Garden Girl Quilt

 

We’re back…Yep, it’s been awhile since Kelli and I have had a quilt for you here at Moda Bake Shop. We’ve been really busy.  We sent our quilt book, scheduled to come out in early 2015, to our publisher.  Kelli’s been taking college classes and we bought an old foreclosure house that we are remodeling.  You can read all about that and see pictures on our blog, Jo’s Country Junction.  With all that going on you’d think we’d not have time to to sew anything else..NOT!!  Sewing is therapy for us and trust me, we need therapy.  Besides, who can resist a great fabric line like MoMo’s Avant Garden…not us!  Read the pattern here then stop over to our blog and we’ll fill you in on some behind the scenes info about the quilt and we have a sweet $50 gift certificate for one our readers to win.

Before we get going here are a few stats on the quilt.

Finished Block Size:  10”
Finished Quilt Size:  80” x 90”

Layout:  8 x 9

Fat Quarter Bundle of MoMo’s Avant Garden
4 yards Blue Background
4- 1/3 yard cuts of coordinating solids/dots
5 1/2″ yards backing
3/4 yard binding

**Note WOF means the width of the fabric**

Pick 24 fat quarters from the bundle.  From Each (of 24) fat quarters cut:
                -Cut 2- 7 1/2″ x 21” strips.  Subcut 1- 7 1/2″ x 21” strip into 2- 7 1/2″ squares
                -Cut the remaining 7 1/2″ x 21” strip into 1- 7 1/2″ square and 2- 3 ½” x 13.5” rectangles. 
                -Cut the 2- 3 1/2” x 13 1/2″ strips into a total of 12- 2” x 3 1/2″ rectangles.
                **From each fat quarter, you will need a total of 3- 7 1/2″ squares and 12- 2” x 3 1/2”                                  rectangles.
From Blue background fabric:
                -Cut a total of 36- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut into a total of 576- 2” x 2 1/2″ rectangles.
                -Cut a total of 29- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut into a total of 576- 2” squares
From Each of 4 coordinating solids/dots (cornerstones):
                -Cut 4- 2” x WOF strips
                                -Subcut each strip into a total of 72- 2” squares of each color (288- 2” squares)
From binding fabric:
                -Cut a total of 9- 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.
Sewing Instructions (for one block):
1.  Using 4- 2” squares and 4 matching 2” x 3 1/2″ rectangles, place a blue square, right sides together, on the corner of each of the colored rectangles.  Sew from corner to corner on the blue square.  

Trim seam allowance to a quarter of an inch.  Press to the blue.  Add a second square to the opposite side of the printed rectangle.  Again, sew from corner to corner of the blue square.  Trim seam allowance to a quarter of an inch and again, press to the blue. 

 Repeat for each matching colored rectangle.

2.  Attach a 2” x 2.5” rectangle to opposite sides of each flying goose created in step 1.  Press to the blue rectangles.

3.  Attach a 2” colored square (cornerstones) to opposite ends of two of the units created in step 2. 

 Attach the remaining two segments created in step 2  to the opposite sides of the main 7 1/2″ colored squares.  Press to the colored center.

4.  Attach the remaining segments (with cornerstones) to opposite sides of the block.  Press to the colored middle.

5.  Repeat to make a total of 72 blocks.
6.  Arrange in a 8 x 9 layout sewing the blocks first into rows then sewing the rows together.
7.  Quilt as desired. Check out our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see what we did for a quilting design.

8.  Join binding strips and bind.


Finished Quilt Size:  80” x 90”

This is such a fun fabric line…perfect for picnics and perfect for any girls room.  We couldn’t resist the fabric!!


Jo and Kelli Kramer
{ Jo’s Country Junction}

Beach Umbrella Quilt


Hello everyone! I’m Becky from Patchwork Posse. Today I am sharing the quilt pattern for a cute and beachy umbrella quilt. During the summer I find that a little bit of shade goes a long way! These umbrellas are all about giving you a place to hide away from the heat. The fun contrast in the Weeds fabric collection with red, blacks, and grays is perfect for showcasing the fun print on the umbrella. Even though there is curved piecing in this quilt, once you get the hang of it, you can quickly sew all the blocks together. The key is pinning. You will be using pins. A lot of them. If you notice one umbrella is facing the wrong way….I did this on purpose. You don’t have to do that if you don’t like. I find it fun to add something a little ‘off’ in quilts.

  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in red for the umbrellas
  • 5 to 10 fat quarters in gray for the block backgrounds
  • ½ yard fabric for spacer blocks (I used a light gray on dark gray polka dot); cut into (12) 7″ squares
  • 1½ yards of red ric rac for umbrella handles; cut into (13) 4″ pieces
  • Coordinating thread for top-stitching the ric rac
  • ¼ yard red fabric for 1st border; cut into (2) 2″ x 32″strips and (2) 2″ x 35″
  • 4 to 5 gray fat quarters for 2nd border; cut into (60) 2″ x  9″ strips
  • 1 fat quarter for cornerstones; cut into (4) 4″ squares
  • {Beach Umbrella Quilt template at the end of the Printer Friendly file}

(1) Cut out the umbrella pieces using the {templates}. Make sure you pay attention to the grain line arrow on the template. This will help keep the curves on the bias which will be a lot easier to sew. I used red for the umbrella parts and the dark gray and black for the background. Notice that section D is the bottom of the block and where you will be sewing the ric rac handle. NOTE: when cutting your fabric make sure you ADD 1/4″ to each. If you don’t, your blocks will be too small.

(2) Pin the center of piece A to the center of piece B- the will be curved in different directions.

 

(3) Pin the ends of the pieces together.


 

(4) Sew across this edge, stopping every few stitches and easing the edges together. When you get to the center, leave your needle down and adjust the rest of the piece.

(5) Using this method, continue sewing pieces C and then piece D to make your block. This is what the back of the block will look like:

 
Front of the block:
 

(6) Press the block.

(7) Repeat steps (1) through (6) to make a total of 13 umbrella blocks

(8) Pin the ric rac in place and sew down the center of it using matching thread. Tuck the ends under to make it look more finished.

(9) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 3 rows:

(10) Taking your spacing blocks and your umbrella blocks, sew 2 rows:

(11) Sew your rows together to make the quilt center.

(12) Attach the first (red) border to the top and bottom (shorter strips). Attach the longer strips to the sides.

(13) Create the gray pieced border:

  • Sew (6) 2″ x 9″ strips together. Square up to 9″. 

  •  Cut from corner to corner twice to make 4 triangles. 

  • Sew the triangles together. Notice that the strips will be going different directions. You can choose if you want them to miter or go the same direction. The point will go past the other piece by a little bit. That is what you want to happen. In the example, I chose to keep them all going the same direction. The strips will NOT line up. Don’t go crazy trying to make that happen. 

  • Sew additional triangles together until you have 4 borders with 9 triangles in each. 

  • The ends will have a point and aren’t quite long enough. You will need to unpick one end of the row. 
  • Sew the extra triangles to the ends of the rows to get them to the correct length and to make them square on the ends. The 4 border pieces should be 35″ long each. 

(14 )Pin the border to the quilt center and sew to the top and bottom of the quilt.

(15) Sew the 4 squares to the ends of the other 2 pieced border rows and sew these rows to the sides of the quilt.

(16) Layer, baste, quilt, and bind.

Above is a close-up of the quilting I chose. Feel free to do whatever quilting pattern you would like.


Finished Quilt Block: 7″ x 7″
Finished Quilt: 42″ x 42″

For more quilt tutorials and easy sewing projects, stop by {patchworkposse.com} or follow me on {Facebook}. You can also find me on {Pinterest}. Hope you enjoy this quilt!

Becky Jorgensen
{www.patchworkposse.com}

Christmas Ribbons Quilt


Shops are filled with holiday fabrics and we have a series of fun and festive quilts to inspire you to get that Christmas sewing done early this year!

14 Fat Quarters (Be Jolly by Deb Strain)
3 yards light background (Bella solids in Bleached White)
3/4 yard binding
4 1/2 yards backing


Iron and starch your fat quarters.  Make sure you have at least 16”x21” of usable material in each piece.  Cut each fat quarter into eight 5” squares and four 5.5” squares according to diagram:

From your background (white) fabric, cut:
twelve 2.5”xWOF strips (sashing)
eight 4.5”xWOF strips (border)
eight 5.5”xWOF strips
Subcut your 5.5”xWOF strips into 56 @ 5.5” squares.    Draw a diagonal line on all of these background squares:

I found it easiest to work with one ‘row’ at a time, so you are working with the prints from 2 contrasting fat quarters at a time (so no fabric mix-ups within the row are possible).

Pair each background 5.5” square with one of the print 5.5” squares cut from your fat quarters:

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the marked line:

Cut along diagonal line:

Press seam open:

Trim each HST (half square triangle) to 5”:

On each of the 5” print squares cut from your fat quarters, draw a diagonal line:

Pair each of the 5” squares with a 5” contrasting HST:

Align them so that the drawn diagonal line goes in the opposite direction as the seam on the HST:

Sew a scant 1/4” seam from either side of the drawn line:

Cut on drawn line:

Press seams open:

Trim off dog ears if you prefer (optional).  This creates two 3-patch quarter square triangles that are the mirror image of each other:

When you get all the 3-patch quarter square triangles done for each pair of fat quarters, then you can arrange them into the blocks.  Sort your 3-patch blocks into piles (there will be 4 different configurations).  Lay them out so that all the white triangles face toward you and the small print triangles face each other.  I found this the easiest way to keep everything straight.

Half of them will be for the A block, and half for the B block (B block top 2, A block, bottom two):

So, start with the bottom two piles:

There are 8 of each of these 3-patch blocks.  Seperate 4 from each pile:

And rotate them 180 degrees so the white triangle face away from you:

Now you can sew these 4 sets of 4 3-patch blocks into your A blocks:

The B block is assembled the same way:

Only, when you sew the B block to the A block, you rotate is 180 degrees.

There will be 4 ‘A’ blocks and 4 ‘B’ blocks (don’t forget to rotate the B blocks!) per row.  Sew these 8 blocks (alternating A block and rotated B block) into one long row:

(sorry, my ironing board wasn’t quite long enough to show the entire row!)

Repeat with the other 6 pairs of fat quarters.  When you have your 7 rows sewn, you can start to assemble them into your quilt top.  Sew your twelve 2.5”xWOF strips into pairs to make 6 longer strips.  Measure your rows (mine measured just over 67” at this point), and cut your 2.5” strips to that measurement.  Sew the strips between the rows:

With your eight 4.5”xWOF strips, sew them into 4 pairs and attach your border.  You should now have a completed top!

Layer, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!


An approx. 76” x 79” quilt!

Karin Vail
{cascadequilts.com}

Avant Garden Turning Squares Quilt


Hello!  I am Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here today with a tutorial for a quilt using MoMo’s gorgeous new fabric line Avant Garden.  I made this quilt nice and big with picnics in mind, but it is just as good for snuggling.  However you use the quilt, this is a quick way to make a big quilt using jelly rolls.

2 Jelly Rolls Avant Garden
1 Yard Mochi Unbleached Linen
4 1/4 Yard Linen Mochi Dot Boysenberry
Batting at least 76″ x 76″

You will need 72 total jelly roll strips for this project.  I chose to cut a few 2.5″ x Width of Fabric strips and mixed them in with my jelly roll strips, but the jelly rolls have more than enough strips.  Set aside the extra strips for future projects or use them to make your binding.
Take 36 of the jelly roll strips and cut them down to 2.5″ x 12.5″.  Cut the remaining 36 strips down to 2.5″ x 6.5″.  You will need a total of (108) 12.5″ strips and (216) 6.5″ strips.  It sounds like a lot but the precuts make it quick work!
For each block you will need (3) 2.5″ x 12.5″ strips and (6) 2.5″ x 6.5″

Place your strips into the following layout.

And start piecing the strips into pairs, pressing the seams open.

Add a third strip to each pair and press.

Then piece the 6.5″ squares together.

And then add the 12.5″ piece to create a 12.5″ square.  If you are using a scant quarter inch, you might need to trim your block down a little to get make it 12.5″.

Make 35 more blocks.

Place your blocks into groups of 4, turning them so that the 4 small squares in the center line up.  Piece them into pairs and press the seams open.

And then piece the pairs together.

Arrange the squares into 3 rows with 3 squares in each row.  Piece the squares together into rows and then join the rows.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 72″ x 72″

I used the linen dot for the back of the quilt and the solid linen for the binding.  Not only does it have a wonderful texture, but it was wonderful to work with and gives the quilt a nice weight.  If you decide to use linen for the binding I would suggest cutting it slightly wider than normal (I cut mine 2 5/8″ instead of 2 1/2″).

Erica Jackman
{www.kitchentablequilting.com}

Tumbling Around Quilt



Hi there! Konda Luckau from Moose on the Porch Quilts here. I have loved playing around with honeycombs! I have a tumbling block quilt from my grandmother that I love. I have wanted to make one for a very long time. These Honeycombs finally make this quilt easy, and fun, to make! I have a new technique for piecing these blocks by machine – including being able to chain piece the blocks. I have a new book coming out this Spring full of projects using this new technique. Give it a try. You just may like it!

1 25th & Pine Honeycomb
1 1/4 yards White Bella Solid
2/3 yard Honky Tonk Red Plaid
1 1/4 yards Backing
Plastic Hexagon Template from Honeycomb


Cutting Instructions:
1. Take the plastic hexagon template from the honeycomb. Cut it as shown below.

2. Cut the white background fabric into 4 – 2 1/2″ strips, 4 – 4 1/2″ strips, and 3 – 2 5/8″ strips.
3. Using the diamond template, cut 28 diamonds from the 2 5/8″ strips.
4. Cut the red accent and binding fabric into 4 – 1 1/2″ strips and 4 – 2 1/2″ strips.
5. Take 25th & Pine Honeycomb and cut each hexagon into three diamonds as shown below.

Sewing Instructions:
6. Reorganize the diamonds into three stacks according to color.

7. Now for the magic! This is the trick to piecing y-seams on a sewing machine. The difference between my method and traditional machine piecing techniques is that my method can be chain pieced! Chain piecing means it is a lot faster and less thread waste. Refer to the picture below.
    a. Start the seam 1/4″ down from the corner.
    b. Sew 1/4″ into the diamond parallel to the top edge of the diamond.
    c. Sew down the right edge of the diamond with a 1/4″ seam.
    d. Stop 1/4″ from bottom edge.
    e. Sew to the right edge parallel to the bottom edge.
    f. Now it is ready for the next piece!

8. Seams will be pressed clockwise.

9. The bottom diamond is sewed on one seam at a time. Using the same method as above, matching diamond points, sew the right seam.

10. This is what it looks like opened up.

11. Fold hexagon in half matching points and sew the last seam as shown below.

12. Press the seams clockwise opening up the center of the seam allowances into a bitty hexagon.

13. With those three seams, one tumbling block is created! Repeat to make 38 tumbling blocks.

 14. Lay out the center of the quilt as shown below.

15. Using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the tumbling blocks into rows.

16. Again, using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the rows together.

17. Trim the left and right sides even. Trim the top and bottom 1/4″ outside of the points. The quilt should now measure about 26″ x 27″. Your measurements may differ slightly because of the many bias edges. Press carefully.

18. Use the 4 – 2 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the first border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of border strips.
19. Use the 4 – 1 1/2″ red accent strips to sew on the second border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
20. Use the 4 – 4 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the third border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
21. Quilt and use the 4 – 2 1/2″ binding strips to bind the quilt.

One fabulous quilt machine pieced tumbling block quilt that measures about 39″ x 40″.

Konda Luckau
{www.moosequilts.com/blog}

Winter Wonderland Peaks & Paddocks Quilt


Have you ever found a fabric line that made you squeal right there in the middle of the fabric shop? Have you ever found one that made you giggle with glee and rush to share it with your best quilty friends?  Winter Wonderland by Bunny Hill for Moda did that to me!  I am beyond thrilled to be able to share my quilt made from it with all of you!

I love, love, love the snowmen and the trucks.  What could be better than snowmen driving pick up trucks….perhaps a snugly quilt to make you laugh and keep you warm?!

detail of Winter Wonderland panel

Peaks & Paddocks is a simple quilt made from one, funky block.

I think I was thinking Snowball. I ended up with a center-less Shoo-flly.  Either way, the block screams, “You got it wrong!”  I wanted to find out what would happen if you made a bunch of blocks, all with the same irritating mistake in them, more on that later.


General Description of Quilt
16, 12” finished blocks in a 4 x 4 grid
2 borders
               1” finished inner border with tiny half square triangle (hst) setting squares
               4” finished outer border with large hst setting squares
As described the quilt finishes out at 59” x 59”


 
Fabric Requirements:
Blocks
What I used
           Red on White
1 ¾ yards
Selections from fat quarter bundle SKU#2870AB
           White on Red
½ yard
           Red on Red
¼ yard
           White on White
¼ yard
Inner Border + Binding
¾ yard
SKU#2875-15 red on red, twigs & berries
Outer Border
1 ¼ yards
SKU#2871-12 red on white, snowmen
Backing
3 ½ yards
SKU#2872-18 white on red, cars
Cutting Directions:
  • From Red on White
    •  80, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
      • Cut a total of 20, 4 ½” x 18” rectangles from fat quarters
      •  Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares for a total of 80 squares
    •  24, 5” x 5” squares for half square triangles (HSTS)
      • Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares
  • From White on Red
    • 24, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares
  • From Red on Red
    • 8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares
  • From White on White
    • 8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares
  • From Inner Border Fabric
    • 5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
    • 2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
    • 2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS
    • 6, 2 ½” x wof strips for binding
  •  From Outer Border Fabric
    • 5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
    • 2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
    • 2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS

Sewing Directions:
  •  Blocks
    • General description
      • Each 12” finished block (actually measures 12 ½” x 12 ½” to allow for ¼” seam allowances) is made from 9, 4 ½” x 4 ½” patches.
        • 5 patches are 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
        •  4 patches are pieced HSTS 

      • The block is based on the classic Shoo-fly design with two exceptions.
        1. There is not contrasting center to my block.
        2.  One of the corners is WRONG!  If you looked at the picture above and thought, “Oh, Cindy drew this one wrong.”  You are absolutely right; however, I did it on purpose.  Over the last 11 months I have been exploring what happens when you make a bunch of blocks wrong on purpose.  The results might surprise you.  They did me.  You can check them out under the “Oops” tab of my block of the month blog, Quilty Friends.
    • HSTS
      • Gather 
        • 24, 5″ x 5″ squares red on white fabric for traditional corners
        • 24, 5″ x 5″ squares white on red fabric for traditional corners
        • 8, 5″ x 5″ squares red on red fabric for WRONG corners
        • 8, 5″ x 5″ squares white on white fabric for WRONG corners
      • On the wrong side of all squares with white background draw a diagonal line.
      • Layer 1 red on white square with 1 white on red square, right sides together
      • Sew 1/4 from each side of drawn line…yes, sew twice.
      • Cut on drawn line.
      • Being careful not to warp triangles, gently iron triangles open…into squares.
      • Iron seam allowances open.
      • You now have 2, HSTS
      • Trim HSTS to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square
      • Repeat process with all red on white and white on red squares for a total of 48 HSTS for traditional corner patches
      • Repeat process with all red on red and white on white squares for a total of 16 HSTS for WRONG corner patches
    • BLOCKS
      • Gather
        • 48 traditional corner patch HSTS
        • 16 WRONG corner patch HSTS
        • 80, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ red on white squares
      • Making one block at a time, arrange 9 pieces in front of you to match drawing.
      • Be careful to get the red triangles oriented correctly.
      • Sew patches together to make rows
        • Row 1: traditional HST with RED down and to the right; red on white square; traditional HST with RED down and to the left.
        • Row 2: red on white square; red on white square; red on white square
        • Row 3: WRONG HST with Red down and to the left; red on white square; traditional HST with Red UP and to the left.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the red on white square in rows 1 and 3
      • Iron seam allowances away from the center in row 2
      • Sew rows together to make block
      • Trim block to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ square.
      • Repeat 15 times for a total of 16 blocks.
  • Quilt Top
    • Gather
      •  16 blocks
    • Arrange blocks in a 4 x 4 grid being careful to orient them so that the WRONG HST corners touch.  (see arrows in layout diagram above)
    • Sew sets of  4 block rows.
    • With the WRONG HST on the side closest to you, iron all seam allowances in the same direction.,
    • Sew rows together to make center of quilt.
      • NOTE: If you ironed the seam allowances as suggested, the allowances will snuggle together when you flip rows 2 and 4 to orient them correctly.
    • Iron seam allowances in the same direction.
    • Measure quilt and record below.
      • It should measure something like 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″. 
      • ________ wide
      • ________ long
  • Borders
    • Inner Border
      • Gather
        • 5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
        • 2, 2” x 2” squares inner border fabric
        • 2, 2” x 2” squares outer border fabric
      • Setting Squares
        • Using method described above make 4, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ HSTS from 2″ x 2″ squares
      • Edge pieces
        • Cut 1, 1 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
        • Sew 1, 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 1 1/2″ x wof strip.
        • Iron seam allowances open.
        • Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top.  They should be very close to 1 1/2″ x 48 1/2″ each.
      • Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the border.
      • Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces.  See diagram below.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
      • Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
      • Iron seam allowances toward borders.
      • Measure quilt and record below.
        • It should measure 50 1/2″ x 50 1/2″
        • _______wide
        • _______long
    • Outer Border
      • Gather
        • 5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
        • 2, 5” x 5” squares outer border fabric
        • 2, 5” x 5” squares inner border fabric 
      • Setting Squares
        • Using the method described above make 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ HSTS from 5″ x 5″ squares
      • Edge pieces
        • Cut 1, 4 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
        • Sew 1, 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 4 1/2″ x wof strip.
        • Iron seam allowances open.
        • Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top.  They should be very close to 4 1/2″ x 50 1/2″ each.
      • Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the border.
      • Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces.  See diagram below.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
      • Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
      • Iron seam allowances toward borders.
  • Layer and quilt as desired.
    • I quilted mine with white thread in Christmas Snow by Anne Bright
detail from Winter Wonderland panel
I hope you enjoy my pattern.  Please share a picture of your completed quilt with me!  I have a Tops to Treasures Flickr group just for that purpose!  Come join the group.
Stop by my blog, Tops to Treasures to win one of the wonderful Winter Wonderland panels!

Jelly Turnover Quilt


Hello! I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts.  It’s an honor for me to be with you today on Moda Bake Shop.  I love working with pre-cut fabrics.  When it comes to creating quilts, the possibilities are endless!  When designing this quilt, I thought it would be fun to use a jelly-roll for the sashing and candy squares for the gem-stone corners–after all, they are already pre-cut to the same width.  All that was left was to decide what type of blocks to use.  Since charm squares create half-square triangles so readily, this quilt came together like “Peanut-butter & Jelly”–hence its name, the Jelly Turnover Quilt.

To create this project you will need:
  • One packages of 5″ charm squares.  (I used Grant Park)  This quilt uses 40 print squares.
  • One packages of 5″ bella solids charm squares.  This quilt uses 40 white squares.
  • Three packages of 2 1/2″ candy squares for the gem stone corners on the sashing. (I also used Grant Park).  This quilt uses 99 squares.
  • One 2 1/2″ jelly roll for the sashing (I also used bella solid white).  This quilt uses 23 strips.
  • One yard navy blue fabric for the binding. 

    To create the half-square triangles (HSTs):

    • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each white Bella solid charm square.
    • Layer one white charm square on top of one print charm square with right sides facing.
    • Sew down both sides of the drawn line.

    • Cut down the drawn line and press seams towards the darker print fabric.
    • Square all HSTs to measure exactly 4 1/2 inches. 
    Use your favorite method of choice for this.  I like using a small square ruler.  Basically, you are trimming off the factory-created pinked/serrated edges.
    • Yield: 80 HSTs.

      To create the sashing:

      • Select twenty-three 2 1/2 inch jelly roll strips.
      • Cut the 2 1/2 inch white strips from the jelly roll into 4 1/2 inch sections.  Yield: 16 sashing rectangles measuring 2 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches per jelly roll length.
      Quick tip:  It is easy to cut several jelly-roll strips at once by laying 5 or 6 strips on your cutting board at a time.  Then, simply make the same rotary cuts that you would doing just one strip at a time.
      • This quilt requires 178 of these rectangles.

        To sew the vertical sashing units:

        • Select five 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch strips and five 2 1/2″ candy squares.  Sew these end to end to create a vertical sashing strip.  Press all seams towards the sashing to reduce bulk.  Create 18 of these strips.

        • Sew one horizontal sashing row for the bottom of the quilt.  It is comprised of nine 2 1/2 inch candy squares and eight 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch sashing strips.

        Note: This quilt is sewn in four quadrants–one quadrant at a time to ensure the proper placement of the HST unit to make the echo effect.  Each quadrant uses 20 HSTs.

        General directions for sewing all four quadrants:

        • Take twenty HSTs and  twenty 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangles.
        • Chain-sew the 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangle to the top of the HST.  Check the orientation of the HST you are working on as they differ in all four quadrants.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.

        Note, the HST rotates depending on which quadrant of the quilt you are working on.
        • Sew this units into four columns of 5 units down.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.
        • Add four vertical sashing strips to the side of each of the four 5-unit columns.  Refer to the quadrant diagram to check if it is the right or left-hand side.  If pressed correctly, these seams should nest.  Pin-match the intersections and sew with the HSTs on top to avoid blunting the points.  Also press these seams towards the sashing.  This will enable the quilt top to lie flat.
        Sew the columns together with HSTs on top so their points do not get blunted.
        • Sew these four columns together to create one quadrant.

          The upper left-hand quadrant HST orientation is: 

          The upper right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

          The lower left-hand quadrant HST orientation is

          The lower right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

          Use this assembly diagram to add the four quadrant panels together.

          • First, add the top left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand upper quadrant.
          • Second, add the bottom left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand lower quadrant.
          • Third, sew the top and bottom halves together.
          • Fourth and final, add the long horizontal sashing strip to the bottom to finish your quilt top.
          Assembly Diagram

          The finished quilt top diagram:


          The finished quilt top measures 50 inches by 62 inches.

          I quilted this using a lasso edge-to-edge style.

          Shannon Mower
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