Vintage Modern Bag



 Hi guys! I am super excited to share with you my bag, a little nervous also.  I am Stacey, and I blog over at Stacey’s Place.  This is my 3rd bake shop recipe.  This bag is is small, but super cute, and really sturdy!  I hope you enjoy it!


1 layer cake Vintage Modern by Bonnie and Camille
1 yard Pebble Polka dot fabric
Interfacing


Cording
Magnetic Clasp

For exterior bag pieces:
20- 2 ½” x 2 ½” print
20- 1 ½” x 4 ½” print
2- 1 ½” x 10 ½” gray polka dot
For lining pieces:
2- 9 1/8” x 9 ¾” (exterior)
2- 7 1/8” x 9 ¾” (interior)
cording
For straps:
9- 2 ½” x 2 ½” print
8- 1 ½” x 4 ½” print
1- 2 ½” x 33 ½” gray polka dot
Interfacing (use whatever type you want, lightweight up to heavyweight.  I used a mediumweight thin interfacing.)
1. Sew 5 of your 2 ½” x 2 ½” squares together as shown above. Repeat 3 more times so you have 4 total.
2. Sew two of your strips from step 1 together as shown, repeat with the remaining two pieces.
3. Sew 10 of your 1 ½” x 4 ½” strips together as shown. Repeat once more with the remaining 10 pieces.
4. Take one of your pieces from step 2, one of your 1 ½” x 10 ½” gray polka dot, and one of your pieces from step 3 and attach them together with your piece from step 2 on top, your 1 ½” x 10 ½” gray polka dot piece in the middle, and your piece from step 3 on the bottom. This is one completed panel for the outside of your bag. Repeat once more.
5.  Cut out a piece of interfacing and depending if you have fusible or sew in, attach to the wrong side of your exterior bag piece.
6.  Pin your two exterior pieces together right sides together and sew a ¼” seam down from the top right all the way around the bottom, and up the left side. Make sure you leave the top open.
7. Take your corner and press the lower corner down, so that the side seam is centered on top of the bottom seam. I used my ruler to line up an inch and a half, draw a line across. This is your stitching line.
8. Sew together one each of the lining pieces along the 9 ¾” side. Press open. Repeat with the remaining two lining pieces.
9.  Pin your cording on the right side of the 7 1/8” side, lining up the raw edge of the cording with the fabric piece. Sew as close as you can to the cording without actually sewing the cord piece itself. Then I flip my piece over and pin my other lining piece from step 6, making sure to pin your 7 1/8” side right side facing with your other 7 1/8” piece from earlier in this step. Your cording is going to be sandwiched in between both lining pieces. This is where flipping your piece comes in handy. You can use your stitched seam from earlier in this step as your guide to sew these two pieces together.
Turn these pieces right side out, and press.
10. Sew a ¼” seam across, this just makes it look pretty while keeping both sides attached together.
11.  Now you are going to lay this flat as it looks in a bag, with right sides facing together, and the wrong side is on the outside. This bag has two interior sides, and the piece you just sewed with the cording is your center divider. Now you need to pin one side of the exterior lining piece to the interior lining piece right sides together. Sew your ¼” seam up to where the two pieces end at the cording piece. Then repeat this with your other 3 sides. This is sewing together the sides of your bag interior. When all sides are sewed, then pin together the top side right sides together the rest of the way up. Repeat this for the other side. Now you have your lining of your bag assembled.
12.  Now you need to add your magnetic clasp where you want it, per manufacturer’s instructions.

13.  Pin a piece of cording to your exterior bag piece on the right side. Sew. Fold over as close to the cording as you can.
14.  Insert your lining into the exterior bag piece, wrong sides facing. You are going to need to fold over the lining piece at the top for the seam towards the wrong side of the lining piece. Start pinning at your side seam (I pinned both sides at the seams, then worked my way around), so they line up, and make sure the lining gets pinned to the outer bag piece close to the cording. I made my bag have a crease on the front and back sides right around where the magnetic clasps are.
15.  Sew all the way around the bag close to cording.
The strap:
Take your 9- 2 ½” squares and sew them together in a strip. Then take your 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangles and sew them two together along the 4 ½” side. You will have 4 of these total. Sew two sets together along the 2 ½” side. Repeat. Add one to each side of your 2 ½” squares strip. This makes your strap.
Take your 2 interfacing pieces (2” x 33”) and fuse it to the wrong side of both strap pieces, your one you just made, and your gray polka dot strap piece.
Fold and Iron your ¼” seam to the wrong side. This just helps for when you pin these two pieces together. Pin your two strap pieces wrong sides together. Sew close to the edge.
Pin your strap to the outside of your bag, I lined up up on the 2” square on the side seam, and centered it. Make sure you fold over your raw edge of the strap so when you sew your strap to the bag it will be hidden inside your seam. Sew. Repeat for the other side.
You are finished, now enjoy your beautiful bag!


1 beautiful Vintage Modern Bag!

Stacey Carey
{Stacey’s Place}

Birchbark Lodge Quilt


Hello folks, I am Stacey and I blog over at Stacey’s Place. I am super excited, and a little nervous to share with you my second project here for the Bake Shop. I sketched this quilt up a long time ago and was not sure what to do with it for a while. As you can see I finally decided and am ecstatic about it! These pictures really do not do it justice; it’s a new family favorite in my house for sure! The line, Birchbark Lodge by Holly Taylor goes perfectly with our outdoorsy lifestyle (we live in Maine). I have a special place in my heart for traditional quilt blocks. I love the modern blocks too, but quilts like this one sing to me… I hope you enjoy!



1 fat quarter bundle, Birchbark Lodge by Holly Taylor
3 yds solid color for main background
5 yds backing
1/2 yd binding

You need:
52- 4″ x 4″ pinwheels
cut 104 solid 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares
cut 104 print 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares

4- 2″ x 2″ pinwheels
cut 8 solid 1 7/8″ x 1 7/8″ squares
cut 8 print 1 7/8″ x 1 7/8″ squares

40- 2″ x 4″ flying geese
cut 40 solid 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles
cut 80 print 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

32- 8″ x 8″ stars
cut 128 solid 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
cut 128 print 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
cut 128 solid 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares
cut 128 print 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares

24- 8″ x 8″ strip squares (cut after your other fabric pieces are cut; use the remaining fat quarter fabric)
cut 192 print 1 1/2″ strips
cut 48 solid triangles from diagram A

Flying Geese block:
On your 80 print 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the square. Place the print square right sides together on top of the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ solid rectangle so that the line is placed like in the picture below. Sew on that diagonal line. Trim off excess, making sure you leave a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press open. Repeat for the remaining 39 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces and the 39 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ print squares.

Repeat for the other side.

This is your flying geese block.

You will have 40 of these fully completed.

Pinwheel block:
Take each of your solid squares and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the fabric. Sew a 1/4″ seam on both sides of the line.

Cut on that line.

Press open. This yields two half square triangles. Layout your two half square triangles as shown below.

Sew. Repeat from beginning of pinwheel directions again.

You now have two of these units. Layout according to picture below.

Pin together and sew. Press open. Your pinwheel block is complete.

Repeat with remaining blocks until you have 52 finished pinwheel blocks.

Star block:
You need 4 of your solid 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares and 4 print 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the fabric. Place one solid and one print square right sides together.


Sew a 1/4″ seam on each side of the line. Cut on the line.


Press open. You have made your half square triangle. Repeat with the 3 remaining squares of each.


Next you need 2 solid 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, and 2 of your half square triangles you just made. Sew them together as shown. Press your seams to the left. Repeat once more so you have two like this.


Now, you need 2 half square triangles, and 2 print 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. Sew together as shown below. Press seams to the right. Repeat again so you have two of these.


Sew the 4 rows that you just made together as shown below to complete your star block. Press your row seams down.
Repeat with remaining fabric, you need 32 completed star blocks.

Strip block:
You need 8 of the 1 1/2″ strips you cut earlier. Sew them together as shown.


I used my 8 1/2″ Omnigrid ruler, and I lined up my diagonal line on the seam that has 4 strips on each side. Trim off the excess that is past your 8 1/2″ square.


Diagram A:

Attach your cut piece from diagram A to one side. Sew press.

Repeat for the other side.

You will have 24 of these completed blocks.

You now need to sew your pieces according to the quilt layout.

Layer, Quilt, and Bind!


1 super cozy comfy quilt measuring 64″ x 80″.

Stacey Carey
{staceysplace.com}

Layer Cake Wallet


Hello, I am super excited to be featured today! This is my first Moda Bake Shop design, and I hope you like it. I am Stacey from Maine, and I blog over at Stacey’s Place. I sure hope you stop by my blog today to get to know me a little better, and for a special treat (did someone mention giveaway?!?).


5 Layer Cake Pieces, cut as follows:

2 exterior pieces 4 ½” x 8 ¼”
2 interior pieces 4 ½” x 8 ¼”
1 fusible fleece 3 ½” x 7 ¾”
4 décor bond interfacing 4 ½” x 8 ¼”
1 strap (exterior fabric) 6 ½” x 4 ½”
1 fusible fleece (for strap) 6 ½” x 1 ½”
Snap (or velcro)
for card slots:
2 interior pieces 5” x 4 ½”
2 exterior pieces 6” x 4 ½”
2 interior pieces 7” x 4 ½”


  1. On the wrong side of 1 exterior piece, fuse the 3 ½” x 7 ¾” fusible fleece in the center. Then fuse an interfacing piece to the wrong side over the fleece. On the remaining exterior piece and the two interior pieces, fuse interfacing to the wrong side.
     
  2. Place the two exterior pieces right sides together, leaving a 3” opening on one of the short sides. Sew a ¼” seam. Clip the 4 corners, being careful not to cut your stitching. Turn right side out and press.

  3. Take your 6 pieces for your card slots, fold in half wrong sides together and press. Edge-stitch on the top edge where the fold is. Then stitch a 3/8” seam from the folded edge. Your folded measurements are small 2 ½” x 4 ½”, medium 3” x 4 ½”, and large 3 ½” x 4 ½”.

  4. With your interior piece and one small, medium, and large card slot piece, place a large piece on top of the interior piece. Match raw edges. Place a medium piece on top of the large one. Place a small one on top of the medium. Sew a ¼” seam to attach the slots to the interior piece. Repeat on the other side.

  5. Place two interior pieces right sides together, leaving a 3” opening on the long bottom side. Sew a ¼” seam. Clip the 4 corners, being careful not to cut your stitching. Turn right side out and press.

  6. Edge-stitch along both the exterior and interior pieces, starting and ending ¼” on the sides.

  7. With your strap piece, fuse fusible fleece to the wrong side about 1” in from the edge. Fold your 1” piece wrong side onto the fleece. Fold the other piece in half, and fold again and match to the other side. Edge-stitch down the side, making sure you fold the end under. Edge-stitch and then edge-stitch down the other side.

  8. Place your exterior piece and your interior piece on top of each other. Make sure the side you are using for the outside of your wallet is on the bottom. Make sure your interior piece is laying with the card slots facing up. In between these two pieces is going to be your money slot.

  9. This is where I mock fold, to see where the strap goes, and where to place my snaps. On the exterior piece, fasten on the outside (through your side opening) where you want your bottom snap to be located. Follow manufacturer’s directions for snaps.

  10. Place the snap where you want the top portion of your snap on the strap and fasten according to manufacturer’s directions. Attach the bottom portion of your snap and fasten according to manufacturer’s directions.

  11. Now fold your wallet in half and snap together. Adjust your strap to where it looks right. Pin in place.

  12. Make sure your exterior and interior pieces are lined up. Starting at the top of your side piece, edge-stitch down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side. **make sure you backtack each side** And remember not to edge-stitch the top. You already did this in a previous step.

  13. All done, now you have a super cute wallet, from a easy and fast pattern, Enjoy!!



1 super cute wallet!

Stacey Carey
{Stacey’s Place}