Garden Girl Quilt

 

We’re back…Yep, it’s been awhile since Kelli and I have had a quilt for you here at Moda Bake Shop. We’ve been really busy.  We sent our quilt book, scheduled to come out in early 2015, to our publisher.  Kelli’s been taking college classes and we bought an old foreclosure house that we are remodeling.  You can read all about that and see pictures on our blog, Jo’s Country Junction.  With all that going on you’d think we’d not have time to to sew anything else..NOT!!  Sewing is therapy for us and trust me, we need therapy.  Besides, who can resist a great fabric line like MoMo’s Avant Garden…not us!  Read the pattern here then stop over to our blog and we’ll fill you in on some behind the scenes info about the quilt and we have a sweet $50 gift certificate for one our readers to win.

Before we get going here are a few stats on the quilt.

Finished Block Size:  10”
Finished Quilt Size:  80” x 90”

Layout:  8 x 9

Fat Quarter Bundle of MoMo’s Avant Garden
4 yards Blue Background
4- 1/3 yard cuts of coordinating solids/dots
5 1/2″ yards backing
3/4 yard binding

**Note WOF means the width of the fabric**

Pick 24 fat quarters from the bundle.  From Each (of 24) fat quarters cut:
                -Cut 2- 7 1/2″ x 21” strips.  Subcut 1- 7 1/2″ x 21” strip into 2- 7 1/2″ squares
                -Cut the remaining 7 1/2″ x 21” strip into 1- 7 1/2″ square and 2- 3 ½” x 13.5” rectangles. 
                -Cut the 2- 3 1/2” x 13 1/2″ strips into a total of 12- 2” x 3 1/2″ rectangles.
                **From each fat quarter, you will need a total of 3- 7 1/2″ squares and 12- 2” x 3 1/2”                                  rectangles.
From Blue background fabric:
                -Cut a total of 36- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut into a total of 576- 2” x 2 1/2″ rectangles.
                -Cut a total of 29- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut into a total of 576- 2” squares
From Each of 4 coordinating solids/dots (cornerstones):
                -Cut 4- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut each strip into a total of 72- 2” squares of each color (288- 2” squares)
From binding fabric:
                -Cut a total of 9- 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.
Sewing Instructions (for one block):
1.  Using 4- 2” squares and 4 matching 2” x 3 1/2″ rectangles, place a blue square, right sides together, on the corner of each of the colored rectangles.  Sew from corner to corner on the blue square.  

Trim seam allowance to a quarter of an inch.  Press to the blue.  Add a second square to the opposite side of the printed rectangle.  Again, sew from corner to corner of the blue square.  Trim seam allowance to a quarter of an inch and again, press to the blue. 

 Repeat for each matching colored rectangle.

2.  Attach a 2” x 2.5” rectangle to opposite sides of each flying goose created in step 1.  Press to the blue rectangles.

3.  Attach a 2” colored square (cornerstones) to opposite ends of two of the units created in step 2. 

 Attach the remaining two segments created in step 2  to the opposite sides of the main 7 1/2″ colored squares.  Press to the colored center.

4.  Attach the remaining segments (with cornerstones) to opposite sides of the block.  Press to the colored middle.

5.  Repeat to make a total of 72 blocks.
6.  Arrange in a 8 x 9 layout sewing the blocks first into rows then sewing the rows together.
7.  Quilt as desired. Check out our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see what we did for a quilting design.

8.  Join binding strips and bind.


Finished Quilt Size:  80” x 90”

This is such a fun fabric line…perfect for picnics and perfect for any girls room.  We couldn’t resist the fabric!!


Jo and Kelli Kramer
{ Jo’s Country Junction}

Beach Umbrella Quilt


Hello everyone! I’m Becky from Patchwork Posse. Today I am sharing the quilt pattern for a cute and beachy umbrella quilt. During the summer I find that a little bit of shade goes a long way! These umbrellas are all about giving you a place to hide away from the heat. The fun contrast in the Weeds fabric collection with red, blacks, and grays is perfect for showcasing the fun print on the umbrella. Even though there is curved piecing in this quilt, once you get the hang of it, you can quickly sew all the blocks together. The key is pinning. You will be using pins. A lot of them. If you notice one umbrella is facing the wrong way….I did this on purpose. You don’t have to do that if you don’t like. I find it fun to add something a little ‘off’ in quilts.

  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in red for the umbrellas
  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in gray for the block backgrounds
  • ½ yard fabric for spacer blocks (I used a light gray on dark gray polka dot); cut into (12) 7″ squares
  • 1½ yards of red ric rac for umbrella handles; cut into (13) 4″ pieces
  • Coordinating thread for top-stitching the ric rac
  • ¼ yard red fabric for 1st border; cut into (2) 2″ x 32″strips and (2) 2″ x 35″
  • 4 to 5 gray fat quarters for 2nd border; cut into (60) 2″ x  9″ strips
  • 1 fat quarter for cornerstones; cut into (4) 4″ squares
  • {Beach Umbrella Quilt template at the end of the Printer Friendly file}

(1) Cut out the umbrella pieces using the {templates}. Make sure you pay attention to the grain line arrow on the template. This will help keep the curves on the bias which will be a lot easier to sew. I used red for the umbrella parts and the dark gray and black for the background. Notice that section D is the bottom of the block and where you will be sewing the ric rac handle. NOTE: when cutting your fabric make sure you ADD 1/4″ to each. If you don’t, your blocks will be too small.

(2) Pin the center of piece A to the center of piece B- the will be curved in different directions.

 

(3) Pin the ends of the pieces together.


 

(4) Sew across this edge, stopping every few stitches and easing the edges together. When you get to the center, leave your needle down and adjust the rest of the piece.

(5) Using this method, continue sewing pieces C and then piece D to make your block. This is what the back of the block will look like:

 
Front of the block:
 

(6) Press the block.

(7) Repeat steps (1) through (6) to make a total of 13 umbrella blocks

(8) Pin the ric rac in place and sew down the center of it using matching thread. Tuck the ends under to make it look more finished.

(9) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 3 rows:

(10) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 2 rows:

(11) Sew your rows together to make the quilt center.

(12) Attach the first (red) border to the top and bottom (shorter strips). Attach the longer strips to the sides.

(13) Create the gray pieced border:

  • Sew (6) 2″ x 9″ strips together. Square up to 9″. 

  •  Cut from corner to corner twice to make 4 triangles. 

  • Sew the triangles together. Notice that the strips will be going different directions. You can choose if you want them to miter or go the same direction. The point will go past the other piece by a little bit. That is what you want to happen. In the example, I chose to keep them all going the same direction. The strips will NOT line up. Don’t go crazy trying to make that happen. 

  • Sew additional triangles together until you have 4 borders with 9 triangles in each. 

  • The ends will have a point and aren’t quite long enough. You will need to unpick one end of the row. 
  • Sew the extra triangles to the ends of the rows to get them to the correct length and to make them square on the ends. The 4 border pieces should be 35″ long each. 

(14 )Pin the border to the quilt center and sew to the top and bottom of the quilt.

(15) Sew the 4 squares to the ends of the other 2 pieced border rows and sew these rows to the sides of the quilt.

(16) Layer, baste, quilt, and bind.

Above is a close-up of the quilting I chose. Feel free to do whatever quilting pattern you would like.


Finished Quilt Block: 7″ x 7″
Finished Quilt: 42″ x 42″

For more quilt tutorials and easy sewing projects, stop by {patchworkposse.com} or follow me on {Facebook}. You can also find me on {Pinterest}. Hope you enjoy this quilt!

Becky Jorgensen
{www.patchworkposse.com}

Summer Sand and Stars Quilt


  
Summer Sand and Stars is about stars! Big stars, little Stars, embedded stars, floating stars…all made from the same basic set of instructions.  Playing with shadows and color, it is the perfect picture of summer daydreams and night sailing.

This quilt is made from 12 large blocks, set in a 3 x 4 grid.  There is one border with one setting square.


  • Stars: 1 Fat Quarter Bundle – I used Catalina Batiks
  • Backgrounds:
    • 1¾ yards light – I used SKU #4328-41 from Summer Vacation Batiks
    • 2½ yards dark – I used SKU #4328-42 from Summer Vacation Batiks
  • Binding: ¾ yards – I used SKU #4329-29 from Catalina Batiks
  • Backing: 5½ yards  – I used SKU #4329-30 from Catalina Batiks
  • It will also be helpful to have at least 13 Ziploc sandwich bags to hold your pieces.
  • 3 pieces of printer paper – on which to print a paper foundation pattern for the tiniest stars. When you print the patter be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.  If it does not you can adjust its size by fiddling with the sizing on your printer. The Printer Friendly file at the end of this post has the foundation pattern for the star.

Determine Color Placement. Think of your quilt as a piece of 8½” x 11″ white printer paper.  In your mind, draw a line from one corner of the paper to its diagonal opposite. The colors in my quilt are loosely arranged along this line. The cooler colors (blues, purples, and greens) live in the north, above the line, and the warmer colors (reds, yellows, and oranges) live to the south, below the line. Sparkle happens when you let some of the colors drift across the imaginary border line.  It creates little pockets of interest that keep your eyes moving across the quilt.

 

Look at the gray scale drawing below.  Each block of the quilt is numbered.  The light and dark backgrounds are shaded respectively with white and dark gray.  The cold colors are black.  The warm colors are light gray.  Some blocks have three fabric in them.  Where this is the case an additional gray is used.

With all these things in mind, turn to your stack of fabrics. You want to select the fabrics for each square and label them accordingly.

Fat Quarter cutting diagram

Each Big Star (1 center square and 8 points) can be made from 1 fat quarter with enough left over to make one Center Star and a Tiny Star.   You could make the Big Star in block #2 and the Center Star in block #9, and one of the Tiny Stars in block #11 all from the same fat quarter, but no more

NOTE: Blocks 2, 3, 5, and 6 share a Quarter Star and so do blocks 4, 5, 7, and 8. You want to make sure that you use the same fabric for these pieces.

Block Types. There are 7 different block types in this quilt.  Their placement is illustrated in the drawing below and the block types are shown in the other diagram.

 

Before you start cutting, make labels for your blocks and block components so you can keep track of all the pieces. Label 13 different Ziplocs with numbers 1 through 13 (these are for the 12 blocks in the quilt top plus the star block pieced into the border). Make additional Post-It labels for each individual block and stick them on the Ziploc bags. Use Wonder Clips or paper clips to keep the pieces for each type of star together if desired.

  • Bag #1 | Labels for Big Star 1 (BS1) and Tiny Star 1 (TS1)
  • Bag #2 | Labels for BS2 and Quarter Star 1 (QS1)
  • Bag #3 | Labels for BS3, Center Star 1 (CS1), and QS1
  • Bag #4 | Labels for BS4  and QS2
  • Bag #5 | Labels for BS5, QS1, and QS2
  • Bag #6 | Labels for BS6 and QS1
  • Bag #7 | Labels for BS7 and QS2
  • Bag #8 | Labels for BS8 and QS2
  • Bag #9 | Labels for BS9 and CS2
  • Bag #10 | Labels for BS10 and CS3
  • Bag #11 | Labels for BS11 and TS2
  • Bag #12| Labels for BS12 and Tiny Embedded Star (TES)
  • Bag #13 | Labels for Tiny Floating Star (TFS)

CUTTING DIRECTIONS
Cut the pieces for one block at a time. When cutting from fat quarters, cut the biggest pieces you need first. When cutting background fabric, cut a 5½” x WOF strip.  Starting with the biggest pieces, cut all of your pieces from this strip.  Save any leftover bits and use them for the smaller cuts as you go.  You should have plenty of fabric.

BLOCK 1A | Big Star 1 + Tiny Star 1

  • BS1, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • TS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” x 2″ for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (3) 5″ squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Star
    • (4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Star
  • Paper Pattern for Tiny Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.

BLOCK 2B | Big Star 2 + Quarter Star 1

  • BS2, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square  for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 3C | Big Star 3 + Center Star 1 + Quarter Star 1

  • BS3, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • CS1, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • QS1, cut (1) 2¾” square  for center and (1) 3½” square for points
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for corners
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square  for Quarter Star corner
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points

BLOCK 4B | Big Star 4 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS4, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 5D | Big Star 5 + Quarter Star 1 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS5, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (2) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (2) 3½” squares for Quarter Star points
    • (2) 2¾” squares for Quarter Star corners

BLOCK 6B | Big Star 6 + Quarter Star 1

  • BS1, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 7B | Big Star 7 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS7, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 8B | Big Star 8 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS8, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 9E | Big Star 9 + Center Star 2

  • BS9, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for center block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • CS2, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (4) 5″ squares for Big Star corners
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

BLOCK NUMBER 10E | Big Star 10 + Center Star 3

  • BS10, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for center block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • CS3, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 5″ squares for Big Star corners
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

BLOCK NUMBER 11A | Big Star 11 + Tiny Star 2

  • BS11, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • TS2, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” x 2″ for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (3) 5″ squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Star
    • (4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Star
  • Paper Pattern for Tiny Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.

BLOCK NUMBER 12F | Big Star 12 + Tiny Embedded Star

  • BS12, cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star center
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Embedded Star
    • (4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Embedded Star
  • TS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” squares for points
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (4) 5” squares for corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
  • Paper Pattern for Tiny Embedded Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″

BORDERS + 13 G | Tiny Floating Star

  • TFS, cut (1) 3½” square for center and (4) 2½” squares for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 2″ squares for Tiny Floating Star corners
    • (4) 2½” squares for Tiny Floating Star points
  • Light background, cut (4) 6½” x WOF strips
  • Dark background, cut (4) 6½” x WOF strips

BINDING: cut (8) 2½” x WOF strips

If you have cut and labeled all of those pieces you deserve a break.  Step away from the table and the rotary cutter.  Go outside and breath some fresh air.  Gaze at the sky.  Listen to the sounds that surround you.  Breath.

Make sure you take a break after you cut your pieces.

SEWING DIRECTIONS
As much as you are tempted to create a production line, play it safe and make only one block at a time.

Block A

Block A {There are 2 A type blocks. Gather bags 1 and 11 plus foundation pattern for tiny stars.}

  • Tiny Star.  Make 1 tiny star per block. Use the tutorial located {here} to paper foundation piece the tiny stars.
  • Big Star.  Create Double Half Square Triangles (HSTs).
    • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 5½” background squares. Layer 1 background block with 1 star color block, right sides together. Sew ¼” on each side of the drawn diagonal line. Iron to set seams. Cut on drawn line to create 2 (HSTs). Gently iron seam allowances open. Trim to 5″ square. Repeat 3 times for a total of 8 HSTs.
Half Square Triangle Construction

  • Sew HSTs together in 4 sets of 2 so that the seam line marks the center of a large triangle of background fabric. Sew seam allowances open. Arrange pieces on desk or design wall in front of you to match drawing of block A.
Double HST

Piece A blocks together in rows, using the components you have created plus the background squares.

Big Star A, row 1
Big Star, row 2
Big Star, row 3

Iron seam allowances away from the double HSTs. Trim blocks to 18½” square. Create 2 of these blocks.

Block B

Block B {There are 5 B type blocks. Gather bags 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8.}

  • Quarter Star. Repeat process from A blocks to make 4 HSTs.Trim to 2¾” square. Join Quarter Star HSTs with background and print squares to make a Quarter Star unit as shown below. Trim to 5” square. Make a total of 5 Quarter Star units.

Quarter Star
  • Big Star. Repeat process as described for Block A replacing Tiny Star with Quarter Star when putting the block rows together. Be sure that the Quarter Star is on the outside corner of the block.

Block C

Block C. {There is only one type C block. Gather bag number 3.}

  • Repeat process for Quarter Star as described for Block B
  • Repeat process for double HSTs as described for Block A
  • Center Star. Repeat process for Big Star in Block A with smaller pieces. Use 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares for HSTs. Trim HSTs to 2¾” square. Arrange pieces to create a 9½” square star just like the big star but with 4 plain corners. Piece together the row components for block C:
    • Row 1: 5″ square background fabric; double HST with background triangle pointing down; 5″ x 5″ square background fabric.
    • Row 2: double HST with background triangle pointed to the right; 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ whole star block; double HST with background triangle pointing to the left
    • Row 3: Quarter Star with star fabric on bottom left edge; double HST with background triangle pointing up; 5″ x 5″ square background fabric
Block D

Block D. {There is only one type D block. Gather bag number 5.}

  • Repeat process for Block B replacing one 5″ background square with a Quarter Star
  • Rows 1 and 3 of this block are the same….but flipped.
Block E

Block E. {There are 2 E type blocks.  Gather bags 9 and 10.}

  • Repeat process for Block C replacing Quarter Star with a 5” background square.

Block F

Block F. {There is only one type F block. Gather bag number 12.}

  • Make Tiny star as described in Block A
  • Using Tiny star and (3) 5″ square star fabric make 4 patch.
  • Trim 4 patch to 9½”’ square to make center of block
  • Repeat process as described in Block A, replacing tiny star in corner with a 5″ square of background fabric.

Block G. {There is only one type F block. Gather bag number 13.}

  • Repeat process for Big Star in Block A with smaller pieces.
    • Use 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for HSTs
    • Trim HSTs to 2″ x 2″
  • Arrange pieces to create a 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ star just like the big star but with 4 plain corners.

QUILT ASSEMBLY
Make sure all blocks are trimmed to 18½” square and join them together as shown below.

Block placement

Block placement

  • Be careful to keep the Quarter Stars pointing in the right directions.  You want them to create whole stars when the blocks are sewn together.
  • Sew 4 rows of 3 blocks each
  • Iron seam allowances to the right in rows 1 and 3 and to the left in rows 2 and 4
  • Sew rows together to complete center of top

BORDERS

  • Gather setting star, block G, (4) 6½” x WOF strips light background,  and (4) 6½” x WOF strips dark background
  • Measure quilt. It should be something like 54½” wide by 72½” long. Record measurements:
    •  ___________ wide
    •  ___________ long
  • Sew 2 light background strips together along short edge, creating a strip that is approximately 6 1/2″ x 84″
  • Trim newly created strip to 6 1/2″ x length of quilt
  • Sew to lighter/warmer side of quilt top.  In the diagram it will be to the right.
  • Iron seam allowance towards the border.
  • Repeat process with dark background, sewing strip on the opposite side of the top.
  • Measure width of quilt and record _______________.  (It should be close to 66 1/2″)
  • Sew remaining dark background strips together to make a strip that is 6 1/2″ x width of your quilt.
  • Sew to top of quilt.
  • Iron seam allowances towards the border.
  • Sew remaining light background strips and setting star block G together, with the star on one end to make a strip that is 6 1/2″ x width of your quilt.
  • Iron seam allowance between strip and block towards the strip.
  • Sew to bottom of quilt making sure that the star block falls to the left side, under the light background border.
  • Iron seam allowance towards the border.

Layer, baste, and quilt as desired.

I hope you enjoy making my quilt.  Be sure to share it with the other Tops to Treasures quilters on the Tops to Treasures flickr group.

A fun 67″ x 85″ throw or topper for a star struck twin bed.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Christmas Ribbons Quilt


Shops are filled with holiday fabrics and we have a series of fun and festive quilts to inspire you to get that Christmas sewing done early this year!

14 Fat Quarters (Be Jolly by Deb Strain)
3 yards light background (Bella solids in Bleached White)
3/4 yard binding
4 1/2 yards backing


Iron and starch your fat quarters.  Make sure you have at least 16”x21” of usable material in each piece.  Cut each fat quarter into eight 5” squares and four 5.5” squares according to diagram:

From your background (white) fabric, cut:
twelve 2.5”xWOF strips (sashing)
eight 4.5”xWOF strips (border)
eight 5.5”xWOF strips
Subcut your 5.5”xWOF strips into 56 @ 5.5” squares.    Draw a diagonal line on all of these background squares:

I found it easiest to work with one ‘row’ at a time, so you are working with the prints from 2 contrasting fat quarters at a time (so no fabric mix-ups within the row are possible).

Pair each background 5.5” square with one of the print 5.5” squares cut from your fat quarters:

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the marked line:

Cut along diagonal line:

Press seam open:

Trim each HST (half square triangle) to 5”:

On each of the 5” print squares cut from your fat quarters, draw a diagonal line:

Pair each of the 5” squares with a 5” contrasting HST:

Align them so that the drawn diagonal line goes in the opposite direction as the seam on the HST:

Sew a scant 1/4” seam from either side of the drawn line:

Cut on drawn line:

Press seams open:

Trim off dog ears if you prefer (optional).  This creates two 3-patch quarter square triangles that are the mirror image of each other:

When you get all the 3-patch quarter square triangles done for each pair of fat quarters, then you can arrange them into the blocks.  Sort your 3-patch blocks into piles (there will be 4 different configurations).  Lay them out so that all the white triangles face toward you and the small print triangles face each other.  I found this the easiest way to keep everything straight.

Half of them will be for the A block, and half for the B block (B block top 2, A block, bottom two):

So, start with the bottom two piles:

There are 8 of each of these 3-patch blocks.  Seperate 4 from each pile:

And rotate them 180 degrees so the white triangle face away from you:

Now you can sew these 4 sets of 4 3-patch blocks into your A blocks:

The B block is assembled the same way:

Only, when you sew the B block to the A block, you rotate is 180 degrees.

There will be 4 ‘A’ blocks and 4 ‘B’ blocks (don’t forget to rotate the B blocks!) per row.  Sew these 8 blocks (alternating A block and rotated B block) into one long row:

(sorry, my ironing board wasn’t quite long enough to show the entire row!)

Repeat with the other 6 pairs of fat quarters.  When you have your 7 rows sewn, you can start to assemble them into your quilt top.  Sew your twelve 2.5”xWOF strips into pairs to make 6 longer strips.  Measure your rows (mine measured just over 67” at this point), and cut your 2.5” strips to that measurement.  Sew the strips between the rows:

With your eight 4.5”xWOF strips, sew them into 4 pairs and attach your border.  You should now have a completed top!

Layer, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!


An approx. 76” x 79” quilt!

Karin Vail
{cascadequilts.com}

Trifle Dish: Butterflies and 4-Patches

 
To make LAYER 8, use charm packs, Moda candy, and layer cakes to mix and match for a scrappy version. Fat quarters will yield more repetitive blocks.

For EACH Butterfly and 4-Patch block, you will need:

Fabric 1/Background

  • (1) 6″ square
  • (4) 2¾” squares

Fabric 2/Butterflies

  • (1) 6″ square

Fabric 3/4-Patch A

  • (2) 2¾” squares

Fabric 4/4-Patch B

  • (2) 2¾” squares

Block Dimensions: 9″ x 9″ (finished) / 9½” w x 9½” h (unfinished)

Note that the above fabric requirements won’t yield a completely scrappy block. Mix and match the block components in the row for a truly scrappy look.

You will need an additional (5) strips of background fabric measuring 2½” x 9½” to complete the row.

Suggested precuts: Fat quarter bundle, charm packs, layer cakes

 
1.  Create quarter square triangles/hourglass blocks for the butterflies. Mark a pencil line along the diagonal of 1 background 6″ square. Place right sides together with a butterfly 6″ square. Sew a ¼” seam on each side of the pencil line. Trim along the opposite diagonal and then trim each piece on the pencil line to create 4 hourglass units.

Piece hourglass units together to create (2) 5″ unfinished butterfly blocks. (Mix and match butterflies between blocks in the row for a scrappier look.)

make 2 per block

2. Make 4-patch units. Join 1 background 2¾” square with 1 print 2¾” square to create a 2-patch unit. Press to the darker fabric. Repeat to make one additional 2-patch unit. Flip one 2-patch unit so the background fabric is opposite the print fabric and sew a ¼” seam. Press to the darker fabric.

Make (2) 4-patch units for this block. They should measure 5″ unfinished.

3. Join butterfly and 4-patch blocks to complete the block as shown.

4. Make 5 more blocks to complete the row. Add (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips between blocks to make the row measure 64″ wide (finished)


1 row, measuring 64″ x 9″

Block design by Trish Poolson of {Notes of Sincerity}

Trifle Dish: Posies


 
To make LAYER 6, use jelly roll strips, which is particularly useful when using this block for an entire quilt top. The posies block is very precut friendly and you can substitute almost any other cut – fat eighths, fat quarters, and layer cakes. Note that there are two versions of the block, one with top sashing and one with bottom sashing, which gives the posies movement.

For EACH Posies block, you will need:
Fabric 1/White Solid:

  • (1) 2 ½” squares
  • (2) 2″ squares
  • (1) 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangle
  • (8) 1 1/4″ squares

Fabric 2/Flower Top:

  • (2) 2″ squares
  • (4) 1 ½” x 2 ½” rectangles

Fabric 3/Flower Bottom (green print):

  • (4) 2″ x 2 1/4″ rectangles
  • (1) 1″ x 3 ½” rectangle

Block Dimensions: 4″ x 8″ (finished) / 4½” w x 8½” h (unfinished)

You will also need (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” strips (one in between each flower) of background fabric to make the row equal 64″

Suggested precuts: Jelly rolls, fat quarters, fat eighths, layer cakes

 
1.  Use (2) 2″ flower top squares and (2) 2″ white solid squares  to construct 4 HST’.  Trim to 1 ½” square.  Press toward print fabric.

2.  Sew an HST onto each end of a 1 ½” x 2 ½” flower top rectangle as illustrated.  Press toward center.  Make 2.

3.  Sew a 1 ½” x 2 ½” flower top rectangle to each side of a 2 ½” white square as illustrated. Press away from center.  Sew the 2 units made in Step 2 to the top and bottom of the rectangle unit. Press toward center.

4.  Draw a diagonal line across the back of all the (8) 1 1/4″ white squares.  Use the stitch and flip method to sew (1) 1 1/4″ white square onto the lower left and upper right corners of a green 2″ x 2 1/4″ rectangle.  Make 4, taking care with directional fabric.  Press toward the white.

5.  Sew together the dog ear corner units made above. Add 1″ x 3 ½” rectangle between them as the flower stem.

6.  Sew the flower top to the flower bottom.  Press seam toward flower top.   Press toward the white.

Sew the white 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangle to the top or bottom of the flower (you will alternate to give the flowers movement in the row). The block should measure 4 ½” x 8 ½”

Note:  To complete the strip a total of 13 flowers are needed.  7 of them should have the last white rectangle sewn to the top and 6 should have the rectangle sewn to the bottom.  I used a total of (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” strips (one in between each flower).


1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″

Block design by Corey Yoder of {Little Miss Shabby}

Trifle Dish: Pinwheels



 
To make LAYER 3, use charm squares to create a scrappy version. One layer cake and a fat quarter will make a non-scrappy version.


For EACH Pinwheel block, you will need:
Fabric 1/Background: 4 – 5″ squares
Fabric 2,3,4,5/Pinwheels: 4 – 5″ squares (mixed prints or cut from one or two prints)

Suggested precuts for scrappy version: fat quarters, layer cake

 
1. Create 4 half square triangle (HST) units from 2 charm squares

  • With right sides together, sew a scant ¼” seam on each side of the charm squares. 
  • Trim along the diagonal of the HST unit to create 4 half-square triangles.
  • Press to the darker fabric.
  • Square up each HST to 2½”.

Make 16 sets of HSTs per block.

2. Lay out your block pieces as shown.


Piece together in rows.


Press well.
3. Repeat steps 1-2 to make 7 more blocks (8 total).

4. Join 8 blocks to form Layer 3.


1 row, measuring 64″ x 8″


Block design by Amanda Castor of {Material Girl Quilts}