120-Minute Gift: Cinnamon Spice Tree Skirt/Table Topper

Hi there, it’s Cathy Victor from “Me and My Mum Quilting”, and I’m pleased to be bringing you my second Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  The great thing about this pattern is its versatility, you could swap out any 9″(9-patch) blocks for those that I’ve chosen.  Also you can make two tree skirts or table toppers from each layer cake.

So grab your favorite holiday layer cake and let’s get started…I am using the Blackbird Designs collection “Cinnamon Spice.”

As always I love to hear from you with your comments, questions and pictures.  You can find me at {Me and My Mum Quilting}

1 Cinnamon Spice Layer Cake (2700LC)
3/4 yd red fabric (2700-12)
1-1/2 yd Bella Solid (9900-60) {This includes enough for the table topper backing.}
Backing: 1 yd (2705-12)
Binding: 1/2 yd (2706-12)This is enough for both.

Decorative Buttons

For the tree skirt you need the following:

4 layer cake squares (a)
1 LC square (b)

2 LC squares (c)
2 LC squares (d)
1 LC square (g) middle square

4 LC squares (e)
4 LC squares (f)
Approx. 1/4 yd of yardage

approx 1/2 yd of yardage

Cutting Instructions

Lay out the 4 (a) green squares and cut as follows:

Cut two {2} 2″ x 10″ strips from the bottom of the square

From the remaining piece, cut two {2} 2 5/8″ strips.

Subcut the previous 2 5/8″ strips into four {4} 2 5/8″ squares. Set aside the cut pieces until later; the leftover piece is not needed.

Next…from the Green square (b), cut two {2} 2 5/8″ strips…..

Subcut into four {4} 2 5/8″ squares. The rest of the fabric is not needed.

The Beige (c) blocks are for your hourglass blocks. From each of your two Beige (c) squares…cut from two {2} 4 1/4″ squares. The rest you do not need.

From your two Beige (d) squares…..Cut from each Beige (d) square three {3} 2 5/8″ strips.

Subcut into a total of 18: 2 5/8″ squares (9 of each fabric. You only need 16 so 2 are scrap. You do not need the rest of the fabric.

Go ahead and grab your 4 Red (e) squares…From the Red (e) squares, cut two {2}: 2 3/8″ strips.

Subcut into 8: 2 3/8″ squares (for each print). You will have a total of 32 squares. (8 in 4 different patterns.) You will not need the rest of the fabric.

The Red (f) squares are for the flying geese blocks and bricks. From your 4 Red (f) squares…cut a 2″x10″ strip from the bottom.

Then, from the remaining piece of each square, cut three {3} 2″ x 8″ strips.
There is a approx 4″ x 8″ piece leftover that you will not need.

Cut the bottom (2″ x 10″) strip and one of the 2″ x 8″ strip into four {4} 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles (bricks). Do this for all 4 prints for a total of 16 bricks. Set aside the remaining 2″ x 8″ strips until later. The rest you will not use.

Now grab the Red yardage. Cut two {2} 3 1/2″ strips. Subcut into four {4} 3 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ rectangles and four {4} 3 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles. (I cut out an extra 4 for the table topper, but if you aren’t making it don’t bother.)

From the White yardage, cut two {2} 2″ strips, one {1} 3 1/2″ strip, one {1} 3 3/4″ strip, and three {3} 2 3/8″ strips.

Subcut the 2″ strips into 9″ lengths.

Subcut the 3 1/2″ strip into sixteen {16} 2″ x 3 1/2″ bricks.

Subcut the 3 3/4″ strip into four {4} 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ rectangles.

Subcut the 2 3/8″ strips(3) into forty {40} 2 3/8″ squares.

Grab your remaining layer cake square (g) and cut it to: 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″.

Assembling the Blocks 

So the first blocks to assemble are the flying geese blocks. Grab the 2″ x 3 1/2″ white bricks and the red bricks and strips that you cut from (f) LC squares. Also set aside the white 2″ strips and the green 2″ strips from (a). They will be coming up shortly.

The following pictures show how the blocks progress from beginning to completion….
You should now cut your red 2″ x 8″ strips into 2″ squares. You need 8 squares for each block and there are 4 blocks to make this tree skirt. That makes for 32 red squares all together.

Draw a diagonal line from corner to opposite corner. This is your sew line.

Place the red square on top of the white brick, and sew along the diagonal line, cut off the corner, leaving a 1/4″ seam. Press toward the red fabric. Place a matching red square on the opposite corner so that the line creates a point with the other red corner and sew. Cut off the corner, leaving a 1/4″ seam and press toward the red. You now have a flying geese block that measures 2″ x 3 1/2″.

Continue until you have completed 4 flying geese blocks of each pattern. Match these up with the bricks of the same color and pattern.

Sew the flying geese to the bricks so the seam crosses over the point of the flying geese block.
Press away from the flying geese block.

Next up green/white 4-patch blocks…..Grab the white and green 2″ strips and sew them together into twosie strips. Press toward the greens.

Cut the twosie strip into 2″ sections. Spin 1 section so that opposite colors are aligned. Matching seams, sew into 4-patch blocks. Press in either direction.

You will have a total of sixteen {16} 4-patch blocks (4 of each pattern).

Next up the hourglass blocks….Grab the 4 Gold (c) squares. They measure 4 1/4″ square and we are going to cut along both diagonal lines (from corner to opposite corner; in both directions)

Lay out the 2 patterns in the configuration shown in the picture.We will be sewing down the short side of these triangles first…..

Sew them all the same way, with the same fabric on top of the opposite color on the bottom. They all go through the same direction, do this until you have 8 pairs of triangles.

Press toward the darker of the 2 triangles.

This photo shows how the block progresses from a twosie triangle…Matched up with another… Matching seams and sewing to form an hourglass block. Press either direction …Trim off the dog ears, the block should measure 3 1/2″square.

You now have all the components needed to complete the first block…Match each pattern of red to a pattern of green and create an hourglass block as shown in the photo.

Lay out the above squares into the design shown in the photo. This will make 4 star blocks.
Sew them row by row and then press. I pressed away from my flying geese blocks.

This photo shows how they are pressed.

Go ahead and sew the rows into the final block, nesting seams and pinning if necessary. Press away from the middle row.You have now completed 4 blocks.

Grab the red 2 3/8″ squares and cut diagonally once from corner to opposite corner.
This will give you 64 triangles. (16 of each pattern.)

Do the same for the white 2 3/8″ squares…There are 80 triangles when you are finished.

Match up the red triangles with the beige 2 5/8 ” squares that were cut earlier. You can see in the photo that my green 2 5/8″ squares will be matched up with the white triangles.

Lay out the beige squares and red triangles, like the photo shows.

Make sure that when you line up the triangles you have equal amount of “dogears” on both sides. Go ahead and sew down the first side. Sew the opposite side the same way. Press the triangles toward the beige square. Trim off the dog ears and continue sewing the triangles to the remaining sides.

Press either way and trim off the dog ears. The photo shows how the block progresses.
Continue until you have completed all the red/ beige blocks.They should measure 3 1/2″ square.

Repeat the process with the green squares and white triangles. This photo shows how they progress.

You now have 4 piles of red/beige blocks and 4 piles of white/green blocks. Set them aside for now, we will return to them later.

Now take the red 3 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ rectangles, and carefully fold them in half lengthwise and press to make a visible crease. Next, cut a diagonal line from the bottom right corner to the crease line like in the photo.Then do the other side from the bottom left corner to the crease line (point).

With the white 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ rectangles, make 2 piles of 2. Cut diagonally once from bottom right to top left for the 1st pile.And cut the opposite direction (from bottom left to top right) for the other pile, like the photo shows.

Layout the pieces as shown in the photo.

Line up the white triangle with the red triangle point showing a little past the white, as shown in the photo.Your sewing machine needle should come down exactly where the 2 fabrics line up.

This photo shows how the blocks progress. Press towards the red fabric. Place the opposite white triangle in the same manner and press toward the red fabric.Trim off the dog ears.

The block should now measure: 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″

Do this with all 4 red triangles. Set aside for now.

Next up grab the 4 red rectangles that measure: 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ and cut 2 diagonally from: top right to bottom left and,Cut 2 diagonally from: top left to bottom right.Set aside for now.

Remember these blocks? We will be assembling them into rows for the next step…Lay them out like in the photo, I put identical squares into the same block.(except for the central green/white square. it is from the extra pile of squares.) It is going to be the middle square in all 4 blocks.

Go ahead and sew them into rows.Make sure to match the points where they meet. You can pin them if you like.

This photo shows how I pressed the rows:I always pressed away from the white squares.Continue sewing all the squares into rows. BUT DO NOT sew them into larger blocks.

They are sewn together differently than normal to achieve the shape of the final tree skirt.

Next grab 1 of each pattern, the row shown in the photo….

And the red triangles we cut earlier.Lay them out like the photo shows with the flat side of the red triangles aligned with the bottom of the row of blocks.Sew them together and press toward the red triangles.

Next, grab the remaining rows of blocks….Lay them out exactly as the photo shows, making sure the fabric patterns match.Sew the rows together, making sure the bottom block is “pointing” to the other 2 rows.And that any points are aligned. Pin if they need a bit of help.Press toward the middle row.

You have now completed the other 4 blocks and are ready to assemble the tree skirt.

Grab the 4 blocks finished here and the 4 star blocks finished earlier and the Layer cake square that was trimmed down to 9 1/2″ and find a space to lay them out.

Lay the assorted blocks out, like the photo shows, moving the blocks around until you like the way they look.Sew them into rows, pinning where seams and points line up.Press away from the star blocks and central square. (doing this ensures the seams will nest nicely).

Next sew the rows into the nearly finished tree skirt, and get the remaining rows ready to add as borders.

Attach the border pieces to the sides, lining up the square in a square blocks and pin in place.
Sew the borders in place and press.

Now get ready to trace the hole for the tree stand.  I used a bowl for my template, you can use whatever makes the hole the size you like. Trace around the hole and straight through the middle of the tree skirt.(this bi-sects the square in a square blocks).

Quilt as desired…may I also recommend stitching around the circle you traced and down both sides of where the opening will be. This will ensure the tree skirt doesn’t shift while you are binding it.
Carefully cut the traced line for the opening and around the circle.

Your tree skirt should now look like this….

Get your buttons and ribbon out…..Place your buttons on the tree skirt, to decide where you want them. With a pencil, make marks on both sides of the opening for button and loop placement.

Cut your ribbon to 3″ lengths….

 Sew them in place along the opening with a scant 1/4″ seam that will be hidden in the binding.
I also pinned them down so they wouldn’t get caught up in the binding.

Prepare your bias binding strips and proceed to sew it around the tree skirt.

You may need to stop sewing and re-position the binding when rounding corners.
This is how it looks with the binding on.

Now I just sewed it down to the backside.( just make sure that you don’t sew the loops into the binding when you do this).

With the binding done, sew the buttons in the position you marked on the opposite side from the loops. You’ve completed the tree skirt!!!

Next up a table topper from the rest of the layer cake and fabric. It is the same pattern, just don’t cut out a circle and opening. I will list the substitutions for the fabrics, but follow the cutting and assembly instructions listed at the beginning of the tutorial by the letters in ().

Table topper substitutions…..
Pinks: 4 layer cake squares (a) (by cutting 5 – 2 5/8″ squares from each pink you eliminate step (b).) Leftover Red: 2 LC squares (c) hourglass blocks.
Approx 1/4 yd of yardage (4 – 3 3/4″x5 5/8″ and 4 – 3 1/2″x 10 5/8″ cut as per earlier instructions.)
Green: 2 LC squares (d)
Beige: 4 LC squares (e) 4 LC squares (f)

* For the whites, follow the cutting instructions below, but the assembly instructions above*
2 Identical LC squares(4- 3 3/4″x 5 5/8″ rectangles)
4 LC squares (4– 2 3/8″ squares from each cut once diagonally to yield 32 triangles. Some of this can be leftover from previous.)
6″ yardage ( this section is for the 4-patch blocks and the flying geese units in the star block)
1 LC square for middle block (g) cut to 9.5″ square

Assemble the blocks as per the instructions for the tree skirt. But don’t cut the hole in the middle square or the slit for an opening. Quilt and bind as desired….

A Cinnamon Spice Tree skirt that measures approx. 33″ square. Perfect for any traditional Christmas setting.

A Cinnamon Spice Table Topper to compliment your Holiday decor. It also measures approx 33″ .

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that you will make one for yourself and maybe some loved ones too. Have a happy and healthy holiday season.

Season’s Greetings!

Cathy Victor
{Me and My Mum Quilting}

The Dark Side…or Not Layer Cake Quilt

I love half square triangles!  They are neither half squares, nor triangles (what’s up with that?) yet make an instant and dramatic impact on any quilting project.  Additionally, they are simple to make.  If you have a fabric line with roughly the same number of light fabrics as dark, it is a match made in Heaven.  HSTs were my first thought when I saw  Cinnamon Spice.

Can you say, “Wow!”  Big blocks and simple construction give each of these prints a place to shine.
This quilt is made from 68 HSTs, and 12 9.5″ squares.  It is gorgeous and simple.

Gather up your supplies and fall in love with my favorite block!

2 Layer Cakes*
1/3 yd dark fabric*
1/3 yd light fabric*
1/2 yd for binding
5 1/4 yds for backing

*You can substitute 1 Cinnamon & Spice fat quarter bundle plus 2 dark 1/3 yard cuts, and 2 light 1/3 yard cuts for the Layer Cakes and 1/4 yard cuts.  If you like a scrappy binding, this choice yields enough scraps to do it.

NOTE:  Fat quarter bundles often vary in the number of pieces.  You need a total of 80, 10″ squares to complete the project.  You can get 2 from each fat quarter.  A 1/3 yard cut of fabric will yield 4 10″ squares.   This quilt could be made with 40 fat quarters, or 20 cuts of 1/3 yard.

When using layer cakes you will have enough pieces – Moda is pretty good at keeping the quantity consistent.  Each cake has 42 pieces.  The extra yardage, 1/3 yd of light and 1/3 yd of dark,  listed above is to supplement the number of light and dark blocks if needed.

Fat Quarter method:  Follow these instructions if you are using a fat quarter bundle.  If not jump to the section labeled “Layer Cake Method”

  1. Iron each fat quarter
  2. Cut, according to diagram above,
    1. 2, 10″ squares from each fat quarter
    2. 3, 2.5″ x 22″ strips if you are interested in a scrappy binding.
  3. Cut 4, 10″ squares from each 1/3 yard cut of fabric
  4. You should now have a total of
    1.  45, 10″ squares (There are a couple extra…perhaps for a label?) and
    2. 105, 2.5″ x 22″ strips (but only if you chose to cut these)
  5. Now you have two layer cakes! 
  6. Proceed with layer cake method.

Layer Cake method:

  1. Open up your layer cakes and separate the light squares from the dark ones.  (Take some time to enjoy each of the prints – they are beautiful!)
  2. Remove 4 dark squares and 8 light squares from the piles.  Trim these to 9 1/2″ square and set them aside.
  3. Draw a single line diagonally, from corner to corner, across the wrong side of 34 light squares.
  4. Pair each of the 34 light squares with a dark square.
  5. Sew a smidgen less than 1/4″ from each side of the drawn lines.  I use a 1/4″ foot on my sewing machine.  When I line up the foot and the diagonal line, the line is just to the inside of the flange.  Sewing 1/4″ from the line will work as well.  (Truthfully, I don’t know why I don’t.  Maybe I don’t completely trust that the resulting squares will be big enough.  Must be Vader calling to me.) 
  6. Cut on line.
  7. Open each block and iron seams toward the dark side.  (While doing this you can chant, “Come to the Dark Side Luke,” but be careful no one is listening.  They might take away your sharp toys.)
  8. Trim blocks to 9 1/2″ square.  You should now have 68 HSTs.

Now it gets a little more tricky.  Keep your wits about you and don’t listen to Vader.  The pieces have to be arranged just right to make the pattern show up.

To make this easier I’ve split the task into four sections.  Each section is made from 20 blocks arranged in a grid of  4 x 5.   If you can get 20 blocks set right 4 times in a row then you’ve got this quilt conquered.  (Much like Vader and Luke.) 

You need to make two sections which rise from the left…

The stripes in this section rise from the left.

and two sections that fall to the right.

The stripes in this section fall to the right.

This is a good place to break out your design wall/floor/bed/curtain.  Find a surface that you can display the blocks on.  (The pictures above were taken of my blocks on a design curtain!  My dear husband made it from heavy flannel, a length of  PVC pipe and some chain link.  It hangs at the end of a hall in front of and unsightly boy zone.)  I found it helpful to lay out one left and one right section at the same time.  Distribute the prints , solids, and colors as desired.  Keep in mind that this is going to be a scrappy, random looking quilt.

Sew 5 rows of 4  – one at a time so that you can keep track of what you are doing.

Sew rows together along the long edge to make a quadrant.

Sew quadrants together so that the dark stripes turn 90 degrees at their meeting.  I sewed the 5 block sides together first (I don’t like to sew really long seams.)  Then sew the resulting 8 block sides together to finish your top.

Layer and quilt as desired.

One 72 X 90 Quilt – perfectly sized for a twin bed and ample for snuggling up on the couch while watching a movie.  If you go the layer cake route it is a quick make as well.

Pop some corn and put  Star Wars in the DVD player while you stitch down the binding and “May the force be with you!”

(Don’t forget to take a picture of your finished quilt and post it in the new Tops to Treasures Flickr group.)

Cindy Sharp

Eydie A’s Jelly Quilt

Mom and I are so excited to bring you our 2nd recipe for Moda Bake Shop! This quilt “Eydie A’s” is designed and named in Grandpa’s (mom’s dad) memory. This lovely quilt uses a jelly roll and both a dark and a light print to set off the scrappy blocks. It is made using Blueberry Crumb Cake by Blackbird Designs…the perfect line for Moda Bake Shop.

Please stop over at our blog and say hi!

april and mickey
1 jelly roll Blueberry Crumb Cake by Blackbird Designs
2 5/8 yards tan sprig on cream for background triangles
3 2/3 yards cream flower on blue for sashing, border, and binding
94 x 108 inches batting
7 1/2 yards backing

Using the Jelly Roll strips piece together in sets of 2 for a total of 20 sets. Do not press yet.

Then piece the sets of 2 together for 10 sets of 4. Now press each strip set so that the seams are going to same way (all to the left or all to the right).

Layout and cross cut them into 2 1/2 x 8 1/2 inch combination strips for a total of 168 combination strips.

Piece combination strips together into groups of 2. Be sure that seams are pressed opposite of each other when pairing them up.

Piece groups of 2 together for a total of 42–16-patch blocks. Set these aside.

Cut 14–6 3/4 inch strips from the background.

Cut these strips into 84–6 3/4 inch squares. Cut each square in half diagonally once.

Piece the triangles to the blocks.

Piece the triangles opposite and press.

Then piece the remaining triangles. Press.

From the blue… cut 24–3 inch strips for sashing. Using 12 strips, cut 35–3 x 11 3/4 inch sashing strips.
Piece the remaining strips into 6–3 x 86 inch strips

Cut 9–4 inch strips for the borders from the blue and cut 1 strip in half. Piece together 2–4 x 86 inch strips for top and bottom borders. Piece together 2–4 x 106 inch strips for side borders

Cut 9–2 1/4 inch strips for binding from the blue and piece strips end to end.

Layout the quilt as follows: 6 x 7 layout with 86 inch strips running from side to side and the 11 3/4 inch strips running up and down between blocks. Piece together rows of blocks then piece rows to blue sashing strip. Piece borders to top and bottom first then sides.

Layer quilt with backing and batting; quilt as desired. I quilted Eydie A’s with a freestyle overlapping meander with white thread.

Trim quilt and stitch binding down.
Then roll the binding over and top stitch binding down (or hand stitch binding down on back).
Eydie A’s quilt measuring 88 x 108 inches…

We do have a few kits of Eydie A’s using the Blueberry Crumb Cake… check out our online shop… www.sweetgirlstudio.etsy.com

and here is the listing for the kit…

happy quilting!
april and mickey

Woven Jelly Roll Rug

Hello! This is Jera {quiltingintherain.com} bringing you this fun weekend rug project that requires just 1 jelly roll. Make a free rug for yourself by checking out my blog for a jelly roll giveaway! I used the collection ‘Wild Rose’ by Blackbird Designs. It makes a beautiful rug to display in your sewing room or to put by the fireplace. Seven simple steps below! Oh, and there’s a surprise bonus picture at the bottom of the tutorial ;-p

  • 1 Jelly Roll
  • *Non-slip liner for drawers, enough to cover 20”x30”
  • Scrap backing fabric, measuring 20”x30”

*Originally I tried using non-slip rug padding but it was too thick to sew through. The non-slip drawer lining is much thinner and works better.

Step 1 – From your jelly roll, choose 28 strips and do the following:

  • Take 12 jelly roll strips (44″ long). Cut each in half so you have a total of 24 strips that are 22″ long each. Trim each so they measure 20” long. You will have a total of (24) 20” long strips.
  • Take 16 jelly roll strips. Trim each so they measure 30” long. You will have a total of (16) 30” long strips. Press all of the above strips in half lengthwise, and then stitch a ¼” seam as shown below.
  • Step 2 – Cut the backing fabric.

    From your scrap fabric, cut a 20”x30” rectangle. I used a semi-thick fabric.

    Step 3 – Place the 30” long strips along the length of the backing fabric and pin at the ends. Sew a ¼” seam to keep in place. Continue until you’ve attached all 16 strips.

    Step 4 – Take your 20” long strips and weave along the width, over and under the 30” long strips you attached in the previous step. Pin as you weave them to keep them in place.

    For each strip, sew a zig-zag stitch to secure the weave. I pinned and sewed 3 strips at a time.

    Step 5 – After you’ve finished weaving in all of the 20” strips and sewing zig-zag stitches along the width of the rug, go back and sew zig-zag stitch along the length as well. Trim off excess strips that hang over the 20”x30” backing.

    Step 6 – From your non-slip liner, cut a 20”x30” rectangle and pin to the back of your rug to keep in place.

    Step 7 – Lastly, bind the rug using leftover jelly roll strips as described in Oda May’s Binding with a Jelly Roll tutorial.

    One fabulous 20″x30″ rug!

    Bonus picture!

    My dog Paige has grown very fond of the woven jelly roll rug. 🙂

    Don’t forget to check out my blog for a chance to win a jelly roll!

    Thanks for stopping by!

    Jera Brandvig,

    Wild Rose Postage Stamp Quilt

    Wild Rose Postage Stamp Quilt.
    By Julie Sebire of “Narioka” Australia.
    Hello again, I hope you enjoy making my second project for the Bake Shop as much as I did.
    You can also visit me at my blog narioka@blogspot.com.

    One Wild Rose Jelly Roll.

    Half yard for inner border and pieced back. (cream)

    One and a half yards for outer border, binding and pieced back. (blue)
    One and half yards backing fabric. (green ticking)

    Unroll Jelly Roll. Cut all strips in half where they fold.
    You will now have eighty strips.
    You will use 72 of these strips for the quilt front, I used the remaining eight strips to make the pieced quilt back.

    Before starting to piece this quilt, I did a little colour planning. I laid out the 72 strips in rough colour groups. I wanted to group the colours instead of having them all randomly placed. If you prefer a random look to your quilt just start piecing with your first 24 strips.
    Using the Wild Rose range I’ve ended up with mustards and greens on one side (24 strips), lighter coloured prints in the centre (24 strips) and blues and reds on the other side (24 strips).
    Arrange one mustard, one green , one blue and one red strip into the centre to help the colours blend across the quilt. Rearrange until you are happy with the spread of colour. (As above).

    Take the first 24 strips.
    Join together four strips at a time stitching down the long side. Repeat stitching next four strips together until all strips are used. Press .

    Rotary cut sections across the strips, 2.5 inches wide, as shown to create your postage stamps.

    Take all your four square sections and lay them out (above) to make up 12 blocks of 4 by 4 squares. Try not to have similar prints next to each other.

    Stich the 4 x4 blocks together to form two large pieces: 4 squares high, 24 squares long.
    This completes one third of the postage stamp piecing.
    Repeat with the remaining two thirds of the fabrics.

    You should now have six 4 x 24 square sections. (Two in reds and blues, two in the lights, and two in the mustards and greens). Join together using the picture above as a guide.
    I have put two borders on this quilt. I used a cream one inch inner border (cut 1.5 inch wide strips) and a blue three inch outer border (cut 3.5 inch wide strips). I’ve also bound the quilt in the same blue fabric from the Wild Rose range.

    My quilt back I just made up as I went along from what fabric pieces I had left over and the length of 44″ green ticking from the Wild Rose fabric range.
    I cut the ticking length ways slightly off centre and then made an insert 15 inches wide to make the backing the same width as the quilt.
    The insert consists of
    * A strip, 2 squares wide by 26 squares long made from the eight strips originally held aside at the start.
    * Border both sides with a one inch strip of cream (cut 1.5 inches wide).
    * Border each side again with 3.5 inch strips of blue (cut 4 inches wide).
    * Border each side again with 2 inches of the cream (cut 2.5 inches wide).
    * Stitch ticking to both sides of insert.
    I find pieced backings are a great way to use scraps and be creative. They almost give you the effect of two quilts in one!
    Quilt as desired.
    One 56″ square quilt, perfect for wrapping around you out on the porch!
    Happy making!
    Julie Sebire

    Garden Charm Table Runner

    by Marlene Biles/ Sipiweske Quilts

    My first Bake Shop recipe!!! I am so thrilled to have the opportunity to share one of my ideas with you for using those adorable little 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ Bake Shop Sampler charm squares. If you are like me, you’ve had that gorgeous box safely tucked away on a shelf so that you could admire it from afar . . . but this thing just need to be used!

    So go grab up your sampler box and choose a little charmer pack or any assortment of 2 1/2″ squares that you have laying around and let’s get started . . .

    *Yardage is based on 42 inch wide fabric

    • 40, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch Garden Party Bake Shop Sampler squares
    • 5/8 yard Bella Solid in Natural for background fabric
    • 1/2 yard of backing fabric
    • 1/4 yard of binding fabric
    • small amounts of lightweight fusible web
    • thread to match applique
    • 16 x 39 inch quilt batting
    • 6 medium/large buttons
    • 6 mini buttons

    Block Cutting and Assembly

    From the background fabric cut the following:

    Cut 1, 2 1/2 x 42 inch strip

    • Sub-cut into 9, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch squares – set three of these aside for block centers
    • Using the 6 remaining 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch squares, cut once diagonally across the blocks to create 12 corner triangles.

    Cut 1, 4 1/8 x 42 inch strip

    • Sub-cut into: 6, 4 1/8 x 4 1/8 inch squares
    • Cut twice on the diagonal to create 24 side triangles

    Now it’s time to break open that little charm pack and choose 4, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch squares for the appliqued flowers – set aside.

    Using the remaining 36 squares and all of your cut background pieces – lay out 3 blocks as shown above.

    Using a 1/4 seam, stitch the rows together and then add the corner triangles. Square up the blocks to measure 9 x 9 inches.

    Quilt Cutting and Assembly

    From the background fabric:

    • Cut 1, 14 x 42 inch strip
    • Sub-cut into 1, 14 x 14 inch square and cut twice on the diagonal to create 4 side triangles

    From the remaining 14 x 28 inch strip, cut a 7 1/4 inch strip and then sub-cut it into 2, 7 1/4 x 7 1/4 inch squares and cut once on the diagonal to create the four corner triangles.

    Lay out the quilt as shown above.

    Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch the diagonal rows together and then add the corner triangles.

    Straighten the sides of your table runner as shown above ensuring that you retain your 1/4 inch seam allowance.

    Applique Instructions

    Cut 4 pieces of fusible web 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches.

    Position the fusible web squares (paper side up) over the Template and trace. (Please note: once you open the document do not click on the “print” button – the pattern will be HUGE. Click on the “download” button and make sure that “pdf” is selected – click download and then open. The view may be set at 247% . . . just change that to 100% or even click print and it should be fine. The little pattern template should measure 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches – the exact same size as your mini charms.)

    Position the fusible squares onto the backs of the four squares you previously set aside and fuse in place.

    Cut out each shape on the drawn lines.

    Measure 3 inches out from the point where two blocks intersect and fuse a circle print.

    Thread your machine with a thread in a shade slightly darker than the fabric you are stitching. Match your bobbin thread with your background fabric.

    Set your machine to a small blanket stitch and stitch around the circles.

    Position the petals on top of the stitched circles ensuring that the petals are close enough together in the center so that they will be covered by the large button you have chosen. Fuse in place and blanket stitch around each petal.

    Button – time!

    I used buttons in the center of the top and bottom blocks and left the center block without a button. This is where I will place a plant pot or bowl and I want to ensure that whatever is put there will sit flat.

    Knot your thread and come up from the back of the quilt top through one of the holes on the large button.

    Drop one of the mini buttons onto the needle and go down through the other hole and through the large button hole as well. Repeat and tie off.


    Layer your quilt top, batting and backing using your favorite basting method. If you want to round your corners, use an old CD and pencil to mark a curve.

    Machine quilt with a meandering pattern or a design of your choice. Be sure to avoid the buttons as you come to them. Trim the corners on the drawn lines to create a gentle curve.


    Cut 3, 2 1/4 x 42 inch strips and stitch together end to end to create a continuous binding strip. Press seams.

    Fold strip in half lengthwise and press.

    With raw edges aligned, stitch to the right side of the quilt using a 1/4 inch seam, mitering corners as you come to them (for square corners) or easing the binding around the curves. Clip curved edges and hand stitch binding to the backing fabric making sure to cover all machine stitching.

    One super cute 13 x 37 1/2 inch table runner.

    I’m using mine on my patio table for the summer and love how it brightens up the deck. This project would look awesome in just about any fabric line . . . just imagine a Halloween or Christmas print with little pumpkins or presents in place of the flower appliques – the sky really is the limit!

    If you have any questions or comments I’d love to hear from you.
    Happy sewing!

    Marlene Biles

    Market Day Tote Bag

    Market Day Tote by Cyndi Walker of Stitch Studios

    Do your weekend shopping in style with this cute rick-rack trimmed tote bag! Just grab one charm pack, some rick-rack trim and a couple of beautiful Bella Solids and I bet you can make this tote in just one afternoon. Easy peasy!

    (1) Charm Pack – I used the lovely Beach House collection by Blackbird Designs
    (1) Yard –  Cream Solid (Bella Solid in “natural”)
    (1/2) Yard – Tan Solid (or Print) for Lining of Bag (Bella Solid in “tan”)

    (1) Yard – 1″ Cotton Rick Rack (Elan Rick Rack in “Peach” which is a golden tan color)

    Cutting the fabrics and rick-rack:
    From the cream solid, cut: 32 – 5” squares
    From the lining fabric, cut: 2 – 12 1/2” x 15 1/2” rectangles
    From the rick-rack, cut: 2 – 16 1/2” strips and 1 – 13 1/2” strip

    Make the Half-square-triangle Units
    Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of a 5” cream square. Layer the marked cream square and a 5” cream square, right sides together.

    Sew a line 1/4” from each side of the line.

    Cut along the marked line to make a total of two half-square-triangle units. Press each unit towards the dark.

    Trim the half-square triangle units to 3 1/2” square. Repeat to make a total of sixty-four half-square-triangle units – forty for the bag panels and twenty-four for the handles.

    Assemble the Pieced Bag Panels: Layout twenty half-square-triangle units into five rows of four units. Sew the units in each row together and then join the rows together to complete a pieced bag panel. Repeat this process to make a total of two pieced bag panels.

    Add the Rick Rack: Pin the three cut rick-rack strips to the left, right and bottom edges of one pieced bag panel, leaving half the width of the rick-rack showing along the edges. Baste the rick-rack in place.

    Assemble the Outside of the Tote Bag: Right sides together, sew the two bag panels together along three edges, leaving the top short edge open. Clip the corners being careful not to cut the seams and turn inside out.

    Make the Handles
    Sew together twelve of the remaining half-square-triangle units together, matching the cream edges together to make a candy-cane stripe. Fold this strip in half, right sides together, and sew along the edge.

    Turn the strip right-side-out and press the seam towards the back. Top stitch along each long edge to finish a handle. Repeat to make a total of two handles.

    Make the Button Loop: Choose an uncut charm square from the remainder of the charm pack squares and cut a  2” x 5” rectangle. Fold the rectangle in half and press. Fold the two outside edges to meet the pressed line and press again. Fold this unit in half, press and topstitch along the long edge to finish the button loop. (See the next step

    Add the button loop and handles
    On the open edge, find the center of one bag panel. On the right side of one pieced bag panel, pin and baste the two open ends of the button loop to the center. On the right side of the pieced bag panel, pin and baste the two ends of the handles to the first seam from the left and right of the bag panel. Repeat with the second handle to the opposite finished bag panel.

    Make the Bag Lining
    To make the lining of the tote bag, sew together the two 12 1/2” x 15 1/2” rectangles together along three edges, leaving one short edge open.

    Assemble the Bag
    Right sides together, insert the pieced bag panels – with button loop and handles – into the bag lining. Pin along the two open edges and sew the edges together, leaving a 2” opening for turning the bag.

    Turn the bag inside out, using the 2″ hole left in the seam along the top of the bag. Once you have done this, flip the lining to the inside of the bag and press. Top stitch along the top edge of the bag to finish

    1 – 12″ x 15″ Tote Bag