Trifle Dish: Strawberries

To make LAYER 4, use layer cakes. There is no scrappy version of this block unless you mix low value prints to create the background.

For EACH Strawberry block, you will need:
Fabric 1/Background:

(2) 3½” x 4¾”
(2) 2¼” x 2¼”
(2) 2¼” x 1½”

Fabric 2/Strawberry:

(2) 5″ x 2¼” pieces
(1) 9½” x 7¾” piece

Marking pen
You will also need (5) 2½” x 9½” rectangles to go between blocks to complete the row.

Suggested precuts: layer cakes

1. From your background fabric, cut:(2) 3½” x 4¾” rectangles
(2) 2¼” x 2¼” squares
(2) 2¼” x 1½” rectangles

background fabric shown with marked lines

On the wrong sides of the 2¼” squares, draw diagonal lines with marking pen. On all four of the rectangle pieces, draw diagonal lines in opposite directions, i.e., one from the top left to bottom right, second one from the top right to the bottom left. Be sure to draw lines on the wrong side of the fabric.

2. From your berry fabric, cut off 2¼” from the top off the layer cake square. Sub cut into (2) 5″ x 2¼” pieces. Cut the bottom piece to 9½” wide.

3. Take your 2¼” background squares and 2¼” x 5″ strawberry pieces. With right sides together, lay one background square in the top left corner of the rectangle. Sew on the diagonal line. Trim off the seam allowance and press the corner.

On the right side of this piece, lay the 2¼” x 1½” background piece on top, lengthwise, with the diagonal going down the right side of the piece. Lay the 1/4 line on your ruler directly on the drawn line. Cut off the top.

Flip your white rectangle over and align with the newly cut line. Match the tip of the white triangle with the edge of the red. Sew a scant ¼” seam and press.

4. Repeat the process on the opposite corners of the second berry 5″ x 2¼” piece for the other side of the top of the strawberry.

5. With right sides together, sew both top pieces together and press.

6. Sew the bottom and the top piece together and press.

7. In the bottom left corner, lay one background 3½” x 4¾” piece on top lengthwise with the diagonal line going from the top left down to the bottom right. Line your 1/4″ ruler line on the diagonal drawn line. Cut off the seam allowance.

Flip over the white triangle. Align the new cut edges matching up the point of the triangle to the bottom of the red piece. Sew a scant 1/4″ seam and press.

Repeat this process on the right side of the strawberry. Press. Your strawberry should measure 9 1/2″ square.

8. Make 6 strawberry blocks. Join strawberry blocks with (5) 2½” x 9½” rectangles so the finished row measures 64″ x 9″.

1 row, measuring 64″ x 9″

Block design by Anjeanette Klinder of {AnjeanetteK}

Super-Sized Maple Leaf Throw Quilt

Nov11

Hi! I’m Anjeanette and I’m back with my most favorite recipe yet. If you follow my little blog, you have seen my Fall Leaf runner that I made last year using a charm pack. I get so many repins and tons of hits on my blog from that one tutorial. I thought it would be perfect to use in a larger size for a throw. I had been searching for a maple leaf shape that wasn’t an applique, and also looked fairly realistic. I couldn’t find anything I liked so I came up with my own, which I am sharing with you today. I taught a class on the runner recently, and came up with some tips for accurate sewing that you may want to check out on my blog too.

1 Layer Cake {Honeysweet by Fig Tree and Co.}
1 Charm Pack {Honeysweet by Fig Tree and Co.}
4 yards background fabric {Honeysweet Solid Biscuit 20199 38}
3 1/2 yards backing fabric {Autumn Rose Biscuit 20210 18}
3/4 yards binding fabric {Scrollwork Persimmon 20214 15}
Batting
Kite template
Tri-Recs Ruler if you have one

Each leaf will need one piece from the layer cake and one matching piece from the charm pack.

Make sure you are cutting carefully to get all the pieces you are going to need from the layer cake piece.

For one leaf you will need:
(6) 2 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ (from the layer cake)
(1) 2 1/2 X 2 1/2″ square (from the layer cake)
(1) 4 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ square (from the charm pack)

From Background fabric:
(1) 4 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ square
(6) 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ square
(2) diagonal pieces from backing fabric (as described below)

From backing cut (1) WOF x 5″. If you have a Tri-Recs ruler, you will use it here to make your diagonal cuts.

If you don’t have that ruler, cut to 5″ X 3 1/2″. from the top left, measure over 1/2″ and mark. Measure from the bottom right 1/2″ and mark. Match a ruler on those two points and cut.

***(If your backing fabric is printed or has a wrong and right side, make sure you are cutting two layers with wrong sides together because you are going to need a right side and left side of these cuts.)

You will need a pair of these diagonal cuts for each leaf.

To make one leaf:
Start with one long printed rectangle piece and one square background piece. We are going to do a corner flip here, aka snowball. Lay the two pieces right sides together with the small square matching along the top of the rectangle. Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the square. Trim the excess and press.

Three of your pieces like this will be angled from the right bottom to the top left and the other three will angle from the bottom left corner to the top right. You are going to need to press them in alternating directions. All three with the angle going to the right top need to go in one direction and all three with the angle going to the top left need to be pressed the opposite way. This will make them nestle nicely when sewing together in a “flying geese” shape.

Take your large patterned piece from the charm pack. Lay the kite shape template on top.

Cut off excess pieces. You should have a kite shape now.

Sew your diagonal pieces to each side with 1/4″ seam and press towards the background fabric.

Trim to square. I always put the point in the first cut of trimming because I want to make sure the tip does not get cut off. Make sure there is at least 1/4″ beyond the tip when you make the cut.

Then turn the block and trim to size.

Lay out your leaf. Sew together in rows. You will need to sew the bottom right pieces together and press before you can complete that row. Press row seams in opposite directions. Top row to the left, second row to the right, bottom row to the left.

Press your whole block.

Your block should be roughly 10 1/2″ square. Finish all your leaf blocks and get a rough idea how you are going to lay them out. Which way are the large points going to face etc. To the right side of each block add one 10 1/2″ x 3″ sashing piece and press.

Add a 13″ x 3″ sashing piece to the bottom and press. Finish all your blocks this way. They now should be roughly 13″ square.

Lay out your leaf blocks and your solid blocks the way you want the quilt to go. You could use a leaf in each block, or add in some 13″ X 13″ blocks as I did below. I used 9 blank blocks in my layout. Sew together in rows, pressing seams in opposite directions, i.e. top row to the right, second row to the left etc. Sew the rows together to your quilt top.

Using my instructions for adding borders, add a 3″ border to the top of the quilt, press. (You will likely need to sew two pieces together to make each border).

Add a 3″ border to the left side of the top. Press.

Make your quilt sandwich, quilt and bind.

A wonderful 63 1/2″ X 63 1/2″ leaf quilt that you can easily use from the end of summer all the way through Thanksgiving! Enjoy!

Anjeanette Klinder
{www.anjeanettek.com}

Bake Shop Basics: Quilt Borders

Sep19

Today our Bake Shop Basics series continues with Chef Anjeanette sharing the proper way to make and attach quilt borders.

Hi Moda Bake Shop! It is Anjeanette from by Anjeanette. I’m going to share one of my favorite parts of making a quilt today.

Do you ever finish your quilt and wonder why your sides are wavy and won’t lay flat? You may not have put your borders on correctly.

Once your quilt top is all pieced and you are ready to add borders, it is tempting to just slap a long length of fabric on the sides, cut off any excess and think you are good to go. You have spent a good amount of time making your quilt top, it is a good idea to take this extra step to finish it correctly. Who wants a wavy quilt?

When you are ready to add your borders, lay the quilt on a flat surface. Measure through the center, from the top to the bottom. Cut two side borders to this measurement length.

Taking one border strip at a time, fold lengthwise in half and then again into fourths. Place a pin at the fold points. You will end up with three pins in the border. Fold your quilt in half and then fourths, and pin the fold points. With right sides together, pin the ends of the border to the ends of the quilt. Match the center pins from the border and quilt and pin together. Match the quarter marks from the border and quilt and pin together. I then fill in between the pins with at least one more pin for each fourth.

There often is a little bit of excess fullness or fabric on either the border side or the quilt top. Whichever side seems more full, place towards the feed dogs when sewing. The feed dogs will help ease any fullness out.

You may need to gently hold the fabric taught in front of the presser foot as you sew to help ease any fullness out.

If it seems like there isn’t any fullness or excess fabric on either the border, or the quilt top, place the quilt top towards the feed dogs when sewing.

After both side borders are sewn on, press the seam allowance away from the quilt top, or towards the border.

Now repeat the whole process for the top and bottom borders.

Lay the quilt on a flat surface. Measure through the center of the quilt, from one side to the other side. Cut two borders to this measurement. Pin the quarter marks on the borders and quilt. Pin the borders to the quilt matching pins. Pin the ends of the border and the quilt together. Etc.

A few tips:

Using a walking foot for these long seams is helpful.
It is okay if you have to piece or sew two strips together to make the total length measurement. Just make sure you are cutting your border to the correct measurement before sewing on.

A perfectly flat quilt with borders.

3D Pinwheel Throw Quilt

Jul12

Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I’m Anjeanette and I am so happy to be back with you, sharing this adorable new quilt. Come visit me anytime at byAnjeanette.blogspot.com. When I saw this new line from Bonnie and Camille, I knew it had to be made into something fun and whimsical. Enter a 3 dimensional pinwheel to fit the bill.

1 Fat Eight Stack
3 3/4 yards Penny White 55065-19
1 yard Penny Lime 55065-13
4 yards Hop Navy 55062-17 (Backing)
1 yard Red 55064-11 (Binding)

Starch your fabric first. We are sewing on the bias and it will help to keep the fabric stabilized. We are also going to end up with a really dense seam in the pinwheel with all the layers of the fabric. Normally I use a scant seam, or skinnier than 1/4”. But for this throw, I suggest to sew with a larger than 1/4” seam. The seams in the pinwheel have many layers of fabric and I find that it is easier to get a nice flat pressed seam when there is more of a seam to press.

From the white, cut:
10 WOF (Width of Fabric) X 6″
Sub cut into 6″ squares total of (56) 6″ squares cut in half diagonally

14 WOF X 5″
Sub cut into 5″ squares total of (112) 5″ squares

From the green, cut:
5 WOF X 6.5″
Sub cut into 6.5″ squares total of (28) 6.5″ squares

From the fat eight stack you will need to cut (28) 9″ squares.

There are two blocks for this throw, a square in a square, and a dimensional pinwheel.

To make the square in a square block you will need four white triangles and one green square.

Fold your green square in half lengthwise and then again in half width wise. Press to get your center markings. Alternately, you could pin the center of each side if you prefer. Fold your triangles in half and press.

Matching your pressed lines, match two side triangles to the sides of the square and pin in place.

Sew side seams and press towards the white.

Flip over and trim off the excess corner points.

Layer the last two triangles, sew and press towards the white again.

Trim your square to 9 1/2” There shouldn’t be much to trim off.

Make 28 of these blocks.

To make the dimensional pinwheel block:

Start with two contrasting 9 X 9” squares cut from your fat eight stack. Layer together, right sides together. Draw diagonal lines from corner to corner in an X and then from top to bottom and side to side like a +. Sew 1/4” on both sides of the line from the X. With your rotary cutter, cut directly on the lines of the + from top to bottom and then from side to side. Then cut along the diagonal lines.

You just made 8 HST or Half Square Triangles.

Open up your squares and then fold in half with wrong sides facing each other. Topstitch along the folded edge with about 1/8” topstitch. This little step is going to help keep the shape of the pinwheels once you wash your quilt. Trim off the dog ears or the overhanging corners.

To make your pinwheel block, take four white 5” squares and two sets of triangles.

Layer your triangles on top and in the corner of each white square. The right side of the white squares should be facing up/the triangles. Pin the right side. Take the bottom of the triangle and fold it over to the right lower corner. Topstitch with 1/8” seam along the right side and the bottom of the triangle.

Press. I found that I wanted my pinwheel pressed quite flat because it helped when I got to the part with all the layers of fabric.

Lay out your four squares to make the shape of a pinwheel.

Sew the top two pieces together (remember we are using a seam that is just a bit bigger than a regular 1/4” seam here.) Press the seam open. It is going to be a chunky/thick seam.

Sew the bottom two squares the same way and press well.

Layer your top and bottom together, right sides facing. I placed a pin in the center of the top seam and matched it with the bottom seam to hold it in place. Because of the bulk of the fabric, clips like the one you would use to bind, are very helpful to hold the layers together.

Sew and press open.

Make 28 of these blocks.

Alternate your square in a square blocks with pinwheel blocks. Sew into rows. Sew rows into your top.

Quilt and bind.

*Because of the dimension of the pinwheels, when you are quilting you may find it easier to pin each pinwheel flap back.

My boys think this is the perfect quilt to lay on the grass and read. I think it is the perfect quilt for a picnic.

Either way, I think the dimension of the pinwheel makes for a fun quilt.

If you decide to make one too, please remember to share it with me. I’d love to see it!

I couldn’t resist these piggies next to the dimensional pinwheel. Makes me so happy.

A roughly 63” X 72” Epic Summer 3 Dimensional Pinwheel Throw

Anjeanette Klinder
{byAnjeanette.blogspot.com}

Linked Octagons Quilt

Apr15

Hi everyone! My name is Anjeanette and I blog at byAnjeanette.blogspot.com. I am delighted to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you. I have been following Moda Bake Shop since its first recipe, and have been hooked on pre-cuts ever since. I designed a fun quilt with columns of linked Octagons. The background is a secondary pattern with the same linked octagons in columns. It is super easy to whip up with your favorite Layer Cake and some yardage. How lucky for me that I got to play with Fig Tree Quilts new Avalon line. This quilt would look awesome in a more bold line too.

1 layer cake (Avalon by Fig Tree Quilts)

3 yards Background/sashing ( Avalon Wicker Grey)

3 5/8 yards Backing fabric (Avalon Nantucket)

3/4 yards Binding (Avalon Candy Apple Red)

Batting for finished size of 62″ X 62″

* It is important to have a consistent 1/4″ seam allowance.
1. From the Layer Cake select 25 squares and cut to 9.5″ X 9.5″ squares

2. I took out all my blue blocks from the Avalon Layer Cake and cut into (20) 3.5″ X 3.5″ squares. I had to use the scraps to piece a few of these together. I just chose the fabric with the smallest scale so it wasn’t too noticeable.

3. From the background fabric cut:

(8) WOF strips @ 3.5″ for the outside border

also cut

(13) WOF strips @ 3.5″ subcut into:
         (16)    12.5″ X 3.5″ rectangles
         (140) 3.5″ X 3.5″ squares
          (4)     9.5″ X 3.5″ rectangles

4. Take (100) of the background 3 1/2″ squares and press diagonally in half (a). Open them up and pin to the corner of your 9 1/2″ square (b). With right sides together, sew directly on the pressed line. Trim to 1/4″ (c) and press open (d). Sew all four corners this way creating your snowball block.

5. Make 25 Snowball blocks.

6. For the set in sashing, sew together in a strip: (1) background 3.5″ square, (1) blue 3.5″ square and (1) background 3.5″ square. Press your seams towards the blue.

7. Pin the set in sashing piece to the snowball block and sew.

8. Press the seam open. Make (20) of these blocks.

9. Sew the 12.5″ X 3.5″ rectangle to your snowball + set in sashing block. Make (16) of these blocks.

10. For the bottom row blocks, sew (1) snowball block + (1) 9.5″ X 3.5″ rectangle together. Make (4) of these blocks.

11. Layout your blocks to your liking.

*Notice your first four rows will have (4) complete blocks and end with (1) snowball + set in sashed block. Your bottom row will have (4) snowball + sashing blocks and (1) lonely snowball block. I have included a line drawing of the layout.

12. Carefully match seams and sew blocks into rows. Carefully matching seams again, sew rows together.

13. Sew two border strips (WOF X 3.5″) together. Do this for all four sides. Sew to your quilt top and bottom. Press and trim to the edge of the quilt. Sew side border on. Press and trim to the edge of quilt.

14. Cut strips of 2 1/2″ X WOF and piece together for binding.

15. Make a quilt sandwich, baste, quilt, and bind using your favorite method.

I quilted the background Linked Octagons with organic (not perfect) echos of the linked Octagons to reinforce the shape and then did a big meander in the layer cake linked Octagons. I think this red polka dot binding and the blue floral backing combination is my favorite ever. This quilt makes me wish the winter would hurry and turn into spring so I can enjoy a picnic on it.