Beach Umbrella Quilt


Hello everyone! I’m Becky from Patchwork Posse. Today I am sharing the quilt pattern for a cute and beachy umbrella quilt. During the summer I find that a little bit of shade goes a long way! These umbrellas are all about giving you a place to hide away from the heat. The fun contrast in the Weeds fabric collection with red, blacks, and grays is perfect for showcasing the fun print on the umbrella. Even though there is curved piecing in this quilt, once you get the hang of it, you can quickly sew all the blocks together. The key is pinning. You will be using pins. A lot of them. If you notice one umbrella is facing the wrong way….I did this on purpose. You don’t have to do that if you don’t like. I find it fun to add something a little ‘off’ in quilts.

  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in red for the umbrellas
  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in gray for the block backgrounds
  • ½ yard fabric for spacer blocks (I used a light gray on dark gray polka dot); cut into (12) 7″ squares
  • 1½ yards of red ric rac for umbrella handles; cut into (13) 4″ pieces
  • Coordinating thread for top-stitching the ric rac
  • ¼ yard red fabric for 1st border; cut into (2) 2″ x 32″strips and (2) 2″ x 35″
  • 4 to 5 gray fat quarters for 2nd border; cut into (60) 2″ x  9″ strips
  • 1 fat quarter for cornerstones; cut into (4) 4″ squares
  • {Beach Umbrella Quilt template at the end of the Printer Friendly file}

(1) Cut out the umbrella pieces using the {templates}. Make sure you pay attention to the grain line arrow on the template. This will help keep the curves on the bias which will be a lot easier to sew. I used red for the umbrella parts and the dark gray and black for the background. Notice that section D is the bottom of the block and where you will be sewing the ric rac handle. NOTE: when cutting your fabric make sure you ADD 1/4″ to each. If you don’t, your blocks will be too small.

(2) Pin the center of piece A to the center of piece B- the will be curved in different directions.

 

(3) Pin the ends of the pieces together.


 

(4) Sew across this edge, stopping every few stitches and easing the edges together. When you get to the center, leave your needle down and adjust the rest of the piece.

(5) Using this method, continue sewing pieces C and then piece D to make your block. This is what the back of the block will look like:

 
Front of the block:
 

(6) Press the block.

(7) Repeat steps (1) through (6) to make a total of 13 umbrella blocks

(8) Pin the ric rac in place and sew down the center of it using matching thread. Tuck the ends under to make it look more finished.

(9) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 3 rows:

(10) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 2 rows:

(11) Sew your rows together to make the quilt center.

(12) Attach the first (red) border to the top and bottom (shorter strips). Attach the longer strips to the sides.

(13) Create the gray pieced border:

  • Sew (6) 2″ x 9″ strips together. Square up to 9″. 

  •  Cut from corner to corner twice to make 4 triangles. 

  • Sew the triangles together. Notice that the strips will be going different directions. You can choose if you want them to miter or go the same direction. The point will go past the other piece by a little bit. That is what you want to happen. In the example, I chose to keep them all going the same direction. The strips will NOT line up. Don’t go crazy trying to make that happen. 

  • Sew additional triangles together until you have 4 borders with 9 triangles in each. 

  • The ends will have a point and aren’t quite long enough. You will need to unpick one end of the row. 
  • Sew the extra triangles to the ends of the rows to get them to the correct length and to make them square on the ends. The 4 border pieces should be 35″ long each. 

(14 )Pin the border to the quilt center and sew to the top and bottom of the quilt.

(15) Sew the 4 squares to the ends of the other 2 pieced border rows and sew these rows to the sides of the quilt.

(16) Layer, baste, quilt, and bind.

Above is a close-up of the quilting I chose. Feel free to do whatever quilting pattern you would like.


Finished Quilt Block: 7″ x 7″
Finished Quilt: 42″ x 42″

For more quilt tutorials and easy sewing projects, stop by {patchworkposse.com} or follow me on {Facebook}. You can also find me on {Pinterest}. Hope you enjoy this quilt!

Becky Jorgensen
{www.patchworkposse.com}

Tiles Quilt


Hello,  my name is Cindy Sharp.  I am the person behind Tops to Treasures.  I am thrilled to be back with Moda’s Bake Shop today…presenting my original pattern, “Tiles.”

The name isn’t very flashy, but I could think of no better word to describe the effect of this pattern.  It takes me back to a time when things were made for both beauty and function, when floors were more than something to walk on, and back splashes did more than protect the kitchen wall.  
Using the Printemps line of fabric by 3 Sisters elevates my tiles to a whole other level.  These carefully pieced blocks no longer belong on a floor or wall, but in a garden filled with life and light and fresh air.  It is wholly appropriate that this line was given the name Printemps.  French for springtime, the name delivers all that it promises.
The drawings in my pattern feature a different line of fabric, also by 3 Sisters.  Vin du Jour provided the heady bouquet of color that inspired my pattern.  
In either fabric line the quilt is fantastic.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Tiles is made from 30 blocks that finish at 12″ square.  There are 15 blocks that turn one way and 15 blocks that turn the other.  You can see it in the quilt if you look for mirror images.  To get a better understanding look at the drawings below.  Pay close attention to the rotation of the edge pieces.  In the picture on the left  the golden arm is reaching toward the right….the edge patch arms all reach in the same rightward direction.  (Is rightward a word?  Did I just make that up?!)  In the other picture they all reach toward the left.
Right Reaching Block
Left Reaching Block
Each of the 30 blocks is made from 9 patches.  I like the center patch the best!  It is just a 4 1/2″ square!
Corner Patch
The corner patches are straight forward as well.  They are pieced, but the directions are the same for every corner patch in the quilt.
Left Reaching Edge Patch
The edge blocks are the tricky part.  Due to the restrictions of standard markings on my ruler (not just mine, yours are marked the same way) I chose to foundation piece this portion of the block.   Please don’t be turned off by this decision.  I’ve written a tutorial to help you with this type of construction.  The process is as straight forward as that used in the corner patches…it is just different.  Time to grow my quilty friends.  You can do this!  If you have any trouble understanding the process please feel free to contact me.  I’d love to walk you through it.
I designed Tiles to take advantage of dark and light colors in a fabric line.   There are several in the Moda line up that would work.  My drawings are all done using Vin du Jour by 3 Sisters.  It is a striking quilt when done in just a few colors.

My sample quilt is made using Printemps also by 3 Sisters.  This line is softer.  Where Vin du Jour is dramatic and bold, Printemps is romantic and subtle.  Using a softer pallet will create more of a blended quilt.

What ever you decide keep in mind that you need approximately the same amount of yardage for either option.

For a scrappy quilt, like mine, use the fat quarter equivalents listed in parenthesis.   There should be enough fabric in a fat quarter bundle to obtain the variety that you need, however, some fabric lines lean more heavily towards lights or darks.  If this is the case with the one you have chosen remember to supplement your bundle purchase with enough yardage to complete the light/dark requirements.

Yardage Required
(#FQs)
     SKU
What I used
Dark
1 1/4 yds (5)
44031-15
44037-15
44036-15
44030-15
44030-25
5 reds from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Light
1 1/4 yds (5)
44033-12
44032-22
44031-12
44030-22
44030-12
5 yellows from Printemps by 3Sisters
Lattice A
1 yd (4)
 44032-23
    44031-13
    44036-13
    44030-13
    44035-23
5 pinks from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Lattice B
1 yd (4)
    44037-14
    44031-14
    44032-24
    44030-24
    44030-14
5 aquas from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Background
2 3/4 yds
 44036-41 tiny pink floral on cream
Inner Border
½ yd
 44303-24 tone on tone aqua 
Outer Border
1 1/4 yds
 44033-12 medium floral on yellow
Binding
3/4 yd
 44037-15 white diamonds on red
Backing
5 yds
 44030-12 large floral on yellow
  • 12 Sandwich sized zip lock baggies:  To  make your P.I.G. (project in a sack) easier to corral I highly recommend placing your pieces in zip lock baggies as you cut them.  You will need 12 baggies to do this.  Place all 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ dark squares in one bag, all 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ dark squares in another bag, etc.  If you use the kind that has a freezer label built into it you can write yourself a note as to the size and purpose of the piece.  (I didn’t bag up my borders or binding.)
  • 60 paper copies of each page on the following file:  Edge Patch Pattern You should have 60 of each of 2 pages for a total of 120 pages.
    • Before you print 60 copies
      • Please make sure that the solid lines forming the right angles measure 4″
      • Mark the pattern pieces of the original copy so that you know which piece goes to which type of block.  (This will be important if your piles get knocked over.)
      • Consider making a few extra copies….just in case.
     
    Cutting Directions:
    • Darks
      • 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares for center of blocks
        • If from yardage –
          • Cut 4, 4 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
          • Sub-cut 3 strips into 9, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 27 squares
          • Sub-cut 3, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 30.
        • If from fat quarters
          • Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips
            • 2, 4 1/2″ x 18″strips from each of 3 fat quarters,
            • + 1, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from the 2 remaining for a total of 8 strips
          • Sub-cut strips into 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 32.  (you will have two extra.)
      • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • If from yardage –
          • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
          • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each for a total of 112 squares
          • Sub-cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 120
        • If from fat quarters –
          • Cut 18, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips
            • 4, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from each of 3 fat quarters
            • + 3, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from the 2 remaining for a total of 18 strips
          • Sub-cut 17 strips into 7, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 119 squares
          • Sub-cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square from the last strip to complete 120
    • Lights
      • 60, 5″ x 5″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • If from yardage –
          • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
          • Sub-cut 7 strips into 8, 5″ x 5″ squares each for a total of 56 squares
          • Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 60
        • If from fat quarters –
          • Cut 15, 5″ x 22″ strips
            • 3, 5″ x 22″ strips from each of 5 fat quarters
          • Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from each strip for a total of 60

    • Lattice A
      • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
        • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles
      • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
        • Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
        • Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60
    • Lattice B
      • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
        • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles
      • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
        • Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
        • Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60
    • Background
      • 60, 4″ x 4″ squares for corner patches of blocks
        • Cut 6, 4″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 10, 4″ x 4″ squares from each strip for a total of 60 squares. 
      • 120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
        • Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
        • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
      • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
        • Cut 8, 2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
        • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
      • 120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1 
        • Cut 6, 3 1/2″ x wof strips
        • Sub-cut 5 strips into 21, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 105 rectangles
        • Cut 15, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120
    • Inner Border
      • Cut 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Outer Border
      • Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Binding
      • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
    • Paper patterns – cut triangles apart just outside the dotted lines.
      Break Time!
          The Whole Valley In a Glass of Wine
      If you just made it through all of that cutting, you really do deserve a break.  Just writing the instructions wore me out.  Put down the rotary cutter for the evening, put your feet up, and enjoy a relaxing beverage….a massage probably wouldn’t hurt either.
      Sewing Directions:
      Corner Patch
      • Corner Patches – Does anyone else think this block looks like an Angry Bird?!  You need to make 120, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.
        • Gather baggies containing –
          • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabrics
          • 60, 5″ x 5″ squares light fabrics
          • 60, 4″ x 4″ squares  background fabric
        • When working with triangles, I like to leave things square as long as I can.  Making these patches two at a time accomplished that perfectly.
        • Gather
          • 2, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabric
          • 1, 5″ x 5″ square light fabric
          • 1, 4″ x 4″ square background fabric
        • Sub-cut the 4″ square of background fabric diagonally twice – making 4 small triangles
        • With right sides together, align right angle of 1 small triangle with right angle of small square.
      Corner step 1
        • Sew pieces together.
        • Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
        • With right sides together, align right angle of second small triangle with opposite right angle of small square so that the “bunny ears” intersect.
      Corner step 2
        • Sew pieces together.
        • Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
        • You should now have a large triangle made of three pieces.
        • Sub-cut 5″ x 5″ square light fabric diagonally, once – making two large triangles.
        • With right sides together, center pieced triangle on top of large triangle, aligning the hypotenuses.  Note – the pieced triangle is a little bit smaller than the large one.  It is supposed to be this way.
      Corner step 3
        • Iron seam allowance towards the large triangle.  Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
        • Trim patch to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square.
        • Repeat with remaining pieces to make a second patch.
        • Repeat 59 more times to make required 120 corner patches.
      Left Reaching Edge Patch
      • Edge Patches – This patch looks like a  Y to me.  You need to make 60 Right facing and 60 left facing, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.
        • Gather
          • Lattice A fabric
            • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
            • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
          • Lattice B fabric
            • 60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
            • 60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2
          • Background fabric
            • 120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
            • 120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
            • 120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1 
          • Paper foundation patterns
            • 60, right reaching
            • 60, left reaching
        • Use instructions in Paper Piecing tutorial to complete 120 edge patches.  I highly recommend that you keep your left reaching and your right reaching patches in separate piles.
        • NOTE: 
          •  You can easily tell a right reaching from a left reaching by setting the block in front of you with the largest triangle closest to you.  Thus situated, look at the long arm of the Y.  It reaches up and to the ______.
          • Paper Piecing is done “upside down”  do not worry if your left blocks look like right blocks and your right blocks look like left blocks.  As long as the group called left all look like each other and different from the group called right you are doing okay.
      • Blocks
        • Use the pictures for each block
        • Make one block at a time.
        • Lay your patches out in front of you and make sure that…
          • The largest triangle in the edge patch always touches the center patch.
          • The Lattice fabrics appear to continue through the block.  It kind of looks like four sticks arranged end to edge to create a large square on point.  The opposite sides of this square are the same color.
          • If the lattice sticks look broken, or you can’t get them to line up correctly, you probably have a mixture of left and right reaching edge patches.
          • The small dark squares always touch the large dark square in their interior corners.
      Right Reaching Block
        •  15, Right Reaching
          • Gather
            • 15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
            • 60, corner patches
            • 60, right reaching edge patches
          • Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
          • Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″

      

      Left Reaching Block
        • 15, Left Reaching
          • Gather
            • 15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
            • 60, corner patches
            • 60, left reaching edge patches
          • Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
          • Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″

      • The Top
        • Center
          • Gather
            • 15 Right Reaching Blocks
            • 15 Left Reaching Blocks
          • On a design wall (Read shower  curtain, large bed, floor if you do not have a formal design wall.  Really, these things work just as well, if not a little more awkwardly.) arrange you blocks.
            • Rows 1, 3, and 5 are all Right, Left, Right, Left, Right
            • Rows 2, 4, and 6 are all Left, Right, Left, Right, Left
            • All blocks are arranged so that Lattice A and Lattice B fabrics are oriented the same way.  In my picture you can see, all of the yellow sticks are on top and bottom of the blocks and the grey sticks are left and right.  Yours should be this way too.
            • If you are having a hard time getting the lattice to line up correctly you probably have the wrong kind of block.  Make sure the block is reaching in a different direction than the one you are placing it next to.  It is easy to do this by laying the blocks on top of each other.  You can’t miss the differences this way.
          • Sew blocks into rows.
          • Iron seam allowances towards the right reaching blocks
          • Sew rows together to complete center. 
          • It should measure 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″.
        • Inner Border
          • Gather
            • 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″ center
            • 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips of inner border fabric
          • Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
          • Iron seam allowance open.
          • Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center 
          • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
          • Trim excess
          • Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
          • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
          • Trim excess
          • Your top should now measure 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″
        • Outer Border
          • Gather
            • 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″ center
            • Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips outer border fabric
          • Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
          • Iron seam allowance open.
          • Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center 
          • Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
          • Trim excess
          • Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
          • Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
          • Trim excess
          • Your top should now measure 72 1/2″ x 84 1/2″
      • Layer and quilt as desired.  I used a pattern called Chantilly Lace by Anne Bright with Praline thread by Signature.
      I’d love to see your finished quilt.  Please send me a picture, or add it yourself to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

      A 72″ x 84″ quilt to be proud of.  This one will knock your socks off when it is finished.

      Cindy Sharp
      {topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

      Don’t forget the Paper foundation patterns
       .

      Bedazzled Quilt




      As I am preparing this pattern for publication much of the United States of America is frozen. There are even rumors to the effect that Niagara Falls has frozen. That’s cold. The next couple of months is bound to be filled with stories of cold and more cold as we nestle in for winter. However, that doesn’t mean we have to be cold or gloomy in the wet and grey.

      Where I live, in North Texas, it doesn’t usually get very cold for very long. Our winters last a week here and a week there, buffeting us with cold winds and overly bright sunshine. Even so there are often long stretches of gray wet days. This quilt will keep me smiling well into spring.

      Me and My Sister’s latest line “Hubba Hubba” is the perfect remedy for a cold wet winter. Their cheerful pallet and designs are guaranteed to make me giggle and set me to dreaming about spring. Arranged in a happy rainbow and pieced into twinkling off set stars this quilt is perfect for an evening of silly movies and pop corn.


      Focus Fabrics

      • 25 fat quarters – 5 each of 5 colorways (Hubba Hubba by Me & My Sister) 

      Supporting Fabrics

      • 2¾ yards background & inner border fabric (Bella White | 9900-97) 
      • 1 yard dominant solid (one sashing stripe and binding) (Bella Amelia Blue | 9900-167) 
      • 3 – ¼ yard cuts for sashing stripes (Bella Solids Kiwi | 9900-189, Bermuda | 9900-269, and Yellow | 9900-024) 
      • 4½ yards backing (Tiny Daises in Blue | 22216-16)
      • Miscellaneous fat quarters from bundle for pieced outer border

      Supplies

      • 25 large sandwich-sized zip lock baggies – will make it easier to keep your gazillion pieces organized
      • Sand paper – I used a 3 2/3″ x 9″ sheet of fine grade paper that I stole from my husband’s stash in the garage. Place your pieces on top of it when drawing sewing lines, the fabric will not move.

       
      Bedazzled is made from a total of 25 10″ finished blocks (they actually measure 10½” x 10½” before you sew them into your quilt), set in a 5 x 5 grid with sashing on two sides. The sashing is offset from row to row to create a twinkling effect. For added twinkle I’ve sorted the focus fabric line by colors and highlighted them with random negative blocks. What can be better than candy colored rainbows of stars?!

      NOTE: WOF = width of fabric

      CUTTING
      From background fabric, cut:

      • 9 strips measuring 3″ x WOF; subcut into 116 – 3″ x 3″ squares
      • 2 strips measuring 10½” x WOF
        • From 1 strip cut 14 – 3″ x 10½” rectangles
        • From the 2nd strip, cut an additional 11 –  3″ x 10½” rectangles
        • From the remnant of the 2nd strip, cut 4 – 5½” x 5½” squares
      • 6 strips measuring 5½” x WOF
        • From 5 strips, cut into 14 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles (total of 70 rectangles)
        • From the 6th strip, cut an additional 6 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles (for a total of 76 rectangles)
        • From the remnant of the 6th strip, cut 1 – 5½” x 5½” square
      • Set aside remaining background fabric for the inner border. You will need 8 WOF strips but you will need to have the blocks pieced and assembled so you can calculate the dimensions. I will walk you through this step below. 

       From 25 fat quarters (FQs):

      • Select one FQ from each of the 5 colorways to be a negative block. These fabrics will become backgrounds instead of stars. From each of these negative FQs, cut:
        • 4 – 3″ x 3″ squares
        • 4 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles
      • From each of the remaining 20 FQs, cut:
        • 1 – 5½” x 5½” square 
        • 8 – 3″ x 3″ squares 
      • Select a 26th FQ that is more more like your initial background fabric, but not solid. From this FQ, cut:
        • 4 – 3″ x 3″ squares 
        • 4 – 3″ x 5½”” rectangles 
        • 1 – 3″ x 10½” rectangle (for 1/4 sashing on one block) 

      From remaining (and randomly chosen) FQs, cut:

      • 60 – 5½” x 5½” squares for the pieced outer border

        From each of the sashing solids, cut:

        • 2 strips measuring 3″ x WOF (a total of 8 strips)

        From binding fabric, cut:

        • 8 strips measuring 2½” x WOF

          Break time. Really, if you have just cut all of those pieces out it is time to take a break. Pour yourself a glass of something cool and sparkling, take a walk in the fresh air, clear your mind. That is where I am headed right now….and I haven’t even cut out the fabric yet, I just wrote about it.

          PIECING

          • Block kits
            • The directions are written as if you were making one block at a time.  When I want my projects to be more unified (less scrappy) I make them this way.  It is easier to keep all of the same colors together.  If you want a more scrappy project make all of the flying goose units at the same time, randomly selecting squares and rectangles.
            • It might be helpful to sort your stacks of fabric into block kits containing the following pieces
              • 1, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ square for star center
              • 4, 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles background for edges
              • 4, 3″ x 3″ squares background for corners
              • 8, 3″ x 3″ squares for  star points
              • 1, 3″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles for 1/4 sashing
            •  Not all of the backgrounds are the same color.  Your sets should break down as follows
              • 5 kits
                • stars pieces cut from regular background fabric
                • backgrounds are cut from fqs
                • 1/4 sashing cut from regular background fabric
              • 19 kits
                • stars cut from fqs
                • background pieces are cut from the regular background
                • 1/4 sashing cut from regular background fabric
              • 1 kit
                • star pieces are cut from a fq
                • background pieces are cut from a fq
                • 1/4 sashing cut from fq
          • Block construction
            • The blocks in this quilt finish at 10″ square.  (10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ actual before sewn into the top)
            • Each block is made from 4 flying goose units, 4 small square patches, and 1 large square patch.
            • Before you call the block done you will also add sashing to 1/4 of it.
            • For each of the 25 kits you need to complete the following steps  (Yes, I have recycled the pictures from another bakeshop project that I did.  The blocks are constructed the same way as the blocks in Midwinter Cozy.  They are however, larger.  The fabrics pictured in the diagrams are from Midwinter Reds by Minick and Simpson)
          • Flying Goose Units
            • Gather from kit
              • 8, 3″ x 3″ squares
              • 4, 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles
            • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 3″ square (Get out the sand paper.  Place your fabric wrong side up on top of the paper.  The sandy grit will keep your piece from moving as you draw on it.)
            • With right sides together align one square atop one rectangle.
            • Sew along the line but just to the outside. (on the side toward the smallest part of the rectangle
            • Iron flap open – pushing the triangle lying over the larger part of the rectangle up and over the seam.
            • Trim the excess fabric from the back of the patch, or leave it there to help your patch keep it’s shape.  The choice is yours.
            • You now have a rectangle with one corner different.
            • Repeat the process on the opposite side of triangle.
            • Be careful to get the seam going in the right direction.  It should be perpendicular to the seam you already made.
            • Trim unit back to 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangle
            • Again, you choose to trim the seam allowances or not.
            • Repeat 3 times for a total of 4 units.
          • Block
            • Gather
              • 4 flying goose units
              • 4, 3″ x 3″ background squares
              • 1,5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ star square
            • Sew Rows
              • Top and bottom
                • Sew patches together as shown
                • Iron seam allowances towards the background squares
              • Center
                • Sew patches together as shown
          
                • Iron seam allowances towards the center
              • Sew rows together to form square.
              • Iron seam allowances away from the center block
                • NOTE: If you chose to not to trim the extra fabric from your goose units you will need to clip the seams to make them lie flat.  Clip the seam allowance ONLY, at the 4 intersections.  This will allow you to iron the bulky seam allowances to remain flat.  They will fall away from the goose units.)
              • Trim final block to 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″
            • Add the 1/4 sashing piece, 3″ x 10 1/2″  to one side of the block
            • Iron seam allowance towards the sashing
            • Repeat process 24 more times for 25 blocks.
          • The top
            • Rows
              • Gather
                • 25, 10 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ blocks (5 in each color way)
              • Arrange blocks.
                • This is where a design wall comes in handy.  If you don’t have one, no worries, I don’t have one either (no walls in my studio…really).  You can use the floor, or your bed, or even the curtain on your shower.  You just need a place where you can lay out your pieces.
                • Once you are satisfied with the layout take a quick picture with your phone.  This will do two things for you
                  • It will help you remember where the pieces go.  AND
                  • It will give you a different perspective – one last peak at the arrangment to make sure you like it.
                • The blocks should be arranged in 5 rows of 5 with all of the same colorway in the same row.
                • Alternate rows should have alternate the side of the block where the 1/4 sashing is.
                • If your rows differ in length – they shouldn’t, but sometimes things happen – you can trim them to equal lengths.  Do this on the  1/4 sashing end of the row.  (The stars are supposed to be offset, no one is going to notice if an end 1/4 sashing is slightly smaller.) 
                • Sew blocks together to make rows
                • Iron seam allowances towards the 1/4 sashing.
          • Sashing
            • Gather 
              • 5 rows with 5 blocks each
              • 8 – 3″ x WOF strips from solids (2 of each color)
            • Sew solid strips together in matching sets.
            • Iron seam allowances open
            • Sew solids rows between pieced rows.
            • Irons seam allowances towards the solid rows.
          • Inner Border
            • The purpose of this inner border is to make the pieced outer border fit the pieced center.
            • The exact dimensions of the border will vary a little bit from one sewist to another.
            • Record the length and width of your top below.
              • Length = ___________  (mine was 60″) b
              • Width = ___________   (mine was 61 1/2″) a
          • Outer Border
            • Gather 60, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares
            • Randomly sew 4 sets of blocks
              • 2 rows of 14
              • 2 rows of 16
            • Irons seam allowances open.
            • Record the length of each row
              • 14 block row =  _____________ (mine was 64) A
              • 16 block row =  _____________ (mine was 72 1/2″) B
          • Inner Border
            • The finished width of the inner border needs to be the difference between the length one side of the top and the corresponding length of the outer border, divided by 2 (because we want it evenly spaced on two sides of the quilt).  Add 1/2″ to this number to get the width you need to cut your strips. 
          • Please don’t be turned off …. this is easy math… you can do it.
          • For the short side (labeled A and a in the picture) you need to figure out x.
            • NOTE: A does NOT include the corner squares.  This is the short side of the quilt.
            • A – a = x = the finished width of this strip
              • mine was 64 – 61.5 = 2.5
            • (x/2)+ .5″ = the width to cut your inner border
              • mine was 2.5 / 2 + .5 = 1.25 +.5 = 1.75″
            • Cut 4 strips this wide x WOF
          • For the long side (labeled B and b in the picture) you need to figure out y.
            • B does include the corner squares.  They are already attached to your strip, but they do not effect the width needed for your inner border.  Subtract 9.5″ from B.
            • (B – 9.5″) – b = y = the finished width of this strip
              • mine was (72.5 – 9.5) – 60 = 3
            • (y/2) + .5″= the width to cut your inner border
              • mine was 3/2 + .5 = 1.5 + .5 = 2″
            • Cut 4 strips this wide x WOF
          • If you have any trouble figuring this out for your quilt please contact me.  I would be glad to help you.
          • Attach inner borders
            • Short sides first.
            • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
          • Attach outer borders
            • Short sides first
            • Iron seam allowances towards the inner borders.
          • Layer and quilt as desired.


            One super fun quilted throw measuring approximately 71″ x 73″.

            It is the perfect place to sit and gather giggles with your favorite girl. I’d love to see your finished quilt. Please send me a picture, or add it to the Tops to Treasures flickr group.

            Cindy Sharp
            {topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

            Hallie’s Hexi Stars

            My name is Konda Luckau of Moose on the Porch Quilts. I have been quilting for a long time. In the past, I have always said that the only reason I can quilt is because I could do everything on a machine. With 6 kids from 4 – 14, I don’t always get as much time to quilt as I would like. I love precuts because I can start sewing faster. I love quick projects because I can actually get them finished.

            I have recently been changing my mind. I still like to see projects finished, but I have tried hand piecing and hand quilting. I started small. I found that hand applique is too slow of a process for me. Hand piecing surprised me. I enjoyed being able to work on it while waiting for kids in various places.

            If you haven’t tried hand work, this might be a project to change your mind.

            1 Hope Chest Prints Honeycomb
            3/4 yard backing
            3/4 yard square batting
            1/2 yard binding


            1. Take 28 of the hexagons, 14 light and 14 dark. Each hexi star takes 2 light hexagons and 2 dark hexagons.

            2. Cut each hexagon into three diamonds as shown. Using a ruler from corner to corner, cut half way.

            3. Turn the hexagon and cut half way again. Repeat to make three diamonds as shown. 

            4. Take 2 sets of 3 light diamonds and 2 sets of 3 dark diamonds for one hexi star.

            5. Lightly mark the 1/4″ seam allowance on one of each dark diamond in a narrow V as shown. Lightly mark the 1/4″ seam allowance on all 6 of the light diamonds in a wide V as shown.

            6. Lay out half of the star with the marked diamond between two unmarked diamonds.

            7. Align two adjacent diamonds. Sew with a running stitch along marked line.

            8. Tie off the thread at the corner and align the next diamond. Continue sewing down the next side. Tie off and cut thread. Finger press.

            9. Repeat with the other three dark diamonds to make two half stars as shown.

            10. Mark the 1/4″ seam allowance along one side as shown.

            11. Pin the two halves together and sew along the marked line.

            12. Press seams in a circle and press seams open in the middle rotating in the opposite direction.

            13. Take one of the light diamonds. Align and pin it onto one dark diamond as shown. Sew along the marked seam allowance. Knot thread, but do not cut.

            14. Align the light diamond to the next dark diamond. Pin and sew the next marked seam allowance. Knot thread again, but do not cut unless you need to.

            15. Repeat with the next light diamond.

            16. Continue sewing the light diamonds around the dark star. That makes one Hexi Star.

            17. Repeat to make six Hexi Stars with a dark center and light edges. Make one Hexi Star with a light center and dark edges.

            18. When pressing, always rotate seams.

            19. Lay out seven Hexi Stars as shown. Hand piece in the same manner.

            20. Layer backing, batting, and top. Baste with pins or spray. 

            21. Hand or machine quilt.

            22. Cut the 1/2 yard of binding fabric into 2 1/2″ bias binding. Bind.


            One approximately 24″ table topper that you will be very proud to show off!

            I hope you will give hand piecing a try. If you do, I would love to see it! My email is kluckau(at)moosequilts.com. I hope you have as much fun as I did!
            Konda Luckau

            Down On The Farm Quilt


            Here in Canada we LOVE our red and white and especially love using this colour combo “Down on the Farm.”  When I saw these beautiful reds, tans and cream tones I just knew what type of design to focus on – a good ole’ barn raising and images from my Past, Present, and Future.  I hope everyone has as much fun with this quilt as I did . . . remember to customize it however you like to make it a “one-of-a-kind” quilt that creates memories for you.

            1 – “Midwinter Reds” layer cake by Minick and Simpson
            First and Third borders: 3/4 yard
            Second border: 1/3 yard
            Inserted Flap (Flange) border: 1/4 yard (optional)
            1/2 yard background fabric for paper-pieced blocks
            1/2 yard for centre squares and binding fabric
            1 1/2 yards of backing fabric
            46” x 54” batting

            Scraps of embroidery thread to stitch your hometown name on the elevator


            PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT.

            The blocks shown above are for your reference during the construction process.  If you are using a planned colour placement for your blocks you could cut your strips and label them as to the placement number as shown in the block above on the right.  If you are making your block scrappy, just be sure to follow the light side for your lights and the dark side for your darks.
            I have designed the pattern so that the upper farm scene can be adjusted to fit your measurements, so please do not stress if your blocks are a slightly different size!
            Now it’s time to open up that lovely layer cake and make a few decisions.
            Do a quick flip through all those gorgeous prints and pull out any of the duplicate ones and set them aside.
            Now have a look at your buildings, fence and tree blocks and decide what prints you want to use where.  Sometimes it doesn’t matter for the smaller pieces like the windows, doors and the roof on the house – scraps left over from making the log cabin blocks will work fine for some of those small pieces.  The elevator, barn, house, and tree use a bit bigger pieces and you want to make sure that you don’t run out of the print that you want to use for those blocks.  So pick out your favourites for these and set them aside . . . they may already be some of the duplicate ones that you’ve set aside and that is just fine. 
            Don’t worry about how many 10” x 10” squares you use – there is enough fabric in your layer cake to cut extra strips if needed.
            How to cut Log Cabin Strips:
            Make a stack of light, medium and dark 10” x 10“ prints – having approximately 4-6 prints in each stack (or whatever number you are comfortable cutting through at one time).
            Line up the left hand edges of your stack as close to perfect as possible.  Measure 1 5/8” from the left raw edge and make your first cut.
            Flip the strip around and trim off the raw edge to make a perfect 1 1/2” strip. 
            Continue cutting 1 1/2“ strips.
            From the light strips cut 4 – 1 1/2” strips from each print and from the dark prints, cut 5 – 1 1/2” strips – all your strips will be 10” long – do not cut into shorter segments at this stage. .  If you prefer cut one strip less of each of the prints and then just go back later in the construction process and cut a few of the prints that you feel you want to have a bit more of.

            Using the yardage that you have chosen for your center squares, cut 1 – 1 1/2” x 42” strip and sub-cut into 16 – 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” squares.
            Before you start sewing – check your seam allowance.  A perfect 1/4” is preferred, but in all cases ensure that whatever seam allowance you start with you continue through the entire quilt construction process.  To achieve the 7” finished square blocks for this project, I needed to move my needle setting over to the right by a couple of nudges.  Everyone’s machine may sew just a bit different and everyone’s presser foot might be a bit different, so be prepared to maybe have a 7” x 7” finished block, and maybe not.
            How to Sew Log Cabin Blocks:

            Step One:
            Place a center square and  a light strip right sides together and join with a 1/4” seam, using the machine’s presser foot as a guide.  Now line up your ruler against the straight edge of Print #1, and using your rotary cutter trim away the excess of Print #2 (refer to the block legend on Page 1 for reference).  Open squares and press seam allowance away from the center square.

            NOTE:  Remember that the last strip you added is always on top under the needle.  Sew with the wrong side of the finished work facing you, the new strip will always be underneath so that you can see the seam allowances and guide them away from the center of the block as you stitch.
            Step Two:
            Lay this unit on top of another light strip – right sides together.  Stitch this seam as shown in the photo.  Ensure that you push the seam allowance up as you sew over it.  Trim off piece #3 evenly with piece #1.  Press seam allowance away from the center square.

            Step Three:
            Turn the unit so that piece #3 is at the top and lay this section over a dark strip (#4).  Align the raw edges and stitch, ensuring that the previous seam allowance is pushed upwards.  Trim unit evenly with piece #1 and #2.  Press seam allowance away from the center square.

            Step Four:
            Now lay this partial block on top of another dark strip (#5).  Stitch and trim strip #5 even with the edge of unit #2 and #3.  Open up and press.


            Continue adding and trimming strips in this manner, always turning the block counter-clockwise as you add strips, until you have a block 7 1/2” x 7 1/2” square that looks like the block above.  Assembly line piecing works very well with this type of block if a planned colour placement is used.  As in the samples shown here, the prints are randomly placed which makes it a bit more difficult to use the assembly line method – a modified version does work, but not quite as efficiently.

            Give all of your blocks a final pressing and get them stacked and ready to lay out into a quilt.  Refer to the photo at the beginning of the blog post or play around with different layouts to find one that appeals to you.

            Cutting Strips for Paper Piecing
            There are many methods for paper piecing – please feel free to use whatever method works best for you and that you are comfortable with.

            Leftovers from the Log Cabin Blocks (1 1/2”) can be used for:  House Roof; House Door; Chimney; Barn Windows; Fence Posts; and Tree Trunk.

            Cut wider strips from remaining 10”x10“ fabrics:
            House Window: 2” strip
            Barn Door: 2 1/2” strip
            Barn Roof: 2” strip
            Barn: 1 1/2” and 2” strips
            Lean-to: 3” strip
            Lean-to Roof: 1”
            Elevator – Light Color: 3 3/4” strip
            Elevator – Dark Color: 2” strip

            Background Strips (all 42“ long) – Cut a variety and then use as needed.  I cut a 5”, 2” and 1” strip – the 5” works best for the backgrounds on the Lean-to, the Fence block and for the angled pieces in the Tree block.  The 1” strips work best for the Fence block and the sides of the House.  If you want a different size for a certain area, just cut it from the 5” strip as needed.

            The tree has a lot of different angles going on and sometimes those can be quite a challenge. The trick is to always use a wide enough strip to allow for coverage of the area that you are wanting to cover.  The other important thing to remember is to always do a bit of a mock-sewing, by either using a couple of pins or by holding the piece of fabric in place along the seam line and flipping it over to make sure that the shape you are wanting to cover is covered.  Sometimes it doesn’t seem to matter how carefully you plan, something still doesn’t work out in the end.  Always keep your seam ripper handy and take comfort in knowing that you’re not the first who has needed to re-work an angle!

            The tree block is the “adjusting block” that I talked about at the beginning.  Once the tree is paper pieced you can add the top background strip (1 1/2”).  Then add 2 1/2” strips of background fabric to each side.  These 2 1/2” strips are wider than you need and will allow you to custom fit your entire barn scene to fit your finished log cabin bottom unit.  Measure your log cabin unit, including seam allowance – mark that number down.  Sew as many of your farm scene blocks together as you can . . . remember they don’t need to be in the order that I have sewn them in – create your own barn scene.  Measure your pieced blocks including only the one set of seam allowances.  Calculate the measurement you need to fill the available space and add 1/2” inch to that measurement.  Trim your tree block to that measurement and sew it into the sequence you have chosen.  Now you can sew the farm scene unit to the log cabin unit to complete your quilt center.
             Adding the First Border
            1.  Measure through the middle row of blocks on the quilt top.
            2.  Cut 2 – 1 1/2” x 42“ strips of this measurement from your first border print.
            3.  Find the center of the quilt top and the center of the top border strip by folding them in half. Mark the halfway point with a pin or fabric marker. With right sides together, pin the center of the border to the center of the top. Pin the ends of the border strip to the ends of the quilt top and then pin every two or three inches, easing in any fullness.
            4.  Using ¼ inch seam, stitch the top borders in place, being careful to ease in any fullness. As you are sewing your borders into place, be careful to keep the seams on your blocks laying in the direction they were pressed in.  Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the bottom border.
            5.  Press the seams.
            6.  Measure the quilt top from top to bottom across the center, including the borders just sewn on.  Repeat steps 3 to 5.
            Note:  For longer borders:
            If your measurement is longer than one length of the 42” strip, the borders will need to be pieced – just straight seam border strips together to make a longer length and then cut to the length needed.

            Adding the Second Border:
            Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the 2 1/2” second border.

            Preparing and Applying the Flap (Flange) Border – (Optional)
            1.  Using 5  1¼” inner border strips, straight seam them together end-to-end to create one long strip.
            2. Press the entire strip in half, wrong sides together.
            3.  Measure the quilt top from top to bottom and side to side across the center, including the borders just sewn on and cut four lengths of the flap border strip to those measurements.
            4.  Using a 1/8” seam allowance, and with the right side of the quilt facing you, start stitching the strip to the first border, matching centers and ends as per step 3 above.
            5.  Repeat for the other side and top and bottom of the quilt.

            Adding the Third Border:
            Repeat steps 1 to 6 for adding the first border using the 3 1/2“ third border print strips.

            Embroider the name of your hometown on the front of the elevator and any other special touches that you want to make to your quilt.  The quilt top is now complete and ready for one final pressing before being layered and basted for quilting.  This quilt was quilted by Terry Whitman in Estevan, Saskatchewan and she made swirly wind stitching around the buildings and diagonal quilting across the body of the quilt.  The border has been quilted with a diamond/zig zag pattern.  Terry added sunflowers and other flowers on top of the barn and cabin, as well as a wheat sheaf on the elevator.

            Binding:  Measure the top, bottom and sides of your quilt and divide this number by 42” (width of fabric) and using the number you get, round up to the nearest whole number.  This is the number of 2 1/4” strips you need to cut for binding strips.  Using a diagonal seam, stitch these strips into a long continuous unit.  Press strip in half with wrong sides together.  Stitch to the right side of the quilt aligning raw edges as you go and mitering corners as you come to them.  Turn edge over to the back side of the quilt and hand stitch in place.  Make a log cabin label and attach with pride!

            I hope you enjoyed your time “Down on the Farm” with me.

            Finished Quilt: 40″ x 48″

            Marlene Biles
            {www.sipiweskequilts.blogspot.com}

            Peanut Butter and Kelli Quilt


            Hey, it’s Kelli here from Jo’s Country Junction.  My youngest sister Kalissa and I have always been close.  When she was little, her nickname was Peanut as compared to all of us other kids, she was a peanut. Her nickname Peanut eventually evolved into Peanut Butter.  Because I was (and still am) her favorite sibling, we used to change the words of our favorite Barney song, Peanut Butter and Jelly, to Peanut Butter and Kelli.  After we completed this quilt, Kalissa expressed her love of it.  Because we used the Moda fabric line PB & J, we decided to name the quilt Peanut Butter and Kelli.

            Stop over to our blog for a chance to win a jelly roll after you’re done reading the tutorial.
            Follow along and you can make your own.
            You’ll need a fat quarter bundle and some yardage.

            1 fat quarter bundle PB & J
            4 yards neutral print (We used ½ yard of each of the 8 neutral prints)
            1 yard neutral (border)
            1 yard dark print (binding)
            2.5 yards dark solid (borders, block outline)
            8 yards for backing


            From each of 32 colored fat quarters, cut the following:
                        -1- 3.75” x 21” strip (stars)
                        -2- 3” x 21” strips (sashing)
                        -2- 1.75” x 21” strips (sashing, pieced border)

            From each of 8 lighter fat quarters, cut the following:
                        -3- 3.75” strips (stars)

            From neutral border cut 10- 3”strips

            From binding fabric, cut 10- 2.5” strips

            From dark solid, cut the following:
                        -27- 1.5” strips (star outline)
                        -6- 1.75” strips (pieced border)
                        -10- 3” strips (border)
            Making Star Blocks:

            From 32- 3.75”  colored strips, cut 1- 5” rectangle and 2- 3.75” squares.  A total of 32- 5” rectangles and 64- 3.75” squares.

            From 24- 3.75” lighter strips, cut 8 (1 of each print) into 4- 5” segments from each to yield a total on 24- 5” segments.  Using the remaining 16- 3.75” neutral strips, cut a total of 64- 3.75” squares.
            1.  Pair 1 colored 5” segment with 1 neutral 5” segment.  With right sides together, use an easy angle ruler to cut 2 half square triangles.  Sew together using a ¼ inch seam.  Press to the colored print. Continue with all of hte 5″ segments.  It you haven’t used an Easy Angle ruler before, here’s a great tutorial Bonnie Hunter did showing you how.
            2.  Assemble star by first sewing the dark square together into a four patch.

            -Then sew the half square triangles together as shown.

            -Sew two to the side of the four patch.

            -Sew a light colored square to each end of the remaining start points.



            -Then sew the final strip to the outside.

            Outlining the Star:

            3.  Using 11 of the 1.5” dark solid strips, cut a total of 32- 1.5” x 13.5” strips (3 from each strip).  Sew to opposite sides of each star block.  Press to the dark “frame.”

             

            4.  Using the remaining 16 strips, cut 32- 1.5” x 15.5” rectangles.  Sew to opposite sides of the star.  Press to the dark “frame.”

             

            Making the Sashing Blocks:

            5.  From each neutral ½ yard cut, cut a total of 3- 3” strips.  Cut each in half (approximate) to yield a total of 24- 3” x approximately 21” strips.

            6.  With right sides together, pair 1 colored 3” x 21” strip with 1 neutral 3” x 21” strip. 

            7.  Using your easy angle ruler, cut a total of 10 half square triangles from each set.  Sew using a 1/4 “ seam.  Press to the colored half.  Make a total of 448 half square triangles.

             

            8.  Using the colored 1.75” strips, cut a total of 576- 1.75” squares (448 for sashing blocks, 128 for pieced border).
            9.  With right sides together, place a colored 1.75” square in the neutral half of the half square triangle.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner.  Trim excess fabric and press to the colored square.  Repeat for each of the 448 sashing blocks.

             

            10.  Sew the newly created units together as shown creating 16 blocks.

             

            11.  Sew the blocks together in a 4 x 4 setting as shown.

             

            Making the Pieced Borders:

            12.  Subcut the 6- 1.75” strips into 64- 1.75” x 3” rectangles.

            13.  Following the diagram below, using the remaining 128- 1.75” squares, place a colored square on one end of the dark rectangle with right sides together.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the colored square.  Trim excess and press to the colored square.  

            14.  Repeat on opposite end.  Continue making 64 pieced border blocks.

             


            15.  Using the remaining 1.75” colored strips and the remaining 1.75” dark strip, create 4- 1.75” half square triangles using your easy angle ruler.  Press to the dark.

            16.  Sew 16 of the newly created border pieces together.  Make four sets of these border units.  Add a half square triangle to both ends of two of the strips.

            17.  Add newly created border as shown.

             

            18.  Next add the neutral, then dark borders.

             

            19.  Quilt and bind using 2.5” binding strips.

            Come on over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see how mom quilted our version.


            Finished Quilt Size—93” x 93”
             

            Jo Kramer
            {www.joscountryjunction.com}

            Sunnyside Diamond Zig-Zag Quilt


            Hi, I’m Janice Ryan and I blog about quilting and sewing at Better Off Thread.  I am really excited to be sharing my very first Bake Shop Recipe with you today. 

            My sister and I both learned the joy of creating handmade items from my mom.  Whether it was doll clothing, Halloween costumes, christmas cookies or homemade playdough, I have very fond memories of crafting with my family.   I am now the family quilter and my sister, Judy, is the knitter/crocheter.  She made my children their very first blankets, and those blankies have seen their share of snuggles and tears and games of tug ‘o’ war.  I wanted to make my sister a cozy quilt for snuggling under, with a good book, on all those rainy East Coast days (and there have been a LOT this summer.).  Since I live in California, I thought I would send her a little bit of sun and Sunnyside by Kate Spain was the perfect choice.  I love how the diamonds create a sunburst and make the colors dance around the quilt.  I hope my quilt adds a little sunshine to your day, too.

            1 Jelly Roll- Sunnyside by Kate Spain
            2 yards background fabric- Moda Bella in White
            4 yards backing fabric

            Please read all instructions prior to making this quilt! All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.
            Step 1: Make Diamond Panels

            Separate your jelly roll into 4 sets of 9 strips each.  You will want 5 different colors in each set:
            – color 1 = 1 strip
            – color 2 = 2 strips
            – color 3 = 3 strips
            – color 4 = 2 strips
            – color 5 = 1 strip
            My sets were made up of the colors listed below:

            Take your first set of 9 strips and sew them together into 3 sets of 3 (arrange them in the same order as the diagram above.)  Each strip will be offset 2 1/4″ lower than the previous one. Press seams open.

            Tip: lightly starch your strip sets to keep them from stretching once they are cut on the bias.

            Cut your strip set every 2 1/2″ at a 45º angle. Cut 10 strips.

            Tip: I use the angle lines my normal quilter’s ruler to cut the 45º angle, but there are various specialty angle rulers that can be purchased.

            Repeat for your 2 other sets of strips.
            Sew one strip from each set together, matching seams.
            You will now have one diamond panel.  
            Repeat to make 10 diamonds panels and then repeat Step 1 on your other 3 sets of 9 strips.  You will have 40 diamonds when completed.
            Tip: You can find a photo tutorial for making these diamond panels on my blog.


            Step 2: Cutting Background

            From your background fabric cut 10 strips 6 1/2″ x WOF (about 44″).
            Starting at the bottom left corner of your strip, cut a 45º angle.  Make a 45º cut every 9″.  Each strip will yield 4 diamonds (background diamonds will be the same exact size as a finished diamond panel from step one.).
            Tip: if you are feeling adventurous, you can layer 3-4 strips and cut them all at the same time.

            Cut all strips until you have 40 diamonds.
            Cut 10 diamonds in half, as pictured in the diagram above.

            Step 3: Piecing the Quilt Top


            Piece diamonds vertically into 10 rows, then sew rows together.

            Your top is now done! Baste, quilt and bind as desired. I used my leftover strips and a few scraps to make my binding.

            One 58″ x 65″ quilt…

            perfect for snuggling under on a rainy day.

            If you use this pattern, be sure to send me a photo!

            Janice Ryan
            {www.betteroffthread.com}