Class of ’42 Reunion

Greetings!  I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska.  I love all things Sweetwater so as soon as I saw this line, I knew I had to create something to show it off.

Reunion was such a fun name for this fabric collection.  It got me doing a little reminiscing of my own. 

Instead of family reunions though, the fabric made me think of high-school reunions.  Once I had that on my mind, I had to go dig out my collection of high-school yearbooks and take a little trip down memory lane. 

As I was looking at the rows and rows of class photos, I could see rows and rows of layer cake squares lined up just the same way.  Then the perfect name for my quilt popped in my mind  –  Class Reunion!  I picked the year ’42 since the quilt is made with 42 squares from a layer cake.

A special shout-out goes to Cozad’s Wilson Public Library for allowing me to photograph my quilt on their shelves and borrow some color-coordinated yearbooks for my props. Just one of the many blessings of small-town life.

Glad you could take a minute to humor me and listen to my little quilt-naming tangent.  Now let’s dive in and sew!

1 Reunion Layer Cake (42 squares 10″ x 10″)
1 fat quarter OR 1/3 yard of your favorite print for extra blocks
2 yards American Blue Bella Solid for sashing and binding (9900-174)
5 yards print for backing

Quilt Finished Size: 57 1/2″ x 80″


Begin by cutting two 10″ squares from your favorite fat quarter (or 1/3 yard cut). 
Add these two squares to your layer cake for a total of 44 squares.

Choose 30 of the 10″ layer cake squares to use for the large blocks in your quilt.  Set aside for later.

The remaining 14 layer cake squares will be used for the rectangles in your quilt during the next step.

Take the 14 remaining layer cake squares and cut each square into two 4 1/2″ x 10″ rectangles.  I like to trim the pinked edge from the side of my 10″ square, then cut my two rectangles.  Just a personal preference; you can leave it on if you want. 

Leave the pinked edge on the top and bottom sides of the 10″ square.  If you trim if off, your rectangle will be too short.

You’ll now have a total of 28 rectangles 4 1/2″ x 10″.
Prepare your sashing/binding fabric to cut lengthwise strips.  Leave the fabric folded in half lengthwise, just as it comes off the bolt.  Be sure to keep the selvedge edges carefully lined up.  Your fabric will measure approximately 21″ x 72″ as you lay it on your cutting mat.  Now fold the fabric in half crosswise so that you have a piece approximately 21″ x 36″.  This piece will be a more manageable length to handle. 

You should now have four layers of fabric.  Be sure to keep the edges aligned.  If you don’t keep the edges carefully lined up, you’ll have a bow or dip in your strips. 

Trim off the selvedge edges of the fabric.  I cut part of the way down the fabric and then carefully scoot the fabric down to finish cutting the length of the strip.

Cut six 2 1/2″ wide segments lengthwise.  Due to the way the fabric is folded, this will yield a total of twelve strips 2 1/2″ x the LENGTH of the fabric. The strips will be 2 1/2″ x 72″ long.

Eight of the strips will be used for sashing.  The remaining four strips will be used for binding.
Trim the eight sashing strips to 2 1/2″ x 57 1/2″.
Leave the remaining four strips 2 1/2″ x 72″.

I like to arrange all the blocks for my quilt on my floor (or if you are lucky, a design wall) before I begin to sew.  This lets me play around with the fabric placement before I commit to sewing.  Below is a drawing of the completed quilt to help you better visualize my fabric placement before you get started.
Arrange (30) of the 10” squares in 5 rows of 6 blocks each.  Position the 2 1/2″ x 57 1/2″ blue sashing strips in between the rows of blocks.  Leave room in between each row to come back and arrange the 4 1/2” x 10” rectangles.  I like to start with the big blocks first to get a feel for how my quilt will look.
Now arrange the (28) 4 1/2” x 10” rectangles into four rows of 7 blocks each.  Stagger the placement of the rectangular blocks so that the seam between those blocks will line up with the center point of the square blocks.  Don’t worry yet that the rectangle rows are longer than the square rows.  We’ll trim up those blocks as soon as we have all the blocks placed where we want them.

Are all the fabrics where you want them now?  Move any around that you want. 
NOW we can trim up the end blocks on the rectangle rows so that everything will all line up.  Take the END block from each of the rectangle rows and trim it to 4 1/2” x 5 1/4”.  
Each rectangle row will now have (5) 4 1/2” x 10” blocks in the center of the row and (1) 4 1/2” x 5 1/4” block on each end. 
Sew the blocks into rows.  Each row should measure 57 1/2”.
Join the rows of blocks and sashing together. 

Quilt using your favorite design.  My super-talented, machine quilting friend, Janet Andres, of The Quilter’s Canvas used interlocking circles across the large blocks.  She quilted evenly spaced rows of zig-zags across the rectangle blocks.
Bind using the remaining 2 1/2” strips.  Join strips diagonally end to end. Bind using your favorite method.

One quilt 57 1/2″ x 80″  –  the perfect size for snuggling up on the couch and looking through your own collection of year books.  How about calling up some friends and having your own impromShoptu “reunion.”

Maybe you were one of those girls in school who had your own sense of style . . .
Try out this versatile quilt in any of your favorite layer cakes for a change of pace.

Shown below is Curio by Basic Grey.

This quilt works great too in the La Petite Ecole line by French General.  The Alphabet Panel was the perfect size for trimming to 10″ squares for use in some of the large blocks.

Like what you see?  We have kits in the shop at so that you can recreate the look of any of colorways pictured above.

Thanks for taking time to sew with me.

Julie Geiger

Gym Dandy Bag

Thanks for checking out my project.  This is my fourth Bake Shop post and I couldn’t be more excited.  What an honor to be part of this talented group of designers.

In addition to designing patterns for bags, quilts, runners, and wool felt projects, I also own Prairie Point Junction quilt shop in Cozad, Nebraska.  Be sure to stop by and visit us if you happen to be traveling across Nebraska. You can find us online at or on my Prairie Ramblings blog at

This handy little bag is perfect for transporting clothes to and from the gym  – or especially for kids to take gym clothes back and forth between home and school.  It is lined with PUL, a water resistant fabric, to keep the rest of the things you’re carrying along all nice and tidy.  The bag also works great for wet swimsuits! 

I’ve tried to make the tutorial pretty detailed so that even a novice sewer can accomplish this project with great success.  Don’t let the zipper scare you away  –  I’ll show you just how easy it is.

Happy sewing,


  • 1 Fandango Charm Pack (will need at least 21 charms)
  • 1/2 yard Fandango (27050-11) for bag top and handles
  • 1/2 yard PUL  –  water resistant fabric
  • 14″ zipper
  • 505 Temporary Basting Spray
  • thread to match fabric for bag top and handles
Choose 21 charm squares for patchwork.

Cut each into two 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces.
From the 1/2 yard for bag top and handles cut:
(2) 3″ x 36″ pieces for handles
(2) 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ pieces for tote bag top
(2) 5″ x 14 1/2″ pieces for bag facing
(1) 1 1/2″ x 4″ piece for zipper tabs
From the PUL fabric cut:
(2) 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ pieces for tote bag lining
Now that the cutting is out of the way, you’re ready to get down to the business of sewing your bag.
First, we’ll sew the patchwork for the bag bottom:
Arrange the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles cut from the charm pack in rows of 7 rectangles each.  You’ll need a total of 6 rows  –  3 for the bag front and 3 for the bag back.  In my pictures below, I just show three rows.  There’s no magic formula for arranging the rectangles, just do whatever you like.  Mostly the only thing I shoot for is making sure that the same colors/prints are not side by side. 
Start sewing the rectangles together into rows.  I like to save time when I can, so I chain piece my rectangles together.  To get started, pair the rectangles (in column two) right sides together with the rectangles in column 1.   Sew each together, but keep sewing when you get to the end of each set, “chaining” the sets together like little sausage links.

Now, take your chain over to your ironing board.  Keep them all chained together  –  resist the urge to cut them apart!
Press the seams for each row in opposite directions.  This will help your seams nest together when you join the rows and will help you line those seams up perfectly. 
Don’t cut that chain apart yet . . . .  Head back over to your sewing machine.
Pick up the pieces from column three.  Sew each piece to the appropriate row in your chain.  Keep on chaining those pieces together.  Take them over to the ironing board.  Press seams in opposite direction.
Repeat with each column until you’ve sewn the rectangles into 6 rows of 7 rectangles each.  I’ve just shown three rows below.

Join three rows together to form the bag front. Then join three rows together for the back of the bag.  Remember how you carefully pressed the seams in each row in opposite directions?  That’s going to come in handy now.  Your seams should just nest right beside each other to help you perfectly line up where seams intersect.  I find that I don’t usually even have to pin the seam at this point since everything matches so nicely.  But that’s just me  –  feel free to pin if you like.

Press the seams for the bag front up –  and the seams on the bag back down.  That will help the seams nest when you join the sides together later.

Whew,  now it’s starting to look a little more like something, right?

Prepare the handles for the bag.  Fold the 3″ x 36″ rectangle in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.  Press.

Open the strip and bring the raw edges together to meet at the center fold.  Press.

Fold strip in half lengthwise again and press.

Topstitch close to both sides of the handle.

Place raw ends of handle along the top edge of the bag front.  Position the edge of handle along the seam between the 2nd and 3rd rectangle in the top row.  See the picture below for placement suggestion.  Be sure that your handle lays flat and doesn’t have any twists in it from one side to the other.  Baste the handle in place.  Repeat on the bag back.

Sew the 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ bag top section to the pieced bag bottom, catching the raw edge of the handle in the seam.  Be sure to keep the loop of the handle out of the way of your stitching.

Press towards bag bottom, flip handle upwards.

Topstitch next to the seam on the patchwork section.
Next we’re going to apply the PUL to the back of the bag sections.  {PUL} stands for polyurethane laminated fabric.  It is designed to be water resistant.  Here are few tips for sewing with PUL that will make sewing much easier:
  • The slick side of the PUL is the right side, the knit side of the PUL is the wrong side.
  • Be sure to keep any pins within the seam allowance of the PUL fabric to avoid piercing the fabric and compromising the water resistant nature of the fabric.
  • Do NOT directly iron the PUL fabric.  It can melt and cause a huge mess.
  • Sew with PUL fabric on the bottom layer, when possible.
  • When sewing with two layers of PUL, it may be helpful to place a layer of tissue paper on top of the PUL fabric.
  • Lengthen stitches slightly and use a walking foot, if available.
Now that we have that out of the way, we can carry on  . . .
Put some newspaper or other scrap paper on your floor or cutting table to protect the surface from overspray.
Lay the 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ piece of PUL on the paper with the knit side UP and the slick side DOWN.
Spray lightly with 505 brand temporary basting spray.
Lay the bag front wrong sides UP on another piece of paper,  Be sure to keep handles tucked under the bag.  Lightly spray with basting spray.  By spraying both the bag and the PUL, you’ll create a better bond to hold the pieces in place for sewing.
Very carefully lay the knit side of PUL on the wrong side of the outer bag, matching up raw edges.  Smooth out wrinkles as best as you can.
Baste a very scant 1/4″ around entire bag to hold layers together.  Be sure to keep your basting within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t pierce the PUL beyond the seam allowance.
Repeat with bag back.
Prepare the facing next.
Finish one edge of the 5″ x 14 1/2″ facing piece.  Fold under a scant 1/4″, along one raw 14 1/2″ edge, press.  Fold under 1/4″ again, press.  Topstitch close to folded edge.   Repeat on second facing piece.

The next steps will prepare the zipper.  A zipper  –  EEEK  –  you say?  No worries, this zipper method is easy peasy.  You’ll wonder why you’ve never done a zipper before.

Prepare a tab for the zipper ends.  This will be just like making a “binding” for the end of the zipper.  It does away with all that funky little bulky business of the zipper stop that can create tons of problems for the zipper-phobic crowd.

We’re going to follow the same basic steps that we used for the handle above.  First fold the 1 1/2″ x 4″ fabric for the zipper tab in half lenthwise with the wrong sides together.  Press

Now, unfold the strip, and fold the raw edges in to meet at the center crease.  Press.

Now, fold one more time and press.

Grab your zipper.  Open it just a few inches.  Sew the ends of the zipper together so they’ll stay where you want them later.  (Sorry I changed zipper colors on you for a few pictures.  I got a little carried away sewing and forgot to take pictures, so had to back-track.)

Trim off the zipper stop at the end of the zipper.

Tuck the basted end of the zipper into the binding strip you created.  Topstitch along the edge of the binding strip, catching the zipper in the binding. 
Trim the binding strip even with the edges of the zipper.

Cut the zipper down to 13 1/2″.  Tuck the raw end of the zipper into the remainder of the binding strip.  Topstitch along edge of binding strip.  Trim binding strip even with edges of zipper.

Position the zipper right sides down on the bag front, centering along the width.  The zipper should be 1/2″ shorter on each side than the width of the bag.  That’s O.K.!  This will accomodate for the width of the seam allowance and a little bit of extra bulk to boot.

Carefully pin the zipper to the bag, making sure to keep any pins within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t puncture the PUL. 

Baste a scant 1/4″ from edge of zipper.  You can either use a zipper foot for this step, or can actually use your regular sewing foot  –  BUT  –  it will be helpful to move your needle position clear over to the far left.  (Be absolutely sure you are using a sewing foot with a wide opening  –  NOT a 1/4″ foot, or you’ll break your needle).

Layer the raw edge of the facing piece right sides together with the bag front, catching the zipper between the layers.  Sew facing to bag using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  I find it easiest to sew from the wrong side of the outer bag.  That way I can see where my basting stitches were and can make sure that I am sewing a deep enough seam to encase them.

Fold the facing to the inside of the bag.  Now, if you are super careful, you can do just a tiny bit of pressing here.  Use a cool iron and very carefully, press the seam ONLY along the zipper.  Do NOT touch the PUL with your iron.
Lay the bag back right sides up on your table.  Align the raw edge of the zipper, right sides together with the bag back.  (The right sides of the bag front and back will be touching).  Stitch a scant 1/4″ seam allowance to attach the zipper to the bag back.
Layer the raw edge of the remaining facing piece right sides together with basted edge of the zipper.  Sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Fold the facing to the inside of the bag.  You can gently press here just a little bit again.
Topstitch close to the zipper tape along the seam.  You can either use a zipper foot for this step, or you can move your needle position all the way to the right.
Here’s what your bag should look like now:
Now it gets just a tad bit tricky.  The next step looks a little strange, but stay with me here, it really does work. 
First of all, be sure to OPEN your zipper  BEFORE proceeding.  If you don’t, you’ll sew your bag all the way shut and won’t be able to turn it inside out without ripping open your seam allowance that you just worked so hard to sew.
Now, repeat after me,  “OPEN your zipper BEFORE proceeding.”  You can thank me later . . .
Fold the bag in half right sides together.  Here’s the strange part . . .  Fold the facing section up. 
Very carefully pin around the sides and bottom of bag, being sure to keep all your pins within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t pierce the PUL.

Sew the side and bottom seams of the bag, including the facing section, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. 
To finish the seams, use a wide zig zag to encase the raw edges.
Turn bag right sides out.  Fold the facing down inside the bag.
Now, put on your running shoes and take a lap around the block.  You’ve finished your Gym Dandy Bag.
1 Handy Gym Dandy Bag
Thanks for sticking with me through this tutorial.  Need supplies?  Be sure to visit my website at
Julie Geiger

Frolic’n Butterflies Quilt

Finished Size: 38 1/2″ x 46 1/2″

Hello and Happy Spring. I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska. I’ve been dreaming of a little butterfly quilt for awhile now. When I saw the Frolic line of fabrics – I knew the time had come to hit the drawing board.

I had a great team of gals from the shop that helped me get this project up and fly’n this time. Give a big shout out to Jolene, Connie and Terri for their help in cutting and piecing – and to Janet for super-quick machine quilting and a great backyard for photography.

Now flutter on over to our shop at to see what else we’ve been up to and to snag some Frolic fabrics for your own collection.  Check out our blog at for a little give-away for some Frolic love too.

1 Frolic Charm Pack for Butterfly Wings (Need 32 five inch squares)

3/8 yard Bella Solids Ivory for Background
5/8 yard Frolic Sky Solids for Alternate Blocks
1/4 yard Frolic Bark Solids for Butterfly Body
1/4 yard Frolic Grass Solids for Inner Border
5/8 yard Frolic Large Floral for Outer Border
1/2 yard Frolic Bark Solids for Binding
1 1/2 yards of your favorite print for Backing
The Angler Tool from Pam Bono is helpful, but not required.

*WOF in the instructions below stands for Width of Fabric, or approximately 42″.

*All seam allowances are 1/4″
Ivory for Background: Cut (10) strips 1″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (384) 1″ squares.
Blue for Alternate Blocks: Cut (4) strips 4 1/2″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (31) 4 1/2″ squares.
Brown for Body: Cut (5) strips 1″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (32) 1″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles
Green for Inner Border: Cut (4) strips 1 1/2″ x WOF.
Large print for Outer Border: Cut (4) strips 4 1/2″ x WOF.
Brown for Binding: Cut (5) strips 2 1/2″ x WOF.

Choose 32 of the five inch charm squares to use for butterfly wings. I choose the prints with the most color so that they would show up best against the ivory bella background. Save the remaining squares for other projects.

In the examples below, I’m just cutting through one charm square to best illustrate the steps – but feel free to cut through as many layers are you are comfortable. I usually cut through 4 layers at a time.

Cut each charm square into (2) rectangles 2 1/4″ x 5″ each. You will have a small scrap left over.

Cut each of the rectangles into (1) 2 1/4″ x 2 3/4″ rectangle and (1) 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ square.

The trickiest part of this quilt is being sure to pay careful attention to the orientation of the wing sections while you are sewing. The wings will be mirror images of each other. Position an ivory 1″ square on the corners of the 4 wing sections as shown in the photo below.

Tape the Angler tool by Pam Bono to your sewing machine following the instructions in the package. This tool is the handiest little invention for sewing corners squares ever! You simply tape the guide to your sewing machine, then you can align the point of the corner square with the line on the guide. Sew diagonally across the ivory square, using the center line on the guide for placement.

*If you don’t have The Angler, you can draw a diagonal line across the back of the ivory squares. Stitch on the drawn lines.

Continue stitching the corner squares. To save time, I like to chain all my pieces together. The chain makes it easy to pick up all the pieces and head to my cutting and ironing board too.

Repeat the process on the remaining two corners of the butterfly wings, being very careful that you are sewing the ivory corners squares to the correct side of the wing.

Double-check to be sure the ivory squares are sewn to the correct corners, then trim each seam allowance to 1/4″.

Press the seam allowances towards the butterfly wing fabric, EXCEPT for the seams on the middle side of the small wings. By pressing these seams toward the background fabric, the seams for the two wing sections will neatly “nest” together when joining those sections. Just one of those little details that is worth the effort for a smooth finished project.

Sew the two sections together for each side of the wings.

Sew the wing sections to either side of the body section. Be careful to try to match up the position of the horizontal seam between the wings.

Press seams towards the body. Now is a good time to give your butterflies a little mist of Mary Ellen’s Best Press or magic sizing. This will help your butterflies lay nice and flat when you join your blocks together.

Repeat to make 32 butterflies. The block should measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ at this point. Square up blocks as necessary.

Arrange butterfly blocks and the blue alternate blocks in 9 rows of 7 blocks each.

Sew the blocks into rows. Press seams towards the alternate blocks.

Join the rows together. The quilt center should now measure 28 1/2″ x 36 1/2″.

Be sure to measure your quilt before cutting borders to size. Due to individual differences in sewing, your quilt may measure slightly different – cut borders to fit your measurements.

Cut two inner border pieces to 36 1/2″ long. Sew to sides of quilt. Press towards borders.

Cut two inner border pieces to 30 1/2″ long. Sew to top and bottom of quilt. Press towards borders.

Cut two outer border lenghts to 38 1/2″. Sew to sides of quilt. Press towards outer border.

Cut two outer border lengths to 38 1/2″. Sew to top and bottom of quilt. Press towards outer border.

Quilt as desired. Our machine quilter outlined the body and wings, then made a flower chain on the alternate blocks.

To bind, join the 5 brown strips end to end diagonally. Fold strip in half lengthwise. Press. Aling raw edges of strip with raw edge of quilt. Sew to quilt, mitering corners. Bring folded edge to back of quilt. Tack in place.

1 Small Quilt: 38 1/2″ x 46 1/2″

Perfect for a baby or toddler quilt, or a nice size to decorate a wall.

Thanks for sewing with us. Enjoy this sweet little Frolic’N quilt. Check out our website or blog for kits and other fun projects.
Julie Geiger
Prairie Point Junction

Verna’s Cutting Garden Tablerunner

I do think that Verna is my new best friend! After so much cold and snow here in Nebraska, everyone you talk to is ready for a much needed dose of spring.
(Note the snow on the lawn in my picture.)
As soon as I saw the Verna collection, I instantly thought of fresh flowers, just waiting to be cut for a bouquet. No matter the season in your neck of the woods, you can bring a dose of spring inside.
Enjoy – Julie Geiger
Find kits for this project and plenty of inpsiration at:

Makes 1 Runner, 18″ x 36″
1 Verna Charm Pack
(Or if you collect jelly rolls – 1 jelly roll will make 4 runners – just add border and binding accordingly)
1/2 yard Clover Bella Solid for Inner Border and Binding
5/8 yard Verna Print for Backing

1. Choose 40 charm squares (5″ x 5″). A charm pack usually has 42 squares. You can go ahead and cut all 42, that will give you a few extra choices for color selection.

2. Cut each charm square in half to create two pieces each 2 1/2″ x 5″. I find that I can stack about 4-6 charms to cut at once. Cut as many layers at once as you feel you can accurately handle.

3. From each charm square, cut ONE of the 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles into two squares, each 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. This will give you a total of eighty 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.

4. Cut the remaining 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangle into one 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangle and one 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ rectangle. This will yield forty rectangles of each size. The 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles will be used for this project. Set aside the 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles to use for another project.

5. Your charm pack stack should now look like this:

6. Choose three of the 2 1/2″ squares to sew together side by side. Mix up the colors and patterns for each set. Make 10 sets of three squares. This unit should now measure 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″.

7. Choose two of the 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles to sew together end to end. Mix up the colors and patterns for each set. Make 20 sets of two rectangles. This unit should now measure 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″.

8. Select two units made from the 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles and one unit made from the 2 1/2″ squares. Arrange units as shown below.

9. Join the units together to form a block.

10. The block should now measure 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″. Make a total of 10 blocks.

11. Arrange the blocks in 2 rows of five blocks each. Rotate every other block a quarter turn to alternate the position of the blocks and add interest to your design.

12. Sew blocks into rows, then join the rows together. Unit should measure 12 1/2″ x 30 1/2″.

13. Cut three clover green strips 1 1/2″ x approximately 42″ for inner border.

Measure the length of the runner. Cut two border strips to this length. (Measurement should be 30 1/2″).
Sew border strips to sides of the runner.
Measure the width of the runner. Cut two border strips to this length. (Measurement should be 14 1/2″).
Sew border strips to the ends of the runner.

14. Choose 16 of the 2 1/2″ squares to form the side border. Sew squares side by side. Unit should measure 2 1/2″ x 32 1/2″. Make two units. Sew to sides of the runner.

Choose 9 of the 2 1/2″ squares to form the end border. Sew squares side by side. Unit should measure 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2″. Make two units. Sew to ends of the runner.

15. Runner should now measure 18 1/2″ x 30 1/2″.

Layer runner top with batting and backing.
Quilt as desired. I quilted 1/4″ inside the center square of the block and 1/4″ around the inside edge of each block. I also quilted two straight lines 1/4″ away from the inner green border, and 5/8″ from the outside edge of the runner (to accomodate for the binding).

16. Cut three clover green strips 2 1/2″ x approximatley 42″ for binding. Join strips together diagonally end to end. Fold strip lengthwise with wrong side together, press. Sew raw edges to edge of runner, mitering corners. Bring folded edge around to back of runner. Hand tack in place on back of runner.

17. Enjoy the first signs of spring!

1 runner approximately 18″ x 36″.

Like what you see? You can order a kit for this project on our website at See other projects and inspiration on my blog at

Thanks for sewing with me . . .

Aster Manor Chenille Cuddler


Hello! I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska. I’m so excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop Project with you. The very first fabric sales rep that I ever visited with when I opened my shop 11 years ago was Pat Tweedy, from Moda fabrics. Moda has had a special place in my heart ever since. I know you’ll love working with their fabrics just as much as I have.

The Chenille Cuddler is as simple as it is pretty. I just couldn’t resist the gorgeous chenille in this line.
It sure elevates simple squares from blah – to – ta dah!
Want it even easier? Visit my shops’ website for kits for this project.

Recipe makes 1 quilt 60″ x 75 1/2″

1 Aster Manor Layer Cake (40, 10″ squares)
*OR you can also use 8 fat quarters PLUS one Aster Manor Charm pack
*See notes in ( ) for cutting instructions if using fat quarters and charms.
1 Yard Aster Manor Crimson Chenille
1 Yard Aster Manor Stone Chenille
7/8 yard stripe for binding
4 yards of 42″ wide backing OR 2 yards of 108″ wide backing
Batting: At least 72″ x 90″
2 skeins of DMC#355 embroidery floss to coordinate with fabrics

Step 1: Select nine of the 10″ squares to make the four-patch blocks.

Step 2: Cut each of the nine squares into four 4 1/4″ x 4 1/4″ squares, for a total of thirty-six 4 1/4″ squares.
(OR – If using charm packs – select thirty-six charm squares to trim to 4 1/4″ x 4 1/4″ squares.)

Step 3: Arrange the 4 1/4″ squares of fabric for the four-patches as desired. Mix and match the fabrics for a scrappy look.

Step 4: Sew two of the 4 1/4″ squares right sides together to form a two-patch unit. Press seams in opposite directions. Repeat to make 9 sets of two units each.

Step 5: Join units together to form a four-patch. Repeat to make nine four-patch blocks. Blocks should measure 8″ x 8″ at this step.

Step 6: Trim the thirty-one remaining 10″ squares down to 8″ x 8″. The most efficient way to do this is to trim a 2″ strip from the side of the 10″ square, then trim a 2″ strip from the top of the 10″ square. This gives you a great set of uniform scraps to use for future projects. (Think “make-your-own-honey-buns”).

(OR if using eight fat quarters, cut each fat quarter into four 8″ x 8″ squares)

Step 7: Get out your fabulous chenille and admire it. (No really – it is that beautiful – you truly must admire it before you cut it into squares).

Step 8: Cut each color of chenille into four 8″ x approximately 41″ strips.

Step 9: Cut each strip of chenille into five 8″ x 8″ squares, for a total of:

Twenty 8″ x 8″ squares of crimson chenille
and Twenty 8″ x 8″ squares of stone chenille

Step 10: Arrange the 8″ chenille squares, the 8″ print squares, and the four-patch units as shown in the two photos below. You will have 8 blocks across and 10 blocks down. My trick for simplifying the planning is to lay out the crimson and stone chenille squares in a grid as shown below. Next place the 9 four-patch units in the designated rows. Now all you need to do is fill in with the 8″ print squares, arranging them as desired.

A little note for those of you that like to follow the recipe just as it is in the book: Keep in mind that the second diagram of the quilt below was drawn on computer before I had the actual fabrics in my hand – so the fabric swatches are for design purposes only and don’t represent the actual placement of those fabrics in my quilt. Refer to the photo of the “real” quilt above if you like how it looks and don’t want to stress over fabric placement. Whew! I feel much better getting my disclaimer all out in the open!

Step 11: Sew the blocks into rows, then join the rows together. It is helpful to press all seams towards the print blocks as the seams will naturally want to fold away from the chenille fabrics.

Step 12: Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top.

Step 13: Use six-strands of embroidery floss to tie a knot through all layers at the corner of each block. It will be easiest to run your needle through the corners of the chenille fabrics as all seams should be pressed away from these blocks. Take a stitch through all layers of quilt, batting, and backing. Tie floss in a double knot.

Step 14: Cut either bias or straight grain binding, depending on the look you want. I cut 2 1/2″ wide strips from a chocolate brown stripe to total at least 300″ in length. Fold binding in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. Press. Sew raw edges to quilt, mitering corners. Bring folded edge to back of quilt. Hand tack in place.

Step 15: Cuddle up on the couch and enjoy browsing through the other Moda Bake Shop patterns to plan your next project.

One cuddly quilt: 60″ x 75 1/2″

Feel free to e-mail me at if you have any questions. Please put “Moda Bake Shop” in the subject. Hope you enjoy this simple pattern that showcases my favorite chenille fabric ever.