Scattered Squares Pillow


Hello All!–Corey Yoder of Little Miss Shabby here!  I always love hanging out over here on MBS and sharing a new project with you. =)  This is a quick, beginner friendly design that will add a dash of panache to your living space.  It uses just one mini charm pack and a bit of yardage–you might even already have all the supplies you will need to complete this project.  I love adding hand quilting to my projects but you could easily swap out the hand quilting for machine quilting and have this pillow on your couch in a jiffy.


(The fabrics I used are in parentheses)

-1 Mini Charm Pack (Miss Kate)
-1/4 yard background fabric (9900-98)
-1/8 yard border fabric (55091-12)
-1/2 yard pillow backing fabric (55090-17)
-1/8 yard binding fabric (55092-17)
-20″ square piece of pillow backing fabric (this will be used for the pillow top sandwich)
-20″ square piece of quilt batting

-18″ pillow form

Thread for hand quilting, if desired.  I prefer to use an 8 wt. Perle Cotton.

Cutting Instructions

From the background fabric cut:
(3) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (36) 1″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles
(3) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (36) 1″ x 3″ rectangles
(2) 1″ x width of fabric strips, subcut into (2) 1″ x 15 1/2″ strips & (2) 1″ x 16 1/2″ strips
From the border fabric cut:
(2) 1 1/2″ x wof strips, subcut into (2) 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ strips & (2) 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ strips
From the pillow backing fabric cut:
(2) 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ rectangles
From the binding fabric cut:
(2) 2 1/8″ x wof strips, trim selvages and sew together to create continuous binding


Piecing Instructions 

Notes:
-Use a scant 1/4″ seam allowance

-You will need (36) mini charms from the charm pack.  I opted to remove several of the solid colors.
1.  Sew a 1″ x 2 1/2″ background rectangle to the side of each of the 36 mini charm squares.  Press toward the rectangle.
2.  Sew a 1″ x 3″ background rectangle to the side of the units made in Step 1.  Press toward the rectangle.
3.  Layout the squares as pictured.  Sew the squares together in horizontal rows.  Press seams in adjoining rows in opposite directions.  Sew together the rows.  Press seams in one direction.

Adding the Borders:

(Press all seams away from the center)
-Sew the 1″ x 15 1/2″ background strips to the sides of the pillow top.
-Sew the 1″ x 16 1/2″ background strips to the top and bottom of the pillow top.
-Sew the 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ border strips to the sides of the pillow top.
-Sew the 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ border strips to the top and bottom of the pillow top.
This completes your pillow top!
Layer the pillow top, 20″ batting square, and 20″ pillow backing square to create a pillow sandwich.  Quilt as desired.

Finishing the Pillow

1.  Hem (1) 18 1/2″ side of each of the 12 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ pillow backing rectangles.  To do so, fold the edge in(wrong sides together) approx. 1/4″ and press into place.  Fold in an additional 1/4″ and press.  Top stitch into place.

2.  With the pillow top facing down, place the hemmed rectangles as shown.  The finished pillow backing edges will overlap in the center of the pillow and all raw edges will be aligned.


3.  Pin the backing pieces into place.  Use a long stitch and baste 1/8″ around the perimeter of the pillow top.
4.  Sew the binding onto the pillow to complete your pillow.  The scalloped fabrics in Bonnie & Camille’s fabric lines are perfect binding fabrics.


1 beautiful 18″ x 18″ Pillow which, incidentally, is the perfect companion to my Ruby, Pearl, & Opal quilt which I shared on MBS several years ago when Bonnie & Camille’s Ruby line of fabric was released.

You can find the tutorial for this quilt here.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial!–I hope you’ll stop by my blog, Little Miss Shabby, for a visit!

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Trifle Dish: Posies


 
To make LAYER 6, use jelly roll strips, which is particularly useful when using this block for an entire quilt top. The posies block is very precut friendly and you can substitute almost any other cut – fat eighths, fat quarters, and layer cakes. Note that there are two versions of the block, one with top sashing and one with bottom sashing, which gives the posies movement.

For EACH Posies block, you will need:
Fabric 1/White Solid:

  • (1) 2 ½” squares
  • (2) 2″ squares
  • (1) 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangle
  • (8) 1 1/4″ squares

Fabric 2/Flower Top:

  • (2) 2″ squares
  • (4) 1 ½” x 2 ½” rectangles

Fabric 3/Flower Bottom (green print):

  • (4) 2″ x 2 1/4″ rectangles
  • (1) 1″ x 3 ½” rectangle

Block Dimensions: 4″ x 8″ (finished) / 4½” w x 8½” h (unfinished)

You will also need (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” strips (one in between each flower) of background fabric to make the row equal 64″

Suggested precuts: Jelly rolls, fat quarters, fat eighths, layer cakes

 
1.  Use (2) 2″ flower top squares and (2) 2″ white solid squares  to construct 4 HST’.  Trim to 1 ½” square.  Press toward print fabric.

2.  Sew an HST onto each end of a 1 ½” x 2 ½” flower top rectangle as illustrated.  Press toward center.  Make 2.

3.  Sew a 1 ½” x 2 ½” flower top rectangle to each side of a 2 ½” white square as illustrated. Press away from center.  Sew the 2 units made in Step 2 to the top and bottom of the rectangle unit. Press toward center.

4.  Draw a diagonal line across the back of all the (8) 1 1/4″ white squares.  Use the stitch and flip method to sew (1) 1 1/4″ white square onto the lower left and upper right corners of a green 2″ x 2 1/4″ rectangle.  Make 4, taking care with directional fabric.  Press toward the white.

5.  Sew together the dog ear corner units made above. Add 1″ x 3 ½” rectangle between them as the flower stem.

6.  Sew the flower top to the flower bottom.  Press seam toward flower top.   Press toward the white.

Sew the white 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangle to the top or bottom of the flower (you will alternate to give the flowers movement in the row). The block should measure 4 ½” x 8 ½”

Note:  To complete the strip a total of 13 flowers are needed.  7 of them should have the last white rectangle sewn to the top and 6 should have the rectangle sewn to the bottom.  I used a total of (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” strips (one in between each flower).


1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″

Block design by Corey Yoder of {Little Miss Shabby}

Candy Scraps Quilt


Hello all!–I am excited to be sharing another quilt pattern with you here on Moda Bake Shop.  My name is Corey; you will usually find me blogging over at Little Miss Shabby.
I am always drawn to a great scrap quilt–they are probably some of my favorite quilts.  Moda’s mini charm packs are a perfect way to create a scrap quilt.  If you prefer a less scrappy quilt, this quilt could also be made using one regular charm pack and one mini charm pack.  Check out the end of the tutorial to see the quilt made using Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts.


*5 Moda Candy packs (I used From Outside In, Ducks in a Row, April Showers, Mixed Bag, & Daydream)
1 White Solid Jelly Roll
2 1/4 yard Linen Mochi Dot Unbleached Linen (32911-11)
3 1/8 yard Backing
1/2 yard Binding (I used April Showers, Teal Stripe, 55083-12)
56″ x 72″ batting

*For a less scrappy version choose one regular charm pack & one Moda Candy pack, cut each 5″ square into (4) 2.5″ squares


(48) 8 1/2″(trim a regular sized piece of paper to the correct size) pieces of copy paper; draw a diagonal line from one corner to another

A variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton if hand quilting

Cutting Instructions

From the Jelly Roll:
Use 22 strips, cut (192) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles (cut 9 from each strip)

From the Linen cut:
(16) 1 3/4″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 1 3/4″ x 14″ strips
(7) 6″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 6″ squares, cut diagonally once to make 96 triangles

Block Construction

~All sewing is done right sides together using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance~
Begin by sewing together the mini charm pack squares in pairs.  You will need a total of 96 pairs.  Press toward the darker fabric.

Sew a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle onto each side of the units made above as pictured below.  Press to the white.
Center a 1 3/4″ x 14″ linen strip across the unmarked diagonal.  Tip: use a little bit of temp. spray adhesive to keep it in place.
Place a mini charm strip right sides together with the linen strip.  Center as illustrated.  Using a small stitch length, sew the strips together.  You will be sewing the strips onto the paper.  Press away from the center.
Sew another mini charm strip to the other side of the linen strip in the same manner.
Sew a triangle onto each side.  Center as illustrated.  Press away from the center.
Your block should now look like this:
Trim the block even with the 8 1/2″ paper.  Remove the paper to complete the block.
Make a total of (48) 8 1/2″ blocks.
Layout the blocks 6 blocks x 8 blocks.  Sew together, pressing the seams of adjacent rows in opposite directions.
Your quilt top is now complete and you can baste, quilt, and bind using your preferred methods.  For my quilt, I opted to big stitch, hand quilt using a variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton threads.
A striped binding is the perfect addition to any quilt.
And, of course, as promised here is the quilt using all Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts:


One scrappy 48″ x 64″ Candy Scraps Quilt.  Perfect for snuggling under–my kids will attest to this! =)

For other fun quilts, tutorials, quilt alongs, and stitch alongs, visit my blog at Little Miss Shabby.

Corey Yoder
{www.littlemissshabby.com}

Organic Elements Quilt


Hello all!–I’m excited to be back with another fun tutorial here on Moda Bake Shop!  If any of you follow by blog, Little Miss Shabby, you know that I have been having a bit of a love affair with these solids–I adore them.  And I hope you love this tutorial/quilt as much as I do! =)

 
1 Warm Pastels Bella Solids Jelly Roll
3.25 yd. Fig Tree Cream Solid 9900 67
1 yd. Fig Tree Apricot Solid 9900 70
1 yd. Fig Tree Wheat Solid 9900 68
1 yd. Ochre Solid 9900 79
1 yd. Buttercup Solid 9900 51
1 yd. Green apple Solid 9900 74
1 yd. Clover Solid 9900 73
1 yd. 20″ wide light weight fusible web (I used Heat n Bond Lite)
Queen Size Quilt Batting

Note: The last 6 solids will be used for the backing & binding as well as for some of the appliqued petals.

Cutting Instructions:
WOF=Width of Fabric
~Measurements given are based on 44″ of usable fabric–be careful when trimming your selvages to not overtrim them.~

Cream Fabric:

Cut {5} 12.5″ x WOF strips, subcut each strip into {4} 7.5″ strips and {4} 3.5″ strips
Cut {8} 2.5″ x WOF strips, subcut each strip into {2} 16.5″ strips, set aside the remaining 10″ left over from each strip we will use these later
Cut {9} 2.5″ x WOF strips, trim selvages and sew end to end, randomly add in 4 of the 10″ strips from above.  Trim down into {6} 2.5″ x 70.5″ strips
Cut {4} 2.5″ x WOF strips, trim selvages and sew end to end, add in 2 of the 10″ strips from above.  Trim down into {2} 2.5″ x 92.5″ strips.

Jelly Roll:

Remove the cream strips from the jelly roll.  Divide the remaining 36 jelly roll strips into two equal piles.  Each pile should have 2 strips of each of the 9 remaining colors–18 strips total in each pile.



From Pile #1 cut the following from each strip:

{1} 2.5″ x 16.5″ strip, {1} 2.5″ x 14.5″ strip, {1} 2.5″ x 12.5″ strip

From Pile #2 cut the following from each strip:

{1} 2.5″ x 14.5″ strip, {1} 2.5″ x 12.5″ strip (Set aside the left over strips-you will use a portion of them in the next step), Select 10 of the left over strips(the other 8 remaining left over strips will be used to make petals), cut 10 additional pieces as follows:

{2} 2.5″ x 16.5″ strips
{4} 2.5″ x 14.5″ strips
{4} 2.5″ x 12.5″ strips

    

Backing/Binding Fabrics:

-From each of the 6 one yard pieces cut {1} 2.25″ x WOF strip.  Cut an additional 2.25″ x WOF strip from two of the fabrics for a total of 8 binding strips.  Tag the two pieces of fabric that you cut the extra strip from(for easy reference when piecing the back).

-From each of the 6 one yard pieces cut {1} 2.75 x length(approx. 31-33″) of fabric.  This strip measurement includes the selvage–there is no need to trim it prior to cutting.  These strips will be used to make petals. 



Making the Petals:

Using the template provided in the Printer Friendly Version, trace 56 petal shapes onto the fusible web.  Cut out all petals approx. 1/8″ from the traced line.

Iron 4 petals onto each of the 14 strips designated for the petals.  By slanting the petals, you will be able to fit 4 petals on the smaller strips.

Cut apart the petals on the line, peel off the backing, and set aside.

Block Construction

Sew a 2.5″ x 12.5″ colored strip to each 7.5″ x 12.5″ white piece.  Press seams away from the white.  Make 20.

Sew a 2.5″ x 12.5″ colored strip to each 3.5″ x 12.5″ white strip.  Press seams away from the white.  Make 20.

Sew together the 2 units made above.  Press seam away from the white.  Make 20.
Sew a 2.5″ x 14.5″ colored strip to the bottom of the unit made above.  Press seam toward the colored strip.

Sew a 2.5″ x 14.5″ colored strip to the right of the unit made above.  Press seam toward the colored strip.

Sew a 2.5″ x 16.5″ colored strip to the top of the unit made above.  Press seams toward the colored strip.  Make a total of 20 blocks.

Layout your blocks in a pleasing manner varying their rotation.  You want to layout the blocks prior to appliqueing them as the rotation will effect applique placement.

Once you have finished the layout, choose 7 of the blocks to applique.  You can see above, the blocks I appliqued.

Completing the Applique

Using a water erasable fabric marker, draw a line down the center of the white rectangle in which you will be appliquéing (the center will be at approx. 3.5″).

Line up the petals and iron into place.  Using a blanket stitch, complete the applique.  I used 12 weight thread for the applique on my petals.  Complete the applique for all 7 blocks.

Adding the sashing

Sew a 2.5″ x 16.5″ white sashing strip between the blocks.  Press seams towards the blocks.  Complete all 5 rows.

Sew a 2.5″ x 70.5″ white sashing strip in between each row.  Press seams away from the sashing.  Make sure to add a sashing strip to the top and the bottom of the quilt top.

Finish the quilt top by adding a 2.5″ x 92.5″ sashing strip to the left and right of the quilt.  Press seams away from the sashing strips.

Making the Backing

Straighten the backing fabrics if needed.  Of the two slightly smaller backing pieces you tagged above, put one piece on the left and one on the right.  Of the four remaining backing pieces, two will go on the right side of the back and two on the left with a seam in the middle of the backing.  The uncut selvage edges will go around the perimeter of the backing.  Sew together.

Sandwich, Baste, and quilt as desired.  I opted to send this quilt out to be professionally quilted by the fabulous Angela

To finish the quilt, use the binding strips to create a scrappy binding.  And your quilt is ready to be enjoyed!  Thanks so much for reading over my tutorial!  I’d love to see pictures of your Organic Elements Quilt. =)


74″ x 92″ Quilt

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Ruby, Pearl, and Opal Quilt


Hey all!  I am so excited to be sharing another Bake Shop Quilt with you all!  It’s me, Corey, from Little Miss Shabby.  As soon as I saw Bonnie and Camille’s Ruby line of fabric, I knew that some of it had to make its way to my house.  Not only is the fabric beautiful– it also shares its name with my husband’s Great Aunt Ruby.  Incidentally, my husband’s Grandmother’s name was Opal, sister to his Great Aunt Ruby. Let’s not forget their other sister, Pearl.  No Joke, how cute is that?!? –So, of course we have the Ruby, Pearl, and Opal Quilt. =)

I have also included instructions for a pieced backing using your leftover fabric.  I do love a great pieced backing. You will have very little fabric leftover if you opt for the pieced backing. 

Without further ado… “Ruby, Pearl, and Opal”.




1 Ruby Layer Cake
3 yd. Cream Solid {9900-97}
2 1/4 yd. Backing Print {55030-13}
1/2 yd. Binding Print {55037-11}

Layer Cake Cutting Instructions:

Divide the layer cake into 2 piles of 20 pieces.  Make sure to distribute the colors evenly between the 2 piles.

From Pile #1 cut the following (shown above in the aqua fabrics):

~ {1} 2.5″ strip, subcut into 3″ and 5″ (pieces F and G)
~ {1} 5.5″ strip, subcut into 3.5″ and 4.5″ (pieces E and D)
*save the leftover piece from cutting this strip–it will be used for piece C*
~ Save the 2″ x 10″ leftover piece for the pieced backing

From Pile #2 cut the following (shown above in the green fabrics):

~ {1} 3.5″ strip, subcut into 3.5″ and 4.5″ (pieces A and B)
*save the leftover piece from cutting this strip–it will be used for piece C*
~ {1} 3.5″ x 8.5″ strip (piece H)
~ Save the 3″ x 10″ leftover piece for the pieced backing

~Label the cut layer cake pieces as you go.~

White Fabric Cutting Instructions:

For the Blocks cut:
–{22}strips 1.5″ x WOF (width of fabric), set aside 2, from each of  the remaining 20 strips subcut as follows: {1} 12.5″, {2} 8.5″, {1} 5.5″, {2} 3.5″

From the 2 set aside strips subcut {20} 2.5″ strips

For the Sashing cut:
–{5} 1.5″ x WOF strips, subcut into {15} 12.5″ strips
–{5}1.5″ x WOF strips, sew end to end and cut {4} long strips 1.5″ x 51.5″

For the Borders cut:
–{6} 4.5″ x WOF Strips, sew end to end and cut {2} long strips 4.5″ x 59.5″ and {2} long strips 4.5″ x 64.5″

For the Pieced Backing cut:
— {4} 7.5″ x WOF strips, sew 2 pairs together to make {2} long strips 7.5″ x 88″, trim to 7.5″ x 81″

Backing Fabric Cutting Instructions:

Cut backing fabric into {2} pieces, one 12″ x 81″ and one 32″ x 81″

Binding Fabric Cutting Instructions:

Cut {7} strips 2.25″ x WOF

Piecing Instructions:
{All seams allowances = scant 1/4″}

Use the set aside pieces leftover from cutting the layer cake ( 2″ x 5.5″ and 2″ x 3.5″).  Make sure not to use the pieces set aside for the pieced backing. 

With right sides together, sew together {2} 2″ x 3.5″ pieces, press seams open.  Repeat until all pairs are sew together.  You will have 10 units.  Repeat for the 2″ x 5.5″ strips.

Trim all 20 of the strip sets to 3.5″ x 3.5″ blocks.  These units will be piece C.

This is the block layout.

Begin by sewing the A/B/C strip section section together with the 1.5″ x 3.5″ white strips.  Piece 1/2 of the C blocks with the seam running horizontally as pictured and 1/2 with the seam running vertically as pictured.  Press all seams away from the white strips.  The completed strip sets will measure 3.5″ x 12.5″ and will be referred to as A/B/C strip set.

Sew together pieces D and E along with the 1.5″ x 5.5″ white strip.  Press seams away from the white.  These strip sets will be 5.5″ x 8.5″ and will be referred to as D/E strip set. 

Sew together pieces F and G with the 1.5″ x 2.5″ white strip.  Press seams away from the white strip.  The strip unit will measure 2.5″ x 8.5″ and will be referred to as F/G strip set.

Sew together a D/E strip set, an F/G strip set, piece H, and the two 1.5″ x 8.5″ white strips.  Press all seams away from the white strips.  These strips sets will measure 8.5″ x 12.5″.

Now sew together the strip set you just completed, the A/B/C strip set, and the 1.5″ x 12.5″ white strip.  Press away from the white.  These will be your completed blocks and will measure 12.5″ square.

Arrange the quilt blocks 4 blocks by 5 blocks, orienting the blocks randomly as you go.

Sew together the top row using 4 blocks and 3 sashing strips 1.5″ x 12.5″.  Press seams away from the white fabric.  Continue with the remaining rows. 

Sew together the completed rows using the 1.5″ x 51.5″ long sashing.  Press away from the white fabric.  Add borders–Left and Right sides first, Top and Bottom second.  Your quilt top is now finished and we are ready to piece the backing.

Pieced Backing:
Sew together all the 2″ x 10″ and 3″ x 10″ extra layer cake strips into a long strip approx. 10″ x 81″.  Sew a white backing strip onto the left and right of the pieced section.  And finally, sew a backing print piece to the right and left of the white pieces.  Trim up the backing if needed.

You are now ready to sandwich your quilt top/batting/backing, baste, quilt and bind.  I opted to straight-line machine quilt my quilt.

You now have one fabulous 59″ x 72″ quilt with an equally snazzy pieced backing.

I hope that you have a great time making this quilt!  And I’d love to see you over at my blog. =)

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}



Framed In Quilt



I can’t tell you how excited I am to be back to share with you all a fun quilt made using none other than the Fig Tree Quilts line of fabric, Strawberry Fields.  I always love Joanna’s lines of fabric for Moda but I’ve gotta admit that this line is one of my favorites!  And I am so in love with this quilt!  At the end of this tutorial I’ll show you two alternate layouts that completely change the look of the quilt–but all three quilts are made using one simple block.

I am so excited that Leah from Burgundy Buttons is offering an adorable Framed In quilt kit.  We all know how cute these are!  So, if you love this quilt as much as I do be sure to snatch up your kit! =)

After you have finished looking over my tutorial,  I would love if you would pop over onto my blog at Little Miss Shabby.  I have another quilt tutorial posted for a great quilt you can make using the leftover fabric from this quilt.  Enjoy!

1.25 yd. Ivory Beige Polka 20166-15
1.25 yd. Lg. Floral 20162-13
.75 yd. Red Gingham 20164-11
4 yd. Backing 20160-15
.5 yd. Binding Red Polka 20166-21
1 Fat 8th Bundle Strawberry Fields

-A 9″ Square piece of template plastic to square up your blocks

I chose to hand quilt my quilt–any of the layouts work beautifully for hand quilting.  If you’d like to hand quilt your quilt as well, you may wish to pick up some of the following Finca Perle Cotton (I used size 8).  A 10 gram ball of each is perfect.

1137–Yellow
1247–Red
1474–Pink
4812–Green
4350–Aqua
8017–Taupe

All seam allowances are 1/4″.
Begin by giving all of the fabrics in your fat 8th bundle a nice pressing.  Ironing wonderful new fabrics is always so much fun; way better than ironing clothes! =)  It’ll also provide you with better accuracy as you begin cutting the strips for your blocks.
Now you are ready to begin cutting the strips. 
We will be cutting the strips along the short side of the fat eighth–so your strips will be 9″ long–do not cut them along the 22″ side.
Cut the following from each fat eighth:
2 strips 2.5″ x 9″
2 strips 2″ x 9″
3 strips 1.5″ x 9″
Cut the following from the Beige Polka Dot:
6 strips 5.75 x WOF (width of fabric)
subcut into (36) 5.75″ squares & then cut in half diagonally once to make 72 triangles

We are now going to sew our strips together.  First, cut a small amount off of 1 strip of each size–a different amount for each width.  This way we won’t have to worry about our seams lining up when we sew our strip sets together.

Now we will start sewing together our strips–sewing same width strips to same width strips.
  
After sewing together several strips, iron seams to one side and trim the set to 13.25″.  Using the small pieces (you can see them pictured up above on the right side of the cut), continue sewing more strips together, stopping every so often to trim them down to 13.25″ and then keep going–always utilizing the whole strip.
Continue sewing together the strips and trimming to 13.25″ until you have sewn/trimmed all of the strips.  You will have twice as many 1.5″ strips–you will use two of them per block & only one per block of the 2″ width and 2.5″ width.
Now we will sew together four strips to make a rectangle strip set measuring 6″ x 13.25″.  Each rectangle block will consist of (1) 2″ x 13.25″ strip, (1) 2.5″ x 13.25″ strip, & (2) 1.5″ x 13.25″ strip.  Place the different widths randomly within the block.  You want them all to be different, scrappy, and fun.
Continue sewing together the strips until you have a total of 36.  Press seams to one side.  As you start sewing the last few blocks, you may find that you need a few extra 1.5″ strips–just trim down some of the wider strips as you should have extra of those. =)
To make the corner trimming template, cut a paper square 3″ and then cut diagonally once to make a triangle.  Tape the diagonal edge of the paper triangle to your rotary cutter as pictured and trim off each corner of each strip set rectangle.
We will now sew our corner triangles onto our strip set unit.

The triangle unit will extend beyond the strip set unit as shown.  Sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance as pictured.

Press seams and voila! =)  Continue to finish all 36 blocks.
Now, these are some stretchy little blocks due to all of the bias edges and can very easily get ironed out of whack. =)  Because of this, I chose to square up my blocks before going any further.  To make a great template, take your 9″ piece of template plastic and draw a line diagonally from each corner forming an “x”.  Take a few of your finished quilt blocks and measure the width of the strip set in the middle (it should be 5.5″–if it is slightly larger or smaller, use your measurement).  Divide that measurement in half (if your measurement was 5.5″ that would be 2.75″).  Using this measurement draw a parallel line that distance from each side of one of the diagonals you made on the template initially–for example, 2.75″ on each side of the diagonal. 
You can use this template to square up all of your blocks–just line up the center strip set with your template and trim. =)  You will now have (36) wonderfully square 9″ blocks.
And now the fun part, deciding which layout you prefer:

This is the one that I chose–but, you could also go with a fun zig zag:

Or, this fun little number:

Once you have decided on your layout, sew together the quilt blocks accordingly.

Borders:

From the Red Gingham, cut 6 strips 2.5″ wide x WOF.  Sew the strips together, press seams open and cut two strips 54″ long and two strips 58″ long.  Sew to quilt top.

From the Floral cut cut 6 strips 4.5″ wide x WOF.  Sew the strips together, press seams open and cut two strips 58″ long and two strips 66″ long.  Sew to quilt top.

Your quilt is now ready to layer, quilt, and bind. =)  You will have extra fabric leftover–who doesn’t love extra fabric?!?  This quilt would be very easy to make larger if you wanted to by simply adding more quilt blocks or pop on over to my blog for another fun quilt to make with your leftover goodness (sneak peek below).

One fun, summery, perfect for a picnic, quilt measuring approximately 66″ x 66″.

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Peppermint Snowballs Quilt


Hello, it’s Corey Yoder from Little Miss Shabby back again with another fun little quilt.  I think Aneela totally nailed her debut fabric line for Moda, Sherbet Pips, & I came up with this quilt to showcase some of her oh so cute prints.  Snowball blocks meet Peppermint Pinwheel blocks….Peppermint Snowballs Quilt. =)

**All seams are to be sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance

1 Sherbet Pips Layer Cake
1 1/4 Bella Solids White (9900-98)
1/3 Yard Binding Fabric Sherbet Pips Gray Dot (18505-19)
3 Yards Backing Fabric Sherbet Pips Girl on Swing (18500-11)


Begin by choosing 12 of your favorite prints from the layer cake.  These will be used for the snowball blocks.  I chose the dog, scooter, & tree prints.  From the remaining layer cake squares, choose 5 squares to be used for the pinwheels–I went with the solid/dot fabrics you see below.

Trim each of the Snowball squares to 9.5″ square.  From the layers you have chosen for the Pinwheel blocks, cut a total of 7 strips 2.5″ x 10″ (1 strip from each square plus an extra strip from two of the prints).  Subcut the strips int 2.5″ squares.

From the remaining 25 layer cake squares cut:

(48) strips 2″ x 10″ (these will be used for the pieced square border around the pinwheel blocks)–cut 2 strips from each layer cake square

(14) strips 2.5″ x 10″–subcut into 2.5″ squares (these will be used for the hst blocks on the corners of the Pinwheel blocks)–choose these strips at random from remaining layer cake squares, don’t cut more than one strip per fabric

(10) strips 2″x 10″–subcut into 2″ squares (these will be used for the outermost triangle on the Snowball blocks)–choose these strips at random from remaining layer cake squares,  don’t cut more than one strip per fabric

From the White Solid Fabric cut:

(4) strips 3.5″ x WOF–subcut into (48) 3.5″ squares
(3) strips 2″ x WOF–subcut into (26) 2″ x 3.5″ rectangles
(6) strips 2″ x WOF–subcut into (26) 2″ x 6.5″ rectangles
(2) strips 2.5″ x WOF–subcut into (26) 2.5″ squares

On the back of each white 3.5″ square, each white 2.5″ square, each Sherbet Pips 2″ square, and 1/2 of the Sherbet Pips 2.5″ squares draw a diagonal line from corner to corner.

*Please note that I do not have the white 2.5″ squares pictured above–make sure to include them just as the instructions read.*

Assembling the Snowball Blocks

Begin by sewing one 3.5″ white square to each corner of a 9.5″ layer cake square.  Sew directly on the diagonal line–pay attention to the orientation of the diagonal.

Trim each corner 1/4″ from sewn line on each corner.

Press open.

Now you will repeat the same process using the Sherbet Pips 2″ squares.  Place a 2″ square right sides together on each corner of the snowball block.  You will sew a diagonal line directly on your drawn line–pay attention to the orientation of the diagonal.

Trim corners 1/4″ from sewn line & press open.

Continue until you have completed all 12 Snowball Blocks.

Assembling the Pinwheel Blocks
Begin by placing one white 2.5″ square right sides together with one Sherbet Pips 2.5″ square.

Sew 1/4″ away from the diagonal on each side of the drawn line.

Cut on drawn line.

Press to the Sherbet Pips fabric. Repeat these steps to make a total of 52 triangle units.  Trim all hst units to 2″ square.

Now we will repeat these steps to make the triangle units for the outermost corners of the pinwheel block.   Begin by placing (2) 2.5″ Sherbet Pips Squares right sides together.

Sew 1/4″ away from the drawn diagonal line just like you did for the Pinwheel blocks a moment ago.  Cut apart on the diagonal line and press open to the darker fabric.  Trim all hst units to 2″ square.

You will end up with a bunch of fun little half square triangle units. 52 of the Sherbet Pips/Sherbet Pips units & 52 of the White/Sherbet Pips units.

To make the pinwheel units, sew together 4 of the white/sherbet pips units pressing seams to the Sherbet Pips fabric.

Sew together to complete the pinwheel unit.

Continue sewing all of the pinwheels together until you have a lovely little stack of them.
Next, sew a 2″ x 3.5″ white rectangle to the top and bottom of the pinwheel block.  Then, sew a 2″ x 6.5″ rectangle to the right and left of the pinwheel.  Press seams out.

Sew all of the pinwheel blocks in this manner.

Now we will begin sewing together the 2″ x 10″ strips in sets of four.  Press open to one side.

Continue until you have sewn together all of the strips.

Subcut into 2″ strips.

Now we will sew one of the half square triangle units onto each end of 26 of the strip sets.  Please note:  It is very important that the diagonals are oriented exactly as shown for each strip.  Press seams toward the center.

Continue until you have sewn triangle units onto each end of 26 of the strips.

Now we can assemble these blocks.

Begin by sewing one of the 4 square strips to the top and bottom of the pinwheel unit.  Press away from the center.

Sew the remaining strips to the right and left of the block making sure to orient the diagonals as pictured.

And Voila–completed pinwheel blocks.

You are ready to assemble the quilt as shown.

Once you have your blocks sewn together (25 blocks total — 5 blocks x 5 blocks) you are ready to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind. 
A fabulous 45″x45″ quilt showcasing Aneela’s wonderful fabrics!  Enjoy!

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}