Jelly Roll Race Remix Quilt


Hello, Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts back again this month with yet another Christmas in July project!

2 Jelly Rolls (or 2 jelly roll race quilt tops – or a combo of the two!)  I used 24th and Pine by Basic Grey
2/3 yard for binding (or use leftovers for a scrappy binding)
1 yard inner border (cut into 8@ 4.5”WOF strips)
1 1/2  yards outer border (cut into 8@ 6.5”WOF strips)
5 yards backing

Probably most quilters have tried this at one point or another –  a ”Jelly Roll Race” (JRR) quilt top.  It works up fast for sure – but makes a rather ho-hum quilt.  I made one myself years ago, but it was not ever destined to be made into a quilt after I finished the top and didn’t love it.
So, WHAT do you do with a JRR quilt top that you love the fabric, but don’t love the design?  Rework it by adding yet another JRR top to the mix…..
Now, there are lots of JRR quilt tutorials out there, so I am not going to go into how to make those.  What I am going to explain is how I remade these two JRR tops into a beautiful quilt with MUCH more visual interest!  These JRR tops will each measure around 50”x64” to begin with.

Yes, I made TWO identical JRR tops, but you could certainly make two different tops and use this same technique.  It is similar to a ‘bargello’ technique.  If you did this, I would alternated between strips from the two JRR tops to get a uniform look throughout.
First, take one JRR top and fold it in half so that the top strip can be sewn to the bottom strip – so you make a JRR ‘tube’.  Think of it like a *giant* trip-around-the-world block setup.  From that tube, you will cut cross-section strips.   Here the seam has been sewn to make the tube and it’s again folded in half horizontally so I can do the subcutting.
In this quilt, I cut my strips 2.5” so that I have 2” squares in my final quilt, but you can certainly change it up and cut varying widths of strips!
For the first strip, take apart one seam between blocks.
The next strip, you will take apart the next seam up from the one you took apart on the first strip, and so on.
To make it easier to keep track and keep them in the right orientation (how they came off of the original JRR top), I cut only a few strip tubes at a time and sewed them a few at a time.
Match up your seams and sew the long verticle seams.
Where the fabrics change, you will get several almost-half square triangles.  Or, you might luck out and get a perfect HST in the mix too:
You should be able to get twenty 2.5” strips from each JRR ‘tube’, so with two ‘tubes’ you would be able to get a total width of 80” if you used it all.  But, since the length of the quilt is only 64” at this point, and I didn’t want an 80×64 quilt,  I decided to stop at 64” wide and add borders to enlarge it and have a balanced quilt.  I personally prefer a square quilt since you don’t have to worry which side is ‘up’ that way 🙂  If you are using 2 identical tops, cut 20 strips from one top, and 12 from the second.  If you are using 2 different JRR tops, then cut 16 strips from each JRR ‘tube’.
Now, take your 8@ 4.5”WOF strips and sew them into pairs to create 4 longer strips.  Measure your quilt top, cut border fabric to match, and sew the border on top and bottom.  Mine measured 64.5”.  Press, measure the length you will now need for the sides and cut your remaining border strips to length, and sew on left and right sides.  Mine measured 72.5”.
For your second border, take your 8@ 6.5” strips and sew them into pairs.  Again, measure your quilt top as per the first border.  My first measurement for the top/bottom was 72.5” and second for the sides was 84.5”.


A generous 84”x84” quilt!

Karin Vail
{Cascade Quilts}

Applique Hearts Pillow

 

Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you this simple Applique Hearts Pillow tutorial just in time for Valentine’s day. Depending on what fabrics you use, the pillow can be used year round. This pillow has an easy envelope enclosure, making this a quick and fun weekend project that you can complete in a few hours.

Also, I wanted to share that I have a quilting book coming out this year, so come check out my blog for details (or for some great tutorials!), or follow me (and my corgi, Paige) at Quilting in the Rain’s Facebook to see my latest quilts and projects. Thank you so much for stopping by! Let your creativity rain!

  • 1 yard Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it) 
  • 1 Bella Solids charm pack in Porcela, plus one scrap for the colored heart
  • Clear glue that works on fabric
  • Coordinating thread
  • 20″ square pillow insert


1. From the prairie cloth, cut one 21″ square. For the back of the pillow, cut two 15″ x 21″ rectangles (these will be made into the envelope closure).

From the charm squares, cut hearts of varying shapes and sizes. I think the variety and imperfection of the heart shapes adds character to the pillow. To cut a big heart, simply fold a charm square in half and crease it with your finger so it stays folded. Then, use fabric scissors to cut the arch of ‘half of a heart’ along the folded edge. When you unfold it, you will have a heart shape.

To make smaller hearts,  repeat but cut two hearts from one charm square. 

I started by cutting approximately 8 big hearts, and then filled up the pillow with smaller and medium sized hearts. Also, from your scrap fabric cut one medium-size colored heart.
2. Next, arrange the hearts on the 21″ square.
3.Use clear glue that works on fabric to temporarily hold the hearts in place. Use very little glue as this is just an alternative to using pins and is meant to be temporary. For each heart I put the tiniest drop of glue and then spread it with my finger to make a very thin layer.
This is the glue I ended up using but i’m sure Elmers would work just as well. I just recommend getting a clear adhesive.
4. Sew the hearts in place using a regular presser foot. I simply guided the edge of my presser foot along the heart to sew a 1/4″ seam allowance, using a straight stitch setting.
If you’ve never done this before, to get around the curves of the heart you will need to stop and pivot the fabric quite often. To do this, simply stop sewing with the needle in down position, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric underneath to follow the curve. You’ll get the hang of it. 🙂 
5. Along the length of a 15″ x 21″ rectangles,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place as shown below. Repeat on the other rectangle as well.

6. With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/2″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow.

Clip the corners to rid of bulk and then turn right side out through the envelope opening.

7. Lastly, rub your hands up and down the pillow to help ruffle-up the edges of the hearts. The semi-freyed and ruffled hearts adds texture to the pillow. The freying will not go beyond the stitch. 

And there you have it! A beautiful, applique heart pillow!


One fabulous 20″ x 20″ pillow

Thanks again for checking out my tutorial! Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com or follow me on Facebook at QuiltingintheRain. You can also find me on Instagram.

Let your creativity rain! 🙂

Jera Brandvig
{www.QuiltingintheRain.com}

Big Hearted Quilt


Hello again from Robin at Craft Sisters. It’s great to be back sharing a quick and easy project. This one could be fun for your February table or wall. And… adorable tucked around your littlest Valentines in the car or the stroller. I’ve made two so far in two different Moda lines but both in luscious pinks and reds. One from Sandy Gervais’, Table for Two and the other using Deb Strain’s, Surrounded By Love. The idea for this was to make a big, modern, Log Cabin-ish looking block. One Moda Candy or Charm Pack makes the heart and two half-yard pieces are used for the backgrounds.




1            Moda Candy or Charm Pack – Table For Two – heart
½ yd.     Diamond 1775611 – Table For Two – background 1
½ yd.     Rose 1775513 – Table For Two – background 2
⅜ yd.     Rose 1775613 – Table For Two – binding
1 yd.      Backing fabric
1 yd.      Low loft batting


Layout the heart
Place the 42 – 2.5″ squares from the Moda Candy or Charm Pack on a design wall or floor. 

If you are using a Charm Pack, cut 42, 2.5″ squares (obviously more color choice with charm pack). 

Audition color placement of squares until you get the color arrangement that you like. It’s fun to play with it. I ended up using darker squares to outline the heart so it would stand out in the photograph. Make the heart more subtle and pixelated looking, by mixing up the colors more.


Cut background squares, strips and complete quilt layout

Cut the squares and strips from background fabrics 1 and 2 as shown on the quilt layout map (it’s at the end of this post). 

Following quilt layout map, add background squares and strips to design wall around the heart. It always looks completely wrong to me when laid out like this, but feels great when it all comes together after sewing.


Sew squares and strips to form horizontal rows
Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout this project. It really helps in matching up squares if you sew a consistent seam width, ¼” or scant… 

Press seams in opposite direction. This avoids bulk and makes it easy to nest seams when sewing everything together.


Sew the rows together
Start sewing the rows together in the order you like, top to bottom, from center out, bottom to top. Whatever makes sense to you.

Press seams in one direction.


Make a quilt sandwich
Layer backing, batting and quilt top. Baste using pins, spray, or use fusible batting. Quilt simply or more dense, whichever you prefer. This is a good one to try your free motion quilting on because of the size.





One small but Big Hearted quilt for February or anytime. Mine finished at approx. 28.5″ x 29.5″. Hope you try this one and have fun doing it. And please stop by my blog over the weekend. www.craftsisters.com/robins-blog.html There’s a giveaway for some Table for Two background fabrics to use in this project. – Robin

Robin Nelson
{www.craftsisters.com}

Redbird and Berries Mini Quilt


Greetings Moda Bake Shop readers and Happy New Year!   It’s Karen from Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals Blog excited to share the “Redbird and Berries” mini-quilt with you!

Oh so luscious Mini Charms of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey were used for the border of this cute little wall hanging while scrumptious coordinating Grunge fabrics were used for the background and applique pieces.

The recipe includes a bit of piecing, applique, free motion and straight line quilting.  You’ll also learn to make Perfect Circle berries and bias stems.   I hope you find the variety intriguing because when you’re done the mini quilt will *Charm* all who see it!

Quilt Border:

  • 3 or 4 Mini Charm Packs of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey  (88 2.5″ fabric pieces)

Applique Background:

  • 14.5″ by 22.5″ Grunge Basics Cream (30150-160) by BasicGrey

Applique Pieces:

  • 1 Fat Quarter Grunge Basics Grey Couture (30150-163) by BasicGrey for Stems
  • Fat Eighth or Scraps of Grunge Basics Kissing Booth Cherry Cordial (30150-167) or Grunge Red (30150-151) by BasicGrey for Bird and/or Berries
  • Scraps of Black and Reddish Orange Fabric for Bird Mask and Beak – I used Moda Black and Grunge Radish

Batting/Backing/Binding

  • 27″ by 35″ piece of fabric for backing
  • 27″ by 35″ batting
  • 1/4 yard of  fabric for binding
  • Perfect Circles or heat resistant template plastic or thin cardboard for berries
  • Freezer Paper or Template Plastic for making applique templates
  • Clover Bias Tape Maker – Size 6 (1/4″) for tree stems
  • Spray Starch or Sizing for Berries
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2325 for Piecing and Border Quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2000 Quilting Background
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2460 for Red Applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2605 for Gray Stem Applique 

Pre-cut Basics:  

Before working with Mini Charms it’s helpful to run a lint brush over the edges.  This will reduce the amount of “little fuzzies” adorning your workspace 😉

Also, when working with any of the Moda Pre-cut fabrics always treat the outer most tip of the pinking as the edge.  This is especially important when piecing – the accuracy of your piecing depends on it.

For the piecing on this project you’ll need to know exactly where your 1/4 seam mark is on your sewing foot.  The walking foot below is clearly marked — I LOVE using it for accurate piecing.  

Measuring Seam Allowance Accuracy:

A great way to test the accuracy of a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance is by sewing three mini charms together.  Press to set the seams, press the seams to one side, flip over and measure. The middle charm should measure exactly 2 inches wide.  If not, adjust your seam allowance until it does.

Now lets get started with our recipe:

Step 1:  Layout/Design the border:

Layout your mini charms in a manner which is pleasing to YOUR eye.  Each quadrant of the border will be 11 charms high by 2 charms wide for a total of 22 charms in each of the 4 quadrants.   The complete border will use 88 charms.

I’m one of those CRAZY symmetrical types so a scrappy layout wasn’t in the cards for me.  Instead I designed one quadrant at a time, alternating light and dark pieces and making the opposite quadrant a diagonal mirror image.  Checkout the picture below.  I love the checkerboard effect!

To duplicate the layout above you will need 4 Mini Charms packs.  If you would rather go scrappy or change the layout you can get away with using 2 Mini Charm packs and cutting 4 mini charm pieces from one of your grunge fabrics 😉  Overall you’ll need 88 2.5″ square pieces of fabric for the border.

Step 2:  Sew a Border Quadrant (for each of the 4 quadrants):

Once you’ve finalized your border layout/design, pick one quadrant and sew the pairs together – chain stitching all 11 pair of your light/dark fabric.  Chain piecing allows you to quickly sew the 11 pair without cutting your thread.  Once you’ve chain stitched the 11 pair are all attached in the correct order.

When finished chain piecing 11 pair of a quadrant, remove them from your machine and lay them (still connected to one another) on your ironing space with the darker fabrics facing up.  This allows you to “set” your seam by pressing them flat, and then pressing again in the desired direction – in this case it’s best to press toward the dark fabric.

On a checkerboard layout, pressing toward the dark will enable you to nest your seams when you sew your pairs into 4 x 2 and then into 8 x 2’s and so on.  Nesting your seams allows for more accurate intersections.

Clip the threads attached to the first 2 pair and prepare to sew 2 – 2×2’s into a 4 patch.
Nest the seams for accurate alignment, pin and sew.  Repeat this effort until you’ve created an 11 x 2 quadrant of your border.

If you are following a light/dark arrangement (checkerboard) with a pattern to your layout (like I did), I suggest stopping and spot checking your order as you sew ; )  I ALWAYS take a picture of the layout before beginning to sew.  Use the picture to be sure you are sewing your pairs and your 11×2 sections together in the desired arrangement.

Once you have a quadrant that is 11 long by 2 wide,  press to set the seams, and then press all the seams of a quadrant in the same direction.  For ease of attaching to the background fabric you can press this way:

  • right side border should be pressed downward
  • left side border pressed upward
  • bottom border pressed to the left
  • top border pressed to the right.  

Each of the 4 quadrants should measure 22.5 inches long and 4.5 inches wide.

Once all 4 quadrants are prepared, it’s time to put it all together!

Step 3: Cut background fabric and attach borders:

Using Grunge Cream cut a piece of background fabric 14.5″ by 22.5″.

Attach the side borders to the background fabric first, press to set the seams, then press the seams toward the border.

Next attach the top and bottom borders, setting the seams and pressing them toward the border.  You only have two seams to match on this border — so simple 😉

Woohoo!  Now your top is ready for the applique. The top should measure 22.5 inches wide by 30.5 inches long.

Applique:

The applique on the sample was completed by hand, but you can use your favorite applique method to complete yours.  The stems, berries and bird can be done with two sided fusible, raw edge machine applique, or any other applique method.  The sample was completed with bias stems, perfect circle berries, and a needle turn applique Redbird.  You can learn more about Needle Turn applique by visiting the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Prep 1 – Prepare Strips for Bias Stems:

You will need 10 or so 1/2 inch bias strips of Grunge Gray Couture.  If you’ve never made a bias strip before, don’t worry — just follow these simple steps:

  • Start with a fat quarter of Grunge Grey Couture
  • Iron your fabric – cut a straight edge if there isn’t one already.
  • Most rotary rulers include a 45 degree angle mark on them – find it on your ruler.
  • Lay the 45 degree angle mark on the selvage edge of your fabric.  This will align the cut edge of your ruler on a 45 degree angle. 
  •  Use a rotary cutter and cut a straight edge on the bias (the diagonal above).
  • Gently slide your ruler over to the 1/2″ mark (with the 45 degree line still on the selvage) and cut a 1/2 inch strip.
  • Repeat this process until you have 10 or more 1/2″ strips cut on the bias.

Note: Use Caution when handling the strips — when fabric is cut on the bias it will easily stretch.

Applique Prep 2 – Make Bias Stems:

  • Using the Clover #6 – 1/4″ Bias Tape Maker (BTM) feed one end of your 1/2″ bias strip through the wide end of the BTM with fabric right side up.  Use a pin to advance the fabric through the BTM to the narrow end if necessary.  Leave about 1/2″ of the strip showing on the narrow end.
  • Position your iron so the side of the iron is against the narrow end of the BTM.
  • Note: The BTM instructions say to move the tool with the hand that is not ironing — but I prefer to use the iron to move the tool.
  • The iron should be set on a “Cotton” heat with steam and a fair amount of pressure should be applied as you glide the iron over the fabric to make the bias stem.  Once you start pressing to the left  – keep going – don’t stop mid strip. 
  • Some would suggest you use a light starch on the fabric before beginning to make the tape — feel free to do so – it makes the bias tape hold its shape. 

Completed bias stems:

Applique Prep 3 – Make Berries:

Using Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Circles templates choose the 1/2 inch diameter template.  If you don’t own Perfect Circles, use the heavy piece of cardboard that backed your Mini Charm pack to cut a template.  

  • Cut 65-75 1″ circles for berries — I used a variety of fabrics, including Red Grunge, Moda Marbles and some of the extra Little Black Dress mini charms. Use a US Quarter coin to cut 1″ circles if necessary.
  • Once the 1 inch circles are cut , hand sew a running stitch around the perimeter of the fabric circles – leaving approximately a 6″ tail of thread attached to the fabric circle. Do not knot the thread after you’ve finished the running stitch.
  • Place a Perfect Circle template in the center of the fabric.  
  • Pull the thread taut around the Perfect Circle, drawing the fabric tight around the template.
  • Place the unit right side down on the ironing surface, spray a bit of starch or sizing on the back side of the drawn fabric and place a medium heat, dry iron on the piece(s) until the berry is completely dry (a minute or two depending on how much spray starch you use).
  • Remove the iron, allow the berry and template to cool, then peel the edge of the fabric back to  remove the  template.  
  • Reshape the circle by pulling the thread taut again and press once more to set the circle.

A collection of berries: The sample contained about 75 berries and included some berries made from the leftover Little Black Dress 2 mini-charms (not shown below).

Applique Step 4  – Layout and Attach Stems to Background:

Layout stems in a manner which is pleasing to your eye.  If you would like your completed work to look like the sample, use the “Final Applique Layout” picture (below) to arrange the stems and berries.

I use pins to secure the applique stems to the background prior to stitching.  This method allows the stem to float for re-arranging.  You can also baste or glue baste the stems in place for stitching.

Once arranged, use an invisible stitch (similar to the stitch used for needle turn applique) to attach the stems to the background.   You can see more about applique stitch here.

A couple of tips when working with stems:

  • When stems are made on the bias they are very flexible – so they curve easily.  Just pin or glue or baste in the position you like.
  • To hide a raw edge tip of a stem fold the end under once and secure when you sew the stem.
  • Create a fork in your stems by tucking the end of a stem under another section of stem or by folding a long piece of stem in two.
  • You don’t need stems that are so long they are unmanageable.  Just put one stem end against the other and sew — place a berry on it to cover the intersection if you like. 

Attach your stems to the background fabric by hand or machine.  Again, you can learn more about needle turn applique on the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Step 5 – Layout and Attach Berries and Bird:

Berries or Redbird first?  The choice is yours.  I did a few berries and then the Redbird and finished up with Berries.

Arrange and pin some berries in place.  I limited the number pinned at one time so my threads were not getting caught on the applique pins. 

Stitch the berries by hand or machine.  If stitching by hand use the same “invisible” stitch used on the stems and used for most needle turn applique.

Applique  – Prepare and Applique the Redbird:

Note: The Redbird applique template can be found in the “Printer Friendly” version of this recipe.

In the sample, Needle Turn applique was used for the Redbird, his mask, and beak – but any method can be used to complete this step.  I won’t go into Needle Turn Applique techniques here but please visit my blog and/or leave me questions below if you run into trouble completing the bird.  I do have pictures of each applique step and would be happy to share them on my blog if it would be helpful.  Please let me know.

Normally, to prepare applique shapes, I would print the applique templates directly onto the dull side of a piece of freezer paper; however, for this recipe I decided to use template plastic so I could fussy cut the Redbird from the beautiful Grunge fabric. If you’re using turned applique, trace the bird onto the fabric with any of the marking tools identified here and cut out with an 1/8″ plus seam allowance.

Did I mention how much I LOVE Grunge?  – OR – how well it goes with the Little Black Dress 2 fabric line?   It really is a beautiful line of fabric.  No kidding!!

Next applique the bird to the background.  Stitch the body first, then the mask, and lastly the beak.

If you haven’t done so already, finish attaching all of your beautiful berries to the background. Each berry adds dimension to the overall design.  I didn’t fret much about making my berries perfect – because in real life they are not.  The sample berries were stitched by hand.

Final Applique Layout:

Note: Often when you applique a quilt top, the overall dimension gets smaller.  The applique stitching tends to pull in the sides of a quilt top.  No need for concern — the quilting will probably shrink it more!

Prepare for Quilting:

If you are unfamiliar with the steps necessary to prepare a top for quilting, there are detailed instructions specified in the Family Tree Pillow Recipe here.

For the sample I used two layers of batting to provide both loft and stability.  One layer of 100% Wool Batting and one Layer of Warm and Natural Cotton batting.

I also pieced the back for this particular quilt.  The backing measured 27″ x 35″.

I started quilting by straight line stitching around the perimeter of the background fabric and again around the perimeter of the first rows of charms.  I almost always “stitch in the ditch” to stabilize the quilt before starting to Free Motion Quilt.

For the background quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50 Wt Cotton in Color #2000.  This thread glides through my Janome and I never get thread breaks.  The color matches the Grunge Creme perfectly!

Always be sure to match your top and bobbin threads when Free Motion Quilting.  So we are now echo quilting around each applique piece (removing pins as necessary).  Once done repeat the echo quilting around all applique and stems.  In hindsight I wish I had echo quilted one more time before starting my background quilting.  As you can see below, I quilted in some mock berries to add interest.

To complete the background quilting I used a “McTavishing” like design – a variety described as “Nifty Little S’s” shared by Wendy Sheppard of Ivory Spring Blog. This design is so forgiving and allows you to move around the applique pieces with ease.

Once the background quilting was completed I added some straight line quilting (with a walking foot) on the mini-charms.  I used a walking foot as a width guide and quilted every 1/2 inch around the perimeter of the background.  The straight line stitching shows up best on the back of the quilt.  For this quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50Wt Cotton in Color #2325.  Again, I just love the way the Aurifil quilts – I couldn’t be happier with this thread!

Below is another picture that shows the pretty straight line quilting on the charms.

When finished quilting, the sample “squared” to 21.5″ wide by 29.5″ long.  The applique and dense quilting ate up 1 inch each of the width and length.

The next step is to prepare hanging sleeves and binding as desired.  There is a great Moda Basics Tutorial for Binding here.

The sample binding was completed using a 2.25″ wide binding (folded) and a 3/8″ seam allowance to sew it on the front and hand stitch it to the back.  I also added two hanging sleeves (either side of the middle) using two 5.5″ by 8.5 inch pieces of fabric.

If you’ve made it to this point of the tutorial congratulations!   I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about bias stems, Perfect Circles, applique and some free motion quilting.

Working with these methods opens a new door to the world of quilting doesn’t it ?    It’s sew much fun!

One 21.5″ x 29.5″ Wall Hanging or Table Topper or Mini Quilt.

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Please be sure to swing by my blog and check out my tutorials, lessons learned and completed projects.   I would love to have you join the fun and give me feedback on this recipe.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller
{www.karensquiltscrowscardinals.blogspot.com}

Table Top Turkey Trot

Hello! Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and a Joyous New Year to you! Things have been quiet recently at my online home at Sewing by Moonlight, but I hope you will come visit anyway.

I had hoped to have this project ready to post for you by Thanksgiving, but it seems my reality does not allow for a one week project turn around time. So, here we are, just in time for Christmas, a Thanksgiving table runner.

The turkey is ready. She even wore her Santa hat for the festivities!

1 Layer cake – I used Floral Gatherings by Primitive Gatherings for Moda
1 1/4 yards backing fabric
1/2 yard of coordinating fabric for binding
Fusible web for appliqué
20″x47″ piece of battting
Template for dresden feathers and turkey body

Click {here} to dowload dresden feather and turkey body templates. The templates are also available in the Printer Friendly Version at the end of the post.

Embroidery floss for turkey eyes and beak, and embroidery needle

1. Determine the layout of your table runner. 
Alternate placing two squares together (these will be the maple leaf blocks) with single squares (these will be the background color for your dresden turkeys. This table runner has 5 turkey dresdens and 5 maples leaves, but you could easily make it longer or shorter.

2. Cut the fabrics for your maple leaf blocks.
Stack the two fabrics for the maple leaf block together, and cut as shown in the diagram below. Following this cutting diagram will ensure that you maximize the fabric in each 10-inch square.

2a. Begin by cutting a 3.5 inch strip from one side. Sub-cut two 3.5 inch squares from this strip. Save the remaining 3.5 x 3 inch piece to use for dresden feathers. 

2b. From the remaining 6.5 x 10 inch piece, cut across the width 5.5 inches from the edge. Sub-cut this piece into a 5.5 inch square and a 1 x 5.5 inch strip.

2c. Finally, cut one additional 3.5 inch square from the last piece of the layer cake square. Save the leftover 3 x 4.5 inch piece to use for dresden feathers. Add the final 3.5 x 1 inch strip to your scrap bin.

3. Create the maple leaf block. 
Use the pieces you just cut for the maple leaf block.

3a. Place the two 5.5 inch squares right sides together. Sew 1/4 inch from the edge all the way around the perimeter. Cut the square apart along both diagonals into four sections. Iron each piece open and trim the half square triangles to 3.5 inches.

3b. Cut one of the 3.5 inch squares of the leaf background fabric in half along the diagonal. Sew the 1 x 5.5 inch strip of leaf foreground fabric into this piece for the leaf stem.

3c. Arrange the block units into a maple leaf shape. Sew the block together and trim to 9.5 inches.

4. Create the dresden feathers
Using the template you downloaded above (under Ingredients), cut out the dresden pieces. Each turkey will require 12 dresden feathers. Since we have 5 turkeys in this table runner, I needed 60 dresden pieces. Use the unused pieces you saved from cutting out the leaves as well as additional layer cake squares.

4a. Fold each dresden piece length-wise and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge of longer width (not the longest side, that’s the length. Rather the longer of the two shorter sides. Clear as mud? See below.) This is an excellent opportunity for chain piecing.

4b. Trim the corner of each piece, flip the stitched side toward the inside to create a point and iron the piece flat so the point is centered.

4c. Sew 12 dresden pieces into a partial circle. Press the two raw edges 1/4 inch in to the wrong side.

4d. Trim the background square for the turkey to 9.5 inches. Fold in half and press. Open the square, fold in half the other direction and press again.

4e. Align your partial dresden circle so it is centered horizontally on the background square and two dresden pieces on each side fall below the horizontal center line. Pin the dresden in place and edge stitch all the way around.

5. Add a turkey body appliqué to your dresden feathers. 
Using the template, create an appliqué body for each turkey. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your fusible web and arrange the body so the head is centered and the body covers the raw edges at the center of your feathers dresden.

Use a tight zigzag stitch around the turkey body, or use another appliqué method of your choice.

If desired, add features (eyes, beak) to your turkey faces with embroidery floss or your sewing machine.

6. Arrange your maple leaf and turkey blocks in an alternating pattern. Stitch together. 

7. Use 10 of the remaining layer cake squares to create a backing for your table runner. 
Layer the runner top, batting, and backing together. Quilt and bind as desired.

One autumn appropriate table runner, made up of ten 9-inch finished maple leaf and dresden turkey blocks, measuring 18 x 45 inches.

Em Komiskey
{sewingbymoonlight.com}

Mason Jar Tea Cozy

Mason Jar Tea Cozy


I can never get enough tea in the winter, and love to use quart-sized mason jars to fuel my addiction.  These jars are designed for canning, so adding boiling water is perfectly safe! This tea cozy insulates the jar (and protects your hands!) nicely, and it is also great in the summer for keeping your drink cold and preventing your glass from sweating.

Extra bonus – screw the lid on for a handy, spill-proof travel mug. Double-extra bonus – it’s perfect to make with scraps if you don’t have Charm squares handy!

These make a great holiday gift, especially paired with a box of your favorite tea! I’ve got a few more simple holiday gift ideas coming up soon at my blog at WaterPenny.net.

8 Charm squares – or an equivalent measure of scraps
Two pieces of batting measuring 14″ x 6″ and 5” square.

Extra fabric for optional accents
Button

Assemble the sides – finished sides should measure 13×5. Gather your fabric and batting:
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

  • Sew together three charms and trim down to 13×5 inches. 

Optional: OR, you can piece the fabric as desired, as long as the end product is 13×5. If adding applique or other fabric design, do so at this stage.

  • Layer outside fabric with quilt batting and sew layers together, quilting as desired. I did a quick wonky checkmark pattern, but this is a great place to try something new. (Note: You can pin before sewing, but I find ironing the layers together makes them hold quite nicely in a project this small.)
  • Trim off any extra batting.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

  • Sew the short ends of the outside fabric (right sides together) to form a loop. Use a generous quarter inch seam (as opposed to a scant quarter inch).
  •  Repeat with the inside fabric to create a 13×5 piece of fabric sewn with the ends sewn together to form a loop (right sides together).
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

Assemble the bottom:
  • Cut out two 4″ circles from charms and one circle from your batting. I trace a four inch embroidery hoop for this step.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

  • Fold circles in half twice and iron to create folded lines as shown below (top right) – with the crease lines marking four equal quarters.
  • Layer your outside bottom circle with the batting as shown below (bottom right).
  • Now take the side pieces from the previous step, and fold these in half twice; iron to create four fold lines – marking four equal quarters.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

  • Next, line up your four fold lines on your bottom circle and your side piece (right sides together). Pin where fold lines meet.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com 
  • After I have my fold lines pinned together, I add a lot more pins! 

Note: In the outside layer, which has a layer of batting in the bottom circle, take care when pinning to make sure you are catching both the fabric layers and the batting layer together.

    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

    • Everything pinned? Sew the bottom layer to the sides, pulling the pins out as you go. This is the trickiest part. But you’re almost done!
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com 


    Put it all together:

    • Turn the inside piece right side out.  Tuck this inside piece into the outer layer, so that right sides are together and the batting is on the outside. Pin along the top  at the fold lines.
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com
    • Sew along the top of the two pieces, using a quarter inch seam allowance. But wait! BE SURE to leave a two inch gap unsewn:
    • Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com
    • Now reach in there to pull your piece right side out through the two inch gap you left unsewn at the top. You’re almost there!
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

    • Tuck the inner lining in. I usually iron the top for a nicer finish, folding in the unsewn seams.
    • Topstitch around the outer edge to finish.

    Optional: Attach a cute vintage button to hang your teabag from so it doesn’t get lost in your mason jar!

      Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

      Make it your own! 

      You can add binding around the top – just like a quilt! One the cozy below on the right, I used Aneela Hoey’s Sew Stitchy Spools, and added a fat binding using standard quilting methods to the top.

      One Mason Jar Tea Cozy
      Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for Modabakeshop.com

      Let me know if you have any questions! I’d love to see your own spin on the cozy mason jar cover!
      Happy Sewing! 
      Dana Kuhnline

      Elfin Sleeping Bag and Pillow


      Hi everyone, it’s Chris Warnick from www.frecklemama.com again with a simple project that is perfect for the holiday season, gifts for the grandkids, or a even a beginner project for teaching the kids to sew.

      Do you have a small elfin creature who comes to visit you in the night?  Maybe just during the winter months?  Well then he or she is probably getting chilly right about now.  Have a heart and make the poor fella a sleeping bag with a comfy pillow.  It is a quick and easy project that can also be used to make placemats!  Let’s get started.

      52 Moda Candy Mini-Charm Squares for the sleeping bag and pillow exterior – I used In From The Cold by Kate Spain (Note: I actually used scraps so I have more repetition than a Candy pack will provide.)

      1 piece of backing fabric for the sleeping bag interior 12 1/2″ x 16 1/2″  (Note: my interior piece is pieced from two fabrics.)
      1 piece of batting 12 1/2″ x 16 1/2″
      Small handful of polyfil or some cotton balls for stuffing the pillow


      Ric-rac, piping, ruffles, ribbon, buttons or any other trims desired to make your sleep sack “fancy”

      To make the sleeping bag exterior, select 48 mini-charm squares and sew together into pairs.
      Once in pairs, layout the mini-charms to create two panels, each 4 squares across and 6 squares down.  (Set aside the remaining two pairs for the pillow.)  These panels will be the front and back of your sleeping bag.

      Sew the pairs together to form the two panels.

      Sew the two panels together to make one big panel.  This is the sleeping bag exterior.

      Next grab your batting and backing/interior piece.  Each should have the same measurements of your exterior panel (12.5″ x 16.5″ in my case).  Below is my exterior panel on top of my backing to check that they are the same size.

      Place batting down first, then the exterior piece right-side up next, followed by the backing right-side down.  See photo below for clarification.  Basically, you are placing exterior and interior pieces right-sides together (RST) and then placing that pair on top of your batting.
      

      Now sew around the entire rectangle leaving a 3″ gap for turning. I like using a “green for go” and “red for stop” pin to remind me to leave the gap:

      Clip the corners to reduce bulk.  Flip the whole thing through the gap and poke out the corners with a chopstick or knitting needle.

      Press into a pretty rectangle, paying special attention to making your gap nicely pressed.

      Top stitch close to the edge around the entire rectangle.  This will automatically close the gap.

      If you just want a great table mat, placemat, or very large mug rug, stop here!  Enjoy your finished item!  If you are making the sleeping bag, you’re almost done.

      Quilt a stich line straight down the middle.  If this panel is an open book, you are quilting down the spine.  This helps stabilize the batting to keep it from bunching.  You can also quilt the entire panel if desired.

      Now, close your “book” by folding the piece in half.  Begin sewing the two sides together about two squares down from the top.  Sew carefully since there are many layers.  Sew down to the corner and around to close the bottom.  Notice that I pinned the corner to keep it from shifting:
      To tack the flap open, use a hand sewing stitch in the corner.  Be sure to sew just through one layer rather than sewing the bag closed in that spot.

      Someone has his eye on this already.  It’s a little wide for him, but his plush friends might enjoy the extra elbow room. 

      
      If your elfin friend wants a snugger bag, adapt the pattern to result in an exterior that is 3 squares across rather than 4.  That would look like this:

      But wait, no one wants to rest their weary head on a cutting mat, do they?  Let’s make a pillow to go with the sleeping bag.  Grab the two pairs of squares left over from your original panel layout. 
      

      Place these pairs right sides together and sew around the entire rectangle leaving a 1″ gap for turning.  Clip the corners and turn right-side out.  Stuff the pillow with polyfil by using very small bits to prevent lumps.

      Pinch the gap closed and fit under the presserfoot.  Topstitch around pillow edges, naturally closing the gap.  You may need to shift the stuffing around to help get the edges of the pillow under the foot.

      AHHHH, much better!  Sleep tight little elfin friend.
      One doll-sized sleeping bag and pillow.  Hopefully your elfin friends won’t be caught sleeping on the job!
      Have a wonderful holiday season, and be sure to share your Moda Bake Shop projects on the Flickr page!  If you have any questions or are looking for a quilt pattern for your human-sized friends, please come visit me at www.frecklemama.com.
      Happy sewing!
      Chris Warnick
      Frecklemama