Snuggles Plus Quilt

I am so happy to be returning to the Moda Bake Shop with this quick-to-make but amazing little quilt! I blog over at, and I would love you to stop over and visit!

I have to say that I LOVED working with the Snuggles fabric by Moda.  It was a dream to use and my quilter loved it too!  This turned out a perfect size at 45″ X 50″ to use as a baby quilt or a lap quilt. You could make it larger with just a few adjustments too.

I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did.  Let’s get started!

  • 2-Sphere Charm Packs (1540PP)
  • 2 yards 60″ Snuggles (60000 43) Aqua For top and backing
  • 1/2 yard Sphere (Teal 1541 20) for binding 
  • 1/4 yard Bella Solids Feather (9900 127 ) This is a really, really light gray.
  • Cotton Batting
  • Thread 

  • Choose 48 Charms for the center of the quilt.  Ten of these will be used to make the plus blocks. 
  • Choose 22 additional blocks for the 2 side borders, 11 for each side.  I chose to leave most of the yellow out because I wanted an icy looking quilt to go with my aqua Snuggles. 
  • Cut Twenty 1.5″ x 6″ strips from your Feather solid.  These will be used to make the + in the plus blocks.  

Making the Plus blocks:

After you have chosen your 10 charm squares, cut them in half.  You should have two halves that measure 2.5″ x 5″.

Lay one 1.5″ x 6″ strip between the 2 cut halves of the charm square

Sew strip to one half of the charm square

Trim the solid strip even with both sides of the charm square, it should be 5″.

Sew the other half of the charm you cut to this first unit making sure to align edges.
Cut the charm in half again at the 2.5″ alignment. (don’t worry about the other measurement)

Lay another 1.5″ x 6″ strip of your solid between your two cut halves. Sew to one of these halves.

Trimming even with the edge of the charm.  Don’t worry that they are not 5″ at this point, you will be trimming them up soon.  Sew this to the matching half and press.

Trim your plus block to a finished size of 5″.  You can see that when I used my 5.5″ ruler the plus lines up beautifully and made the trimming a snap!

This is what your finished plus blocks should look like.  I chose 10 plus blocks but you can make more if you like or use none at all for a really quick quilt!  If you make more you may need a little more of your solid!

I like to chain piece so I cut all my pairs and lined them up to sew at one time.

Yeah for chain piecing!!

Now comes the fun part!  Using a design wall begin to lay out your rows.  I changed mine around a LOT!  That’s part of the charm (get it?)

Once you are happy with the placement you can sew your charms into rows.

I pressed all my seams open so it would lie as flat as possible when paired with the Snuggles.

Next I cut the Snuggles that would alternate with the rows of charm squares. First I cut Five 5″ strips. Then  I measured my rows and they were 36.5″.  I then cut my Snuggles to fit my rows.  Please measure yours before you cut and use that measurement.

Once you have all your Snuggles cut to fit your quilt rows you can begin to pin your rows together and sew.

I pinned at every seam and with one in between.  I was not certain how the Snuggles would be to work with but it was just great!

Start with a charm square row then a Snuggles row.  There will be 5 of these sets.  The last row will be a charm square row. I wanted this to be easy for my long arm quilter to quilt so I thought I should not have the more stretchy fabric on the outside of the quilt.  Although she did tell me that the Snuggles was much easier to work with than some of the other comparable fabrics.

Once you have all your charms sewn to your snuggles you will have 5 of these sets.  Sew them together to make the center of your top, making sure to begin and end with a row of charms.

I put the top back on the design wall and added the charms I was planning on using for the borders in place.  This allowed me to move squares as necessary until I was happy with the final placement.

Alternately you could do this when you lay out the top too.  Either way works!  Once you are happy with the placement of your side borders sew the charms into a row (remember they will go on the quilt vertically just in case you are using directional fabrics!)

Pin your borders to your top being careful to match the intersecting seams as you do so.  Sew your borders to your top.

Your top is now complete and ready to sandwich and quilt!
I chose large intersecting circles to echo the design of the Sphere fabric. 
  • For binding cut your strips from the teal Sphere fabric at 2.5″ (or as you desire).  
  • Join the strips, and bind using your favorite binding method.
  • Quilt, bind and ENJOY!  You just finished a great little quilt!

This pattern makes a 45″ x 50″ quilt.

I hope you have enjoyed my tutorial.  I would love to hear what you think!
I really enjoyed making this quilt and would love you to stop by my blog and visit!
In addition, I had a lot of fun tromping around in the snow with my friend, Robin, getting photos of this little quilt too.  = )
If you make one of these I would love to see it!  Please add it to my Flickr group or look me up on Instagram (mamaspark59) and post a photo there so I can see it!

~ XOP~
Pamela Lincoln

Chenille Baby Blanket

I am so happy and excited to be back at the Moda Bake Shop to show you this wonderful Chenille Blanket.  My name is Pamela Lincoln and I blog over at Mama Spark’s World.  I am always on the look out for a great baby shower or new born gift and this is perfect!  With a few simple ingredients and a few hours you will have a fantastic gift.  I have some other examples over on my blog too if you want to see more.  Are you ready to get started?

2 Charm Packs of Oink-A-Doodle-Moo 30520LC  (I love this fabric line!!)
1 yard windsor blue marble flannel F9880-14
1 yard orange marble flannel F6727
2 one yard cuts of hot red marble flannel F9881-36
1/2 yard denim blue horseshoe fabric (for binding) 30526-17

Basting needle and thread
Masking Tape
Chenille scissors are really helpful too

The very first thing you need to know is do NOT pre-wash your fabrics. This is pretty important as in the end you want the flannel to fuzz up. So no washing!

You will be making the back of your blanket first.  You will use most of your 2 charm packs for this.  Lay out your squares so you are happy with the design you are using.  (Yes I used my Peacock for my design wall). Your lay out will be 10 squares across by 8 squares down.

Once you are happy with your layout,  sew the squares together to from a row.  You will have 8 rows of 10 squares.  I like to chain piece these.

Then you will sew your rows together to form the back.  If you press each set of seams from the even rows in one direction and the odd rows in the other direction your seams should nest and your intersections will match up nicely as you do this.  I like to pin my intersections.

 Don’t sew over your pins though as you don’t want to hurt yourself or your machine. Sew just up to the pin and remove it.

 Your back will look something like this when you are all finished sewing your rows together.

Next you need to make sure all four pieces of flannel are pressed.  It will help you make a smooth top.

Lay your back on a large table right side down. 

 At this point you need to think about the order you put your flannel down.  The layer closest to the back will not get cut and will not add to the chenille portion of your blanket.  The top three layers make the actual chenille.  I like to use a contrasting back fabric.  (This makes things easier when it is time to do the cutting.)   Lay the flannel down on top of the wrong side of the back (wrong sides together) and smooth into place to cover the back entirely.  Continue adding the other 3 flannels in the same manner.

 My favorite way to make the chenille is to make a color sandwich.  I like to make the top and the third layer the same color with a different color in the middle.  Experiment with colors and you will figure out what you like best too.  I have done all 4 different and all the same but in the end I like this method best.  You need to lay down each layer of flannel and smooth it over the previous layer until you have all 5 pieces of fabric layered together. 

Take a roll of masking tape and with the help of a friend lay the tape diagonally across the fabrics, being careful to make sure you are going corner to corner.  Press tape in place.

You are now ready to baste your layers together.  I like to use a large basting needle to do this.  Put a LOT of thread on your needle and starting close to the tape take some largish stitches along the length of the tape.  Make a few stitches at the end and go back the other direction until the whole half of the blanket is basted.  Then repeat on the other side.  This will hold everything together when you are ready to take it to the sewing machine.

You are now ready to take your sandwich to the sewing machine and begin sewing your lines.  At this point you should put your walking foot with guide on your machine.

You will want to sew along the tape line as close as you can on one side without sewing through the tape.

 Once you have sewn your first line, corner to corner down one side of the tape you may remove the tape.

 I set my guide at 5/8″ from my needle.  This will be your guide for sewing your lines.  line the guide up on your first sewn line, keep it there and sew another line.  When you get to then end of the top, break your thread and start back at the top, always guiding off the previous line.  Alternately, you could mark each line but if you have a guide this is so much quicker! 

It will look something like this as you go along.  I like to remove my basting threads as I stitch along and try not to stitch over them.

Now comes some fun!  You will be using your chenille scissors or cutter to cut through the top 3 layers of flannel.  Be very careful not to cut through the layer closest to the back (in my case it is the blue layer, another good reason for a contrasting back color is that it makes it easier to know which layers to cut!)

You can see that I have cut 3 of the 4 flannel layers right here.  I find that for me, the scissors don’t distort the the flannel as much as the cutters but both will work.

Continue to cut through all the channels you have sewn until the entire top looks like this.

Whew!  I don’t know about you but my hands are tired!!  We are almost finished.  It’s time to square up the top.  Using charm squares for the back makes this a little easier since you can line things up.  First fold your blanket in half one way, with the charm squares on the outside.  It doesn’t matter which way as you will do it both ways eventually.  I used a few pins to make sure things were lined up.  I checked the top edge and pinned.

I also checked the first intersection at the top and put a pin.  You can see the raw edge we will be trimming.

I lined up my ruler using the fold as the straight line and trimmed off the raw edge.  This is easier using a 60mm cutter as there are a LOT of layers.  When you finish with one side, turn the quilt and do the other edge the same.  After you have trimmed both edges one way refold the blanket, match in the same way and trim off the raw edges.

For me the second fold edge I was trimming contained the selvedge edges.  I  had to trim slightly more here to get rid of the selvedge edge.  I lined up the sewn line with the 4″ on my ruler and made my trim that way.  I did the same thing on the other side.  You could do all 4 sides the same or just the 2 like I did.  How much you want to trim is up to you.

Here is my blanket all trimmed and square and ready for applying the binding.  

I cut 5 binding strips at 2 1/2″ and sewed them into one continuous length.  I pressed the strips in half and cut off the ends.  On the flannel side, match raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the blanket. 

 Sew binding on using your walking foot.

 It should look something like this when you are finished.

Once you have applied all your binding you are ready to turn it and stitch it down on the back.  A good tip is to press the binding from the flannel side in the direction of the back.  This will make it easier to stitch hand stitch the binding down.  I usually hand stitch my binding in place but machine stitching in place works too.

 Once your binding is secured put your blanket into the washer with soap and softner if you wish.  Wash on a normal cycle.  Mine went into the washer looking like this.

When it is finished washing pop it into the dryer and dry on high.  Be sure to check your lint trap frequently, every 15 minutes or so, as you will generate a LOT of lint!

Now for the MAGICAL part!  Are you ready??  This is my favorite part.  It comes out looking like this!

When it is done drying, remove blanket from the dryer and admire your beautiful, fluffy creation!!!

Here is a close up of the chenille part. 

I loved using the Moda flannel it was so soft and luxurious! Can you see the bits of white in the chenille?  That’s because the color in this flannel did not permeate all the way to the back, ie the back looked “white”.  If you use a flannel where the color goes all the way through, your chenille will be a little more uniform/saturated in color.  I really liked the effect the white gave to the chenille in this one.

You just know a baby is going to love the tactile nature of this blanket!  Beware though, once you begin making these everyone is going to want one.

One Chenille Baby Blanket that measures approximately 36″x 45″

I hope you have enjoyed making this fabulous blanket along with me and will stop by my blog and say hello!  If you do make one I would love to see it.  Please add it to my Flickr group.  I have one just for Chenille blankets.  Happy stitching!!


Pamela Lincoln

Peacock Love Mini Quilt

I am so happy and excited to be able to share my latest project here on the Moda Bake Shop!  My name is Pamela Lincoln and I blog over at Mama Spark’s World. The inspiration for this quilt is my daughter.  She raises peafowl on her farm and I thought this might be a nice surprise for her in her new home.  I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did.  If you do make one please share it on my Flickr page, I would love to see your birds!

Let’s get started, shall we?

1 Charm Pack of Kissing Booth by Basic Grey 30310PP
1 Fat Quarter of Kissing Booth Candy Pink 30150 169
2 1/2 yards of Kissing Booth Creme Brulee 30150 166
1/2 yard of Kissing Booth Candy Pink 30310 11

1 1/2 yards Lite Steam-a-seam 2 18″ size 5418

1 1/2 yards batting (your choice)
1 Skein DMC 310 black embroidery floss  17 3371

The first thing you will need to do is print out the templates.  They are located at the end of the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.  I have drawn them in reverse so if you are using fusible they are all ready for you to use!  Tape the peacock together overlapping where indicated to make the complete bird.

You will need to trace one bird, one wing, one of the large hearts and at least 30 of the small hearts onto your fusible.  I used my light box but a window will work too.  Make sure you are on the correct side if you are using the Lite SAS2 (ask me how I know this!)  I drew one of the small hearts on to paper, cut it out and then traced it onto the cardboard that came with the charm pack.  I cut this cardboard heart out and drew around it onto the fusible so my hearts were more consistent.

You will need to roughly cut out around the shapes, don’t cut them out on the line!

Now comes the fun part!  Choose one of your charm squares for your wing, and approximately 15 other charms for your “feathers” (the small hearts).  Time to fuse the hearts and the wing to your chosen charm squares.  Place the right side of your fabric down on your ironing surface and place 2 hearts on the wrong side of the fabric.  Following manufacturer’s directions fuse the hearts to the charm square.  Do the same with the wing.

Using the plainer pink fabric that you have a FQ of you will repeat this process for the peacock’s body and the large heart.  Rough cut out the peacock, and fuse the body onto the wrong side of the pink fabric.  Repeat process for the large heart. 

Once all this fusing is completed you need to cut out all the hearts, the wing and the peacock on the line.  This will give you the components you need to make the wall hanging.

For the background you are using the Creme Brulee fabric.  Cut off 1 yard from the 2 1/2 yards you began with.  I left the selvedges on at this point and worked with the fabric horizontally, i.e. selvedges were on left and right rather than top an bottom.  I don’t know about you but I don’t have a large space to lay things out on yet.  My “design wall” is another wall hanging in my quilt room, or at least it is for now.  So the largest place I had to lay out the peacock and his tail was my bed!  Pay no attention to the two quilt inspectors!

This was NOT an exact science.  Remove the paper backing on your pieces before you begin and grab some pins.  Lay out the bird and his tail moving things around until you are happy with the placement.  I put my bird quite far to the left and approximately centered between the top and bottom of the background.  I then laid out the hearts until I was happy with the way they looked. Be sure to leave ~ 2 inches so you can remove selvedges and have room to move things if you are not happy.  At this point I put one pin through each of the hearts and a couple to hold the bird and his wing in place.  I did not put the large heart on yet, in case I wanted to be able to do some more trimming!

Now carefully pick up your masterpiece and move it to your design wall, or the floor or somewhere you can get some distance for additional viewing.  Here is where my “design wall came in handy.  See the blue lines and flip flops showing through from the quilt this is pinned to?  I was pretty happy with the placement so it was time to fuse it all to the background.  I carried the bird to my ironing board and following the manufacturer’s directions carefully fused (removing the pins a few at a time before I did the fusing). 

It is now time to trim the selvedges off.  I folded the top and trimmed the selvedges and also a little off the top so that my finished size was 32″ x 42″.

I folded the top in half to determine where to place my large heart, removed the paper and fused it in place also.

I like to secure all my fusible.  You can do this using a ziz zag, blanket stitch or a straight stitch. I opted for a straight stitch and black thread to define everything.

I have a few tips about doing the stitching around if you are using the straight stitch.  I used my open toe, zig zag foot and moved my needle over such that I could use the inside edge of the foot as a stitching guide.

I did one stitch back and then kept stitching, about half way around.  Then I went under the top and gently tugged on the loose thread to bring up a loop on the back.

I pulled the top thread to the back.

Knot off the thread and trim the thread tails.  Return to the sewing down your applique on the top.  This does require a needle down position on your machine as you want to keep your place on the top.

Do the same with the threads when you finish your applique.  This is what it will look like on the back.

Now using a marking tool, I use a pencil, and my light box, position the pattern under your piece and draw on the legs, the head feathers and the eye.

At this point you may either use your sewing machine to make the straight lines and the eye or you can embroider them.  I chose to embroider them using 3 strands of black embroidery floss, a number 11 needle and a small hoop.  I outlined the legs and head feathers using a back stitch.  I did the circles on the head feathers with a French Knot.  For the eye I did a back stitch around the outside of the eye and filled it in with a satin stitch.

DMC has an excellent embroidery stitch guide that can be found here, in case you need more direction than I am giving.

Briefly, this is what I did: 
For the back stitch:  Come up at A, then take a small stitch (between 1/8 and 1/4″ish) and put your needle down at point B to make one stitch.  Then push your needle from behind and come up at C.

Then you will put the needle back down into the B hole.  You continue this stitching to form a line.
I don’t usually travel my thread a great distance as I don’t want it to show through.  As you can see from where I began stitching I would be able to stitch up to where the other toes join the leg and down one more side but then would have to either knot and restart or travel.  I don’t do either of those.  Instead, on the back of the piece, I weave the thread up the line I just stitched to the point I want to go to to continue stitching.  In this case I was able to continue to stitch the toe on the other side of the leg, and then on the back, wove my thread up to the leg, in the center, between the two toes I just stitched.  I then stitched down the center toe and threaded the floss up to it’s starting point and continued to stitch the rest of the leg.  I finished the leg with a small knot and threaded the floss down a few stitches on the back and clipped the floss off.

I outlined the eye using a back stitch as well.  I seem to do better with a thread guide to use for my satin stitching.

I filled in the eye using a satin stitch.

 I used the back stitch for the head feathers with a triple french knot at the end of each feather.  This means I wrapped the thread around the needle 3 times before finishing the knot.  I could not, for the life of me figure out how to photograph that, I would have needed another hand!  You can see it in the stitch guide though.

VOILA!  Your peacock is now complete and ready for you to baste, quilt and bind as desired.

 I chose a heart pattern with some simple stitching in between the feathers and some on my bird’s body.  Before you bind you may want to attach a hanging sleeve.

I used the beautiful Kissing Booth floral for the binding.  My binding was cut 2.5″.

You will have one amazing 32″ X 42″ Peacock Love wall hanging!

Pamela Lincoln

Tips & Tricks: HSTs

Today’s tip is from Chef Pamela Lincoln from the blog Mama Spark’s World.

Pam shared her trick for perfectly lining up the points on your half square triangles (HSTs). Her method prevents those “clipped” corners that can so ofter happen with HSTs.

Pam says….”A little bit of time spent pinning helps with not cutting off your points!  If you have pressed your seams correctly as indicated in your pattern/recipe the seams should “nest” as shown below.”

Line up your pieces and insert your pin…check to make sure that the pin is just at the point on each side of the intersection.  Sew right up to the pin and then take it out.

Happy pinning!

Charmalade Quilt

I am so pleased and excited to be posting my very first Moda Bake Shop project!  I am Pam Lincoln of Mama Spark’s World, and my blog can be found here.    I am a HUGE fan of half square triangles (HST) and hope you are too.  They are so versatile to work with.  I had a lot of fun making this quilt and I hope you will enjoy making one with me.  Let’s get started now shall we?

3 Charm Packs of Marmalade (SKU 55050PP)
2 Charm Packs Moda Bella Snow
1 3/4 yards Moda Bella Snow (borders) (SKU 9900 11)
1/2 yard Marmalade raspberry and white stripe (SKU 55054 12)
4 yards Marmalade Red Flower on Aqua (backing) (SKU 55050 17)

This quilt finishes at 56″ x 68.” Use all 1/4″ seams throughout the project.

Select 65 Marmalade charms to be used for your HSTs.

Select 26 Marmalade charms to set aside to be used for your pieced border (more on this later)

You need 65 Moda Bella Snow charms.  Use these with your 65 Marmalade charm squares to make your Half Square Triangles (130 HST total).  Pair them up.  I like to put the MB Snow on top for ease of viewing my drawn line when it is time to sew.

Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on each of your 65 MB Snow charms.

When you have that done you will sew 1/4″ on either side of the line.

After you have all your units sewn cut them apart on the drawn line.  Press all HST units open with the seams pressed to the dark side.  Each HST unit will need to be trimmed to 4.5″ square.  I love using my 4.5″ruler and a cutting mat that turns to do this.  WEE lots of trimming!!  This will make putting them together much easier too.

The next part is really a lot of fun.  Time to lay out the center of your quilt!  I used the floor but if you have a design wall now is the time to use it.  I found that I needed to make a few more HST units to replace some of the ones I had made originally.  You should have a few to play with, but make sure you saved your border squares out first!!  Lay out the center and move it around until you are happy with your placement.

It is time to sew your squares together into rows.  I chain piece so I put a pin in the square on the left  of each pair and sew from left to right across the row.  So the first pair are the first two in the row, the second pair are 3 and 4 and so on.

Once you have all your rows sewn press each row’s seams in opposite directions ie, even rows to the right odd rows to the left etc.

Next you will be sewing your rows together.  This is where a little bit of time spent pinning helps with not cutting off your points!  If you have pressed your row right and left as above the seams should “nest” like this.  You can check while pinning that the pin is just at the point on each side of the intersection.  I sew right up to the pin and then take it out. 

You can press your seams toward the top or bottom of the quilt, or open it really doesn’t matter, as long as you press them!  The center of your top should now be complete. 

Borders: You should measure your center before you cut these.  I will tell you my measurements but yours may be slightly different from mine.  Always best to measure twice and cut once!

My center, all sewn, measured 40.5″ x 52.5″

First Snow Borders:

Cut 2 strips 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric).  You will use this for the top and bottom borders.

Using your width measurement (mine was 40.5″) Cut 2

I sewed my top and bottom first so I did not need to piece them.

Match the center of the border strip with the center of your quilt and pin.  Pin border at both ends.  Place pins in between easing as necessary.  Sew top and bottom border to quilt, press to the border.

Cut 3 strips 2.5″ x WOF .  Sew these together and press the seams open, this will be used for your sides.

Measure your top length with the new borders and cut two strips from the three strips you sewed together to match this measurement.  Mine was 2.5″ x 56.5″

These will be your side borders.

To make sure your borders fit fold the border in half and pin at the halfway point on the center part of your quilt and then pin the ends.  You can ease in the border or the center if necessary.  Pin borders along the way before sewing in place.  Sew side borders, press to the border.

Pieced Borders

You should have 26 Marmalade charm squares selected for your pieced borders.  You will need to cut each square 2.5″ x 4.5″

*Tip if you are using directional fabric you may want to cut some horizontally and some vertically.

I made stacks for each border before I sewed them together.  Two stacks of 12 (top and bottom borders) and 2 stacks of 14 (side borders).

Sewing end to end sew 2 strips using 14 of the 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles(these will be the sides) and 2 strips using 12 rectangles (these will be the top and bottom) to make 4 long strips.  Press seams in one direction.  I sewed each side row using the same fabrics in the same order and flipped them when I sewed them onto the quilt.  For instance in the photo above the dots would be on the left for the top border and on the right for the bottom border, but you can sew them randomly or in any pattern you like!

Pin the side borders first, matching the center of the border with the center of the quilt.  Pin each end, and along the border.  Ease as necessary.  Press to the colored border to minimize any show through.  Apply top and bottom borders in this same way.

Second Snow Borders:

Cut 7 strips 4.5″ x WOF

Sew 2 sets of 2 strips to be used for your your side borders.  Press seams open.  Again, measure your quilt top and cut your border length to fit the measurement of your top.

 I cut my side borders 60.5″ x 4.5 “

Pin side borders by matching the center of your border to the center of your quilt and match up your ends.  Pin border to your quilt and ease as necessary.  Sew side borders to the quilt top.  Press to the outer, snow border.

Sew the remaining 3 strips together.  Pressing seams open.   Measure your top and use that measurement to cut your top and bottom borders from this strip.

My measurement was 56.5″ x 4.5″.

Pin top and bottom borders by matching the center of your border to the center of your quilt and match up your ends.  Pin border to your quilt and ease as necessary.  Sew top and bottom borders to your quilt top.    Press to the outer, snow border. 

Wow, can you believe it?  Your top is now all finished!  On to the back.


Cut your 4 yard piece in half.  Remove the selvages.  Putting right sides together sew along the 72″ side lining up the top and bottom.  Press your seam open.

Sandwich your quilt top, batting and backing together and quilt as desired.  I chose feathers and straight lines. My friend, Liz, that has a long arm instructed me in how to make the feathers using her machine, she did the the circles and then I did all the straight lines using my Bernina.


I chose a stripe for my binding and cut it on the bias.  You will have half a yard for binding.  I cut my strips 2.5″, sewed the cut strips together into one long piece and pressed the strip in half width wise.   Apply binding using your favorite method and voila! You have a wonderful finished quilt!!

I hope you have enjoyed making this charming little quilt with me and I would love to see your finished quilts.  Please post them in my Flickr group.  If you have any questions or if something is unclear please let me know and I would be happy to help you out!

 This recipe yields one 56″ x 68″quilt, perfect for a couch throw or a great picnic quilt too!

Please stop by and visit me over at my blog.  I would love to have you stop in.  Also, if you make a quilt from this tutorial please link up to the Flickr group here.  I really enjoyed making this quilt and sharing it with everyone!

Pamela Lincoln


 Oh and thanks to my quilt tester, Jack