Bird Love

Hey Everyone! I am Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville. I am so happy to bring to you all another amazing Moda Bake Shop Quilt! 

I was inspired by my wonderful Mother-in-Law who loves birds! I designed and made this for her! I hope that you all will fall in love with it as much as I have! 

1 layer cake Spirit by Lila Tueller
2 charm packs Spirit by Lila Tueller
3 7/8 y 11434-13 (background- blue)
2 7/8 y 11435-13 (thick border-dark blue)
2 1/4 y 11436-16 (thin border-white)
5/8 y 11435-15 (roof-brown)
7 y 11436-18 (backing)
3/4 y 11430-13 (binding)

I am not a big fan of applique … mostly because I am afraid of it, so I try to patchwork as much as I can. If you have any questions about the instructions, PLEASE let me know and I will help out.
Making the Bird Block: (Total needed: 9)

I have labeled each piece so that it may be easier to understand. In the parentheses is how many you will need to make the total 9 blocks.

*Please watch for your pattern lines. If you want them to all match up right please cut your pieces accordingly! I had to redo quite a few because of this reason!*

 A1: 4 (36) pieces of background fabric 1¾”x1¾” square 
A2: 3 (27) pieces of main bird fabric 1¾”x1¾” square  

A3: 4 (36) piece of wing bird fabric 1¾”x1¾” square 

B: 2 (18) pieces of background fabric 4 ¼”x1 ¾” rectangle

 C: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 5 ½”x4 ¼” rectangle

  D: 1 (9) piece background fabric 3”x3” square

E1: 10 (90) pieces of main bird fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

 E2: 8 (72) pieces of background fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

E3: 1 (9) piece of bird beak fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

E4: 3 (27) pieces of bird wing fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

 F1: 2 (18) pieces of bird leg fabric 1¾”x1 3/8” rectangle

  F2: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 1 ¾”x1 3/8” rectangle

G: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 3”x1 ¾” rectangle

 H: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 8”x 1 ¾” rectangle

 I: 2 (18) pieces of main bird fabric 6 ¾”x1 ¾” rectangle


After you cut out all of your fabric, you can now combine your “E” pieces.
Combine 3 of your main bird fabrics with 3 of your bird wing fabric. Then combine all of your background pieces with the remaining pieces. 

*Instead of cutting your squares into triangles, you can leave the squares intact and sew ¼” from the middle (after marking a line). I did mine this way so that I could have my patterns line up*

To make assembly easier, I layout all of my pieces to make the bird.

To make sure you can put your bird together easily and line up so you don’t have to do any tricky stitching, I sew my pieces together in a particular order.
As you can tell from the picture, I layout all of my 9 block pieces so I can do all the blocks at one time. This makes it go by faster. 

*I found that I had to constantly check my pattern to make sure all my pieces lined up correctly. I did more seam ripping in this quilt than any other that I have made*

Making the House Block:  (Total needed: 9)

This block is easier than the bird block. I have labeled each piece as well. In the parentheses is how many you will need to make the total 9 blocks.


A1: 1 (9) piece background fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle 


 A2: 1 (9) piece house roof fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle

 B1: 1 (9) piece background fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle 

B2: 1 (9) piece house roof fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle

*Make sure to cut carefully if you want your fabric patterns to line up!*


C: 2 (18) pieces of background fabric 6 3/8”x1¾” rectangle

D: 2 (18) pieces of background fabric 3 3/8”x1 3/8” rectangle 


E: 1 (9) piece of brown fabric 2 1/8”x1 3/8” rectangle 


F: 2 (18) pieces main house fabric 5½”x3 3/8” rectangle 


G: 2 (18) pieces main house fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square



H: 1 (9) piece of brown fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square  


 I: 4 (36) pieces of main house fabric 1 ¼”x1 ¼” square 

* This piece is so tiny, you can’t see the fabric pattern well, so don’t worry about the fabric pattern*

I find it easier to piece it in a particular order.

To assemble the rest of the quilt: (Cut and sew the following)
  1.Cut out (18) 10” squares for the background fabric. (Once you have trimmed up your house and bird blocks you will need to trim these down to match).

2)   2.Cut (2) 60”x2½” strips of white fabric.

3)   3.Cut (2) 65”x2½” strips of white fabric.

4)   4.Cut (2) 75”x2½” strips of white fabric.

5)   5.Cut (2) 79”x2½” strips of white fabric.

6)   6.Cut (2) 79”x 7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric.

7)   7.Cut (2) 93”x7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric.

8)   8.Sew together (2) 13 – 5” squares (charm).

9)   9.Sew together (2) 15 -5” squares (charm).
*You will need to cut down some of your extra layer cake pieces*
Assemble bird, house and plain blocks together: 

Sew the 60”x2½” strips of white fabric to the top and bottom of the quilt, followed by the 65”x2½” strips of white fabric to the sides:

Sew the (2) 13 – 5” squares (charm) to the top and bottom of the quilt followed by the (2) 15 -5” squares (charm) to the sides of the quilt:

Sew the 2 – 75”x2½” strips of white fabric to the top and bottom of the quilt followed by the 2 – 79”x2½” strips of white fabric to the sides of the quilt:

Finish off the quilt top by sewing the 2 – 79”x 7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric to the top and bottom of the quilt and the 2 – 93”x7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric to the sides of the quilt top:

Baste, pin, quilt and bind as desired.
Once finished, you will have an approximate 93”x93” quilt. Perfect for a queen size bed!

If you have enjoyed this quilt and tutorial feel free to see what else I am up to with my family at my blog! 

Crystal Hendrix

Get Framed

Hello all! It’s Crystal Hendrix over at Hendrixville. I am so happy to bring you a fun combination of quilts! I am always trying to come up with fun new things to do with charm packs and layer cakes. Then one day this idea popped into my head! Nice, easy, and a fun project!


2 layer cakes, Spirit by Lila Tueller
1 3/8 yd Spirit 11436 16 (white with colored poka dots)
3/4 yd Spirit 11436 16 (brown, for binding)
8 yd Spirit 11430 12 (for backing)

Mini Framed:
2 1/4 yd white snuggles (for strips and backing)
3/8 yd 11430 11 (for binding)

***You will use leftover fabric from the Framed quilt to make this quilt. (Go to the cutting instructions for the Framed quilt to see what to do with the Layer Cakes)


Mini Framed Baby Quilt
Cut the following strips from the snuggles:

2 – 2.5” x 5”
2 – 2.5” x 9”
2 –  2.5” x 13.25”
2 –  2.5” x 17.25”
2 – 4” x 25.625″ (25 5/8”)
2 – 4” x 32.625” (32 5/8″)

***Make sure that you pin a lot throughout the process. You will need a total of 9 pieces of layer cake to make this quilt. Cut 20 pieces into – 2 5/8” x 2 5/8” squares.  This takes 3 layer cake pieces, but I would try to get a variety to work with.
Take a 5”x 5” square and sew the 2 ½” x5” strips to two sides. Press and then sew the 2 ½” x 9” strips to the opposite sides. Press. 

*** I liked to press the seams toward the white snuggles because it made the fabric pop more once the other strips were sewn on.

Next, you will want to sew a variety of mini squares together to make: Each one is 2 5/8″ by 2 5/8″ (mini charm).
2 – 4 mini charms
2 – 6 mini charms

***Make sure you are using a ¼” seam allowance.
Lay your mini charm square rows around your quilt top, this way you can get a nice feel of how it will look.

Sew one 4 mini charm row to the top (follow the direction of the white snuggles seams, sew this to the shorter white snuggles row) and sew the last to the bottom. Press and sew the remaining mini charms rows to the opposite sides.

Now sew the 2 – 2 ½” x 13 1/4” snuggles to the top and bottom. Press and sew the 2 – 2 ½” x 17 1/4” snuggles to the opposite sides.

We will do the exact same thing as the mini charms, but will use a combination of a 4 5/8″x 4 5/8″ (Square A) square and a 4 3/4″x 4 3/4″ (Square B) square for these rows. When you sew them together, I line them up like such:
A + B + A + B: Top row
B + A + B + A: Bottom row
B + A + B + A + B + A: Left side row
A + B + A + B + A + B : Right side row

Now we will take the remaining strips and sew and press as before.

***At this stage, if you are not satisfied with the size of the baby quilt, feel free to add more rows on.
Baste, quilt and bind your baby quilt as desired.
Framed Quilt:
Cut the following from the border fabric:

2 – 2 ½” x 10”
2 – 2 ½” x 14”
2 – 2 ½” x 23”
2 – 2 ½” x 27”
2 – 2 ½” x 44 7/8”
2 – 2 ½” x 48 7/8”
2 – 2 ½” x 57 5/8”
2 – 2 ½” x 61 5/8”
2 – 2 ½” x 79 1/4”
2 – 2 ½” x 83 1/4”

***The easiest way is to cut out 12 – 2 ½” strips from the fabric.

You will be using 2 layer cakes. Select 7 squares from the second layer cake and set aside. You will use the rest of the second layer cake and the first for this quilt. You will need a total of 49 layer cakes (10″x10″ square) and 64 charms (5″x5″ square).
Out of the charms, you will need to make need to make the following rows:

2 rows of 3 – 5″x5″ squares
2 rows of 5 – 5″x5″ squares
2 rows 11 – 4 7/8″x 4/78″ squares
2 rows 13 – 4 7/8″x 4/78″ squares

Out of the layer cakes you will need to make the following rows:

2 rows of  3 – 9 3/8″ x 9 3/8″squares
2 rows of  5 – 9 3/8″ x 9 3/8″squares
2 rows of 7- 9 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ squares
2 rows of  9 –  9 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ squares

Once you have these, we basically follow the same step for the Mini Framed Quilt.

***Make sure that you use a ¼” seam allowance.

****The easiest way to line up your rows is to pin the rows and strips to the quilt top.
Take a layer cake (10″x10″ square), sew the 2 ½” x 10” to the top and bottom (creating the top and bottom). Press and then sew the 2 ½” x 14” border to the opposite sides.

Now we will take the 2 rows of 3 – 5″x5″ squares and sew one to the top and then bottom. Press and then sew the 2 rows of 5 – 5″x5″ squares to the opposite sides.

Take the quilt top and sew the 2 ½” x 23” border to the top and bottom. Press and then sew the 2 ½” x 27” border to the opposite sides.

Now we will take the 2 rows of  3 – 9 3/8″ x 9 3/8″squares and sew one to the top and then bottom. Press and then sew the 2 rows of  5 – 9 3/8″ x 9 3/8″squares to the opposite sides.

Take the quilt top and sew the 2 ½” x 44 7/8” border to the top and bottom. Press and then sew the 2 ½” x 48 7/8” border to the opposite sides.

Now we will take the 2 rows 11 – 4 7/8″x 4/78″ squares and sew one to the top and then bottom. Press and then sew the 2 rows 13 – 4 7/8″x 4/78″ squares to the opposite sides.

Take the quilt top and sew the 2 ½” x 57 5/8” border to the top and bottom. Press and then sew the 2 ½” x 61 5/8” border to the opposite sides.

Now we will take the 2 rows of 7- 9 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ squares and sew one to the top and then bottom. Press and then sew the 2 rows of 9- 9 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ squares to the opposite sides.

Take the quilt top and sew the 2 ½” x 79 1/4” border to the top and bottom. Press and then sew the 2 – 2 ½” x 83 1/4” border to the opposite sides.

Baste, quilt and bind as desired. 

Two beautiful quilts!
Framed Quilt is 83″x83″ and the Mini Framed Quilt is 32 1/2″x 33 1/2″

Crystal Hendrix

Sassy Steps Throw Quilt

Hi there! I’m Molly Culley, and I’m thrilled to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you.  This is a really quick and easy quilt to piece that has quite a striking visual impact!  I blog at  Come pay me a visit when you get a chance!

4 Print Charm Packs (I used “Spirit” by Lila Tueller)
2 White Bella Solid Charm Packs
4 yards Backing (I used SKU 11430-11)
3/4 yard Binding (I used SKU 11435-15)

 1.  Choose two print charms; cut in half. Separate into pairs, then sew each pair together in the middle, using a 1/4″ seam. 

2.  Choose a coordinating print charm and a solid charm.

3. We’ll be making half-square triangles with the print and solid.  Draw a line from one corner to the other of the solid charm, with the print underneath.  Draw a line 1/4 inch on either side of the center line.  These will be your sewing lines.

4.  Sew on your sewing lines.  I like to prepare several charms for sewing, so I can chain piece. 

5.  Align your ruler on the middle diagonal line of your square, and cut.  Open up each piece and press to the darker fabric.

6.  The segments of the block so far:

7.  Layout your block:  Place the  half-square triangle pieces across from each other in the block, with the “tips” of the print triangles touching in the center.  Place your dual-color pieces across from one another in the empty spaces, making sure the alignment is the same on each side (like prints are in the middle together, aligned either horizontally or vertically).

8.  Sewing the block together: Making sure that you are working from the middle of the block outward, sew the top two pieces, then the bottom two pieces together.  Press toward the dual colored section of the block as this will allow for nesting of seams.  Align the two halves of the block together in the middle, matching seams, and sew together.  Press.  You will need to make 24 blocks with the dual colored segments of the block in a horizontal orientation, and 25 blocks in a vertical orientation.  The half-square triangle segments stay constant in their alignment throughout all the blocks.  It will help in your layout process if you keep the two block “types” separated.

9.  Trimming your blocks:  Trim each block to 9″ square. 

10.  Laying out your blocks:  I started my layout with a vertically aligned block, then alternated each block in the row (vertical, horizontal, vertical…).  Remember the half-square triangles determine the layout…make sure they are all aligned the right way!   Lay out all the blocks into a pleasing arrangement of 7 blocks down by 7 blocks across.  Step back and admire (and make sure you have a nice balance of colors, of course!)

11.  Assemble your quilt top:  Begin sewing the blocks in a row together.  Once each row is sewn, begin sewing the rows together, matching seams together so all your blocks meet perfectly!  Press well. 

12.  Backing:  Press your backing fabric very well.  When a project has a pieced backing, I lay my fabric out, then lay my quilt top on top of it.  I don’t like my seam to be right in the middle, so I offset the cut a bit, then sew the two pieces together. 

13.  Binding:  I used 6-2.5″ strips for my binding.  Feel free to cut a narrower binding if you like.

14. Layer your backing, batting and top, then baste.  Quilt and bind as desired.  I quilted mine with an all-over meander.  Wash, dry, and pull a cozy, crinkly thing of beauty out of your dryer!!! 

One super-cozy throw that is just the right size (57″ x 57″) for snuggling with!  Enjoy!!!  I’d love to see your finished creations; please email them to me!  Thanks to Moda for a wonderful, creative place to share!

Molly Culley

Weekend Spirit: Kitchen Ensemble

One layer cake of Spirit by Lila Tueller plus a few embellishments and you can change the whole look of your kitchen in one weekend.
I am particularly inspired by Spirit.
I love the line!
I feel like it is some of the best fabric for a project in the month of August.
 The summer transition time, school’s starting, gardens are readying for harvest, and picnics are winding down.
It isn’t quite fall yet and it’s not the 4th of July.
I know that with all the Zucchinis and tomatoes ripening that I will be spending loads of time in the kitchen. What better way to spend it then surrounded by the colors I love….
 I used one layer cake, some yardage and embellishments to make this ensemble.
3/4 yard Spirit sku #11436-15 chocolate dots
1 yard Spirit sku #11434-18 green
1 yard warm n natural batting
coordinating thread
grommet and setting tool (optional)
2 hand towels for embellishing PRE-WASHED 
various buttons for embellishing
1 yard 1/2″ dark brown rick rack or coordinating color rick rack
Flip -N-Cut Magic Template Set 3 and Set 4
Flip-N-Cut Magic Templates are definitely magic. I am amazed at the shear number of combinations you can make with these sets. There are 4 sets total and I have used 2 of them in this tutorial. This project requires a bit of preparation and planning. Plan ahead as to which fabrics will be your table runner and potholder backgrounds. The rest of the layer cake can be used for appliques.
Here’s how you use them. First, start by tracing the first half of the template. Mark the center so that you can align the template when you flip it.
Now it’s flipped and the cross is aligned with the center and I continue to trace the flower shape.
Here’s the flower.
Easy as that.
Now you need to trace your desired pieces for each project.
Fuse them the fabric and cut them out.
Applique templates used here:
{4} #3A squared flowers
{1} #6A larger squared flower
{1} #6A larger squared flower
{2} 1″ circle
{1} #7A spike flower
Table runner:
{2} #6B flowers
{1} #7B flower
{1} #3B
{2} 1″ circles
Dish Towel
Take the plain pre-washed dish towel and lay your applique pieces out in a pleasing manner.
Audition some rick rack and a flower.
Or multiple small flowers
Cut the rick rack about 9″.
Sew to the front and center of the towel with a coordinating thread. Make sure that you wrap the rick rack to the back and catch the edge while sewing to secure it.
Fuse your flowers and buttonhole stitch them in place with threads that coordinate.
Add buttons to the flower centers.
Here are the finished towels.
Ingredients for 1 potholder:
2 layer cake squares
10″ square of insulbrite
flower appliques ready for fusing
50″ binding
Audition your flower appliques.
Iron appliques to the top fabric.
Layer the backing right side down, insulbrite, and then the top fabric right side up.
Buttonhole stitch through ALL layers of the potholder.
Stitch 1/4″ echo quilting or quilt as desired.
Square up potholder to 9″.
Sew on binding using your favorite technique.
Grommets should be added when entire potholder is finished.
Here’s a view of the back. Where the quilting is very prominent.
Table Runner
Choose 3 layer cake squares,set side by side and audition flower appliques.
Buttonhole stitch the flowers to the layer cake square before you sew the squares together.
Cut 2 pieces coordinating rick rack to 11″.
Sew the layer cake squares together and press seams open.
Sew the rick rack to the top, covering the seam of the layer cake squares as shown.
Your runner should measure about 10″ X 29″
Layer with batting and backing at least 14″ X 32″.
Quilt as desired…echo quilting or meander.
Using the 3A template, align the template with the corner of the runner.
Trace the semi circle to serve as a guide for rounding the corners.
Cut to the line.
Repeat for other 3 corners.
Here is the runner before binding.
Make 90″ bias binding.
Attach binding and it’s done!
Here’s a recap of all the awesome kitchen items you can make with your layer cake. Potholders, hand towels and a table runner. Be creative, make a plastic bag holder or toaster cover. The possibilities are endless.

Visit my blog for the bonus tutorial for the Weekend Oven Mitt.

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me. You will find more of my tutorials and tips on my blog,

Oopsie the Octopus

G’day all! So nice to be here with you, all the way from Australia, on the Moda Bake Shop! My name is Melanie Hurlston of Melly and Me and I would love you to all meet my newest friend, “Oopsie” the octopus. Oopsie is made from the stunning new “Spirit” range by Lila Tueller which is soon to be released. Don’t stop at just one – a jelly roll would make a whole family of these friendly sea creatures!

If you would like to see more of my fun pattern designs or locate an online seller in your part of the world, please visit my blog. For wholesale trade inquiries (we distribute to all countries) please email me at

1 Jelly Roll of “Spirit” by Lila Tueller.

A small scrap of wool felt in white and pink.
White, pink and dark brown 6 strand embroidery floss to match.
Good quality polyester toy fill.
A small piece of fusible web.
Strong polyester sewing thread.
Stuffing tools (I like to use a wooden skewer and paint brush).
Optional: Yo-Yo (Suffolk Puff) maker to make 3/4″ yo-yos.

Download the Printer Friendly PDF at the bottom of the post. Print your templates and cut out all pattern pieces on the line.
Select 9 of your fabric strips to create your “Oopsie.” The 9th fabric needs to have a lot of contrast with the other 8 to create suckers (yo-yo’s) that really stand out. I chose to use the white spot on top of solid color prints for this purpose. Four of your body strips will create the body and the other four will create the 8 legs.

Once you are happy with your fabric selection, place the folded strips (other than your 9th strip) on your cutting board and trim off the selvage and fold. You only need 1/2 of each strip for this project.

Take the four strips that are intended for the body, and using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the strips together in order.

Until you have a pieced panel that looks like the following.

Fold your fabric panel in half, right sides together, so that all of the seams meet evenly. Now pin your body template to one half of the panel and cut the shape out.

Repeat with the second half of your folded panel so that you have four body pieces as per the following image.

Take two of your body pieces and sew them together along one side edge only, right sides together. I recommend that you always use polyester thread and a small stitch (approx 1 – 1 1/2) on your sewing machine for extra strength of seams. Repeat with your remaining two body pieces.

Now open out your body front and body back pieces. Place them on top of each other, right sides together, ensuring that all seams meet. Pin in place.

Sew the body front and body back together along both side edges, however this time please leave a 1 1/2″ gap in one side edge for turning and stuffing. Turn right side out and put aside for now.

Take one of your leg fabric strips and fold it evenly in half, right sides together. Trace the leg template twice onto this folded strip. This will be a tight fit but make sure there is some seam allowance at both raw edges.

Please ensure that you transfer the gap markings and pin the fabric together to secure. Do not cut out as these legs will be sewn on the marked line.

Using a small stitch on your sewing machine sew the legs together along the marked lines, leaving the gaps as marked. Cut the legs out approx 1/8″ outside the sewn line. Clip curves.

Repeat with your remaining 3 leg strips. Turn all of your legs right side out.

Take one of your legs and position the end opening so that the seams are now on top of each other. If desired please tack these edges together.

Keeping the leg opening in this position, pin or tack the leg to the bottom raw edge of your body. Please ensure that the top seam of the leg (without turning gap) is facing the right side of the body.

Alternating the print, pin all of the legs to your body in the same manner. 2 legs should fit side by side within each of the 4 body panels.

Using your sewing machine, tack all of the legs onto the body approx 1/8″ outside the raw edges. Now turn your body inside out. Position the leg inside the body evenly so that the top edges are flat.

Take two lengths of one of your body strips (no need to cut accurately as long as they are minimum 4″ in length), sew together along the length and press. Pin your body base template onto this and cut out the circle.

Fold the circle in half (seams together) and finger press so that you can easily see the quarter points.

Place your base right side down over the body opening and match one quarter point up with one of your 4 body seams. Pin in place and than continue this with each quarter.

Now also pin in place between each quarter. At this point I recommend tacking but this is optional.

Using a small stitch on your sewing machine, sew the base into the body. This stitching will secure the legs between the body and base seams. It is a good idea to sew slowly and rotate the body as you go to avoid puckering.

You will now have your completed body looking something like this.

Using a turning tool, turn Oopsie right side out through the gap in the body.

Stuff Oopsie’s body firmly with good quality toy fill. If you want to create a great circular shape then it is a necessity to stuff very firmly. If you have used polyester thread and small machine stitches then do not be fearful to keep stuffing until it will take no more.

Sinking your knots, ladder stitch the opening closed with 2 strands of polyester thread (if you are unsure of how to ladder stitch and sink knots then please visit my blog and check out the “Tips & Tricks Tuesday Tutorials”). You may want to stuff a little more as you sew to avoid a dimple in Oopsie.

Turn Oopise upside down and then start to stuff the legs firmly, using the gap in the bottom of the leg.

Once all the legs are stuffed sufficiently, ladder stitch the openings closed.

Iron some fusible web to your scraps of white and pink wool felt. Trace the eye template twice to the paper side of your white wool felt and trace your cheek template twice to the paper side of your pink wool felt.

Cut the shapes out on the traced lines, peel the backing paper away from the fusible web, and position the eyes and cheeks onto Oopsie. Iron into place. I recommend that you use a medium iron or cover the shapes with fabric when ironing to avoid the felt melting.

Using 2 stands of white embroidery floss, blanket stitch the eyes into place.

Mark the mouth circle onto the face and then using the same white floss, satin stitch the mouth in place.

Mark the pupil positions and then create the pupil with a french/colonial knot using 6 strand brown embroidery floss.

Blanket stitch the cheeks in place with 2 stands of pink embroidery floss and then backstitch around your mouth with the same thread.

Using a yo-yo (Suffolk Puff) maker or by hand (please look up a tutorial if unsure), create 12 x 3/4″ yo-yos out of your 9th fabric strip.

Using sewing pins, try different arrangements with four of the yo-yo’s on Oopsie’s body until you are pleased.

Also pin a yo-yo onto each of Oopsie’s tentacles.

Using 2 stands of polyester thread, ladder stitch all of the yo-yos into place on Oopsie.

And voila! You have your very own Oopsie to love!

This pattern makes 1 “Oopsie” however a jelly roll will be sufficient to make a whole gang of these little cuties!


Lattice Garden Shower Curtain

1 Layer Cake – featured Eden by Lila Tueller
1 Jelly Roll in Bella Solid Snow
1 yard of coordinating fabric
1 yard of Fusible Interfacing (Pellon SF101)
2 1/4 yard of 120″ wide muslin (a queen size flat sheet would also work great) for lining
2 pkgs Dritz Extra-Large Eyelet Kits (#660-65) – Size 7/16″ (1.1cm) – need 12 eyelets
Decorative Shower Curtain Hooks (pkg of 12)

All seam allowances are 1/4″

CUTTING the Layer Cake… 
A Layer Cake comes packaged with 42 squares so you will need to cut two additional 10″ squares from the coordinating yardage to make a total of 44 squares.
Select 8 of the squares and cut them in half DIAGONALLY.
Select 1 of the squares and cut in half diagonally and then in half again the opposite way diagonally. You should end up with four triangles from one layer cake square.

CUTTING the Jelly Roll…
Cut 88 – 10″ strips x 2 1/2″.
Cut 44 – 2 1/2″ squares.
Take 9 of the 2 1/2″ squares and cut them in half DIAGONALLY creating 18 triangles.
Take 1 of the newly created triangles and cut it in half to create 2 smaller triangles.

CUTTING the coordinating yardage…
Cut 2 – 6 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric).

CUTTING the Fusible Interfacing…
Cut 5 – 6 1/2″ x WOF.

Layout your squares, triangles and sashings on point so you have 4 full Layer Cake squares down and 5 1/2 Layer Cake squares across. 

 Sew the layer cake rows together and the sashing rows together 

 Then sew all the rows together

 This is what you should end up with once all your layer cake rows and sashing rows are sewn together.

 Take the two 6 1/2″ strips cut from your coordinating fabric and sew the short ends together to create one long strip.  Sew the long 6 1/2″ strip to the top of your pieced shower curtain.  Press.

 With the fusible side facing the wrong side of the curtain top, iron on the fusible interfacing.  You will need to overlap the short ends just slightly to cover the entire length of the curtain top. Trim off any excess interfacing.  This will help reinforce and make the top sturdy when you add the large eyelet grommets.

 Place the 120″ muslin or queen flat sheet right side up on the floor and secure to the floor with safety pins or tape.  Lay your shower curtain face down on top of the muslin or sheet and pin along all four edges to hold in place.  Carefully trim the excess fabric or sheet around the shower curtain.  Sew a 1/4″ seam around all four sides leaving only a 4″ opening at the top of the curtain.  Flip right side out. Press.  Top Stitch with an 1/8″ seam across the top of the shower curtain to close opening and to finish the edge.

From the top of your shower curtain, place 12 small marks evenly across the top of the shower curtain 1 1/2″ down from the top.  The two end marks will be 5 1/2″ from either edge and the rest of the marks will be 7″ apart.
Following the instructions on the X-large eyelet kit, apply 12 eyelet/grommets to the marked spots.

Add a plastic shower curtain liner to the backside help keep the curtain from getting wet.

Hang on your decorative shower hooks and enjoy!   

Approx. 88″ x 72″ Shower Curtain

Angela’s Diaper Bag

Hi, my name is Melissa Mortenson and I’m very excited to share the tutorial for this fun diaper bag! It is made from 1 charm pack and 1 layer cake… that’s it! No other yardage required … just some interfacing and fusible fleece! I made this for a friend, Angela, thus the name.

I hope you enjoy it! I loved making it. Stop by my blog the polkadot chair and say hi!

1 Charm Pack- I used Santorini by Lila Tueller
1 Layer Cake
Fusible Fleece
Timtex/Peltex (fusible)
Heavy Weight Fusible Interfacing (I used fuse-a-shade)
Wide ribbon

1 pkg fabric lamination sheets- I used Heat n’ Bond Iron on Vinyl Matte. It comes in a package and is sold at the fabric store next to the Heat n’ Bond products.

1 hand towel
1/4″ wide elastic

This bag uses 1 layer cake and 1 charm pack. You will use almost the entire package of both. So to begin it is VERY important that you lay out all of your pieces. I think it’s easiest to open the package and put “similar” prints and colors together. It helps with sorting.

First lay out the pieces for the front and back of the bag.

These are charm pieces. (5″ pre-cut squares)

You will need 8 uncut charms for the front and 8 for the back

You will then need 4 additional charms for the top border.

Cut these pieces in half so that you have 8 2.5×5″ pieces.

Stitch together bag front and back pieces.

Set aside. You are done with the charm pieces

*note : I have an embroidery machine. So I decided to add a monogram to the front. If you do this, do it after the pieces are stitched but before you complete any other steps.

Next the layer cake pieces. Hold on this one’s a biggie!

Put piles by color or pattern. You will have several that you have 2 of the same pattern but different colors, you will also have several that are exactly the same. Match those up. Put in piles.

You will need:
2 matching/coordinating layer cake (LC) pieces for the side panels
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for side panel lining
1 LC piece for side panel & side lining border
2 matching/coordinating LC for the outer pockets
2 matching/coordinating for the LC outer pockets lining
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for the bottom of the bag (outside bottom)
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for the inside bottom of bag
4 LC pieces for front and back lining
1 or 2 LC piece for front and back lining border (up to you if you want the same pattern on all the border- I used 2 different pieces)
12 LC pieces for inside pockets (I just used a variety of pieces for this, none of them were the same)
2 matching LC pieces for bag divider side 1
2 matching LC pieces for bag divider side 2

Okay now you are going to cut some of your Layer Cake Pieces. SAVE ALL of your scraps. We will use some of them later. (note: in this photo the pieces look to be different lengths, they are not, they are both 10″ long, they just are laid out and not sewn yet that is why they look different)

The side panel of the bags are 8” wide.
Cut the following to 8” wide (do NOT cut the other edge, leave it at 10”)

2 side panels
2 side linings
1 side panel border
1 side panel border lining

Next Cut the side panel border piece to:
8” x 2.5″- you need 4

Cut 2 side pockets to:
Cut 2 side pocket linings to

Now for bag lining pieces:

Cut front and back lining border- to do this, Cut 1 layer cake piece into
4 pieces each 10”x 2.5” (you can use 2 different patterns if you like, that is what I did)

Now you are ready to start sewing!

Start with the lining:

Sew front lining piece (uncut layer piece) to lining border piece (10×2.5) Press seam up.
Sew 2nd front lining piece to lining border piece. Press seam down.
Matching seams sew 2 lining pieces together. (you will end up with a piece that is approx. 19.5 wide x 12.25 tall)
Repeat for back lining pieces & borders.

Due to seam allowance differences you need to trim the bag front piece (made out of charms earlier) and the lining piece to the same size.

Match centers and lay bag front over bag front lining. Trim excess off bag lining so it is the same size as bag front.

Repeat for back lining and bag back

Sew side lining pieces (8×10) to side lining borders (2.5×8)

Sew 2 layer cake pieces together to make bag lining bottom.

Next cut heavy weight fusible interfacing the same size as ALL lining pieces. Iron on. Set lining pieces aside.

you should have:

1 bag front lining

2 side panel linings

1 bag back lining

1 bag bottom lining
Next move to the outer bag pieces:

Sew 2 uncut layer cake pieces together to form Bottom of bag.

Cut a piece of fusible fleece the same size as the pieces and iron on to the following pieces:
Bag Front
Bag Back
2 side panels
2 pockets (8×8) do NOT put fusible fleece on the pocket lining pieces.
Bottom of Bag

Make the outer pockets:

Baste a 8” piece of piping to the top pocket
Pin pocket lining piece to pocket right sides together

With fusible fleece facing up…stitch pocket to lining on the SAME stitching line you used to baste the piping on.

Turn right side out and press.

Place pocket on top of side panel. Match edges and baste pocket to side panel

Sew bag front to side panel
Sew same side panel to bag back
Sew 2nd side panel to bag back
Sew bag front to 2nd side panel
(photo shows bag front, 1 side panel and bag back)

PRESS seams so that you get crisp edges.

You will get something that looks like this:

Next sew bag bottom on. Sew 2 long sides first stopping ¼” from the edges. Then sew short sides.

This will complete the outside of the bag.

Set aside

Next inside pockets.
Repeat the following steps for inside pockets for front & back of bag

Sew 3 pocket pieces together. (uncut layer pieces)
Press seams
Sew 3 pocket lining pieces together
(photo shows pocket lining side)

Sew inside pocket pieces to pocket lining pieces at top (right sides together)
Press seam open. Turn right side out.

Measuring down ½” from the top of the pocket sew a casing for elastic.
(photo shows pocket side)

Cut a piece of elastic 19.5”. Thread though casing. (Adjust elastic if necessary so that pocket lays flat when pinned to bag lining.) Stitch elastic securely at both sides.

Lay pocket onto bag lining

Match side seams centers and bottom.

Form a pleat in the bottom of each pocket so that the top and bottom are the same width

Baste bottom to hold pleats in place. Baste sides.

Making sure to back stitch several times, sew down each panel to divide pocket into 3 separate compartments.

Sew lining front to side lining

sew side lining to lining back
sew lining back to 2nd side lining
sew 2nd side lining to front lining
Press seams open very well.

Sew lining bottom into lining.

Make handles:

You will need 8 scraps of layer cake (these are the pieces you saved from cutting earlier). Each piece should be 2×10

Sew 2 pieces together at short seam. Do this so you have 4 pieces 2”x 19.75

Press seams open

Apply heavy weight fusible interfacing to 2 of the handle pieces.

Sew 1 handle piece (with out interfacing) to one with interfacing. Sewing along one long side. Press seam open. Press raw edge of handle piece under ¼” on both pieces.

Fold in half (wrong sides together) and top stitch down both of the long sides of the handles.

Assemble the bag

Cut a piece of fusible peltex to fit inside of the bottom of the of the bag.

Pin & sew handle to front and back of bag. Sew over handle several times since this is a “stressed” area of the bag. Lining them up with the seam of the 5” squares

Pin & sew ribbon (cut it long, you can trim it later) to front and back centers of bag

On BOTH bag lining piece and bag pieces press under top seam ¼”

Insert peltex into bottom of bag

Put bag lining into bag. Match top seams and pin well. If for some reason the seams do not match up… adjust the side seams so that they do.

Very SLOWLY and carefully… top stitch bag to bag lining. Being careful not to catch the handles or the ribbon in the seams.

Put your iron INSIDE the sewn bag. Iron the inside bottom of the bag to fuse the peltex to bag and bag lining.

Make the divider:

Measure the width of your bag. Mine was 17.5. Cut a piece of peltex 17.5×9.5.

Take your 4 matching LC pieces. Sew 2 pieces together forming divider front and and 2 pieces to form back.

Sew divider front piece to divider back (right sides together) piece along 3 sides. (leaving short side open). Press well.

Slide peltex into divider.

Fold raw edge of divider in. Press. Top stitch around all 4 sides of divider.

Place divider inside finished bag. By hand, whip stitch divider into place at the top and bottom corners.

Optional Changing pad: You have enough pieces left over so why not make one? 🙂

Cut 1 layer cake piece into 4 pieces, each 2.5 x 10

Sew to edges of 2 LC pieces.

Sew 2 pieces together and Press .

Laminate using iron on lamination sheets according to package directions.

Place laminated/pieced fabric on top of hand towel. Cut hand towel to size of laminated fabric.

Attach 2 loops of ¼” elastic to top of changing pad. Stitch down and back stitch… (these pop off easily if not stitched down properly)

Put right sides together and stitch changing pad to towel. Starting and stopping between elastic pieces. Turn inside out.
Press again (you will need the pressing piece from the lamination to be able to iron it- otherwise you will melt the laminate).

Whip stitch opening closed.

1 Diaper Bag

Summer Swing Skirt

This swingy summer skirt is made with a one-size fits most design, but can easily be adapted to plus sized by adding a square or made smaller by removing a square from the top layer of the skirt. It’s just that easy! Look for easy size changes in italics.

1 Santorini layer cake
1 Santorini Jelly Roll
1/2 yard of any Santorini fabric
1 package of 1 inch no roll elastic

This skirt is made in three layers. The first layer is 5 pieces of your layer cake. Seam allowance is 1/4 inch through out this project.
Pam: Just grab any five!
Elizabeth: Uh, no. Of course you don’t grab “any five”. You need to stare at all of them for awhile…stripes are slimming, but you can’t have nothing but stripes…hey this one with the green I think is my favorite so it has to be on the front…gotta get the combination of colors just right…so keep agonizing until Pam shoots you a dirty look and tells you she could have the skirt halfway finished by now.

Stitch your five layer cake pieces together forming a tube. This is the top tier of your skirt.

Unroll your jelly roll strips and gaze at them a bit. Doesn’t Moda do a nice job with these fabrics?

At this point you should try it on and make sure it’s not too big or too small. Add on a square to make it a plus sized skirt. Subtract a square or a portion of a square to make it smaller.

Ruthlessly cut them in half at the fold.

Pam: Randomly pull strips from the pile and stitch them together.

Elizabeth: OK, this time you try to be totally random…so you get into the spirit of just grabbing prints, until Pam tells you that you’re about to have a big blob of green in the middle of your skirt. So I guess you sort of randomly pull strips. They all go together quite well, and it’s fun to see combinations of prints you might not have thought of trying, but avoid blobs of one color. At all costs.

You will need 50 strips for this tier. For every 1 inch you added to the top tier, add 1 strip. (one layer cake square equals 10 strips) For every inch you removed, remove 1 strip.

Press seams in one direction.

Once your strips are all stitched together, stitch into a tube.

Trim to length. For our ‘maxi’ skirt we trimmed to 19 inches. Total length of the skirt is 38 inches. This is the perfect time to measure a skirt you love pick your own perfect length. Most purchased tiered skirts are between 34 and 36 inches long, as a guideline. For an average length skirt cut at 18 inches.

Gather your tier using your ruffler attachment, or your favorite method of gathering.

Ours was gathered using the ruffler foot set at 6 and stitch length set at 4.3. Yours may vary.

Pin your ruffled strip to your top tier. Stitch together.

Woo hoo , it looks like a skirt now doesn’t it!
Randomly select 20 layer cake pieces from your remaining pile for your last tier. For every 5 strips you added to your second tier, add 2 layer cakes pieces. For every 5 strips you removed subtract 2 layer cake pieces. Its not critical that you add or remove at this point. Its going to be ruffly regardless.

Gather at the same settings used before. Attach gathered layer cake tier to strip tier.

How cute is this?

Hem your skirt by turning up bottom tier 1/4 inch, then again 1/4 inch, for a nice small hem. For a more casual look, stitch 1/4 inch from the pinked edge and let it get that frayed look. Its summer fun, go for it!

From your 1/2 yard of waistband fabric cut (2) 2 3/4 inch strips. Stitch short ends together for one long strip and trim to 48 inches OR the measurement of the top of your skirt, if you made any alterations.

Elizabeth: Pam’s measurements and instructions are exactly right–but be sure to use a very accurate seam allowance when you stitch the waistband to the skirt and when you top stitch the top of the waistband make sure you stitch very close to the edge…because it might be a tiny bit difficult to thread the elastic through the casing. And if you tell Pam that the waistband should be cut maybe a little wider she’ll tell you “no”. If you don’t think you want to be that precise, you could cut your waistband pieces maybe 1/8″ wider, and Pam probably won’t find out.

Stitch into a tube leaving a 1 inch opening in the seam as shown. This will be the opening to insert your elastic. Fold right sides together and press.

Pin your waistband to the right side of your skirt with the opening facing away from the skirt.

Top stitch at the fold very close to the edge. This gives a nice professional look to your garment.

Insert elastic into your waistband and adjust to fit comfortably.

Stitch elastic ends securly everlapping for a flat finish.

Whip stitch the casing closed.

Pam: I used contrasting thread so you could see the stitching!

Elizabeth: Psst! Just between you and me? She used green thread because that’s what was already in the needle.

Your swing skirt is done! Go on, celebrate!

One very swingy summer skirt!

Summer fun brought to you by Elizabeth and Pam!

Doll Quilt

Doll Quilt

13″ X 19″

Soiree Honey Bun
1 Fat Quarter backing fabric
Batting at least 20 inches X 15 inches

Layout your honey bun strips and choose 18.

Cross cut the strips at 6 inches. Flip the strip and trim to 5 1/2 inches X 1 1/2 inches.

I pin everything….I have better block construction this way. So I recommend pinning your strips as shown.

Sew and Iron….check your layout if necessary.

Next, match up the pairs and sew down one side.

Continue joining pairs until you a strip.

It may be necessary to trim your “block”. Next take the Bella solid and cut a strip 4 1/2 inches the width of fabric.

Trim to 19 inches. Sew a strip to each side of the block.

The doll quilt top is ready to be quilted.

Once you layer and quilt…it may look like this:

I chose a simple built in stitch on my machine and just sewed rows. It’s very simple but effective and breaks the monotony of stippling.

Here is my binding…I used 2 honey bun strips for single fold binding. I mitered the strips as shown.

Start near the bottom middle…just because…and I leave a “tail” of about 3-4 inches.

When I reach a corner I stop sewing and flip the ‘loose’ end of the binding strip straight up and then fold it back down on itself.

Continue to sew a 1/4 inch seam.

Joining the binding is a bit tricky. I also miter this junction. Here’s how:

Overlap the 2 loose binding strips and trim so that it overlaps the width of your binding. My overlap is 1 1/2 inches.

Trim the excess fabric.

Now the tricky part. You must pin the loose portion of the binding strip correctly. I pick the strips up and hold them at a 90 degree angle to each other and pin.

Sew on the diagonal and if you feel it is necessary you could actually draw the sewing line to be more accurate. You can see my fabric slid to the side but I had to let go of the fabric to snap the picture…normally I am controlling both sides as it passes through the needle. After that is sewn, trim to 1/4 seam allowance. and press open the seam.

Sew the ‘loose’ binding down. Once the binding is sewn on, then I trip the excess batting and border.

Turn binding to back of quilt and hand slip stitch the perimeter. I use binding clips ALL the time.

Again, that is my method of binding. I know there are several different ways that this could be done. I have just mentioned one in this recipe.

One doll quilt… I sincerely hope that this will inspire all of you to quilt today! Vickie @ Mid-ohio knitter.

Simple Pincushion #2

Honey bun Soiree`
6 inch square backing fabric
Upholstery Thread
Sewing Thread
Polyfil or Walnut shells
5.5 inch OmniGrid ruler


Choose 5 fabric strips and cut cross-wise 1.5 X 6.5 inches
I use my rotary cutting mat for accuracy.
Sew your strips together in a please arrangement using the picture as your guide. Next take your backing fabric and lay the 5.5 inch square ruler on it as shown…this is the guide I used to mark my corners.
Draw a pencil line on the wrong side of the fabric.

Layer the pieces right sides together and pin.Sew a 1/4 inch seam allowance around sides and pencil corners. I use a 1/4 inch foot and line up my pressure foot with the pencil line. Make sure you leave a 1.5 inch opening for turning. I back stitch with my machine at the beginning and end for strength.

Here is the piece after it sewn and the corners trimmed.

Turn right side out.

Stuff with polyfil or lizard litter.

Whip stitch opening closed with silk thread. Using upholstery thread, I usually knot where a button or yo-yo will be.

And pinching the fabric together…I take several ‘bites’ through the center of the cushion. I knot again once I have a pleasing arrangement.

Sew on a button or yo-yo and you’re done.

A lovely simple pincushion….