BOO! Table Runner

Em here from Em’s Scrapbag cookin’ up a little Halloween treat with the Boo Crew. A quick and easy table runner sure to scare up a little fun in your lair.

1 Boo Crew layer cake
¾ yard backing
Fat quarter for binding

Choose 24 of your layer cake squares. Arrange in sets of two.  (4 set for the Bs and 8 sets for the Os)
Choose one other 10″ square for spiders in Bs. Make a template from lightweight cardboard of a 6¼” circle.

For each O
Choose one of your 10″ squares and place the cardboard template on top and cut a generous ½” seam allowance around it. From the other 10″ cut a 8½” square.

For each B
Choose one of your 10″ squares and cut:
2 – 3½” squares
1 – 1½” x 6½” rectangles
From the other 10″ square cut
6 – 1½” squares
4 – 1½” x 6½” rectangles

To make the Os run a gathering stitch ⅛” around the edge of each circle.
Next pull the gathering stitch until the circle begins to pop up.

Place the template inside the popped circle and pull the gathering stitches until it encases the template.

Using Best Press and/or steam press your circle to set edge around template.

Pop out your template and center on your 8½” square background.  Top stitch in place.

For your Bs
Using your 10″ spider square cut 8- 1½” circles.  A spool of thread works good for this.
With a needle and thread start on the wrong side of the fabric and begin a gather stitch.

Folding the fabric over as you go.
Pull tight to create your spider and tie off.  Repeat with remaining circles

Sew a 1½” x 6½” B rectangle to a 1½” x 6½” background rectangle.

Take the 3½” square and sew the 1½” squares on the diagonal on three of the corners. Trim seam allowance.

 Sew a yo yo spider in the center of this block.  Repeat with the other 3½” square, remaining 1½” squares and yo yo spider.

Sew these two blocks together.

Sew the two 1½” x 6½” rectangle unit to the side of this.

 Sew another 1½” x 6½” rectangle to the other side of your B.

Sew the remaining 1½” x 6½” rectangles to the top and bottom of your B.
Sew a B to two Os to create your Boo units.  Make 4.

From your scraps or remaining 10″ squares cut 4- 5″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles and 1- 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle. Sew these together with the smaller rectangle in the center. Sew this piece between two of the Boo units.

You can stop here to make a table mat or add the remaining Boo units on either end for a runner.

 Sandwich top with batting and backing and quilt as desired.  I quilted spiderwebs in mine.

22″ x 38″ runner

Emily Bailey

Spider Web Little Quilt

Hi. My name is Karen O’Connor and my husband, Kevin, and I own Red Rooster Quilts. Our quilt shop is locate in beautiful Dublin, Ohio home of the Memorial Golf Tournament and now playing the President’s Cup Golf Tournament. We have over 3500 bolts of fabric and 100+ samples on display. Please visit us when you are in town or shop on line at This is my first recipe on Moda Bake Shop and I am so excited! I love fall and Halloween and I think I have more quilts and decorations for those seasons than any other season. I hope you enjoy this little spider web quilt.

4 – The Boo Crew Mini Charm Packs by Sweetwater + 1 extra purple spider print 2″ square
1/4 yard of Moda Solid black #9900 99
1/4 yard of Boo Crew Tricky Orange #5512 21 for binding
3/4 yards of Boo Crew The Bash Green # 5510 13 for backing
1 craft size batting

1 – 2 1/2″ square Olfa ruler #QR2S
1 – Sewline Fabric Mechanical Pencil green
Best Press
Quilt Basting Spray by Sullivans
Aurifil thread

Open one mini charm pack at a time. You will need 36 of the charms. Cut each 2 1/2″ square in half on the diagonal. I like to carefully open the pack and leave them stacked neatly. I choose about 6 charms at a time to cut. You can choose however many you are comfortable with.

Sometimes the corners are not very well defined.  Just do your best to center the ruler and slice.  We will be trimming them up later so it’s not that critical that you get the exact center.

Layout your triangles like this.  It’s not critical that you put the same prints in the exact same spot as I did.  What does matter are the purples.  If you want your purples to be all the same in the center then you need to place the purple spiders in the same spots as I did.

Sew each pair of triangles together with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

I sewed mine just over 1/8″ of an inch. 

Press the seams towards the dark.  Lightly spray with Best Press.  I use this product because it helps keep the fabric from stretching.  And, I like the way my fabric feels while sewing with it.   
Square up each block to 2″  Using your 2 1/2″ square ruler, line the diagonal line up along the seam.  Trim two sides. 
 Flip the block around and line up the diagonal line on the seam and the cut edges on the 2″ lines.  Trim the other two sides.   

A perfect 2″ block!  Love it when that happens.

Continue to sew the triangles together and square them up to 2″.  Sew the blocks together into rows then sew the rows together to make this block:  Make 4 blocks total.

 Cutting the black:
      Cut 3 – 2″ strips. 
          Sub cut into 4 – 2″ x 9 1/2″ strips
                              2 – 2″ x 20″
                              2 – 2″ x 23″
Sew the 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip between two blocks.  Repeat for the other two blocks.

Sew one 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip to the 2″ purple block.  Then sew the other 2″ x 9 1/2″ to the other side.  Sew this strip to the blocks in the center.

Sew the 2″ x 20″ strip to each side.

Sew the 2″ x 23″ to the top and bottom. Spray the entire quilt top with Best Press and press.

Layer with your batting and backing.  I like to use the Sullivans quilt basting spay.  I lay my backing down, wrong side up and spray.  Then I fold my batting in half and lay the fold down in the center.  I smooth the half down that is on the backing.  Then I fold the other half over and smooth it down. Repeat with the top. 

I drew a diagonal line with the Sewline fabric mechanical pencil down the center of each color to make squares.  I sewed on the line with black thread.  You can see the quilting better on the back:

Binding:  I cut 3 strips 2 1/4″ x wof.  I prefer a little bit thinner binding.  Attach binding in method preferred. 

A kit is available on our web site that includes all the fabrics for the top, binding and backing for $34.99.  Backing may vary from the one used but it will be from the Boo Crew line.

Makes one little quilt ~23″ square.  It would be great as a center piece on your table with a basket of candy or a vase of flowers or with a candle.   Makes a great addition to your Halloween décor!

Karen O’Connor | Red Rooster Quilts

Wobbly Web Layer Cake Throw

The Boo Crew by Sweetwater is just too darn cute.  From the moment I saw it, I had to play with some.  I love the funny monsters, “ramen noodle” stripes, and muted ghastly colors.  It is perfect for some late October silliness and it will be available in stores next month so you can get an early start on Halloween! 

The monsters and I at Tops to Treasures love it! I think you might too.

  • 42,  10″ x 10″ squares
    • There are 42, 10″ x 10″ squares in one layer cake; however, some of these squares may not contrast well with your web fabric. To maximize contrast I chose not to use the pieces with black backgrounds.  There are 9 pieces of “The Boo Crew” that are mostly black.  Pull them out of your pile and set them aside.  Replace them:
      •  either Supplement your layer cake with 3, 1/3 yard cuts of a fabric that contrasts better. You will be able to cut 4, 10″ x 10″ squares from each 1/3 yard piece.
      • or by purchase 2 layer cakes and pull out just the pieces you like. (Check my blog for a companion project to use up the extra slices of cake.)
  • 2 1/2 yards fabric for web and outer border
    • I used #5510-11.  It is black with cream words all over it
  • 1/2 yard fabric for inner border
    • I used #5513-13.  It is a sick green with creepy little spiders crawling all over it.
  • 1 1/2 yard fabric for outer border
    • I used #5510-16.  It is just like my web fabric only with a cream background and colorful words.
  • 1/2yard fabric for spider applique
    • I used Bella black (#9900-199) however, how cool would it be to use something textured or soft.  I could totally get into a fuzzy spider on my quilt.
  • 2/3 yard fabric for binding
    • I used #5513-13.  Back to the green to echo my inner border.
  • 5 yards fabric for backing
    • Have I told you that I like purple?  I chose #5516-14.  This is an awesome lavender with cream polka dots on it.

Tools that will help you:

  • 1, 10″ x 10″ piece of cardboard, or stiff paper
    • I used the piece of cardboard that came with my layer cake.  An old shirt box would work too.
  • 1, Sharpie marker – fine point, bright color works best
  • 1, clear acrylic quilting ruler that is at least 11″ x  6″
  • rubbing alcohol or alcohol swabs
  • 1, blank sticky note.  (Really, one of those little pieces of paper with a sticky edge that you use to post notes in your office.)
  • 1/3 yard fusible web – only if you want to fuse your spider appliques.

    • 4 large white buttons – 1″ in diameter
    • 4 medium black buttons – 1/4″ in diameter or make them different sizes to create googly eyes
      • I used La Mode #20465 for my quilt.

    Cutting Directions:
    I recommend that you wait to cut your pieces until you need them, especially the inner border pieces.

    • From “web” fabric
      • 84, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles (for cross pieces)
        • cut 3, 11 1/4″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
        • sub-cut strips into 28, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles each
        • for a total of 84, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles
      • 16, 5″  x 10″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on short edges)
        • cut 2, 10″ x wof strips
        • sub-cut 8, 5 ” x 10″ rectangles from each strip
      •  4, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares ( for outer border corner stones)
      • 16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on long edges)
        • cut 2, 11″ x wof strips
        • sub-cut each strip into 8, 5″  x 11″ rectangles.
    • From inner border fabric
      • 7 wof strips (see Border section of directions)
    • From outer border fabric
      • 16, 5″ x 10″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on short edges)
        • cut 2, 10″ x wof strips
        • sub-cut 8, 5 ” x 10″ rectangles from each strip
      • 16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles (for outer border triangles on long edges)
        • cut 2, 11″ x wof strips
        • sub-cut each strip into 8, 5″ x 11″ rectangles.
    • From binding fabric
      • 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

    Sewing Directions:

    Wonky Cross Blocks
    This quilt is comprised of 42 wonky cross blocks.  21 lean one way (Right-Side-Up), and 21 lean the other (Upside-Down).

    All of the blocks need to be wonky in the same way so that the web illusion holds together when we are done.  Soooo, we need to create a wonky tool.  For some reason ruler manufacturers don’t make their rulers wonky…at least not on purpose.  Go figure.  Follow the steps outlined below to temporarily transform your ruler.
    Make cutting tool
    • Gather
      • sharpie
      • 10″ x 10″ square cardboard
      • clear acrylic quilting ruler
    • In order for the wonky crosses to create a web, the black bars have to meet when the blocks are put together.  This requires a modicum of precision….which we are going to accomplish by making a special wonky ruler.
    • Take the 10″ x 10″ square of cardboard
    • Mark the center of two, parallel sides.
    • Place an additional mark 1″ above the left side (A) and 1″ below the right side (B)
    • Draw a line from point A to point B
      Web tool

        • Place your quilting ruler on top of the cardboard so that the line from A to B is along the long edge of your ruler.  The ruler should completely cover one side of the cardboard.
      Web tool
        • Use your sharpie and a straight edge to trace an outline of the cardboard onto your ruler.
          • This line is going be your guild for placing the 10″ x 10″ squares of fabric when you make the web.  Pay close attention to how the paper fits within the lines as this is how your fabric will fit later.
      Web tool
          • Don’t freak out….sharpie can be used to mark acrylic rulers.  Honest.  It will not rub off on your fabric.  It will however, rub off when you apply a little alcohol to it.  If you make a mistake while you are drawing and want to redo the line dab a tiny bit of alcohol on it and rub.  Presto!  No more line.  Once you are happy with the lines you have drawn put the sharpie and the alcohol away.  You don’t want marker on your fabric or to accidentally erase the lines.

      Make blocks:

      • Gather:
        • 42, 10″ x 10″ squares
        • 84, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles
      • Divide
        • 10″ x 10″ squares into two stacks of 21 squares each.
        • 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangles into two stacks of 42 each.
        • Set one stack of squares and one stack of rectangles aside
      • 21 Right-Side-Up blocks
        • Gather one set of 21 squares and 42 rectangles.
        • Align a slice of cake under your new tool

        • Cut slice in half on the diagonal created by your tool.
        • Trim 1/4″ from each new edge.

        • Center 1, 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangle on smooth side of one half, right sides together.
        • Sew
        • Iron seam allowance toward rectangle.
        • Trim excess rectangle from edges.

        • Sew other half of layer cake slice to opposite side of the skinny rectangle.  Off set the pieces by 1/8″ in the direction of the shorter edge.  There should be a tiny 1/8″ wedge hanging over the edge of the short sides of the pieces.


        • Iron seam allowance toward the rectangle.  (This will help your web to appear to pop off of the background later.)
        • Trim your block back to 10″ x 10″ square if needed. 

        • Turn piece 90 degrees and repeat process
        • Aline with the tool and cut in half on the diagonal created by your tool.

        • Trim 1/4″ from each new edge.
        • Center a 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ rectangle on an smooth edge, right sides together.
        • Sew.
        • Iron towards rectangle
        • Trim Excess
        •  Sew other half on
          •  Offset the pieces by 1/8″ in the direction of the shorter edge. There should be a tiny 1/8″ wedge hanging over the edge of the short sides of the pieces.
          • The legs of the cross should fall on top of one another.  You can pin them in place if you want to make sure that they stay in a straight line.  However, this is not necessary.  If it is a little bit off it will just enhance the beautiful wonkiness of this block.
          • Iron seam allowance towards the rectangle
          • Trim block back to 10″ x 10″ square if needed.

          • Repeat process 20 times for 21 Right-Side-Up blocks.
        • 21 Upside-Down blocks.
          • Gather remaining set of 21 squares and 42 rectangles
          • Follow the directions for Right-Side-Up blocks only flip your ruler upside down and keep it that way.
          • This is a very UN-NATURAL way to use a ruler. Trust me, you will flip it back over. Mark the bottom of the ruler with a sticky note to help you keep your head in the game.
        My Photo Stream-57
          • Flipping the ruler upside down forces the angle to be a mirror image and allows the legs of the crosses to meet.  If you don’t do this your spiders will be wandering among a field of wonky crosses rather than walking on a wonderfully wonky web.
          • Confused?  At some point you are bound to step away from your project.  Phone call, bathroom break, car pool line,….something is sure to pull you away.  Before you start cutting again make sure that you have the ruler oriented correctly.  Check it by placing the ruler on top of the block you are working on.  The shape drawn on the ruler should match the shape in your block exactly.  If not turn the ruler over before you continue.

        Center of Quilt Top

        • Arrange the blocks in a 6 x 7 grid
          • At this point a design wall is helpful.  However, it is not necessary.  Any large flat surface will work.  Try your bed, floor, draperies or shower curtain.  They will do just fine.
          • Every other block is a mirror image block.  They should lean left, then right, then left, etc. across the quilt and down.
          • Arrange the blocks in a way that is pleasing to you….personally I go for random.  I don’t even look anymore.   I try to sew the rows together so that no two blocks have the same fabric (pattern or color) right next to each other.  Beyond that I leave it to the angels to arrange my quilt blocks.  This is supposed to be fun – worrying about where every block goes is not fun to me.  If it is to you knock yourself out.
          • Sew 7rows of 6 blocks
          • Iron seam allowances in the same direction each time so that they will snuggle when you go to sew the rows together.
            • Flip the row wrong side up.  Look at the blocks on the far right and left.
            • Iron the seam allowances towards the block that has leftward leaning piecing.
            • If you do this each time then all of your block seams will be irons so that they will snuggle nicely.
          • Sew columns together to make the center of the quilt.

        This quilt has two borders.  A straight forward inner border, and a pieced outer border.

        Seam allowances vary from quilter to quilter.  Your seams may be a bit bigger or a bit smaller than mine.  It all works out in the end.  However, because this quilt has a pieced outer border I want to make sure that it fits your quilt.

        Measure your quilt top as it is right now…without any borders.  It should measure 57 1/2″ x 67″.  

        Write it down here __________________________________.

        Skip down in the directions and make your outer border.

        Measure the length of your border pieces with out corner stones.  They should measure 60″  and  69 1/2″.   These are the raw measurements.  This is what it should actually measure when you apply a measuring tape to the fabric.

        Write it down here ___________________________________________.

        The difference between the size of your quilt without borders and the size it needs to be to fit the outer border is the width that your inner border needs to be.  This does not include seam allowances so “tay appention”.

        Imagine that every thing worked out perfectly (LOL  Mine didn’t.)

        • Width –
          • The width without borders measures 57 1/2″.
          • The length of the short pieces of the outer border are 60″
          • 60″ – 57.5″ = 2.5″ 
          • Divide by 2 so that you have the same amount of border on each side of the quilt and the  finished inner border for the short ends needs to be 1.25″
          • Add 1/2″ to allow for the seams
          • The inner border pieces for the width of this quilt need to be cut 1 3/4″ x wof.
        • Length –
          • The length without borders measures 67″
          • The length of the long pieces of outer border are 69 1/2″
          • 69.5″ – 67″ = 2.5″
          • Divide by 2 so that you have the same amount of border on each side of the quilt and the finished inner border for the long sides needs to be 1.25″ 
          • Add 1/2″ to allow for the seams
          • The inner border pieces for the length of this quilt needs to be cut 1 3/4″ x wof.

        Do the math for your quilt here:

        • Width –
          • The width of your quilt measures _________
          • The length of your short pieces of the outer border are ____________.
          • ___________ – ________ = ___________
          • divide your answer by 2 = ____________
          • + 1/2″ = ____________
          • cut 3 strips _________ x wof for the inner border on the short ends of your quilt.
        • Length –
          • The length of your quilt measures _________
          • The length of your long pieces of the outer border are _________________
          • ____________ – ________ = ___________
          • divide your answer by 2 = ____________
          • + 1/2″ = ____________
          • cut 4 strips _________ x wof for the inner border on the long sides of your quilt.

        Outer Border
        There are 5 different blocks in the outer border:

        • Corner Stones – the 4, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ square in the corners of the quilt
        • Half Rectangle Triangles (HRT) – like half square triangles these blocks are made of two triangles pieced together. These make a rectangle instead of a square.
          • Short HRT with black in the lower right  – right side up blocks
          • Short HRT with black in the lower left  – mirror image blocks
          • Long HRT with black in the lower right – right side up blocks
          • Long HRT with black in the lower left – mirror image blocks

        Make Special Ruler
        HRTs are tricky.  To make these we need to make another special ruler.

        •  Gather
          • 1, Sharpie marker – sharp point, bright color works best
          • 1, clear acrylic quilting ruler that is at least 11″ x 6″
          • rubbing alcohol or alcohol swabs 
        • Clean Wonky Cross guide lines from your ruler with rubbing alcohol.
        • Let dry while you print out the ruler templates from the PDF version of this pattern.
          • Take a minute to understand the template.
          • You will see a rectangle drawn with solid lines inside a rectangle drawn with dashed lines.
          • The solid lines represent the finished block.
          • The dashed lines represent the raw block.  These are the edges of your piece before you sew them together.  You could call them the cutting lines.
          • Notice that the diagonal line in the center of the finished block does NOT meet exactly in the corners.   It is close…but it is definitely NOT perfectly aligned.   This is correct – it allows for the HRT to come to a point when the seams are sewn.
        HRT Tool
        • Place ruler on top of ruler template
          • Notice which template it is. It might be a good idea to write “short” or “long” corresponding to the template on the ruler with your sharpie.
          • Align corner of ruler with corner of rectangle drawn with a dashed line.
        • Use a straight edge and your sharpie to draw the remaining two lines of the raw block.  (Trace the dashed lines)
        • Use a straight edge and your sharpie to draw the diagonal line
        • Ta-da you now have a HRT ruler to use for your blocks.
        • NOTE: you will have to return to these directions and remake the ruler for the other set of HRTs.

        Make HRT Blocks

        • Gather
          • 16, 5″ x 10 ” rectangles – web fabric
          • 16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles – web fabric
          • 16, 5″ x 10″ rectangles – outer border fabric
          • 16, 5″ x 11″ rectangles – outer border fabric 
          • Clear acrylic quilting ruler with HRT markings (made in previous step)
          • Sharpie marker
          • alcohol
        • Sew rectangles together in sets of two – one web fabric and one outer border fabric
          • 10″ to 10″ and 11″ to 11″
          • Right sides together
          • Sew along the long edge of the rectangle
          • Iron seam allowances towards the darker fabric
          • Divide resulting pieced units into 4 piles
            • 2 piles of 9 1/2″ x 10″ with 8 units each.
            • 2 pile of 9 1/2″ x 11″ with 8 units each.
        • Short blocks
          • Using short version of the HRT tool
          • 8 blocks
            • Gather one pile of 9 1/2″ x 10″ units.
        HRT Tool
        Cut one end

            • Place one pieced unit face up on your cutting surface.
            • Place HRT tool on top of fabric – right side up
            • Align diagonal line on HRT tool with seam line of unit.
            • Trim unit to HRT
        HRT Tool
        Turn ruler to cut other end

            • Repeat 7 times for 8 right side up HRTs
          • 8 mirror image blocks
            • Turn HRT tool upside down.
        HRT Tool

            • Place sticky note on  true bottom of tool so that you remember it is now the top.
            • Gather remaining pile of 9 1/2″ x 10″ units.
            • Place one pieced unit face up on your cutting surface.
            • Place HRT tool on top of fabric – upside down
            • Align diagonal line on HRT tool with seam line of unit.
            • Trim unit to HRT
            • Repeat 7 times for 8 mirror image HRTs
        • Long blocks
          • Using long version of the HRT tool
          • Repeat process as described in the short block directions

        Make Short Sides of Outer Border:

        •  Gather
          • 16 short right side up HRTs
          • 16 short mirror image HRTs
        • Sew 16 sets
          • 1 right side up, 1 mirror image HRT block
          • Sew along the short end, at the web fabric side.
          • You should have 8 squashed rectangles that look like squashed dark triangles on a light colored background
        • Iron seams open
        • Sew 2 rows
          • Sew 4 sets together along the short end, at the background fabric side
          • You should have a long strip with 4 dark points facing one way and 3 facing the other
        • Measure the length and record here ____________________.

        Make Long Sides of Outer Border:

        • Gather
          • 16 long right side up HRTs
          • 16 long mirror image HRTs
        • Sew 16 sets
          • 1 right side up, 1 mirror image HRT block
          • Sew along the short end, at the web fabric side.
          • You should have 8 squashed rectangles that look like squashed dark triangles on a light colored background
        • Iron seams open
        • Sew 2 rows
          • Sew 4 sets together along the short end, at the background fabric side
          • You should have a long strip with 4 dark points facing one way and 3 facing the other
        • Measure the length and record here ____________________.

         Inner Border
        This is where the quilt is adjusted to make sure that the borders fit.  Please refer to the Borders section of the directions to calculate how wide to cut your strips.

        • Gather
          • Center of Quilt Top
          • 7 wof strips inner border fabric
        • Width
          • Sew 2 inner border width strips together on short edge
          • Iron seam allowance open
          • Sew strip to short side of top
          • Iron seam allowance towards the border
          • Trim excess
          • Sew remnant to remaining inner border width strip along the short side.
          • Iron seam open
          • Sew strip to opposite side of top
          • Iron seam allowance towards the border
          • Trim excess
        • Repeat process with inner border length strips  for long sides.

        Attach Outer Border

        • Gather
          • Quilt top (with inner border added)
          • 2 long outer border strips
          • 2 short outer border strips
          • 4, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares web fabric
        • Be gentle with these blocks.  Because they are not cut with the weave of the fabric they tend to be a little stretchy.  It would be very easy to warp your border by tugging on the blocks.
        • Pin short outer border strip to short edges of quilt top
          • Align center seam to center seam of wonky blocks section.
        • Sew
        • Iron seam allowances towards outer border
        • Sew 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares to each end of the long border strips
        • Pin long border strips to long edges of quilt top
          • Align center seam with center of quilt
          • Align seam between corner squares and border strips with seam between short border strips and inner border.
        • Sew
        • Iron seam allowances towards outer border


        Eeeek!  It’s a spider!!  Attached to the PDF version of this pattern is a template to cut out the spider parts.  Position and attach the spiders to your quilt top using your favorite method of applique.  (If the pattern is not attached you can find it here.)

        Note – If you are opting to use buttons for the spiders eyes, please do this AFTER you have quilted your project.  It will keep your family from learning words you would rather they didn’t know….and certainly not hear from your lips.

        Finishing  – Layer and quilt as desired.

        I would love to see your creation.  Please feel free to join my Flickr group, Tops to Treasures, and add your pictures!

        One super silly Halloweeny quilt that measures about 69 1/2″ x 79″.  It would be a great place to sit and sort the loot from Trick-or-Treating, or to cuddle under with some hot spiced cider while you sit by the front door ready to dish treats out.

        It is a little too short for a bed, but if you don’t mind not having a pillow tuck it would do in a pinch….how cool would it be to have a seasonal quilt on your guest bed?

        Cindy Sharp

        Halloween Boo Pops

        This is a simple and quick project that kids can help with and be excited to share with their friends. No sewing required!

        1 Layer Cake in Bella White
        Contrasting Ribbon or Tulle
        Tootsie Pops or Blow Pops

        Easy as 1, 2, 3…

        1. Wrap 1 piece of layer cake square around a lollipop.

        2. Tie a piece a ribbon just below the bottom of the candy party of the lollipop.

        3. Give to your friends and family. These are great treats for kids to give to their classmates.

        1 Layer Cake will make 42 Boo Pops

        Happy Halloween!

        Angela Yosten

        H-A-LL-O-W-EE-N Spells Halloween! Wall Hanging


        Happy Halloween everyone! Hi, I am Jennifer Overstreet from gh quilting and I whipped up this fun loving banner just in time for the frightening Halloween season. Where did I get the inspiration for this banner? In elementary school  of course! My music teacher had this simple little diddy to teach us how to spell Halloween. You’ll have to forgive me because I do not remember the whole song. However, I still to this day have the choirs stuck in my head and it simply goes like this: H-A-(double) L-O…W-(double) E-N spells Halloween! And of course repeats itself. Along with ghost and goblins, and pumpkins, and spooky eyes, and scary sites…Oh my!

        (1) H “owl”een layer cake designed by Deb Strain for Moda
        (1/2) yard of Bella Solids Black 9900-00 or optional Bella Solids Black Layer Cake 9900LC-99
        (2 1/2) yards of Purple Spiderwebs 19553-16
        (1/2) yard of Black White 19557-17
        (1) yard of a light fusible interfacing

        Print out the six pages for the applique and template to go along with the pattern. {You can find the templates in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.}

        Please read all instructions prior to making this project!
        *All seams are 1/4″ unless noted other wise!

        Auditioning: is where you match up prints that will work well together ex: what you have in mind of what you think will work together just may not. I ran into this a lot on this project. Best to put them all together on a design wall/floor on how well they will play nicely before cutting and stitching!

        Part One: Making the background block

        • From the H”owl”een layer cake choose six different 10″ squares.
        • Cut each square into 5 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle. Set aside the left over fabric and save for the applique or the strips for the spiderwebs.
        • Next cut six 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles from the 1/2 yardage or you can pull three 10″ squares from the Bella solids black. From the 10″ square you will get two cut rectangles measuring 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
        • Once all of your rectangles are cut take one print and one black rectangle, stitch right sides together along the 9 1/2″ seam, then press to open.
        • Set the six 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ blocks aside. 
        Part Two: The applique process
        • Take the fusible interfacing and any left over material from the printed 10″ squares or any random five to six 10 ” squares from the H”owl”een layer cake. Fuse the auditioned material by pressing with you hot iron to the interfacing with the material right side up.
        • Once all choice fabric is fused to the interfacing, cut out the templates that printed out in the PFD version of this pattern.
        • When all the templates are cut out, trace each of the Halloween letter templates with choice of writing utensil to the interfacing side of each variable 10″ square. Be sure to have each letter facing backwards for instance if you want the letter “b” to be read as a letter “b” turn the template over to trace it so it looks like a letter “d” to you. *There is no letter “b” in any of the applique for this project, its just an example! 
        • After tracing out all the letters for the word Halloween choose which of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block the letters will go with. Keep in mind that each of the printed side of the 9 1/2″ blocks will be opposite from each other, while the black side stays in the middle.
        • Once you have chosen the arrangement of letter(s) to each 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ block start appliqueing them to the black proportion of each block. *My applique process on this was to rough edge applique via blanket stitch by machine. Be sure to follow the rhythm of the song for each block as in HA for block one. LL for block two. O for block three. W for block four. EE for block five and N for block six. Each letter can be wonky, straight, or however you see fit to place it! Also when placing any applique pieces to the blocks, be sure that there is a 1/4″ on each side so that the applique piece is not accidentally sewn into the seam!
        • After appliqueing on the Halloween letters as directed to each block. Start cutting out the facial templates and audition them to any of the left over scrap 10″ squares or introduce them to new 10″ squares from the H”owl”een layer cake.
        • Repete the same process for the Facial templates as stated above for the Halloween letter templates.
        • Place each facial applique piece to your liking ( it does not have to be like mine, feel free to place them where you see them to be fit).
        • After all the blocks are appliqued, place them aside to start on the spiderwebs.
        Part Three: Spiderwebs
        • From the H”owl”een layer cake you can use any left over pieces from the applique process so as long as they are still 10″ or pull few more new 10″ squares to start the strip cutting for the spiderwebs.
        • From various prints cut (24) strips of 2″ x 10″ and (36) strips of 1 5/8″ x 10″.

        spiderweb cut 4

        • Step one: Randomly take (2) 2″ x 10″ strips and (3) 1 5/8″ x 10″ strips and sew them together by having the 2″ x 10″ strips on the out side and the 1 5/8″ x 10″ on the inside. (12) strip blocks are needed for this process.
        • Step two: Cut out the template and place it on top of the strips about 1/4″ away from the edge.
        • Step three: Place your ruler over the template for rotary cutting. Be sure that the ruler covers over the template so that you do not cut the template size down and make your first cut.
        • Step four: Repeat the same process for the other side of the template and save the excess scrap pieces. They will be need for later in the spiderweb process.

        spiderweb cut 5

        • Step five: Turn the template so that the wider side is on top of the strip block 
        • Step six: Repeat the process as before to make the next cut with the rotary cutter. 
        • Step seven: Turn the template back to the same position as the first cut and repeat the process of making the final cut in the block. Remember to save the scrap pieces for later. 
        • Step eight: Randomly select (6) different triangles for the half spiderweb block to achieve a scrappy look. Sew each triangle right sides together until it starts to look like a spiderweb bunting and then press flat to open.
        • Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) spiderweb blocks.
        Squaring the Spiderweb Block

        Spiderweb cut 2

        • As indicated in the picture above: Align the center of the web on a cutting mat for an even vertical cut.
        • Then align your ruler on the 7″ line of your cutting mat.
        • Finally make the cut straight across to even out the web.
        • Repeat the same process for the remain (5) spiderweb blocks. 

        Adding the scrap pieces to the Spiderweb Blocks
        Spiderweb cut 6

        • Step one: Bring back the scrap pieces from the strip blocks. Place them on theend of the second triangle with the wider end towards the center of the spiderweb
        • Step two: With about a 1/2″ over hang on each side stitch the scrap piece to the spiderweb block right sides together.
        • Step three: Press open to lay flat. *It does not matter if you do this process before or after adding the applique block to the spiderweb block.

        Picture 1454

        • Bring back the appliqued 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliques blocks.
        • Center the spiderweb blocks to the black side of the 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ appliqued blocks.
        • With right sides together stitch and then press open towards the the black center.

        Picture 1459

        • Once the spiderweb block and the applique block are sewn together align the block on a cutting mat to square off the excess fabric from the top and bottom sides.
        • Then measure 5 1/2″ away from the connecting seam of the black center and the spiderweb, cut off the excess fabric at 5 1/2″. This will be a 9 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ block in all.
        • Repeat the same process for the remaining (5) blocks.
        Part Four: Putting it all together!
        • Starting piecing the inner banner together with the “HA” block until the banner spells out Halloween. Make sure right sides are together when sewing blocks together. 
        • Finished inner banner will be 15 1/2″ x 57″
        Adding the boarder
        • From the purple spiderweb fabric cut the top and bottom borders 3″ x 20 1/2″ and set aside
        • Also from the purple spiderweb fabric cut the side borders 3″ x LOF or 3″ x 54 1/2″.
        • Add each 3″ x 54 1/2″ border strip to each of the long sides of the inner banner, square off if needed.
        • Then add the 3″ x 20 1/2″ borders to the top and bottom of the inner banner. 
        The finally!!!!
        • Take the finished banner to your local long arm quilter or quilt it on your own.
        • Attach hanging pieces via way of your method of choice to the back of the banner.
        • Finish off with the binding  

        One fun loving spooky kooky 20″x 60″
         H-A-(double) L-O-W-(double) E-N Spells Halloween Banner 

        Thank you for stopping by and checking out my project today!
        Jennifer Overstreet | {}

        Spiders and Webs Quilt

        Hi!  My name is Heidi from Boys, Buttons, and Butterflies.   I grew up in a household that didn’t celebrate Halloween or go trick-or-treating, so I have always been intrigued by the holiday.  Since I first took my oldest son trick-or-treating fourteen years ago, I have wanted to take Halloween more seriously.

        This fall, I fell in love with Trick-or-Treat by Deb Strain.  I couldn’t resist the urge to make a simple quilt with this fabric!

        1 jelly roll (Trick or Treat by Deb Strain)
        4.5 yards of Moda Marble (purple)
        Acrylic ruler that includes a 60 degree angle
        Basic quilting supplies
        Variegated thread (purple/pink/gray tones)

        Unroll and sort the strips by color.  Separate the orange candy corn to the side for the binding.

        Divide the rest of the strips into sets of four using the white, black, and orange.

        Sort the four colors in different orders. I used the green as my guide for all the groupings. Sometimes it was first, sometimes second, and so on! When you have run out of green (because you will!), sort the rest of the strips in orange, black, and white colors to make more collections of four.

        Sew each strip with 1/4 inch seam.  Press.  You will have several lovely rectangles!!

        Now it is time to meet your acrylic ruler and it’s 60 degree angle markings.  The arrows are on the lines that you will line up your fabric top edge with.

        The line that is marked with the 60 degree number along the top edge of your rectangle.

        Make your first cut at the left edge of your strips laid out lengthwise.

        After the first cut, pivot your ruler and line the rule with top ledge with the 60 degree angle line going the other direction to make a triangle.

        Continue down the fabric making 62 total triangles with ALL of the stripped rectangles.

        Cut four 8.5 inch strips from the width of the Moda Marble (purple).  Then cut 22 triangles using the 60 degree angle exactly the same way you did for the strip triangles.

        Using the photo below, layout your triangles to make hexagon shapes with the strip pieced triangles and purple triangles in between.   There are nine complete hexagons and two incomplete hexagons.  Arrange the triangles so that the green is distributed throughout each hexagon and that the colors alternate rows.  Don’t stress too much about it.  I did and it wasn’t worth it!!!  If you are worried, just follow the order I have below!

        Piece the triangles together.  

        You will have six vertical strips.

        Press the seams.  Clean up the dog ears and snip the center where the three triangles meet to eliminate bulkiness when piecing the strips.

        Pin the strips together and sew.

        Pin each seam after aligning to ensure the finished seams will match up.

        Fold them out and press.

        Cut two 3 x 60 inch pieces and two 3 x 50 inch pieces from the length of the purple Moda Marble for sashing.

        There is an imaginary line that you will make across the top and bottom of your quilt.  Use the tips of the hexagons on the end as your guide.

        Use the sashing along that imaginary line as a guide and then place your ruler at the edge to trim the “dog ears” to ensure a straight cut across the quilt.

        Piece sashing to all four sides.

        Backing.  Cut four pieces of Moda Marble (purple) for the backing in the following measurements:

        • 32 x 60 inches
        • 18 x 40 inches
        • 3 x 18 inches
        • 3 x 17 inches

        Piece the backing following this diagram.  The orange hexagon and purple triangles represent the leftover strip pieced triangles and purple triangles to make one final “web”.

        Quilt.   I love to spray baste my cotton batting and then get to work.

        I set out to do stitch in the ditch for the webs and free motion quilting with spiders in the purple background, but when I set up my machine to start and had the foot over the webs, I instantly thought of the movie Coraline.

        There is a part where Coraline is trapped in a web and it seems to stretch into a spiral.  The quilting was meant to be and I am really pleased with the primitive spirals around jarring color changes and straight lines.

        I then ditched my plans for spiders because the fabric was already too busy. I decided to quilt very symmetrical triangles in the purple areas.  I left an open area in each triangle center.

        Variegated thread seemed the best choice for the webs and a complementary purple for the Moda Marble.  It really detracted the fact that it was crossing white fabrics all the way to black. I definitely see myself using this more in the future.

        I also used the variegated thread in the bobbin and it made the backing more interesting.

        Binding.  Don’t forget that you saved the six candy corn strips!!  Piece each strip together to make one long strip of my favorite candies!

        They are perfect fit for the 1 1/4 inch Quilt Binding Tip for my machine.  However, no need for the machine.  Don’t fear…you can just fold it in half and iron it!  I have done it without any difficulties for many years until I bought this gadget!

        I like to sew the binding by machine to the front of my quilt matching the raw edges of the binding and the quilt.  I then hand sewing the folded edge to the back.  I was really pleased with the idea of alternating the background colors of black, white and orange.  They blend seamlessly and are interesting at the same time.

        1 Halloween Quilt  50 x 60 inches.

        Great for a picnic or hayride.  I actually plan on using it as a tablecloth for the celebrations.  It fits my kitchen table wonderfully!

        If you like this quilt tutorial, come join Button and me over at my blog, Boys, Buttons, and Butterflies to see some other quilts and craft tutorials while I manage four boys. Baby Button and I are always up to no good most days while the rest of the boys are at school!

        Thanks for stopping by today, I hope you enjoy this tutorial!
        Any questions?  Email me at

        Heidi Grohs

        Quilted Halloween Banner

        Hi everyone, it’s  Ellie from Craft Sew Create! I realize Halloween is over, but I really wanted to share this quilted Halloween banner with you. Maybe you can just get a nice jump start on next year’s decorations :).

        I just love the vintage “smiling” Halloween decorations. I have collected a few items over the years so I wanted to add a smiling pumpkin and cat to my quilted Halloween banner! Minick and Simpson’s Halloween Night fabric was the perfect medium to give this banner a vintage feel.

        One Halloween Night by Minick and Simpson Charm Pack

        5 yards black ric rac or other ribbon
        10″ black felt or other batting
        1/4 yard solid black fabric
        4 tiny buttons for eyes


        First, lay out your fabrics and decide which fabrics you want to use for your banner. You need to save out the following: One solid orange for the pumpkin, one solid black for the cat, one solid green for the pumpkin stem, and one solid cream for the face pieces. After that you can use the fabrics any way you want. I tried to use fewer of the larger patterned pieces so the letters can show up better. I put those on the back. You will need one charm square for the front and one for the back with a felt or batting piece in between.

        I used black felt as my batting for the quilt squares as it will show on the edges. You can use regular batting or any color felt you’d like. With a rotary, cut the felt into 16, 5″ squares.


        For the lettering you can use any font you choose! The lettering I used was Berlin Sans FB Demi from MS Word. I used all caps and the font size was 400. Print out your letters spelling HAPPY HALLOWEEN (you only need to print one of each letter). I printed in a lt.grey so I wouldn’t use too much ink.

        Cut the letters out from the black fabric. You will also need to cut the letters from a fusible applique medium. I used Steam-A-Seam 2 Lite. You can use your favorite.

        Next you cut out your pumpkin and cat. Use the template included in this PDF for those. Cut one set from fabric and one from your fusible applique medium.
        This is fun part! Take each of your little charm “sandwiches” and quilt them. I tried basting with pins and with a basting stitch, but I found that a basting spray worked the best for me. I used four different quilting patterns. 

        The first I just did a 1/4″ straight stitch using my pressure foot as a guide.

         Next I did a spider web! Straight Stitch diagonally from each side and down the center vertically and horizontally.

        Then put your embroidery foot on (don’t forget to lower your feed dogs) and let the fun begin!

        Starting from the center stitch around and around leaving about a 1/2″ space. Just keep going until you go off the edge.

        Next I kept the embroidery foot on did simple stippling.
        And last I did a grid pattern. The lines are 5/8″ apart both horizontally and diagonally.
        Now you can iron-on your letters to your quilt squares. Peel the backing off of each letter and iron them onto each quilt square sandwich.

        Iron the pumpkin and cat face pieces onto the heads. Be sure to leave the backing on the top part of the stem so it doesn’t iron onto your ironing board.

        Before you iron the heads onto the squares, do the embroidery work on the faces.

        Now you can embroider the faces on your pumpkin and cat. 

        I used a simple blanket stitch around the eyes. 

        Use a straight stitch around the nose, mouth and for the teeth. (I did the stem after I applied him to the quilt block.)
        Sew the tiny buttons onto the eyes. 
        I used light colored quilt squares for the pumpkin & cat. I stipple quilted them.
        Iron the pumpkin and cat onto the squares.

        Use a straight stitch and embroider the pumpkin stem. I used a machine blanket stitch around the cat and the pumpkin.


        The last step is to attach ric rac or ribbon to the back for hanging. Cut two, 2 1/2 yd. lengths. Leave about a 1/2 inch space between each square and pin to back. You can use a simple tacking stitch to attach, or any kind of iron-on hemming fusible web to attach the ric rac to the back.


        One delightful Halloween banner. It would look so cute hanging on a mantle, an empty wall space, or a doorway! Maybe next year, right?

        {Craft Sew Create}

        Three Halloween Treats

        Hello again! It is LeAnne over at Everyday Celebrations. Today I am bringing you three delicious little Halloween treats that can all be made from one jelly roll!

        I will warn you, this is a loooong post! However, I made one apron, three wall hangings, and six trick or treat totes with one jelly roll! (Along with minimal additional fabrics.)  So if you are looking for some quick projects, just pick up your favorite seasonal jelly roll, some solid fabric, a couple of fat quarters, and get sewing.

        p.s. These all would make adorable Christmas projects too!

        p.p.s Since I was able to make so many cute little trick or treat totes, I have a couple in need of a home! So click on over to my blog and leave a comment to win one of the pictured trick or treat totes!

        1 Haunted Mansion Jelly Roll by Sanae

        Below is the breakdown of materials for each project.

        Additional fabrics/materials for wall hanging:
        1/2 yard Bella Solid in Black
        2 Fat Quarters
        1 yard jumbo black ricrac
        1/4 yard iron-on adhesive, such as Heat n’ Bond Ultrahold – the kind that does not require sewing
        (2) 6 foot 1″x 2″  finished or unfinished, mine are finished
        hand saw or table/circular saw
        staple gun

        Additional fabrics for trick or treat tote:

        1/2 yard Bella Solid in Black for lining & top and bottom pieces – per tote
        30″ of 1″ wide black handle strapping, found with the trimsper tote
        seasonal ribbon, optional

        Optional: If you want the top and bottom pieces to be from a different fabric you will need
        1/2 yard fabric for each the top and bottom pieces – will yield enough pieces for many totes

        Additional fabric for hostess apron:
        3/4 yard Bella Solid in Black

        WOF = width of fabric
        RST = right sides together
        All seam allowances 1/4″ unless otherwise stated.

        Tip: I remember the first time I sewed with jelly roll strips. Boy was I surprised when I had a massive ‘curve in my pieced jelly roll strips! Argh, it was one of those ‘Why do I sew?’ moments. 

        To help with this, place two strips RST lining up the selvages (uncut end) as PERFECTLY as you can. Sew the length of the strip. Press seams open. Then sew another pair together, repeating the same process. Repeat till all jelly roll strips are in pairs. Next sew two pairs together, again lining up the selvages as perfectly as you can and pressing the seam open. Now sew the sets of four jelly roll strips together, each time remembering to match up the selvages at the top and pressing seams open. It worked for me. 🙂

        {wall hangings}

        1. From the black fabric cut the following pieces:
        (3) 15″ x 7″ pieces
        (1) 1.75″ x WOF, then cut in half

         2.  Select 6 strips from the jelly roll and cut in half at the fold. (You will need 6 half jelly roll strips for this project, save the other halves for the totes or apron.)

        3. From the two Fat Quarters cut the following:
        (4) 5″ x 5.25″
        (2) 5″ x 5.5″
        (4) 6.5″ pieces of jumbo black ric rac

         4.  Sew together the jelly roll strips adding a 1.75″ black strip on the top and bottom. Press seams open. Even up the ends of jelly roll strips so the panel is 20″ long.

        5. Cut the panel into (4) 15″ x 5″ strips.

        6. With RST, sew a 15″ x 5″ strip on both sides of a 15″ x 7″ piece. Press seams open. Repeat again to make an identical wall hanging.

        7. Place one of the pieces of ricrac across the 5″ edge of one 5″ x 5.5″ rectangle. Place the ricrac so the dip in the top wave is just about even with the top edge of fabric.

        8. Place a  5″ x 5.25″ rectangle on top, RST. Line up the top edges of both rectangles and pin together. Sew in place. Repeat for the opposite end of the rectangle.

        9. Press seams open. Top stitch the ricrac in place. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for the remaining rectangles. Sew both pieces to the sides of the remaining 15″ x 7″ black piece like in step 6.

        10. Trace the words ‘boo’, ‘trick’, and ‘treat’ onto iron-on fusible webbing. Follow the directions for adhering to fabric for your brand of fusible webbing. Cut out letters. Templates for words are included in the Printer Friendly PDF at the bottom of the post.

        11. Fuse the words 3″ up from the bottom in the lower right hand corner of the black panel. Top stitch along either side of the black panel as shown. I used a decorative zigzag with orange thread. Repeat for the remaining panels. (Since this is a wall hanging, I am not concerned about reinforcing the letters with sewing.)

        12.  To help stretch each panel evenly, stitch around each panel about 1/4″ away from the edge. Trim away threads and ricrac ends.

        10.  Cut both 6 foot long 1″ x  2″s every 10.5″ with a hand saw or table/circular saw. Arrange as shown below. Repeat for other two frames.

        11. Secure in place with two staples at each joint. Flip frame over and staple from the other side at each joint. Repeat for the other two frames.

        12. Place one of the wall hangings right side down. Place the blunt side of the frame on top of the panel. (The rounded edge should be facing up.) Center the frame 1.5″ from the top and bottom and 2.25″ from each side.

        13. Fold up the top and bottom edges and staple in place, slightly stretching as you go. Stretch evenly. (It is helpful to have one person fold the fabric and the other staple.)

        14. Fold the side pieces as shown below. Secure with a staple.

        15.  Finish folding up the sides like you are wrapping a present. Secure with staples. Repeat for other wall hangings.

        {trick or treat tote}

        1. Cut the following pieces:
        5 jelly roll strips
        (2) 4″ x 12.25″ bottom – from FQ or solid fabric
        (2) 2.5′ x 12.25″ top – from FQ or solid fabric
        (2) 12.25″ x 16″ lining
        (2) 15″ pieces of 1″ wide handle strapping, found with the trims

        2. Cut three of the jelly roll strips in half at the fold line. (The orange strips. You will only need 3 halves for this project.)  Trim the two remaining jelly roll strips to 2″ wide then cut in half. (The gray strips. You will use all four halves for this project.)

        Arrange the half strips in this order:

        4. Sew strips RST. Press seams open.

        5. Even up the panel so it measures 21″ long. Then cut into (2) 10.5″ pieces.

        6. Take one of the 4″ x 12.25″ pieces and pin to the bottom of one panel. Sew RST along the bottom edge.

        7. Repeat with the 2.5″ x 12.25″ piece and sew RST along the top edge. Press seams open. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other panel.

        8. If desired, cut a 3″ piece of ribbon for a ‘tag’. Fold in half and pin in place about 1″ from the top edge on one of the panels. Match up the raw edges of the ribbon with the raw edges of the bag.

        9. Pin both panels RST and sew. Leave the top open. Press seams and clip the bottom corners. Turn right side out.

        10. Pin handles in place  3.25″ from the side of the bag. Repeat for other side. Baste handles in place using a long machine stitch about 1/8″ away from the top edge.

        11. Pin the two lining pieces RST and sew together. Leave the top open and a 6″ opening at the bottom of the bag. Press seams and clip corners.

        12. Place the outer bag inside the lining, RST.

        13. Pin the two bags together and sew the two bags together. Do not leave an opening.

        14. From the opening in the bottom of the lining, turn the bag right side out. Press along the top edge of the bag making sure the lining isn’t peeking out. Top stitch about 1/8″ from the top edge of the bag.  Tuck the raw edges in the raw edges of the opening in the lining and press. Sew the opening close.

        {hostess apron}

        Note: The finished size of this apron is 26″ wide x 21″ long. The ties measure 37″ long on either side. To add/subtract width to the apron just add/remove jelly strip halves.  For each strip added/removed, you will add/reduce 2″ to the width of the apron. The length is also adjustable. I am 5’10” and the apron comes to just above my knee and ties generously around me.

        1.  Cut the following pieces:
        14 jelly roll halves
        (1) 6.5″ x 27″ top band (add/subtract an additional 2″ to/from 27″ for each strip added/removed)
        (1) 4″ x 27″ bottom band (add/subtract an additional 2″ to/from 27″ for each strip added/removed)
        (2) 6.5″ x 36″ ties

        2. Sew the jelly roll strips together in pairs lining up the selvages at the top.Press seams open. Then join all the pairs together.Press seams open. The cut edges will be slightly uneven and all at the opposite end. (See second picture in this step.) The panel should measure 27″ wide.

        3. Even up the panel and trim to 17″ long.

        *Note: You can cut the panel to any length. The bands/hems will add about an additional 4″ to the apron.

        5. You will want to finish the raw edges. Either serge or zigzag each seam of the panel.

        6. Along the long edge of the 4″ x 27″ bottom band, fold under 1/4″ and press. Then fold under another 1/4″ and press again. Sew hem in place 1/8″ from the edge. Pin the raw edge of the bottom band and the bottom raw edge of the apron RST together and sew in place. Zigzag or serge to finish the seam.

        7. Fold the side raw edges under 1/4″ and press. (From the top to the bottom band.) Then fold under another 1/4″ and press again. Sew in place 1/8″ from the edge.

        8. Sew the ties and top band together RST. (The top band needs to be in the middle and a tie on either side.) It will be WAYYYY long. Press seams open.

        7. Center the WAYYY long band/ties over the apron panel RST and pin. The seams should be on either side of the apron panel. Sew only to the apron panel. Do not sew onto the free hanging ties.

        8. Press the seam and place the band/ties up as shown below. You should now see the right side of the band/ties. Press well.

        9. Now fold the band/ties down, RST so the raw edges of the free hanging ties meet. Pin the free hanging ties as shown below.

        10. Start sewing at the end of one tie and continue sewing. Stop when you get to the apron panel. Skip over the apron panel and continue sewing the other tie together. Clip corners at the ends. Press.

        11. Turn the ties right side out. Push the end back through the tie with a wooden spoon.

        12. Tuck the raw edge of the band/tie to the inside and press. Pin in place from the front, being sure to catch the back of the band with your pins. Top stitch 1/4″ from the edge starting at one of the ties continuing onto the apron, closing the opening, and ending at the end of the other tie. Press well when completed.

        I hope you enjoy your yummy Halloween Treats. 😉
        Happy Baking!!

        1 hostess apron
        3 wall hangings
        6 or more trick or treat totes

        LeAnne Ballard
        {Everyday Celebrations}

        Monster Pillow

        Hello again! I just love creating things for my little boys and this Monster Pillow has been the biggest hit so far. We love Monsters in our house! And my boys have really enjoyed the little secret pocket in this Monster Pillow. They keep their Leapster, games, books, movies, and treats all tucked inside. And let’s not forget the great handles, which make for some awesome pillow fights! For more fun Halloween tote and bag ideas, you can hop on over to my blog at {}.

        For this pillow I used my absolute favorite Halloween collection, Halloween Night by Minick and Simpson….Seriously the cutest! For this project you need:

        • 2 Fat Quarters for outside fabric
        • 2 Fat Quarters for inside pocket
        • 1 Charm Pack
        • 8″ by 8″ white scrap fabric for eyes and teeth
        • 6″ by 2″ black scrap fabric for eyes
        • 9″ by 2″ red scrap fabric for mouth
        • Batting
        • Magnetic Snap or Velcro
        • Wonder Under

        • Fusible Fleece


        1. Outside Fabric: Cut (2) 16″ by 16″ squares. Cut fusible fleece to match and apply to wrong sides.
        2. Pocket Fabric: Cut (2) 12″ by 12″ squares. Cut fusible fleece to match and apply to wrong sides.

        Cut (4) 15″ by 2″ strips for straps and cut 2 fusible fleece to match and apply to wrong sides of 2 strap pieces.
        3. Charm Pack: Cut 12 large triangles 5″ wide by 5″ tall, with angles slanted inward 2.5″ as shown.Cut 12 medium triangles 3″ wide by 5″ tall, with angles slanted inward 1.5″ as shown.Cut 14 small triangles 4″ wide by 3.5″ tall, with angles slanted inward 2″ as shown.
        4. White of Eyes: Cut (2) 4.25″ by 3.25″ ovals. Apply Wonder Under to wrong sides.

        5. Black of Eyes: Cut (2) 2.5″ by 1.5″ ovals. Apply Wonder Under to wrong sides.

        6. Mouth: Cut (2) 8.5″ by .75″ strips. Apply Wonder Under to wrong sides.

        7. Teeth: Cut (1) 3.5″ by 1.75″ large tooth. Cut (1) 2.5″ by 2″ small tooth. Apply Wonder Under to wrong sides of both teeth.

        1. Match 2 triangle pieces right sides together. Sew down long edges, leaving base open. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch. Repeat with the rest of triangle pieces. You will have 19 triangles when finished.
        2. Pin triangles around 3 edges of one of your 16″ by 16″ squares. Make sure all points are facing inward. Top stitch in place.

        3. Press triangles so they point out as shown below.

        4. Apply the “black of eyes” to the “white of eyes” according to Wonder Under instructions. Apply “white of eyes” about 4″ from top center, overlapping a little. Press in place with Wonder Under.

        5. Measure 6″ from bottom center of outside fabric and press a mouth strip in place at a slight angle. With top of teeth inline with mouth strip, press teeth where desired. Press second mouth strip on top of teeth, also at a slight angle.

        6. Using your favorite applique stitch, stitch around edges of all Monster Face pieces.

        7. Measure 2″ from top center of both pocket pieces and apply magnetic snap or Velcro.

        8. Place one strap with fusible fleece and one strap without, right sides together. Stitch down long edges, leaving ends open, turn right sides out, press, and top stitch. Measure 2.5″ from each side of pocket piece and stitch ends of strap in place, with raw ends facing up, as shown below. Repeat with second strap and pocket piece.

        9. Center one pocket piece on one body piece with right sides together. Top stitch across the top only. Repeat with other body piece and pocket piece as shown below.

        10. Lay both pillow pieces right sides together as shown below, with body pieces and pocket pieces lined up together and pin in place. Sew around all edges, leaving a 4″ opening in pocket to turn. Turn entire pillow right sides out.
        11. Stuff pillow through 4″ opening in pocket.

        12. Hand stitch or top stitch opening closed. Stuff pocket back into pillow for secret stuff. 🙂

        Makes one Monster Pillow.

        The fusible fleece is optional. I used it to keep a stiff structure to the Monster Face.

        Tiffany Jenkins