Trifle Dish: Brick Borders

Today is the last instructional post in the Trifle Dish Sew-Along. Oda May will return with a full pattern download and a giveaway opportunity on July 7. She’s going to ask to see some of your blocks for the giveaway so start sewing!

To make the BORDERS, use charm packs and Moda candy to mix and match for a scrappy version. Layer cakes will yield more repetitive blocks and introduce a secondary pattern.
For EACH brick border block, you will need:
    • ( 6) 4½” x 2½” rectangles
    • (4) 2½” squares
    Block Dimensions: 8″ x 8″ (finished) / 8½” w x 8½” h (unfinished)
    The brick borders are the perfect opportunity to use up the scraps from the rest of the quilt.
    You will need an additional (2) strips of fabric measuring 2″ x 8½” to complete the side borders to the appropriate length.
    Suggested precuts: Charm packs, layer cakes, Moda Candy
    1. Arrange fabric pieces as shown below and sew rows together, pressing each seam as you go. 
     2.  Join rows to create the block.  Because there are no seams to match, press seams open or to the side (whichever is your preference).

    You will need 8 blocks each for the top and bottom borders and 12 blocks each for the side borders (total of 40 blocks).

    3.  Join 8 blocks to create the top border. Repeat to create the bottom border. Attach to the quilt top.

    4. Join 12 blocks to create one side border. Add 2″ strips to each end of the border and attach to quilt side. Repeat to create the other side border.
    4 borders: 

    {Top Border}

    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½” 
    {Bottom Border}
    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
    {Side Borders}
    12 blocks measuring 8½” square + (2) 2″ x 8½” end sashing strips = 99½” x 8½”
    {per border}
    Block design by Cheryl Brickey of {Meadow Mist Designs}

    Trifle Dish: Butterflies and 4-Patches

    To make LAYER 8, use charm packs, Moda candy, and layer cakes to mix and match for a scrappy version. Fat quarters will yield more repetitive blocks.

    For EACH Butterfly and 4-Patch block, you will need:

    Fabric 1/Background

    • (1) 6″ square
    • (4) 2¾” squares

    Fabric 2/Butterflies

    • (1) 6″ square

    Fabric 3/4-Patch A

    • (2) 2¾” squares

    Fabric 4/4-Patch B

    • (2) 2¾” squares

    Block Dimensions: 9″ x 9″ (finished) / 9½” w x 9½” h (unfinished)

    Note that the above fabric requirements won’t yield a completely scrappy block. Mix and match the block components in the row for a truly scrappy look.

    You will need an additional (5) strips of background fabric measuring 2½” x 9½” to complete the row.

    Suggested precuts: Fat quarter bundle, charm packs, layer cakes

    1.  Create quarter square triangles/hourglass blocks for the butterflies. Mark a pencil line along the diagonal of 1 background 6″ square. Place right sides together with a butterfly 6″ square. Sew a ¼” seam on each side of the pencil line. Trim along the opposite diagonal and then trim each piece on the pencil line to create 4 hourglass units.

    Piece hourglass units together to create (2) 5″ unfinished butterfly blocks. (Mix and match butterflies between blocks in the row for a scrappier look.)

    make 2 per block

    2. Make 4-patch units. Join 1 background 2¾” square with 1 print 2¾” square to create a 2-patch unit. Press to the darker fabric. Repeat to make one additional 2-patch unit. Flip one 2-patch unit so the background fabric is opposite the print fabric and sew a ¼” seam. Press to the darker fabric.

    Make (2) 4-patch units for this block. They should measure 5″ unfinished.

    3. Join butterfly and 4-patch blocks to complete the block as shown.

    4. Make 5 more blocks to complete the row. Add (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips between blocks to make the row measure 64″ wide (finished)

    1 row, measuring 64″ x 9″

    Block design by Trish Poolson of {Notes of Sincerity}

    Trifle Dish: Jewel Block

    To make LAYER 5, use fat eighths and layer cakes. For a scrappy version, use a mix of charm square prints for the hourglass and flying geese parts of the block.

    For EACH Jewel block, you will need:

    Fabric 1/Background:

    • (2) 8½” x 1″ rectangles
    • (2) 9½” x 1″ rectangles
    • (2) 2½” x 2½” squares

    Fabric 2/Jewel:

    • (2) 6½” x 2½” rectangles
    • (2) 4½” x 2″ rectangles
    • (2) 2½” x 2½” squares (for HSTs)
    • (4) 2″ x 2″ squares

    Fabric 3/Flying Geese: 

    • (2) 3½” x 2″ rectangles

    Fabric 4,5/Hourglass:

    • (2) 4½” x 4½” squares

    You will also need (2) 2½” x 8½” strips for the ends of the row to make it finish at 64″ wide

    Block Dimensions: 10″ w x 8″ h (finished) / 10½” w x 8½” h (unfinished) 

    Suggested precuts: Fat eighths, layer cakes OR charm packs

    Use a scant ¼” on all seam allowances. See the Scant Rant series for details.

    1. Make Hourglass/quarter square triangle units with 4½” x 4½” prints. Use (2) 4½” x 4½” print squares to make (2) Hourglass units. (Only one Hourglass unit is needed per block – but the extra Hourglass can be used in the row.) Label one square Fabric A and one square Fabric B. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the Fabric A square. Layer the Fabric A square atop the Fabric B square with right sides together. Sew pairs together, stitching ¼” on each side of the drawn line. Cut the pair apart along the drawn line to make two half-square triangle (HST) units. Without moving the HST units from the mat, cut along the opposite diagonal. Match pairs of triangles together to sew the Hourglass block.

    The Hourglass block should be trimmed down to: 3½” x 3½” unfinished.

    2. Make Flying Geese Units. Use (2) 2″ x 2″ jewel squares and (1) 3½” x 2″ print rectangle to make (1) Flying Goose unit. Label the squares Fabric A and the rectangle Fabric B. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the Fabric A squares. Layer the Fabric A square atop the Fabric B rectangle with right sides together. Stitch on the drawn line. Cut the excess ¼” away from the drawn line as shown. Press the unit open. Place the remaining Fabric A square atop the unit from the previous step as shown. Sew on the drawn line again. Cut the excess ¼” away from the drawn line as shown. Press that triangle open.

    Make 2 Flying Geese Units. Unfinished Block Size: 3½” x 2″ / Finished Block Size: 3″ x 1½”

    3. Make four half-square triangle (HST) units by pairing 2 background squares with 2 jewel squares. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the background square. Layer the background square atop the jewel square with right sides together. Sew pairs together, stitching ¼” on each side of the drawn line. Cut the pair apart along the drawn line to make two half-square triangle (HST) units. Repeat the process, pairing the remaining background square with the remaining jewel square. Make 4 HST blocks total. The HSTs should be trimmed down to: 2″ (unfinished size).

    4. Layout the Block. Layout the Hourglass unit, 2 Flying Geese units, the 6½” x 2 1/3″ rectangles, the 4 HSTs, and the 4½” x 2″ rectangles as shown.

    5. Sew the Flying Geese units to the left and right sides of the Hourglass block. Then sew the HST blocks to the top and bottom of the 4½” x 2″ jewel rectangles.

    6. Next sew the 6½” x 2½” jewel rectangles to the top and bottom of the Hourglass unit.

    7. Sew the HST/jewel rectangle units to the left and right sides of the unit from step 6 to create the “Jewel” shape.

    8. Finally, attach the background border strips by first sewing the 9½” x 1″ strips to the top and bottom of the block. Then sew the 8 1/2″ x 1″ background strips to the left and right sides of the block.

    9. Make 6 blocks to complete the row. Add 2½” x 8½” border strips to each end of the row to make it 64″ (finished) wide.

    1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″

    Block design by AnneMarie Chany of {Gen X Quilters}

    Trifle Dish: Pinwheels

    To make LAYER 3, use charm squares to create a scrappy version. One layer cake and a fat quarter will make a non-scrappy version.

    For EACH Pinwheel block, you will need:
    Fabric 1/Background: 4 – 5″ squares
    Fabric 2,3,4,5/Pinwheels: 4 – 5″ squares (mixed prints or cut from one or two prints)

    Suggested precuts for scrappy version: fat quarters, layer cake

    1. Create 4 half square triangle (HST) units from 2 charm squares

    • With right sides together, sew a scant ¼” seam on each side of the charm squares. 
    • Trim along the diagonal of the HST unit to create 4 half-square triangles.
    • Press to the darker fabric.
    • Square up each HST to 2½”.

    Make 16 sets of HSTs per block.

    2. Lay out your block pieces as shown.

    Piece together in rows.

    Press well.
    3. Repeat steps 1-2 to make 7 more blocks (8 total).

    4. Join 8 blocks to form Layer 3.

    1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″

    Block design by Amanda Castor of {Material Girl Quilts}

    Trifle Dish: Orange Peel

    To make LAYER 2, use layer cakes and yardage to create a two-color version. One layer cake will make one block. Alternatively, use charm squares to create a scrappy version.

    For EACH Orange Peel block, you will need:
    Fabric 1/Background: 4 – 5″ squares
    Fabric 2/Peels: 4 – 5″ squares

    You will also need:
    Applique thread (hand or machine)
    Applique needles (for hand applique)
    Basting glue
    Template plastic

    Suggested precuts: fat quarters, layer cake, charm pack

    This block can be made using machine or hand applique techniques. 

    1. Create template pieces for the orange peels. See Printer Friendly Version at the end of this post to download the orange peel template file. Cut out a total of 32 orange peels for the row.

      Tip: Be sure to label your template with permanent marker so you can use them again in another project.

      2. Cut out background fabric. You will need 4 squares for each block, cut them to 5″ to allow yourself some wiggle room for the applique.

      3. Applique one orange peel to each 5″ square, using the applique template as a placement guide. Use your preferred method of applique. Make a total of 32 orange peel blocks. Trim to 4½” square.

      4. Join 4 orange peel blocks together to make one complete block. The unfinished block should measure 8½” square.

      4. Join 8 blocks to form Layer 2.

      1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″

      Block design by Leila Gardunia of {Sewn by Leila}

      Trifle Dish: Cherry Spools and Lady Fingers

      To make LAYER 1, use fat eighths to create a two-color version. Two fat eighths will yield two blocks. Alternatively, use a variety of precuts to create a scrappy version.

      For EACH Cherry Spool block, you will need:
      Fabric 1/Spool:

      • (2) 2½” squares 
      • (2) 2″ x 8″ strips

      Fabric 2/Leaves:

      • (6) 2½” squares

      Fabric 3/Cherries:

      • (4) 2″ squares

      Fabric 4/Background:

      • (8) 2½” squares
      • (2 ) 2″ x 8″ strips
      • (9) 2″ squares

      You will need (6) 2½” x 11½” strips for sashing between blocks (Lady Fingers)

      Finished block measures 11″ square

      Tip: use a mix of low value prints for the background if desired

      Suggested precuts for scrappy version: fat quarters, layer cake, charm pack

      1. Create half square triangle (HST) units

      • Draw a line on the wrong side of each 2½” background square. 
      • Pair each 2½” background square with spool squares and leaf squares (a total of 8 pairs of background fabric + print), right sides together. 
      • Lining up the edge of your foot with the pencil line, sew a scant ¼” seam on each side of the line. 
      • Cut on the pencil line and press to the darker fabric. 
      • Square up each HST to 2″.

        Make 12 sets of background/leaves HSTs and 4 sets of background/spool HSTs per block.

      2. Lay out your block pieces for the center as shown.

      Piece together in rows.

      Add background side strips and spool top and bottom. Press well.

      3. Repeat step 2 to make 4 more blocks (5 total).

      4. Join 5 blocks and 6 lady fingers together to form Layer 1.

      1 row, measuring 64″ x 11″

      Block design by Robin Nelson of {}

      Scissor Case


      2) contrasting  5″ charm squares
      1) 5 1/2″ square of batting
      1) 12″ length of skinny ribbon  1/4″ or smaller
      1) Button
      thread that matches
      walking foot if you have one

      Place the two charm squares right sides together on of the batting square. Centering so there is a little batting all the way around the charm squares.

      Start sewing 1″ from the top right hand corner. Continue to sew all the way around to the top left hand corner. Sew in 1″.  this will leave an opening at the top.

      Remove as much batting as you can from the seam allowance all 4
      sides, by carefully cutting it close to the stitch without cutting into it.

      Clip all 4 corners to reduce bulk.

      Turn inside out between the two charm squares.

      Use a chop stick to make the corners nice and crisp.

      Press the opening 1/4″ into the seam allowance.

      On just 2 sides start quilting with a stitch 1/8″ from the edge and then move in 1/2″ at a time. Make 7 lines.

      Fold the ribbon in half and place the fold 1/2″ from the top right hand side on what will be the body of your scissor case.

      Fold in half with the body to the inside to form a triangle.

      Sew 1/8″ seam down the edge with the ribbon.

      at the end point sew back and forth 4 or 5 times about 1/2″ from the point.

      cut off the tip 1/8″ away from the seam.

      turn inside out and with your chop stick force the point in place.

      Turn the top down and sew the button in the middle of the triangle area

      Insert the embroidery scissors, bring the tails of the ribbon through the scissors and tie under the button to keep the scissors from falling out.

      They go fast so make them in lots of color combos. Makes a great gift for your sewing friends.

      Dawn Cornell

      Jelly Turnover Quilt

      Hello! I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts.  It’s an honor for me to be with you today on Moda Bake Shop.  I love working with pre-cut fabrics.  When it comes to creating quilts, the possibilities are endless!  When designing this quilt, I thought it would be fun to use a jelly-roll for the sashing and candy squares for the gem-stone corners–after all, they are already pre-cut to the same width.  All that was left was to decide what type of blocks to use.  Since charm squares create half-square triangles so readily, this quilt came together like “Peanut-butter & Jelly”–hence its name, the Jelly Turnover Quilt.

      To create this project you will need:
      • One packages of 5″ charm squares.  (I used Grant Park)  This quilt uses 40 print squares.
      • One packages of 5″ bella solids charm squares.  This quilt uses 40 white squares.
      • Three packages of 2 1/2″ candy squares for the gem stone corners on the sashing. (I also used Grant Park).  This quilt uses 99 squares.
      • One 2 1/2″ jelly roll for the sashing (I also used bella solid white).  This quilt uses 23 strips.
      • One yard navy blue fabric for the binding. 

        To create the half-square triangles (HSTs):

        • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each white Bella solid charm square.
        • Layer one white charm square on top of one print charm square with right sides facing.
        • Sew down both sides of the drawn line.

        • Cut down the drawn line and press seams towards the darker print fabric.
        • Square all HSTs to measure exactly 4 1/2 inches. 
        Use your favorite method of choice for this.  I like using a small square ruler.  Basically, you are trimming off the factory-created pinked/serrated edges.
        • Yield: 80 HSTs.

          To create the sashing:

          • Select twenty-three 2 1/2 inch jelly roll strips.
          • Cut the 2 1/2 inch white strips from the jelly roll into 4 1/2 inch sections.  Yield: 16 sashing rectangles measuring 2 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches per jelly roll length.
          Quick tip:  It is easy to cut several jelly-roll strips at once by laying 5 or 6 strips on your cutting board at a time.  Then, simply make the same rotary cuts that you would doing just one strip at a time.
          • This quilt requires 178 of these rectangles.

            To sew the vertical sashing units:

            • Select five 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch strips and five 2 1/2″ candy squares.  Sew these end to end to create a vertical sashing strip.  Press all seams towards the sashing to reduce bulk.  Create 18 of these strips.

            • Sew one horizontal sashing row for the bottom of the quilt.  It is comprised of nine 2 1/2 inch candy squares and eight 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch sashing strips.

            Note: This quilt is sewn in four quadrants–one quadrant at a time to ensure the proper placement of the HST unit to make the echo effect.  Each quadrant uses 20 HSTs.

            General directions for sewing all four quadrants:

            • Take twenty HSTs and  twenty 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangles.
            • Chain-sew the 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangle to the top of the HST.  Check the orientation of the HST you are working on as they differ in all four quadrants.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.

            Note, the HST rotates depending on which quadrant of the quilt you are working on.
            • Sew this units into four columns of 5 units down.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.
            • Add four vertical sashing strips to the side of each of the four 5-unit columns.  Refer to the quadrant diagram to check if it is the right or left-hand side.  If pressed correctly, these seams should nest.  Pin-match the intersections and sew with the HSTs on top to avoid blunting the points.  Also press these seams towards the sashing.  This will enable the quilt top to lie flat.
            Sew the columns together with HSTs on top so their points do not get blunted.
            • Sew these four columns together to create one quadrant.

              The upper left-hand quadrant HST orientation is: 

              The upper right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

              The lower left-hand quadrant HST orientation is

              The lower right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

              Use this assembly diagram to add the four quadrant panels together.

              • First, add the top left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand upper quadrant.
              • Second, add the bottom left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand lower quadrant.
              • Third, sew the top and bottom halves together.
              • Fourth and final, add the long horizontal sashing strip to the bottom to finish your quilt top.
              Assembly Diagram

              The finished quilt top diagram:

              The finished quilt top measures 50 inches by 62 inches.

              I quilted this using a lasso edge-to-edge style.

              Shannon Mower

              Charm Party Baby Quilt + Bonus Pillow

              Hi!  I’m Julie from Today I’m sharing a Charm Party baby quilt with matching bonus pillow.  I’m someone who likes to get as much as I can out of my fabric. The half square triangles leftover from the quilt top are perfect for creating a bonus project like a pillow or even a doll quilt.  I would love to see your version if you make one!

              2 Charm Packs – Print (Chance of Flowers)
              1 Charm Pack – Solid (Bella Solid Snow)
              1 1/4 Yards for Backing (Chance of Flowers, Cloud Flower Garden)
              1/2 Yard for Binding (Chance of Flowers, Cloud Flower Garden) 

              To make the 16″ Pillow Cover you’ll need:
              2 Yards of Trim
              1 Fat Quarter (Chance of Flowers, Rose Sandy’s Solids)
              18″ Zipper
              Pillow Form

              Gather up your fabrics.  How pretty are these?


              • 64 Prints for Quilt Blocks
              • 17 Prints for Quilt Border
              • 32 Solid Charms

              Choose 4 different charms:

              Take 2 of those charms and pair with a solid, right sides facing.  Mark a diagonal line.

              Stitch along your mark and sew another line 1/2″ over.

              Cut between those lines.  Set the smaller half aside.

               Press open and arrange your HST (half square triangle) with the other 2 charms.

              Stitch together.

              Make 16 ‘mini-blocks’.

              Take 4 mini blocks and form a large block.

              Make 4 large blocks.

              Sew the 4 large blocks together.

              Take the 17 Charms we set aside earlier.

              1 Charm into quarters (4) 2.5″ squares
              16 Charms in half  (32) 2.5″ x 5″ rectangles

              Take 8 rectangles and sew end to end creating a border.   Make 4 borders.

              Choose 2 of the borders and sew a square onto each end.

              Attach the 2 border strips that do not have the square end charms.

              Attach the two border strips that have the squares on each end.

              You have completed the quilt top!

              BONUS PILLOW

              (OR you can also use the leftover HST’s to make a matching doll quilt)

              Pull 25 HST’s leftover from making the quilt top.

              We will be trimming these into 3.75″ squares.
              If you don’t have a special HST ruler, you can use this method for trimming your squares.

              Using Washi or masking tape, mark a line from corner to corner on the 3.75″ line.
              (Make sure you are using the squared end of the ruler and one side isn’t an extra 1/2″ wide)

              Lay your HST (still folded in half) with the seam line (NOT the raw edge) along the 3.75″ mark.


              Press open creating a perfect 3.75″ square.  Repeat for the rest of the HST’s.

              Stitch together in 5 rows of 5 using any layout you like.  Quilt if desired.  Trim to 16.75″ square.

              Sew decorative trim along the edge with the decorative part facing the center of the pillow.

              Lay your zipper facing down, pillow front facing up, and stitch in place.

              Cut your fat quarter into a 16.75″ square (or the exact size of your pillow front).

              Lay your back piece facing up (edges aligned with the pillow front edges), zipper facing down, and stitch. 

              Open your zipper half way.   Lay your pieces right sides facing.  Pin all around the edges and and stitch, being careful not to catch your trim along the way.  Zig-zag or overlock the raw edges to prevent fraying.

              Pillow cover is done!

              40″ Square Baby Quilt
              16″ Pillow Cover

              If you make a quilt I would love to see it!
              Julie Hirt

              Sew Busy! Organizer

              Hello!  I’m Polly Monica from Aunt Polly’s Porch!  I’m so happy to be posting here today at the always awesome Moda Bake Shop!  I fell sewwww in LOVE with Moda’s Sewing Box collection and knew it would make some fun things for organizing any sewing room!  I hope you think so, too!  Let’s get busy making these eight sewing projects which include a sewing machine cover, a sewing machine mat, a versatile sewing caddy for your ironing board or armchair, a tub cover, a tie on pin cushion, a chatelaine, a square pin cushion and needle book.

              1 Sewing Box charm pack

              Sewing Box Charm Pack by Gina Martin for Moda
              ½ yard coordinating print # 1 (notions print white)

              FABRIC SEWING BOX Sewing Notions Main Print Moda
              ½ yard coordinating print # 2 (tape measure multi)

              Sewing Box - Gina Martin - Moda
              ½ yard coordinating fabric #3 (pins lime)

              Sewing Box - Gina Martin - Moda
              1 yard coordinating print #4 (buttons blue)

              Sewing Box, Moda Fabric, Gina Martin, Buttons, 1/2 Yard
              1.5 yards fusible fleece

              3.5 yards Jumbo rick rack
              Assorted colors and sizes of buttons

              ABBREVIATIONS and NOTES-
              All seam allowances are ¼” unless directed differently.
              RST = right sides together
              RSO = right sides out
              WOF = width of fabric (selvage to selvage)
              Sewing Machine Cover Instruction

              My sewing machine sits down in a Horne sewing table and it’s measurements are- 16” from right to left, 8 ½” from top of machine to tabletop, and 7 ½” deep looking at the machine from the side. (If your machine sits on top of a table, the height will be taller than mine!) You will need to measure your machine and adjust the measurements as necessary.
              Take charm pack and cut all pieces in half, giving you two stacks of 42 pieces – 2 ½” by 5” rectangles.


              Set one stack aside, now cut the other stack in half, giving you two stacks of 42 pieces – 2 ½” by 2 ½” squares.


              Set one stack aside, take remaining stack of 2 ½” squares and select 16 for each side of the cover.
              Lay them out in two rows of eight squares each (16 for each side).
              From the leftover squares, select 4 for a four patch that will be made into a square pin cushion
              And select 5 squares to be sewn into a row for a long skinny pin cushion.


              Sew the two rows of squares for one side together- press seams in one direction on the first row and in the opposite direction for the second row so that the seams will nestle together when joined. The resulting long seam can be pressed to one side or open.


              For the center panel on the cover, look at your fabric # 1. If the printed design is directional, like mine was, and you want it to be right side up on both sides of the cover, then you will cut two pieces that are 8 ¾” by 16 ½”. With RST, with the top of the design on BOTH pieces at the top, sew that 16 ½” long seam.


              Now your design should be right side up on both sides of that center seam. If your print is NOT directional then you need no center seam and can cut one piece 17” by 16 ½”.
              Sew one pieced set on each 16 ½” end. Press those seams toward the center panel.

              Cut a piece of fusible fleece and your fabric # 2 for the batting / backing 18 ½” by 27”. Fuse the fleece onto the wrong side of either front or backing. With RSO, pin the sandwich and quilt as desired. I just did an all-over meander design.


              If you wish to add rick rack or other trim, do it now! Some folks just stitch down the center of rick rack, which is fine with the narrow ones, but for the jumbo size, I like to sew close to the edge, down each side. Then trim off excess batting/backing.


              For the ties, cut one 2 ½” by WOF strip of your fabric #3. Press it in half lengthwise.


              Then open it up and fold the two long raw edges into the center fold and press again.


              Topstitch closely down each long edge.


              Trim off selvage ends, cut it into 4 equal pieces. Lay the cover over your machine and decide where you want the ties to go


              and baste them onto the backing side with the raw end edge even with the side of the cover.


              For the binding, measure the perimeter of your cover and add 8”. Bind the edges your way! Everybody has their own way of binding . I cut my strips 2 ½” by WOF. I join the strips with a diagonal seam, press in half lengthwise, and sew onto the front of the quilt with a SCANT 3/8” seam allowance, flip binding over the seam to the back and hand sew it down. But, the binding can be done your own way!


              If you wish to add a handle at the top of the cover, cut two 2 ¾ ” by 7 ¼”pieces of your fabric #2. Cut one piece of fusible fleece 2 ¾” by 7 ¼”, and fuse onto the wrong side of one fabric piece. If you wish to add rick rack or trim on the handle, sew it onto that piece now.


              I wanted my handle to be a bit more narrow at the ends, so I folded the pieces in half and cut off the corners- see pix below.


              With RST, sew a ¼” seam all around the handle edges but leave an opening at least 2” to turn it through!
              Turn the handle RSO through that opening and hand sew the opening closed. Topstitch 3/8” inch from all edges.

              Measure the cover to find the center and mark it with a pin. Center the handle over that center, but build in a gap!


              Sew through all layers, attaching the handle to the cover at each end.


              I LOVE adding buttons to projects and especially stacking different sized buttons!!


              Add them now wherever you want!! You could even add them down the middle of the rick rack, too!!
              All done! Now stand back and admire your creation!!


              Small Square and Tie-On Pin Cushions

              Remember that fourpatch and row of five squares you selected and set aside back when you were picking out the squares for your cover front and back?


              If you didn’t sew them together, do it now! Then lay them RST on top of a scrap of your fabric #1 which will be your backing, and cut around them.


              Sew around all sides of the fourpatch, leaving a small opening on one side to turn it through.
              Clip the seam allowance diagonally across the corners, but not too close!
              This will reduce the bulk there and make those corner points look perfect!


              Turn it RSO, fill it with your choice of polyfil or crushed walnut filler. I like the latter for pin cushions!!


              I get it at the local pet shop- it’s cheap and is actually made for the bottom of small pet cages.
              I save my twill tape ties from all Moda jelly rolls and bundles, so I cut my ties for the Tie-On pin cushion from one of those ties. If you don’t have any, you can make ties like the ones you made for the cover from fabric scraps or use ribbon you have in your stash. To determine how long to cut your ties, measure your machine as shown below.


              Add 6” to that measurement. My machine measured 24” + 6” = 30”. So I cut a piece of the Moda twill tape 30” then cut that in half. Insert one end of each tie between the long skinny 5 patch and its backing.


              Then sew all around the edges, but remember to leave a small opening to turn it through.


              Turn it RSO through that opening, pulling out the ties, too. Fill both pin cushions al full as you like. On the skinny one, first fill it only partially up to the second seam line. Stitch through all layers at that seam between the second and third square to facilitate it fitting snugly around the corner on your machine, then fill it the rest of the way.


              Sew the openings closed with tiny stitches.


              Add stacked buttons in the center of the four patch pin cushion and at the sewn down seam on the tie-on pin cushion.


              Voila!! Done!! Yaaaay!!


              Tie the Skinny pin cushion onto your machine!! Add pins!

              Sewing Machine Mat

              Cut a 16 ½” by 16 ½” piece of your fabric #4. Grab your stack of 2 ½” by 5” charm pack pieces, and select 8 pieces. Sew them together along the 5” sides. Press the seams open. Now cut this strip in half lengthwise giving you two strips that are 2 ½” by 16 ½”.


              Sew one strip on each side of the fabric square you cut above.


              Select 10 more strips, sew them together as described above, press seams open and cut in half. Sew one of the strips across the back of the piece. Set the other strip aside for now.


              Now, select 10 more strips for the tall pocket layer, sew them together as above, press seams open, then lay that piece on top of your fabric # 4, and cut a lining strip that exact same size. With RST, sew down one long side. Turn RSO, press and top stitch 3/8” from seam edge.


              Lay this pocket strip across the bottom of the mat with raw edges even all around and pin, then baste these raw edges together.


              Now, stitch through all layers wherever you want to create individual pockets. Make sure to backstitch at the top edge of each pocket seam.


              I made all my pockets the same size by stitching through all layers on every other seam line.


              Next, take the half sized strip you set aside above that has 10 squares and cut out a lining for it from your fabric #4, exactly as you did it above. With RST, sew across the top edge, turn it RSO, press and top stitch it 3/8” from edge.


              Lay it over the tall pocket strip on the lower edge of the mat, creating a second row of smaller pockets.
              Baste the raw edges together on sides and bottom. Then sew through all layers again at seams to create the pockets.


              In the photo above, the orange pins show where the tall pockets were stitched and the purple pins show where I chose to sew my smaller pockets. You can sew yours wherever you want!
              Use this top to cut a piece of fusible fleece the same size. Iron it onto the wrong side of the finished top. Cut the backing from your fabric #4 just a bit bigger all around than the top. Pin the sandwich and quilt as desired, but don’t quilt through the pockets!!


              If you want to add rickrack or trim, sew it on now!!
              Trim the edges even and bind as desired using your fabric #3!


              Hand sew the binding to the back of the mat! Taadaa!!
              Done!! YAY!! Now set your machine on it and fill up those awesome pockets!!

              Versatile Caddy

              Believe it or not, you still have some leftover 2 ½ strips from your charm pack, and you have scraps from your yardage we’ve been using, which you can cut into a few more 2 ½” by 5” strips if you want more variety!
              Select 3 strips for pockets on one end of the caddy and 4 strips for the thread catcher on the other end of the caddy. Sew them together, cut a piece of fusible fleece for the four strip set, and fuse it on the back. Lay them both on your fabric #4, and cut a matching lining piece for each.


              With RST, sew one long side together on both, turn both RSO, press seams and topstitch 3/8” from seam edge. On the four strip piece with the fleece inside, quilt it as desired.


              Set both aside for the moment!
              Cut 2 pieces 6 ½” by 18” from fabric # 4, and one piece the same size from fusible fleece.


              Fuse the fleece on the wrong side of one piece. Layer RSO, then quilt as desired, creating the caddy base.


              Align the three strip piece at one end and baste the raw edges on all three sides.


              Then stitch through all layers on the 2 seam lines to create 3 pockets. Backstitch at the top of each pocket seam.


              Align then baste the SIDES of the four strip set at the other end of the caddy base. Then pin the center bottom of the four strip piece to the center of the bottom of the caddy base and then make two small pleats as you pin the rest of the bottom edge of the four strip piece to fit the base.


              Then baste across the bottom edge.


              If you wish to add rickrack or trim, add it now!


              Trim edges even and bind with fabric #3. Set aside.
              Select 6 leftover 2 ½” by 5” strips for the caddy pin cushion.
              Cut them in half creating 12 squares 2 ½” by 2 ½”.


              Arrange them in two groups of 6 and sew each group together, leaving a small opening in the center seam of one group to use to turn it through later.


              Place the two pieces RST, and using a ruler and pen, draw a line 1” in from each corner point and trim those corners off.


              Now, sew all around the edges. Turn it RSO through the opening in the bottom seam.


              Fill the pin cushion with polyfil or crushed walnuts and handstitch the opening closed.


              I cut an 8” piece of rickrack and hand stitched/gathered one long edge and drew the thread up to create a ruffled flower.


              I hand stitched it to the center of the pin cushion and added some stacked buttons, as well.


              You can embellish your pin cushion as desired! Center the pin cushion in the middle of the caddy and hand stitch it through the back side to the caddy. YESSSSSSSS! All done!!


              Now you can use it on the end of your ironing board and on an armchair in front of the TV!!

              Tub Cover

              I wanted a tub to sit on my sewing table for sewing tools and materials. I had a large plastic 16 ounce Cool Whip tub container that was the right size! The circumference was 18” and the height was 5”.


              Using the stack of leftover 2 ½” by 2 ½” square charm pack pieces, select 20 pieces and arrange and sew them together in two rows of ten squares.


              If you want to add rickrack or trim, do it now!! I added rickrack down the center seam line.
              Cut and fuse a matching piece of fleece to the back of it, then quilt it as desired. I grid-quilted it.


              Cut a matching piece of fabric #4 for the lining, but make one end about an inch longer. Also, just a note here that for backings and lining and even batting/fleece, you can piece smaller scraps together when needed. I save small pieces of batting and connect them with fusible batting tape.


              You will see this tape on the back of this tub cover!


              Another tip is to trim off corners of seam allowance at points, as shown in photo below, to make them turn RSO better.


              Sew two long sides and one short end seams- leaving open the short end with the longer lining piece.
              Turn the cover RSO, topstitch 3/8” from the edges and fold up the longer lining end to enclose the raw edges and stitch it closed.


              Pin the cover TIGHTLY around the tub, then slide it off. Sew it closed on the topstitch line of the finished end. I added a stack of buttons for embellishment, then slid it back onto the tub.


              Another little project complete!! Yahoo!!

              Sewing Chatelaine

              Line up 18 to 22 of your leftover 2 ½” squares in a long row. (Don’t forget you have some yardage scraps you can cut into 2 ½” squares to supplement your leftovers and provide a bit more variety.)


              Sew them together, press the seams open then press it in half lengthwise


              and use the same technique you used above to create the sewing machine cover ties to make a long topstitched piece.


              Fold in one short raw edged end as you topstitch it, and slip in a 2” loop created from a bit of stash ribbon or thinner rick rack as I did.


              Knot the other raw edged end.


              Set aside for now. Select a green 2 ½” square, fold it in half then in half again and cut into a petal shape using pinking shears if you have them,


              if not, just use regular scissors. Cut carefully from between two petals just to the center of the piece. Set aside for the moment.


              Select 8 more 2 ½” squares and sew them into four patches. Lay them RST, and trim off the bottom corners creating a triangular shape with the narrow end at the bottom. This will become your strawberry shaped pin cushion. Sew all around leaving the top open. Using needle and doubled thread, sew a gathering stitch around the open top edge.


              Turn RSO, and stuff with polyfil. Push the knotted end of the finished strip down into the polyfil and draw up the thread- gathering the raw edge tightly inside around the strip. Secure it with stitches and a secure hidden knot.


              Wrap the leaf piece around the top of the strawberry and hand stitch it there.


              Add some pins and needles, if desired!!


              Sew on a small button a few inches in from the loop at the other end, so you can secure your small scissors there!! Well done! Another part of the set is complete!! You can wear your chatelaine around your neck while doing hand sewing in your favorite chair in front of the TV and never lose your scissors between the cushions again!!


              After all this, I still had a few leftover 2 ½” by 5” strips, and I cut two more from yardage scraps.
              Sew the four strips together. Cut and fuse a matching piece of fleece to the wrong side. Quilt as desired. Add trim or rickrack if you desire. Cut a 4” piece of stash ribbon or thin rickrack, fold into a loop and baste on the center of the back.


              Cut a matching piece of fabric #4, or other yardage scrap, for the lining. With RST, sew around the edges leaving a small opening for turning.


              Turn it RSO, hand sew the opening closed then topstitch around all edges.


              Cut three 4” by 6 ¾” pieces of scrap batting .
              Draw a line down the center with a heat erasable pen.


              Line up this drawn line with the center seam of the cover.


              Carefully flip it over and sew down the center seam from the cover side and through all thicknesses.


              Erase the drawn line on the batting with a hot iron. Fold the book on that center seam line.
              Add a button or two on the front allowing it to be secured with the loop from the back!


              Add some needles inside and that’s it! You have completed the set of eight projects in this pattern collection!!


              Pat yourself on the back and enjoy using your new sewing room creations!!



              Eight sewing room essentials including a Sewing machine cover, a square pin cushion, a tie on pin cushion, a versatile caddy, a sewing machine mat, a tub cover, a chatelaine, and a needle book!
              Thanks ever so much for trying out these projects! You may have spotted my sweet Westie – Yogi, in some of the photos!


              Come visit us soon at my blog-!!

              We’d love to have you come and visit!!
              Polly Monica