Domestic Gifts Throw Quilt

Hi again, it’s Molly Culley with another quick and easy throw quilt.  When I saw the Domestic Bliss line, it was love at first sight.  Pinks, aquas, plums…what’s not to like?  Another reason I was smitten with this line is how it looks so vintage, yet modern.  The quilt design is clean and simple, and really lets the fabrics shine, with a hint of texture and embellishment with the ruffled solids. 

One Layer Cake
One Jelly Roll
4 yards backing fabric

 
1.  Choose 36 layer cake squares for the front of your quilt, and set aside the remaining 6 for the pieced back.  Lay them out in a pleasing arrangement.

2.  Unroll your jelly roll and set aside 6 strips for your binding.  Next, we will need 5 strips for the ruffled/pleated solids, so go ahead and unroll those.  Take the first one, and fold it in half lengthwise so the selvedges are touching.  Cut the strip on the fold so you have 2- 2.5″x21″ pieces.  Now, cut each strip in half width-wise so you now have 4- 1.25″ by 21″ strips.  Do the same to the remaining 4 jelly roll strips. You will need 18 ruffle strips that measure 1.25″ by 21″.

3.  Using a coordinating thread color, stitch a 1/4″ seam on either side of each solid strip.  This will slow any fraying during daily use and laundry days.

4.  Your next step is to choose the squares you want your ruffles on.  I chose three alternating squares from each row, and also changed the direction of the ruffles for each row.

5.  Using the 18 solid strips, either ruffle or pleat them using your favorite method.  I chose to fold the strip as I sewed it onto the layer cake square to make pleats.  The photo above shows an example of my pleating method.  I just used my fingers to tuck the fabric under the presser foot, but you could also use a ruffler foot or a gathering stitch to make traditional ruffles.  I also didn’t put my ruffle exactly in the middle of the square each time…I didn’t want each block to be the same.

6.  Once the ruffles/pleats are sewn onto your layer cake squares, sew over the 1/4″ stitch lines on the edges of the solids so they lay nicer on your quilt once it’s washed.  I learned this the hard way…it’s much easier to do this with the individual squares, rather than wrestling the whole quilt into the machine again.

7.  Join your squares into rows, then sew the rows together into a 6×6 block layout.

8.  For your pieced back, sew together the 6 layer cake squares set aside earlier, and piece them into your backing fabric.

9.  Baste, quilt and bind.  I quilted mine in an all-over meander with a variegated thread.  Use the 6 solid jelly roll strips you set aside earlier to make your binding.  Enjoy your gorgeous new quilt!

A throw quilt that measures 57″ square.

I hope you enjoyed my project! If you’d like to see what I’m sewing up lately, stop by my Instagram feed (link below).

Molly Culley
{instagram.com/mollyculley/}

Simply Charming Tablecloth

Hello All! My name is Angela and I blog over at Cuttopieces.blogspot.com.   I’m back with another tutorial for you, this time using the lovely Domestic Bliss line by Liz Scott.  I fell in love with these fabrics as soon as I saw them and wanted to make something quick and “easy” with all of the colors.

Sometimes you love every single fabric in a line and just want to USE them.  Right now!  Well this tablecloth pattern will let you do that and gives you a very functional item along with the joy of diving into a collection.  It uses just 2 charm packs.  So there is enough to have some fun but not so much that it gets overwhelming.

This tablecloth is perfect for special occasions like birthdays or holidays (with the right fabrics!) but is also simple enough for every day use.  There are special details like a mitered edge border and a single piece backing.

It’s “Simply Charming”.

(2) Charm Packs of Domestic Bliss by Liz Scott
  *update – not on PDF instructions* – you need 88 charms total…some lines will have enough in two charm packs.  If you don’t have enough, I would take some of the extra Bella solid and cut it into charm squares and use them as corner squares on the table cloth.
1 1/4 yard of Bella Solid Marine
2 yards of 108″ Grey Dottie Backing

Cut the Bella solid into a 40 1/2″ square piece of fabric.

Arrange your charms around the Solid center in rows.
You will need
     (2) 9 piece strips
     (4) 11 piece strips
     (2) 13 piece strips

Sew the charms into rows and attach the rows to the solid center as shown below.

First attach each 9 piece strip to opposite sides of the solid center.
Next attach an 11 piece strip to the two remaining opposite sides of the solid center to create a square piece again.

Then attach an 11 piece strip to opposite sides of the new square piece.

Finally, attach a 13 piece strip to the remaining two opposite sides to once again square up the piece.

Your piece should now be 58″ square.

Cut the Dottie Backing into a 67″ square piece.
We will be creating a deep mitered hem around the perimeter of the tablecloth.

On all four sides of the backing fabric, press the ends wrong sides together with a 1/2″ fold.

Follow this by pressing all four sides in with a 2″ fold.

At each corner, unfold the fabric back to reveal the wrong side of the fabric.  Fold each corner in at a 45 degree diagonal, wrong sides together.  You should be able to match up your pressed creases.

   Trim the folded triangle to a 1/2″.

Refold the fabric back along the original pressed edges to reveal a perfect mitered corner.

Lay the backing fabric out with the wrong side up.  Place the tablecloth pieced top on top of the backing, centering it.  Keep each fabric as smooth and flat as possible.

Fold the hem along the edge of the pieced top and pin in place around the entire tablecloth.  Top stitch around the entire edge of the hem, including the mitered edges.

And ta-da!  You are done!  Easy peasy!

One Simply Charming Tablecloth!

So pull out those charm packs…feel free to mix and match!  And whip up a fabulous tablecloth for that special occasion.  You could make some coordinating napkins too. 😉  Oh and how cute would a novelty tablecloth be for a child’s birthday party?!  Endless possibilities… 

If you do use the tutorial to make a tablecloth I would love to see it!  So please share it in my flickr group, Cut To Pieces and of course the Moda BakeShop Group as well.  Enjoy!

Angela Pingel

 {cuttopieces.blogspot.com} 

Cathedral Window Pincushion

An incredibly easy and beautiful pincushion. Makes a fast gift for the sewer in your life or for yourself since one can never have too many pincushions. If you thought cathedral windows were hard, I can promise that your mind will be changed after making this simple cushion.

one 10.5 inch square of Moda Bella solids white
nine 5 in squares of fabric or charms like Domestic Bliss
one button
thread
craft/button thread
stuffable batting

I used the very bright and colorful Domestic Bliss for a spring pin cushion.

Cut your solid square (or a print) 10.5 inches

Cut your template, I used a folder I found in the filing drawer, to 9 inches

Cathedral windows are mostly folding and ironing. Fold the corner over the edge of the template and iron into place. Then repeat on the other three sides.

Next fold the edges down and press. Repeat on the other three sides.

When the sides are pressed it will look like this:

Take the template out at this point:

Fold your square in half and press:

This is what it looks like if you fold one side back:

Fold the opposite way and press again. When you open your square it will look like this:

Time for more folding. Fold the outer corners in and press:

It will look like this when all four have been pressed:

Now do it all again. Fold each of the corners in and press:

Done with the folding/ ironing part!!!!

Trim one of your 5 in squares to 4.25 inches and place in the center of the open square.

Close the flaps.

Stitch the center to secure the flaps closed. This will not show so it does not have to be pretty!

Take another of your 5 in squares and place in one of the triangles and trim.

Repeat with the rest of the charms.

Fold the edge of the flap over the triangle of fabric and pin into place.

Sew to secure the flap. I used the inside of my 1/4in foot as a guide.

Repeat until you have all the flaps sewn.

Put the top aside and grab your last four charms,

Right sides facing sew them together on one side.

Repeat so you have two sets.

 Press open.

Placing right sides together mark a 2in opening with two pins.

Using a 1/2 in seam  sew up to the pin and do a little back and forth to secure where the opening will be.

Press the seam open.

This is the opening.

Take the cushion top and place it right sides facing and centered on the opening of the cushion back.

Using  1/4 in seam, sew around all four sides.

Trim the excess fabric.

Turn the cushion right side out.

Stuff and stuff some more!

Stitch the back closed.

 The best part…choose a button, attach it and you are DONE!!!!! 

One really cute and adorable 3.5in square pincushion to keep or share!!!!

Kim Niedzwiecki
{gogokim.blogspot.com}

Valentine’s Bliss Bunting

This no-sew project is fun to make as a quick and festive decoration. Liz Scott’s Domestic Bliss collection was perfect for some happy hearts. And because the hearts are not permanently attached to the ribbon, you can adjust their spacing to make the bunting exactly the length you need!

1 charm pack
1 yard fusible web cut into 21, 5” squares (for bunting we like Steam-a-Steam 2)
4-7 yards ribbon, depending on how long you’d like your bunting to be (we used 3/8” grosgrain ribbon)
heart template, traced from the pattern PDF (included in the Printer Friendly Version) onto template plastic

1. Divide charm squares into 21 pairs. We kept similar colors together so the darker colors wouldn’t show through the lighter sides.

2. Fuse the pairs together: this fusible has paper on both sides, and will conveniently stick where we place it. Peel off the first layer…

Lay the fusible side down onto the wrong side of one square and press according to the instructions that come with your fusible for heat setting and length of time. Be sure the sticky part doesn’t peel away from the fabric.

TIP: Keep the fusible facing down so it doesn’t get on your iron. Use a pressing cloth or appliqué pressing sheet underneath everything to keep sticky stuff from getting on your ironing board.

Peel the other side of the paper off…

Align the first square, fusible side down, onto the wrong side of its mate, and fuse.

TIP: We found it easiest to do this assembly line style, ironing the fusible to one square from each pair first, and then pressing them all on to the second squares. This way they have a chance to cool down before you have to handle them again. Just don’t get your pairs mixed up!

Edit: I thought I’d mention a bit about our experience with the fusible and it’s durability. We’ve made buntings with Steam a Seam and hung them outside for months in the wind and elements without anything coming apart. That stuff is awesome.

3. Trace the heart and slits onto each fused square.

For the slit, you can just cut into the template plastic and stick your tracing pencil through it to make the mark.

Cut out the heart…

…and cut the slits with a seam ripper, like you would a button hole. Poke the point through all layers, and gently cut to the end of the line. That’s right, the curve inside your seam ripper is a little blade! We only traced one slit, folded the heart in half, and cut the 2 slits at once. If you are using wider than 3/8″ ribbon, just cut your slits the exact width of your ribbon.

4. Weave the ribbon through the hearts.

Alternate the direction of the ribbon on each heart (first woven in from the back, then woven in from the front, and so forth) so it will look the same from either side of the bunting.

Slide the hearts along the ribbon to get them where you want them. Space the hearts close together…

…or farther apart for a different look and a longer bunting.

1 heart-warming bunting of adjustable size, for all sorts of spaces!

Try some variations, like cutting the hearts out with a wavy blade on your rotary cutter, or dividing the hearts into 2 separate buntings for both sides of the room. Post photos of your own version in our Flickr pool!

We hope you enjoy this little project, our very first Moda Bake Shop recipe! We’ve got a few Domestic Bliss Charm Packs available, and don’t forget to check out our blog for other fun stuff.

Jo, Kathy, and Jess
{Suppose}

Sugar Garden Throw Quilt

Hi everyone, I’m Molly Culley from Stitch-n-Thyme Designs with my second Moda Bake Shop tutorial!  This is a really fun and quick quilt to piece.  The plot on our base’s community garden inspired me.  There is order but there are always some stragglers that get into the paths, represented here in the botanical raw-edge applique.  If you make one of these quilts, I’d love to see it!

Sugar Pop Layer Cake

Bella Snow Jelly Roll
2 yards backing
3/4 yard binding

1.  Separate your layer cake: You will need 25 squares for the top, 12 for the backing, and 3 or 4 for applique.  Choose applique squares that have a large floral or botanical accent.  Set aside backing and applique squares.

2.  Cut your 25 squares for the top into quarters; arrange them into pleasing groups of four.

3.  Stitch your squares together into four-patches; press.  Arrange four-patches into a 5×5 layout.

4.  Unwrap your jelly roll and cut 20 pieces that measure 9.5 x 2.5 inches.

5.  Sew one sashing piece onto one side of four of the four-patch units in each row.  Sew into rows; repeat for each row of your quilt.  Press.

It’s slightly hard to see, but the sashing is sewn between each block.  Next we’ll work on the long sashing.

6.  Take out four jelly roll strips and set aside.  Take out another jelly roll strip, and cut 4-10″ sections off.  Now join each small section to one jelly roll strip.  We want to align these long jelly roll strips between each row so the seam on the jelly roll lands between or really close to a four patch.  Alternate the seams on each row so you have a seam on the left, on the right, left, then right.  Sew long strips between your four-patch rows as sashing. Press your quilt top.

7.  Using your squares set aside for applique, cut out 8 pieces that are large enough to cover the jelly roll seams.  

8.  Four pieces will be used for covering seams; the other four are for balancing out the quilt top so there are two motifs per long strip.

 8.  Stitch around each shape about 1/4″ from the raw edge.  Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end so your stitches don’t come unraveled.

9.  Quilt Back:  Take the 12 reserved squares and piece them together into two rows of six.  Press and stitch together.  Cut your backing yardage in half, then piece to opposite sides of the layer cake squares.

10.  Layer your quilt top, batting, and backing.  Quilt, bind and enjoy! 

I am proud to say I had this quilt long-arm quilted by Melanie Simpson and company at Front Porch Quilt Shoppe in Ozark, Alabama, which happens to be my local quilt shop.  Her shop is wonderful, and full of Moda goodness!

A gorgeous throw quilt, just right for a picnic at the park or your local community garden!

Molly Culley
{Stitch-N-Thyme}

Quilter’s Ironing Pad

                                        

Hello, I hope that you enjoy this tutorial on how to make a quilter’s ironing pad.  My inspiration for this project came after getting annoyed with having to drag out my big ironing board every time I just needed to iron a few seams.  This project is great for ironing quilting projects, it stores easily, and it is very portable.  Hopefully this project will save you some time and ironing board frustration.  It would make a great gift too!

16 Charm Squares (I used Sugar Pop by Liz Scott)
1/8 Yard of Coordinating Fabric (for binding)
1/2 Yard of Thermal Fabric (ironing board fabric)
1/2 Yard of batting (or insulated batting–preferably heat resistant)

   

Step One:  Layout out your 16 charm squares in a 4 by 4 square.  Maintaining the order of your pattern, take the two charm squares of the first row and align them together with right sides facing each other.  Align the other two charm squares in the same fashion and repeat for the remaining three rows.  Sew each set of two charm squares on one side using a 1/4 seam allowance (all seams will be 1/4 inch throughout).  You should now have 8 sets of two charm squares sewn together.

Step Two:  Press open seams.

Step Three:  With right sides together, sew one set of two charm squares to another set of two charm squares to make a row of four charm squares.

Step Four:  Press open seams.  With right sides together sew one set of four charm squares to another set of four charm squares.

Step Five:  Press open seams and then with right sides together, sew one set of eight charm squares to the other set of eight charm squares to complete your back of the ironing pad.  Press open seams.

Step Six:  Cut a piece of thermal fabric to match the size of the back you just made.

Step Seven: Cut a piece of the batting to match the back as well.

Step Eight:  With the wrong side of the back facing up, place the batting on top of the back.  Be careful to line up the edges.  Then place the thermal fabric on top, right side facing up, and line up all edges then pin.

 Step Nine:  Sew the entire perimeter of the new stack with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Step Ten:  Add a binding using your favorite method or try my binding tutorial.

Presto!!! You are done!!!  Enjoy your new ironing pad and the relief from not having to drag out the old ironing board just to iron a seam or two.

One ironing pad to either use for your own quilting needs or to give to a fellow quilter.

Thanks for looking!  

Kathy Davis

{Cosmo Quilts}

Fat Quarter Pillowcase Dress

This is Aubrey of Maubys here again with a super simple and fast fat quarter tutorial.

Modeled after the infamous “pillowcase” dress style, this fast little dress takes only 2 fat quarters and the added bonus of not needing a hem!  

2 Fat Quarters (try to use ones with selvages if you can)

2, 1 Yard cuts of 5/8″ wide ribbon that matches the fat quarters

Matching Thread

Buttons
Appliqué
Rick Rack

1. Lay the two fat quarters on top of each other with right sides up.

The shorter edge of each fat quarter (18″) with the selvage will be the bottom and the opposite shorter edge will be the top.

Measure 3″ in along the top/shorter side and 6″ down on the longer side. Cut on a diagonal. Repeat with the opposite side. These will be the arm holes.

2. Place cut fat quarters on top of each other, right sides together. Line up all edges. Using a straight stitch, serger, or an overcast stitch sew the two pieces together along the sides from the bottom of the arm holes to the bottom of the fat quarters with a 5/8″ seam allowance.

3. Finish the sleeves with a 1/4″ double fold hem and a 1/8″ seam allowance.

How to do a double fold hem: Starting at the top of one of the arm holes fold fabric over 1/4″ so that the raw edge is on the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold over again another 1/4″ in the same direction closing the raw edge inside the hem.

4. Fold over the top of each side 1/4″ so that the raw edge is on the wrong side of the fabric. Sew with 1/8″ seam allowance. This is the neckline.

5. Turn top over 1″ and hem again with 1/8″ seam allowance only along the bottom of the neckline hem.

6. String ribbon through each 1″ top hem.  

7. Match up the ends of the ribbon and scrunch the fabric into the center of the ribbon. Un-scrunch the fabric a little bit, just enough to give the neckline a scrunchy, gathered look.

To keep dress neckline from being a choking hazard, sew the ends of the neckline hem closed. Securing the ribbon in between the ends of the neckline, keeping it in place.

8. I left the selvages as the hem because they look so great! If you don’t have selvages on your fat quarters, or don’t like the look of them, hem the bottom of the skirt with a 1/4″ – 1/2″ double fold hem.

And there you have it!  A very simple dress for a toddler that can become a shirt later on.  

Wear it in the winter with stockings or leggings and a long sleeved shirt. Or,

Wear it by itself in the summer as a sun dress!  Easy, cute and versatile! 

This dress was made with Fat Quarters from the Make Life Collection by Sweetwater

1 Pillowcase dress

Aubrey Schwartz
{maubys.net}

Sugar Baby Quilt

Finished Size: 32″ X 42″

Hello again!!  It’s Jamie from SunFlower Seeds with my new Moda Bake Shop project! It’s called “Sugar Baby” and is a quilt made from a Jelly Roll!  I hope you like it and if you make one please add it to my Flickr Group!!  And as always be sure to check out my blog {jamiemueller.blogspot.com} and my mom’s blog {sunflower-quilts.blogspot.com} for a giveaway!!

1 Jelly Roll (JR)
1 yd sashing/border fabric
1 yd backing fabric
½ yd binding fabric OR left over JR strips (you’ll have plenty)

 ¼” seam allowance for entire quilt.

Blocks:

1. Choose 12 strips from JR.

2. Take 6 strips and cut each strip as follows:

Two- 10 ½” pieces
Two-2 ½” pieces
One- 6 ½” pieces

*You will have fabric leftover from each of the 6 strips (you do not need these pieces – set them aside).

3. Take the remaining 6 strips and cut each strip as follows:

Two- 4 ½” pieces
Two- 6 ½” pieces

*You will have fabric leftover from each of the 6 strips (you do not need these pieces – set them aside).

4. What I like to do next is layout all 6 blocks as randomly as possible- this helps keep everything together while I’m sewing all the blocks together. Layout blocks with two-10 ½” pieces that are the same fabric, two- 4 ½” pieces of the same fabric, two 2 ½” pieces of the same fabric, two- 6 ½” pieces of the same fabric and one- 6 ½” piece of another fabric. See photo:

5. Sew one 2½” piece and one 4 ½” piece together and press; repeat with the other 2 ½” and 4 ½” pieces.

6. Sew the one different 6 ½” strip in the middle of both 2 ½”/4 ½” pieces, making sure to alternate the two 2 ½”/4 ½” pieces and press.

7. Take the two 6 ½” pieces and sew one on both sides of 2 ½”/4 ½” pieces and press.

8. Sew one 10 ½” piece on top and one 10 ½” piece on the bottom of the block. Press.

9. Repeat steps 4-8 until you have 6 blocks total. Trim up your blocks (they should be around 10 ½” square).

Sashing:

1. Take your sashing/border fabric and cut one strip 2 ½” X WOF (width of fabric) OR you can use a JR strip of the same fabric if you still have it.

2. Cut the 2 ½” strip into four- 10 ½” pieces.

3. Sewing along the 10 ½” side of your blocks, sew one 2 ½” X 10 ½” piece on the bottom of four blocks. Press.

4. Sew two rows of thee blocks each. Each row will be approximately 34” X 10 ½”. Press.

5. Cut one- 4 ½” X WOF strip from sashing fabric for middle sashing. Trim to length of rows. Your piece should be approximately 34”. You should have a 4 ½” X 34” piece for middle sashing.

6. Sew the 4 ½” X 34” strip between the two rows. Press.

Border:

1. Take the border fabric (the fabric left over from sashing) and cut four- 4 ½” X WOF strips.

2. Cut the four strips as follows:

Two- 4 ½” x 24”
Two- 4 ½” x 42”

3. Sew one- 4 ½” x 24” strip on top of your quilt top (the 24” side) and press. Repeat on bottom of quilt top and press.

4. Sew one- 4 ½” X 42” strip on each side of your quilt top and press.

Your quilt top is now finished!

Quilt as desired.

Binding:

1. From binding fabric cut 4- 2 ½” strips OR just use four Jelly Roll strips.

2. Sew all these strips together (short ends) to make 1 continuous strip. Fold binding in half wrong sides together and press. Attach binding to right side of quilt (raw edges even) and machine stitch all the way around. Turn binding to back and hand stitch down. See finished quilt photo.

Finished Size: 32″ X 42″

1 Jelly Roll can make up to three sets of blocks.  Just get extra sashing/border fabric to make more quilts!
 

Jamie Mueller

{jamiemueller.blogspot.com}

{sunflower-quilts.blogspot.com}

Sugar Pop N Change Quilt

Hello fellow sewing enthusiasts!! It’s me, Melissa. I am so excited to be able to bring you another quilt tutorial here at the Moda Bake Shop. I absolutely fell in love with the Sugar Pop line by Liz Scott the second I saw it and was so happy to get to work with these amazing fabrics!

Do you love this quilt and the fabric as much as I do? Then click on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has created a Sugar Pop N Change Quilt Kit just for you!

As always, if you have any questions you can reach me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com. Oh, and feel free to stop by my little sewing stomping grounds www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com to see what I am up to. I love visitors. Happy Quilting to you all!

Okay, so I have to apologize. I was so excited to work with these fabrics that I opened up all my pre-cuts and started playing with them before taking a picture of them. Silly me 🙂

1 Sugar Pop Jelly Roll

1 Sugar Pop Charm Pack

1 Yard of Bella Solids White

1 1/4 Yard of Coordinating Print for Pieced Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

Grab your jelly roll and open it up. Separate your jelly roll into two piles.  One pile with 22 strips and one pile with 18 prints. Try to evenly distribute the colors and prints. And don’t feel like you have to follow my print piles, do what pleases your eye 🙂

First we will work with our pile of 18 prints. These pieces are for your binding so when you have cut them, go ahead and set them aside for a while. Lay your first jelly strip roll out of your mat. Line your ruler up so that the end of the jelly roll is on the 15″ line of your ruler. Cut so you have a 15″ strip. Repeat this process with the remaining 17 strips. (You could stack them up, but honestly I found it faster to just hurry and whack them verses taking the time to try and line up the strips perfectly.) Set the leftover portion of the jelly roll strips aside, we will be cutting them up in a minute (or 2 or 3 depending on how fast you cut.)

Now we will turn to our pile of 22 jelly roll strips. Lay several strips at a time out on your mat lining the edge along the 0 edge of your mat. Then line your ruler up with the 25″ strip on your mat. Go ahead and cut. This gives you a 25″ strip and some leftover. Repeat this process with all 22 of your strips. Once again, set the leftover aside. This time it probably will only be a minute before you cut them up 🙂

Grab your leftover jelly roll pieces. You are going to be cutting them into 5″ long pieces. You cut these the same way you did your 15″ piece. Line your ruler up so that the end of the jelly roll is on the 5″ line of your ruler and cut, then slide your ruler down another 5″ and cut, and so forth. You should be able to get 3 pieces or “coins” out of each strip in your 22 pile (the pile that you cut 25″ off before) and 5 pieces or “coins” out of each strip in your 18 pile (the pile that you cut 15″ off before) You’ll have a little scrap off of each strip. Yippee, everyone loves scraps!!

Grab your charm pack. You are going to be using 30 charms now and setting 12 aside with your 25″ long jelly roll strips to be used for the pieced back. Hint – To get an even distribution of prints on the front of your quilt, get the 22 charms that you were only able to cut 3 coins out of your leftover jelly roll first. Then choose your next 8 favorites. Now take your 30 chosen charms and cut them in half .

Grab your “coins” from your jelly roll and your “coins” from your charm pack and you have a beautiful pile of “change” ready to be sewn together.

Now onto your sashings 🙂

Grab your yard of white solid and lay it out on your mat, aligning the fold line with the 0 horizontal line on your mat. Align your ruler along the last line of your mat and trim a nice straight edge. Measure in 1 3/4″. I like to normally just use my mat for this, but if the 3/4″ throws you, you can always double check your measurement by placing another ruler along the side of your long ruler and ensuring that the edge of your fabric is lined up with the 1 3/4″ mark on your second ruler. Go ahead and cut. Now without moving your fabric, slide your ruler over another 1 3/4″ (use your second ruler to double check if necessary) and cut.  Repeat this process until you have 12 strips.

Lets cut up the 12 strips. Start by aligning your ruler along the horizontal mat line at 21 1/2 inches (just below where the selvage edge ends). If you don’t have a 21 1/2″ line on your mat, line your 1/2 mark on your ruler with the 21″ line on your mat. This should make your ruler edge now at 21 1/2″. Trim off the selvage edge.

We need 16 1/2″ strips, so move your ruler down to the horizontal 5″ line on your mat. Align your mat along the horizontal 5″ line and cut. Go ahead and set 6 of those little 10″ strips aside (the ones under the ruler 🙂 . The rest can go into your scrap pile 🙂

Now grab the last of your yard of white. Lay it out on the mat just as before and cut another 6 strips measuring 1 3/4″ wide (See previous instructions if confused on how).

These strips will be used for your center strips between rows and your borders. However, they need to be a little longer. Remember those six 10″ long pieces I said to set aside? Grab them. Lay a 10″ piece on top of your WOF strip. Sew a 1/4 seam along the edge. Keep doing this with all 6 of your strips. Press. Now you should have six 54″ x 1 3/4″ strips. And cutting is done and onto more sewing 🙂

STEP 2 – MAKING CHANGE ROWS

Making the change rows is a super fun and easy process. We’ll start by taking our single coins and making them into sets of 2. Grab 2 coins. I like to make sure I don’t have similar prints here. Also, I like to align the two cut edges and sew my seam along that edge. It helps to fix cutting boo-boo’s 🙂

So with that said, lay your first coin on top of your second coin, right sides together. You are going to match up your pinked edges. If this causes your cut edges to be slightly off no worries, that is why we are sewing them first. I don’t pin these. They are small enough to just handle while sewing but if that makes you nervous, feel free to pin away 🙂

Now go ahead and sew 1/4″ seam along the cut edge of your two pieces. After you have sewn one set of coins don’t stop. Don’t cut your threads. Just feed the next set of coins through your machine. This is called Chain Stitching and it saves tons of time! So go ahead and Chain Stitch all of your sets of 2 coins.

This is what you will have now: a huge pile of attached sets of 2. Now you can cut the threads between each of your sets.

You should now have a few stacks that each look like the set of 2 on the bottom. Aren’t they cute! So here is where your personal preference comes in. I don’t iron here. I don’t feel it is necessary for me and I like how fast and easy it makes this quilt go together. With that said, if you don’t like working with pieces that aren’t totally flat, feel free to iron your seams.

Now the process starts over again, but this time we are turning sets of 2 into sets of 4. Once again, when grabbing your pieces, try to avoid the same prints next to each other. Now just repeat the process! Lay your sets of 2 right side together, chain stitch you 1/4″ seam, and cut your threads.

You have sets of 4 and you guessed it, we are turning those into sets of 8. You are a pro at this now, huh! Repeat the same process of lining up right sides together, chain stitching and clipping threads.

Now, I go ahead and press all of my seams in one direction. Do this on all 27 of your sets. Yes, that is right, you should have 27 sets now. If you don’t look around on the floor, you have lost a few in the process.

And there you have it. 27 beautiful Change Rows.

STEP 3 – MAKING BLOCKS

This is the layout for your block. You will be making 9 of them. Just a side note before we get started… I liked to make sure that each time I line up a row that I don’t have an identical print across from each other and that I am keeping an even distribution of color. I love the look of random, but I tend to try to control the random a bit :).

So we can start by attaching the center strips to the coin stacks. Go ahead and set aside 9 coin stacks. On the remaining 18 stacks, lay a 16 1/2″ white strip on the right side of your strip making sure your edges line up. Once again, I didn’t pin here but if you prefer to, or if you find your edges aren’t lining up, go ahead and pin. Chain stitch a 1/4 seam on all 18 stacks, clip your threads.

Now pressing. I went ahead and pressed toward the white, I did this to avoid bulk. With that said, there are some prints that you will be able to see through the white strip to the print below. So if that bothers you, go ahead and press toward the prints. Once again, this is a personal preference thing.

We are going to take those 18 strips that you just sewed and sew them together to create 9 total pieces. So this is how you are going to line up your two pieces. (You will be doing this with 9 sets).

Lay your right hand piece on top of your left hand piece with right sides together. Just flip it over, don’t spin it or anything. Go ahead and pin making sure your edges line up. Oh and double check you flipped it right. You know you are aligned correctly if you are pinning the coins to the white strip underneath. Now go ahead and chain stitch your 1/4″ seam along the 9 sets, cut your threads and press.

Now you should have 9 sets that look like this. You are now ready to add on the last row of change. So grab those 9 rows you set aside.

Lay the final row onto your pieced block with right sides together. Pin along the edge. And once again, chain stitch your 1/4″ seam, clip your threads, and press.

You now have 9 beautiful blocks! Don’t they just POP!!

STEP 5 – COMPLETING THE QUILT TOP

Now that your blocks are done, you are ready to get your top all sewn up. Well start by laying out the rows. Go ahead and play with your blocks until you get a scheme that you like. Make sure that your block alignment matches this picture. (ie Row 1 and 3 blocks go vertical, horizontal, vertical while Row 2 blocks go horizontal, vertical, horizontal.) You will want to mark your blocks so that as you pick them up and sew you don’t loose this layout. I find the easiest way is to take a picture that you can refer back to. Done :).

We want to attach the vertical sashings first. Lay your 16 1/2″ white strips on the right hand side of your first 2 blocks in each row. Once again, I didn’t pin, but you can if you want. Sew a 1/4″ seam along the indicated line. Press.

Sew your rows together block by block. You will do this the same way you sewed your blocks together. Sew blocks 1 and 2 of each row together first and then press. Then add block 3, sew and press. If you get confused look back to the instructions of Step 3, its the same just on a bigger scale.

Yippee Skippee!! Your rows are done. Add your long sashing strips and border, and you are done. Grab those 6 super long white strips that you made back when you were cutting. They are a little long but no worry, we’ll trim any excess.

Lay a white sashing along the bottom of your row 1 and another white sashing along the bottom of Row 2. Make sure that you have right sides together. (Seriously, I had to do some unpicking because I wasn’t paying attention here, arghh!!) I didn’t pin, I just lined it up as I sewed it (again, personal preference). Sew 1/4″ seam and press. Go ahead and clip off any excess overhang.

So now you are here! You are ready to sew your rows together!

Take Row 2 (the center row) and lay it up onto Row 1. Go ahead and pin. ** See the next 2 pictures for a note on pinning**

When pinning, you want to take care that you are lining the sashing between your blocks up. To do this, pin your seams on either side of your sashing first.

Double check that they are lined up by flipping up the edge and making sure that the pin are in line with the seams of the sashing. Nice and lined up, okay! Sew your 1/4 seam along the entire row and then press.

You’re here now! Isn’t it just beautiful! Now you are going to add the bottom row the exact same way. Go ahead, you can do it!

You are almost done with the top. Now it is just adding on the borders and they are a snap! Add your two side borders first. Lay a long white sashing along the right side of the quilt and one along the left side of the quilt. Once again, make sure that the right sides are together. ( We don’t want raw seams on quilt tops :). I didn’t pin. Line up your strip as you sew your 1/4″ seam and then trim the excess at the end. Press.

Add the top and the bottom border. And you do it the exact same way you did the side borders. I know you can barely sit still. Go ahead and sew and press!

And there you have it!!! A beautiful stunning quilt top!! Don’t you just love your Sugar Pop N Change!

STEP 6 – MAKING YOUR QUILT BACK

We’ll start the pieced back by making the corner blocks. You need 4 corner blocks. Start by pulling out those 12 left over charms. Grab 4 and cut them in half. Now remember those scraps you had left from your jelly roll? Go ahead and get 4 scraps and cut four 2 1/2″ squares out of them.

That’s all the prep. Now you are ready to sew your 4 corner blocks together. Here is the layout.

First you start by placing your rows right sides together and sew 1/4 seam and press. This is what they should look like now. Remember, you are making 4 🙂

Lay your top row onto your bottom row. Make sure that you line up your seam. Pin and then sew your 1/4″ seam and press.

Your 4 blocks are ready to be trimmed down to size. The corner blocks need to be 6 x 6. You don’t want to trim on the sides that has the 2 1/2″ block. Line your 6″ ruler along the side of your block and trim.

Turn your block 90 degrees clockwise, line up your ruler for 6 inches, and trim again. There you have it, four corner blocks 🙂

Okay, onto making your coin rows. We are going to do this the easy way! It isn’t quite as random but turns out super nice for a border. Layout your 22 25″ jelly roll strips. Play with the layout until you get a nice flow of prints and colors that is pleasing to the eye.

Once you have them the way you like, stack them up right to left. Now you are going to stitch all of the rows together. Start by getting your first two strips from the pile, align them right sides together. Sew 1/4″ seam. Don’t worry about pressing, it can wait. Oh, and if your ends don’t match up perfect no worry, I left some wiggle room in the cutting for that. Go ahead and grab the next row on the pile. Align it to your pieced set and sew your 1/4 seam. Keep repeating this process until you have sewn all 22 of your strips together.

Press your seams in one direction. This is what you should have.

Now we are going to turn this strip into your 4 borders. Fold your strips in half so that they fit on your cutting mat. Line the fold line up along a horizontal line of your mat. Now you want to make a straight edge so line your ruler up along the vertical line of your mat closest to the edge of your fabric and cut. Measure 6 inches over on your mat. Align your ruler and cut. Repeat this 3 more times.

You now have 4 beautiful change rows for your border. Wasn’t that easy?? And now you are ready to put the back together. Get your 1 1/4 yard piece of coordinating fabric. Make sure it is squared up. (I cut mine to 43 3/4″ inches square so that the selvage wouldn’t be left on.) Sorry, My photography skills are not near what my quilting skills are 🙂  Here is the layout for the back.

We’ll start by adding the side borders to the back. There might be a little bit of overhang. No worries, we’ll just trim later. Lay each of your borders along the right and left side of the quilt. Pin, sew your 1/4″ seam, and press. Trim off the excess overhang.

Add your top and bottom border. If you had to trim your sides, it is most likely that you will have to trim your top and bottom as well. However, this time you have to trim your sides first, so your corner blocks will actually end up in the corner 🙂 Lay your top and bottom border out. Now, go ahead and trim off any excess so that you only have 1/4″ overhang from the center back piece. Sorry, that doesn’t make a lot of sense but the picture make it a lot easier to understand. Trim all 4 of your border edges as such.

Now you are ready to add your corner pieces. Lay your corner piece so that the 2 1/2″ block is in the center.  Lay the block over onto the border. Pin. Do this with all 4 blocks. Sew your 1/4″ seam and press.

So this is where you should be now. You are so close. Now it is just adding the top and bottom border.

Lay your top and bottom border onto your center panel. Make sure to align your corner block seams (where my scissors are pointing.) You know what to do: Pin, Sew, and Press!!!

And Ta Da!! Your back is finished!!

STEP 7 – FINISHING UP

Make your quilt sandwich. Taping the back down is a great way to smooth out wrinkles 🙂

Baste. The more pins the merrier 🙂

Quilt. The gloves really do make a difference, I highly recommend them 🙂

And bind! Remember those 15″ strips you set aside. Put them in a mixed up color order and sew them up to make your binding strip. There is a great tutorial here on binding if you haven’t done it before.

And you’re done!! Sit back and Enjoy!!! Oh, and while you are enjoying head over to my Happy Quilting Tutorial’s Flickr page to upload your quilt. I would love to see your work!  Happy Quilting!!

One super fun and bright Sugar Pop N Change Quilt measuring 53″ x 53″. Happy Quilting!!

Melissa Corry

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Spun Sugar

Hi all! I know many of you may have the same line of thinking that I do when I see a fabric line that I just adore – I love Jelly Rolls, but they’re too small of a cut for large print fabric. I love charm packs, but sometimes I need more. I LOVE Layer Cakes, but sometimes I just want more (it’s not bad to be greedy over fabric, is it?) And that’s how we come to this, enough love to go around with a Fat Eighth Bundle. You get just enough of the line to LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!

With just one Fat Eighth Bundle, a border print, and a Main Backing fabric, you too can make one twin size quilt. No extra binding, no extras of anything else, you get it all and then some out of the Fat Eighth Bundle! Want to see how? Follow along…

* One Fat Eighth Bundle (I used Sugar Pop by Liz Scott)

* 2 yards for Borders (I used #18060 21)

* 4 yards for backing (I used #18064 12)

That’s it, now moving on…

 

Choose 35 Fat Eighths to become the blocks, pieced border and binding. Set 5 Fat Eighths aside to be used in the backing of the quilt. (Try to use whatever fabric you’re using for the backing in the quilt top and the border fabric in the back of the quilt)

*Important note: the following instructions are for the 35 Fat Eighths to be used in the quilt top. Cut each of these pieces exactly the same following the diagram in the top corner of the pictures. The yellow highlighted piece is the one being demonstrated in each photo.

Begin by straightening the edge of the fabric and then cutting a long strip from the side. Cut this piece the length of the fabric and make it as wide as you make your binding strips (usually 2 1/4″-2 1/2″ wide). I’m cutting mine 2 1/4″ wide. Set these aside for now.

Straighten one shorter edge of the fabric and trim two segments 3″ wide from this end.

Cut each segment into two 3″ squares. Keep these in sets of two matching squares.

From the remaining fabric, cut a strip 2 1/2″ wide and one 3 1/2″ wide.

Trim each of these strips into a 9 1/2″ and a 4 1/2″ length.

Keep all four pieces cut in this step together in a set. Put aside for now.

Of the border print, cut six strips 2 1/2″ wide and eight strips 6 1/2″ wide.

Pair contrasting sets of the 3″ squares, creating 35 pairs (one for each block). Remember, contrast is key!

(If you are planning on using an angling tool to make Half Square Triangle blocks – highly recommended – skip the next step)

Otherwise for each paired set mark a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the lighter fabric squares. (I forgot to take pictures of these steps – sorry. But, for a how to guide on Half Square Triangles visit my blog and read my tutorial on how to accurately make Half Square Triangles step by step).

Match two of the contrasting squares from each set (one light, one dark) right sides together and sew 1/4″ from both sides of the drawn line (or use the angling tool for this step)

Cut along the drawn line or from corner to corner. Press to the darker fabric. Continue to keep the sets together.

Each Half Square Triangle unit should measure 2 1/2″ square. If they do, “square” or “true up” your piecing.

Sew together two of the Half Square Triangles from each set as shown above. Repeat for all of the sets, making two identically sewn pairs. Press the seam in the same direction as the other seams.

Rotate one of the pairs from the set and nestle the seams together.

Pin to secure the piece and stitch together.

Cut a slit in the center of the seam allowance (not through the stitching) and press the seams all circling in the same direction. This will help your block lay nice and flat and reduce bulk in the process. Repeat these steps to make all 35 pinwheels.

Match each of the pinwheel blocks with a set of the last four cut pieces from each Fat Eighth. Remember once again, contrast is key!

Stitch a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ piece on one side of the pinwheel and a 3 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ piece on the opposite side. Press away from the pinwheel.

Sew a 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ on one side of the block and a 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ piece on the opposite side. Once again press away from the pinwheel. Make all 35 blocks the same.

Layout all blocks until you have the colors balanced in a way that is pleasing to you.

Begin twisting the blocks so the pinwheel is anchored in a corner. The arrows above show which corner the pinwheel should be anchored in. (This way, there are virtually no seams to line up besides the ones created when sewing each block together. It is VERY forgiving if you should happen to make a mistake…not that it ever happens…) If you notice, every other block is anchored in the same corner.

Sew on the first border consisting of the 2 1/2″ strips cut earlier.

Choose 13 of the long strips cut and set aside earlier from the Fat Eighths to be used for the next border. Cut each of these strips into two or three random lengths.

I then threw mine into a clean paper bag and randomly drew them out one at a time to sew into one long chain.

The chain will be quite long. Press all of the seams in one direction.

If you sew this border onto the quilt always with the seam towards you (like in the picture above) you will not have to worry about the seam flipping positions on you and it will make it much easier to attach the next border.

Sew this pieced border onto the quilt, one side at a time.

Sew the last border onto the quilt using the 6 1/2″ wide strips cut earlier.

Remember these five fabrics we set aside at the beginning? Now it’s their turn to be used. Trim these prints (like the border strips) into random lengths anywhere from 9″ x 9″ – 9″ x 15″ or so. Also trim the backing fabric into two equal length pieces approximately 72″.

Sew the random pieces into another large pieced strip. Trim this strip to match the length of the larger backing pieces. (measure to get it exact or really close)

Sew the pieced strip in between the two backing pieces. Press away from the pieced strip.

With 16 of the remaining long strips from each Fat Eighth, stitch these together to make yourself a scrappy binding to match the quilt. Press the length of the strip in half, wrong sides together making one really long strip.

Quilt however your heart desires, this is what I happened to do on mine. Attach your binding and…

Voila! One absolutely adorable (or handsome if made for a guy) twin size quilt!

Complete with a pieced back to add a little flair. (You either have to add this pieced strip in the back or get an additional piece for backing as 4 yards will not be enough, but once you see this, why wouldn’t you want to add the pieced strip in? Plus you already have the fabric for it in the Fat Eighth Bundle!)

You can see how using the strips in many parts of the quilt ties it all together.

And the quilting just finishes it off.

Wouldn’t this just be perfect for a growing kid?


Stop by my blog and say hi! or e-mail me if you have any questions about this tutorial. I’d love to see any pictures of your version of this quilt. You can e-mail them to me and I’ll post them on my blog or you can add them to the Moda Bake Shop group on Flickr. Until next time!

Rebecca Silbaugh

Ruby Blue Quilting Studio
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