A Simple Old-Fashioned Christmas Tree Skirt

Hello!  I’m liZ from over at Simple Simon and Company and I’m super excited to be here at the Moda Bake Shop today sharing a Christmas Tree Skirt pattern. 

When it comes to Christmas I’m always looking to the past…I love anything traditional, vintage, and old fashioned.  So when I saw the Historical Blenders line by Howard Marcus I knew I would have to use it for a Christmas project and a Christmas Tree Skirt seemed to fit the bill. 

Here’s what I did:

One Fat Quarter Bundle (I used Historical Blenders by Howard Marcus)

The first thing that you will need to do make this Christmas Tree Skirt is to print out the pattern pieces. You can download them here:  An Old Fashioned Christmas Tree Skirt Pattern.

Once you have them cut out and ready to go it’s time to…..

 You will need to cut out 8 of each piece. 
(I used a different, dark fabric piece for each of the large bottom triangles and then I choose 8 different light (or golden) fabric pieces to use for the long skinny triangle pieces.)

Next you will sew piece #2 to piece #3.  (Numbers are marked on each pattern piece.)
You will do this with right sides together and make sure to sew from the top down to the bottom.  (Starting at the small point of the large triangle and sewing down the entire side.)


 I do this by laying my ruler flush with the edge of my large triangle and cutting off small excess that you will have at the top.


 Now it’s time to sew piece #1 to pieces #2 and #3 that you just stitched together.
To do this again start at the top (with your light or golden pieces) and sewing with right sides together sew down the entire side of the triangle.  (Like in the photograph below.)

After they are sewn together you will have a little piece at the top that needs to be trimmed so….

Now repeat that process with the other 7 sets of pattern pieces.
Once you are done you are ready to…

Do this with rights sides together. 
When you have all 8 pieces sewn together stop!  Do not close the circle!  (Meaning do not sew piece 1 to piece 8 and you go around the Christmas Tree Skirt.)  You will need an opening to wrap your skirt around the base of your tree.

All you have let to do now is to back and bind your skirt in which ever method you prefer.
(For mine I made my own binding from 2 of the red colored fat quarters and for the backing I pieced together 6 of the remaining fat quarters.  It was easy!)

And you’re done!

One simple, old fashioned Christmas Tree Skirt.

{Simple Simon and Company}

Ringlets Table Topper

Thank you for taking a moment to check out my second project for the Bake Shop! I needed to come up with a little something for on top of a table to coordinate with a lap quilt I made. I really enjoyed the process of this topper, and like how it looks more complicated than it actually is! I hope you enjoy making it as much as I have.

1 Collections for a Cause- Comfort charm pack
1/3 yard- Leaves/Orange Peel fabric (Collection for a Cause-Comfort #46113-13) tan
1/3 yard- Outer Border fabric (Collections for a Cause-Comfort #6113-14) dark aqua
1/4 yard- Binding (Collections for a Cause-Comfort #46114-25) brown

1 yard- Heat & Bond Lite
3/4 yard- Backing
26 x 26 piece of batting

**1 Leaves Galore Ruler by Sue Pelland Designs
** 28 mm Rotary Cutter

(**project does not necessarily have to have these 2 things however they are shown in my tutorial below. If you do not have the Leaves Galore ruler or access to purchasing one there will be a leaf in the printer friendly version for you to use.)

Dark tinted invisible thread
Sulky 12-wt. thread in brown (color # 713-1130)

Please use a 1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted

Step One: Select 23 of your favorite charm squares out of the pack. Make sure you have a nice assortment of each color in the pack.

Step Two: Carefully cut each charm square in quarters to yield (4) 2 1/2″ squares.

Step Three: Using the assortment of 2 1/2″ squares, create (9) nine-patch units.

If you are the type of person who is alright with “whatever goes” you may have fun putting all of your squares in a brown paper bag and randomly choosing the colors that go together. I personally like a more planned scrappy look and so I laid out all of my nine-patch units on a flannel wall before I started sewing them together. . .
Step Four: Sew your nine-patch units together, pressing your seams towards your darker colored fabric.

Step Five: Arrange your finished nine-patch units into a 3 x 3 layout and sew together. This creates your main quilt top.

Step Six: Adding the borders. It’s important that you get your most accurate borders by measuring through the center of your quilt top, and along both edges. If the number is the same for all three measurements, use that number as your length. If you get three different numbers, add them together and divide by three to get the average and use that average as your length. Please use the lengths I have given as a guide.

Cut (1) 3 1/2″ strip from the outer border fabric (dark aqua #6113-14)

Using the procedure above, find the appropriate lengths for the top and bottom of your quilt top. I cut mine 3 1/2″ x 18″. Sew top and bottom border strips to your quilt top, pressing the seams towards the border.

Next Cut (2) 3 1/2″ strips from the dark aqua fabric. Using the same procedure as above, find the appropriate lengths for the sides of your quilt. I cut mine 3 1/2″ x 24″. Sew to the quilt top and again press seams towards the border fabric.

Step Seven: Now that your quilt top is finished, layer it with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I chose to stitch in the ditch, using dark tinted invisible thread for the top thread. (This is optional–I prefer to use invisible thread for stitching in the ditch to help camouflage the spots where I may swerve out of the ditch.) Once you have your top quilted, set it aside and we’ll begin to cut your leaves. . .

Cutting the Leaves:

Step One: Taking the 1/3 yard cut of tan fabric open it up and cut it on the fold to get (2) 12″ x 22″ pieces of fabric and set them aside.

Next cut (3) pieces of Heat and Bond Lite 12″ x W.O.F. Place two of your strips aside with the tan fabric. Using the remaining strip cut (2) 5″ x 12″ squares.

Begin fusing by placing one of your 12″ x W.O.F strips of Heat and Bond Lite to the WRONG side of your tan fabric. Iron according to manufacturer’s directions.

Next, align the 5″ x 12″ strip of Heat and Bond Lite to the edge of the strip you just fused down. Once edges are butted together, iron in place.

You have now prepared your first strip. Repeat the above steps for the remaining 12″ x 22″ strip of tan fabric.

Step Two: Peel the Heat and Bond Lite paper off of both of your tan fabric strips and throw it away. Take your prepared strips to a nice sturdy cutting surface. Place one strip, wrong (shiny) side down. Place the second prepared strip on top of the first one, also making sure the wrong (shiny) side is down.

Step Three: Align the fabric edges and grab your Leaves Galore Ruler and 28mm Rotary Cutter.

Step Four: Place your ruler about 1/8″ – 1/4″ away from the edge of your fabric. (Make sure you use the edge of the ruler with the 6″ leaf size on it!!)

Step Five: Starting at the bottom of the ruler, carefully cut in your first serpentine.

You should now be able to move your ruler off of the fabric and gently pull the fabric the fabric away from where you just cut. . .

After pulling the fabric away–it should look a bit like this:

Slide your ruler down one leaf shape, matching up the dashed line of your ruler with the raw edge of the first serpentine shape you have cut.

Carefully slide the ruler over so that dashed line matches up with the raw edge.

Once matched up, carefully cut in your second serpentine shape.

After your first cut, you should have a total of four leaves ready to use on your quilt top.

Align your ruler up close to the edge, as shown below for your second cut and repeat step five.

Cut leaves until you get 24 of them.

If you are confused by the leaf cutting steps above, Sue Pelland has a wonderful step by step YouTube video on her website. Click here for a direct link to her website. The video is on the home page–simply click play and you are ready to go.

Now it’s time to fuse your leaves to your quilt top!

Starting in the bottom left hand corner of your quilt top, place your first leaf so the points line up on the bottom seam of your nine-patch and bottom border. I suggest holding off on fusing them down until you get all four leaves aligned to your liking.

Add your second leaf. . .

And then the third leaf. . .

And finally the last and fourth leaves. . . once lined up-fuse them in place.

Following the steps you just did above, place your leaves over your nine-patch seam lines. Upon completion your quilt top should now look like this. . .

Your quilt top is now finished. You may choose to quilt the fused leaves down however you wish. I chose to featherstitch around all of the leaves using the dark brown 12 wt. Sulky Thread. (Tip: If you decide to use the feather stitch and a 12-wt. thread of any kind you may need to change your needle to a size 120/19 or a 110/18. This should help eliminate any problems you may have with the machine wanting to skip stitches.)

Cut (3) 2 1/2″ binding strip from the brown (#46114-25) to finish your quilt. Bind and enjoy!

Makes one table topper measuring 24″ x 24″.

Thanks for sticking with me through this tutorial. If you have any questions with any of the steps or need some supplies make sure you let me know!

~Darci Schipnewski


Strippy Charm Pouch

Hi! My name is Kim and I blog over at Kim Sherrod Studio. I am so excited to share with you my first post here on the Moda Bake Shop. Lately I love to create projects that are small and very quick to pull together. This little pouch is a snap to put together and makes a perfect gift.

Collections For a Cause – Faith Charm Pack
2 Coordinating Fat Quarters
2 – 7″ x 91/4″ fusible fleece
2 – 7″ x 9 1/4″ interfacing
1 – 9″ zipper

1/4″ wide organdy or silk ribbon

Cutting Instructions

14 – 1 3/4″ x 5″ strips from Charm pack
2 – 2 1/2″ x 9 1/4″  rectangles from one fat quarter 1, bottom of pouch
1 – 2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangle from fat quarter 1, strap
2 – 7″ x 9 1/4″ lining pieces from fat quarter 2

Choose 7 charm squares.

Stack and cut at 1 3/4″. Do this twice. You will get 2 – 1 3/4″ x 5″ strips from each charm square for a total of 14 strips.
Layout your strips in 2 rows, 7 strips per row.
Sew your strips together.
Press the seams open. I like to do this to allow the piece to lay nice and flat. You now have two outer pieces.
Take the 2 1/2″ x 9 1/4″ rectangle pieces and sew onto the bottom of each outer piece.
Press seam toward bottom rectangle strip.
Iron on fusible fleece to outer pouch pieces and fusible interfacing to lining pieces.
Measure and mark a 1″ square at the bottom corners of outer pouch and lining pieces.
Cut out the squares and set aside for now.
Take the 2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangle for the strap and fold in half wrong sides together. Press to form a center crease.
Unfold the fabric and fold the long edges toward the center crease. Press.
Fold in half again and press.
Sew the opening side closed, and then topstitch the opposite side to create a nice finished look.
This is the finished strap.
Take the zipper, one outer piece and one lining piece. Lay them in the following order from bottom to top:
A) Lining piece right side up.
B) Zipper right side up (you’ll see the zipper pull).
C) Outer piece right side down.
At this point, I pin all three layers in place and sew them together using a zipper foot.
This is what the 3 pieces look like once you’ve sewn them together. Press the fabric away from the zippers.
Repeat the same layering steps for the remaining exterior and lining pieces.
At this point, the lining pieces are still underneath the outer pieces. Make sure all sides match up. Topstitch a scant 1/4″ along the top edge of the pieces.
Take the strap piece you set aside earlier, fold in half and pin to the outer piece only. I pinned mine roughly 5/8″ from the top edge of the fabric. Baste in place.
Open up the zipper, wide enough for you to be able to put your hand through.
Match up the outer pouch and lining pieces to each other, right sides together.
Pin in place with the zipper towards the lining. Notice I have two pins that are different colors than the yellow pins. These pins are in the bottom of the lining to remind me not to sew past them. Sew along all four sides, leaving the opening and the four cut out corners unsewn. Trim off excess zipper ends.
Open the bottom corner and match up the bottom and side seams.
Sew the opening closed. Repeat for the remaining cut out corners.
Reach your hand in through the opening of the lining and pull bag right side out. Machine or hand sew the opening closed. Press to remove wrinkles.

One zip pouch which finishes at approximately 5 1/2″ x 8 3/4″.  If you would like to add the ribbon to the zipper pull, cut the ends on the diagonal and pull it through the hole in the zipper pull. Trim ends and heat set to prevent fraying.
Enjoy your new strippy pouch! 
Kim Sherrod

Chain of Faith

I’m so happy to be showing you my latest Moda Bake Shop Project, Chain of Faith. If you are looking for a quilt pattern that looks complicated but is actually not, Chain of Faith might be just the quilt for you! If you haven’t seen or touched the fabric yet, you are going to want to. This fabric feels like it’s already been loved. It’s so soft and cuddly. If you want to see more behind the scenes information about the quilt make sure to stop over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction.

2 Collections for a Cause-Faith Jelly Rolls

3.5 Yards of Red Collections for a Cause-Faith 4609016 for cornerstones, border and binding

6 yards of Collections for a Cause-Faith 4609123 backing fabric

There isn’t room for error when cutting the jelly rolls. You may want to purchase an extra 1/4 yard of fabric…just in case.

From the red cut: 41 – 2.5″ strips
Set 8 aside for borders
Set 8 aside for binding

Sub cut 32 – 11″ pieces
Sub cut 219 – 2.5″ pieces

From Jelly Rolls (I set the solid red, brown and cream pieces aside)
From 11 strips sub cut 32 11″ pieces
From 29 strips sub cut 144 8.5″ pieces
From 22 strips sub cut 128 6.5″ pieces
From 15 strips sub cut 128 4.5″ pieces

You will need to use leftover pieces from previous strips to complete the number of strips needed.

There is VERY little leftover fabric when making this project, so cut carefully.

Take the 11″ red strips and sew to the 11″ strips along the length of the pieces. Press to the red.
Sub cut into 4 2.5″ pieces.

Mix and match the pieces sewing them together to make scrappy four patch blocks.

Sew a 4.5″ piece to each 4 patch as shown.

Sew a 2.5″ red square to a 4.5″ piece.

Sew the piece onto the main block.

Sew a 6.5″ piece to the main block.

Sew a 2.5″ red square to a 6.5″ piece.

Sew the piece to the main block.

Repeat the process making a total of 64 blocks.

The next step is to take four of your smaller blocks, four 8.5″ sashing strips, and a red cornerstone and sew them into a block as shown. Be careful to sew them together so that the small red squares form an “X”. Also be careful to sew them together so that the vertical stripes of the block are across from each other.

Repeat making a total of 16 of these larger blocks. Set them aside.

Sew a red cornerstone between two sashing pieces as shown. Make 20 all together.

Now take four of your blocks and five sashing pieces. Sew the sashing pieces to them as shown.

It is really easy to turn the blocks in the wrong direction. Look at the photo closely and see how the blocks are still forming an “X” and the vertical strips in the block are still vertical. Make a total of four rows.

Now make sashing to strips to go between the rows. You will need to eight 8.5″ pieces and 9 red cornerstones for each row, starting and ending with a cornerstone.

Connect them as shown. Make a total of five sashing strips.

Now sew the rows and the sashing strip together to form your quilt top. A sashing row will be at the top and at the bottom as well as between the block rows.

Take your border strips and sew them together. Attach to your quilt and your quilt top is finished.

Piece your backing together and quilt as desired.

One 86″ x 86″ quilt
This fabric line is SO soft….now it’s perfect for a cup of cocoa and a snuggle.

Typically when I show a Moda Bake Shop project, my beagle Gracie is part of the photo shoot. She wasn’t feeling the best when we took the photos…Stop on over the blog and see how she’s doing at our blog Jo’s Country Junction.

Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}

Charity Crosses

Charity Crosses is made with the beautiful new
Collection for a Cause by Howard Marcus
At Temecula Quilt Co we are all about reproductions and
 like to add a “piece” of the past to a quilt for today.

One Layer Cake – Collection for a Cause – Charity

1 Yard Bella Solid – Ivory
Half Yard – Binding
 2- 1/2 yards – Backing

1. Cut each “piece” of Layer Cake as follows:
– 4 – 4″ squares
– 4 – 2″x4″ rectangles
– 1 – 2″x2″ squares
From solid background fabric cut:
– 28 – 2″x 9″ strips
– 8  – 2″x WOF strips

2. Mix and Match cut pieces to create 35 different blocks.

3. Sew each section together and press seams as follows:
– Press center section towards middle
– Press two other sections outward

4. Sew three sections together
5. Press and repeat for all 35 blocks.
6. Another look at the finished blocks

7. Layout quilt top with 7 rows of 5 blocks.

8. Place a 2″ x 9″ strip of Bella Solid between each block.

9. Sew rows together horizontally, press toward light background strips.
10. Piece 2″x WOF strips of background fabric to create a piece as wide as your quilt.

11. Piece rows together being sure to line up vertical sashing strips.

12. Quilt as desired and bind.

One beautiful throw for a chilly spring evening.
Completed Quilt 46″ x 65″

Just One Pack Doll Quilt

Just One Pack Doll Quilt 16in. X 16in.

• 5 inch Charm pack Moda Alliance
• 1 fat quarter Alliance for backing
• scrap batting or flannel X
• 1 pack of 2 inch English Paper Piece Hexagons
• Sewline Glue pen
• tiger tape
• coordinating thread
• basic sewing supplies

• Chose 25 charms from your Alliance pack

• I used the 2 inch pre-made English paper pieces from PaperPieces.com. They are available at your local quilt shop, online or you can cut your own.

• Next I cut 20 charm fabrics about 1/4 inch around the hexagon paper.
• I use Sewline’s glue pen to adhere my fabric while they wait to be pieced together. This is a HUGE time saver.

• This may be difficult to see but I put the glue on the fabric. It is a wash away adhesive.

• Firmly press your fabric to the papers as you go around the hexagons.

• Now the arrangement I did for this quilt also uses half hexagons. Instead of buying another pack of papers for this I cut a regular 2 inch hex in half as shown.
• I was very careful to make sure it was as close to half as possible. You will need 5 half hexagons.

• Again, cut your fabrics 1/4 from the paper edge and glue in place firmly.

• The corners will be trimmed once the quilting is done.

• I layed out my pieces into a pleasing arrangement and then took 2 at a time to sew.

• With Right sides together I whip stitch the edges. I continue to add hexs until you have a top as shown.
• Note the papers are removed before layering. The fabric can be peeled from the paper easily without much distortion. The unsewn edges are basted with a larger stitch to be removed after hand quilting.

• Layer the batting and backing…..

• I hand quilted my doll quilt using 1/4 inch tiger tape as my guide. I am not an expert hand quilter and I tend to do a big stitch. For a doll quilt…this was the effect I wanted.

• Once the hand quilting is complete, I do not bind my quilt in the traditional way.

• Notice that I am folding back the quilt edge to the hand quilting line…

• Trim away the batting to less than an 1/8 of an inch, to reduce bulk.

• Here’s how the edges should look.

•Trim the backing to about 1/4 inch from the quilt top edge as shown.

• Fold the edge in the create a finished edge. Then fold the quilt top up to meet the backing and pin.

• hand whip stitch with a neutral thread and tiny stitches all the way around the quilt edge to finish.

A 16in. X 16in. One Pack Doll Quilt…

I hope you enjoy this tutorial as much as I enjoyed making it. Be sure to visit my blog where I am hosting a challenge giveaway. Make your own One Pack Doll Quilt and post a picture to my Flickr group! I look forward to all the different fabric choices you make! You’ll be amazed how quickly a little doll quilt like this can be completed.

1800’s Vintage Quilt

by Sheryl Johnson of Temecula Quilt Co

This quilt is a reproduction of a 1800’s doll quilt. It has been very popular at our shop and is not as difficult as it might look.

1 Charm Square Pack – Alliance – Collection for a Cause by Howard Marcus
1/2 yard Moda Bella Solid – Ivory
2/3 yard coordinating fabric for backing
1/4 yard binding

Instant Vintage – Our special formula for giving a new project a vintage feel.

From Charm Squares cut:
each charm square into 4* 1-1/4″ strips.
Divide strips into 2 piles.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
From background fabric cut:
8* 1-1/4″ x wof strips of background fabric.
3* 2-3/4″ x wof strips – subcut into 16 2-3/4″ squares
8* 2-3/4″ x 7-1/4″ rectangles
Using 6 of your 1 1/4″ x wof background strips attach charm square
strips to one side using a chain piecing technique.
Here are the strips with half of the charm square strips attached.

Cut each segment apart – Press toward dark

Add another dark strip to create 24 dark – light – dark strips.
Press toward Dark
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Subcut into 70 1-1/4″ pieces.

Add another light strip to create 11 light – dark – light strips
Press toward dark.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Subcut into 49 1-1/4″ pieces
Add another light strip to create 4 light – light – dark strips
You will only need 4 pieces but if you sew 4 strips you
will not end up with the same fabric in your corners
– – – – – – – – – – – – –
Subcut into 4 1-1/4″ pieces
Create 9-patch units as follows –
29* – 9-patches with dark corners
8* 9-patches with light corners
4* 9-patches with 3 dark corners and 1 light corner

Using 2-3/4″ squares of background fabric
piece 4 units like this.

Piece 1 block that looks like this

Using 2-3/4″ x 7-1/4″ rectangles of background fabric
piece 4 units like this.
– – – – – – – – – – – –
Piece 9 blocks together to complete top
Quilt as desired, bind
Tea dye your quilt to give it a vintage feel.

One darling doll quilt with a vintage feel.
Finished Size 20″ x 20″

Vintage Brick Doll Quilts

1 Charm Pack – I used Legacy – Collection for a Cause
You will need at least 12 light and 12 dark charm squares
2 Fat Quarters – One light and one dark for background
2 Fat Quarters – Backing and binding

If you are making two quilts separate charm squares into two piles – light and dark

Cutting: Cut each charm square two – 2″ x 4″ rectangles.
For a total of 23 light and 23 dark 2″ x 4″ bricks
From each of your light and dark fat quarters cut the following:
6 – 2″ x 19″ strip
18 – 2″ squares

Piecing instructions will be for one quilt – repeat if you are making both.

Step One – Attach a 2″ background square to 18 of your 2″ x 4″ bricks.
Piece rows together as follows:
3 rows with 5 bricks
2 rows with 4 bricks

Step Two – Assemble quilt top alternating and offsetting 5 brick row and 4 brick row with
2″ x 19″ strips background fabric separating each row.
Step 3 – Quilt as desired using your remaining two fat quarters.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Bind using left over backing fabric or another favorite
from the collection.

Two Vintage Brick doll quilts –
Not sure what to do with them? Here are a few ideas. Find more at Temecula Quilt Co.


Charming Coasters

1 Charm Pack (8 – 5″ x 5″ squares) – featured here is Collections for a Cause – Legacy by Howard Marcus

Batting – 4 – 5″ x 5″ squares (great to use up your scrap batting left over from another project)
Coordinating Thread

Fabric Paint
Alphabet Stamps

Step One:
Gather all your ingredients.
Step Two:

Pick out two coordinating charm squares for each coaster.

Step Three:
From your scrap batting, cut one 5″ x 5″ square for each coaster.

Step Four:
Put two fabric squares right sides together and then align on top of a piece of batting.

Step Five:
Sew a 1/4″ seam around the coaster, leaving about 2-3″ opening so you can turn the coaster right side out.

Step Six:
Clip the corners of the coaster before turning right side out so there is no bunching in the corners.

Step Seven:

Turn the coaster right side out and press. Stitch a 1/8″ seam around all four edges of the coaster. This will close off the opening… no need to whip stitch closed.
Quilt the coaster as desired.

Step Eight:
This next step is optional. Determine what letters you want to place on each of the coasters. If you want to spell out a word that is shorter or longer than shown, then simply make the number of coasters needed to spell your word.

Place a little bit of the fabric paint on a paper plate and stamp into paint until covered. Gently stamp the letter onto the coaster and remove. Set aside to let dry.

Coasters make great personalized gifts and pair up perfectly with the Travel Mug.

Angela Yosten