Avant Garden Turning Squares Quilt


Hello!  I am Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here today with a tutorial for a quilt using MoMo’s gorgeous new fabric line Avant Garden.  I made this quilt nice and big with picnics in mind, but it is just as good for snuggling.  However you use the quilt, this is a quick way to make a big quilt using jelly rolls.

2 Jelly Rolls Avant Garden
1 Yard Mochi Unbleached Linen
4 1/4 Yard Linen Mochi Dot Boysenberry
Batting at least 76″ x 76″

You will need 72 total jelly roll strips for this project.  I chose to cut a few 2.5″ x Width of Fabric strips and mixed them in with my jelly roll strips, but the jelly rolls have more than enough strips.  Set aside the extra strips for future projects or use them to make your binding.
Take 36 of the jelly roll strips and cut them down to 2.5″ x 12.5″.  Cut the remaining 36 strips down to 2.5″ x 6.5″.  You will need a total of (108) 12.5″ strips and (216) 6.5″ strips.  It sounds like a lot but the precuts make it quick work!
For each block you will need (3) 2.5″ x 12.5″ strips and (6) 2.5″ x 6.5″

Place your strips into the following layout.

And start piecing the strips into pairs, pressing the seams open.

Add a third strip to each pair and press.

Then piece the 6.5″ squares together.

And then add the 12.5″ piece to create a 12.5″ square.  If you are using a scant quarter inch, you might need to trim your block down a little to get make it 12.5″.

Make 35 more blocks.

Place your blocks into groups of 4, turning them so that the 4 small squares in the center line up.  Piece them into pairs and press the seams open.

And then piece the pairs together.

Arrange the squares into 3 rows with 3 squares in each row.  Piece the squares together into rows and then join the rows.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 72″ x 72″

I used the linen dot for the back of the quilt and the solid linen for the binding.  Not only does it have a wonderful texture, but it was wonderful to work with and gives the quilt a nice weight.  If you decide to use linen for the binding I would suggest cutting it slightly wider than normal (I cut mine 2 5/8″ instead of 2 1/2″).

Erica Jackman
{www.kitchentablequilting.com}

Hourglass Star Quilt


Hello!  My name is Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here to share a quilt made with a fat eighth bundle of  Bonnie and Camille’s beautiful new April Showers collection.  This quilt is really quick to put together and it is a great way to show of some of those pretty fabrics.


1 Fat Eighth Bundle April Showers
2.5 Yards Moda Weave
1/4 Yard Teal Border Fabric
1/2 Yard Umbrella Border Fabric
1/2 Yard Binding Fabric

From your background fabric cut:
4 strips 8″xWOF.  Subcut into 16 blocks 8″x 8″.
4 strips 4.5″xWOF.  Subcut into 32 blocks 4.5″x 4.5″.
10 strips 4″xWOF.  Subcut into 64 blocks 4″x 4″.

Using the prints that will create the most contrast with your background fabric cut:
16 squares 8″x 8″
32 squares 4.5″x 4.5″

Borders:
Cut 3 strips 2.5″x WOF
Cut 3 strips 5.5″x WOF

Binding:
Cut 7 strips 2.5″x WOF

For each block you will need:
1 – 8″x 8″ print
1 – 8″x 8″ background fabric
2 – 4.5″x 4.5″ print
2 – 4.5″ x 4.5″ background fabric
2 – 4″x 4″ background fabric

 Take the 8″x 8″ background fabric square and the 4.5″x 4.5″ background fabric squares and draw a diagonal line using a washable pen onto the wrong side of the fabric.

 Place the background square together with a print square of the same size, right sides together, and sew 1/4″ away from the drawn line on either side.

 Cut along the drawn line.

 Press the seams open.

 Trim the larger blocks down to 7.5″ square and the smaller blocks down to 4″ square.  When trimming line up the diagonal on your ruler with the seam to make sure that your trimmed square will be straight.

 Admire your trimmed block.

 Arrange the blocks like the image below.

 Start by piecing together the smaller squares into pairs.

Piece together the blocks in the order illustrated in the following photos.

 Repeat to make 15 more blocks.

Sew together the border pieces to create 2 pieces 2.5″x 57.5″ for Border A and 2 pieces 5.5″x 57.5″ for Border B.

Arrange the blocks and borders as shown below.  Sew together the blocks into rows and sew the Border A and Border B pieces together.

 Sew the rows and borders together to create the finished quilt top.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 57″x70″

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Scrum-diddly-umptious Baby Quilt


Welcome!  My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting.  I absolutely loved working with Scrumptious; just sewing with it made me feel happy.  This quilt is kind of a modified Irish Chain quilt that uses charm squares and jelly roll strips.  I hope that you enjoy the tutorial!

1 Scrumptious charm pack
1 Scrumptious jelly roll
1 Bella Solids jelly roll in white
1/2 yard Scrumptious print for the binding (or you could use leftover jelly roll strips)
3.5 yards fabric for the backing


1.  From your charm pack and jelly rolls separate out:

  • 9 charm squares
  • 14 white jelly roll strips
  • 5 solid jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll
  • 18 print jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll
2.  For each block I chose one print strip that was the same color as the solid strip (I will refer to this as the B strip) and 1 print strip that contrasted that color (I will refer to this as the A strip).  You will also need:
  • 1 charm square
  • 1.5 white jelly roll strips
  • 0.5 solid jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll
  • 2 print jelly roll strips from the Scrumptious jelly roll
3.  Take your print strips and your white strip and cut them in half so that you have strips that are 2.5″x22″. 
4.  Piece them together with the A strip on top (the one that contrasts your solid), B strip in the middle (the one that matches your solid), and white strip on bottom.  
5.  Square up the edge so that it is straight and cut this long strip into 8 strips that are 2.5″x6.5″.  
6.  Take the remainder of your B strip and cut it in half so that you have 2 pieces that are 2.5″x11″ and your A strip so that you have a piece that is 2.5″x11″. 
7.  Piece them together so that the B strip is on top, A strip is in the middle, and B strip is on the bottom.
8.  Square up the edge so that it is straight and cut the long strip into 4 pieces that are 2.5″x6.5″.
9. Trim your charm square down to 4.5″ square.
10.  Take 2 white strips that are 2.5″x20″ and your solid Scrumptious jelly roll strip that you have cut down to 2.5″x20″.
11.  Piece them together.
12.  Trim the edge so that it is straight and cut into 4 pieces that are 4.5″x6.5″. 
13.  Arrange the newly cut strips into the following block.
14.  Piece together the 4 corners.  
15.  And then the columns.
16.  And then piece together the columns into the finished block which should be 16.5″ unfinished.
17.  Layout the squares in a 3×3 grid and piece together.
18.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.  

 A 48″x48″ baby quilt.

Erica Jackman
{www.kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Road Fifteen Sixteen Patch Quilt



My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting and I am so excited to share this quilt with you.  Road 15 is such an inspiring collection and this was such a fun and quick quilt to put together.  I hope you enjoy the tutorial!

2 Road 15 jelly rolls
2/3 yard Road 15 print for binding
2.5 yards Moda Bella in Gray
5 yards Road 15 print for the backing fabric

1.  Take 72 strips from your jelly rolls and put them into pairs.  You want each pair to have one lighter strip and one darker strip so that there is good contrast between them.
2.  Cut each jelly roll strip in half at the fold. 
3.  Take one half from each jelly roll strip and piece them together along the long edge.  I didn’t pin my strips, but it is important to try piece these as accurately as possible.

 4.  Piece the pairs together along the long sides so that thee colors alternate; here I have blue – black – blue- black.  This should create one piece that is 8.5″ by roughly 22″.  There is a little leeway in the second measurement so if yours is a little shorter that is okay.

5.  Trim one edge. Line up your ruler with the lines on your fabric to make sure that you are cutting perpendicular to the pieces that you have just sewn.

6.  Start cutting 2.5″ strips from the trimmed edge.  This is where you will be glad that you pieced accurately in the previous steps.  If you didn’t sew them perfectly straight, you might need to occasionally re-square the edge of the fabric.  I know that I did.

7.  You should now have 8 pieces that are 2.5″x8.5″.

8.  Flip over every other strip.

9.  Sew them into pairs.

10.  And then pairs again so that you create 2 blocks that are 8.5″ square.

11,  Cut your sashing fabric into 12 strips that are 2.5″xWOF.
12.  Subcut these strips into pieces that are 2.5″x8.5″.  You should be able to get five 8.5″ pieces from each WOF strip.
13.  Sew a one 8.5″x2.5″ strip between each set of blocks and continue joining the blocks until you have diagonal columns.  There should be a single block in the top left corner, then 3 blocks, 5 blocks, 7 blocks, 9 blocks, 11 blocks, 11 blocks, 9 blocks, 7 blocks, 5 blocks, 3 blocks, until you get back to just 1 block in the bottom right corner.

14.  Cut twenty-three 2.5″xWOF pieces for the sashing that is going the opposite diagonal direction.  Cut off the selvage if you haven’t already and sew these strips together along the short side so that you have strips measuring:

  • 2 strips 20″ long
  • 2 strips 35″ long
  • 2 strips 55″ long
  • 2 strips 75″ long
  • 2 strips 95″ long
  • 1 strip 115″ long

15.  Since we are going to trim the blocks along the outer edge, these strips don’t need to reach from edge to edge on the quilt.  Just try your best to center them over each diagonal row and piece together.  The measurements give you more than 5″ extra so you have a little wiggle room.
16.  Once you have added the sashing, piece together the diagonal rows.
17.  Trim the edges to make the quilt square.
18.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

An almost-twin sized quilt that is about 72″x85″. 

I think he likes it, what do you think? 

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Simply Style Stacked Squares Quilt


My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting. I am so excited to share this quilt with you. Working with the gorgeous colors of this collection was so much fun and I hope you enjoy this tutorial!

2 Simply Style Jelly Rolls
1 Simply Style Layer Cake
1 yard Moda Bella White
4.25 yards solid for backing
2/3 yard print or solid for binding
batting that is at least 74″x82″


Cut your white solid into 12 strips that are 2.5″xWOF.

Pair up the strips from each jelly roll so that there the matching strips are together.

You will be using 23 of the 10″ squares from the layer cake and all of the jelly roll strips.  Take the 23 squares and match them with 2 pair of jelly roll strips (and the white solid strips) just like in the photo below.

One pair of strips will be used for the inner square (the purple fabric here) and one for the outer (the gray fabric.  
Cut the inner square fabric into 2 strips that are 2.5″x10″ and 2 strips that are 2.5″x14″.  Cut the outer square fabric into 2 strips that are 2.5″x14″ and 2 strips that are 2.5″x18″.  There are 8 total strips in the photo below, the strips that are the same size and color are stacked.  
Sew the 2.5″x10″ strips onto opposite sides of the layer cake and press the seams open.
Sew the 2.5″x14″ strips onto the remaining sides and press.
Repeat this process with the fabric for the outer squares.  
Use your ruler to cut the square in half. 
And then in half again so that you have 4 identical 9″ squares.
Use your design wall (or living room floor) to lay out the blocks so that there are 8 columns and 9 rows.  Leave some blocks intact so that all 4 are placed together, and then arrange the other blocks around them to give the illusion that they are stacked. 
Be careful that the way you arranging your blocks makes sense.  I made a mistake in my quilt top that I didn’t notice until I had finished binding the quilt.  Here is how my layout should have looked.
There will be some orphan blocks leftover. Arrange them into two random rows and piece them into the backing fabric.
Baste, bind, and quilt as desired. 


This finishes up as a good sized lap quilt.  Finished size: 68″x76″.

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Boho Honeycomb Quilt


Hi!  My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting.  I am so excited about Moda’s new honeycomb pre-cut and this is a fun, quick way to put them to good use.  There are no Y seams involved and it yields a generously sized lap quilt.


1 Honeycomb Hexagons in Natural
2 Boho Jelly Rolls
2 Yards Moda Bella in Sienna
4.5 Yards Boho Wild Child Rain
2/3 Yard Boho Basic Earth
Batting at least 80″x90″


1. Unroll your jelly rolls and put the matching strips into pairs.  You will need 36 pairs of strips.

 
2.  Leave the strips folded in half and subcut the first strip into pieces 5.75″, 8″, and 8″.  Since you left your strip folded, this will give you two pieces each time you cut.  CUT CAREFULLY.  There is very little wiggle room here.  
3.  Leaving the strip folded again, subcut the second strip in the pair into pieces 10.25″, 3.5″, and 5.75″.  
4.  Separate the strips into two piles.
  • Pile for the inner ring: two 3.5″ pieces, 2 of the 5.75″ pieces, 2 of the 8″ pieces.
  • Pile for the outer ring: two of the 5.75″ pieces, two of the 8″ pieces, two 10.25″ pieces.  

5.  Each honeycomb hexagon will need a set for the inner ring and a set for the outer ring.  Take a hexagon and sew a 3.5″ piece to the top and bottom of the hexagon.  Make sure to center your jelly roll piece over the side of the hexagon so a little bit hangs over on each side.

6.  Press and then trim two opposite sides by lining up your ruler with the side of the hexagon.  You only need to trim the two opposite sides because the other sides will be trimmed later.
It should now look like this.
7.  Add two 5.75″ pieces to the sides you just trimmed.
8.  Press and trim.
9.  Now add your 8″ pieces to the two remaining sides.  
10.  To trim down to a hexagon shape, line the 2.25″ inch mark on your ruler with the edge of your hexagon in the center.  Trim around each side.  

11.  Now, using a different print, add two 5.75″ pieces to two opposite sides of your hexagon, press, and trim.  

12.  Add the 8″ pieces, press, and trim.

13.  And then add the 10.25″ pieces, press, and trim just like before by lining up the 2.25″ mark on your ruller with the inner ring (the blue print here).  

14. Cut your solid yardage into seven inch x width of fabric strips.  You will need 9 strips, each strip yields 8 equilateral triangles.

15.  To make equilateral triangles, lay a 7 inch strip (folded in half) on your cutting mat.  Line up the 60 degree mark on your ruler with the top of the fabric.

16.  Cut along the edge of the ruler.

17.  Flip your ruler over and line up the 60 degree mark with the bottom of the fabric to make an equilateral triangle.

18.  Sew the triangle to one side of your hexagon by centering the triangle over one side of the hexagon.  A little of the solid fabric should hang over each side.  Once it has been sewn on and pressed, it should line up with the adjacent hexagon side as shown in the photo below.  
You will need 6 total hexagons with 1 triangle, we will call these the “B” hexagon.  It doesn’t matter which side you add the triangle to since they are all of the same.  

19.  Take the 30 remaining hexagons and add a triangle to the opposite side.

20.  You will need 24 total  of these “A” hexagons with 2 triangles added, so take the remaining 6 hexagons and we will add a third triangle.

21.  Add a third triangle to make three “C’ hexagons.

22.  And a third triangle to make three “D” hexagons.

23.  Arrange your blocks into this layout:

24.  Piece the horizontal rows together.  Do this by taking two hexagons at a time.

And flipping the hexagon on the right up to sew the parallel edge together.  
25. Sew the rows together to finish the quilt top.

26.  Once you have the finished quilt top, two of the sides will need to be trimmed.  Use your ruler and rotary cutter to square up the bottom of the quilt and make this edge straight.

27.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 76″x80″

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

My Improv Valentine Wall Quilt

My name is Erica Jackman and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting.  I am so happy to be sharing this project with you and I hope that you enjoy this fun little project that brings lots of pretty Valentine colors into your home!

1 red Bella Solid layer cake
1/4-1/2 yard Bella solids in various shades of white, pink, and purple.  I used 30’s Pink, Shocking Pink, Azalea, Orchid, and White.
1/2 yard cuts of 4 neutral Bella solids.  I used Steel, Silver, Graphite, and Pewter.
Batting at least 40 inches square
1.5 yards red Bella solid for the backing and binding

For each heart we are going to need to make 4 blocks: two curved pieces for the top of the heart and two angled pieces for the bottom of the heart (one in each direction).  The more exaggerated you make your cuts, the more heart-like your finished project will be.  But remember that steeper curves are more difficult to sew, so don’t get too carried away 🙂  You want there to be some variation between your blocks, but you still want it to look like a heart. 
Curved top-of-the-heart pieces

For each heart you will need 1-2 layer cake squares depending on how big and how exaggerated your heart shape is (I was able to cut one curve from the top of the square and one curve from the bottom).  I am not much of an artist, so I roughly drew the curved shape onto my fabric with a chalk pencil.  
Starting 2-3 inches from the bottom, draw an arc across the length of the square.  It doesn’t have to be symmetrical.
Cut along the arc.  I like to use a small ruler to help guide my rotary cutter as I cut the fabric.  It helps keep everything from sliding around.  
Your fabric should now look something like this.
Choose another fabric and lay it on your cutting mat.  Put your heart shape on top of it.  Make sure you have at least a quarter inch of fabric to the right, left, and bottom of where you overlap your heart shape.  You need to account for the seam allowance.
Using your rotary cutter, cut the white fabric using your heart shape as a guide.
I like to use a washable fabric pen to put a dot at the same spot on each fabric so I can line them up easily when I piece them together.
I am not a fan on pinning improv curves, especially when the curve is this shallow.  Just line up the top of each piece.
And then use one hand on each fabric to guide them under the presser foot.  It takes a little practice, but it much faster and easier than pinning.
Your pieces should now look something like this.  If you think it would help, you can clip the seam allowance a little bit to help the curve sit flat.  I didn’t think it was necessary.
Very, very carefully press the seam allowance toward the outer (non-red) piece.  You don’t want your fabric to stretch.

Repeat this step with another color of fabric, making sure again to allow for the same allowance on the right, left, and bottom of the fabric.

Using the light pink fabric as a guide, I cut the darker pink fabric and then cut another improv curve a couple inches higher on the pink fabric.
Sew the pieces together just like before. Continue adding more colors as desired.  I found that I liked the look of 3 added colors on top of the red layer cake fabric.
Choose a neutral fabric to make you heart a square and put your heart piece on top of it (remembering to leave room for the seam allowance). To make sure that you have a large enough piece, place a square ruler (if you have one) on top of the fabrics.  My squares finished up at 9.5″ square and I like to make sure that I am not short on fabric, so I lined my fabric on the bottom with the 11″ mark and then centered the square ruler over the fabric.
Use your rotary cutter to cut along the right, left, and top of the square ruler.
Now use your ruler and rotary cutter to cut along the outer curve of the heart shape.
You should end up with something like this.
Sew the gray piece to your heart shape just like you did with the other improv curves.  
Use a ruler to square it up.  My blocks finished at 9.5″ but you can use whatever size you want.

Once they are trimmed up, you should have something that looks like this:

Curved bottom-of-the-heart pieces

I found it helpful to make these in pairs so that I made sure I was making them angled in the right direction.
Take two layer cake squares and place them next to each other on your cutting mat.  Using a chalk pencil or other water soluble marking instrument, draw the bottom half of a heart across your squares.
Cut along these lines with your rotary cutter.
Now that you are a pro at piecing improv curves, this next part should be nice and easy.  Place your heart piece on top of another color of fabric.  Remember to make sure that you overlap more than 1/4″ on the right, left, and bottom from the edges of your heart shape (where the arrows are pointing).
Cut the new fabric with your rotary cutter using your red fabric as your guide.
Echo the curve shape a couple of inches up on the pink fabric.
Line up the raw edges of each fabric (where the arrow is pointing) and sew together.
Carefully press your seam allowance toward your new fabric.  Continue adding new fabrics until you are happy with how your heart looks.
Place your heart piece over a neutral fabric.  Once again, I like to place my square ruler over the fabric to make sure that I have enough.  Things can get a little wonky when you sew these together, so err on the side of too much.  I lined up my ruler around the 11-12″ mark.  Remove your ruler, but don’t pick up your heart shape yet since you still need to cut your improv curve

Cut along the top and the side of your ruler that is opposite your improv curves (in this photo that side in the upper left of the photo).  Remove your square ruler and cut the neutral fabric using your heart piece as your guide.

Sew the neutral piece to your curve  You should now have something that looks like this.
Trim to your desired size (I used 9.5″).  If you end up with one or two squares that are more improv-y and wonky than the other, I think it helps to pair them with squares that are more normal looking.  I would not put these two together because the bottoms meet at such different levels.
Once you have made enough blocks for 4 total hearts (that means 8 top-of-the-heart pieces and 8 bottom-of-the-heart pieces) arrange the blocks in a way that you are happy with.  Sew them into pairs.
And then sew the completed the hearts.
Sew the hearts together in a 2×2 grid.
If you would like to use this as a wall hanging, here is a quick way to make some pockets for hanging.  
1.  Take two left over layer cake squares.
2.  Fold the squares in half diagonally and press.  They should now be right triangles.
3.  Align the raw edges of the triangles with the raw edges of the quilt along the top right and left corners on the back of the quilt.  
4.  Stitch into place using a 1/4″ seam.
This creates a pocket along each side.  Just place a dowel in the pockets and hang on the wall.
Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: about 36″ square

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}