Beach Ball Baby Quilt

Hi! This is Jess from The Elven Garden with my first recipe for Moda Bake Shop. I wanted to challenge myself to see if I could make a quilt using just a jelly roll (Sphere by Zen Chic), and I came up with the Beach Ball lap/baby quilt. It does use a fat quarter of background solid as well, but other than that a jelly roll is all you need!

This quilt is made using large equilateral (60 degree) triangles, arranged so they form hexagons across the quilt top. The layout options for the hexagons are unlimited – if you would like to have a play with some other layout options, you can download and print triangular graph paper here. This quilt measures 45″ x 50″, but you could easily make it bigger by using additional jelly rolls.

One Jelly Roll of Sphere by Zen Chic
One Fat Quarter (or quarter yard) of Bella Snow
1/2 Yard Binding fabric
2 1/2 Yards backing fabric
50″ x 55″ piece of batting

All seam allowances throughout the tutorial are a scant quarter inch, and I have pressed my seams open at all stages.

Begin by sorting the jelly roll into colour sets, separating the lighter value prints (in this case the grey and white based prints) from the darker ones.

Next, split each colour into sets of three strips. Some of my strip sets included one strip with a contrast in colour or value.

Sew each of these strip sets together along the long edge. For the strip sets with one contrasting strip, make the contrasting strip the central strip in the set, as this will form a continuous ring within the hexagons. Press your seams open.

Each strip set should measure 6.5″ wide by width of fabric.

Cut each of the strip sets into equilateral triangles using either a 60 degree triangle ruler:

Or using the 60 degree line on your ruler, lining up the line on your ruler with the bottom or top of the strip set.

Continue down the strip set, flipping the strip set or ruler as you go. You will end up with 9 triangles from each strip set.

To avoid trimming off the sides of the quilt, and losing some of the width of the quilt, I added setting triangles at the end of each row. To make these, cut strips the same width as your strip sets (6.5″) from your fat quarter of background fabric. Make a 60 degree cut with your ruler, and then make a vertical cut, 4″ in along the long edge, and 1/4″ from the shorter side (see below). If you would prefer to give yourself more wiggle room when squaring your quilt, you can make the setting triangles a little wider (4.25″ in from the long side).

Continue along the strip, cutting a total of 16 setting triangles. 

At this stage, you could lay out your pieces and start piecing the rows together. I found it easier to piece together my darker coloured triangles into half-hexagons first, as it was much easier to switch them around on my design wall until I found a layout I liked. It also makes it easier to keep your triangles in the correct order as you are sewing the rows together. 

Do not sew the light value (grey and white) prints in this way.

When sewing these half hexagons together, match up the seams along one edge and pin at each seam (I pin the side of the seam that will be sewn first). 

You will end up with three half-hexagons from each strip set. Do not trim off the little triangles formed at the outer corners, as these are very useful when aligning your triangles when sewing the rows together.

STEP 7: 
Lay out your pieces into rows according to the photo below, or as desired (here I have 8 rows of 12 triangles, plus a setting triangle at the end of each row). If you place them carefully, the light value triangles will form partial hexagons that appear to be sitting behind the coloured hexagons.

When sewing the triangles into rows, you will need to offset the pieces slightly to account for the seam allowance and produce a straight row. It is helpful to use the little ‘tags’ of fabric produced by pressing your seams open when lining up your pieces. In the photo below, you can see these ‘tags’ on the bottom left and top right of the half-hexagons. 

When the pieces are placed together ready to be sewn, they will cross each other at an angle like so (the seam to be sewn is at the right of the photo):

If we look more closely at these pieces, you can see how the ‘tags’ where the seams have been pressed open allow you to line up the two pieces.

Once your rows are sewn, sew your rows together in pairs, carefully pinning each of the points where your seams meet, so that your points will meet up. Because there are a lot of bias edge in the quilt top, it is possible to ease (or slightly stretch) some of your pieces to make the points meet.

Continue sewing the rows together in pairs, until you have a complete quilt top. 

Baste, quilt and bind as desired! To make your backing, cut two 15″ by width of fabric strips from one end of your backing fabric. Join these end to end to make one long 15″ wide strip. Remove the selvedges from the remaining backing fabric, and join the long strip you just made to one side of the backing fabric using a 1/2″ seam. 

One lap quilt, 45″ x 50″

Jess Frost

Main Squeeze Quilt

Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I am a new chef here, and I am honored to be a part of the Bake Shop. I blog at Live. Love. Create. and love bright, bold colors and modern designs. My quilt design was named Main Squeeze based on the X and O blocks it creates, like a “hugs and kisses” quilt. This pattern yields a large throw sized quilt, 60 by 80 inches when finished.

19 Fat Quarters of coordinating colors, I am using Sphere by Zen Chic.
3 1/4 yards solid or print for background fabric, I used Moda Bella white
3/4 yard solid or print for binding, I used Sphere by Zen Chic
4 1/4 yards coordinating solid or print for back, again I used Sphere by Zen Chic

Step 1:  From your background fabric, cut

12 – 10.5 inch squares
24 – 5.5 inch squares
48 – 6 inch squares
24 – 2.5 inch squares

Step 2:  For the rings, I labeled each ring with the letters A-J, then labeled the half-square triangles number 1 and the “gem” square number 2. The blocks I call “gem blocks” are the squares that just have the small triangle in the corner, as seen below.

So the first ring on the top left of the quilt will need two different fat quarters, fabrics labeled A1 and A2, and so on.  Each ring in my quilt was made up of the same color fabric in two different prints, and the amount needed is based on this layout. You can download a printout of this quilt, so you can test your color combinations here. I think it would also look great if the “gem” blocks are a contrasting color to give each ring some pop.

From your 19 fat quarters cut the following.

A1: (6) 6 inch squares            
A2: (2) 5.5 inch squares              
B1: (2) 6 inch squares
B2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
C1: (8) 6 inch squares
C2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
D2: (1) 5.5 inch square
E1: (8) 6 inch squares
E2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
F1: (2) 6 inch squares
F2: (2) 5.5 inch squares

G1: (6) 6 inch squares
G2: (2) 5.5 inch square
H1: (8) 6 inch squares
H2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
I1: (6) 6 inch squares
I2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
J1: (2) 6 inch squares
J2: (1) 5.5 inch square

To keep everything organized, I kept all my fabric and blocks labeled with sticky notes throughout the quilt top assembly, like in the picture below.

Step 3:  Sew your half-square triangle blocks. Take one 6-inch background piece and lightly draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner on the back. Repeat this for all your 6-inch background pieces.

Step 4:  With the right sides together, place one background piece and one A1 square together. Sew a scant 1/4 inch away from the line you drew on your background piece, and repeat on the other side. Your block should look like this when both sides are sewn.

Repeat for all remaining blocks labeled 1.

Step 5: Cut your half square triangles in half diagonally, on the line you initially drew. Press the seams to the darker print.

Step 6: Carefully trim your half square triangles to 5.5 inches. I line up my blocks with the seam on a 45 degree line on my mat, with a little bit of overhang on each side. I like to cut from all four sides to yield a more accurate cut, but be careful, you will not have much waste!

Step 7: Take your 2.5 inch background pieces and again lightly draw a line from one corner to the other.

Step 8: Place one 2.5 inch background piece in the corner of one 5.5 inch A2 block. Sew just off of the line, on the side closer to the corner.

Note: If you sew directly on the line you drew, when you press your block out you will lose a tiny amount from each block.

Step 9: Trim excess fabric 1/4 inch from the seam. You can also opt to leave this fabric on for extra stability. Press the seam toward the background fabric.

Repeat steps 8 and 9 for all of your blocks labeled 2.

Step 10: Grab four of your A1 half-square triangles (HSTs) and sew together to create a “V” block. I pressed the seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat with four B1 HSTs, and four C1 HSTs.

Step 11: Take one A2 block, one B2 block and two 5.5 inch background pieces and sew together to form a bow tie block, like the following diagram. I pressed seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat for one block with a B2 and C2 block and one block with a C2 and D2 block.

Step 12: Arrange your first row according to the diagram below and sew together. If you are pressing your seams in order to nest them together, you want to press the first seam (between your A1 “V” block and A2/B2 bow tie block) to the right.

Step 13: Repeat step 10 with four A1 HSTs and eight C1 HSTs. Layout your “V” blocks with your 10.5 inch background pieces according to the diagram below.

Step 14: Make one “V” block each using your A1, C1, and E1 HSTs. Make one A2/E2, one C2/E2, and one C2/F2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 15: Make two E1 “V” blocks and one F1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 16: Make one “V” block each using your G1, E1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/E2, one E2/H2, and one F2/H2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 17: Make two H1 “V” blocks and one G1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 18: Make one “V” block each using your G1, I1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/I2, one H2/I2, and one H2/J2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 19: Make two I1 “V” blocks and one J1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 20: Pieces your rows together and press well. I like to sew two rows together at a time. So instead of sewing them on in order, adding each row individually, I sew rows 1 & 2 together, then rows 3 & 4, etc. Then I sew one of the double rows to another double row, and end by sewing the two halves of the quilt top together. I find that it is easier to sew the top together this way so you do not have all the weight of the quilt top when you sew each row on individually.

Step 21: Cut your background fabric into two 68 inch x width of fabric pieces. Remove the selvages and you should have two pieces that are 40-42 inches wide.

I also grabbed all of my scraps and pieced them together to make a 10 inch x 68 inch patchwork piece. Without this piece your back may not be large enough, since I like to have my quilt backs measure 8 inches larger than my tops on all sides. If you would prefer not to use scraps, you need to cut one more piece of background 10 inches by the width of fabric and substitute it for the scrap strip I show below.

Sew together your back according to the diagram below.

Step 22: Cut a piece of batting 64 inches x 84 inches and baste your quilt together. Quilt as desired. I straight line quilted my rings in alternating directions, like a volleyball.

Step 23: Bind and finish your quilt. You will need 290 inches of binding for the quilt. I cut 7 fabric strips that measured 2.5 inch by the width of fabric.

One generous size throw quilt, measuring 60 by 80 inches to snuggle under.

Thank you so much to Moda for letting me share my quilt! I would love to see any of your creations from this tutorial in the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group. Thank you for stopping by!

Kelly Smith
{Live. Love. Create.}

Mister DJ Quilt

Hello Moda Bake Shop Friends!   Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting here and I am so excited to be sharing a new quilt with you today.  My oldest son is the only person in the family that did not have a homemade bedspread.  It has been put on hold because he was insistent on have “cool” fabrics.

Sphere by Zen Chic was the perfect fit and I set out to make an equally “cool” design.  Inspired by my son’s love for music (of all varieties and volume 🙂 Mister DJ was created and can I just say,  he loves it!!!  So do you have a tween that needs a new bedspread as well??  Well, let’s show you how to do it 🙂

To make a twin sized 70″ x 89″ Mister DJ quilt you will need:

2 Sphere Jelly Rolls
2 Yards of Bella Solid Grass
5 1/2 Yards of Backing


Begin by separating your jelly roll strips into 2 piles, one of Low Volume (or light) prints and one of High Volume (or dark) prints.

From the High Volume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
      2 1/2″ x 11″        2 1/2″ x 10″          2 1/2″ x 9″        2 1/2″ x 8″           2 1/2″ x 7″
      2 1/2″ x 6″          2 1/2″ x 5″            2 1/2″ x 4″        2 1/2″ x 3″           2 1/2″ x 2″
I found the easiest way to do this is to stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and  repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.  (You will have to cut a few from the scraps as you will have 40 strips and not 42)

From the LowVolume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
      2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
      2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″            2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
Once again,  stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.

Now, pair each High Volume piece with the opposite size Low Volume strip.  So the 11 1/2″ goes with the 2″ and the 10 1/2″ goes with the 3″ and so on down the line.  Set these aside for the moment.

From the Bella Solid Grass yardage cut the following:
  (9) 2 1/2″ x wof (width of fabric) strips to be used for binding
  (10) 1 1/2″ x wof strips – Trim the selvage and sew 2 strips end to end to create (5) 1 1/2″ x 84 strips.
   (210) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles


Now with the cutting done you are ready to start assembling the blocks.   Grab the first set of your grouped fabric strips  (The 11 /2″ Low Volumes and 2″ High Volumes).  You will be sewing these into a row by first sewing the Solid Grass rectangle to the Low Volume strip and then second, adding the print strip to the Solid Grass Rectangle.

The easiest way to do this is by chain stitching.  (Meaning, not clipping your threads after each strip but continually feeding strips through the machine until you are done with your pile.)  Start by placing the Grass rectangle onto the Low Volume strip with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 of your sets.  Clip the threads between your strips.

Now, you can add the High Volume strip.  Place the High Volume strip onto the Grass rectangle with right sides together and again chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 strips.  Clip your threads.

Now repeat this process for each of your (10) grouped sets of 21 strips.  In the end you will have 210 pieced strips total.  You want the Low Volume print to always be on the top.   Press your strip sets.


With your strips all set, you are ready to start sewing your blocks together.  So take all of your strip sets and mix them up in a large pile.

Now, grab 2 random strips and place them right sides together taking care that the Low Volume print in both strips is on the top and the High Volume print is on the bottom.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the side of the strip, aligning the edges as you sew.  Chain stitch 30 of these to make 30 strip sets of 2.  Clip the threads between the 30 sets.

Now, you are going to add a third strip to the sets of 2.  Align another randomly chosen strip along the side of the second strip with the Low Volume prints on top and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  If you happen to have randomly chosen a strip where the Grass Rectangle is in the same spot as the strip set, take care to match the seams.  You can just align these with your fingers as shown.   Chain stitch all 30 sets.

Clip your threads between your sets and you are ready to add a fourth row.  Continue this process until you have added a total of 7 rows in each set.    Clip the threads between sets.

So now you will have 30 blocks each consisting of 7 vertical rows that have the Low Volume prints on top and the High Volume prints on the bottom.

Press the seams in the blocks to one direction.  They should now measure 14 1/2″ square.


And now you can put your quilt top together!   Layout 6 rows of 5 blocks.  Play with the layout until it is pleasing to the eye.  Once you have layout complete mark the blocks so you remember which row is which 🙂  Now, sew the blocks into rows.  To do this, just place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  The place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue in this fashion until all 5 blocks in the row are sewn together.  Repeat for all 6 rows.

Now place a Grass Sashing Strip that you made clear at the beginning onto to the top of rows 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning the fabric as you sew.

Press all of the seams towards the sashing.  Trim the excess sashing at the end of each row.

Now sew the rows together.  This is just like making the rows only on a larger scale.  Place row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam towards the sashing.   Now place row 3 onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam.  Continue in this fashion until all the rows are sewn together.

And your quilt top is complete!!!  Great job!!!


Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   Cut your backing into 2 pieces 99″ x WOF and piece together with a 1/2″ seam.   You will use the 9 strips you cut and set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

One ultra modern, High/Low Volume  70″ x 89″ Mister DJ twin sized quilt.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Mister DJ Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry

Snuggles Plus Quilt

I am so happy to be returning to the Moda Bake Shop with this quick-to-make but amazing little quilt! I blog over at, and I would love you to stop over and visit!

I have to say that I LOVED working with the Snuggles fabric by Moda.  It was a dream to use and my quilter loved it too!  This turned out a perfect size at 45″ X 50″ to use as a baby quilt or a lap quilt. You could make it larger with just a few adjustments too.

I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did.  Let’s get started!

  • 2-Sphere Charm Packs (1540PP)
  • 2 yards 60″ Snuggles (60000 43) Aqua For top and backing
  • 1/2 yard Sphere (Teal 1541 20) for binding 
  • 1/4 yard Bella Solids Feather (9900 127 ) This is a really, really light gray.
  • Cotton Batting
  • Thread 

  • Choose 48 Charms for the center of the quilt.  Ten of these will be used to make the plus blocks. 
  • Choose 22 additional blocks for the 2 side borders, 11 for each side.  I chose to leave most of the yellow out because I wanted an icy looking quilt to go with my aqua Snuggles. 
  • Cut Twenty 1.5″ x 6″ strips from your Feather solid.  These will be used to make the + in the plus blocks.  

Making the Plus blocks:

After you have chosen your 10 charm squares, cut them in half.  You should have two halves that measure 2.5″ x 5″.

Lay one 1.5″ x 6″ strip between the 2 cut halves of the charm square

Sew strip to one half of the charm square

Trim the solid strip even with both sides of the charm square, it should be 5″.

Sew the other half of the charm you cut to this first unit making sure to align edges.
Cut the charm in half again at the 2.5″ alignment. (don’t worry about the other measurement)

Lay another 1.5″ x 6″ strip of your solid between your two cut halves. Sew to one of these halves.

Trimming even with the edge of the charm.  Don’t worry that they are not 5″ at this point, you will be trimming them up soon.  Sew this to the matching half and press.

Trim your plus block to a finished size of 5″.  You can see that when I used my 5.5″ ruler the plus lines up beautifully and made the trimming a snap!

This is what your finished plus blocks should look like.  I chose 10 plus blocks but you can make more if you like or use none at all for a really quick quilt!  If you make more you may need a little more of your solid!

I like to chain piece so I cut all my pairs and lined them up to sew at one time.

Yeah for chain piecing!!

Now comes the fun part!  Using a design wall begin to lay out your rows.  I changed mine around a LOT!  That’s part of the charm (get it?)

Once you are happy with the placement you can sew your charms into rows.

I pressed all my seams open so it would lie as flat as possible when paired with the Snuggles.

Next I cut the Snuggles that would alternate with the rows of charm squares. First I cut Five 5″ strips. Then  I measured my rows and they were 36.5″.  I then cut my Snuggles to fit my rows.  Please measure yours before you cut and use that measurement.

Once you have all your Snuggles cut to fit your quilt rows you can begin to pin your rows together and sew.

I pinned at every seam and with one in between.  I was not certain how the Snuggles would be to work with but it was just great!

Start with a charm square row then a Snuggles row.  There will be 5 of these sets.  The last row will be a charm square row. I wanted this to be easy for my long arm quilter to quilt so I thought I should not have the more stretchy fabric on the outside of the quilt.  Although she did tell me that the Snuggles was much easier to work with than some of the other comparable fabrics.

Once you have all your charms sewn to your snuggles you will have 5 of these sets.  Sew them together to make the center of your top, making sure to begin and end with a row of charms.

I put the top back on the design wall and added the charms I was planning on using for the borders in place.  This allowed me to move squares as necessary until I was happy with the final placement.

Alternately you could do this when you lay out the top too.  Either way works!  Once you are happy with the placement of your side borders sew the charms into a row (remember they will go on the quilt vertically just in case you are using directional fabrics!)

Pin your borders to your top being careful to match the intersecting seams as you do so.  Sew your borders to your top.

Your top is now complete and ready to sandwich and quilt!
I chose large intersecting circles to echo the design of the Sphere fabric. 
  • For binding cut your strips from the teal Sphere fabric at 2.5″ (or as you desire).  
  • Join the strips, and bind using your favorite binding method.
  • Quilt, bind and ENJOY!  You just finished a great little quilt!

This pattern makes a 45″ x 50″ quilt.

I hope you have enjoyed my tutorial.  I would love to hear what you think!
I really enjoyed making this quilt and would love you to stop by my blog and visit!
In addition, I had a lot of fun tromping around in the snow with my friend, Robin, getting photos of this little quilt too.  = )
If you make one of these I would love to see it!  Please add it to my Flickr group or look me up on Instagram (mamaspark59) and post a photo there so I can see it!

~ XOP~
Pamela Lincoln