moda White

~~1/4 yard Moda Christmas Red Bella solid, or any solid color you would like your flowers!

~~ 1-1 1/2″ strip of solid yellow (the 1930 Hello Betty Honey Bun has one strip)

~~1/3 yard Chloe’s Closet fabric for binding

Snow white fabric: Cut 6 strips 5 1/2″ width of fabric
Cut 2 strips 3 1/2″ width of fabric
Cut 3 strips 1 1/2″ width of fabric
From the 5 1/2″ strips, cut 12-5 1/2″ squares, set aside.

Yellow fabric: Cut 1 strip 1 1/2″ width of fabric, or use the one strips from the Honey Bun

Red fabric: Cut 5 strips 1 1/2″ width of fabric

Binding fabric: Cut 5 strips 2 1/2″ width of fabric, sew together end to end

Red, white and yellow strips.

White 51/2″ squares.
SEWING: All seams are 1/4″

Choose 25 colors from the Honey Bun, I didn’t use any solid colors, only the prints.

You will be sewing the strips together on the long sides the full width of the fabric. These strips sets are lettered. It may be helpful to color on graph paper the placement of the strips, then you can letter them.

1. This is set “A” It is three print strips, one white, and three prints. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
2. This is set “B” It is seven print strips. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
3. This is set “C” It is two print strips, three red strips, two print strips. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
4. This is set “D” It is one white strip, one print, one red, one yellow, one red, one print, and one white strip. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
5. This is set “E” It is one print strip, one 3 1/2″ white strip, one print strip. Make one set. Press all seams one way.

6. This is set “F” It is two print strips, one 3 1/2″ white strip, two print strips. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
Now you will cross cut these lettered sets into 1 1/2″ strips.

From set A: Cut 26-1 1/2″ strips
From set B: Cut 26- 1 1/2″ strips
From set C: Cut 26- 1 1/2″ strips
From set D: Cut 13- 1 1/2″ strips
From set E: Cut 24- 1 1/2″ strips
From set F: Cut 24- 1 1/2″ strips
Now you will sew these 1 1/2″ strips together to make two blocks: The flower block, and the white block.
1. This is the flower block. Make 13 blocks. Press all seams one way.
These are the letters of the strips for the flower block:
2. This is the starting of the white block. Make 12 blocks. Press all seams one way.

These are the letters of the strips for the white block:

E—3 1/2″ white strip—E
3. For the final part of the white block sew “F” strips to the sides. Continue for all 12 blocks. Press all seams all one way.
These are the letters of the strips for finishing the white block:
F—-3 1/2″ white strip—F
4. Now you will set the blocks into rows, alternating flower blocks with the white blocks as below starting with the flower block, five blocks across and five blocks down.
Every other row starts with a flower block. This is now the CENTER. Press well. I like to spray lightly with starch on the front as I press.
5. Sew remaining 5 1/2″ white strips together end to end for borders. Measure the CENTER side to side. Cut 2 strips that measurement and sew border strips to top and bottom of CENTER. Press seams toward borders.6. Measure the CENTER length. Cut 2 white strips that measurement and sew to sides of CENTER for borders. Press seams toward borders.
7. Quilt, bind and enjoy.

I used a piece of Picket Fence from Chloe’s Closet that I had on hand for the binding. You could use a solid red, or a piece from the line of fabric.

One darling baby quilt, or Summer table topper!

Finished size 45″ x 45″

Betty’s Baby Bowtie Quilt

One charm pack of Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet for Moda
1/2 yard Bella Solid Ivory (sku 9900-60) block background
3/4 yard Bella Solid Betty Pink (sku 9900-120) alternating blocks
1/3 yard Bella Solid Betty Green (sku 9900-121) binding
1 yard backing, batting 36 x 44

Select 32 charm squares from your Hello Betty Charm Pack. From each square cut (2) 2 1/2 inch squares and (2) 1 1/2 inch squares

Cut (64) 2 1/2 inch ivory squares
Cut (31) 4 1/2 inch pink setting squares

For each bowtie block you will need (2) 2 1/2 inch and (2) 1 1/2 inch bowtie squares and (2) 2 1/2 inch ivory squares
Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of the 1 1/2 inch squares

Place a small square on each of the 2 1/2 inch background squares and sew on the line. These are your knot units.

Sew your block together as shown :

Press center seam open if desired, for a flat center

Make 31 more blocks! They’re super fast. Set in 9 rows of 7 blocks alternating bows and pink setting blocks, using completed quilt as a guide. Layer and quilt as desired. This old fashioned quilt is perfect for grid quilting (on sample) or meandering! Bind with Betty Green Solid and enjoy!

Press towards the knot and cut away the back of the knot fabric in the middle, leaving the background piece.

One very cute old fashioned looking bowtie quilt 28 x 36 inches.

Betty’s Baby Bowtie Quilt by PamKittyMorning

Quilted Nap Sack with Layer Cakes

1 Layer Cake or 30 squares (10″ x 10″) – Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet is featured
2 1/4 yards of coordinating fabric for sashing, binding, and pillow
4 yards of coordinating fabric for inside napsack and pillow.
1 Twin Size batting (I used Kyoto Bamboo Blend Batting by Luna – Quilt batting by Moda)
1 12 x 16 pillow form
1 3/4 yards of 7/8″ Grosgrain ribbon in a coordinating color.
Snap Kit (need 2 snaps)
Coordinating Thread
Fray Check by Dritz

Mettler Cordonnet thread in a coordinating color

Step One:
Gather all your ingredients together.

Step Two:
For the back of the nap sack, lay out 18 of your layer cake squares – 3 across and 6 down
For the Front (cover) of the nap sack, lay out 12 of your layer cake squares – 3 across and 4 down.
Step Three:
From the coordinating fabric for the Sashing, cut the following:
9 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x 33″
20 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x 10″
Step Four:
Sew the 10″ strips in between each of the 10″ squares in each row. (2 strips for each row)
Step Five:
Sew the 33″ strips between each row and above the top row of the cover of the nap sack.

Step Six:
The back and cover should now look something like this. Align the back and the cover from the bottom up. The sashings on the cover should all meet up with the sashings on the back.

Step Seven:
With right sides together, pin and sew one of the sides together. It doesn’t matter which side.

Step Eight:
Open and press all the seams down.
Step Nine:
From the 4 yards of coordinating fabric for the inside of the nap sack, cut the four yards in half creating 2 – 2 yard pieces.
Step Ten:
Match the right sides together at the selvages and sew together using a 1/2″ seam allowance. You are creating the inside of the nap sack. Once the selvages are sewn together you should have a large piece of fabric that measures approx. 2 yds x 2 1/2 yds with a seam down the middle.

Step Eleven:
Lay out the inside fabric face down on an area large enough. I like to use my carpeted floor because I can pin the fabric down into the carpet. Pin or tape (if on hard surface) your fabric down tight so there are no wrinkles or creases in the fabric.

Step Twelve:
Layout your batting on top of the wrong side of your inside fabric. Then lay the pieced fabric on top of the batting right side up creating a sandwich effect. The middle seam of your pieced fabric should line up with the seam of your inside fabric. This will become the seam that you fold your nap sack on.

Step Thirteen:
Safety Pin all three pieces together so there is no shifting or bunching when you quilt it.

Step Fourteen:
Quilt your nap sack however you desire. I used the Mettler Cordonnet thread in a teal color and stitched just on the inside of both sides of the sashing.

Be sure to refer to your sewing machine manual for what they suggest when using a thicker thread like Mettler Cordonnet. You may need to adjust your tension just a bit. I used it as both the top and bobbin thread, which in the future I may just use regular thread in the bobbin and the the decorative Cordonnet thread as the top thread for smoother sewing.

To finish it off, I tied off the nap sack in the center of every square with the Mettler Cordonnet. You can then trim off all the excess fabric using the pieced layer as your guide.
Save the large scrap piece for your pillow center.
Step Fifteen:
For the pillow you will need to cut the following…
From the inside fabric, Cut:
1 – 12″ x 16″ rectangle for pillow center
(use your large left over scrap piece that was cut away after quilting.)
From the coordinating fabric for the sashing, binding, and pillow, Cut:
1 – 2 1/2″ x 20″ strip for pillow flange
2 – 2 1/2″ x 12″ strips for pillow flange
1 – 3 1/2″ x 40 1/2″ strip for pillow flange
1 – 18″ x 20″ rectangle for pillow back
Sew the two 2 1/2″ x 12″ strips to the pillow center as shown below. Press seams.
Step Sixteen:
Sew the 2 1/2″ x 20″ strip to the bottom of the pillow cover.

Step Seventeen:
Take the 3 1/2″ x 40 1/2″ strip and match the ends and with sew right sides together.

Step Eighteen:
Flip the strip right side out and press. The seam should be at the end of the strip. Pin and sew the reversible strip to the top of the pillow. Press.

Your pillow front should now look like this from the right side…

and like this from the back side…

Step Nineteen:
Take the 18″ x 20″ rectangle for pillow back and fold and press the top of the fabric down towards the wrong side of the fabric about 1″, then fold down and press at about 2″. Sew about an 1/8″ on either side of the rolled hem.

Step Twenty:
Lay the back of the pillow face up and then place the top of the pillow face down matching the bottom and sides.

The pillow top will be slightly longer than the pillow back so that when stitched down to the nap sack you can still slip the pillow form in and out for easy washing.
Pin and stitch the sides and bottom of the pillow together. DO NOT SEW THE OPENING AT THE TOP.

Step Twenty One:
Snip the corners for a clean point and turn the pillow cover right side out. Press.

Step Twenty Two:
Stitch about 1/8″ outside the pillow center to create a pillow flange. Do not sew the top closed. Only create a pillow flange on the sides and bottom of the pillow.
Step Twenty Three:
Center the pillow cover to the top of the nap sack. Pin and sew the pillow top to the top of the nap sack using a 1/8″ seam allowance.
Step Twenty Four:
Cut 7 -2 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric) strips for binding from the same fabric you used for the sashing. Create your binding and bind your napsack as if you were binding a quilt. Sew the binding all the way around the edges of the napsack. Be sure to only sew the top of the pillow into the binding.

Step Twenty Five:
Cut two pieces of your coordinating ribbon each one measuring 30″ long. Fold each ribbon in half.
Apply Fray Check to the ends of the ribbons to prevent fraying.

Step Twenty Six:

Fold the nap sack so that the bottom edges match with right sides together. Pin the nap sack along the bottom and up the side just to the second sashing.

Place the folded end of the ribbon in between the two layers creating a “sandwich”. Each ribbon should be centered on the sashings and the loose ends of the ribbon should be inside the napsack. Pin.

Step Twenty Seven:
Sew along the bottom of the nap sack and up the side until you get to the top of the second sashing. With your needle down turn the foot so it angles off the end of the napsack to close off the seam. I like to backstitch a few times over the ribbon ends and at the angle off the end for reinforcement.

Step Twenty Eight:

Turn the nap sack right side out. The ribbon ends should now be hanging out towards the bottom of the nap sack.

Step Twenty Nine:
Following the instructions for your snaps, attach the snaps to the ends of the ribbon. These will be used when the nap sack is rolled up for easy toting. You may need to roll up the napsack when attaching the snaps to see exactly how the snaps need to be attached so that it closes properly.

Step Thirty:
Insert your pillow form in the back of the pillow.
DONE! Now a happy kid has a cool nap sack to take to sleepovers.

To roll up the nap sack, start at the pillow rolling the pillow into the nap sack until you reach the end. Use the ribbon snaps to close it up and carry along.

Makes 1 nap sack for stylish sleeping.
Add an applique’ letter or other applique’ image to the pillow cover for a little personality.