Summer Sand and Stars Quilt

Summer Sand and Stars is about stars! Big stars, little Stars, embedded stars, floating stars…all made from the same basic set of instructions. Playing with shadows and color, it is the perfect picture of summer daydreams and night sailing.

This quilt is made from 12 large blocks, set in a 3 x 4 grid. There is one border with one setting square.

Stars: 1 Fat Quarter Bundle – I used Catalina Batiks
Backgrounds:

1¾ yards light – I used SKU #4328-41 from Summer Vacation Batiks
2½ yards dark – I used SKU #4328-42 from Summer Vacation Batiks

Binding: ¾ yards – I used SKU #4329-29 from Catalina Batiks
Backing: 5½ yards – I used SKU #4329-30 from Catalina Batiks
It will also be helpful to have at least 13 Ziploc sandwich bags to hold your pieces.
3 pieces of printer paper – on which to print a paper foundation pattern for the tiniest stars. When you print the patter be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″. If it does not you can adjust its size by fiddling with the sizing on your printer. The Printer Friendly file at the end of this post has the foundation pattern for the star.

Determine Color Placement. Think of your quilt as a piece of 8½” x 11″ white printer paper. In your mind, draw a line from one corner of the paper to its diagonal opposite. The colors in my quilt are loosely arranged along this line. The cooler colors (blues, purples, and greens) live in the north, above the line, and the warmer colors (reds, yellows, and oranges) live to the south, below the line. Sparkle happens when you let some of the colors drift across the imaginary border line. It creates little pockets of interest that keep your eyes moving across the quilt.

Look at the gray scale drawing below. Each block of the quilt is numbered. The light and dark backgrounds are shaded respectively with white and dark gray. The cold colors are black. The warm colors are light gray. Some blocks have three fabric in them. Where this is the case an additional gray is used.

With all these things in mind, turn to your stack of fabrics. You want to select the fabrics for each square and label them accordingly.

Fat Quarter cutting diagram

Each Big Star (1 center square and 8 points) can be made from 1 fat quarter with enough left over to make one Center Star and a Tiny Star. You could make the Big Star in block #2 and the Center Star in block #9, and one of the Tiny Stars in block #11 all from the same fat quarter, but no more

NOTE: Blocks 2, 3, 5, and 6 share a Quarter Star and so do blocks 4, 5, 7, and 8. You want to make sure that you use the same fabric for these pieces.

Block Types. There are 7 different block types in this quilt. Their placement is illustrated in the drawing below and the block types are shown in the other diagram.

Before you start cutting, make labels for your blocks and block components so you can keep track of all the pieces. Label 13 different Ziplocs with numbers 1 through 13 (these are for the 12 blocks in the quilt top plus the star block pieced into the border). Make additional Post-It labels for each individual block and stick them on the Ziploc bags. Use Wonder Clips or paper clips to keep the pieces for each type of star together if desired.

Bag #1 | Labels for Big Star 1 (BS1) and Tiny Star 1 (TS1)
Bag #2 | Labels for BS2 and Quarter Star 1 (QS1)
Bag #3 | Labels for BS3, Center Star 1 (CS1), and QS1
Bag #4 | Labels for BS4 and QS2
Bag #5 | Labels for BS5, QS1, and QS2
Bag #6 | Labels for BS6 and QS1
Bag #7 | Labels for BS7 and QS2
Bag #8 | Labels for BS8 and QS2
Bag #9 | Labels for BS9 and CS2
Bag #10 | Labels for BS10 and CS3
Bag #11 | Labels for BS11 and TS2
Bag #12| Labels for BS12 and Tiny Embedded Star (TES)
Bag #13 | Labels for Tiny Floating Star (TFS)

CUTTING DIRECTIONS
Cut the pieces for one block at a time. When cutting from fat quarters, cut the biggest pieces you need first. When cutting background fabric, cut a 5½” x WOF strip. Starting with the biggest pieces, cut all of your pieces from this strip. Save any leftover bits and use them for the smaller cuts as you go. You should have plenty of fabric.

BLOCK 1A | Big Star 1 + Tiny Star 1

BS1, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
TS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” x 2″ for points
Background (light), cut:

(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(3) 5″ squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Star
(4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Star

Paper Pattern for Tiny Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.

BLOCK 2B | Big Star 2 + Quarter Star 1

BS2, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points and (1) 2¾” square for center
Background (dark), cut:

(3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
(1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 3C | Big Star 3 + Center Star 1 + Quarter Star 1

BS3, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
CS1, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
QS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (1) 3½” square for points
Background (dark), cut:

(3) 5” squares for corners
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner
(1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points

BLOCK 4B | Big Star 4 + Quarter Star 2

BS4, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
Background (dark), cut:

(3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
(1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 5D | Big Star 5 + Quarter Star 1 + Quarter Star 2

BS5, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
Background (dark), cut:

(2) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(2) 3½” squares for Quarter Star points
(2) 2¾” squares for Quarter Star corners

BLOCK 6B | Big Star 6 + Quarter Star 1

BS1, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
Background (light), cut:

(3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
(1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 7B | Big Star 7 + Quarter Star 2

BS7, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
Background (dark), cut:

(3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
(1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 8B | Big Star 8 + Quarter Star 2

BS8, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
Background (dark), cut:

(3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
(1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 9E | Big Star 9 + Center Star 2

BS9, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for center block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
CS2, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
Background (dark), cut:

(4) 5″ squares for Big Star corners
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

BLOCK NUMBER 10E | Big Star 10 + Center Star 3

BS10, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for center block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
CS3, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
Background (light), cut:

(4) 5″ squares for Big Star corners
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

BLOCK NUMBER 11A | Big Star 11 + Tiny Star 2

BS11, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
TS2, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” x 2″ for points
Background (light), cut:

(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(3) 5″ squares for Big Star corner patches
(4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Star
(4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Star

Paper Pattern for Tiny Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.

BLOCK NUMBER 12F | Big Star 12 + Tiny Embedded Star

BS12, cut:

(3) 5” squares for Big Star center
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
(4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Embedded Star
(4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Embedded Star

TS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” squares for points
Background (dark), cut:

(4) 5” squares for corner patches
(4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

Paper Pattern for Tiny Embedded Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″

BORDERS + 13 G | Tiny Floating Star

TFS, cut (1) 3½” square for center and (4) 2½” squares for points
Background (light), cut:

(4) 2″ squares for Tiny Floating Star corners
(4) 2½” squares for Tiny Floating Star points

Light background, cut (4) 6½” x WOF strips
Dark background, cut (4) 6½” x WOF strips

BINDING: cut (8) 2½” x WOF strips

If you have cut and labeled all of those pieces you deserve a break. Step away from the table and the rotary cutter. Go outside and breath some fresh air. Gaze at the sky. Listen to the sounds that surround you. Breath.

Make sure you take a break after you cut your pieces.

SEWING DIRECTIONS
As much as you are tempted to create a production line, play it safe and make only one block at a time.

Block A

Block A {There are 2 A type blocks. Gather bags 1 and 11 plus foundation pattern for tiny stars.}

Tiny Star. Make 1 tiny star per block. Use the tutorial located {here} to paper foundation piece the tiny stars.
Big Star. Create Double Half Square Triangles (HSTs).

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 5½” background squares. Layer 1 background block with 1 star color block, right sides together. Sew ¼” on each side of the drawn diagonal line. Iron to set seams. Cut on drawn line to create 2 (HSTs). Gently iron seam allowances open. Trim to 5″ square. Repeat 3 times for a total of 8 HSTs.

Half Square Triangle Construction

Sew HSTs together in 4 sets of 2 so that the seam line marks the center of a large triangle of background fabric. Sew seam allowances open. Arrange pieces on desk or design wall in front of you to match drawing of block A.

Double HST

Piece A blocks together in rows, using the components you have created plus the background squares.

Big Star A, row 1

Big Star, row 2

Big Star, row 3

Iron seam allowances away from the double HSTs. Trim blocks to 18½” square. Create 2 of these blocks.

Block B

Block B {There are 5 B type blocks. Gather bags 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8.}

Quarter Star. Repeat process from A blocks to make 4 HSTs.Trim to 2¾” square. Join Quarter Star HSTs with background and print squares to make a Quarter Star unit as shown below. Trim to 5” square. Make a total of 5 Quarter Star units.

Quarter Star

Big Star. Repeat process as described for Block A replacing Tiny Star with Quarter Star when putting the block rows together. Be sure that the Quarter Star is on the outside corner of the block.

Block C

Block C. {There is only one type C block. Gather bag number 3.}

Repeat process for Quarter Star as described for Block B
Repeat process for double HSTs as described for Block A
Center Star. Repeat process for Big Star in Block A with smaller pieces. Use 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares for HSTs. Trim HSTs to 2¾” square. Arrange pieces to create a 9½” square star just like the big star but with 4 plain corners. Piece together the row components for block C:

Row 1: 5″ square background fabric; double HST with background triangle pointing down; 5″ x 5″ square background fabric.
Row 2: double HST with background triangle pointed to the right; 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ whole star block; double HST with background triangle pointing to the left
Row 3: Quarter Star with star fabric on bottom left edge; double HST with background triangle pointing up; 5″ x 5″ square background fabric

Block D

Block D. {There is only one type D block. Gather bag number 5.}

Repeat process for Block B replacing one 5″ background square with a Quarter Star
Rows 1 and 3 of this block are the same….but flipped.

Block E

Block E. {There are 2 E type blocks. Gather bags 9 and 10.}

Repeat process for Block C replacing Quarter Star with a 5” background square.

Block F

Block F. {There is only one type F block. Gather bag number 12.}

Make Tiny star as described in Block A
Using Tiny star and (3) 5″ square star fabric make 4 patch.
Trim 4 patch to 9½”’ square to make center of block
Repeat process as described in Block A, replacing tiny star in corner with a 5″ square of background fabric.

Block G. {There is only one type F block. Gather bag number 13.}

Repeat process for Big Star in Block A with smaller pieces.

Use 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for HSTs
Trim HSTs to 2″ x 2″

Arrange pieces to create a 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ star just like the big star but with 4 plain corners.

QUILT ASSEMBLY
Make sure all blocks are trimmed to 18½” square and join them together as shown below.

Block placement

Block placement

Be careful to keep the Quarter Stars pointing in the right directions. You want them to create whole stars when the blocks are sewn together.
Sew 4 rows of 3 blocks each
Iron seam allowances to the right in rows 1 and 3 and to the left in rows 2 and 4
Sew rows together to complete center of top

BORDERS

Gather setting star, block G, (4) 6½” x WOF strips light background, and (4) 6½” x WOF strips dark background
Measure quilt. It should be something like 54½” wide by 72½” long. Record measurements:

___________ wide
___________ long

Sew 2 light background strips together along short edge, creating a strip that is approximately 6 1/2″ x 84″
Trim newly created strip to 6 1/2″ x length of quilt
Sew to lighter/warmer side of quilt top. In the diagram it will be to the right.
Iron seam allowance towards the border.
Repeat process with dark background, sewing strip on the opposite side of the top.
Measure width of quilt and record _______________. (It should be close to 66 1/2″)
Sew remaining dark background strips together to make a strip that is 6 1/2″ x width of your quilt.
Sew to top of quilt.
Iron seam allowances towards the border.
Sew remaining light background strips and setting star block G together, with the star on one end to make a strip that is 6 1/2″ x width of your quilt.
Iron seam allowance between strip and block towards the strip.
Sew to bottom of quilt making sure that the star block falls to the left side, under the light background border.
Iron seam allowance towards the border.

Layer, baste, and quilt as desired.

I hope you enjoy making my quilt. Be sure to share it with the other Tops to Treasures quilters on the Tops to Treasures flickr group.

A fun 67″ x 85″ throw or topper for a star struck twin bed.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Winter Wonderland Peaks & Paddocks Quilt

May11

Have you ever found a fabric line that made you squeal right there in the middle of the fabric shop? Have you ever found one that made you giggle with glee and rush to share it with your best quilty friends? Winter Wonderland by Bunny Hill for Moda did that to me! I am beyond thrilled to be able to share my quilt made from it with all of you!

I love, love, love the snowmen and the trucks. What could be better than snowmen driving pick up trucks….perhaps a snugly quilt to make you laugh and keep you warm?!

detail of Winter Wonderland panel

Peaks & Paddocks is a simple quilt made from one, funky block.

I think I was thinking Snowball. I ended up with a center-less Shoo-flly. Either way, the block screams, “You got it wrong!” I wanted to find out what would happen if you made a bunch of blocks, all with the same irritating mistake in them, more on that later.

General Description of Quilt

16, 12” finished blocks in a 4 x 4 grid

2 borders

1” finished inner border with tiny half square triangle (hst) setting squares

4” finished outer border with large hst setting squares

As described the quilt finishes out at 59” x 59”

Fabric Requirements:

Blocks		What I used
Red on White	1 ¾ yards	Selections from fat quarter bundle SKU#2870AB
White on Red	½ yard
Red on Red	¼ yard
White on White	¼ yard
Inner Border + Binding	¾ yard	SKU#2875-15 red on red, twigs & berries
Outer Border	1 ¼ yards	SKU#2871-12 red on white, snowmen
Backing	3 ½ yards	SKU#2872-18 white on red, cars

Cutting Directions:

From Red on White

80, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares

Cut a total of 20, 4 ½” x 18” rectangles from fat quarters
Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares for a total of 80 squares

24, 5” x 5” squares for half square triangles (HSTS)

Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares

From White on Red

24, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS

Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares

From Red on Red

8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS

Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares

From White on White

8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS

Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares

From Inner Border Fabric

5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS
6, 2 ½” x wof strips for binding

From Outer Border Fabric

5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS

Sewing Directions:

Blocks

General description

Each 12” finished block (actually measures 12 ½” x 12 ½” to allow for ¼” seam allowances) is made from 9, 4 ½” x 4 ½” patches.

5 patches are 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
4 patches are pieced HSTS

The block is based on the classic Shoo-fly design with two exceptions.

There is not contrasting center to my block.
One of the corners is WRONG! If you looked at the picture above and thought, “Oh, Cindy drew this one wrong.” You are absolutely right; however, I did it on purpose. Over the last 11 months I have been exploring what happens when you make a bunch of blocks wrong on purpose. The results might surprise you. They did me. You can check them out under the “Oops” tab of my block of the month blog, Quilty Friends.

HSTS

Gather

24, 5″ x 5″ squares red on white fabric for traditional corners
24, 5″ x 5″ squares white on red fabric for traditional corners
8, 5″ x 5″ squares red on red fabric for WRONG corners
8, 5″ x 5″ squares white on white fabric for WRONG corners

On the wrong side of all squares with white background draw a diagonal line.
Layer 1 red on white square with 1 white on red square, right sides together
Sew 1/4 from each side of drawn line…yes, sew twice.

Cut on drawn line.
Being careful not to warp triangles, gently iron triangles open…into squares.
Iron seam allowances open.
You now have 2, HSTS
Trim HSTS to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square
Repeat process with all red on white and white on red squares for a total of 48 HSTS for traditional corner patches
Repeat process with all red on red and white on white squares for a total of 16 HSTS for WRONG corner patches

BLOCKS

Gather

48 traditional corner patch HSTS
16 WRONG corner patch HSTS
80, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ red on white squares

Making one block at a time, arrange 9 pieces in front of you to match drawing.
Be careful to get the red triangles oriented correctly.

Sew patches together to make rows

Row 1: traditional HST with RED down and to the right; red on white square; traditional HST with RED down and to the left.
Row 2: red on white square; red on white square; red on white square
Row 3: WRONG HST with Red down and to the left; red on white square; traditional HST with Red UP and to the left.

Iron seam allowances towards the red on white square in rows 1 and 3
Iron seam allowances away from the center in row 2
Sew rows together to make block
Trim block to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ square.
Repeat 15 times for a total of 16 blocks.

Quilt Top

Gather

16 blocks

Arrange blocks in a 4 x 4 grid being careful to orient them so that the WRONG HST corners touch. (see arrows in layout diagram above)
Sew sets of 4 block rows.
With the WRONG HST on the side closest to you, iron all seam allowances in the same direction.,

Sew rows together to make center of quilt.

NOTE: If you ironed the seam allowances as suggested, the allowances will snuggle together when you flip rows 2 and 4 to orient them correctly.

Iron seam allowances in the same direction.
Measure quilt and record below.

It should measure something like 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″.
________ wide
________ long

Borders

Inner Border

Gather

5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
2, 2” x 2” squares inner border fabric
2, 2” x 2” squares outer border fabric

Setting Squares

Using method described above make 4, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ HSTS from 2″ x 2″ squares

Edge pieces

Cut 1, 1 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
Sew 1, 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 1 1/2″ x wof strip.
Iron seam allowances open.
Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top. They should be very close to 1 1/2″ x 48 1/2″ each.

Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
Iron seam allowances toward the border.
Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces. See diagram below.

Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
Iron seam allowances toward borders.
Measure quilt and record below.

It should measure 50 1/2″ x 50 1/2″
_______wide
_______long

Outer Border

Gather

5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
2, 5” x 5” squares outer border fabric
2, 5” x 5” squares inner border fabric

Setting Squares

Using the method described above make 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ HSTS from 5″ x 5″ squares

Edge pieces

Cut 1, 4 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
Sew 1, 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 4 1/2″ x wof strip.
Iron seam allowances open.
Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top. They should be very close to 4 1/2″ x 50 1/2″ each.

Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
Iron seam allowances towards the border.
Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces. See diagram below.

Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
Iron seam allowances toward borders.

Layer and quilt as desired.

I quilted mine with white thread in Christmas Snow by Anne Bright

detail from Winter Wonderland panel

I hope you enjoy my pattern. Please share a picture of your completed quilt with me! I have a Tops to Treasures Flickr group just for that purpose! Come join the group.

Stop by my blog, Tops to Treasures to win one of the wonderful Winter Wonderland panels!

Cindy Sharp
{www.topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

All Good Gifts Quilt

Apr3

Hello. Cindy Sharp from Tops to Treasures here again. I am excited about this quilt for a number of reasons, but mostly because its inspiration stemmed from the loving heart of my oldest son. Each step along the way was marked by the love of someone offering a good gift.

Good gift #1: Each person my son meets becomes a candidate for a quilt from mom. Really, he has no qualms about asking me to make one. I’ve made them for coaches, room mates, and class fund raisers. This time he asked me to make one for a pregnant friend.

Good gift #2: I was visiting with the ladies in the sample room at Moda and they suggested this line of fabric. “Mixed Bag” by Studio M is fun and funky, AND comes in brushed cotton….perfect for a snuggly baby quilt. Chelair tossed me a fat quarter stack and said “Send us the pattern when it is done!”

Good gift #3: I started Tops to Treasures in 2006 as a long arm quilting business. It pays for my quilty habit and helps my boys with college expenses. Sometimes I let my friends come and use the machine for the cost of the materials. (Honestly I love having company during the day.) Jeanne was not satisfied with that arrangement. Her solution….minion labor!! Jeanne volunteered to trade piecing for long arm time. I’ve seen her piecing…not going to turn that offer down. (Thank you my friend for piecing this quilt for me.)

So it went….one good gift leading to another. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

The horrible truth is that I am a bit of an OCDC geek. I love things to be orderly and in order. It makes me happy to see books arranged by subject and author on my shelf, earrings neatly paired in little cubbies, my Lego blocks sorted by size and color, directions that are explicit and precise, you get where I’m going.

The opportunity to make a rainbow quilt makes me “Happy, happy, happy!” just like the fabrics that inspired my design, Mixed Bag by Studio M.

All Good Gifts is a simple quilt made of 42, 8″ x 8″ finished blocks, set in a lattice of 2″ sashing with corner stones. The construction is straight forward and requires no special tools, or skills. The challenge lies in the selection and placement of color. With Roy G. Biv helping us, this should not be a problem.

The most challenging aspect of this quilt is the placement of colors. The picture below assigns a number to each diagonal row. All of the blocks in each row are identical. Use these row numbers and reference the following chart to determine how much fabric you need.

There is enough fabric in a fat quarter stack to make the blocks of this quilt; however, you need to purchase an extra fat quarter for the frame in each row that has more than 5 blocks. (Specifically, rows 1 and 2. They each have 6 blocks.)

In my quilt I chose to repeat the frame fabric used in row 1 (a long row) in rows 4, 9, and 12. This required additional yardage as well.

When making your fabric selections the following information is helpful:

There are 12 diagonal rows –

12 different colors for centers – choose bright or deep tones.

You can repeat colors like I did – it uses less fabric or choose 12 different ones….just keep them in rainbow order. That is where my friend Mr. Roy G. Biv comes in. (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.) I put red in the middle and worked out from both sides to blue.
You can cut 16 centers from one fat quarter

12 different colors for frames – choose prints that help to blend from one center color to the next.

I repeated a the multi on white. Because it has most of the colors in it, transition is natural. You don’t have to do that…I was just being lazy.
You can cut 5 sets of frame pieces from one fat quarter
Rows 1 & 2 require 1/4 yard extra to cut all of the frame pieces.

	Yardage Required	What I used
Blocks	FQ Stack ^* *additional yardage needed for rows with more than 5 blocks	Mixed Bag by Studio M
Frames^*	1/4 yd (row 1) 1/4 yd (row 2) 1/4 yd for duplicate frames (rows 9, 12)	SKU#32860-11 SKU#32865-19 SKU#32860-11
Setting Squares	½ yd	SKU#32862-18
Sashing	1 3/4 yds	SKU#9900-97
Border	1 ½ yds	SKU#32865-19
Binding	1 yd	SKU#32862-18
Backing	5 1/4 yds

12 sandwich sized zip lock baggies

One very happy, 76″ x 86″ rainbow quilt to snuggle under or gift to someone you love.

Cutting Directions:

Before you begin cutting, it may be helpful to create a “swatch page” for your project. I’ve created a page for you, it lists all of the pieces you need to cut (just like the cutting chart) plus it has a column for swatches. Print this file Swatch Page with my compliments. In the column headed “SWATCH” cut and paste a small sample of the fabrics you want to use for that row. It will help keep everything organized – (read – this is so you know what you are doing when you finally get back to cutting out the project after the finishing 101 things that draw you away from your favorite hobby)

Blocks

Cut the pieces for the blocks in each row as outlined in the chart below.
I highly recommend that you keep your pieces segregated in zip lock baggies. One baggie for each row.
Centers –

Cutting a 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from a fat quarter will yield 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares
For rows with more than 4 blocks, cut 2, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips.

Frames –

Cutting a 2 1/2″ x 18″ strip from a fat quarter will yield

2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for top and bottom OR
4, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for sides

For 5 complete frames

Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from a fat quarter
Sub-cut 3 strips into4, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each, for a total of 12rectangles. (You will have two extra)
Sub-cut 5 strips into 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for a total of 10 rectangles.

Row	# of Blocks	4 ½” x 4 ½” Centers	8 ½” x 2 ½” Frame Top & Bottom	4 ½” x 2 ½” Frame Sides
1	6	6	12	12
2	6	6	12	12
3	5	5	10	10
4	4	4	8	8
5	3	3	6	6
6	2	2	4	4
7	1	1	2	2
8	5	5	10	10
9	4	4	8	8
10	3	3	6	6
11	2	2	4	4
12	1	1	2	2

Setting Squares

56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

Cut 4, 2 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
Sub-cut 3 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 48 squares
Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 56.

Sashing

97, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles

Cut 7, 8 1/2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 6, strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 96 rectangles
Cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle from the remaining strip to complete 97.

Border

Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips

Binding

Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Break Time!

I sure hope that was better than I am thinking it is. Right now it is “clear as mud” even to me. I suspect I am tired from all of that cutting….and maybe you are too.

Step away from the project. Have some fun! Go for a walk. Clear your head. That is where I am headed.

Thank you God! That’s better. I’ve reread the directions….I think it is the best that I can do. If, however, you still have trouble understanding what you need to do feel free to contact me at cindy@topstotreasures.com. I am more than happy to help.

Sewing Directions:

Block – the goal is 42, 8″ x 8″ finished blocks

Use the “Swatch Page” to remind yourself how many of each color to make.
To make one block –

Gather

1, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ center square
2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ top & bottom rectangles
2, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ edge rectangles

Sew 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ side rectangle to opposite sides of the 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ center square.
Iron seam allowance towards the center square
Sew 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ top/bottom rectangle to long edges of pieced unit.
Iron seam allowances towards the top/bottom rectangles.
Trim to 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″

Repeat process 41 times to complete 42 blocks needed for project.

Sashing

Gather

97, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles
56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting squares
42, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ blocks

Block Rows

Gather

49, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles
42, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ blocks

Sort your blocks into 7 groups of 6 blocks each, one group for each horizontal row of the quilt.

Using the Swatch Page row numbers as a reference for color placement (#s designating the diagonal rows in the quilt) your horizontal rows (letters designating) should contain the following blocks:

A – 1, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
B – 2, 1, 8, 9, 10, 11
C – 3, 2, 1, 8, 9, 10
D – 4, 3, 2, 1, 8, 9
E – 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 8
F – 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
G – 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2

Add 7, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles to each pile.
Being careful to keep the blocks in the right order, sew 1 sashing rectangle between each block in the row.
Iron seam allowances towards the blocks.

Sashing Rows

Gather

56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting squares
48, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles

Sew 48 sets of 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting square, + 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangle (they will look like matchsticks)
Iron seam allowances towards the setting square
Sew sets together to make 8 rows of 6 matchsticks each, tail to head.
Iron seam allowances towards the setting squares.
Sew 1 setting square to the stick end of each row.
Iron seam allowances towards the setting squares.

Top

Gather

8, sashing rows
7, block rows

Sew rows together as illustrated in the diagrams.

Border

Gather

Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips

Sew 4 sets of 2 strips each together, short edge to short edge.
Irons seam allowances open
Sew 1 set to each long edge of top.
Iron seam allowances towards the border
Trim excess
Sew 1 set to each short edge of top
Iron seam allowances towards the border
Trim excess

Finish – layer and quilt as desired!

I quilted mine in “Going in Circles” by Anne Bright.
I used “Pearl” thread by Signature on the top of my quilt
I used “Cleopatra” thread by King Tut/Superior for the back and for the embroidered label.

I would love to see your quilt! Send me a picture of it when you are done and/or feel free to add it to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp
{www.topstotreasures.com}

Tiles Quilt

Mar3

Hello, my name is Cindy Sharp. I am the person behind Tops to Treasures. I am thrilled to be back with Moda’s Bake Shop today…presenting my original pattern, “Tiles.”

The name isn’t very flashy, but I could think of no better word to describe the effect of this pattern. It takes me back to a time when things were made for both beauty and function, when floors were more than something to walk on, and back splashes did more than protect the kitchen wall.

Using the Printemps line of fabric by 3 Sisters elevates my tiles to a whole other level. These carefully pieced blocks no longer belong on a floor or wall, but in a garden filled with life and light and fresh air. It is wholly appropriate that this line was given the name Printemps. French for springtime, the name delivers all that it promises.

The drawings in my pattern feature a different line of fabric, also by 3 Sisters. Vin du Jour provided the heady bouquet of color that inspired my pattern.

In either fabric line the quilt is fantastic. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Tiles is made from 30 blocks that finish at 12″ square. There are 15 blocks that turn one way and 15 blocks that turn the other. You can see it in the quilt if you look for mirror images. To get a better understanding look at the drawings below. Pay close attention to the rotation of the edge pieces. In the picture on the left the golden arm is reaching toward the right….the edge patch arms all reach in the same rightward direction. (Is rightward a word? Did I just make that up?!) In the other picture they all reach toward the left.

Right Reaching Block

Left Reaching Block

Each of the 30 blocks is made from 9 patches. I like the center patch the best! It is just a 4 1/2″ square!

Corner Patch

The corner patches are straight forward as well. They are pieced, but the directions are the same for every corner patch in the quilt.

Left Reaching Edge Patch

The edge blocks are the tricky part. Due to the restrictions of standard markings on my ruler (not just mine, yours are marked the same way) I chose to foundation piece this portion of the block. Please don’t be turned off by this decision. I’ve written a tutorial to help you with this type of construction. The process is as straight forward as that used in the corner patches…it is just different. Time to grow my quilty friends. You can do this! If you have any trouble understanding the process please feel free to contact me. I’d love to walk you through it.

I designed Tiles to take advantage of dark and light colors in a fabric line. There are several in the Moda line up that would work. My drawings are all done using Vin du Jour by 3 Sisters. It is a striking quilt when done in just a few colors.

My sample quilt is made using Printemps also by 3 Sisters. This line is softer. Where Vin du Jour is dramatic and bold, Printemps is romantic and subtle. Using a softer pallet will create more of a blended quilt.

What ever you decide keep in mind that you need approximately the same amount of yardage for either option.

For a scrappy quilt, like mine, use the fat quarter equivalents listed in parenthesis. There should be enough fabric in a fat quarter bundle to obtain the variety that you need, however, some fabric lines lean more heavily towards lights or darks. If this is the case with the one you have chosen remember to supplement your bundle purchase with enough yardage to complete the light/dark requirements.

	Yardage Required (#FQs)	SKU	What I used
Dark	1 1/4 yds (5)	44031-15 44037-15 44036-15 44030-15 44030-25	5 reds from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Light	1 1/4 yds (5)	44033-12 44032-22 44031-12 44030-22 44030-12	5 yellows from Printemps by 3Sisters
Lattice A	1 yd (4)	44032-23 44031-13 44036-13 44030-13 44035-23	5 pinks from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Lattice B	1 yd (4)	44037-14 44031-14 44032-24 44030-24 44030-14	5 aquas from Printemps by 3 Sisters
Background	2 3/4 yds	44036-41	tiny pink floral on cream
Inner Border	½ yd	44303-24	tone on tone aqua
Outer Border	1 1/4 yds	44033-12	medium floral on yellow
Binding	3/4 yd	44037-15	white diamonds on red
Backing	5 yds	44030-12	large floral on yellow

12 Sandwich sized zip lock baggies: To make your P.I.G. (project in a sack) easier to corral I highly recommend placing your pieces in zip lock baggies as you cut them. You will need 12 baggies to do this. Place all 30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ dark squares in one bag, all 120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ dark squares in another bag, etc. If you use the kind that has a freezer label built into it you can write yourself a note as to the size and purpose of the piece. (I didn’t bag up my borders or binding.)
60 paper copies of each page on the following file: Edge Patch Pattern You should have 60 of each of 2 pages for a total of 120 pages.

Before you print 60 copies

Please make sure that the solid lines forming the right angles measure 4″
Mark the pattern pieces of the original copy so that you know which piece goes to which type of block. (This will be important if your piles get knocked over.)
Consider making a few extra copies….just in case.

Cutting Directions:

Darks

30, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares for center of blocks

If from yardage –

Cut 4, 4 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
Sub-cut 3 strips into 9, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 27 squares
Sub-cut 3, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 30.

If from fat quarters

Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips

2, 4 1/2″ x 18″strips from each of 3 fat quarters,
+ 1, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from the 2 remaining for a total of 8 strips

Sub-cut strips into 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares each for a total of 32. (you will have two extra.)

120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for corner patches of blocks

If from yardage –

Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each for a total of 112 squares
Sub-cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 120

If from fat quarters –

Cut 18, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips

4, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from each of 3 fat quarters
+ 3, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from the 2 remaining for a total of 18 strips

Sub-cut 17 strips into 7, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 119 squares
Sub-cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square from the last strip to complete 120

Lights

60, 5″ x 5″ squares for corner patches of blocks

If from yardage –

Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 7 strips into 8, 5″ x 5″ squares each for a total of 56 squares
Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 60

If from fat quarters –

Cut 15, 5″ x 22″ strips

3, 5″ x 22″ strips from each of 5 fat quarters

Sub-cut 4, 5″ x 5″ squares from each strip for a total of 60

Lattice A

60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2

Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles

60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2

Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60

Lattice B

60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2

Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut strips into 12, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 60 rectangles

60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2

Cut 3, 6 1/4″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 2 strips into 21, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles each for a total of 42 rectangles
Cut 18, 2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 60

Background

60, 4″ x 4″ squares for corner patches of blocks

Cut 6, 4″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 10, 4″ x 4″ squares from each strip for a total of 60 squares.

120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1

Cut 8, 4 1/2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120

120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3

Cut 8, 2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 7 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles each for a total of 112 rectangles
Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120

120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1

Cut 6, 3 1/2″ x wof strips
Sub-cut 5 strips into 21, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 105 rectangles
Cut 15, 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles from the remaining strip to complete 120

Inner Border

Cut 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips

Outer Border

Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips

Binding

Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Paper patterns – cut triangles apart just outside the dotted lines.

Break Time!

If you just made it through all of that cutting, you really do deserve a break. Just writing the instructions wore me out. Put down the rotary cutter for the evening, put your feet up, and enjoy a relaxing beverage….a massage probably wouldn’t hurt either.

Sewing Directions:

Corner Patch

Corner Patches – Does anyone else think this block looks like an Angry Bird?! You need to make 120, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.

Gather baggies containing –

120, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabrics
60, 5″ x 5″ squares light fabrics
60, 4″ x 4″ squares background fabric

When working with triangles, I like to leave things square as long as I can. Making these patches two at a time accomplished that perfectly.
Gather

2, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares dark fabric
1, 5″ x 5″ square light fabric
1, 4″ x 4″ square background fabric

Sub-cut the 4″ square of background fabric diagonally twice – making 4 small triangles
With right sides together, align right angle of 1 small triangle with right angle of small square.

Corner step 1

Sew pieces together.
Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle. Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
With right sides together, align right angle of second small triangle with opposite right angle of small square so that the “bunny ears” intersect.

Corner step 2

Sew pieces together.
Carefully iron seam allowance towards the triangle. Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
You should now have a large triangle made of three pieces.
Sub-cut 5″ x 5″ square light fabric diagonally, once – making two large triangles.
With right sides together, center pieced triangle on top of large triangle, aligning the hypotenuses. Note – the pieced triangle is a little bit smaller than the large one. It is supposed to be this way.

Corner step 3

Iron seam allowance towards the large triangle. Be careful not to warp the triangle shape.
Trim patch to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square.
Repeat with remaining pieces to make a second patch.
Repeat 59 more times to make required 120 corner patches.

Left Reaching Edge Patch

Edge Patches – This patch looks like a Y to me. You need to make 60 Right facing and 60 left facing, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (actual size) patches.

Gather

Lattice A fabric

60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2

Lattice B fabric

60, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A2
60, 6 1/4″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B2

Background fabric

120, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for edge piece A1
120, 2 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece A3
120, 3 1/2″ x 2″ rectangles for edge piece B1

Paper foundation patterns

60, right reaching
60, left reaching

Use instructions in Paper Piecing tutorial to complete 120 edge patches. I highly recommend that you keep your left reaching and your right reaching patches in separate piles.
NOTE:

You can easily tell a right reaching from a left reaching by setting the block in front of you with the largest triangle closest to you. Thus situated, look at the long arm of the Y. It reaches up and to the ______.
Paper Piecing is done “upside down” do not worry if your left blocks look like right blocks and your right blocks look like left blocks. As long as the group called left all look like each other and different from the group called right you are doing okay.

Blocks

Use the pictures for each block
Make one block at a time.
Lay your patches out in front of you and make sure that…

The largest triangle in the edge patch always touches the center patch.
The Lattice fabrics appear to continue through the block. It kind of looks like four sticks arranged end to edge to create a large square on point. The opposite sides of this square are the same color.
If the lattice sticks look broken, or you can’t get them to line up correctly, you probably have a mixture of left and right reaching edge patches.
The small dark squares always touch the large dark square in their interior corners.

Right Reaching Block

15, Right Reaching

Gather

15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
60, corner patches
60, right reaching edge patches

Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″

Left Reaching Block

15, Left Reaching

Gather

15, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares dark fabric
60, corner patches
60, left reaching edge patches

Use tips outlined above to construct 15 blocks
Trim blocks to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″

The Top

Center

Gather

15 Right Reaching Blocks
15 Left Reaching Blocks

On a design wall (Read shower curtain, large bed, floor if you do not have a formal design wall. Really, these things work just as well, if not a little more awkwardly.) arrange you blocks.

Rows 1, 3, and 5 are all Right, Left, Right, Left, Right
Rows 2, 4, and 6 are all Left, Right, Left, Right, Left
All blocks are arranged so that Lattice A and Lattice B fabrics are oriented the same way. In my picture you can see, all of the yellow sticks are on top and bottom of the blocks and the grey sticks are left and right. Yours should be this way too.
If you are having a hard time getting the lattice to line up correctly you probably have the wrong kind of block. Make sure the block is reaching in a different direction than the one you are placing it next to. It is easy to do this by laying the blocks on top of each other. You can’t miss the differences this way.

Sew blocks into rows.
Iron seam allowances towards the right reaching blocks
Sew rows together to complete center.
It should measure 60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″.

Inner Border

Gather

60 1/2″ x 72 1/2″ center
8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips of inner border fabric

Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
Iron seam allowance open.
Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center
Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
Trim excess
Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
Trim excess
Your top should now measure 62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″

Outer Border

Gather

62 1/2″ x 74 1/2″ center
Cut 8, 5 1/2″ x wof strips outer border fabric

Sew 4, sets of 2, wof strips together skinny end to skinny end.
Iron seam allowance open.
Sew long skinny strip to top and bottom of center
Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
Trim excess
Sew long skinny strip to each side of center
Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
Trim excess
Your top should now measure 72 1/2″ x 84 1/2″

Layer and quilt as desired. I used a pattern called Chantilly Lace by Anne Bright with Praline thread by Signature.

I’d love to see your finished quilt. Please send me a picture, or add it yourself to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

A 72″ x 84″ quilt to be proud of. This one will knock your socks off when it is finished.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Don’t forget the Paper foundation patterns
.

Bedazzled Quilt

Jan16

As I am preparing this pattern for publication much of the United States of America is frozen. There are even rumors to the effect that Niagara Falls has frozen. That’s cold. The next couple of months is bound to be filled with stories of cold and more cold as we nestle in for winter. However, that doesn’t mean we have to be cold or gloomy in the wet and grey.

Where I live, in North Texas, it doesn’t usually get very cold for very long. Our winters last a week here and a week there, buffeting us with cold winds and overly bright sunshine. Even so there are often long stretches of gray wet days. This quilt will keep me smiling well into spring.

Me and My Sister’s latest line “Hubba Hubba” is the perfect remedy for a cold wet winter. Their cheerful pallet and designs are guaranteed to make me giggle and set me to dreaming about spring. Arranged in a happy rainbow and pieced into twinkling off set stars this quilt is perfect for an evening of silly movies and pop corn.

Focus Fabrics

25 fat quarters – 5 each of 5 colorways (Hubba Hubba by Me & My Sister)

Supporting Fabrics

2¾ yards background & inner border fabric (Bella White | 9900-97)
1 yard dominant solid (one sashing stripe and binding) (Bella Amelia Blue | 9900-167)
3 – ¼ yard cuts for sashing stripes (Bella Solids Kiwi | 9900-189, Bermuda | 9900-269, and Yellow | 9900-024)
4½ yards backing (Tiny Daises in Blue | 22216-16)
Miscellaneous fat quarters from bundle for pieced outer border

Supplies

25 large sandwich-sized zip lock baggies – will make it easier to keep your gazillion pieces organized
Sand paper – I used a 3 2/3″ x 9″ sheet of fine grade paper that I stole from my husband’s stash in the garage. Place your pieces on top of it when drawing sewing lines, the fabric will not move.

Bedazzled is made from a total of 25 10″ finished blocks (they actually measure 10½” x 10½” before you sew them into your quilt), set in a 5 x 5 grid with sashing on two sides. The sashing is offset from row to row to create a twinkling effect. For added twinkle I’ve sorted the focus fabric line by colors and highlighted them with random negative blocks. What can be better than candy colored rainbows of stars?!

NOTE: WOF = width of fabric

CUTTING
From background fabric, cut:

9 strips measuring 3″ x WOF; subcut into 116 – 3″ x 3″ squares
2 strips measuring 10½” x WOF

From 1 strip cut 14 – 3″ x 10½” rectangles
From the 2nd strip, cut an additional 11 – 3″ x 10½” rectangles
From the remnant of the 2nd strip, cut 4 – 5½” x 5½” squares

6 strips measuring 5½” x WOF

From 5 strips, cut into 14 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles (total of 70 rectangles)
From the 6th strip, cut an additional 6 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles (for a total of 76 rectangles)
From the remnant of the 6th strip, cut 1 – 5½” x 5½” square

Set aside remaining background fabric for the inner border. You will need 8 WOF strips but you will need to have the blocks pieced and assembled so you can calculate the dimensions. I will walk you through this step below.

From 25 fat quarters (FQs):

Select one FQ from each of the 5 colorways to be a negative block. These fabrics will become backgrounds instead of stars. From each of these negative FQs, cut:

4 – 3″ x 3″ squares
4 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles

From each of the remaining 20 FQs, cut:

1 – 5½” x 5½” square
8 – 3″ x 3″ squares

Select a 26th FQ that is more more like your initial background fabric, but not solid. From this FQ, cut:

4 – 3″ x 3″ squares
4 – 3″ x 5½”” rectangles
1 – 3″ x 10½” rectangle (for 1/4 sashing on one block)

From remaining (and randomly chosen) FQs, cut:

60 – 5½” x 5½” squares for the pieced outer border

From each of the sashing solids, cut:

2 strips measuring 3″ x WOF (a total of 8 strips)

From binding fabric, cut:

8 strips measuring 2½” x WOF

Break time. Really, if you have just cut all of those pieces out it is time to take a break. Pour yourself a glass of something cool and sparkling, take a walk in the fresh air, clear your mind. That is where I am headed right now….and I haven’t even cut out the fabric yet, I just wrote about it.

PIECING

Block kits

The directions are written as if you were making one block at a time. When I want my projects to be more unified (less scrappy) I make them this way. It is easier to keep all of the same colors together. If you want a more scrappy project make all of the flying goose units at the same time, randomly selecting squares and rectangles.
It might be helpful to sort your stacks of fabric into block kits containing the following pieces

1, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ square for star center
4, 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles background for edges
4, 3″ x 3″ squares background for corners
8, 3″ x 3″ squares for star points
1, 3″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles for 1/4 sashing

Not all of the backgrounds are the same color. Your sets should break down as follows

5 kits

stars pieces cut from regular background fabric
backgrounds are cut from fqs
1/4 sashing cut from regular background fabric

19 kits

stars cut from fqs
background pieces are cut from the regular background
1/4 sashing cut from regular background fabric

1 kit

star pieces are cut from a fq
background pieces are cut from a fq
1/4 sashing cut from fq

Block construction

The blocks in this quilt finish at 10″ square. (10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ actual before sewn into the top)
Each block is made from 4 flying goose units, 4 small square patches, and 1 large square patch.
Before you call the block done you will also add sashing to 1/4 of it.
For each of the 25 kits you need to complete the following steps (Yes, I have recycled the pictures from another bakeshop project that I did. The blocks are constructed the same way as the blocks in Midwinter Cozy. They are however, larger. The fabrics pictured in the diagrams are from Midwinter Reds by Minick and Simpson)

Flying Goose Units

Gather from kit

8, 3″ x 3″ squares
4, 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 3″ square (Get out the sand paper. Place your fabric wrong side up on top of the paper. The sandy grit will keep your piece from moving as you draw on it.)
With right sides together align one square atop one rectangle.
Sew along the line but just to the outside. (on the side toward the smallest part of the rectangle

Iron flap open – pushing the triangle lying over the larger part of the rectangle up and over the seam.
Trim the excess fabric from the back of the patch, or leave it there to help your patch keep it’s shape. The choice is yours.

You now have a rectangle with one corner different.
Repeat the process on the opposite side of triangle.

Be careful to get the seam going in the right direction. It should be perpendicular to the seam you already made.

Trim unit back to 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangle
Again, you choose to trim the seam allowances or not.
Repeat 3 times for a total of 4 units.

Block

Gather

4 flying goose units
4, 3″ x 3″ background squares
1,5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ star square

Sew Rows

Top and bottom

Sew patches together as shown

Iron seam allowances towards the background squares

Center

Sew patches together as shown

Iron seam allowances towards the center

Sew rows together to form square.
Iron seam allowances away from the center block

NOTE: If you chose to not to trim the extra fabric from your goose units you will need to clip the seams to make them lie flat. Clip the seam allowance ONLY, at the 4 intersections. This will allow you to iron the bulky seam allowances to remain flat. They will fall away from the goose units.)

Trim final block to 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″

Add the 1/4 sashing piece, 3″ x 10 1/2″ to one side of the block
Iron seam allowance towards the sashing
Repeat process 24 more times for 25 blocks.

The top

Rows

Gather

25, 10 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ blocks (5 in each color way)

Arrange blocks.

This is where a design wall comes in handy. If you don’t have one, no worries, I don’t have one either (no walls in my studio…really). You can use the floor, or your bed, or even the curtain on your shower. You just need a place where you can lay out your pieces.
Once you are satisfied with the layout take a quick picture with your phone. This will do two things for you

It will help you remember where the pieces go. AND
It will give you a different perspective – one last peak at the arrangment to make sure you like it.

The blocks should be arranged in 5 rows of 5 with all of the same colorway in the same row.

Alternate rows should have alternate the side of the block where the 1/4 sashing is.

If your rows differ in length – they shouldn’t, but sometimes things happen – you can trim them to equal lengths. Do this on the 1/4 sashing end of the row. (The stars are supposed to be offset, no one is going to notice if an end 1/4 sashing is slightly smaller.)
Sew blocks together to make rows
Iron seam allowances towards the 1/4 sashing.

Sashing

Gather

5 rows with 5 blocks each
8 – 3″ x WOF strips from solids (2 of each color)

Sew solid strips together in matching sets.
Iron seam allowances open

Sew solids rows between pieced rows.
Irons seam allowances towards the solid rows.

Inner Border

The purpose of this inner border is to make the pieced outer border fit the pieced center.
The exact dimensions of the border will vary a little bit from one sewist to another.
Record the length and width of your top below.

Length = ___________ (mine was 60″) b
Width = ___________ (mine was 61 1/2″) a

Outer Border

Gather 60, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares
Randomly sew 4 sets of blocks

2 rows of 14
2 rows of 16

Irons seam allowances open.
Record the length of each row

14 block row = _____________ (mine was 64) A
16 block row = _____________ (mine was 72 1/2″) B

Inner Border

The finished width of the inner border needs to be the difference between the length one side of the top and the corresponding length of the outer border, divided by 2 (because we want it evenly spaced on two sides of the quilt). Add 1/2″ to this number to get the width you need to cut your strips.

Please don’t be turned off …. this is easy math… you can do it.
For the short side (labeled A and a in the picture) you need to figure out x.

NOTE: A does NOT include the corner squares. This is the short side of the quilt.
A – a = x = the finished width of this strip

mine was 64 – 61.5 = 2.5

(x/2)+ .5″ = the width to cut your inner border

mine was 2.5 / 2 + .5 = 1.25 +.5 = 1.75″

Cut 4 strips this wide x WOF

For the long side (labeled B and b in the picture) you need to figure out y.

B does include the corner squares. They are already attached to your strip, but they do not effect the width needed for your inner border. Subtract 9.5″ from B.
(B – 9.5″) – b = y = the finished width of this strip

mine was (72.5 – 9.5) – 60 = 3

(y/2) + .5″= the width to cut your inner border

mine was 3/2 + .5 = 1.5 + .5 = 2″

Cut 4 strips this wide x WOF

If you have any trouble figuring this out for your quilt please contact me. I would be glad to help you.

Attach inner borders

Short sides first.
Iron seam allowances towards the inner border

Attach outer borders

Short sides first
Iron seam allowances towards the inner borders.

Layer and quilt as desired.

Mine was long arm quilted from edge to edge using “Cortney b2b” by Anne Bright.

One super fun quilted throw measuring approximately 71″ x 73″.

It is the perfect place to sit and gather giggles with your favorite girl. I’d love to see your finished quilt. Please send me a picture, or add it to the Tops to Treasures flickr group.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Midwinter Cozy Quilt

Oct3

Red is the color of toy wagons and rubber balls. It is the color of roses and fire trucks. These things are always red in my mind. Even so, there is room in my mind for wagons, rubber balls, roses, and fire trucks of other colors. However, when winter rolls around and the days get long and dark I always reach for my red sweater. Midwinter Reds by Minick and Simpson packs all of the warmth and spirit of my favorite red sweater into a fabric line. It fills my heart with memories of cold days and warm ginger bread, with visions of hearth and home. It is a natural for this tiny quilt/toy/table topper. I hope you home is filled with all of the warmth and joy that midwinter red has to offer.

Stars and Backgrounds

8, 2 1/2″ Candy Charm Packs + 1, 5″ Charm Pack for a very scrappy look
OR 1 layer cake

Inner Border & Binding

1/2 yard (I used tone on tone paisley in red SKU#14766-13)

Outer Border

1/2 yard (I used red floral on tan, SKU #14761-16)

Backing

1 yard (I used red dots on tan, SKU14767-16)

Cutting Directions:

Stars – If you are using a layer cake rather than the charm packs you can cut all of the required pieces from 1, 10″ x 10″ square.

cut 12 sets of

8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares (if not taken one each from the candy charm packs) for points.
1, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square (from matching 5″ charm) for centers.

Backgrounds – using either 3, 5″ charms or 1 layer cake square

cut 12 sets of

4, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles for edges.
4, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for corners.

Borders

Inner

cut 4, 1″ x width of fabric (wof) strips

Outer

cut 4, 3″ x wof strips

Binding

cut 4, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Sewing Directions:

The directions are written as if you were making one block at a time. When I want my projects to be more unified (less scrappy) I make them this way. It is easier to keep all of the same colors together. If you want a more scrappy project make all of the flying goose units at the same time, randomly selecting squares and rectangles.

Flying Goose Units

Gather

8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
4, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 2 1/2″ square
With right sides together align one square atop one rectangle.
Sew along the line but just to the outside. (on the side toward the smallest part of the rectangle

Iron flap open – pushing the triangle lying over the larger part of the rectangle up and over the seam.
At this point you can trim the excess fabric from the back of the patch; however, I leave mine in. It gives me a little more control over the bias edge that tend to make triangles warp, and it make the points stick out just a little more in the finished product.

You now have a rectangle with one corner different.
Repeat the process on the opposite side of triangle.

Be careful to get the seam going in the right direction. It should be perpendicular to the seam you already made.

Trim unit back to 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle
Again, you choose to trim the seam allowances or not.
Repeat 3 times for a total of 4 units.

Block

Gather

4 flying goose units
4, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ background squares
1, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ star square

Sew Rows

Top and bottom

Sew patches together as shown

Iron seam allowances towards the background squares

Center

Sew patches together as shown

Iron seam allowances towards the center

Sew rows together to form square.
Iron seam allowances away from the center block. This will require a good deal of steam if you left the extra fabric on the goose patches.
Trim final block to 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″

Make 12 blocks
The Quilt

Gather

12, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ star blocks
inner border – 4, 1″ x wof
outer border – 4, 3″ x wof

Arrange blocks in a 4 x 3 grid to your liking.
Sew 3 sets of 4 blocks together to make rows
Sew rows together to make center of top.
Sew inner border strips on long edges.
Iron seam allowances towards the border
Sew inner border strips on short edges
Irons seam allowances towards the border
Repeat border process with outer border.
Layer and quilt as desired.

One super cute little quilt for doll or baby. This quilt is also sized nicely to fit on a coffee or end table. Alter the arrangement of blocks to a 2 x 6 grid and create a sweet holiday runner.

Food for thought – This block was designed to be used with candy charm sized pieces. You used them to make the points of the stars in the flying goose units, and the corner background pieces. You could also use them to make the rest of the block.

Sew 2 candy charms together to make 1, 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle. This is the size of the foundation rectangle for the flying goose unit.

Sew 4 candy charms together to make 1, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square. Perfect for the center of these stars!

Check out the block I made with 24 candy charm squares and the scraps from my inner border. To do the same you need 12 light squares and 12 dark squares. Depending on the fabric line (not all lines have the same number of dark and light fabrics in them) you could make 2 blocks per candy charm pack. OR, go with a regular sized charm pack and you have the makings of 8 blocks. OR go with a layer cake and you can make 32 blocks. I think I would love to see that quilt!

This is a picture collage made on PicMonkey.
Imagine how cool it would look with 16 different blocks!

No matter what version of this pattern you use, or what fabric line, I ‘d love to see it. Please add a picture to the Tops to Treasures Flickr group, or send me your photo. I would be glad to add it for you.

Cindy Sharp
{www.topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

S’more Mountains Jelly Roll Quilt

Aug5

Hello! I’m so glad to be here with you today. Camping has a special spot in my heart. My Dad designed camps for a living. Yup, there is someone who gets paid to do that job….or there used to be. Dad designed camps all over the USA for the Boy Scouts of America, the Girl Scouts, and the Presbyterian Church. If there is a spot in our great country near and dear to your heart my dad could tell you all about it…intimately. That was his super power! When I introduced him to my husband, years ago before G was even my fiancé, Dad knew where his folks lived….literally. He could describe the house and the yard. He had been past it a hundred times on his way into the Sierra Nevada National Park…en route to one camp or another. It tickles me pink to know that he had such a profound influence on people. It is like having a little bit of my daddy with me every where I go.

S’more Love, by Eric and Julie Comstock is perfect for making a quilt to enjoy by the camp fire…or to enjoy in your RV… or living room long after the trip is over. It would look great in a little boy’s bedroom. The line is filled with whimsical characters and vibrant colors.

1 Jelly Roll

I used S’more Love + 4 2 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips

1 1/4 yards dark fabric for distant mountains and inner border

I used Bella Chocolate #9900-41

1 yards light fabric for distant sky

I used Bella Feather #9900-127

1/4 yard for corner stones

I used Campfire star bursts #37075-13

2 yards for outer border

Yardage is required for fussy cutting the stripes in S’more Love
I used Multi stripe #37070-11
If you do not fussy cut you only need 3/4 yard

1/2 yard for binding

I used Campfire star bursts #37075-13

4 yards for backing

I used Aspen green with cars on it #37071-14

Various scraps for applique

I used scraps of Home Town by Sweetwater, and Pezzy by American Jane

Helpful tools:

9 1/2″ square quilting ruler.

6, 3/4″ diameter buttons to use as tires for applique trucks and campers.

This quilt is made from 42, 9″ finished blocks – two sets of 21 each.

Cutting Directions:

From Dark Mountains fabric

Cut 11, 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ squares (for distant mountains)

Cut 3, 10 1/4″x width of fabric (wof) strips
Sub cut wof strips into 4, 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ squares each for 12 squares

Cut 7, 1 1/2″x wof (for inner border)

From Light Sky fabric

Cut 11, 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ squares (for distant sky)

Cut 3, 10 1/4″x width of fabric (wof) strips
Sub cut wof strips into 4, 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ squares each for 12 squares

From Corner Stone fabric

Cut 4, 4″x 4″ squares (for corner stones)
Cut 2, 2 1/2″ x wof (to supplement jelly roll strips)

From Outer Border fabric

If fussy cutting –

Cut 2, 4″x 65 1/2″ strips along length of pattern
Cut 2, 4″x 56 1/2″ strips along length of pattern
from fussy cutting scraps

Cut 2, 2 1/2″ x 42″ strips to supplement jelly roll

If NOT fussy cutting –

Cut 6, 4″ x wof strips
cut 2, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

From binding fabric

Cut 7, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Tips for working with Jelly Rolls:

Run a lint brush over the raw edged sides of the jelly roll before unwrapping it, otherwise you will have little fluffy lint fuzzes all over the place.
Iron strips flat before sewing.
GET STEAMED!! It will help to realign the fibers is you use steam when you iron. They will relax and loose the curl that has been forced into them by being rolled up

Sewing Directions:
LARGE STRIPED TRIANGLES:

From jelly roll (+ 4, 2 1/2″ x wof strips cut from corner stone and outer border fabrics)

Randomly sew 11 sets of 4 strips together along the long edge
Iron seam allowances open

To open seam allowances place the sewn strip on a hard surface (like a cutting table or desk) Spread the larger pieces of fabric to the sides, right side down, then use your finger nail to nudge the seam allowances apart. The use STEAM to set the seams open.

Each strip set should measure approximately 42″ x 8 1/2″
Using the lines on your ruler cut 45 degrees from the corner of the first strip set.

Turn ruler over and make second cut on strip set at 45 degrees from the last edge cut.

Continue in this manner across set for 4 large right triangles per set
Because you will be working with biased edges the pieces will have a tendency to stretch. Do the best that you can to keep things square, but don’t worry too much about it. These triangles are large enough to be squared up when you get to the final step of block construction.
Repeat process with remaining strip sets for a total of 44 large right triangles.
NOTE: As you only need 42, you will have two extras.

MOUNTAIN BLOCKS:

Mountain Block, Right Facing – make 21
NOTE – This is a drawing. In an actual block the striped pieces may be different widths.

Mountain Block, Left Facing – make 21
NOTE – This is a drawing. In an actual block the striped pieces may be different widths.

Gather

11, dark 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ squares
11, light 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ squares
42 large, striped right triangles

Make 21 half square triangles (HST)

Draw a line diagonally across the wrong side of each light 10 1/4″x 10 1/4″ square
Align one light square atop one dark square with right sides together
Sew 1/4″ to each side of the drawn line
Cut on line to make 2 HST
Iron seam allowances open.
Cut each HST in half diagonally, perpendicular to the seam to make 2 right triangles each (mirror images of each other)
Repeat process with remaining squares, but do not cut the last HST in half for 42 bi-colored large triangles.

Sew one striped triangle to one bi-colored triangle

The striped triangles will be bigger than the bi-colored triangles. I did this on purpose so that the cutting would be easier. I found trimming after the weird blocks were made more accurate than trimming stretchy triangles.

Align the triangles along the hypotenuse (the side opposite the right angle), with right sides together, pin!
Sew along the hypotenuse to make one large square-ish shape.

Iron seam allowances towards the striped triangle.
Trim to 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ square – be sure to keep the center of the square where the hypotenuse and the seam of the bi-colored triangle meet.
Repeat with remaining triangles for 42 blocks.

Assemble Center of Quilt:

Gather 42 Mountain blocks

21 right facing
21 left facing

Arrange 7 rows of 6 blocks each

3 rows – left, right, left, right, left, right – notice how they make 3 striped peaks

4 rows – right, left, right, left, right, left – only two striped peaks here

Sew blocks together ironing seam allowances towards the left facing block
Sew rows together

It will help to keep your quilt square if you

Pin the rows together, making sure that the seams from each row line up with the seams to the next.
Sew the rows together with the white (sky fabric) on the top. It is cut with the weave of the fabric and will not stretch as much as the edge of the striped mountains.

Start with a right left right row
Alternate rows
End with a right left right row

Add Borders:

Gather

Center of quilt
7, 1 1/2″x wof (for inner border)
4, 4″ x 4″ corner stones
Outer border strips

Inner Borders

Sew 2 sets of 2, 1 1/2″ strips together along the short side.
Iron seam allowance open
Attach to long sides of quilt top.
Iron seam allowance toward the border.
Trim excess.
Sew remaining strips together, along the short sides, to make 2 pieces long enough to fit short ends of your quilt top.
Attach to the short sides of quilt top.
Iron seam allowances towards the border.
Trim excess.

Outer Borders

Measure the sides of your quilt top – record below

________ top (short)
________ bottom (short)
________ left (long)
________ right (long)

Cut 2 strips to fit the left and right sides as recorded above.
Attach to quilt top
Iron seam allowances towards the outer border
Cut remaining strips to fit the top and bottom as recorded above. (Remember you are going to add a corner stone in the next step…your strip will be shorter than the edge of your quilt at the moment.)
Add corner stones to the ends of each strip.
Iron seam allowances towards the strip.
PIN strip to top, right sides together, matching up seam at corner stones with seam of long borders.
Sew in place.
Iron seam allowances towards the outer border.
Repeat process for bottom edge.

Your top will look something like this now.

Add Applique:

This is totally optional. The mountains do not need the applique to be a finished quilt. Look at the picture above. I think the quilt would be perfect just like this. However, I wanted to play with the fun characters in S’more Love.

I found some wonderful drawings on Moda’s swatch pages for this line. I cut and pasted and enlarged the images until I got what I wanted, then turned them into an applique.

I added a little bit of dimension by adding an extra piece of batting between the appliqued pieces and the core of the quilt. (This is an old technique called Trapunto) I like the way it makes my cars and RVs pop.

Finish Quilt: Layer and Quilt as desired.

A perfect spot to dream about the next camping trip – 63″x 72″ big enough to cover a camping cot, or the skinny pull out bed in your RV.

I quilted mine in Vickie Malaski’s Animal Tracks pattern.

I’d love to see your quilts. Please share a photo of your finished quilt with my group, Tops to Treasures on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Mimi’s Daisy Chains Quilted Throw

Jul2

It is a thrill to be back at the Bake Shop today. Nothing charms my geeky soul like designing a quilt and writing directions for it. Nothing comes close…except for memories of my Nanny. I grew up in a household that had room for the whole family. There was always room for one more. My maternal grandparents were a daily presence and made my life that much richer. I know in some homes, especially in the American South, Nanny would have been called Mimi, so my thought turned to her as I finished this quilt.

Nanny was English – naturalized as an American as a little girl – she never lost that lovely English way of doing things…nor the accent! Gosh I miss her. She would have loved this fabric line. I can imagine her sitting with me on top of this quilt playing board games, or snuggled under it on the front porch reading together. It isn’t a hard stretch at all, even 13 years after she celebrated her last birthday.

Spring time, little girls, grandmothers, it all combines to make a great song…sweet and homey. This quilt is the product of that song. I hope you like it.

1 layer cake

I used Mimi by Chez Moi

1/3 yard for flower centers

I used #16098-15 – yellow dots;

1 1/4 yards solid for background on 9 blocks (dominant background)

I used Bella snow #9900-11

1/2 yard solid for background on 4 blocks (secondary background)

I used 9900-169 ruby ice

1/3 yard for inner border

I used #16098-19 – red dots

2 yards for setting triangles and outer border

I used #16095-11 – flowers on cream and aqua

1/2 yard for binding

I used #16098-22 – aqua dots

6 yards for backing

I used #16094-13 lavender leaves

Cutting Directions:

From Layer Cake

Cut 52, 5″x5″ squares (in sets of 4)

select 13 slices for flower petals that will contrast with your background and your flower center fabric

cut each slice into 4, 5″x 5″ squares for 52 squares

From flower center fabric

cut 13, 5″x 5″ squares

cut 2, 5″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
sub cut first strip into 8, 5″x 5″ squares
sub cut second strip into 5, 5″x 5″ squares plus a remnant

From dominant background fabric

cut 36, 5″x 5″ squares

cut 5, 5″ x wof strips
sub cut 4 strips into 8, 5″x 5″ squares each for 32 squares
sub cut remaining strip into 4, 5″x5″ squares plus a remnant

cut 180, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares

cut 8, 1 3/4″ x wof strips
sub cut 7 strips into 24, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares each for 168 squares
sub cut remaining strip into 12, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″” squares plus a remnant

From secondary background fabric

cut 16, 5″x5″ squares

cut 2, 5″x wof strips
sub cut strips into 8, 5″x5″ squares each for 16 squares

cut 80, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares

cut 4, 1 3/4″x wof strips
sub cut 3 strips into 24,1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares each for72 squares
sub cut remaining strip into 8, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares plus a remnant

From inner border fabric

cut 6, 1 1/2″ x wof strips

From setting and outer border fabric

7, 5″ x wof strips (for outer border)
cut 2, 20 3/4″x 20 3/4″ squares (for setting sides)

cut 1, 20 3/4″ x wof strip
sub cut strip into 2, 20 3/4″ x 20 3/4″ squares
LEAVE AS SQUARES UNTIL NEEDED

cut 2, 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ squares (for setting corners)

LEAVE AS SQUARES UNTIL NEEDED

From binding fabric

cut 7, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Break time – if you have done all of that cutting you need to take a break now. Make yourself a tall cold drink. Go outside and enjoy the sunshine. Stretch your back. Breath. Mimi would want you to.

Sewing Directions:

Make Blocks – This quilt is made from 13 large, nine patch blocks. There are 9 with a light background (dominant background) and 4 with a secondary background. Set on point these create a fun argyle effect. The blocks are made the same way regardless of the color of the background.

Make Snowball Units:

Snowball unit

Gather

52, 5″x 5″ squares (in sets of 4) – flower petals

13, 5″x 5″ squares – flower centers
180, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares – dominant background
80, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares – secondary background

Draw a line diagonally across the wrong side of all (260) 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares
Sort – to keep the backgrounds with the right flower petals and centers

Dominant Squares

180, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares – dominant background
9, 5″x 5″ squares – flower centers
9 sets of 4, 5″x 5″ squares – flower petals

Secondary Squares

80, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares -secondary background
4, 5″x 5″ squares – flower centers
4 sets of 4, 5″x 5″ squares – flower petals

Place Secondary group to the side.

With right sides together align one 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ square with the corner of one 5″x 5″ square so that the diagonal line cuts across the corner.

Sew along diagonal line, just to the outside of it….closer to the corner than the body of the larger square.
Trim the background fabric

1/4″ from stitch line
to the outside of stitch line – on the side of the tiny outer corner.

Iron little square in half along the sew line.

Repeat process with remaining corners of 5″x5″ square.
Trim block back to 5″x 5″ if needed. This is a pain, but well worth the effort as you blocks will sew together more neatly.
Repeat process 44 times with remaining centers and petals in group for 45 snowball blocks with dominant background corners.
Repeat process with secondary group for 20 snowball blocks with secondary background corners.

Make Daisy Chain Blocks:

Gather

45 snowball blocks with dominant background corners
36, 5″x 5″ squares – dominant background
20 snowball blocks with secondary background corners
16, 5″x 5″ squares – secondary background

Sort – pieces into 13 stacks each containing the following 9 pieces:

4 matching petal snowballs
1 center snowball with matching background corners
4, 5″x 5″ squares – background to match corners of petals and center

Arrange pieces from 1 stack so that they look like the picture below.

Daisy Chain Block

Sew rows

rows 1 & 3

background square, petal, background square
iron seam allowances towards the background square

row 2

petal, center, petal
iron seam allowances towards the center

Sew rows together to make block
Repeat 12 times for 13 blocks.

Assemble Center of Quilt Top:

Mimi’s Daisy Chains is arranged on point. The rows are assembled at a 45 degree angle…well, no you don’t have to sit wonky in your chair…the rows are assembled just like the rows of any quilt, but they are set at an angle in the finished quilt.

This is a good time to drag out your design wall….otherwise know as the floor, your bed, the living room drapes, or shower curtain. You need a big flat surface on which to arrange the blocks to your liking. It shouldn’t be too hard…there are only 13 blocks, and 4 of those are limited to where they can go. Ultimately I don’t think it is going to matter too much where each block goes…but you need to be happy with the arrangement. Take the time now to arrange them and you will be happier later.

Row Assembly

Gather:

13 Daisy Chain blocks
10 3/8″ x 10 3/8″ square border fabric (for setting corners)
2, 20 3/4″ x 20 3/4″ squares border fabric (for setting edges)

Stabilize setting triangles – These pieces are going to be the edges of your quilt before you attache the inner border. Because of their size and the fact that they are cut on the bias they will be very stretchy. Take a moment now to stabilize them. You will be glad you did.

For setting sides:

Gather 2, 20 3/4″ x 20 3/4″ squares
Iron and starch them liberally.
Draw 2 diagonal lines on the wrong side of each.

Using a single layer of fabric sew next to, about 3/16″ from each side of the lines

It will look like a big double X sewn onto a single layer of fabric.

Cut on lines

For setting corners:

Gather 2, 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ squares
Iron and starch them liberally
Draw 1 diagonal line on the wrong side of each.
Using a single layer of fabric sew next to, about 3/16″ from each side of the lines

Cut on lines.

Assemble rows

When working with setting triangles

Align the right angled corner with the corner of your daisy chain block.

When working with corner triangles

Find the center of the hypotenuse
Find the center of the block to which you are attaching the triangle
Pin centers, right sides together.
Pin from center out to the edges
There should be a tiny 1/4″ bunny ear sticking over the edge.

Iron seam allowance towards the dominant background
Sew rows together to make top.

Pin rows together starting with center squares.
Pin seams for large blocks first then pin seams within the blocks
There should be a bunny ear sticking over the edge where the setting triangles meet the ends of your rows.

Add final two setting triangles to complete square.

Add Borders:

Border Assembly

Gather

Center of quilt top
6, 1 1/2″ x wof strips – inner border fabric
7, 5″ x wof strips – outer border fabric

Inner border

Sew 2 wof strips together along a 1 1/2″ side
Iron seam allowance open
Attach to side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Sew remnant to 1 wof strip along a 1 1/2″ side
Iron seam allowance o pen
Attach to parallel side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Repeat process with remaining sides of quilt.

Outer border

Sew 2 wof strips together along a 5″ side
Iron seam allowance open
Attach to side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Sew Iron seam allowance o pen
Attach to parallel side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Repeat process with remaining sides of quilt.

Finishing – Layer and quilt as desired

Don’t forget to add a label!

4,900 square inches (70’x70′) of day dreaming loveliness; a magic carpet of meadow flowers; a safe place on a rainy summer day; sweet memories of Mimi.

Please share a photo of your finished quilt with my group, Tops to Treasures on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Jiggity Quilt

Jun2

Have you ever gotten an idea in your head and then had a hard time shaking it? It is like a song that inserts itself into your day and will not be abandoned. No matter what you do that silly song is right there with you.

This quilt is like that for me.

The idea grew from a comment I made in the instructions for my Twisted Charm quilt (posted on Moda Bake Shop on April 26, 2012) I had made the discovery, purely by accident, that if you cut your fabric while it was folded you could end up with half of your blocks turning at a different angle. I warned you that it would make your quilt look “jiggity” like an I-phone when you try to move the little icons around. Then I got a lovely bundle of Kapalua Batiks and wanted to make something beachy.

Jiggity is the blending of the blocks I warned you about and the summer time fun of Kapalua Batiks. It makes me think of bits of sea glass that are being tumbled in the ocean, broken bits caught in an undertow and polished until they delight us. I can smell salt mixed with a subtle hint of coconut oil drifting on a breeze….oh, that wasn’t the quilt….that was one of my boys walking by with a bowl of pop corn….different kind of summer time fun.

1 charm pack (40, 5″ squares) (Kapalua Batiks)
1 ½ yds cream solid (Bella Fig Tree Cream #9900-67)
1 3/4 yds chocolate brown solid (Bella Brown #9900-71)
½ yd inner border (Kapalua Batiks #4320-31)
½ yd binding (cut 2.5″ with wof) , and setting squares (Kapalua Batiks #4320-48)
3 yds backing (Kapalua Batiks #4320-31)

Open the charm pack

Remove the 10 charms that show the least amount of contrast with cream background fabric. The charms are set right against the cream fabric. Where there is no contrast there will be no gem sparkling on the sand.
Of the remaining 30 charms, put every other patch in a different pile. Go through the whole pack until you have 2 piles of 15 patches. This will put approximately half of each color way in each pile.

Cutting Directions:

Block A – Single Twist (15 blocks)

From cream

cut 3 5″ width of fabric (wof) strips
cut 2 wof strips into 14 3″ pieces each
cut 2 3″ pieces from the remaining wof strip
you should have 30, 3″x5″ rectangles
sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 60 triangles.
If you are using a patterned fabric for the background DO NOT LAYER YOUR RECTANGLES WITH LIKE SIDES TOGETHER WHEN YOU CUT THEM. This will result in half of the triangles leaning the wrong direction. If both sides of your fabric are the same (like in a Bella solid) this isn’t an issue.

From charm pack

Please measure your charms. Do not assume that just because they are labeled 5″ squares that they are. Charms are pinked at the edges. Find out if 5″ is 5″ at the inside or the outside of the zigzag. It will make a difference.
15 5″x5″ patches

Block B – Double Twist (15 blocks)

From brown

cut 3, 5″ wof strips
cut 2 wof strips into 14 3″ pieces each
cut 2 3″ pieces from remaining wof strip
you should have 30, 3″x5″ rectangles
THIS IS THE POINT OF THIS QUILT – PAY ATTENTION If you are using Bella or a similar solid you don’t have to worry about how you cut things; however if you are using a printed fabric you need to take note of which direction you cut the rectangles for Block A. Cut all rectangles for Block B in the opposite direction.
sub-cut each rectangle once on the opposite diagonal for a total of 60 triangles. *Mind the warning in Block A

From cream

cut 2, 4″ wof strips
from 2 wof strips cut 15, 2 3/8″ x 4″ rectangles
sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal, in the same direction you just did for the brown triangles in Block B, for a total of 60 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A

From charm squares

trim 15 charms to 3 3/4″ squares

Sashing

From brown

cut 3, 6 ½” x wof strips
cut 36, 1 ½” x 6 ½” rectangles (28 from one wof strip and 8 from a second.)
SAVE rest of second strip with the third strip.

From setting square fabric

Cut 2, 1 ½” x wof strips

Sew setting strips to remainder of brown strips from previous along the long edge.

Iron seams toward the brown
Cut 35, 1 ½” x 7 ½” rectangles from pieced strips. These will look like brown match sticks with colored heads.
From remainder of setting stip cut 7, 1 1/2″ squares

Inner Border

From setting fabric

cut 4, 1 ½” squares

From inner border fabric

cut 5, 1 ½” x wof strips

Outer Border

From cream

cut 5, 4 ½” x wof strips

From setting square fabric

cut 4, 4 1/2″ squares

Binding

Cut 6, 2 ½” wof strips

Time for a break. If you have completed all of this cutting and prepping, the rest of the quilt should go together easily.

Piecing Directions:
Sometimes a sewing machine can eat the points of a triangle as it is being fed through the feed dogs. If you have trouble with this, try using a leader. A leader is a small piece of fabric that leads the way for the rest of your sewing. Take a scrap of fabric and feed it through the feed dogs ahead of your triangles – like you are chain piecing an extra little bit before your real pieces. It seems to help.

Block A – Single Twist

The goal is to make 15 blocks like this one. They will each have a different center.
Align a cream triangle with the stubby angle 1/4″ over the edge of a 5″ charm and the pointy angle 1/2″ over the parallel edge
Sew 1/4″ seam along the long cream edge. If you are careful not to stretch the fabric, you don’t have to pin.
I’ve noticed that when using a machine with a 1/4″ foot, I can align my needle at the intersection of the two pieces and edge of the fabric right next to the flange of the foot and everything comes out where it should. The seam will start and stop at where the edges of the fabric intersect.
Iron the seam toward the cream.
Repeat on next side, 3 times until all four sides are added
Trim to 6 1/2″ square. Really. Do this. I sized the pieces so that they would be big – to make the piecing easier. If you don’t trim them it won’t work right. Yes, it is tedious and boring. I don’t like to do it either. Do it anyway.
If you have a 6 1/2″ trimming square center the center so that as close to 1/4″ of cream is between the points and the edge.
It is fine if it isn’t perfect. Even if you sew a corner into the seam allowance when you piece the blocks together it will still look square. The blocks are set in brown- your eyes will fill in any corners that are missing.
Make 15.

Block B – Backwards Double Twist

The goal, again, is 15 blocks.
These will each have a different center and two twists.
Add the cream triangles to the trimmed charms in the opposite direction from Block A.
Trim blocks to 5″ squares.
Add the brown triangles just like you did the cream ones a moment ago.
Iron towards the cream.
Trim to 6 1/2″ squares.
Make 15.

Center

Arrange blocks in a grid 5 blocks by 6 blocks alternating every other block.
NOTE: to my OCD friends this quilt does not come out even. If you are really OCD you have already noticed this, and probably chosen not to make it…or you have altered the pattern. If you aren’t, you are doing it right if the corner blocks only match on one side.
Step away from your arrangement and see if you still like it. If you can’t get very far from it try taking a quick photograph of it with your cell phone. Look at the picture to see if the distribution of colors pleases you.
If you have a design wall this is a good time to use it. If you don’t there are other options. You can put them on the floor or lay them on a bed. You can close the drapes and pin your blocks to them. Or use the shower curtain. Use your imagination.
You can also just wing it. Random is good – but I haven’t met many people who are actually happy with random.

Vertical Sashing

Once you are happy with the layout sew a brown “stick” to the right side of each block in each row.
Sew the rows together:

(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)

Sew a stick to the left side of the leading block
Iron seams toward the brown sashing.

Horizontal sashing.

You need to make 7 rows of horizontal sashing.

Sew 5 matchsticks together along the skinny side with the setting block (head) pointing toward the right.

Sew one head on the end of the last match stick.

Iron seams toward the brown sticks.

Place one matchstick row between each row of blocks.
Attach horizontal sashing.

Snuggle sashing seams and pin in place
Iron seams toward horizontal sashing.

Borders

Inner border

Measure your quilt’s length and width. Write it down.
It should be something like 36 1/2″ x 43 1/2.
Sew one 1 1/2″ border strip to each of the skinny ends.
Iron seams toward the border.
Trim excess.
Sew the remaining three skinny strips together, end for end.
Cut two strips from this that are the length of your quilt as it was when you wrote it down. (It should be 2″ shorter than the top is now.)
Sew a 1 1/2″ setting square to the ends of each of these strips. Iron seams toward the border strips.
Snuggle corner seams together. Pin in place.
Pin remaining length of borders in place.
Sew on long borders.
Iron seams toward border fabric.

Outer border

Measure your quilt’s length and width. Write it down.
It should be something like 38 1/2″ x 45 1/2″, give or take.
Sew 4 1/2″ border strips together end for end….making one very long and skinny strip.
Cut 4 lengths from this strip that are equal to the measurements you just wrote down. (2 that are the length of the top and 2 that equal the width.)
Sew short edges of the border on first.
Iron seams toward the border.
Sew a 4 1/2″ setting square to each end of each of the long strips. Iron seams toward the border strips.
Snuggle corner seams together. Pin in place.
Pin remaining length of borders in place.
Sew on long borders.
Iron seams toward border fabric.

Layer and Quilt as desired.

1 crib or throw sized quilt, finished size: 46″ x 53″. A place to day dream away the long hot days of summer – a beach blanket for a tiny tot, a picnic spot for afternoon tea, a quilt to wrap up a water logged frozen child in.

Enjoy!

Cindy @ Tops to Treasures
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Wobbly Web Layer Cake Throw

May3

The Boo Crew by Sweetwater is just too darn cute. From the moment I saw it, I had to play with some. I love the funny monsters, “ramen noodle” stripes, and muted ghastly colors. It is perfect for some late October silliness and it will be available in stores next month so you can get an early start on Halloween!

The monsters and I at Tops to Treasures love it! I think you might too.

42, 10″ x 10″ squares

There are 42, 10″ x 10″ squares in one layer cake; however, some of these squares may not contrast well with your web fabric. To maximize contrast I chose not to use the pieces with black backgrounds. There are 9 pieces of “The Boo Crew” that are mostly black. Pull them out of your pile and set them aside. Replace them:

either Supplement your layer cake with 3, 1/3 yard cuts of a fabric that contrasts better. You will be able to cut 4, 10″ x 10″ squares from each 1/3 yard piece.
or by purchase 2 layer cakes and pull out just the pieces you like. (Check my blog for a companion project to use up the extra slices of cake.)

2 1/2 yards fabric for web and outer border

I used #5510-11. It is black with cream words all over it

1/2 yard fabric for inner border

I used #5513-13. It is a sick green with creepy little spiders crawling all over it.

1 1/2 yard fabric for outer border

I used #5510-16. It is just like my web fabric only with a cream background and colorful words.

1/2yard fabric for spider applique

I used Bella black (#9900-199) however, how cool would it be to use something textured or soft. I could totally get into a fuzzy spider on my quilt.

2/3 yard fabric for binding

I used #5513-13. Back to the green to echo my inner border.

5 yards fabric for backing

Have I told you that I like purple? I chose #5516-14. This is an awesome lavender with cream polka dots on it.

Tools that will help you:

1, 10″ x 10″ piece of cardboard, or stiff paper

I used the piece of cardboard that came with my layer cake. An old shirt box would work too.

1, Sharpie marker – fine point, bright color works best
1, clear acrylic quilting ruler that is at least 11″ x 6″
rubbing alcohol or alcohol swabs
1, blank sticky note. (Really, one of those little pieces of paper with a sticky edge that you use to post notes in your office.)
1/3 yard fusible web – only if you want to fuse your spider appliques.

4 large white buttons – 1″ in diameter
4 medium black buttons – 1/4″ in diameter or make them different sizes to create googly eyes

I used La Mode #20465 for my quilt.

Cutting Directions:
I recommend that you wait to cut your pieces until you need them, especially the inner border pieces.

From “web” fabric

84, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles (for cross pieces)

cut 3, 11 1/4″ x width of fabric (wof) strips

sub-cut strips into 28, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles each

for a total of 84, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles

16, 5″ x 10″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on short edges)

cut 2, 10″ x wof strips
sub-cut 8, 5 ” x 10″ rectangles from each strip

4, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares ( for outer border corner stones)
16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on long edges)

cut 2, 11″ x wof strips
sub-cut each strip into 8, 5″ x 11″ rectangles.

From inner border fabric

7 wof strips (see Border section of directions)

From outer border fabric

16, 5″ x 10″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on short edges)

cut 2, 10″ x wof strips
sub-cut 8, 5 ” x 10″ rectangles from each strip

16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on long edges)

cut 2, 11″ x wof strips
sub-cut each strip into 8, 5″ x 11″ rectangles.

From binding fabric

8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Sewing Directions:

Wonky Cross Blocks
This quilt is comprised of 42 wonky cross blocks. 21 lean one way (Right-Side-Up), and 21 lean the other (Upside-Down).

All of the blocks need to be wonky in the same way so that the web illusion holds together when we are done. Soooo, we need to create a wonky tool. For some reason ruler manufacturers don’t make their rulers wonky…at least not on purpose. Go figure. Follow the steps outlined below to temporarily transform your ruler.

Make cutting tool

Gather

sharpie
10″ x 10″ square cardboard
clear acrylic quilting ruler

In order for the wonky crosses to create a web, the black bars have to meet when the blocks are put together. This requires a modicum of precision….which we are going to accomplish by making a special wonky ruler.
Take the 10″ x 10″ square of cardboard
Mark the center of two, parallel sides.
Place an additional mark 1″ above the left side (A) and 1″ below the right side (B)
Draw a line from point A to point B

Place your quilting ruler on top of the cardboard so that the line from A to B is along the long edge of your ruler. The ruler should completely cover one side of the cardboard.

Use your sharpie and a straight edge to trace an outline of the cardboard onto your ruler.

This line is going be your guild for placing the 10″ x 10″ squares of fabric when you make the web. Pay close attention to how the paper fits within the lines as this is how your fabric will fit later.

Don’t freak out….sharpie can be used to mark acrylic rulers. Honest. It will not rub off on your fabric. It will however, rub off when you apply a little alcohol to it. If you make a mistake while you are drawing and want to redo the line dab a tiny bit of alcohol on it and rub. Presto! No more line. Once you are happy with the lines you have drawn put the sharpie and the alcohol away. You don’t want marker on your fabric or to accidentally erase the lines.

Make blocks:

Gather:

42, 10″ x 10″ squares
84, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles

Divide

10″ x 10″ squares into two stacks of 21 squares each.
1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles into two stacks of 42 each.
Set one stack of squares and one stack of rectangles aside

21 Right-Side-Up blocks

Gather one set of 21 squares and 42 rectangles.

Align a slice of cake under your new tool

Cut slice in half on the diagonal created by your tool.

Trim 1/4″ from each new edge.

Center 1, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangle on smooth side of one half, right sides together.
Sew
Iron seam allowance toward rectangle.
Trim excess rectangle from edges.

Sew other half of layer cake slice to opposite side of the skinny rectangle. Off set the pieces by 1/8″ in the direction of the shorter edge. There should be a tiny 1/8″ wedge hanging over the edge of the short sides of the pieces.

Iron seam allowance toward the rectangle. (This will help your web to appear to pop off of the background later.)
Trim your block back to 10″ x 10″ square if needed.

Turn piece 90 degrees and repeat process
Aline with the tool and cut in half on the diagonal created by your tool.

Trim 1/4″ from each new edge.

Center a 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangle on an smooth edge, right sides together.
Sew.
Iron towards rectangle
Trim Excess
Sew other half on

Offset the pieces by 1/8″ in the direction of the shorter edge. There should be a tiny 1/8″ wedge hanging over the edge of the short sides of the pieces.
The legs of the cross should fall on top of one another. You can pin them in place if you want to make sure that they stay in a straight line. However, this is not necessary. If it is a little bit off it will just enhance the beautiful wonkiness of this block.

Iron seam allowance towards the rectangle
Trim block back to 10″ x 10″ square if needed.

Repeat process 20 times for 21 Right-Side-Up blocks.

21 Upside-Down blocks.

Gather remaining set of 21 squares and 42 rectangles
Follow the directions for Right-Side-Up blocks only flip your ruler upside down and keep it that way.
This is a very UN-NATURAL way to use a ruler. Trust me, you will flip it back over. Mark the bottom of the ruler with a sticky note to help you keep your head in the game.

Flipping the ruler upside down forces the angle to be a mirror image and allows the legs of the crosses to meet. If you don’t do this your spiders will be wandering among a field of wonky crosses rather than walking on a wonderfully wonky web.
Confused? At some point you are bound to step away from your project. Phone call, bathroom break, car pool line,….something is sure to pull you away. Before you start cutting again make sure that you have the ruler oriented correctly. Check it by placing the ruler on top of the block you are working on. The shape drawn on the ruler should match the shape in your block exactly. If not turn the ruler over before you continue.

Center of Quilt Top

Arrange the blocks in a 6 x 7 grid

At this point a design wall is helpful. However, it is not necessary. Any large flat surface will work. Try your bed, floor, draperies or shower curtain. They will do just fine.
Every other block is a mirror image block. They should lean left, then right, then left, etc. across the quilt and down.
Arrange the blocks in a way that is pleasing to you….personally I go for random. I don’t even look anymore. I try to sew the rows together so that no two blocks have the same fabric (pattern or color) right next to each other. Beyond that I leave it to the angels to arrange my quilt blocks. This is supposed to be fun – worrying about where every block goes is not fun to me. If it is to you knock yourself out.
Sew 7rows of 6 blocks
Iron seam allowances in the same direction each time so that they will snuggle when you go to sew the rows together.

Flip the row wrong side up. Look at the blocks on the far right and left.
Iron the seam allowances towards the block that has leftward leaning piecing.
If you do this each time then all of your block seams will be irons so that they will snuggle nicely.

Sew columns together to make the center of the quilt.

Borders:
This quilt has two borders. A straight forward inner border, and a pieced outer border.

Seam allowances vary from quilter to quilter. Your seams may be a bit bigger or a bit smaller than mine. It all works out in the end. However, because this quilt has a pieced outer border I want to make sure that it fits your quilt.

Measure your quilt top as it is right now…without any borders. It should measure 57 1/2″ x 67″.

Write it down here __________________________________.

Skip down in the directions and make your outer border.

Measure the length of your border pieces with out corner stones. They should measure 60″ and 69 1/2″. These are the raw measurements. This is what it should actually measure when you apply a measuring tape to the fabric.

Write it down here ___________________________________________.

The difference between the size of your quilt without borders and the size it needs to be to fit the outer border is the width that your inner border needs to be. This does not include seam allowances so “tay appention”.

Imagine that every thing worked out perfectly (LOL Mine didn’t.)

Width –

The width without borders measures 57 1/2″.
The length of the short pieces of the outer border are 60″
60″ – 57.5″ = 2.5″
Divide by 2 so that you have the same amount of border on each side of the quilt and the finished inner border for the short ends needs to be 1.25″
Add 1/2″ to allow for the seams
The inner border pieces for the width of this quilt need to be cut 1 3/4″ x wof.

Length –

The length without borders measures 67″
The length of the long pieces of outer border are 69 1/2″
69.5″ – 67″ = 2.5″
Divide by 2 so that you have the same amount of border on each side of the quilt and the finished inner border for the long sides needs to be 1.25″
Add 1/2″ to allow for the seams
The inner border pieces for the length of this quilt needs to be cut 1 3/4″ x wof.

Do the math for your quilt here:

Width –

The width of your quilt measures _________
The length of your short pieces of the outer border are ____________.
___________ – ________ = ___________
divide your answer by 2 = ____________
+ 1/2″ = ____________
cut 3 strips _________ x wof for the inner border on the short ends of your quilt.

Length –

The length of your quilt measures _________
The length of your long pieces of the outer border are _________________
____________ – ________ = ___________
divide your answer by 2 = ____________
+ 1/2″ = ____________
cut 4 strips _________ x wof for the inner border on the long sides of your quilt.

Outer Border
There are 5 different blocks in the outer border:

Corner Stones – the 4, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ square in the corners of the quilt
Half Rectangle Triangles (HRT) – like half square triangles these blocks are made of two triangles pieced together. These make a rectangle instead of a square.

Short HRT with black in the lower right – right side up blocks

Short HRT with black in the lower left – mirror image blocks

Long HRT with black in the lower right – right side up blocks

Long HRT with black in the lower left – mirror image blocks

Make Special Ruler
HRTs are tricky. To make these we need to make another special ruler.

Gather

1, Sharpie marker – sharp point, bright color works best
1, clear acrylic quilting ruler that is at least 11″ x 6″
rubbing alcohol or alcohol swabs

Clean Wonky Cross guide lines from your ruler with rubbing alcohol.
Let dry while you print out the ruler templates from the PDF version of this pattern.

If they did not print out with your directions, you can get them here. (http://topstotreasures.blogspot.com/p/wobbley-web-pdf-links.html)

Take a minute to understand the template.
You will see a rectangle drawn with solid lines inside a rectangle drawn with dashed lines.
The solid lines represent the finished block.
The dashed lines represent the raw block. These are the edges of your piece before you sew them together. You could call them the cutting lines.
Notice that the diagonal line in the center of the finished block does NOT meet exactly in the corners. It is close…but it is definitely NOT perfectly aligned. This is correct – it allows for the HRT to come to a point when the seams are sewn.

Place ruler on top of ruler template

Notice which template it is. It might be a good idea to write “short” or “long” corresponding to the template on the ruler with your sharpie.
Align corner of ruler with corner of rectangle drawn with a dashed line.

Use a straight edge and your sharpie to draw the remaining two lines of the raw block. (Trace the dashed lines)
Use a straight edge and your sharpie to draw the diagonal line
Ta-da you now have a HRT ruler to use for your blocks.
NOTE: you will have to return to these directions and remake the ruler for the other set of HRTs.

Make HRT Blocks

Gather

16, 5″ x 10 ” rectangles – web fabric
16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles – web fabric
16, 5″ x 10″ rectangles – outer border fabric
16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles – outer border fabric
Clear acrylic quilting ruler with HRT markings (made in previous step)
Sharpie marker
alcohol

Sew rectangles together in sets of two – one web fabric and one outer border fabric

10″ to 10″ and 11″ to 11″
Right sides together
Sew along the long edge of the rectangle
Iron seam allowances towards the darker fabric
Divide resulting pieced units into 4 piles

2 piles of 9 1/2″ x 10″ with 8 units each.
2 pile of 9 1/2″ x 11″ with 8 units each.

Short blocks

Using short version of the HRT tool
8 blocks

Gather one pile of 9 1/2″ x 10″ units.

Cut one end

Place one pieced unit face up on your cutting surface.
Place HRT tool on top of fabric – right side up
Align diagonal line on HRT tool with seam line of unit.
Trim unit to HRT

Turn ruler to cut other end

Repeat 7 times for 8 right side up HRTs

8 mirror image blocks

Turn HRT tool upside down.

Place sticky note on true bottom of tool so that you remember it is now the top.
Gather remaining pile of 9 1/2″ x 10″ units.
Place one pieced unit face up on your cutting surface.
Place HRT tool on top of fabric – upside down
Align diagonal line on HRT tool with seam line of unit.
Trim unit to HRT
Repeat 7 times for 8 mirror image HRTs

Long blocks

Using long version of the HRT tool
Repeat process as described in the short block directions

Make Short Sides of Outer Border:

Gather

16 short right side up HRTs
16 short mirror image HRTs

Sew 16 sets

1 right side up, 1 mirror image HRT block
Sew along the short end, at the web fabric side.
You should have 8 squashed rectangles that look like squashed dark triangles on a light colored background

Iron seams open
Sew 2 rows

Sew 4 sets together along the short end, at the background fabric side
You should have a long strip with 4 dark points facing one way and 3 facing the other

Measure the length and record here ____________________.

Make Long Sides of Outer Border:

Gather

16 long right side up HRTs
16 long mirror image HRTs

Sew 16 sets

1 right side up, 1 mirror image HRT block
Sew along the short end, at the web fabric side.
You should have 8 squashed rectangles that look like squashed dark triangles on a light colored background

Iron seams open
Sew 2 rows

Sew 4 sets together along the short end, at the background fabric side
You should have a long strip with 4 dark points facing one way and 3 facing the other

Measure the length and record here ____________________.

Inner Border
This is where the quilt is adjusted to make sure that the borders fit. Please refer to the Borders section of the directions to calculate how wide to cut your strips.

Gather

Center of Quilt Top
7 wof strips inner border fabric

Width

Sew 2 inner border width strips together on short edge
Iron seam allowance open
Sew strip to short side of top
Iron seam allowance towards the border
Trim excess

Sew remnant to remaining inner border width strip along the short side.

Iron seam open

Sew strip to opposite side of top

Iron seam allowance towards the border

Trim excess

Repeat process with inner border length strips for long sides.

Attach Outer Border

Gather

Quilt top (with inner border added)
2 long outer border strips
2 short outer border strips
4, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares web fabric

Be gentle with these blocks. Because they are not cut with the weave of the fabric they tend to be a little stretchy. It would be very easy to warp your border by tugging on the blocks.
Pin short outer border strip to short edges of quilt top

Align center seam to center seam of wonky blocks section.

Sew
Iron seam allowances towards outer border
Sew 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares to each end of the long border strips
Pin long border strips to long edges of quilt top

Align center seam with center of quilt
Align seam between corner squares and border strips with seam between short border strips and inner border.

Sew
Iron seam allowances towards outer border

Applique

Eeeek! It’s a spider!! Attached to the PDF version of this pattern is a template to cut out the spider parts. Position and attach the spiders to your quilt top using your favorite method of applique. (If the pattern is not attached you can find it here.)

Note – If you are opting to use buttons for the spiders eyes, please do this AFTER you have quilted your project. It will keep your family from learning words you would rather they didn’t know….and certainly not hear from your lips.

Finishing – Layer and quilt as desired.

I would love to see your creation. Please feel free to join my Flickr group, Tops to Treasures, and add your pictures!

One super silly Halloweeny quilt that measures about 69 1/2″ x 79″. It would be a great place to sit and sort the loot from Trick-or-Treating, or to cuddle under with some hot spiced cider while you sit by the front door ready to dish treats out.

It is a little too short for a bed, but if you don’t mind not having a pillow tuck it would do in a pinch….how cool would it be to have a seasonal quilt on your guest bed?

Cindy Sharp
{www.topstotreasures.blogspot.com}