Peppermint Swirl Christmas Tree Skirt

Happy Christmas in July! I’m Heather from Heather Kojan Quilts. I’m excited to share this tutorial for a super fun Peppermint Swirl Christmas Tree Skirt! Start now and you’ll have it done way before the holiday rush. (Tip: Make this in any fabric of your choosing to create a fun table topper for any season. Or, maybe a fun and unique baby quilt or play mat. Simply applique a center circle and you’re good to go!)

So, this is truly made in July, and nary a Christmas tree to be seen. So, here you have the perfect basketball hoop skirt!

Ready to get started?

12 Fat Quarters of Basic Grey’s 25th and Pine (4 green, 4 red and 4 white)
3 yards backing fabric
1/2 yard binding fabric

Batting, 54″ x 54″

Nine Degree Wedge Ruler

I’m using the fabulous 25th and Pine from Basic Grey. I love the feel of this fabric. So luxurious.

You’ll need 12 fat quarters to make your swirl: 4 green, 4 red, 4 white. 

Take each of your fat quarters and cut into strips, 2.5″ x 22″. You should get 7 strips from each fat quarter to yield 28 strips of each color.

Next we’re going to make strip sets. Following the chart below, we’ll make 9 unique strip sets. R=Red, G=Green, W=White. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance throughout this project.

Row 1	Row 2	Row 3	Row 4	Row 5	Row 6	Row 7	Row 8	Row 9
R	R	R	G	G	G	W	W	W
R	R	G	G	G	W	W	W	R
R	G	G	G	W	W	W	R	R
G	G	G	W	W	W	R	R	R
G	G	W	W	W	R	R	R	G
G	W	W	W	R	R	R	G	G
W	W	W	R	R	R	G	G	G
W	W	R	R	R	G	G	G	W
W	R	R	R	G	G	G	W	W

Sew your first strip set together, using the chart above. A finished strip set should measure 22″ wide and 18.5″ top to bottom.

After you sew your first strip set, lay out the next strip set beside the first. Try to avoid having the same fabrics next to each other. Label your strip sets 1-9 as you sew them. Press the odd numbered strip sets in one direction, and the even numbered strip sets in the opposite direction. After sewing all of the strip sets, you should have one leftover strip of each color. 

Now it’s time to cut your wedges.

You need to get 5 wedges from each strip set. Place the ruler so that the 22″ mark is aligned with the top edge of your strip set. Use your seam lines on your strip set and the lines on the ruler to make sure your ruler is placed correctly and everything is lined up straight. It’s helpful if you can place your cutting mat so that you can walk around it to make the cutting easier. Cut your first wedge. Re-position ruler at the top edge, and cut your second wedge. Repeat to make 5 wedges total. Stack the wedges (I clip them with a wonder clip) and label stack #1. You’ll end up with smaller “waste” wedges as you cut. Save these for creative play later!

Continue to cut your wedges from each strip set. Label and keep in order.

Find a nice open spot of “design floor”. Lay out your wedges in a circle, starting with one, continuing through nine, then repeating with one through nine and so on. Do you see the spiral happening? Cool, right? You’ll only need 40 wedges for this project. Again, set the remaining wedges aside for creative play (mug rugs? table runner?) After you have all 40 wedges laid out, check to make sure the spiral works and that nothing got out of order. (Your ending wedge will not create a continuous spiral with the first wedge.)

Let’s sew the spiral. I like to sew 8 wedges at a time. I pair the first 2, second 2, third 2 and fourth 2 by laying the right sides together. At my sewing machine, I sew the first pair, then 2nd, 3rd and 4th, chain stitching as I go. Because we did alternate pressing, the seams should nest together nicely. I then sew the first two pairs together, then the last 2 pairs together, and finally the 2 four wedge units together. Then I take this unit and return it to the spiral. Repeat for the reaming wedges. Once I have all 5 eight wedge units sewn, I check to make sure the spiral is continuous and nothing got out of order. Then I sew all the units together, including the seam where the end meets the beginning. I mark this seam with a pin.

Pretend there’s only 4 pairs of wedges above!

Back at the sewing machine, I do a little stay stitching around the inside and outside circle to keep the stitches from “popping”, about 1/8th inch from the edge. 

Cut your backing fabric into two pieces, 54″ in length x width of fabric. Trim selvages and seam the two pieces together. You’ll have a piece of fabric 54″ x 80″ (approximately). Trim to 54″ square. 

Layer your backing, batting and skirt top. Baste as preferred.

Time to quilt! I used my walking foot and did straight line quilting on each side of the seams. I started and stopped each line of quilting where wedge one and forty meet (where I placed that pin earlier.) Be sure to do an 1/8th of an inch stitch around the inner and outer circle edges as well. 

With your scissors, trim around the outer circle. Cut right down the seam where wedge one and wedge forty meet, then continue to cut the inner circle.

Make your bias binding. You’ll need approximately 240″ of bias binding. 1/2 yard will give you more that plenty! Lay out your 1/2 yard of fabric. Use the 45° line of your ruler to lop off the bottom left and top right corners of your fabric, approximately 10″ from the point. I do this so that I don’t have super short pieces of binding fabric. Keep the 45° angle going, and cut binding strips 2.5″ wide. If you want to make the optional ties, reserve two lengths, approximately 22″ long.

To join your strips, place two pieces together, matching the right angles.

Place right sides together. The strips will be at a right angle. Be sure to off set the corner by a 1/4 inch, as shown in the picture. Sew strips together with a 1/4″ seam. Continue to join all the strips until you have enough binding. Fold binding strip in half and press. Voila! Bias binding!

Optional ties: Take one piece of the bias binding strip approximately 20-22″ long. Fold in half length wise. Press. Unfold, then press so that each long edge meets the center “line” that you just pressed. Fold each short end under 1/4″ and press. Re-fold and press entire tie. Stitch along the long edge and short folded edges, close to the open edge. Cut into 2 lengths, approximately 10″ each. Repeat with second strip.

Pin ties in place with raw edges together, approximately 4″ from inner and outer circle. These will get sewn into the tree skirt as you sew on your binding.

Bind your quilt. Congratulations ~ your first Christmas finish of the year!

One Peppermint Swirl Christmas Tree Skirt, 45″ diameter.

Heather Kojan
{heatherkojan.blogspot.com}

Main Squeeze Quilt

Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I am a new chef here, and I am honored to be a part of the Bake Shop. I blog at Live. Love. Create. and love bright, bold colors and modern designs. My quilt design was named Main Squeeze based on the X and O blocks it creates, like a “hugs and kisses” quilt. This pattern yields a large throw sized quilt, 60 by 80 inches when finished.

19 Fat Quarters of coordinating colors, I am using Sphere by Zen Chic.
3 1/4 yards solid or print for background fabric, I used Moda Bella white
3/4 yard solid or print for binding, I used Sphere by Zen Chic
4 1/4 yards coordinating solid or print for back, again I used Sphere by Zen Chic

Step 1:  From your background fabric, cut

12 – 10.5 inch squares
24 – 5.5 inch squares
48 – 6 inch squares
24 – 2.5 inch squares

Step 2:  For the rings, I labeled each ring with the letters A-J, then labeled the half-square triangles number 1 and the “gem” square number 2. The blocks I call “gem blocks” are the squares that just have the small triangle in the corner, as seen below.

So the first ring on the top left of the quilt will need two different fat quarters, fabrics labeled A1 and A2, and so on.  Each ring in my quilt was made up of the same color fabric in two different prints, and the amount needed is based on this layout. You can download a printout of this quilt, so you can test your color combinations here. I think it would also look great if the “gem” blocks are a contrasting color to give each ring some pop.

From your 19 fat quarters cut the following.

A1: (6) 6 inch squares            
A2: (2) 5.5 inch squares              
B1: (2) 6 inch squares
B2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
C1: (8) 6 inch squares
C2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
D2: (1) 5.5 inch square
E1: (8) 6 inch squares
E2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
F1: (2) 6 inch squares
F2: (2) 5.5 inch squares

G1: (6) 6 inch squares

G2: (2) 5.5 inch square

H1: (8) 6 inch squares

H2: (4) 5.5 inch squares

I1: (6) 6 inch squares

I2: (2) 5.5 inch squares

J1: (2) 6 inch squares

J2: (1) 5.5 inch square

To keep everything organized, I kept all my fabric and blocks labeled with sticky notes throughout the quilt top assembly, like in the picture below.

Step 3:  Sew your half-square triangle blocks. Take one 6-inch background piece and lightly draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner on the back. Repeat this for all your 6-inch background pieces.

Step 4:  With the right sides together, place one background piece and one A1 square together. Sew a scant 1/4 inch away from the line you drew on your background piece, and repeat on the other side. Your block should look like this when both sides are sewn.

Repeat for all remaining blocks labeled 1.

Step 5: Cut your half square triangles in half diagonally, on the line you initially drew. Press the seams to the darker print.

Step 6: Carefully trim your half square triangles to 5.5 inches. I line up my blocks with the seam on a 45 degree line on my mat, with a little bit of overhang on each side. I like to cut from all four sides to yield a more accurate cut, but be careful, you will not have much waste!

Step 7: Take your 2.5 inch background pieces and again lightly draw a line from one corner to the other.

Step 8: Place one 2.5 inch background piece in the corner of one 5.5 inch A2 block. Sew just off of the line, on the side closer to the corner.

Note: If you sew directly on the line you drew, when you press your block out you will lose a tiny amount from each block.

Step 9: Trim excess fabric 1/4 inch from the seam. You can also opt to leave this fabric on for extra stability. Press the seam toward the background fabric.

Repeat steps 8 and 9 for all of your blocks labeled 2.

Step 10: Grab four of your A1 half-square triangles (HSTs) and sew together to create a “V” block. I pressed the seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat with four B1 HSTs, and four C1 HSTs.

Step 11: Take one A2 block, one B2 block and two 5.5 inch background pieces and sew together to form a bow tie block, like the following diagram. I pressed seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat for one block with a B2 and C2 block and one block with a C2 and D2 block.

Step 12: Arrange your first row according to the diagram below and sew together. If you are pressing your seams in order to nest them together, you want to press the first seam (between your A1 “V” block and A2/B2 bow tie block) to the right.

Step 13: Repeat step 10 with four A1 HSTs and eight C1 HSTs. Layout your “V” blocks with your 10.5 inch background pieces according to the diagram below.

Step 14: Make one “V” block each using your A1, C1, and E1 HSTs. Make one A2/E2, one C2/E2, and one C2/F2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 15: Make two E1 “V” blocks and one F1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 16: Make one “V” block each using your G1, E1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/E2, one E2/H2, and one F2/H2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 17: Make two H1 “V” blocks and one G1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 18: Make one “V” block each using your G1, I1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/I2, one H2/I2, and one H2/J2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 19: Make two I1 “V” blocks and one J1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 20: Pieces your rows together and press well. I like to sew two rows together at a time. So instead of sewing them on in order, adding each row individually, I sew rows 1 & 2 together, then rows 3 & 4, etc. Then I sew one of the double rows to another double row, and end by sewing the two halves of the quilt top together. I find that it is easier to sew the top together this way so you do not have all the weight of the quilt top when you sew each row on individually.

Step 21: Cut your background fabric into two 68 inch x width of fabric pieces. Remove the selvages and you should have two pieces that are 40-42 inches wide.

I also grabbed all of my scraps and pieced them together to make a 10 inch x 68 inch patchwork piece. Without this piece your back may not be large enough, since I like to have my quilt backs measure 8 inches larger than my tops on all sides. If you would prefer not to use scraps, you need to cut one more piece of background 10 inches by the width of fabric and substitute it for the scrap strip I show below.

Sew together your back according to the diagram below.

Step 22: Cut a piece of batting 64 inches x 84 inches and baste your quilt together. Quilt as desired. I straight line quilted my rings in alternating directions, like a volleyball.

Step 23: Bind and finish your quilt. You will need 290 inches of binding for the quilt. I cut 7 fabric strips that measured 2.5 inch by the width of fabric.

One generous size throw quilt, measuring 60 by 80 inches to snuggle under.

Thank you so much to Moda for letting me share my quilt! I would love to see any of your creations from this tutorial in the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group. Thank you for stopping by!

Kelly Smith
{Live. Love. Create.}

Candy Bars and Candy Boxes Pillows

Hi All! I’m Heather and I blog at here.  I hope Santa left you some candy (Moda Candy, that is!) in your stocking, because we’re going to make some pillows today.

To make 2 pillows, you’ll need 2 Moda Candy packs, 2 fat quarters background fabric and 2 fat quarters pillow backing fabric.

2 Moda Candy Mini Charm Packs (From Outside In by Malka Dubrawsky)
2 Fat Quarters Background Fabric (Seed Grey)
2 Fat Quarters Print Fabric (one for each pillow back)
2 20″ squares of batting (optional)
For each pillow, one 18″ zipper (Longer is fine! I used a 20″ and trimmed down.)
Glue stick
2 18″ pillow forms

Let’s start with Candy Bars.

On you design space (wall, floor, table, whatever you have) refer to the picture and arrange your candy pieces into groups of three. Move them around until you’re happy with your arrangement. These will make your pieced “bars.”  (See that piece in the top right corner ~ the one that’s the same as the background fabric? If that bugs you, see *** below.)

From the background fabric, cut five 2.5” x 22” wide strips. Sub cut these strips into 2.5” x 6.5” long pieces. You’ll use 13 for this pillow top. Reserve the extra 2 for the Candy Boxes pillow.

Place the background candy bars into place on your design space. Your layout should look like this:

***Take your backing fat quarter of fabric. Cut it down to 18”x 19”. Set aside. See that nice little remaining strip? Cut yourself one extra 2.5” square for the Candy Bar Pillow. 

Whew, crisis averted.

Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the three piece units into candy bars. (Chain piecing makes this go super fast!)

Sew the rows together. Press seams away from the background fabric.

Sew your rows together, matching seams.

Your pillow top should look something like this:

Candy Boxes

From the background fabric, cut four 2.5” x 22” strips. Sub cut these strips into six 2.5”x 6.5” bars and thirteen 2.5” x 2.5″ squares.

Take your candy pieces and background bars and squares and arrange as below (use your reserved two background bars from the Candy Bars Pillow.) Or, if you’re only making the Candy Boxes pillow, cut an additional 2.5” x 22” background strip and sub cut into 2.5” x.6.5” bars. 

Uh oh, wait a minute. You’re two candy pieces short of a full candy box. (Or three, if you count that one background piece of candy.)

Okay, nobody panic. Here’s what we’re going to do. Take your second piece of backing fabric. Trim as in *** above, and cut a two additional 2.5″ square candy pieces (also cut one from the other backing fabric for more variety.)

Okay, go back to arranging the blocks. You should have five 9 patch blocks with a seed grey center. You should have four alternating grey seed blocks with a patterned center. Sew the nine patch blocks together in rows. Press. Sew the rows together. Press.  For the alternating blocks, sew a background square to each side of a patterned square. Press. Sew the rows together. You should now have nice 6.5” blocks. 

Sew your blocks together in rows. Press. Sew rows together. Press.Your pillow top should look similar to this:

And here’s both pillow tops together.

Decision time. To quilt, or not to quilt. Your choice. I decided to do some simple straight line quilting. I like the added structure and texture it adds. However, if you’re in a time crunch or just not feeling it, skip the quilting. 

Time to make the pillow backs. We’re making a hidden zippered back with awesome flap/flange back. Complicated title, simple to make.

From your background fabric, for each pillow cut a piece 4” x 18”. Fold in half, length wise, wrong sides together and press. This is your flap/flange.

Take your backing fabric. Cut in half, to make two pieces 9.5” x 18”. (Or, cut into two pieces 6″ x 18″ and 13″ x 18″ or wherever you want your flap/flange to be!) 

Take your zipper and run a small line of glue from your glue stick on the top side of the zipper.  Flip the zipper over on top of the flap fabric. The zipper will now be right side facing the flap with the glued edge meeting the raw edges of the back and flap. The glue stick gives the whole unit a little more stability, a little less “wiggle room.” I use Wonder Clips to hold the layers together.

Your zipper should be face down, aligned at the left. 

At you sewing machine, switch to your zipper foot. Sew the length of the zipper. When you get close to the zipper head, leave your needle down and raise your presser foot. Wiggle that zipper head down a bit, past where you’ve already sewn to get it out of the way. Continue sewing the zipper.

Press well.

Use your glue stick and glue the remaining top side of the zipper. Lay the top half of the pillow back on the bottom half of the pillow back, right side together, and matching the edge of the zipper with the cut edge of the backing. Sew as above. Press well. You now have a pillow back with hidden zipper and awesome flap/flange! Yeah you!

Finishing: Trim your pillow top and pillow back to 18″ square. Lay your pillow top, right side up. Lay your pillow back on top of pillow top, right side down. Make sure your flap/flange is laying down nicely to cover your zipper. Unzip your zipper 3/4 of the way (this is your turning/escape hatch!) Pin all the way around. Stitch around all four sides. Clip the corner of your pillow to reduce bulk. Turn right side out. Press. Stuff with pillow 18″ pillow form (it should be nice and snug!) 

Zip up your zipper and admire your handiness. Go show the rest of the family how clever you are!

2 Deliciously Easy Pillows!

Thanks for sewing along with me. I’d love for you to stop by my blog and say “hi”!

Heather Kojan
{www.heatherkojan.blogspot.com}

Simple Snowman Mini Quilt

Early Season’s Greetings fellow Bakers! This is Robin over at Craft Sisters. Here’s a simple idea for a winter/holiday wall quilt using jelly roll strips and a fat quarter. It’s so great to be sharing it with you. Joy Batiks from Laundry Basket Quilts delivers the perfect colors for this and I love red (makes it an easy choice for the background for me). The greens are also gorgeous or a combo could be great too. There are lots of things you could do with this design and some other ideas are suggested at the end of the recipe. Hope you have fun with it.

 
1 Jelly Roll Joy Batiks from Laundry Basket Quilts 42120JR
1 Fat Qtr. Joy Holiday Pudding 4212585 for snowman circles
1 Scrap Lightweight sew in interfacing (big enough for 3 snowman circles)
2/3 Yd. Backing fabric
24″ x 30″ Low loft batting (suggest fusible batting)
White chalk pencil for tracing tree Freezer paper
 18 4-mm press on crystals for snowflakes
1 Skein Rayon embroidery thread (ivory or cream) for snowflake embroidery
1 Skein Sashiko thread or embroidery thread for tree stitching

Make the Appliqué Background 
Choose 10 strips from jelly roll in high contrast to snowman circle fabric. Cut strips in half and remove selvedges. Sew 10 half-strips together lengthwise using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams to one side. Save the other half-strips for another project. Choose two more strips for borders. Sew border strips to sides of background. Press seams out. Trim and square. Sew border strips to top and bottom of background. Press seams out. Trim and square and set background piece aside.

Make Snowman Circles 

Using the circle templates found in the Printer Friendly Version, trace 1, small, medium, and large circle on to sew-in interfacing. Leave an inch of space between the traced shapes.

Place and pin interfacing circle on right side of the snowman fabric. Shorten your stitch length (15-18 stitches per inch) and sew around circles on the drawn line. The needle down feature of your machine really helps here with staying on the line, stopping and pivoting.

Trim the circles leaving 1/8″ – 1/4″ seam allowance outside the drawn lines. Cut a center slit in the interfacing only of each circle.

Turn circles right side out and use a chop stick to smooth seams. Press. I love this method of appliqué because it adds a bit of dimension and is a stabilizer for the embroidery.

Note: It’s easy to remove the interfacing if you don’t want it by following these steps: Use water soluble thread in the needle and regular thread in the bobbin to sew around the circles. Trim and turn circles right side out and smooth seam with chopstick. Lightly spray circle edges with fabric sizing. Press edges with steam and interfacing will lift away. Edges will still be turned under and bobbin thread can be removed or remain to help maintain edges.

Use a window or a light box to trace snowflake embroidery lines on each circle. Embroider the snowflakes using two strands of rayon embroidery thread (rayon thread adds some shine). Stem or outline-stitch each snowflake. Couch or use fly stitch for the snowflake cross pieces. Crystals get ironed/pressed on after snowman is appliquéd to background.

Trace the Fir Tree

Trace numbered tree lines on to freezer paper, leaving generous space between lines. Cut out the separate pieces.

Place top of tree shape on to background fabric 3″ down from the top edge and 4″ in from left edge (not including borders).  Iron the shape with the waxy side of freezer paper down. Trace around the shape using a white chalk pencil. Peel off the paper shape.

Press line #2 in place and trace. Continue with remaining pieces until tree is entirely traced.

Place and Appliqué Snowman Circles
Pin circles in place and hand or machine stitch using your favorite method.

Stitch Tree on Background 

You won’t need to stitch the entire tree because the snowman covers part of it. There are a number of ways to stitch this tree. Choose what you like best and stitch it – whether it is outline embroidery, bobbin work, Sashiko (Japanese surface embroidery), small ric rac. I opted for Sashiko. Here are a few basics to get you started. It’s fun and relaxing and no hoop is needed. Use a Sashiko needle and Sashiko thread. The thread stands out on the surface and is easy to work with. Sashiko needles are longer than regular embroidery needles. Cut the thread approx. 20″ and knot one end. Load needle with several stitches before pulling it through. Pull fabric taught so there isn’t any puckering. Try to make all of your stitches and spaces between the same length (think rice grains). End stitches in corners to define a pattern sharply. Space stitches so they don’t touch or cross where pattern lines connect. Knot on back when you finish.

Apply Crystals to Snowflakes
Place press on crystals on to snowman circles as shown on template and in photos. Press each one following manufacturer’s directions. A small craft iron is helpful for this step (easier to control and not bump crystals out of place).

Finishing 
Make a quilt sandwich (spray baste or use fusible batting) and quilt around the tree shape close to all Sashiko stitches and around snowman circles. Quilt vertical lines in the ditch in remaining background strips. Trim and bind using left over jelly roll strips. Add hanging strip to back and hang in a noticeable place.

Or… add one more border and use it to wrap quilt around an art canvas. Staple to secure and add picture wire to hang. The intent for this quilt was to keep it very simplistic but a lot more could be done with it.

Here are a few more ideas to try using the rest of your jelly roll.

• Make it a pillow(s) 
• Make it a much larger quilt using the whole jelly roll for background, enlarging the snowman and quilting a fancy holiday motif inside the circles. 
• Make it a runner lengthening the background and adding a tree and snowman to each end.
• Make the tree an appliqué instead of stitching it out.

 
One simplistic, wintery, snowman, wall quilt approximately 21″ x 25″

 

I hope to try some of those other ideas and will post pictures on my blog. Please stop by and visit.

Thanks,

Robin Nelson
{www.craftsisters.com}

The Valencia Street Bike Basket

Hi! It’s me, Palak– owner of Make It Handmade and a very proud mom. My biggest little one just ‘graduated’ from his tricycle to a 2 wheeler with training wheels. So far, his bike rides have been limited to riding from the backyard to the front yard; but I know this is just a sign of more independence to come.

To send him on his way in style; I decided to make him (and his sister) bike baskets to take with them where ever they go.

These bike baskets are made with just 2 fat quarters and a bit of interfacing or batting and are deep enough to accommodate all the summer essentials– a teddy bear, a princess cup, and those pebbles that were too shiny to leave at the park.

  The very best part? At the end of the summer; you can toss them in the wash, and they’ll look brand new for the first day of school. 

And even though Valencia Street Bike Basket was designed for the preschool set, it’s large enough that you can ‘borrow’ it for your own adult bike.
 

2 Fat quarters (I chose prints from Road 15 by Sweetwater)
4 12 inch lengths of ribbon
18″ x 22″ piece of quilt batting, or sturdy fusible or sew in interfacing

These bike baskets come together very quickly! I was able to finish the red and black bike basket (my second one) in about half an hour; from cutting to loading it up with stuffed animals.  When deciding whether to make a velcro or ribbon closure, consider the the bike– ribbon closures will work on any bike or trike.  To use the velcro closure you must have a bike with a bar between the handle bars.

Let’s get started! 

If you are using fusible fleece or interfacing fuse the lining and interfacing together before starting. If you are using quilt batting or a sew in interfacing, pin the batting/interfacing to the wrong side of the lining, and treat them as one piece of fabric from this point on. I used a heavy canvas lining which you will see in the pictures.

Trim the two fat quarters to get rid of the selvage and ensure they are the same size. Fat quarter sizes vary slightly from brand to brand; but this tutorial will work as long as your pieces are the same size. 

Fold your outer fabric fat quarter into fourths. Cut a 6 inch square from the corner without any folds. Do this for the lining as well. Set those squares aside- we might be using them later!

When you unfold the fat quarters, you should see something like a chubby plus sign. The middle is the base of the basket, while the ‘arms’ of the plus sign are the sides.  

 Using the outer fabric, fold the corners together as shown and sew with a 3/8 seam allowance. In the picture below, I’m sewing the bottom left corner.

 To insert the ribbon ties, pin the 12 inch strips of ribbon 1 inch from the top of seam before sewing the last two corners together. Do this on opposite corners of one of the long sides.

 Do this for the same thing (without the ribbons) for the lining. When you are finished you should have two ‘baskets’– one much floppier than the other.

Press the outer fabric seam allowances toward the short sides of the basket; and press the lining seams towards the long sides of the basket.

 With right sides touching, place the outer basket in the lining basket.

 Pin all the way around, making sure to nest the seams as you go. Sew all around using a 3/8 seam allowance leaving a small opening for turning.

Turn your project through that small opening and press! Top stitch a 1/4 inch from the top of the basket making sure to close the opening you left for turning.

 You are finished and ready to ride!

Velcro Closure

I knew my son wouldn’t appreciate those oh-so-girly ribbon ties; so his basket has a velcro closure. The velcro closure will only work on bikes with a bar between the handle bars.  To add velcro, first make up a basket just as before; leaving out the ribbon.

 Take 2 of the 6 inch squares set aside earlier and place them right sides together (layer the batting on the outiside. Stitch around all sides of the square leaving a small hole for turning. Turn the square out and press well.

 Sew the velcro to the square as shown.

Position and pin the velcro patch so it is centered horizontally and overhangs the basket on top by about an inch.  Attach the square to the basket with two lines of stitching– one  across the middle of the square and one above the bottom piece of velcro.

Although you will see the stitching on the inside of the basket, stitching through the outer fabric, lining and interfacing will give the velcro band more strength.

Tips and Tricks:

• If you can’t find matching ribbon for the ribbon ties; you can use a leftover square to piece together 4 12 inch ‘ribbons’. 
• For the velcro strap, if you have access to the bike, consider making the strap the exact length of the bar. This will make the strap even sturdier and the basket better able to handle heavy loads.
• Consider using one of your scrap squares to applique a name or initial to personalize the basket for your little one.

One stylish bike basket– so your preschooler can take a little bit of home where ever he may roam.

Palak Shah
{www.makeithandmade.com}

Paint Chip Placemats

For each placemat you will need:
1/2 yard Ombre Solid by V and Co. for Moda Fabrics
6″” x 42″ of Moda Bella solid white
1 fat quarter coordinating print

Embroidery floss and supplies

 

Press your 1/2 yard ombre fabric and lay out on your cutting mat horizontally.

Trim the selvedge from the darkest end and cut a strip 4 3/4″ wide.

(Your piece will be 4 3/4″ x 18″)

Next find the lightest part of the fabric. It should be right on the fold. With the lightest color of fabric in the middle, cut another strip 4 3/4″ wide.

Using the fabric between the two strips you just cut, find the area of fabric with the biggest color difference. I eyeballed this and then cut two 4 3/4″ strips- one from each area.

(There was anywhere from 1 1/4″ to 1 3/4″ between each each strip)

Trim each strip to 14″ in length then lay out your 4 strips in order from darkest to lightest. 



From the white fabric cut (2) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips and (1) 1″ x WOF strip.

Set aside the 2 1/2″ strips for Binding. Cut the 1″ strip into (3)  1″ x 14″ strips

Begin sewing a 1″ white strip to the right side of 3 color sections as shown above. Use a 1/4″ seam. Press towards the Ombre fabric.

Making sure the colors stay in order, continue sewing sections until all are together.

After the placemat top is together you can add “color names” if you want. I designated a placemat for each member of my family and then chose color names that fit that person. My daughter has the pink placemat so I used color names such as “Lip Smacker” and “Pinkalicious” to personalize it for her. Use your creativity or find color names online from a paint store.

Write the names in the bottom left of each section using a Frixion pen (the kind that disappear when ironed). Layer with a 80/20 batting and embroider using a backstich and thread of your choice.

(I used white thread and the color names are hard to read in the lighter colors)

 

Finish the placemat by sandwiching the placemat top, 80/20 batting, and coordinating fat quarter for the back. Baste or pin then quilt. I used not-so-straight line quilting in each section.



Bind using the 2 1/2″ strips cut earlier from the white fabric.

And you’re done!  :o)

Now you can go back and make one from each color!!!

1 gorgeous Paint Chip Placemat!

Thanks for joining me!  Don’t forget to come visit me on my blog: Crazy Old Ladies Quilts.

 

Credit for inspiration of this fabulous project goes to Avril Loreti. Visit her Etsy shop to see her other amazing creations.

Emily Herrick
{crazyoldladiesquilts.blogspot.com}

Peaks and Valleys

Hello…It’s Jo from Jo’s Country Junction.  I was doodling during a long meeting one evening and came up with this quilt design, Peaks and Valleys. Once I got the quilt together then realized I wanted something a little more creative than my typical stippling for the quilting.  Dawn, The Pajama Quilter, came to the rescue.  She sent a video with a wealth of quilting ideas.  I topped the quilt off with a strip border from the Salt Air Fabric line and wa-la…a finished quilt. The colors and prints are very kid-friendly, which makes it a perfect picnic or snuggle quilt for the whole family.

To cut out this quilt you will need a Tri Recs Ruler. Stop over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to sign up for a chance to win.

You will need a tri-recs ruler or a similar ruler that allows you to cut a triangle in a square block.
Fat Quarter Bundle of Salt Air
5 yards Moda Marble
3/4 yard stripe for binding
6.5 yards for backing

Before cutting I want to show you what the block looks like that we will be making.

We will be constructing “triangle in a square units” and coupling them with squares to create the block.  Each block consists of:
4~ cream squares
4~colored squares

4~triangle in a square blocks with a colored center

4~triangle in a square blocks with a cream center

56 of these blocks are joined together to create the zig zag Peaks and Valleys design.

Working with this specialty ruler can be a bit tricky but very do-able.
Please note:  There is a left and a right side to the small right angled triangles that are sewn to the center triangle.

To cut these right and left hand side pieces it is important to keep the fabrics laying right sides together as you cut the triangles.  This will insure that you will get a right and a left side piece each time you cut.  If you are hesitant to use the ruler, there are good videos out that show you how. Here’s one. 

Let’s start cutting:
From the cream background fabric:
Cut 48~ 3.5″ strips.
Subcut:  232~ 3 1/2″ squares
232 center triangles
232 right handed triangles
232 left handed triangles

Open the fat quarter pack and press the fat quarters. (I did not use the panel that looks like labels.)
Cut four 3 1/2″ strips that are 18″ long from 29 of the fat quarters.

From each set of strips:
Cut 8~ 3 1/2″ squares.
Cut 8~ center triangles
Cut 8~ right handed triangles
Cut 8~left handed triangles

Now that everything is cut, let’s start sewing.  I sorted my left and right handed colored triangles into piles.

All seams are sewn at 1/4″.

Take the cream triangles and add the left hand side piece like this.

Press the seam to the printed fabric to create this.

Add the right hand triangle next.

Press to the printed piece to create this.

Repeat to create 232 units.  Repeat the process making units with a printed center and cream outer triangles creating 232 units.

Next add a square to each triangle unit as shown.  Note that the center of the triangle is the color of square that is added.  Make 232 units of each type.  Press all seams to the point of the triangle.

Sew the units together in a line as shown.  Press all seams to the point of the triangle.

Make 232 units.

The units now need to be sewn together to make blocks.  To do that, arrange four of the strips together as shown.

Match the seams and sew.  Press.  Repeat to make 56 blocks.  You will have some units left over.  Save these to piece the backing.

Sew 8 blocks together in rows.  Make 7 rows.  Sew the strips together to create the quilt top.

To piece the backing sew the remaining units together into one long strip.  Cut the backing in half.  Sew a strip of backing to each side of the pieced unit.  Press.

Sandwich top, batting and back.

Quilt as desired. 

I quilted mine using the Pajama Quilter’s flower and ribbons design for quilting in the cream area.   I put evergreen type Christmas trees in the colored zig zags.  It’s free hand quilting.  It’s the most complicated design I’ve done but I love it.

Cut 9- 2 1/2″ binding strips.  Bind.

84″ x 96″ Quilt

Make sure to stop by at my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to sign up to win one of the tri-recs rulers.

Jo Kramer
{joscountryjunction.com}

Squeaky Clean: A Shower Curtain

Hi All! I’m Angela from Cut To Pieces, and I’m back again today to share with you my latest project; The Squeaky Clean Shower Curtain.

 I recently moved to a new house and found myself in need of a new shower curtain for the bathroom my daughter mainly uses. I wanted to make something that would appeal to her little senses but also be appropriate for adults and guests. I spied Lucy’s Crab Shack by Sweetwater and knew that it was meant to be! I chose the prints that were the most gender neutral to me and would work with my focal print with the large orange bicycles.

 The simplicity yet sophistication of the design allows me to have a patchwork shower curtain without it feeling too “homemade”. The shower curtain is a hit with everyone in the house and will definitely grow well with my daughter!

12 Grommets with mounting hardware
7 – 19 Fat Quarters (I used 19 but you could repeat your fabrics and use fewer prints)
4 yards of laminated cotton canvas
1/4″ wide steam a seam lite or other fabric glue
Small clips (for holding laminated canvas together)

Cut the laminate cotton canvas into (2) 65″ length pieces. Discard the extra fabric.

Then cut one of the pieces to be 42 1/2″ wide. (You are mostly taking off the selvages here)

Cut the second 65″ long piece into (2) 15 1/4″ wide pieces. Discard the extra fabric.

Sew the laminated cotton pieces rst along the length of each piece, centering the 42 1/2″ wide piece between the two 15 1/4″ wide pieces.

  Use clips to help you hold the laminated cotton together as pins will most likely bend and cause puncture holes in the fabric.

 

CAREFULLY press the seam allowance toward the outside, making sure not to stretch the laminated cotton or touch the iron to the laminated side of the print. Press from the back.

 Because the fabric is laminated, it will not fray, so we can leave the edges raw. Yay for less work!

 
 At the top of the shower curtain, fold under the edge by 3/4″. Again, CAREFULLY press this edge down using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric and your iron. A lower setting on your iron may also help prevent distortion.

  Fold the edge again, this time by 4″. Use that pressing cloth!

  Using a laminated foot on your machine (or masking tape on the bottom of your presser foot), sew the folded edge in place along the top of the shower curtain.

Across the top of the shower curtain, mark a dot on each end measuring in 1 1/2″ from both the side and the top. Then continue to mark the grommet locations for the remaining 10 grommets approximately every 6 1/4″ across, also 1 1/2″ down from the top edge.

 

Install the 12 grommets across the top of the shower curtain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You may find it helpful to use the grommet to trace the location and scissors to trim out any excess fabric before installing the grommets.

 

Put aside the top portion of the shower curtain and pull out the fat quarters now.

Choose 1 fat quarter to be the running strip across the width of the shower curtain. (Mine is the blue polka dot print). Cut (4) strips 2 1/2″ wide and sew them together at each short end.

 

TIP: Some leftover Jelly Roll Strips would also work perfectly here!

 Take your remaining fat quarters (I used 18 different ones) and cut (1) 4 1/2″ x 20″ strip from each. (They are easily cut on the fold)

 

Sew the strips rst along the long side in a pleasing random order. Press your seam allowances open.

 

REALITY CHECK:At this point your newly sewn strips should be a half inch wider than your laminated cotton upper portion of the shower curtain (which is 72″). Check to see if the fat quarters are indeed a half inch wider than the laminated cotton. If they are not (It’s REALLY easy to lose some length with all of those seam allowances), then simply add on another fat quarter strip of the width you need to get your dimensions to work. This is a very forgiving pattern and no one will notice an extra strip on one end that a little different than the others. 😉

Sew your long 2 1/2″ wide strip (again, mine is the blue polka dot) across the top of the sewn strips using a 1/4″ seam allowance and trim it to match your fat quarter strip.

 

Fold the short edge of each side under by 1/4″ and press.

 

Then fold the long bottom edge under by a 1/4″ and press it as well.

 

Line up the top of the fat quarter strips with the bottom of the laminated fabric, right sides together. Be sure to keep the 1/4″ edges folded in.

 

Hold the two pieces together using the clips again. If your pieces do not align perfectly, see the Reality Check portion above. Sew the laminated cotton to the fat quarter strips along the long edge using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

 

 CAREFULLY press the fat quarter strips down with the seam allowance pressed in the direction of the fat quarter strips. Top stitch the seam allowance in place along the top of the fat quarter strips.

 

Now apply the 1/4″ steam a seam lite to the folded edge of the fat quarter strip according to the manufacturer’s instructions. We are essentially “gluing” the fabric in place on the back side because it will be too difficult to use pins for this next step.

Flip the strips around to the back, WRONG sides together, and carefully place the folded edge of the bottom fat quarter strip on top of the seam allowance between the top of the fat quarter strip and the bottom of the laminated cotton. Allow the adhesive to hold the piece in place.

 

Top stitch a second time FROM THE FRONT across the top of the fat quarter strips to permanently attach the fabric in place.

 

Lay the shower curtain flat and press the bottom fold of the shower curtain, moving your way from the top of the fat quarter strip to the bottom.

 

Pin your short folded sides together and stitch along each short side and across the bottom of the shower curtain.

 

For aesthetic reasons, you may want to stitch more places together. I chose to also top stitch along the bottom of my blue polka dot print to match the top stitching above.

 

You now have a shower curtain with laminated cotton on the top and cotton fabric on the bottom with all the seams nicely concealed.

 

Take a step back and admire your new shower curtain! (This was the only time I could get a relatively decent shot of the whole thing)

 

Hang it up in your bathroom and ENJOY!

 

1 Shower Curtain approximately 72″ x 72″ just perfect for the kids or the kid in you!

Please note: I still hang this with a clear plastic liner as the back of the shower curtain is not water proof. Also, please check the dimensions of your own tub/shower before starting to confirm that this is the desired size you need. For a shower you may easily choose to make this less wide!

If you make this pattern or any of my other patterns here on Moda Bakeshop, please add your photos to my group on Flickr, Cut to Pieces, and the Moda Bakeshop group. I’d love to see them!

Angela Pingel
{Cut to Pieces}

SLICED Tutorial: Quilt Story Apron

Hello!! I’m back sharing another tutorial from a project I made for the Moda Sliced Competition!  You can also check out my Pea Pod Pincushion tutorial from the competition.  I hope you enjoy making this sweet apron.  Make sure to come and say hi at Quilt Story too! 🙂



2-3 fat quarters for bodice and pockets
Six 1/4 yard cuts for skirt and ruffles
1/4 for scallops
1/4 yard for neck straps
Fat quarter for center waistband
1/3 yard for waistband ties

Pattern Pieces {included in the Printer Friendly Version}:
Main Bodice
Side Bodice
Top Band
Scallop & Pocket

Four 1 yard cuts of ric rac, lace, pom poms, etc.
1 yard medium weight interfacing for bodice and pockets
Tape measure for flower pin
1 yard thin ribbon

*** Use half inch seams for construction of this apron unless otherwise noted.
***The bodice for this pattern is a women’s size 5.

Part 1: Bodice Construction

Use a medium-weight interfacing and sew bodice sides to main bodice piece, then add the top band. Main bodice pattern, side bodice pattern, and top band pattern are included in the Printer Friendly Version.  Repeat and create an identical lining piece, no interfacing needed.

Add iPod pocket to inside of lining.  Cut two pieces, 5″ x 6″ and interface one piece.  Sew right sides together along each side and top, leave the bottom open.  Turn right side out and press.  When pressing, turn in the edges of the unfinished bottom by 1/4″ and press.  Add a trim along the finished top if you’d like.  Pin the pocket in place and sew around sides and bottom.  Reinforce the tops of each side.

Next, top stitch a ribbon across the seam of top band and bodice. Create a bow and tack into the middle of  ribbon bodice.

Create neck straps by cutting 2 strips of fabric, 4″ x 38″. Fold in half lengthwise and sew down entire strip with an angle at the end. Turn right side out and press.

Next is the bodice ruffle trim. Fold in  half lengthwise RST (right sides together) a piece of fabric measuring 2.5″ x 20″. Sew short edges together. Turn right side out and press. Run a narrow gathering stitch along raw edge. Gather to a ruffle to match the top of the bodice. Add the ruffle with a narrow top stitch to front apron bodice piece, along the top band piece. *Minding the half inch edges on each side of bodice. 

Put bodice and lining RST and pin neck straps in between and to the sides of bodice.  However you will leave a little more than a half inch on edges so they don’t get sewn into the seam.  Stitch together sides and top, turn inside out and press. 

Bodice complete.

Part 2: Skirt Construction

Cut 5 strips for the skirt.  From top to bottom my measurements are 5.5″, 6″, 4.5″, 5.5″ and 3.5″ inches long, all by 25″ inches wide.  Sew together in that order.

Using the trims, and coordinating threads, sew trims cross all the seams (as pictured).  Serge or turn side edges in 1/4″ and 1/4″ again and stitch to finish sides of apron. 

Make a wide gathering stitch across top of apron as shown.

Create your bottom ruffle by cutting a piece of fabric 2″ x 40″, turn bottom edge 1/4″ in, and 1/4″ in again press and stitch. Do this to the two sides as well.  Make a wide gathering stitch 1/4″ from raw edge. Gather evenly to match apron width. Set aside.

Cut scallop fabric in half widthwise, to have two pieces 4.5″ x WOF.  Using the scallop pattern {in the Printer Friendly Version}, trace onto the wrong side of your fabric and create four full scallops.  Take the wrong sides of the scallop fabrics and pin together.  Sew along tracing and trim 1/4″ around.  Turn right side out and press.

Take your ruffle and scallop and with RST pin to the apron along the bottom edge. Serge or stitch 1/4″. Open and press. Do a very narrow top stitch on the bottom apron edge.

Create your pocket using pattern piece {found in the Printer Friendly Version}. Embellish as you would like with trim, different fabrics, embroidery etc. Using same pattern piece create a lining piece out of white or coordinating fabric.  Interface one side of the pocket.  Using 1/4″ seams, stitch around the sides and rounded bottom of pocket, leaving the top open. Turn right side out and press. Turn top edges in about a 1/4″, press really nicely and top stitch closed.  Pin pocket in place on apron and use a narrow top stitch to stitch in place. Be sure to reinforce each side at the top.

Gather top of skirt to match finished apron top. With RST pin and sew or serge together.

Part 3: Finishing

Using the fat quarter piece for the center waistband cut a piece 7″ x 13″.  RST sew together lengthwise.  Press with the seam in the center.  Also press the short ends 1/4″ in for a finished look, but do not stitch yet.  Set aside.  Cut two waistband ties 6″ x 34″.  RST sew together lengthwise and on one end of each finish at an angle.  Turn right side out and press. 

Place the waistband ties into the unfinished edges of the center waistband piece.  Center the waistband piece over top of the bodice and skirt seam.  Pin in place and sew a narrow top stitch around the entire center waistband, closing the sides as you go. 

Part 4: Tape Measure Flower Pin, optional

Clip metal ends of measuring tape off. Using hot glue, create a circle center roughly the size of a finger. Create petals by softly folding measuring tape and gluing to center. Alternate sides of flower while rolling and rotating softly.  Start with smaller folds and get larger as you get to the end of the flower.  Try first without glue to get a feel for the process.

Once you’ve finished the tape measure flower you can add some fabric petals or leaves.  Fold a 2″ piece of fabric in half and in half again. Trim raw edge sides into a curve. Add hot glue and place little fabric petals within the measuring tape flower.  Create larger petals using the same method and 3″ pieces of fabric. Put 3-4 of these at the base of the measuring tape flower.  Hot glue a pin clasp thing (that’s what they are called right) 🙂  to the back of the flower, and pin where you would like.

One darling apron!

Thank you so much for all of you who left comments during the competition, it was so much fun and we had a blast!  Thanks to Moda too!! 🙂  I’ll be posting a tutorial for my portable file folders soon!

Be sure to visit our blog, Quilt Story.  We’d love to have you!

Quilt Story

{Quilt Story}

SLICED Tutorial: Inspiration Board

Cork Board

Spray adhesive

Scrap of batting cut to fit cork board

Roll of Upholstery Tack

Rhinestone Buckle

Fabric Stabilizer

(1) spool of Coordinating Ribbon

Hot Glue Gun or Staple Gun

(1) fat quarter of a Moda script print fabric

(1) fat quarter of a Moda Bella Solid fabric

Assorted Charms for Spool Paper Piecing

Thread

– Measure the dimensions of your cork board and cut a piece of batting to fit directly over the cork but not the frame.  Use the spray adhesive to attach the batting to the cork board.

–  Use the charms to create a paper pieced spool of thread.  The background of the spool should be the Bella solid. 

– Cut the script fat quarter to cover roughly half of the cork board plus 2 extra inches on the top and sides for upholstery purposes.  Exact dimensions will depend on your particular cork board. 

– Piece together the bottom half of the fabrics for the cork board using the paper pieced spool and the bella solid.  Again, you will want roughly two inches around the bottom and side perimeters. 

– Sew together the script fabric and bottom spool fabric to create your full fabric piece for covering the whole cork board. 

– Pick a font that you like to create a template for your letters in the word “Inspire”.  It is easier if you use a script font so the letters connect seamlessly.  Size the word to suit your cork board and lightly trace it onto the fabric with a pencil.  Use a fabric stabilizer behind your letters and free motion stitch the letters using your pencil lines as a guide.  (You may want to practice this technique first!  I do this with my feed dogs down, a bobbin matching my solid fabric, and a small stitch length on my machine.  But find the right technique for you and your machine.)

– Use the spray adhesive and align your sewn fabric over the cork board as desired. Pay particular attention to the fabric over the actual cork.  Making it as smooth as possible.  Use basic upholstery techniques to wrap the fabric around the edge and to the back. 

– Use either a heavy duty hot glue gun or a staple gun to hold the fabric in place.  Be sure to fold the corners in tightly. 

– Place your buckle and ribbon on the upper third of the cork board.  Pull the ribbon fairly taught and wrap it around to the back of the board as well.  

– Hold it in place with either hot glue or a staple gun. 

All fabric should be held firmly in place at this point with just the upholstery tacks left to place.  

 -Use the roll of upholstery tacks to hold the fabric in place, using the edge of the frame as a guide.  Cut the roll of tacks to size per side. 

You’re finished!  Hang your new inspiration board on the wall and start filling it with beautiful images that “Inspire” you!

Angela Pingel

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