Snuggle Play Laugh Love Quilt


Hello everyone, I am Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Sewing and I want to introduce you to my first Moda Bake Shop quilt, Snuggle Play Laugh Love (SPLL).  It is a baby quilt to snuggle with and to be used as a play mat. It is a great quilt that looks complicated, but is super easy for any beginner to make.

So what led me to think of something like this? When my sister and I were babies, my mom would place a quilt down on the floor with abundance of toys to keep us busy. This left my mom free to get some house cleaning done while we rolled around on the floor. I did the same thing with my daughter when she was little too. However, she turned out to be a bit of a blanket caper as she grew from a baby to a bouncing toddler. Needless to say, my daughter’s quilts and blankets have been part of many imaginative adventures.

Now that you know the story behind the idea of this little quilt, lets get started……

  • One Moda Charm Pack ~ Lily & Will (pink) Bunny Hill Designs By Anne Sutton
  • 1 yard for the inner boarder and binding (Essential Dots Baby Pink on White)
  • 1 yard for the outer boarder (Lily & Will Posh Pink Plaid 2806 11*) 
  • 1 1/8 yard for the backing (Lily & Will Pink 2800 11*)
  • If piecing in a strip of fabric in the middle of the backing, you only need 1 yard for the backing
  • 3/8 yard for applique and a strip of fabric for the backing (Best to use Bella Solids Brown)
  • Plus interfacing of choice for applique


  • You will be using 41 out of the 42 charm squares
  • For the inner border to go around the charm squares, you will need to cut out 20- 5 inch x 5 inch squares.  To start, cut 3 – 5in x width of fabric (wof) strips. Then cut the strips down to 5in x 5in squares  
  • For the main border, cut out 4 – 5 1/2 inches x wof strips
  • If using the pieced strip in the back to split up the 1 yard backing, cut 4 1/2 in x wof from the Bella Solids Brown
  • All seam allowances are 1/4 inch through out.

Step 1:

Open up your charm pack and sort the squares you want to use. Then arrange them according to the pattern scheme.

*You can place your color ways in any way that appeals to your eye. You do not by all means have to follow the color order in this pattern.

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Step 2:

Now that you have all your charm squares sorted, add the 20 – 5 in x 5 in squares to the ends of each row. Once the 20 squares are in place, sew each row according to the arrows.

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Step 3:

Before you start sewing each completed row together, note that there are arrows pointing on opposite directions on the out side of each row in the picture below. This is meant to to show you which way to press your seams. The reason why you want to press your seams in opposite directions is because when you go to sew the completed rows together, the seams will interlock when you match them up. This technique will make your seams turn out sharp and correct every time. Once seams are ironed, start sewing the completed rows together.

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You should have the beginning of a quilt top that looks like this:

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Step 4

Next up is to cut off those pointed edges. Start by measuring 1/4 of an inch away from the main part of the quilt top. This way when you go to sew on the main border, your main squares on your quilt top will not be sewn over; leaving the ends of the squares still having visible points towards the main border. Once you have your ruler set cut away the outer pointed edges with your rotary cutter.  When you are done, you should have a completely square quilt top. Check picture below for a reference.

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Step 5

Take the 4 –  5 1/2 in x wof border and sew one of the borders to the top of the quilt. Sew the next border to the bottom, and then add borders to the sides. Since you cut the borders with the width of fabric, you will have to trim the excess material. Trim up any excessive material and square off edges as needed.

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Step 6

You should have a quilt that looks like this:

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The Applique Process

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Step 7

The templates are available in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post. Or watch this video to learn how to make them on your own through Microsoft Office using Word.

Once I had my templates printed, I cut them out.

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Step 8

*The method that I used for my applique process was to take the 3/8 yd (or 1/4 yard if cut down from piecing in the backing) Bella Solid Brown fabric and a piece of scrap fabric, I then bonded the fabrics together with Heat N Bond Lite.  The reason why I went with this method is because I did not want to deal with the paper backing from the Heat N Bond lite. However, feel free to use whatever applique method you are comfortable with.

Take your cut templates and place them on the back of your bonded material. Make sure that the templates are facing backwards too.


Step 9

Then take a pencil and trace around your templates. When you are done tracing your templates, you should have something that looks like this.

Laugh 2

Step 10

Cut out your applique words and letters. Once your appliques are cut out, you are ready to place them on the quilt top. I placed them on each corner just above the final square. I then hand stitched each applique onto the quilt top with a whipstitch. Use whatever hand stitch method you are most comfortable with. You can also opt for machine stitching with a blanket stitch or zigzag stitch.

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Step 12

Finishing off the quilt

I pieced my backing together with a 4 1/2 in x wof strip of fabric leftover from the Bella Solid Brown. I did it this way so I could sew in a label. I put the quilt together with the backing, batting, and my quilt top. I basted it together with safety pins.

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Lastly, I quilted this quilt on my own with my walking foot and a simple wave method. I also used a very thin batting to make machine quilting easier. The picture looks like a squiggly mess but this is how I quilted my quilt and it was very easy to do.

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After quilting, I added my binding to complete this quilt.

A lap size/play mat quilt measuring 40 in x 40 in.

love 2

Thanks so much for stopping by.

Take care all!

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Jennifer Overstreet
{Gable House Quilting and Designs}

Topsy Turvy Quilt

One layer cake – Lily and Will by Bunny Hill Designs
2 7/8 yards background fabric – Bella Solid in Snow
2/3 yard for binding – Posh Green Plaid
3 2/3 yards for backing – Cottontail Green
All seam allowances are 1/4″ throughout.
First, cut the background fabric into 40 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x width of fabric.
Next, choose 30 fabrics from the layer cake. Make sure that they contrast well with the background color.
Then, take one 10″ square and trim small slivers off each side of the block. (I used a dark fabric for the sample block for contrast purposes.) Don’t trim more than 1/2″-3/4″ off each side, or the block will become too small. Just a bit taken off each side is sufficient.
Cut two strips of background fabric approximately the height of the square.
Sew on to the block and press.

Trim off the excess ends of the strip so the ends are even with the rest of the block.

Cut two more strips of background fabric that are slightly wider than the block.
Sew and press.
Using a 12.5″ square, trim around all 4 sides of the block.
The block is finished.

Repeat above steps until all 30 blocks are made.

Layout the blocks in a pleasing arrangement. The layout is 5 blocks across and 6 rows down.
Sew blocks together in rows and then sew the rows together.
Baste, quilt and bind as desired.
Since I used a plaid binding, I cut the strips (2 1/4″) on the bias. A little fiddly, but well worth the final results.
One lap quilt that measures 60″ x 72″.
Amanda Jean

Log Cabin Baby Blocks

Hi! I’m Sarah and I’m so excited to bring you my second Moda Bake Shop recipe! This is a fun quilting project where you don’t just make a flat quilt block, you really make a block! You can create precious blocks for baby with the soft and sweet Lily & Will line by Bunny Hill make a super-sized pincushion with a bright and modern print.

Log cabin blocks are simple and fun! They are a great way to ease into quilting because the blocks are very forgiving. No worrying about points matching up and if your seam allowance isn’t perfect, no one will even notice! If you are an experienced quilter, the log cabin block is simple and quick, and makes an adorable gift!

1 or 2 Charm Packs, I used Bunny Hill Designs’ Lily & Will
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of muslin or scrap fabric (fabric is not visible when project is complete)
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of your choice of batting, I use Warm & Natural
polyester stuffing
coordinating thread
rotary cutter
cutting mat

1. Decide which fabrics you’d like to use for your block. Using 2 charm packs, I made 3 blocks: 1 pink, 1 green and 1 blue. Sort your charms into color families to make choosing prints easier.

2. Choose the fabrics for your log cabin blocks! You can make a mock-up arrangement with your charm squares as shown below. Typically a log cabin block has two adjacent sides in one color and the other two sides in a second color, but you can choose whatever arrangement you’d like! I choose creams and browns for two sides and pink/blue/green for the other two sides.

3. When you are happy with the arrangement, cut your center piece into a 1-1/2” square. Each “log” will be made from 1” strips cut from the charm squares. You won’t use up all the fabric, so I cut just as many strips as I needed. (If there’s a fun print you want to highlight, feel free to fussy cut and even omit one set of strips and cut your center square 2-1/2”. I fussy cut the bunny out of the larger-scale print for a center and also fussy cut “logs” from the border print.)

4. To create the log cabin block, you simply sew one strip on a time, going around the center square and building upon each previous strip. See the numbered diagram below. Use a 1/4” seam. Build your block one “log” at a time. You can use your fingers to gently press the seams open before adding each strip or press open with your iron. Trim excess at least once each time around the center square. You can use a single strip for two of the shorter “logs.” Depending on how accurate your 1/4″ seam is, the logs will all finish to 1/2″ wide.

6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 for each block, until you have six blocks that measure 4 1/2” square.

7. Cut (6) 4 1/2” squares of batting and (6) 4 1/2” squares of muslin or scrap fabric.

8. Make a quilt sandwich with muslin on the bottom, batting in the middle and your finished log cabin block on top. Quilt as desired. I like a to sew a square spiral starting in the center, but a diagonal grid or stippling would also work well! The purpose of the quilting is to make the sides of your completed block sturdier. But is decorative as well. Be sure to pull the ends of your threads to the backing by pulling the bobbin thread. Then tie the ends so your quilting won’t come undone, especially if this will be a toy. I used a bright thread so you could see the quilting pattern, but you’ll want to use a coordinating neutral just in case the bobbin thread pulls up to the top.

9. Arrange your six blocks into two rows of three. Sew together at side seams using a 1/4” seam allowance, right (pieced) sides together, so raw edges will be hidden.

10. This is where your flat miniature quilts turn into a three dimensional project! Keeping the pieced sides toward the inside, fold the block rows into a “C” shape.

Using a single seam, sew the two block rows together as shown below, again with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  If you stitch just about 3/4″ in from the corners on either side of the opening the turned and finished block will have cleaner points.

This may be a little awkward, but just remember to pivot 1/4″ from the corners with the needle in the down position. Before sewing each side, align the layer edges. It’s also helpful to reinforce your stitching at the corners so the stitches don’t come loose as you turn it right side out. You’ll find it’s easier than it looks!


11. Turn your cube inside out and stuff with polyester fiberfill.You can make a very soft or firm block.

12. Hand stitch the opening closed using a slipstitch or ladderstitch.

You’re all done!

1 Charm Pack has more than enough fabric to complete a single block. With 2 Charm Packs I made 3 coordinating blocks with fabric scraps to spare. Give a single block or a set as a special baby shower gift or 1st birthday gift!

Make a few plain (1 fabric per side) blocks with leftover charm squares to go along with Log Cabin Baby Blocks to quickly create a gift!

Sarah Meyer

Snuggly Squares Baby Quilt

Hi, my name is Melissa Corry and this is my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial. To say I am excited would be a huge understatement! I am a huge fan of the MBS and have made lots of tutorials from this site. I am so honored to have one of my designs here. I tried to put some of me into this tutorial and hope you get to know me a bit through making this quilt. So get ready to have a few laughs (I hope), make an adorable quilt, and above all, enjoy some Happy Quilting! If you ever want to stop by my stomping grounds you can find me over

Quilt Top

1 Lily and Will Layer Cake – That’s right, a whole quilt out of one layer cake. Pretty simple, huh?

Quilt Back

1 1/4 yards of a coordinating print

A quick side note before we start. I tried to make this tutorial very beginner friendly. If you are not a beginner feel fee to simply skim the instructions for what you need. If you are a beginner and you happen to have questions please don’t hesitate to ask. You can email me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com. I will try to answer all of your questions asap.

We are going to start by cutting out the sashing for each of the 25 blocks and a few of the small squares. Pull the following pictured 25 prints out of your layer cake. There are 2 of each print except for the pink print on the side. You will only need one of the pink small flower print for the center block.

So do you have your 25 cake slices? (I am going to keep referring to them as that, just so you know) Great, use the diagram below to cut them. Now don’t go and cut all 25 stacked together. You will never end up with straight lines. In the same sense, cutting one at a time will take you all day. I would suggest cutting around 3-5 pieces at a time, depending on how confident you are with your cutting skills.

Now that the biggest cutting part is done, the rest will be “cake” (tee hee hee). Next we are going to cut the fabric needed for our binding strip. Go ahead and pull out the following pictured 6 slices of cake. That’s 2 prints, 3 of each.

Cut the 6 prints using the following guide. This will be simple compared to what you have already cut.

Now this next cutting might seem a little silly but I always feel the larger the scrap piece the better. So we are moving on to the small squares and so that we have the exact amount we need you are only cutting one piece of cake right now. So pull out one small pink flower print.

Go ahead and cut it according to the following diagram. (Or just look at the picture above, I forgot to take a picture of it before I cut it, oops 🙂 Isn’t it nice to have a big scrap piece?

Now we are going to cut the remaining small squares needed for our quilt top. You should have the following 10 pieces of cake left, 2 of each print.

Cut the 10 pieces of cake using the following diagram. Once again, don’t cut them all at once. Taking a little extra time to cut always saves time down the road. And yes, now you have a few more lovely scraps.

So that’s it. All of the cutting is done. You should have the following stacks: binding pieces, long sashing pieces, short sashing fabrics, and small squares (or 2 stacks of small squares if you don’t want one super tall stack).


So I can hear you asking already, why are we starting with the borders. I will tell you why. Because when you finish putting all of your blocks together you will be super excited. Your quilt will be practically finished and you are just going to want to see it all laid out and nice. This is not the time to be sewing a bunch of 2 1/2″ squares together. So we do it first so they will be waiting anxiously for you.
Take all of your 2 1/2″ squares (you should have 184 of them) and mix them up. You want to make sure you get a good random look on your borders. I like to do this by putting them in a zip lock bag, blowing some air in it, sealing it, and then shaking it up. Like the following picture. This is what works for me, if you can randomly pick from a pile, go right ahead. Whatever way works for you.

We will begin by chain piecing the 2 1/2″ squares for the border pieces together (note, you will have extra squares). To do this, pick 2 squares out of the bag, if they are the same, throw one back and pick again. This might be cheating the random factor but I just don’t like the same print next to itself. Place the 2 pieces right sides together, and sew a 1/4 seam down one side. It doesn’t matter which. Note, I don’t use pins on small squares but if you are just starting feel free to use pins. Don’t cut your thread, this is where the chain stitching begins. Just keep feeding the sets of squares through your machine until you have stitched 42 sets.

This is what it should look like: 42 squares all linked together in a fun little pile.

Now go ahead and cut the threads between each square. I always find it is easiest to lay them out in a long row and then cut. I just figure there is less chance of me accidentally cutting the material.

Take 2 sets of 2 squares and set them aside for future use.

Now take your remaining 40 sets of 2 and chain stitch them into sets of 4. Meaning take a set of 2 and place it right sides together onto another set of 2 and then sew 1/4″ seam so you create 4 blocks in a row. Continue this process with all 40 sets. Once again, I try to make sure that I am not putting similar prints next to each other. Just my personal preference 🙂

Go ahead and cut your threads again. Now you should have 20 sets of 4 squares. Set aside 4 sets of 4. We will use them in a few minutes. (Well I guess that depends on how fast you sew.)

Bet you can’t guess what is next. Chain stitch your remaining 16 sets of 4 into 8 sets of 8.

Cut and you now have 8 sets that are 8 squares long. I stopped taking pictures here as I figured you were getting the hang of it.

Take your 8 sets of 8 and chain stitch them into 4 sets of 16. Cut your threads and you now have 4 sets of 16 squares.

Now this is where those blocks that we set aside come in. Chain stitch a set of 4 squares to each row of 16 squares. Cut your threads. Now you have 4 rows of 20 squares.

Last but not least, you are going to retrieve your 2 sets of 2 you set aside. Sew them onto 2 rows of 20 squares. Now you have 2 rows of 20 blocks (your short borders) and 2 rows of 22 blocks. (your long borders.)

Easy enough right. Go ahead and press your borders now. I find it is easiest to just press them all in one direction. Go ahead and set your borders aside to wait patiently for your blocks to be done.


Go back to your bag of squares. Once again, you are going to be chain stitching into sets of 2. Just in case you need a reminder, right sides together, and try to avoid putting similar fabrics together. Go ahead and stitch the remaining 100 squares to make 50 sets of 2squares. Oh ya, you got this chain stitching thing down!

Here is your pile of 50 sets of 2. Go ahead and cut them so they are ready to press.

I am going to tell you how I like to press. I like to press my seams to one side. This way when I make the 4 patch square I can “nest” my seams nicely. If you prefer to press your seams open please do so. It will work just as well.

Now you should have a stack of 50 sets of 2’s nice and pressed. Don’t they look pretty!

Next we are going to create your center blocks of 4. Now your first tendency is going to be to line up the edges, but fight that, remember that in this case, lining up the center seam is far more important than the ends. Now that that has been said, on to the blocks. Place 2 sets of 2 right sides together and “nest” your seams. Meaning, the two should rest right together, side by side, so that when you sew, you get a beautiful perfect point of 4 blocks in the center. Pin your blocks together at the seam. I like to pin all 25 sets of blocks first and then sew. This way my chain stitching goes faster. Chain stitch your 25 sets using your 1/4″ seam. Oh, and don’t sew over pins, it is a bad habit, and a hard one to break, believe me, I know!

Go ahead and cut your threads and then press your seams. I like to press these seams open so that I don’t get bulk issues in the center.

Continue this process with your 25 blocks. Now you have 25 adorable 4 square blocks. Way to go!!


We will start the sashing by sewing on the short sides first. These are the short sides, the 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles.

Line up one sashing, right sides together, along the side of a 4 patch block and sew a 1/4″ seam. Set the matching sashing in a pile next to you. Continue chain stitching all of the first sashings for the 25 blocks.

You should have a pile of 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles and then a long line of 4 patch blocks with one sashing on, attached to the side. Go ahead and cut the threads of your chain stitching.

Now we are going to repeat the process on the opposite side of your four patch block. Take care to make sure you are matching up the same sashing prints. Otherwise you are going to get a much more random look 🙂 Chain stitch your 25 blocks and then cut your threads.

Once again, I like to press my seams out here. If you have a different preference, go right ahead and press them as you prefer.

Now we will add the longer sashing aka the 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles. And once again, make sure to match your print 🙂 …Unless you like random, who am I to squash creative genius? Repeat the same process as the short side sashings, adding one side first to all 25 blocks and then the second side to the 25 blocks.

Okay, this is where I have I wish I could alter a picture. I pressed these seams out but I wish I would have pressed them open. So Press them OPEN. It will avoid bulkiness.

So now you should have 25 amazing blocks, with amazing center points, and amazing beautiful prints! By the way, you are pretty amazing too, and the rest of this you will fly through! Your getting close! … and I use exclamation points too much 🙂


Lay out your blocks according to the following picture. I know it is kind of hard to see the prints but look closely. Or, if you don’t want this exact layout, play around with it until you get the perfect layout for you. Oh how I wish I had one of those nifty felt walls so I didn’t always have to do this part on my floor. Oh well, some day . . .

Now, this is where I abandon chain stitching. Mostly because I really, really, liked this layout and didn’t want to have to try and figure it out again, and once you start picking up several blocks it is easy to forget where they go back. Go ahead and lay the first block in the first row on top of the second block. You’re just basically going to flip it over on top of the second block. Don’t spin it or anything. Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the side where the pen points.

Now lay the first and second block (that are sewn together even though they aren’t in the picture, sorry, my bad) onto the third block and sew a 1/4″ seam where the pen points.

Continue this process with the fourth and fifth blocks until you have the entire first row sewn together. Go ahead and press your seams one direction. But remember which direction because the next row you will press in the opposite direction. This helps to get rid of bulk issues and also makes it so you can nest your seams when you sew your rows together.

Oh, and just a side note, I like to put a pin in my first block of each row. This is just something I learned along the way and it really helps to keep me straight when I get things turned around with sewing and ironing and such.

So go ahead and continue this process with the remaining 4 rows. Make sure again to press each row the opposite way of the row before. So basically left, right, left, right, left. (Do you feel like you are in the army now?)

Now you are ready to sew your rows together. Oh, this is getting exciting! Go ahead and lay row 1 over onto row 2. Do the same with row 4 onto row 5. You are going to pin the top of each row so that when you open it, row 1 will be on top of row 2 and row 4 will be on top of row 4. (Sorry, I should have put the pen in there again, I hope this makes sense.)

You are going to pin these like crazy! Once again, focus on your seams and not on the sides. I like to nest the block seams first (where the 2 blocks are sewn together) and then go back and pin the rest of my seams second. If you have extra bulk go ahead and smooth it down and then put in a vertical pin. This will help take care of those little bulky issues.

Sew the rows together. Make sure to take your pins out as you go. I like to take them out, just before I would run over them. This way my seams don’t shift.

Press your seams (I pressed them open, but you can press them any old way you like). Lay your quilt back out again, use those pins in the first block to help. Now lay row three up onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2. This time you are going to pin the bottom (or the intersection of row 2 and 3). Once you got it all pinned, sew your 1/4″ seam. I know it is tempting to fly right over those pins but trust me. It takes less time to pull them out than to replace your needle.

Press again. Lay your quilt out again. Now fold rows 4 and 5 that you sewed previously onto rows 1,2, and 3. Pin along the intersection of row 3 and 4. Sew and press.

And there it is!! Your 25 blocks all sewn together. Aren’t you happy now to know that your borders are already done and you don’t have to go back to chain piecing?


Lay out your borders: short rows on the top and bottom and long rows on the sides. Make sure that none of your corners end up being the same. It would be a pity to avoid that the entire time and then miss it on the last step.

Lay your short rows onto your pieced blocks on the top and bottom of your quilt. Once again, pin like crazy. I pinned along each seam making sure it matched up with the seams of the blocks. Stitch 1/4″ seam. Press towards your border. (I know, less pictures and more directions, but you are a pro by now, you are probably skipping these words all together 🙂

This is where you are now. Only 2 sides to add and then you are done!! Attach the long sides the same way as the short sides. Pin like crazy, sew, and press towards the border.

Now give the entire quilt top another nice pressing on the top. Stand back and admire!


First you are going to make your binding strip. I know, backwards again. But like before, I find that once I finish quilting my quilt I just want to get it finished asap and I hate having to go back and create the binding strip. So I do it first. Go ahead and pull out those binding pieces (the 2 1/2″ x 10″ rectangles) and create your binding strip. I know that isn’t a whole lot of help if you have never made one but if you don’t know how, check out this amazing tutorial here on the Bake Shop to learn:
Now you are ready to baste, quilt, and bind. Once again, I know that doesn’t really help if you don’t know how. Unfortunately, it would be a tutorial in itself to teach the techniques. So go ahead and surf around for free motion quilting tutorials. Believe me, there are hundreds, that’s how I learned 🙂

You’re done!! You should have something that looks along the lines of this. Now just sit back and enjoy your Snuggly Squares Baby Quilt!

One adorable quilt measuring 42 x 42 (Baby not Included). Happy Quilting!!

Thanks to Madeline for being such a perfect little model and thanks to her mom for being willing to let me take pictures of her beautiful little girl.

Melissa Corry

The Backpack

Hi! I’m Tiffany from Tiny Seamstress Designs! I’m so excited to be sharing my ideas here with you on the Moda Bake Shop. This is a great backpack for all of your grade school children and can be altered to fit younger children as well.

I used the Lily and Will collection by Bunny Hill Designs to make this backpack, they have color ways for boys and girls…so fun!
  • 1 1/2 yard fabric for body
  • 1 1/2 yard fabric for lining
  • 2 fat quarters for ties (they do not have to be the same print)
  • fusible fleece
  • 2 Magnetic snaps

Using body (outside) fabric cut:
  • (2) 17″ by 15″ pieces (front and back)
  • (2) 17″ by 6″ pieces (sides)
  • (1) 15″ by 6″ piece (base)
  • (1) 15″ by 9″ piece (flap)
  • (2) 3 1/2″ by 26″ pieces (straps)
  • Apply fusible fleece to the wrong sides of each body piece.

Using lining (inside) fabric cut:

  • (2) 17″ by 15″ pieces (front and back)
  • (2) 17″ by 6″ pieces (sides)
  • (1) 15″ by 6″ piece (base)
  • (1) 15″ by 9″ piece (flap)
  • (2) 26″ by 3 1/2″ pieces (straps)
  • (1) 9″ by 3″ piece (handle)
  • (2) 6″ by 5″ pieces (pencil pocket)
  • (2) 15″ by 10″ pieces (pocket)
  • Apply fusible fleece to wrong side of one pocket piece.
Using 2 Fat Quarters cut:
  • (4) 22″ by 3″ strips
  • (4) 19″ by 3″ strips
Your cut pieces will look like this:


1. Pencil Pocket: Sew both pieces right sides together, leaving 2″ opening to turn. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch across top of pocket.

2. Pocket: With both pieces right sides together, sew across top. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch top of pocket. See picture below.
3. Measure 5 1/2″ from top center of back lining piece and sew pencil pocket in place across bottom and down both sides. Sew pencil slots 3/4″ apart as shown. Line larger pocket up with base of back lining piece and pin in place. Measure 5″ from each side and stitch from top to bottom, forming 3 pockets as shown below.
4. Place one body strap piece and one lining strap piece right sides together, sew down both long edges, leaving ends open. Turn right sides out, press and top stitch down both long edges. Repeat with other strap pieces.

5. Fold small handle piece in half and press. Unfold and lay right side down. Fold left side to center and press. Fold right side to center and press. Bring both folds together and sew down edges.

6. Measure 3″ from the right top edge of back body piece and sew top of strap in place. Measure 3″ from the left top edge of back body piece and sew top of other strap in place. Repeat with each strap on the bottom of body piece. Sew handle ends to top edge of bag as shown.

7. Next you’re going to make four ties from the fat quarter pieces. Pin two tie pieces of the same length right sides together and stitch around three edges leaving one end open. Turn right sides out, press and top stitch. Repeat with the rest of strap pieces until you have four ties as shown.
8. On the base of front body piece measure from one side over 3″ and sew short tie piece in place. Repeat on opposite side with other short tie piece as shown below.

9. On top of body flap piece, measure from one side over 3″ and pin long tie in place from top to bottom. Top stitch tie all the way down on each side, stopping 1″ from bottom of flap. Repeat with other long tie as shown below.

10. Place body flap and lining flap right sides together and pin, making sure your ties are tucked in. Stitch down both sides and across the bottom, leaving top open. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch edges and across the top of ties.

11. Center flap on the top of back body piece as shown below and stitch together across raw edges as shown below.
12. This part is optional. Find top center of each body side piece and measure each way 1 1/2″ and apply magnetic snap as shown below. This will allow the backpack to be a little more secure and shrink down a little.
13. With right sides together line body base piece up with base of front body and sew across edge. Line back body up with opposite side of body base piece and sew across edge.

14. With right sides together sew long edge of side body piece to side of front body piece. Sew opposite long edge of side body piece to the side of back body piece. Sew end of base to end of side piece. Repeat on the opposite side of the bag. See picture below.

15. Repeat steps 13 and 14 with lining pieces, leaving a 4″ opening in the base to turn later.

16. Place body inside of lining with right sides together and pin around top as shown below.

17. Stitch around top edge. Turn bag right sides out through 4″ opening, press and top stitch around top edge. Top stitch or hand stitch 4″ opening closed.

Your backpack is complete and ready for school! 🙂

Visit my blog for a coordinating back to school project and other fun patterns!

When finished, your backpack will measure about 16″ tall by 14″ wide by 5″ deep.
This bag is designed for a child approximately 4’8″ and taller. If your child is smaller than this you can cut all of your body and side pieces to measure 15″ tall for a better fit. Adjust straps as needed.