Paradise Batik Wave Quilt

Hi everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I have a really fun, versatile and easy bed-sized quilt for you! This quilt only uses four patches and solid blocks! It’s all about colour placement and positioning. This quilt would be great for a younger person and any fabrics will work just as well. It can be done super scrappy or with only a few prints. While I used fat quarters, you can make it the exactly the same by using 30 jelly roll strips, cut in half.

You can make the quilt bigger or smaller by adding or subtracting blocks in multiples of 2. Any solid can be used and any fabric line will look stunning! Go grab your favorite line and let’s get sewing!
As always please read through the directions before starting and if you have any questions or comments please come on over to my blog!


9 FQs Paradise Batiks, or (1) 2 1/2 x 21″ strip from 20 FQs, and (2) 2 1/2 x 21″ strips from 20 FQs
1 Bella Solids Black Jelly Roll, or 2 yards Bella Solids Black
3 3/4 yards Bella Solid Black, or 6 Bella Solids charm packs in black.


Cutting
Cut 2 1/2″ x 21″ strips from the fat quarters. You can use all 9 strips from the fat quarter or cut 2 strips from each FQ in the bundle. You will need (60) 2 1/2″ x 21″ strips.

Cut (30) jelly roll strips in half so that you have (60) 2 1/2″ x 21-22″ strips.

Cut (30) 4 1/2″ x WOF strips from Bella Solids Black. Sub-cut each strip into 4 1/2″ squares. You need (240) 4 1/2″ squares.

Assembly

Stitch (1) batik strip to (1) black strip lengthwise. Press to the black. Repeat with all 60 strips.

Lay your ruler across both fabrics and cut every 2 1/2″, creating 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2 strips. Cut all of the strip sets like this. You will end up with (480) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ strips.

Take (2) of these strips and lay right sides together with opposite fabrics touching (black touching batik). Stitch lengthwise to create a 4 patch. Press open. Repeat with all of the strips so that you have 240 four patches.

Stitch (1) 4 1/2″ black square to (1) four patch, and press towards the black. Repeat.

Take the two units and lay right sides together so that the batik pieces are in the middle and the solid patch and four patch are touching. Stitch together. Create 120 of these.

There are 12 rows for the quilt… 6 for the top half, with the first blocks pointing up, and 6 for the bottom half with the first blocks pointing down. Each row has 10 blocks. Stitch rows. Press rows in alternating directions so that when you stitch the rows together the seams will “snap” together. Because the black hides all the seams and block lines, I’ve provided a layout with white so you can see it better.

Stitch the rows together. Press well.

Now for the most loved/hated words in quilting- baste, quilt and bind!

I quilted mine only in the black with circles in each square.

To make this quilt bigger, you can add borders or additional rows. 12 blocks by 12 blocks will yield a 96″ square top.

For a King size quilt make 14 x 14 blocks, yielding 112″ x 112″ quilt.

One 80″ x 96″ sized quilt!

Cara Wilson
{caraquilts.com}

Giddy Wrapped Heart



Hi everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I’m back with a fun Valentine’s Day project for you! It only uses 1 layer cake and some yardage to make a 60″ x 64″ quilt! This quilt is the perfect size to snuggle under on the couch with your sweetie! It isn’t very hard and you can make it up in a weekend! As always, please read through the directions before starting and if you have any questions, you can message me over on my blog; I love hearing from you!


1 Giddy layer cake
2 x 1/4 yd of light prints, or 1/2 yd of one print/solid.
1/2 yard Essential Dots Moss
1/2 yd inner border
1 yard outer border
4 yards backing

Large Clover Heart yo-yo maker

(Buttons- do not add button if quilt is going to a child under 3!)

There are 4 different pieced blocks for this quilt and a bunch of 4 1/2″ plain blocks.

The layer cake has plenty of fabric for the coloured pieces but you need to decide how scrappy you want the pieced heart to be. You can cut all of a few layer squares, or a little of most of them; It’s up to you. Just make sure you have the required amount of each patch. I’ve included how many layer cake squares it will take to get the right number of patches.

To get the most out of your layer cake, I recommend cutting the larger patches first. You’ll be able to get some of the smaller pieces from what’s left over.

Remember if you want to add garnishes, you need (1) 5″ square per yo-yo heart.

Cut:

(28) 2 1/8 white squares, cut once on the diagonal (requires 1 3/4 layer cake squares)
(68) 2 1/2″ colour squares (requires 4 1/4 layer cake squares)
(32) 4 1/8″ white squares (requires 2 layer cake squares)
(4) 3 3/4″ white squares (requires 3/4 layer cake squares)
(8) 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ colour strips (requires 1 layer cake squares)
(8) 1 3/4″x 4 1/2″ white strips (requires 1 layer cake squares)
(74) 4 1/2″ white squares. (requires 18 1/2 layer cake squares, but cut mostly from your light yardage)
(12) 1/4″ x 4 1/2″ green strips ( 2- 1 1/4″ x WOF strips)
(46) 1 1/2″ x 7″ green strips ( 8- 1 1/2″ x WOF strips)

Block A – 14 total, 4″ finished

Take (1) 2 1/2″ square and stitch one of the 2 1/8″ triangles to each side. They will not go all the way to the edge. It’s not suppossed to.  Repeat so you have two of these units. Lay your ruler along the edge and cut of the extra bit from the 2 1/2″ square. Take (1) of the 1 1/2″ x 7″ greens strips and stitch to the triangle unit. Stitch the other triangle unit to the other side. Press towards the triangle units. Trim the block to 4 1/2″

Block B– 8 total, 4″ finished

Stitch (1) 1 7/8″ x 4 1/2″ white strip to (1) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ coloured strip. Stitch (1) 1 1/4 x 4 1/2″ green strip to the the white strip. Press the entire unit to the coloured strip. Repeat so you have 8 blocks.

Block C– 32 total, 4″ finished

Take (1) 4 1/8″ white square and stitch (1) 2 1/2″ coloured square to one corner using the stitch and flip method. Press the square open. Cut away the excess layers. Cut the entire unit in half on the diagonal, DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE TRIANGLE. Take (1) 1 1/2″ green strip and stitch the triangle units you just created to each side. Press. Trim to 4 1/2″. Repeat so that you have 32 blocks.

Block D – 4 total, 4″ finished

Take (1) 3 3/4″ white square, and stitch a 2 1/2″ square to one corner, using the stitch and flip method. Press and cut away the excess layers. Repeat on the other corner. Stitch (1) 1 1/4″ x 4 1/2″ green strip to the top of the unit. Press to the white.

Using the layout below, stitch the blocks into rows and then stitch the rows together. Make sure that you press the rows in opposite directions so the seams “snap” together when you sew them.



Borders


Measure your top well. Cut (5) 2 1/2″ x WOF. Cut (1) of the strips into quarters, about 11″. Using stitch and flip stitch the short piece to one end of each of the (4) uncut strips.  Press. Stitch a strip to each side of the top and press towards the strips. Stitch strips to the top and bottom. Press towards the strips.

Cut (6) 5 1/2″ x WOF strips for your outer border.  From (1) strip, cut (2) 8″ strips. Cut the remainder in half. Each should measure about 13 1/2.” Using the stitch and flip method, attach (1) of the shorter strips to one end of each of the full strips.

Stitch the shorter (2) strips to the sides of the quilt. Press toward the center. Attach the remaining two strips to the top and bottom and press towards the center.

Baste, Quilt and Bind! For quilting, I did a meander with heart “leaves” in the border and center of the quilt. I quilted feathers going in opposite directions around the outside and through the pieced heart.

Yo-Yos


Follow the manufacturer’s directions and create however many heart yo-yos you would like. Stitch a cute button to the yo-yo and then stitch the whole unit to the quilt. I just scattered them through out randomly!

DO NOT ADD BUTTONS IF GOING TO A CHILD UNDER 3!!  They are a choking hazard.

Viola! One fun Valentine’s Day quilt!

I’d love to see yours if you make one! E-mail me over on my blog or post on the Moda Bake Shop flickr group!!

Cara Wilson
{CaraQuilts}

Antique Etoiles


When looking at Maison de Garance I was reminded of an antiqued cross stitch I’d once seen in the old homestead where my great-grandparents had lived. The cross stitch had a Ukrainian design and the bright whites and reds faded and stained over time. This design emerged as I tried to think of how I could piece something simple, at least simple compared to the intricate designs that can be cross stitched and embroidered. Antique Etoiles, which translates into Antique Stars, was born from there.

1 layer cake, Maison de Garance
1 charm pack, Maison de Garance
2/3 yard Tea background
1/2 yard Oyster background
2/3 yard Red “bars”
2 1/8 yards Old Brown (Border, setting triangles )
4 yards backing fabric
1/2 binding

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric, from selvage to selvage.
QST = Quarter Square Triangle

From the Red cut (4) 5” x WOF strips and subcut to a total of (124) 1¼” x 5″ strips, these are the “bars.”

From the Oyster background cut (5) 3 ½” x WOF strips. Sub cut into (60) 3 ½” squares. Cut in half diagonally.

From the Tea background cut (5) 3 ½” x WOF strips. Sub cut into (64) 3 ½” squares. Cut in half diagonally.

Cut (25) Red 3 ½” squares, from the layer cake squares and charm squares.

Cut one 5” x WOF of Old Brown and subcut (6) 5” squares for the QSTs.

For the setting triangles cut (3) 14” squares of Old Brown and cut in half on the diagonal twice.

For the setting triangles cut (1) 7 1/2″ x WOF strips of Old Brown. Subcut into (12) 3 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ strips.

For the corner triangles cut (2) 7 ¼” squares of Old Brown and cut in half once on the diagonal.

Borders- From Old Brown cut (7) 5 1/2″ x WOF. Subcut 1 of the strips in half.

Sewing

Create Quarter Square Triangles that finish at 3″. You can use whatever method you prefer, so long as you can make them from 5″ squares. This is how I made mine.

Draw a line diagonally across each of the Oyster and Tea squares.

Layer one Old Brown and one Oyster 5” square, charm square or cut from the layer cake, right sides together and stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along line and press towards the light side. Repeat 25 times.

Layer one Tea and one Old Brown right sides together and stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along line and press towards the light side. Repeat 25 times.

Layer on Oyster/Old Brown and one Tea/Old Brown squares right sides together with the Old Brown laying on top of each other. Again stitch ¼” on either side of the center line. Cut apart and press open. Line up the 1 ¾” mark on the center and with the line on the ruler on the diagonal through the center. Trim blocks to 3 ½”.

Using the background triangles, stitch one 1 ¼” red strip to the long side of the triangle. Stitch a matching triangle to the other side of the strip. Press away from the strip.

Finger press in half diagonally, so that you can find the center of the red strip lengthwise (figure 1).

Open and finger press diagonally the opposite direction (figure 2).

Open and line up your ruler with the line matching up with the finger pressed line and the 1 ¾” mark on the center and trim to 3 ½” square (figure 3).

Make 48 with Oyster and 64 in Tea.

Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3

Arrange the patches into a 9 patch as per the diagram. Because each set of QSTs yields 4 matching patches, you can have each star have the same fabric points, or you can go random, which is what I did.

Setting Triangles

In the same manner used for the blocks, create 12 additional Oyster and Red “bar” patches.

Take (1) 3 1/2 x 7 1/2″ strip of Old Brown and stitch the Oyster bar patch to the end. Stitch the unit to the bottom of the cut setting triangle. Press.
Line up your ruler across the top and trim off the excess as shown in picture. Repeat so that you have 12 setting triangles.

Layout the quilt on point with the Oyster and Tea squares alternating. Stitch together. Don’t worry about overlap, it can be trimmed off.

Lay your ruler along the quilt top, lining up the points of the blocks with your 1/2″ line. Trim the entire top.

Border #1

Take the 1 Oyster, 1 Tea and 1 Red layer square and cut into 2″ x 10″ strips. Stitch together lengthwise following the pattern Oyster, Tea, Oyster, Tea, Red, Oyster, Tea, Oyster, Tea. Press all in one direction. Subcut into 2″ strips. Make up each border strip with 6 of these sections.

Attach a strip to the top and bottom and press towards the center.

Cut (2) 2 1/2″ squares from both the Old Brown and the Red. Draw a line diagonally across the Red squares. Layer one Old Brown and one Red square right sides together and stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along line and press towards the Red side. Trim to 2″.

Attach one HST to the end of each of the remaining strips. Make sure the red points down and in.
Attach to the sides of the top. Press towards the top.

Border #2

Using the stitch and flip method, attach one half strip to one of the full strips.

Place strips right sides together at a 90 degree angle and stitch from one corner to the other.  Open and press well. Trim to a ¼” seam allowance.

Press. Repeat so you have two of these strips.

Attach one of the strips to each of the sides and press towards the strip.

Using the stitch and flip method again, attach one full length strip to another full length strip. Press. Repeat.

Attach to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press towards the strips.

Now for the for the most loved and hated words in quilting; Baste, Quilt and Bind!

One 64” x 64″ quilt, perfect cozy under this cold winter!

Cara Wilson

Fandango Filing Cabinet Cover


Hey everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I’ve got a great project today to hide that ugly filing cabinet we all have somewhere! Instead of cold grey metal, how about looking at some luscious fabrics, like these from the beautiful and talented Kate Spain!

This pattern requires you to do some math if your filing cabinet is sized differently then mine, which is a standard two drawer legal size one (whoa that’s a mouthful). It measured 29″ long, 27″ high and 15″ across.

As always, please read through the pattern first and message me over at my blog if you have any questions.

2 layer cakes
1 yard “border”
5 yards backing


Cutting
WOF= Width of Fabric, from selvage to selvage.
(3) 2 ½” xWOF border fabric, sub cut to (4) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ and (4) 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″
 (1) 4” x WOF border fabric, subcut (2) 15 ½” strips

Directions
All seams should be ¼”.

Center Section:
Separate your layer squares according to color.

Take 8 layer squares (4 matching pairs) and draw a line on the light squares diagonally corner to corner. Lay a dark and light square right sides together into 4 pairs. Stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along the line and press towards the dark. These are half square triangles (HST) and this is the method to I used whenever you see make HST in this pattern.

Choose 8 squares for the “setting”. Draw a line diagonally from corner to corner on the wrong side.
Lay one of the setting squares on top of the half square triangle, right sides together. Stitch on either side of the line. Cut on the line and press towards the “setting”.

The blocks need to be trimmed to 8”. Line up your ruler with the 4×4 mark on the center of the block. Trim. Rotate the block and line up the edges on the 8” lines, and trim.

Lay out the blocks so that they create a pinwheel. You will use two from each of the matching sets.

Stitch together the top pieces and bottom pieces. Press in opposite directions so you can “snap” them together. Stitch the top and bottom together. Press. Repeat for all blocks.

Create one more “set” of pinwheels. This time lay them out before you trim. Trim one set to 8” as before. This one goes in the middle of the pinwheels.

The other set needs to be trimmed to 5 ¾” and once it is stitched together, set aside for the side section. This will be part of one of the pockets.

Take the 4” x 15 ½” border strips and stitch to either end of the section Press towards the strip.

Side Sections:

You will be making two matching side sections.

You will need 5 layer squares cut to 9 ½”.

Take four layer squares, two of four different colors, and create eight HSTs.

A note … if you are not the quilting queen of the scant ¼”, which I am not, stitch a few extra threads shy of the ¼” so you will be able to trim the HST accurately.

Trim to 9 ½” square.

Stitch into a 9-patch according to the diagram.

Take two matching layer squares, I used the multi-colored strip, and cut (6) 2 ½” x 10” strips. Stitch together to make (2) 29” strips. Stitch these to what will be the top of the side, or the bottom if you prefer.

Pockets

Take the smaller pinwheel from the center section and stitch a 2 ½” x 10 ½” strip on the top and bottom. Press towards the strips. Attach the 2 ½” x 14 ½” strip to the sides. Press away from the center. This will be one of the pockets.

Cut one 5×10” strip from two fabrics. Subcut to 5”. Make another 4 HSTs. Layout in a pinwheel, with the point of one color in the center. Stitch together.

Take one layer square and cut it diagonally into 4 triangles. These are the setting triangles for the pinwheel. Stitch along the long edge to the top and bottom of the pinwheel. Press away. Attach along the sides and press. Trim to 10 ½”. Stitch a 2 ½” x 10 ½” on the top and bottom. Press towards the strips. Attach the 2 ½” x 14 ½” strips to the sides. Press away from the center.

You will need to fill the remaining three corners so that this big thing can be quilted. I have a pattern up on my blog if you like or you can use solid fabric, or any pattern that gives you a 29″ square top.

Stitch all the sides together and then stitch them to either side of the center section.

Quilt.

After quilting, cut out the four corners leaving you something looking like a “t” or a cross.

Bind. Mine had 320″ of binding. Yes, I am sorry about that part.

To make the pockets take the cut out square and cut out the 2 pinwheels, including the edging. Cut a matching size of the plain fabric. These will yield a total of four pockets. I layered mine so I had two pockets on each side of my cabinet.

Pocket Option #1

Fold over the edge on one side of each square and press. Stitch it down on the “wrong” side.

Layer two squares right side to wrong. Lay the plain square right side down, and then lay the pinwheel also right side down. Stitch around the three sides that were not pressed and stitched.

Turn inside right and poke out the corners and press.

This is your double pocket. Lay in the center of a side section, making sure it it facing up, and with a walking foot stitch 1/4″ all around, leaving the top open.

Pocket Option #2

Trim both the pinwheel square and the plain square to the same size. Now trim down the plain square about 1″ more. At the point I was done binding so I just pressed a 1/4″ allowance all around each block and stitched down. Laying the square so that the wrong sides are facing up. Stitch over the folded over fabrics stitch line on the smaller of the pockets. See the picture below.

To attach the pocket to the cover, line it up over the centre square, right side facing you. Stitch 1/4″ in from the edge on the outer pocket. 

And there you are!

One beautiful looking filing cabinet!

Make sure to leave us a comment if you like it! Also upload a picture to the Moda Bake Shop flickr group if you make one so we can all see!

Cara Wilson
Cara Quilts

Pure Comfort

Hi everyone! It’s Cara from CaraQuilts and I’ve got a project for all of you who are always chilled, or live with someone like my husband who is always hot, and therefore makes the house cold!!

This is a quilted wrap/shawl, and all it takes is one jelly roll! Very little waste in this one. And it’s easy! And fast! What else could you ask for?? I have to tell you I’ve pretty much lived in this wrap since I finished it.

Like any pattern, please read through it completely before starting. If you have any questions at all, just e-mail/message me over at my blog and I’d be happy to help! Oh, and make sure to let us know if you like the pattern! 🙂


1 Pure Jelly Roll
1 3/4 yards Snuggles Chocolate, backing
1/2 yard binding


3.5 yards Pure twill tape (see option)

Center Section

Separate 29 strips for the center section of the wrap. Cut these down to 25 1/2″. Take the cutoffs and trim them down to 16 ½” and set aside for use in the side sections.

Sew the center section strips together, alternating direction to help prevent stretching. Press well, all in one direction. Clean up the sides so they are even. Measure the length of the wrap; this is how long your sides have to be. It should measure 58 1/2”.

Sides
Take the remaining full length strips and cut them down to 26½”. Attach one cutoff piece to either end of the 26½” strips. Arrange the strips in whatever order you like best and stitch together into (2) 6 strip pieces.

Alternate the strips coloring, both in the middle and end strips.

Note: If making for either a plus size (because I love you all I’ll admit to being a 14, which will give you a perspective) or someone tall (over 5’10’’, again because I love you, I’m 5’8”) you may want to make the wrap wider. To do this, cut two extra 2½” strips from the binding fabric. Trim down to 26½”. Add 16 ½” cutoff strips to either end. Attach to the side sections. This makes the wrap 4½” wider, about 53½”. If you need to go any wider you will have to adjust the backing measurements, so you have room for it to shrink up as you quilt.

Cut 8 of the remaining cut offs to 141/2″. Stitch 4 strips end-to-end so that you have (2) four strip sections measuring 58 1/2″. Press in half, wrong sides together. Press in half again. Pin on the edge of the center section, layering the side sections on top. Stitch through all layers. Press away from the center.
Option: Instead of the folded strips, you could sew the side sections to the center, and press, and then use the twill tape that is available for the line, and place it over the seam, pinning well, and stitch on either side.
Baste and quilt. I would suggest not quilting very heavily as you want it to drape and wrap around you well. Too much thread will make it stiff, and you’ll lose some of the snuggley softness of the, well, Snuggles!

DO NOT BIND…yet anyways 😉

Now to make this a wrap and not a quilt.

Measure the entire piece and find the center, if you don’t have anything this long, just fold in half and press lightly. Mark this with chalk pencil or whatever non-permanent method you prefer.

From that point go up to the 16th strips from the bottom. Mark.

Go back to the bottom mark and measure out 2” on each side and mark.
Draw a line from the mark you just made to the 15th strip mark. Do this on both sides. Sew on the line all the way up, and repeat on the other side.

Cut out the center “triangle” a scant ¼” from the sewing line.

For the binding, you will need about 290″, including the 10″+ extra for corners etc.
I use 2″ strips for binding so if you use wider you will have to recalculate the yardage. Cut 7 strips.

Now you get to bind! Wrap up and enjoy some Pure comfort!

Be sure to take a picture and upload it to Bake Shop’s Flickr page so we can all see!

One adult size wrap/shawl! Get Cozy!

Cara Wilson

Film Strip

Hi there! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I’ve got a great pattern for you all today! Film Strip will work with any fabric line, and any solid or contrasting color can be used in place of the black. I think this would be very striking in any of the new Batiks Moda is coming out with soon. And of course, I love it in Prayer Flag!

Leah at Burgundy Buttons is offering a kit!

I’ve done a scrappy look, using all of the colors in the line, but this could also be done in just 3 color groups, the teal, lemon, and coral would give you a warm feel, the grass, aqua, and white would result in a cooler, beachy feel.


1 Jelly Roll and 1 Layer Cake in Prayer Flag
1 Bella Solid Jelly Roll in black, or 2 yards.
1/2 yard Bella Solid Black for binding.


Cutting

Pick 14 layer cake squares for the film “frames”. Trim each to an 8½” square.
Separate 21 Jelly Roll strips and trim (2) 19” x 2½” from each strip. Or, use all 40 and have (1) 19” x 2½”strip from all but 2 strips which you will cut (2)19” x 2½”strips.
Regardless, a total of (42) 19” x 2½” strips are needed.
Separate 3 Bella Solids black jelly roll strips and trim them to make (12) 8½”x2½” strips.
Sewing

Take 22 Bella Solid strips and join them into (11) long strips using the flip and stitch method. Place strips right sides together at a 90 degree angle and stitch from one corner to the other.  Open and press well. Trim to a ¼” seam allowance.

These will be referred to as the long black strips. Set aside for now.

Starting with the “frames”(8 ½” squares), sash 8 of them on two opposing sides with the 8½”x2½” strips, and the remaining 6 on just one side. Join these into 3 sets: 2 with 5 frames and 1 with 4.

x2

x1

   Using the jelly roll strips, make 2 strip sets with 21 strips each. If you can, alternate direction when sewing strips together to avoid stretching. Press all in one direction. Trim the sides so the sets are 18 3/4″ wide.

 

Take the 4 frames section and measure its length. Attach one Bella Solids black strip along each side.

Now it’s time to start putting everything together.  Layout the two strip sets with the 4 frames section.

Press towards the center.

Take 6 of the long black strips and stitch together lengthwise into pairs. These are the wide long black strips and should be 4 1/2″ wide.
Take the 5 frames sections and attach one wide long strip to the top and one to the bottom of the each of the 5 frame sections and press.
Stitch one 5 frame section to the bottom and one to the top of the center section. Press.
Measure the length of the quilt. Cut the remaining wide long black strips to this length. Stitch one to each side of the top. Press towards the strips.

And now for the most loved and hated words in every quilt pattern…Baste, Quilt and Bind!

One 56 1/2″ x 74″ quilt ready for cuddling under while watching your favorite movie!

Cara
CaraQuilts

PS Be sure to check out my blog for a giveaway, and for ideas for the left over fabrics!

Prairie Point Christmas

Hey everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I’m back with an easy Christmas decoration. Yes, I’m already thinking about Christmas. I find it sneaks up on me too many years, so let’s get a head start now!

I love prairie points and it just seemed natural to make a tree out of them.

Like any pattern, please read through it before starting. If you have any questions at all, just e-mail/message me over at my blog and I’d be happy to help! Oh, and make sure to let us know if you like the pattern! 🙂


2 charm packs – Northwoods Botanical
1 Bella solids jelly roll – Snow
1/2 yard outer border – Red 6377 13

1/2 yard inner border and binding – Dark Green 6375 17


Optional buttons for decorations of the tree


Cutting:

From the jelly roll:

Cut 12 jelly roll strips to 24 1/2” long. (Cut a bit bigger if you like to have lots of room to trim nicely)
Cut 4 jelly roll strips to 12 1/2”, using the leftover from the above strips

From a brown charm square:

Cut (2) 2 1/2” x 4” strips

Prairie Points

To make a prairie point, take one 5” charm square (Diagram 1) and fold in half diagonally, wrong sides together.

Press (Diagram 2).

Fold in half again so all of the raw edges are on one end and press (Diagram 3).

If your iron has a steam shot, use it now! From now on I’ll refer to prairie points as pp.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2
Diagram 3

Repeat so that you have 55 prairie points (pp). I removed all of the cream/beige colored squares, but if you like the look of them mixed in, by all means use them. Using them will result in a multicolored scrappy second border, instead of the beige/cream.

Making the “tree”

Fold all of the tree jelly roll strips in half and finger press so you can see a faint line.
Line up one pp with the tip on your centerline.

Stay stitch in place. I used a narrow zigzag to hold in place. Stay stitch all strips with the pp. Make sure that you have caught all raw edge layers of the prairie point. If not, it will fray when washed.

For the second row, line up the 2 pp with the half way mark in the middle empty space between the pp.

For row 3, line up a pp on the half way mark. Add a pp to both sides, lining up the top edge point about half way on the previous pp. Tuck the pp on the right underneath the center one and so on.

Continue making rows going 5 pp, 7 pp, 5 pp, 7 pp, 9 pp, 7 pp, 9 pp. Make sure when you make the larger strips that there is at least 3/4″ on either side of the points on the end for a seam/trimming allowance.

Press well.

Stitch rows together, being careful to not sew the prairie points from the previous row into the seam. I flipped mine up so they were out of the way. Pinning is important here, even if you normally don’t do much pinning.

Press well. The top prairie point is pressed up and the rest are pressed down.

Add one 24 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ strip to the top of the tree.

Let’s make the trunk of the tree. Take the 2 1/2” x 4” strips and stitch a 12 1/2″ strip to either side. Repeat with the second 2 1/2” x 4” strip. Press the trunk strips in opposite directions – one toward the trunk and one away – so that they snap together when you stitch them. Stitch together and then stitch to the bottom strip of the tree. Press well.

Attach one more 24 1/2x 2 1/2″ strip to the bottom of the tree. Press.

Trim up the center section. Make sure there is at least 1/2″ past the points and that the top point is centered. Trim the block to 24 1/2″ x 29″ if necessary.

Borders

Measure your top well and often so that your borders will fit. Pinning is important here because of the weight of the top. A walking foot wouldn’t hurt either, but it isn’t necessary.

Border # 1
Cut (4) 1 1/2” x WOF (Width of Fabric) strips. Attach the long sides first and press away from the center. Attach the short sides. Press well, away from the center.

Border #2
Take all the cream/beige from one charm pack and two from the second, for a total of 14 charm squares. Trim these to 2 1/2” x 5”. Stitch rectangles end to end to create two 6-strip borders for the short side and two 8-strip borders for the long side. All of the strips will be a bit longer then necessary. I trimmed the excess off, but if you want them all exact make your seam a bit larger than 1/4″.
Attach the long sides first. Press towards the center. Attach the short sides and press towards the center.

Border #3
Cut (4) 4 1/2” x WOF strips. Attach strips to the short sides first. Press away from the center. Add the remaining borders and press away from the center.

The top is done!

Now for those words we either love or hate: Baste, Quilt, and Bind!

A word from the “wise”- quilt under the prairie points, making sure not to quilt over them. Also this is a very heavy quilt because of all the prairie points, so if you’re planning on hanging this, make sure you have double stitched your sleeve.

After quilting, I tacked the top prairie point down by lifting the point and catching the top layer of fabric on the underside of the prairie point. I stitched it a couple of times and knotted it off so it would not flop down.

One 38 1/2″ x 43″ tree!

I’d love to see your wall hanging. Add your project to the Bake Shop’s Flickr page!

Cara Wilson of CaraQuilts