Cushion Couture

You know what they say about great minds, right?  So I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised when we found out that we were both planning pillow tutorials for the Moda Bake Shop … using the same fabric line!  We decided to join forces and create one mega tutorial.  The Jaybirdquilts / Quilt Dad collaboration was born, and we were able to inspire one another to put forth the best collection of pillow patterns possible.  Think of it like chocolate & peanut butter… great alone… but even better together!!

So today we have tutorials for you for pillows.  Lots and lots (and lots) of pillows.  Why?  Because we LOVE pillows!  They’re relatively quick and easy to make, they let you integrate your favorite quilting fabrics into your home decor, they’re functional and, let’s face it, they’re FUN!  And what could be more fun that pillows made from the awesome debut line of fabric for the design team at Sweetwater, Authentic?

The best part is that these tutorials are for pillow covers — slipcovers, if you will.  They’re easy to change out with your decor, so imagine sets of these covers in your favorite seasonal or holiday fabrics… or even just a new set for any reason!

The other great thing is just how versatile these tutorials are.  You can make multiple versions from the same tutorial…. & with different fabric selections and placement each can look totally different!  We encourage you to mix & match.  Most of all, have fun.  We’d love to see your finished pillows.  Don’t forget to post them to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr pool!

here are all 6 pillows.
we numbered them to make your life a bit easier!

Pillows # 1 & 2
Layer Cake
Jelly Roll
Dessert Roll
Muslin for backings – Yardage will depend on the width of the muslin you use.  For each pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″.  For this project I used a premium muslin in a creamy color.


Pillows # 3-6
Layer Cake
Assorted Authentic yardage for backings – Yardage will depend on what fabric you choose.
-For the largest pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″.  I used one yard of cream authentic canvas for this. {The canvas is 58″ wide}
-For the 18″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 22″ x 18.5″.  I used 2/3 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.

-For the 16″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 20″ x 16.5″.  I used 1/2 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.
-For the 14″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 18″ x 14.5″.  I used 1/2 a yard of  a cream print from authentic for this.

Pillows 1 & 2

The two pillows I created are each a whopping 27″ square. I was shopping for pillow forms (for another project) when I came across these huge 27″ pillows. I immediately knew I wanted to make something large. My inspiration came from my children, who love to lounge around on the floor while watching TV, and the idea for these “playroom pillows” was born. I knew right away that Authentic by Sweetwater was the perfect fabric fit for this project.
I think these pillows would be great for anything from a nursery to a kids’ room to a teen hangout to a college dorm.  Oh yeah, and it should go without saying that they’d be great for grown-up decor, too!  Customize them with the fabrics that fit your needs best. I’d love to see what you make!

John – Quilt Dad

PILLOW #1 – Modern Medallion Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

The first design is my modern take on a more traditional medallion-style quilt. I love the idea of building a pattern from the center, border by border and bit by bit. I updated the design a bit to include some of my favorite “building blocks” and give it a fresh look. While each component is fairly simple, the overall effect of the finished pillow looks complex.
1. Center square
To begin, select two jelly roll strips: one of a featured print and one of a background print. The background print should also be one that is included in the dessert roll. Pull out the dessert roll strip that matches the background print jelly roll strip.
You should now have 2 jelly roll strips and a dessert roll strip.
From the feature print jelly roll strip, cut two 2″ squares and a 2″ x 5″ rectangle.
From the background print jelly roll strip, cut four 2″ squares.
Arrange as follows:
Sew each row together, and then sew the three rows together into a square block.
From the dessert roll strip, cut two 4.5″ squares. Then cut each square in half on the diagonal, resulting in four triangles.
Arrange the four triangles as follows, and then sew the triangles to the block. I sew the triangles to two opposing sides first and press before attaching the other two.
When all four triangles are attached, square the center block up to 6.5″.
2. First border
Select three jelly roll strips. From each, cut three rectangles 2.5″ x 3.5″ each. You should have 12 total rectangles — four of each print.
Arrange the rectangles as follows:
Sew each set of three rectangles together and press, but do not attach them to the center block yet.
Select two more jelly roll strips. From each, cut 18 1.5″ squares.
Arrange the 1.5″ squares into four nine-patch blocks. Sew the nine-patch blocks together.
You now have all of your components to assemble your first border: a top row containing two of the nine-patch blocks on its ends; a middle row with your center block in the middle position; and a bottom row that mirrors the top. Sew each row together, and then sew the rows together. Your pillow top should now measure 12.5″ square.
3. Second border
Your second border will be fairly simple. Select two jelly roll strips of the same print. From each, cut a 2.5″ x 12.5″ strip and a 2.5″ x 16.5″ strip, for a total of four pieces.
Attach the 12.5″ strips to the top and bottom of your pillow cover and press. Then attach the 16.5″ strips to the left and right sides of your pillow cover and press.
Your pillow cover should now measure 16.5″ square.
4. Third border – Flying Geese
The third border is comprised of 40 flying geese units. Each flying geese unit measures 2.5″ x 4.5″.
Cut 40 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. These will be the prints that will be featured in your flying geese, so keep that in mind when selecting your prints. From the Authentic line, I selected the jelly roll strips featuring words, newsprint, and numbers.
Cut 80 2.5″ squares from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. I restricted mine to three different prints and, unlike the rectangles we just cut, these are meant to be the background against which your featured prints can pop. I selected subtle & small prints in the soft green hues.
Assemble your 40 flying geese units. I use a method similar to the one described here.
Arrange the flying geese around your pillow cover as seen in the photo of the pillow. Sew the 8 flying geese units that border the top of the pillow together, press, and attach to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 8 flying geese units that border the bottom of the pillow.
Sew the 12 flying geese units that border the left side of the pillow together, press, and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 12 flying geese units that border the right side of the pillow.
5. Fourth (and final) border
Your final border will be another fairly simple one. From a variety of your leftover jelly roll strip scraps, cut a total of 26 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles. Sew six of them together on the short ends, creating a long 2.5″ x 24.5″ strip. Attach it to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat with another six rectangles and attach to the bottom edge of the pillow.
Repeat with another seven rectangles and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Do it one more time with the final seven rectangles and attach it to the right edge of the pillow.
Your pillow cover now measures 28.5″ square. Trim it down to 27.5″ square.
6. Quilt the pillow top
I prefer for my pillow covers to be quilted. To do this, I cut a piece of batting 27.5″ square and spray basted my pillow cover to the batting. I then free-motion quilted the entire pillow cover with an all-over meandering pattern in a coordinated thread color. You do not need a backing layer for this quilted piece — it’s just fine with the batting exposed on the back.
7. Create the envelope back
Create an envelope back for your pillow using two pieces of backing fabric measuring 27.5″ x 32″ each. Fold each piece in half so that it measures 27.5″ x 16″ and press the fold. On the backing piece that will show the exposed fold, machine attach a binding strip made from a jelly roll strip that is 27.5″ in length.
8. Assemble the pillow
Layer the pieces with the pillow top face up first, then the backing piece with the binding next (aligning the raw edges to the top, left, and right edges of the pillow), and finally the other backing piece (aligning the raw edges to the bottom, left, and right edges of the pillow).
Pin around all four sides and sew all layers together with a 1/4″ seam. I like to go around the pillow twice for added reinforcement.
Turn the pillow inside out through the envelope backing and insert your pillow form.

PILLOW #2 – Offset Stars Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

This next pillow combines two of my favorite blocks: the half-square triangle and the wonky (or liberated, or maverick) star. I love the seemingly random appearance of the two stars, slightly offset, against the backdrop of classic triangles. By chain-piecing and employing liberated block-making techniques, this pillow cover came together quickly.
1. Make your HST’s.
To start select three dessert roll strips that will serve as the background for your pillow. As the background, these prints should be light & subtle. From the Authentic line, I selected three of the beige prints.
From each dessert roll strip, cut 11 3 7/8″ squares. You should have a total of 33 3 7/8″ squares. (Note: you only need 32, so one of these squares will be leftover when you assemble your HST’s.)
Select 8 layer cake squares. Unlike the dessert roll strips, these will serve as the featured fabrics of the pillow. They should contrast nicely with the background squares that you just cut.
From each layer cake square, cut four 3 7/8″ squares. You will have a total of 32 3 7/8″ squares.
Here’s a look at what you should have cut by now:
Using 32 of your background squares and 32 of your focus fabric squares, make 64 HST units. I use this tutorial. Your HST’s should finish at 3.5″ each.
2. Make your star units
From your layer cake & dessert roll, select two groupings of three prints to create your star units. Each grouping should contain a center print and a coordinating print for the star points (from the layer cake), and a contrasting / neutral print for the background (from the dessert roll).
Here is what you will need for each (quantities are per star):
  • for the star center: one 3.5″ square
  • for the star points: four 3.5″ squares, cut in half on the diagonal
  • for the background: eight 3.5″ squares
Assemble your wonky star units. I use the technique outlined in the tutorial found here (but with the measurements I specified above).
3. Lay out the units and assemble
Lay out the entire pillow top in an eye-pleasing way. Arrange all of the HST’s with the feature fabric and the background fabric aligned in the same direction. If you think about the layout as a grid, the star units will take the place of nine HST units in your design. You can see where I placed my offset stars in my design, but I encourage you to lay it out in a way that feels right to you.
Sew the pillow top together row by row. The pillow top should finish at 27.5″ square.
See above for instructions on quilting and backing your pillow cover.

I think of pillows as if they are mini quilts… they really do offer us the ability to experiment and push ourself to try something new.  At the same time… they don’t have to be complicated… or take a lot of fabric!  Simplicity was the inspiration for my pillows…. I like to change decor often… and having bold graphic pillows… really helps to do that!  I have lots of green in my house… so authentic was the perfect fabric choice!  I hope you enjoy these simple… yet bold tutorials… and that they inspire you to make some pillows!

julie – jaybirdquilts

PILLOW #3 – giant disappearing nine patch
{ just a giant version of this block }
Finished pillow size: 27″ square
1. Pick 9 layer cake squares and sew them into a 9 patch
2. Fold your nine patch in half and then in half again and use a large ruler to trim it down to 28″ square
3. Then open it up & slice down the middle in both directions
4. Rearrange your blocks like this… and sew them back together!
5. Quilt the 27.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  I did an all over loopy pattern for the quilting on this pillow.  Insert 27″ pillow form & you are done!
PILLOW #4 – half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square

1. Pick 4 layer cake squares – two dark & two light
2. Draw a diagonal line down the middle of the back of the light two
3. Sew a scant 1/4″ seam on either side.
4. Then cut on the line & press towards the dark.
5. Trim the 1/2 square triangle units to 9.5″
6. Sew the 4 together as shown.
7. Quilt the 18.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 22″ x 18.5″  Fold in half to be 11″ x 18.5″}  I did straight line quilting on this pillow to echo the bold triangles.  Insert 18″ pillow form!
PILLOW #3 – half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square 
#5 – rail fence

1. Select 4 layer cake squares
2. Cut the layer cake into 4 pieces 2.5″ wide
3. Repeat for the other 3 layer cake pieces
4. Sew them into a rail fence block
5. Repeat to make 3 more.
6. Trim them to 8.5″ square
7. Lay them out as shown above and sew together
8. Quilt the 16.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 20″ x 16.5″  Fold in half to be 10″ x 16.5″}  I did straight line quilting 1/4″ in from each “rail” on this pillow.  Insert 16″ pillow form!
PILLOW #5 – square in a square
Finished pillow size: 16″ square
1. Pick 3 layer cake squares.  I picked a color for the outside that had 2 of the same print in the layer cake… if your layer cake doesn’t have any duplicates just pick 2 prints that look similar.
2. Cut both of the light layer cake squares in half on the diagonal
3. Take two of the triangles and pin them to the dark layer cake square as shown above
4. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark
5. Trim excess fabric off
6. Repeat with the other two triangles and pin them as shown above
7. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark

8. Trim to 14.5″ square
9. Quilt the 14.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 18″ x 14.5″  Fold in half to be 9″ x 14.5″}  I quilted lots of straight lines on the outside triangles… and also quilted squares inside of squares on the black portion.  Insert 14″ pillow form!

6 amazing pillows!!
We hope you enjoy our ideas… and that we have inspired you to make some pillows!
john @ quilt dad

Simply Modern Quilts

Boy (Route 66) Quilt…
1 Moda Jelly Roll Basics in Milk
1 Authentic Jelly Roll by Sweetwater
3 1/4 yards of coordinating fabric for backing, binding and pillow case
1 1/2 yards of Pellon Wonder-under fusible web
Soy Soft by Luna Batting
coordinating thread
Route 66 templates (located at the end of the Printable Version below)

Girl (Eva Flower) Quilt…
1 Moda Jelly Roll Basics in Sugar
1 Eva Jelly Roll by Basic Grey
3 1/4 yards of coordinating fabric for backing, binding and pillow case
1 1/2 yards of Pellon Wonder-under fusible web
Soy Soft by Luna Batting
2 yards Trim Trends Jumbo Ric Rac (1 3/8″) in Light Pink
coodinating thread
Large and Small Eva flower templates (located at the end of the Printable Version below)

1. Sew 32 of the basic jelly roll strips together using a 1/4″ seam allowance creating a background fabric for your appliques.

HINT: When sewing your Jelly Roll strips together make sure your strips match up end to end so you don’t get a curve in your finished piece. As you are sewing match the very tops together… sew a little bit… make sure your needle is in the down position, then pull the strips so that the folds match with each other holding it in place while sewing to that point… then while your needle in the down position again on the fold… pull the strips again so that the bottom of the strips match up together holding it in place while you finish sewing to the bottom of the strips. Repeat for each strip until all 32 strips are sewn together.

2. Iron the seams down all going in the same direction.

3. Separate your Authentic or Eva (or any other collection you wish to use) into color groups. Set aside 1 Jelly Roll strip that you wish to use on your coordinating pillowcase.

Sew the strips together in groups. For example… sew all the blacks together then set that group aside. Then sew all your creams together and then set aside.

For the Route 66 quilt… I stitched 9 black strips together and 9 cream strips together
For the Eva Flower quilt… I stitched together 10 purple strips, 6 pink strips and 6 green strips
4. Iron your seams down in all the same direction on both color sets. Top stitch your seams down as shown below.

5. Print out the template you wish to use (route 66 or eva flower or your own design), tape the templates together and then layout on your background fabric to see placement.

6. Iron on Pellon Wonder-under or your favorite fusible web to the back side of the colored fabrics. (just enough to fit your applique templates for each color.)
7. Cut out the templates you wish to use and trace them UPSIDE DOWN to the back side of your fused fabric. Cut out the pieces. Shown are the black pieces for the Route 66 applique.

8. Remove the paper backing and fuse in place to your background fabric.

9. On the paper template, cut out all the black parts so you should now be left with only the white section of the template.

10. Trace the template UPSIDE DOWN to the back side of your fused cream fabric strips.

11. Iron the cream applique in place. If you are using the Eva template then you can use the images towards the end of the tutorial of the flower quilt as a guide.

12. Sandwich your backing fabric, batting and quilt top together and safety pin in place. Please note… the width of your backing fabric may be slightly shorter than the quilt top. This is okay. Just try to match them up as close as possible. You will trim all the sides down to match up once your quilting is done.
13. Machine applique your iron-on pieces down. This will also help create the quilted look on the back side of your quilt.
14. To complete the quilting of your quilt, top stitch the seams down on the basic jelly roll strips. I skipped over the appliqued pieces since there is stiching around each of the pieces when you machine appliqued those pieces down. Bind and your quilt is done.

You will need your coordinating backing fabric, 6 strips from your basic jelly roll, and the 1 strip you set aside from your other jelly roll.
1. From your coordinating backing fabric, cut 27″ x Width of fabric.

2. Just like you did with the background fabric for your quilt, sew 6 strips together to use as your pillowcase flange. Iron the seams down 3 seams in one direction and 2 in the opposite direction.

3. Fold the sewn strips in half on the middle seam with wrong sides together. Press.

4. Top stitch the seams down using a 1/8″ seam giving the flange a quilted look.

5. Fold and Iron the coordinating Jelly Roll Strip in half lengthwise.

6. Match up all the raw edges of your coordinating pillowcase fabric, then the coodinating jelly roll strip, then the basic jelly roll strip flange.

7. Pin and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish the edge with a zig zag stitch so you don’t have raw edges.

8. Open the seam so that the coordinating jelly roll strip folds down towards the pillowcase fabric. Top stitch the seam down on the coordinating jelly roll strip to keep the strip staying down.

9. If you wish to add applique to your pillowcase, do this now. I placed my stop and go appliques 4″ from the bottom and 4″ from the side.

10. Fold the pillow case in half with the raw edges matching up and the flange edges matching up. With a 1/4″ seam sew the raw edges down WRONG sides together.

11. Flip the pillowcase wrong side out and press all seams. Stitch again on the raw edges now with a 1/2″ seam. You are now creating a French seam. This will enclose all your raw edges so you will not have any visible threads.

Flip the pillowcase right side out and WA-LA a new pillow case to match your new quilt!

Simply Modern Boy and Girl Quilts for your special little ones.

Designed by Angela Yosten

Sweetwater Flower Table Runner

This adorable runner was designed by the family trio best known as “Sweetwater” Their first line of fabric from Moda is called au-then-tic and is hitting shelves now! click here to download the pattern.

1/2 yd backing
(3) 12″ squares flower backgrounds (can be cut from FQs)
(3) FQs for flowers
(3) charm squares for flower centers
15×38 batting
5×15 fusible web

1. Cut 3 flower backgrounds to 12″ x 12″
2. Line the 12″ x 12″ square on your grid of your mat board and cut off a 3″ x 3″ triangle.

3. Repeat for all 4 corners.

4. With RST sew the pieces together along one edge only. Repeat to add third octagon.

5. Cut a slit in the center piece. This will be used later to turn the piece right side out.

6. Layer batting, backing right side up and top piece right side down.

7. Sew through all layers with a 1/4″ seam.

8. Trim extra backing and batting. Be sure to clip in at inside corners.

9. Turn through 3″ slit and press out octagons by hand. Then press with an iron and set aside.

10. Fold your flower FQ in half and pin. Trace flower template. Rotate it 180 to continue tracing.

11. Make a small slip through one layer. Sew on drawn line all the way around. Turn through slit.

12. Repeat 2 more times. Your flowers should look like this.

13. Draw a 4″ square on your fusible web. Mark in 1″ from each corner and draw lines. You are making mini versions of your flower backgrounds. Repeat 2 more times and iron onto 3 charm squares.

14. Iron onto flower center and stitch in place. I used a small zig zag with matching thread. Repeat for other 2 flowers.

15. Pin flower onto runner base. A quilting pattern is provided on the original pattern. You can draw it on or just go for it like I did!

16. One attached flower! Repeat for other 2.

17. The original pattern does not call for it but I added a bit more quilting my stitching around the entire topper 1/4″ in.

that is it!

one super cute table runner

the lovely ladies over @ sweetwater are having a contest!

We know you have some type of fabric in your stash that would be perfect for this pattern. To enter the contest, make the table runner in your choice of fabric, photograph it and send us the picture (e-mail to We think it would be lots of fun to see what it would look like in different colors and patterns. If you show it on your blog, give us your web address and we will link from our site.

You have until the end of August to enter. My mom told me this pattern was so easy, even I could make it. That may be stretching it a bit, but she whipped it out in just a couple of hours. If you are a beginner, this would be perfect for you.

One random winner will receive one of our authentic Jelly Rolls. We can’t wait to see what you come up with! Remember, you have until August 31 to enter.

so go visit their blog and enter!

and don’t forget to upload it to the moda bake shop flickr group!
I think this runner works as a perfect display for jelly rolls! pictured – Mill House Inn by Fig Tree Quilts, Authentic by Sweetwater, Rouenneries by French General

Authentic Toddler Wear

– 2 Dessert Rolls – if using Authentic by Sweetwater
{you can make both outfits using 1 dessert roll if the roll contains 2 or more of the same print of 3 different styles.}
– White Button Shirt in the size needed for your girl and/or boy
– fusible web
– coordinating thread

– rhinestone button for girls dress
– coordinating rick rak for girls dress

PLEASE NOTE… All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. RST stands for right sides together.
Select 8 dessert roll strips (5″ strips) to create the skirt and belt.
1 strip for the belt
6 strips for the 3 tiered ruffle {2 of each print for each tier}
1 strip for the ruffle extension {this fabric will not show when done.}
From the girls button-up shirt, square up the bottom by cutting straight across from side seam to side seam. If your shirt is already straight across the bottom, you don’t need to do this step. Make sure the shirt is buttoned before cutting so you get a straight cut.
Once you have trimmed the bottom of your shirt, measure across the bottom from side seam to side seam. Write this number down… This is your shirt measurement. Now multiply this number by two… This is your skirt measurement. For example… If your shirt measures 13″ across, then the ruffled skirt measurement is 26″. Set the shirt aside.

From the skirt extension fabric strip, cut two pieces that measure 1″ larger than the shirt measurement you took in the previous step. For example… if your shirt measured 13″ from side seam to side seam, then you will want to cut two pieces that measure 14″ each.
Now, take these two cut pieces and cut them lengthwise in half so that you now have 4 pieces that are 2 1/2″ wide.
Sew two of the cut pieces RST on both of the short ends. Zig-zag stitch the raw ends. Repeat this step for the other two cut pieces. You should now have two tubes that measure the same as the skirt measurement. Set the extender pieces aside.
Now, from the 3 prints for your ruffled skirt, determine which print you want for the top layer, middle and bottom layers. You should have two strips of the same print for each layer.

From the top layer print, cut your two strips down to 3 1/2″ wide X the width of the fabric.
The middle and the bottom layers will stay 5″ wide… no cutting involved on these layers.

Taking the two strips you just cut down to 3 1/2″ place two of the short ends RST, stitch 1/2″ seam and zig-zag stitch the raw edge. DO NOT stitch the other short side together yet. Repeat this step for the middle and the bottom layers.

Fold and press the bottom pinked edge of the top layer 1/4″ to the wrong side of the fabric. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers.

Sew a 1/8″ stitch from the pinked edge to create the bottom hem of the ruffle. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers.

On the other long, raw edge, sew a basting stitch to form the ruffle. You can do this however you like. I prefer to use my machine and just make my stitch width as large as it will go. To begin, I start off with a backstitch to hold one side in place. When I get to the other end, DO NOT backstitch. You need to leave a little extra thread so you can pull the top thread GENTLY to create the ruffle. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers.

You will make your ruffle the length of your skirt measurement plus 1″. For example… if your skirt measurement is 26″, then your ruffle should be 27″. Once you have your ruffle to the desired length, tie the threads in a knot at the end where you were pulling to create your ruffle so your ruffle does not stretch back out while creating the side seam. Match up the two raw short ends RST and sew 1/2″ seam and then zig-zag the raw edge to finish it off. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers. You should now have three ruffled skirt layers.

Assembling the skirt…
Match one of the extender pieces and the top ruffle and pin the raw edges toghether as shown. The right sides of the extender piece and the ruffle should both be facing out. First, match the side seams together when pinning to make sure you get an acurate amount of ruffle all around the skirt. Then work your way around the skirt making sure you have it pinned evenly. Stitch 1/4″ seam allowance around the top of the skirt to hold the top ruffle and extender piece in place.

Flip the top ruffle wrong side up to expose the first extender layer.

Slip the middle layer ruffle over the first extender piece with RST. Pin in place.

Next, slip the 2nd extender piece over the 2nd ruffle creating a sandwich effect. Matching the side seams with the first extender and the middle ruffle, pin the second extender piece in place with the right side facing the wrong side of the middle ruffle. Sew through the three layers a 1/2″ seam from the raw edge where pinned. Zig-zag the raw edge to finish it off.

Flip the middle ruffle right side out exposing the first extender. Pull the second extender down so it is parallel to the middle layer and flip the top layer wrong side up out of the way so you can top stitch the seam in place on the first extender layer. See the pictures below.

This picture below show how the top layer should now lay against the first extender and the middle layer should be laying against the second extender.

Flip the ruffled layers wrong side out and keep the second extender pulled up with the right side facing out. Pin the bottom ruffle RST to the second extender, first matching up the side seams and then working your way around the skirt. Stitch a 1/2″ seam around from the raw pinned edge and then zig-zag to finish off the raw edge.

As done with the middle layer, flip the top and middle ruffles wrong side up exposing the second layer and the bottom ruffle. Make sure the bottom seam is facing up towards the top of the skirt and top stitch 1/8″ from the bottom ruffle to hold the seam in place.

This picture shows how the layers should be laying when sewing the top stitch on the second extender piece.

We will now assemble the skirt to the button-up shirt.

Matching up the side seams of the shirt and the skirt, pin the shirt to the skirt RST. Make sure the button up shirt is buttoned up all the way to help ensure that the shirt stays aligned with the skirt. Sew a 1/2″ seam all the way around from the raw edge and then zig-zag the edge for a nice clean edge.

Flip the dress Right side out and top stitch the seam down 1/8″ from the skirt ruffle. The stitching should be on the white shirt bottom.

Creating the belt…
Take the last piece of dessert roll that was set aside and fold and press both of the short edges of the strip towards the wrong side of the fabric.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press.

Unfold the strip and press the two long sides in toward the middle fold. Press.

Fold the strip in half again lengthwise, concealing the raw edges all the way around the strip. Press.

Stitch a 1/8″ seam around the four sides of the strip to finish off the belt. Set the belt aside.

From the extra dessert roll fabrics, create your applique flower or any other applique favorite.

Using your preferred method of applique, stitch around the applique pieces and stitch the ric-rak stem in place.

Attaching the belt….
Pin the belt in place aligning the bottom of the shirt and the bottom of the belt. Leave about a 3 inch opening to be able to tie a knot or bow once the belt has been stitched on the dress. I offset my opening so the tie would be on the side. Make sure you leave the same amount of fabric dangling on both sides of the tie before stitching into place.

Stitch the belt into place on both sides of the belt. I simply followed the current stitch line that was on the belt which is approx. 1/8″ on either side. Be sure to backstitch on all the beginnings and ends of your stitching on the belt. Tie a knot or bow to finish the belt off.

Add a rhinestone button to the middle of the flower applique and YOU ARE DONE!

You now have one happy little girl! Add a coordinating tank top under the shirt dress, a pair of lace capri leggings, and slip-on shoes to complete the look.

Print out the ABCD font graphic shown or create your own. Pick out a fabric to use on three of the letters and another fabric for one of the letters. I chose to do AB and D in one fabric and the letter C in the other fabric. Apply the fusible web to the wrong side of your two fabric choices.

Cut out the letter templates and place the letters upside down on the backside of the fabric where the fusible paper is left. Trace around the letters with a pen and then cut on the traced lines to form your fabric letters.

Remove the paper backing and iron the letters in place. I wanted to give the shirt a more modern / retro look, so I placed the letters vertically on one side of the shirt starting at the shoulder then working its way down. The shirt I used had a mono-tone pin striping detail in it so I just aligned the letters along the lines of the shirt. You may need to use a straight edge to help you align your letters if your shirt is plain.

Once you have fused your letters in place, applique the letters on using your preferred method of stitching.

One handsome little boy in a cool modern shirt made especially by you! I like the long sleeved shirts and then just roll the sleeves up a couple times. Makes it very versitle for warmer and colder months.

Two Authentic Dessert Rolls will make two dresses and many appliqued shirts.
The skirt will adjust easily to any size toddler shirt. If you want to make the dress bigger, simply adjust the skirt measurement to fit the shirt size and add a couple more layers to the bottom to the appropriate length needed. Applique’s can easily be changed up to fit the childs personality or event.
Great for school wear and any other fun events!
Thanks and enjoy!
Angela Yosten