Winter Wonderland Peaks & Paddocks Quilt

Have you ever found a fabric line that made you squeal right there in the middle of the fabric shop? Have you ever found one that made you giggle with glee and rush to share it with your best quilty friends?  Winter Wonderland by Bunny Hill for Moda did that to me!  I am beyond thrilled to be able to share my quilt made from it with all of you!

I love, love, love the snowmen and the trucks.  What could be better than snowmen driving pick up trucks….perhaps a snugly quilt to make you laugh and keep you warm?!

detail of Winter Wonderland panel

Peaks & Paddocks is a simple quilt made from one, funky block.

I think I was thinking Snowball. I ended up with a center-less Shoo-flly.  Either way, the block screams, “You got it wrong!”  I wanted to find out what would happen if you made a bunch of blocks, all with the same irritating mistake in them, more on that later.

General Description of Quilt
16, 12” finished blocks in a 4 x 4 grid
2 borders
               1” finished inner border with tiny half square triangle (hst) setting squares
               4” finished outer border with large hst setting squares
As described the quilt finishes out at 59” x 59”

Fabric Requirements:
What I used
           Red on White
1 ¾ yards
Selections from fat quarter bundle SKU#2870AB
           White on Red
½ yard
           Red on Red
¼ yard
           White on White
¼ yard
Inner Border + Binding
¾ yard
SKU#2875-15 red on red, twigs & berries
Outer Border
1 ¼ yards
SKU#2871-12 red on white, snowmen
3 ½ yards
SKU#2872-18 white on red, cars
Cutting Directions:
  • From Red on White
    •  80, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
      • Cut a total of 20, 4 ½” x 18” rectangles from fat quarters
      •  Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares for a total of 80 squares
    •  24, 5” x 5” squares for half square triangles (HSTS)
      • Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares
  • From White on Red
    • 24, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares
  • From Red on Red
    • 8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares
  • From White on White
    • 8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares
  • From Inner Border Fabric
    • 5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
    • 2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
    • 2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS
    • 6, 2 ½” x wof strips for binding
  •  From Outer Border Fabric
    • 5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
    • 2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
    • 2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS

Sewing Directions:
  •  Blocks
    • General description
      • Each 12” finished block (actually measures 12 ½” x 12 ½” to allow for ¼” seam allowances) is made from 9, 4 ½” x 4 ½” patches.
        • 5 patches are 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
        •  4 patches are pieced HSTS 

      • The block is based on the classic Shoo-fly design with two exceptions.
        1. There is not contrasting center to my block.
        2.  One of the corners is WRONG!  If you looked at the picture above and thought, “Oh, Cindy drew this one wrong.”  You are absolutely right; however, I did it on purpose.  Over the last 11 months I have been exploring what happens when you make a bunch of blocks wrong on purpose.  The results might surprise you.  They did me.  You can check them out under the “Oops” tab of my block of the month blog, Quilty Friends.
    • HSTS
      • Gather 
        • 24, 5″ x 5″ squares red on white fabric for traditional corners
        • 24, 5″ x 5″ squares white on red fabric for traditional corners
        • 8, 5″ x 5″ squares red on red fabric for WRONG corners
        • 8, 5″ x 5″ squares white on white fabric for WRONG corners
      • On the wrong side of all squares with white background draw a diagonal line.
      • Layer 1 red on white square with 1 white on red square, right sides together
      • Sew 1/4 from each side of drawn line…yes, sew twice.
      • Cut on drawn line.
      • Being careful not to warp triangles, gently iron triangles open…into squares.
      • Iron seam allowances open.
      • You now have 2, HSTS
      • Trim HSTS to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square
      • Repeat process with all red on white and white on red squares for a total of 48 HSTS for traditional corner patches
      • Repeat process with all red on red and white on white squares for a total of 16 HSTS for WRONG corner patches
    • BLOCKS
      • Gather
        • 48 traditional corner patch HSTS
        • 16 WRONG corner patch HSTS
        • 80, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ red on white squares
      • Making one block at a time, arrange 9 pieces in front of you to match drawing.
      • Be careful to get the red triangles oriented correctly.
      • Sew patches together to make rows
        • Row 1: traditional HST with RED down and to the right; red on white square; traditional HST with RED down and to the left.
        • Row 2: red on white square; red on white square; red on white square
        • Row 3: WRONG HST with Red down and to the left; red on white square; traditional HST with Red UP and to the left.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the red on white square in rows 1 and 3
      • Iron seam allowances away from the center in row 2
      • Sew rows together to make block
      • Trim block to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ square.
      • Repeat 15 times for a total of 16 blocks.
  • Quilt Top
    • Gather
      •  16 blocks
    • Arrange blocks in a 4 x 4 grid being careful to orient them so that the WRONG HST corners touch.  (see arrows in layout diagram above)
    • Sew sets of  4 block rows.
    • With the WRONG HST on the side closest to you, iron all seam allowances in the same direction.,
    • Sew rows together to make center of quilt.
      • NOTE: If you ironed the seam allowances as suggested, the allowances will snuggle together when you flip rows 2 and 4 to orient them correctly.
    • Iron seam allowances in the same direction.
    • Measure quilt and record below.
      • It should measure something like 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″. 
      • ________ wide
      • ________ long
  • Borders
    • Inner Border
      • Gather
        • 5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
        • 2, 2” x 2” squares inner border fabric
        • 2, 2” x 2” squares outer border fabric
      • Setting Squares
        • Using method described above make 4, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ HSTS from 2″ x 2″ squares
      • Edge pieces
        • Cut 1, 1 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
        • Sew 1, 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 1 1/2″ x wof strip.
        • Iron seam allowances open.
        • Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top.  They should be very close to 1 1/2″ x 48 1/2″ each.
      • Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the border.
      • Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces.  See diagram below.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
      • Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
      • Iron seam allowances toward borders.
      • Measure quilt and record below.
        • It should measure 50 1/2″ x 50 1/2″
        • _______wide
        • _______long
    • Outer Border
      • Gather
        • 5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
        • 2, 5” x 5” squares outer border fabric
        • 2, 5” x 5” squares inner border fabric 
      • Setting Squares
        • Using the method described above make 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ HSTS from 5″ x 5″ squares
      • Edge pieces
        • Cut 1, 4 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
        • Sew 1, 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 4 1/2″ x wof strip.
        • Iron seam allowances open.
        • Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top.  They should be very close to 4 1/2″ x 50 1/2″ each.
      • Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the border.
      • Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces.  See diagram below.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
      • Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
      • Iron seam allowances toward borders.
  • Layer and quilt as desired.
    • I quilted mine with white thread in Christmas Snow by Anne Bright
detail from Winter Wonderland panel
I hope you enjoy my pattern.  Please share a picture of your completed quilt with me!  I have a Tops to Treasures Flickr group just for that purpose!  Come join the group.
Stop by my blog, Tops to Treasures to win one of the wonderful Winter Wonderland panels!

The Love Bunny Skirt

Hi!  I’m one of the Elizabeth’s from over at Simple Simon and Company and today we are sharing how to make one of our favorite things—skirts for our girls. This skirt in particular was made for my Grace to wear through out both the Valentine and Easter seasons.  Here’s how I made it.

One Layer Cake:  I used “Jubilee” by Bunny Hill
1/2 Yard of Bella White
1 inch elastic
bonding material (like Heat’n Bond)

2 Pompoms for the bunny tails

Today’s skirt is a a simple tube with a gathered, elastic waistband.
To get started you will need to take just 2 measurements.  First measure the circumference of your little one’s waist.  (Grace is 18 inches.)  Next measure your little one from her waist to her knee.  (Grace is 13 inches.)  Ok, write those numbers down and save them—you’ll need them in a few minutes.
Now let’s get down to business. Choose 3 of your favorite squares from the Layer Cake and cut them each into 4  rectangles measuring 4 and 1/2 inches tall by 5 inches wide.
Next sew the squares together (in a repeating pattern) into one long strip.
(You’ll sew them right sides together.)
 When you are finished iron them nice and flat.
(This will be the patterned strip at the bottom of your skirt.)
Now we need to cut the solid white portion of your skirt.  I like my girls skirts to have some body to them so I make them as wide as the fabric is (44 inches) and as for the length…well, we’re going to have to do some math.
Right now your patterned strip for the bottom is 4 and 1/2 inches high.  But when we hem it we will loose a half inch and then when attach it to the white fabric we will loose another 1/4 of an inch so that leaves us with 3 and 3/4 inches of length for the skirt.
For Grace’s skirt I wanted it to be 13 inches long so what I did was take that 13 inch measurement and then subtract from that the 3 and 3/4 inches (from the patterned strip) which puts me at 9 and 1/4 inches.  Easy…but we aren’t done just yet. 
Now I need to add in 1 and 1/2 inches to fold over the top for the elastic casing and add an extra 1/4 inch for where the white will be sewn to the gray strip. 
So after I add this extra 1 and 3/4 inches I know that I need to cut the white portion of my skirt 11 inches long.
Which I did.  Which means I cut my white piece of fabric 11 inches long by 44 inches wide.
(The length of your white area may be longer or shorter depending on the hip to knee measurement of your little one.)
Now with right sides together sew your patterned strip to the bottom of your white strip.
Then top stitch.
You will have a little excess patterned fabric left over on the end of your patterned strip.  Just cut that off so it is even with the end of your white fabric.
Now turn under the bottom (patterned) edge of your skirt 1/4 of an inch, iron, and sew.  Then repeat (turning it under another 1/4 inch, ironing, and sewing).  This will finish off the bottom hem of your skirt. 
Next we get to attach our heart and bunnies!
Select the fabric you would like for your heart and bunnies from the layer cake.
Then, following the instructions from the medium of your choice, iron on your bonding material to the back of your bunny’s fabric.
Now print out the bunny and heart template (which you can download HERE) and trace them onto your fabric.
Cut out and position them on your skirt.
(I like mine off to one side.)
Iron them on.
Next I set my machine on the following settings and stitched around all the edges of both bunnies and the heart.

Once that is finished we need to add the bunny tails which is easy—just tack on a pom pom with a needle and thread.
Now all we have left to do is close up the back of our skirt and add the elastic. 
To close up the back just fold your skirt in half, right sides together, and starting at the bottom sew your skirt together to make the back seam.  (Then top stitch if you’d like.)
Next, make the casing for your elastic. 
To do this fold the top of your skirt over (wrong sides together) 1 and 1/2 inches and iron. 
Stitch along the bottom of the fold to make the casing for your elastic. 
As you stitch leave an opening about an inch wide so you can insert your elastic.
To determine the length of elastic you will need take the measurement of your little one’s waist and minus one inch.  (Grace is 18 inches around so I cut the elastic for her skirt at 17 inches.) 
Cut your elastic. 
Now thread the elastic through your casing.
(I always attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic that I am threading through the casing…It makes it easier to push it through.) 
Sew the two ends of the elastic together.

Tack the elastic down in the back along the seam.
Close the opening you used for threading the elastic.
You are finished! And your little one has a brand new spring skirt!
I love this fabric. It’s so young, sweet, and clean. It is perfect for little girls and springtime!
I had so much fun with it that we ended up making Grace a bunny doll that matches her skirt.  If you’d like the pattern for her just stop over at Simple Simon and Company and check it out.
Thanks for letting us visit today.  We love any chance we get to talk about sewing and fabric!
Simple Simon & Co 

One adorable skirt.

*Note you will have enough fabric left over from your layer cake to make a stuffed bunny, matching hair bows, or another skirt—especially if you have more Bella White fabric!

Simple Simon & Co.


The Cake Clutch

Hi! I’m Palak from Make It Handmade where I offer weekly tutorials on sewing, serging, knitting and everything in between. I’m so excited to share this clutch pattern with you all today!

As a former bride, I remember the desire to come up with gifts for the family and friends that would be thoughtful, meaningful, useful reminders of our wedding day– all on a budget. The Cake Clutch is a quick, easy clutch pattern that makes a perfect gift for bridesmaids, friends, second cousins, or even *gasp* your mother-in-law.

All the fabric needed for the clutches are pulled from one layer cake, which makes each clutch unique while still coordinating with the others. The finished clutch is the perfect size for stashing wedding day essentials while still being small enough to slip inside a larger bag for use as an everyday wallet.

Each layer cake is enough to make 12 clutches, making this project a very affordable way to come up with a dozen gifts.  Even if you aren’t a bride yourself, consider making these as a gift to a bride that you are close to. Simply ask her to choose a layer cake set from Moda’s selection that matches her wedding colors.

1 Layer Cake (I chose Bunny Hill)
1 nylon coil 9” (or larger) zipper for each clutch

Quilt batting to use as interfacing. A craft size package should be enough to make 12 clutches.

These clutches are pretty straightforward, especially if you are have already made other lined, zippered pouches. If you are new to zippers- don’t worry, by the time you’ve finished your last clutch, you’ll be an expert! Be sure to check out the tips and tricks at the bottom of the post for variations on the basic bag, and tips on choosing fabric.

Choosing Fabric:

The hardest part by far, is choosing fabric. You will need to choose 3 layer cake  squares and 1 zipper for each clutch.

One square will become the lining, another the main body of the bag, and the last will be the accent fabric. I recommend choosing a small print for the accent fabric to avoid having to fussy cut around large prints.


The best thing about using layer cakes is that there is very little cutting to do in this project. Slice your accent square in half to create a 5 x 10 inch rectangle. For the optional wrist strap, cut another 2×10 inch rectangle.

If you are using quilt batting as interfacing cut an 11″ square of batting for each clutch.

Pressing And Pinning:

Take your accent fabric and fold down the 10″ edges half an inch. Fold in half to match the center of both the main fabric and the accent piece. Lay the fabric on the batting square as shown and pin.

For the wrist strap (optional), take the 2 inch strip and press in half. Then open the strip and fold the edges inward and press again as shown.


Topstitch down the edges of the of the accent fabric 1/8″ inside the fold to secure the accent piece to the main fabric and batting. This is the the perfect time to add any quilting if desired. Once finished, trim the batting to be even with the fabric edges.

Sew down both long sides of the wrist strap 1/8″ inside the fold.

 Zipper Installation:

 Stack your pieces in this order, outside fabric face up, then zipper face down, and then lining face down. Sew down the edge of the zipper using a zipper foot.

When you are finished, you’ll have something like this.

 To sew the other side of the zipper, flip the outside fabric and lining fabric up to meet the other side of the zipper as shown. Sew along the zipper edge.

Cake Clutch Sides:

Now it’s just a matter of sewing the side seams of the clutch. Open the zipper half way, and reorient the lining as shown.  Insert the wrist strap between the outside fabric layers. (Guess who forgot to do this!). Pin to make sure the excess zipper tape is sandwiched between the lining layers, and the zipper teeth are pointed towards the outside fabric. Sew down both open edges making sure to leave an opening for turning


To finish, clip the corners and trim any excess zipper tape at the clutch edges.  Turn the clutch right side out and press well. Either hand or machine sew the opening in the lining. Topstitch along the zipper to secure the lining.

Now all that’s left to do is contemplate wrapping options!

Tips and Tricks:

  • If you are planning to mass produce these clutches, I recommend running through the entire tutorial for one clutch before starting assembly line production for all of them. 
  • I fell in love with some of the larger prints in the Bunny Hill collection. If you want to showcase some larger prints as the accent piece, fussy cut the prints to the dimension you think looks best. Keep in mind that you will need at least a 2″ strip leftover if you’d like to add a wrist strap.  Oda Mae’s post on fabric scale discusses how to judge a print’s scale by the online picture. 
  • You can also mix up how the clutch looks with a few simple changes. Here I’ve moved the strip off to one side.  

  • And in this picture I’ve added a small contrast band over the accent piece. 
  • I found it useful to use an edge stitching foot for all the topstitching as well as using a zipper foot for the zipper installation.

Up to 12 clutches and 12 happy bridesmaids! (And perhaps a secretly impressed mother-in-law).

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If you’d like to see more about making these clutches, or more about quilts and other handmade items, or simply simply want to chat, stop by Make It Handmade! I’d love to see you!

Palak Shah

Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt

Hello friends.  It’s me, Melissa from Happy Quilting!!  I am so excited to share another Moda Bake Shop tutorial with all of you.  When I saw Anne Sutton’s adorable panel from her Windsor Lane collection I just knew I wanted to make some blocks from it.  How cute are those adorable bunnies!!

And if you have a special little person to make a Bunny Blocks quilt for, then pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a fabulous Bunny Blocks Quilt Kit just for you, in either blue or pink 🙂  And of course, it is at great Burgundy Buttons prices 🙂

And as always, should you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to write me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I would love to help out in any way I can.  And, when you are finished your own Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt please add a picture of it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group.  I absolutely love seeing your work!!!

You will need:

1 Windsor Lane Junior Jelly Roll  (Junior rolls have 20 strips vs 40)
1 Windsor Lane Alphabet Panel
1 1/3 yard of the Taupe Bunnies – print 2844 15
2/3 yard of Bella Slids Off White – 200
1/2 yard of Bella Solids Stone – 128
3 Yards of Backing


Sort your Junior Jelly roll into the following piles of strips.  Put the scrap strips away (you can use them in a pieced backing if you desire) and your binding strips aside.

Separate your block strips into the 5 different prints and the one repeat print.  From the 5 different prints cut (16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each of the 5 strips.  From the repeat print strip cut (8) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.  Set 4 of these repeat print squares aside to be used for the corner blocks.  Place the remaining piece of repeat print with your binding pile.  Lastly, trim the selvages from your 4 sashing strips and then subcut them into 1 1/2″ x wof strips, scrapping the remaining 1″.

And now onto the yardage.

From your taupe bunny yardage cut a 5 1/2″ strip.  This should leave you with a 39 1/2″ piece, so be careful.  There’s no wiggle room.  Subcut your 5 1/2″ strip into 4 squares 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.  Scrap the remains.  Then square up the remaining yardage into a 39 1/2″ x 39 1/2″ square.

From your off white yardage cut (56) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles, (60) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles, and (28) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles.

From your stone yardage cut 10 strips 1 1/2″ x wof

I find it easiest to piece my borders now so they are ready when I get to that stage of the quilt.  Sub-cut one stone strip into (2) 1 1/2″ x 6″ strips and (2) 1 1/2″ x 14″ strips.  Subcut a second strip into (2) 1 1/2″ x 20″ strips.  Now add each subcut piece to the end of a stone wof strip.  You will have 8 strips total now at the sizes listed below.


First, we will build the top half of the block.  Start by taking a print square and placing an off white 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle on either side.  Lay the right hand rectangle onto the square with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  No need for pins 😉  Press.  Now place the left hand rectangle onto the square with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Make 28 sets.  (See below for chain stitching instructions)

Chain Stitching wills save an enormous amount of time on this quilt, so when doing the step above (and steps to come), go ahead and place the right hand side on your block, stitch your seam, and then without clipping your threads, add another set, and another set, and keep stitching until you have done 28 sets. Then clip your threads, press them all, and then repeat on the left hand side.

Now, the bottom of the block.  Lay 2 squares and an off white 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle out as shown below.  Place the white rectangle onto the square on the right with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Again, no pins needed 😉  Press.  Now place the left hand square onto the pieced rectangle with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Once again, chain stitch 28 sets.

Now to finish making the block.  And like before, you will be chain stitching each step for 28 sets.   Lay your top and bottom pieced sets out along with your (2) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ white rectangles as follows.  Place a long white rectangle onto the top pieced set with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  (Once again, I didn’t use pins, but you do what you are comfortable with 🙂  Press.  Lay your bottom pieced set onto your now pieced white rectangle and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Lastly, place the white rectangle onto the right hand side of your pieced block and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.

Take your 28 pieced blocks and remaining 4 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles and lay them out as follows into 4 rows.  Place the remaining rectangle onto the right hand side of the first block in each row and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Now, place the first block in the row onto the second with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for each block until all 7 blocks are stitched into a row.  Repeat for all 4 rows.  Set pieced rows aside.


Trapunto is a technique in quilting that makes a chosen part of the quilt, normally applique, puffier.  Start by gathering your 4 taupe bunny 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares and your (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ repeat squares.  Cut (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from a fusing agent, I use Heat N Bond.  You will be repeating these steps for all 4 corner squares.  Fold the taupe square into 4’s and finger press to find the center.  Fuse the Heat N Bond squares to the repeat print squares.  Then, fuse the repeat print squares to the center of the taupe square using the fold lines as a guide.

Now, for the puffy part.  I like to use 2 squares of batting to make it extra puffy.  Cut (8) 3″ squares from cotton batting.  Spray them with a coat of spray baste and then stick them to the wrong side of the applique.  You can see through the print to know where to place the batting.  Try to center it directly on top of the applique.  Simply stack the 2 squares on top of one another.  If you don’t have spray baste you don’t need to run out and buy some.  Just pin around the very edges of the batting to hold it in place.

Now to tack it down. On the right side of your print, sew a blanket stitch (or zig zag or straight stitch, whichever you prefer) around the edge of the applique tacking it down.  You will start to see it get puffy.  Once stitched, flip your square over and trim away the excess batting so it is nice and close to the stitch line. Be super careful here not to cut your fabric.  You will need to pull the fabric back so it no longer sticks to the batting before trimming 😉  Once you have your 4 corners done you can move to the center of your quilt.

Cut your applique blocks from your panel.  Lay them out in a pleasing manner and use the same applique technique as above to fuse them in place.  If you don’t like Dream Big, you can use other saying with just one panel such as “Tuck Me In”, or “Precious” or “Charming” or “Rock A Bye” or “Love Bug” or any other phrase that only uses each letter once 🙂  

Once your applique is fused in place, cut your batting into 5″ squares and adhere it to the wrong side of the fabric directly over the applique blocks, just like before.

And once again, stitch a blanket stitch or preferred stitch around the edge of the applique.  I added an extra straight stitch around the inside border of the blocks.  Once you are done stitching trim your batting. It won’t be super puffy yet but don’t worry, it really pops up once you are done quilting!


Now that the applique and trapunto is done you can finish piecing your quilt.  Start by adding the white and blue striped borders.  I added the bunny ones to the top and bottom and the plain stripes to the side.  Lay them out as follows.

Lay the top and bottom border onto the edge of your quilt top.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning as you go.  Trim the excess fabric and then press towards the border.  (Word of warning here, the trapunto makes the quilt a little heavier than usual and want’s to pull your quilt, be sure to align nice and tight or you will end up with wrinkles like I did.  But if you do get wrinkles, don’t worry, you can smooth them out when you baste 🙂

Now, lay the side borders onto either side of the quilt with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along either side aligning as you go, trim the excess, and them press towards the border.

Now, lay your 2 wof stone strips along the top and bottom of your quilt and your 2 46″ stone strips along the sides of your quilt.  Add this stone border using the same process as above.

Now, you are ready to add your block border.  Start by laying out as follows.  Place a corner block onto the top and bottom of each of your side rows.  With right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge and then press towards the corner blocks.

Now it is the same border adding process except you will want to pin these borders rathern than alignign as you go.   Start by adding the top and bottom borders.  Then add the side borders, taking care to match and pin your seams at the corner intersections.

Lastly, using your remaining 4 grey strips, add the final border using the same process, trimming the excess and pressing towards the border.  And your top is finished!!


To finish you quilt go create your quilt sandwich and baste it using either spray or pin basting.  Then quilt your quilt sandwich.  I choose to do some custom quilting.  You will want to do a rather dense quilting stitch around the trapunto to really make it pop!!  Lastly use the 5 remaining strips and the leftover repeat strip to create your binding strip and then bind your quilt.    If you are new to quilting and need some pointers on how to finish your quilt you can see my video tutorials going over basting, quilting, and binding in detail.  

One adorable Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt measuring 55″ x 55″ with cute puffy blocks that any little one will enjoy playing with for hours!

Melissa Corry

Baby Lattice Quilt

Hi, I’m Amy Smart and I like to share my quilting adventures at my blog Diary of a Quilter. I’m excited to share a tutorial for a sweet little baby quilt using a couple of Charm Packs and a contrasting sashing fabric.

2 Charm Packs (or 1 Charm Pack + a Fat Quarter)
1 yard sashing fabric (corrected)
1½ yards backing fabric
3/8 yard binding

Collect (50) 5″ squares from either 2 Charm Packs or a Charm Pack + (8) 5″ squares from a coordinating Fat Quarter or two.

From Binding Fabric cut:
(4) 2 ½” x wof (width of fabric) fabric strips (or 180″ of continuous bias binding)

From Sashing Fabric cut:
(2) 5″ x wof (width of fabric) strips
(1) 7 ½” x wof strip
(10) 1 ½” x wof strips

From one of the 5″ x wof strips, cut (2) 4 1/8” squares.  Cut each square once on the diagonal. You will have (4) corner-setting triangles.


From remaining 5″ strips cut (40) 1½” x 5″ pieces

Subcut 7½” strip into (5) 7½”squares. Cut squares twice – once on each diagonal to get (4) triangles per square, for a total of (20) triangles – reserve for side setting triangles.
Using the (50) 5″ squares, layout the squares on point starting with 5 squares across and 6 squares down (see photo below) until you get a design and balance of color that you like.
Start assembling rows diagonally with a side-setting triangle at the beginning and end of each row. Row 1 will have only (1) square between the side-setting triangles and a corner-setting triangle at the top. (See photo below for layout.) 
Rows 2-9 will have a 5″ x 1½” sashing strip between the squares. 
Sew a corner-setting triangle at the end of row 5 and at the beginning of row 6.
When sewing side-setting triangles to the ends of the squares, line up the 90 degree corner with the bottom corner of the square.  You will have the top tip of the triangle hang longer than the top corner of the square.
When sewing a corner-setting triangle to the end of a row, center the longest side of the triangle with both points hanging over the corners of the matched-up square. Sew right-sides together.
Take the (10) 1½” x wof sashing strips and trim or sew strips to a generous length to sew between the pieced rows.  Begin to assemble pieced rows with a sashing strip in between. Leave about 2″ of strip at the end of each row. 
In order to make sure the side-sashing strips match up when assembling the rows together, place the row with the long-sashing strip sewn to it on the bottom with the row to be attached right-sides together. Fold back the top row and make sure the side-sashing segments are lined up. Carefully fold the top row back so that they are right-sides together and pin the two rows together to hold them in the correct place for sewing.
After sewing rows together, press seams towards the sashing strips.
Carefully square-off the sides using a long ruler. Make sure to leave a  ¼” seam allowance at the corners of the charm squares.
Square-off corner-setting triangles using the quilt’s sides as your guide. Be careful to keep the corners square.
Quilt using your favorite method (or quilter.) My friend Meridee Palmer quilted this one for me.
Binding: Sew (4) binding strips together end to end.  I use this binding method for finishing this quilt.

One pretty 36″ x 48″ quilt for your favorite new baby. This quilt is for my brand new niece.

Since the Lily and Will II fabrics that I used may be more scarce now, may I suggest Anne Sutton’s newest collection, Puttin’ on the Ritz as the perfect substitute. There’s even the same gingham printed on the bias… perfect for the binding.

I hope you enjoy this fun little project – perfect for using all the sweet Charm Packs that are available right now.

Amy Smart
{Diary of a Quilter}

Snuggle Play Laugh Love Quilt


Hello everyone, I am Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Sewing and I want to introduce you to my first Moda Bake Shop quilt, Snuggle Play Laugh Love (SPLL).  It is a baby quilt to snuggle with and to be used as a play mat. It is a great quilt that looks complicated, but is super easy for any beginner to make.

So what led me to think of something like this? When my sister and I were babies, my mom would place a quilt down on the floor with abundance of toys to keep us busy. This left my mom free to get some house cleaning done while we rolled around on the floor. I did the same thing with my daughter when she was little too. However, she turned out to be a bit of a blanket caper as she grew from a baby to a bouncing toddler. Needless to say, my daughter’s quilts and blankets have been part of many imaginative adventures.

Now that you know the story behind the idea of this little quilt, lets get started……

  • One Moda Charm Pack ~ Lily & Will (pink) Bunny Hill Designs By Anne Sutton
  • 1 yard for the inner boarder and binding (Essential Dots Baby Pink on White)
  • 1 yard for the outer boarder (Lily & Will Posh Pink Plaid 2806 11*) 
  • 1 1/8 yard for the backing (Lily & Will Pink 2800 11*)
  • If piecing in a strip of fabric in the middle of the backing, you only need 1 yard for the backing
  • 3/8 yard for applique and a strip of fabric for the backing (Best to use Bella Solids Brown)
  • Plus interfacing of choice for applique


  • You will be using 41 out of the 42 charm squares
  • For the inner border to go around the charm squares, you will need to cut out 20- 5 inch x 5 inch squares.  To start, cut 3 – 5in x width of fabric (wof) strips. Then cut the strips down to 5in x 5in squares  
  • For the main border, cut out 4 – 5 1/2 inches x wof strips
  • If using the pieced strip in the back to split up the 1 yard backing, cut 4 1/2 in x wof from the Bella Solids Brown
  • All seam allowances are 1/4 inch through out.

Step 1:

Open up your charm pack and sort the squares you want to use. Then arrange them according to the pattern scheme.

*You can place your color ways in any way that appeals to your eye. You do not by all means have to follow the color order in this pattern.

Play 14

Step 2:

Now that you have all your charm squares sorted, add the 20 – 5 in x 5 in squares to the ends of each row. Once the 20 squares are in place, sew each row according to the arrows.

Play 15

Step 3:

Before you start sewing each completed row together, note that there are arrows pointing on opposite directions on the out side of each row in the picture below. This is meant to to show you which way to press your seams. The reason why you want to press your seams in opposite directions is because when you go to sew the completed rows together, the seams will interlock when you match them up. This technique will make your seams turn out sharp and correct every time. Once seams are ironed, start sewing the completed rows together.

Play 16

You should have the beginning of a quilt top that looks like this:

Play 17

Step 4

Next up is to cut off those pointed edges. Start by measuring 1/4 of an inch away from the main part of the quilt top. This way when you go to sew on the main border, your main squares on your quilt top will not be sewn over; leaving the ends of the squares still having visible points towards the main border. Once you have your ruler set cut away the outer pointed edges with your rotary cutter.  When you are done, you should have a completely square quilt top. Check picture below for a reference.

Play 18

Step 5

Take the 4 –  5 1/2 in x wof border and sew one of the borders to the top of the quilt. Sew the next border to the bottom, and then add borders to the sides. Since you cut the borders with the width of fabric, you will have to trim the excess material. Trim up any excessive material and square off edges as needed.

Play 19

Step 6

You should have a quilt that looks like this:

Play 20

The Applique Process

Play 11

Step 7

The templates are available in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post. Or watch this video to learn how to make them on your own through Microsoft Office using Word.

Once I had my templates printed, I cut them out.

Play 21

Step 8

*The method that I used for my applique process was to take the 3/8 yd (or 1/4 yard if cut down from piecing in the backing) Bella Solid Brown fabric and a piece of scrap fabric, I then bonded the fabrics together with Heat N Bond Lite.  The reason why I went with this method is because I did not want to deal with the paper backing from the Heat N Bond lite. However, feel free to use whatever applique method you are comfortable with.

Take your cut templates and place them on the back of your bonded material. Make sure that the templates are facing backwards too.


Step 9

Then take a pencil and trace around your templates. When you are done tracing your templates, you should have something that looks like this.

Laugh 2

Step 10

Cut out your applique words and letters. Once your appliques are cut out, you are ready to place them on the quilt top. I placed them on each corner just above the final square. I then hand stitched each applique onto the quilt top with a whipstitch. Use whatever hand stitch method you are most comfortable with. You can also opt for machine stitching with a blanket stitch or zigzag stitch.

Play 34

Step 12

Finishing off the quilt

I pieced my backing together with a 4 1/2 in x wof strip of fabric leftover from the Bella Solid Brown. I did it this way so I could sew in a label. I put the quilt together with the backing, batting, and my quilt top. I basted it together with safety pins.

Play 13

Lastly, I quilted this quilt on my own with my walking foot and a simple wave method. I also used a very thin batting to make machine quilting easier. The picture looks like a squiggly mess but this is how I quilted my quilt and it was very easy to do.

Play 35

After quilting, I added my binding to complete this quilt.

A lap size/play mat quilt measuring 40 in x 40 in.

love 2

Thanks so much for stopping by.

Take care all!

Play 33

Jennifer Overstreet
{Gable House Quilting and Designs}

Snuggly Squares II Baby Quilt

My first Moda Bake Shop tutorial was the Snuggly Squares Baby Quilt.  It was so much fun to put together and I loved the finished look!  So when I saw that Bunny Hill Designs was making a second line, Lily & Will II, I knew right away that I wanted to make a more “boyish” version of that first quilt tutorial in the new line.  So, with that inspiration, Snuggle Squares II was created 🙂

Do you have a sweet little bundle of joy you could make up some snuggly squares for? Well then pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a Snuggly Squares II Quilt Kit  just for you.  They come in Aqua or Yellow.  And each even come with an adorable quilt label to add to your finished product.  How awesome!!  And as usual, they are at a great Burgundy Buttons discount price. So hurry over, quantities are limited.

And as always, you can find me over at Happy Quilting. Go ahead and stop by, I love visitors 🙂

1 Layer Cake of Lily & Will II
1 1/4 yards of Backing

That’s it, easy enough right? 🙂

Before we start, just a quick note.  I try to make all my tutorials super beginner friendly but please remember, that should you have any questions along the way don’t hesitate to email me at happyquiltingmelissa at gmail dot com.  I am happy to help 🙂  And when you are done with your project, please feel free to upload it to my Flickr page or send me an email with a picture attached.  (happyquiltingmelissa at gmail dot com).  I would love to highlight your work 🙂  


Okay, grab your layer cake and take off the packaging 🙂  Isn’t it just fun to see all of those amazing prints and colors!!  Now gather up the 5 following white-ish pieces of cake, and the 8 following brown pieces of cake.  (Ya, I call teh 10 x 10 square a piece of cake, I figure it fits 🙂   Got em??  Great!!

Use the following cutting guide to cut the 13 aforementioned slices of cake up 🙂  These will be parts of your blocks 🙂  This is the most intricate cutting so we are getting it over with first 🙂

Now locate the following 2 prints.  Got em??  These will be used for the border 🙂

Use this guide to slice up those 2 pieces of cake.  They are a little easier to cut 🙂  Make sure to cut the top first so that you have 1 larger piece of scrap instead of 4 little ones.  Everyone likes bigger scraps.

Gather up 2 slices of bluish cake of each of the following 8 prints.  You will have a total of 18 squares.

This time we are cutting up little 2 1/2″ squares.  Use the following guide to cut all 16 bluish prints 🙂  No Scraps here 🙂

You should have 11 pieces of cake left 🙂  The 2 repeat pieces of blue and white checks can be set into your scrap pile.  So now you are cutting with 9 pieces of cake.

Use the following guide to cut your 9 pieces of cake.  The last strip in each set can be set aside for scrap.  (Except for the blue / white checked one, it will be used later)  Gather your pieces in a pile and set aside.  These will be used for your binding so you won’t use them until the end 🙂

 And that is all of the cutting.  Just as a review, you should have the following pieces cut 🙂


Alright, it is time to start sewing.  We are going to start with all of those 2 1/2″ squares.  Grab your pile and mix them up.  I find the easiest way is to just throw them all in a baggie add some air, and shake 🙂  If you really get into the shaking, you can get your daily workout as well 🙂

We are going to be turning all of those individual squares into 2 patch pieces.  Grab 2 squares out of the bag (Check to make sure they are not the same print 🙂  and place them right sides together.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Doesn’t matter which edge, any will do 🙂  Once you have completed one, don’t pull it out of your machine.  You are going  to chain stitch all of your squares.  Keep feeding them through, one after another, until you have made all your squares into 2 patch pieces.  You should have 128 sets.

Clip the threads between your sets and press your seams.  I just press mine in one direction but if you like open seams, you are welcome to do it that way.

So now you have a large stack of 2 patch pieces.   We are going to play with them some more.  Next we are going to make 36 four patch rows.  Grab 72 two patch pieces.  Lay 2 sets right sides together and pin along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets.

Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge on all 36 sets,  clip your threads between  sets,  and press.  This is what you should have 🙂

So now  we are going to make 13 four patch squares. Grab 26 two patch pieces.  Lay 2 sets right sides together and pin along the center edge.  Make sure to nest your center seam.  Repeat for all 13 sets.

Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge on all 13 sets,  clip your threads between  sets,  and press.  I pressed these open to help avoid bulk.  This is what you should have 🙂

And last, but not least, you have some 2 patch pieces that will remain 2 patch pieces.  Super easy.  You should have 30 two patch pieces left.  You will only need 24 so you can grab 6 sets and set them in your scrap pile.  Yippee Skipee for scraps 🙂


There are 2 different blocks for this quilt.  We will start with what I call Block A.  There will be 12 Block A’s.    Gather up your 4 rows and your 2 patch pieces, and your brown and whitish squares. You can go ahead and pull out the blue/white check square and set it in scrap.  We only need 12 center blocks 🙂

This is the layout to start.  We will be attaching a 2 patch piece two opposite sides of your center square.

Lay the first 2 patch piece on the center square with right sides together and pin.  Repeat this process with all 12 of your sets.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge of all 12 sets, clip your threads and press .

So now you are here.  Onto attaching the second side.  Same process.  Lay your pieces for all 12 sets right sides together, pin, chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip threads, and press.

With those 2 sides attached, you are ready to add the top and the bottom.  Grab your 4 piece rows.

Lay the first row on top of your center piece.  Make sure to match your 2 seams along the edge of the center square.  Pin along the edge of all 12 sets.  And once again, chain stitch your 1/4″ seam, clip your threads, and press.  When completed, repeat the process to attach the bottom row 🙂

You should have a stack of 12 blocks that now look like this!!  Aren’t they just adorable 🙂

Now, onto Block B.  We will be making 13 of these 🙂  Gather your 4 Patch Squares, and your brown and whitish sashings (those are the rectangles you cut in the first cutting step).

These are put together in the same manner as Block A so this should be cake 🙂  The one difference now is to make sure that you are always adding the same print of sashing 🙂  So grab 2 of your 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles in the same print and layout as follows.    

Lay your first side onto your pieced center square and pin.  Repeat with all 13 sets.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip threads, and press.

Now onto the second side.  Once again, double check that you are adding the same print to each set.  Pin with right sides together, chain stitch your 1/4″ seam, clip threads and press.

Now it is just adding the top and bottom.  This is easy by now 🙂  Grab your 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles that are matching prints.  Do this for each of your 13 sets.

Lay your top along the top of your pieced center.  Once again make sure you have the same print 🙂    There are no seams to worry about matching up this time.  Just pin, chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip threads, and press. Turn and repeat for the bottom 🙂  

And now you have 13 Block B’s.  Super adorable and super easy!!


Alright, now that the 25 blocks are all pieced, we are ready to put them together.  Start by laying out your blocks as follows.  I love how the browns and whites “frame up” the blues 🙂  I know it is kind of hard to see but you can click on the picture to get a bigger image 🙂  

Once you have your blocks all laid out you are ready to start putting together your rows.  Start with row 1.  Lay Block 1 onto Block 2 and Block 3 onto Block 4 with right sides together.  Go ahead and pin along the center edges.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along your pinned line (and remember to remove pins as you go, no sewing over pins 🙂  Now go ahead and press your seams.

Now you are going to attach block 5 to your now sewn together block 3 and 4.  So lay block 5 onto block 4 with right sides together.  Pin along the edge.  Sew your 1/4″ seam and press.

Almost done with the row 🙂  Lastly, lay your sewn together Block 1 and 2 onto your now sewn together Block 3, 4, and 5 with right sides together.  Pin along the edge of Block 2 and 3 to create your final seam.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the pin line and press.

Your row is now pieced together.  Go ahead and repeat this process for all 4 rows.  I did this one row at a time so as not to change my layout on accident but you do what you are comfortable with 🙂

This is what your top should look like with all of your rows sewn.

Next you will take the rows and sew them together.  This is just like before but on a longer and larger scale.    Lay row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Lay row 3 onto row 4 with right sides together.  Make sure to line up the seams.  There are lots so use lots of pins.  Sew your 1/4″ seam along your two pinned lines and press.  Now repeat the same process by first laying row 5 onto the now sewn together row 3 and 4 with right sides together.  Line up your seams, pin, sew, and press.  Then last but not least.  Lay your now sewn together rows 1 and 2 onto your now sewn together rows 3, 4, and 5, pin, sew, and press. 

 You just have to add the border and you are done with the top 🙂  Yippee Skipee!


To start, we have one more cutting step.  Sorry, I totally spaced this when I was cutting the first time.  Remember that one scrap strip of blue and white checks that I told you to set aside? Well pull it out.  Go ahead and cut it into (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.  

Grab all the bits and pieces for your borders.  It is pretty much what is left 🙂  The 8 Whiteish strips that are 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ and 12 four patch rows, and your newly cut four 2 1/2″ squares.

This is the layout for your border.  You will be making 4 of these.  Layout a 4 patch row followed by the first print of the white strips, followed by a 4 patch row, followed by the second print of the white strips, and ended with another 4 patch row.  

Start on the end of the row and lay your first two pieces right sides together.  Pin the edges and sew a 1/4″ seam and press.  Repeat for the other three rows.  Now keep adding on pieces in this manner until the entire row is created.  Make sure to repeat each piece of the row for all 4 rows 🙂 

So now your rows are created and you are ready to add them to your quilt top.  Lay a border piece along each side of your quilt top.  Make sure to mix match your white border pieces from the block pieces so that they are opposite prints.  (see the arrows)  

Lay your border piece along the edge of your quilt with right sides together.  Pin along the edge making sure to match up your seams.  Once again, there will be lots so use plenty of pins.  Repeat with the second side. You know what to do from here 🙂  Sew your 1/4″ seam along both edges and press 🙂

Now you are ready to add the top and bottom border.  This is where those little 2 1/2″ squares come in.  We are going to add them to the ends 🙂  Grab your remaining 2 border strips and lay a 2 1/2″ blue/white check square on the last square of each end with right sides together.  Pin, sew a 1/4″ seam along all 4 ends, and press.

Now, to add them to the quilt top 🙂  Almost done, are you just so excited ???  Lay your top and bottom borders along the top and bottom of your quilt top with right sides together.  Once again, as you pin make sure to line up your seams 🙂  And lastly, sew your 1/4″ seam along both top and bottom and press.

And you have done it!!!  One adorable top that is ready to be turned into one adorable Snuggly Squares baby quilt!


Your backing is already cut to the perfect size so no need to fiddle with that.  Just give it a good pressing 🙂

And you are ready to put your quilt together.   First – make your quilt sandwich. It really helps to tape your backing down onto a wood floor.  The backing will be close but you should have enough.  If you find that you did your seams a little small and the top is to big for the back you can always grab some of your scraps and add to your piece 🙂   Baste the sandwich… seriously, the more pins the better.

Now onto quilting.  I choose to do a medium size stipple in a cute blue. If you are new to quilting, there are tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting, just Google it and practice or you can always just send it out to be quilted.  There are some amazing long arm quilters out there 🙂  

Last but not least, binding.  Remember those strips you cut up at the very beginning? It is time for those to make their appearance.  If you are not sure on how to make a binding or attach it there is a great tutorial  here.

And you are done!!  Way to go!  Don’t you just love it!!!!  

One adorable ready to be cuddled 43″ x 43″ Snuggly Squares II Baby Quilt!!!

Thanks for sewing along with me and Happy Quilting 🙂

Melissa Corry

Topsy Turvy Quilt

One layer cake – Lily and Will by Bunny Hill Designs
2 7/8 yards background fabric – Bella Solid in Snow
2/3 yard for binding – Posh Green Plaid
3 2/3 yards for backing – Cottontail Green
All seam allowances are 1/4″ throughout.
First, cut the background fabric into 40 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x width of fabric.
Next, choose 30 fabrics from the layer cake. Make sure that they contrast well with the background color.
Then, take one 10″ square and trim small slivers off each side of the block. (I used a dark fabric for the sample block for contrast purposes.) Don’t trim more than 1/2″-3/4″ off each side, or the block will become too small. Just a bit taken off each side is sufficient.
Cut two strips of background fabric approximately the height of the square.
Sew on to the block and press.

Trim off the excess ends of the strip so the ends are even with the rest of the block.

Cut two more strips of background fabric that are slightly wider than the block.
Sew and press.
Using a 12.5″ square, trim around all 4 sides of the block.
The block is finished.

Repeat above steps until all 30 blocks are made.

Layout the blocks in a pleasing arrangement. The layout is 5 blocks across and 6 rows down.
Sew blocks together in rows and then sew the rows together.
Baste, quilt and bind as desired.
Since I used a plaid binding, I cut the strips (2 1/4″) on the bias. A little fiddly, but well worth the final results.
One lap quilt that measures 60″ x 72″.
Amanda Jean

Log Cabin Baby Blocks

Hi! I’m Sarah and I’m so excited to bring you my second Moda Bake Shop recipe! This is a fun quilting project where you don’t just make a flat quilt block, you really make a block! You can create precious blocks for baby with the soft and sweet Lily & Will line by Bunny Hill make a super-sized pincushion with a bright and modern print.

Log cabin blocks are simple and fun! They are a great way to ease into quilting because the blocks are very forgiving. No worrying about points matching up and if your seam allowance isn’t perfect, no one will even notice! If you are an experienced quilter, the log cabin block is simple and quick, and makes an adorable gift!

1 or 2 Charm Packs, I used Bunny Hill Designs’ Lily & Will
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of muslin or scrap fabric (fabric is not visible when project is complete)
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of your choice of batting, I use Warm & Natural
polyester stuffing
coordinating thread
rotary cutter
cutting mat

1. Decide which fabrics you’d like to use for your block. Using 2 charm packs, I made 3 blocks: 1 pink, 1 green and 1 blue. Sort your charms into color families to make choosing prints easier.

2. Choose the fabrics for your log cabin blocks! You can make a mock-up arrangement with your charm squares as shown below. Typically a log cabin block has two adjacent sides in one color and the other two sides in a second color, but you can choose whatever arrangement you’d like! I choose creams and browns for two sides and pink/blue/green for the other two sides.

3. When you are happy with the arrangement, cut your center piece into a 1-1/2” square. Each “log” will be made from 1” strips cut from the charm squares. You won’t use up all the fabric, so I cut just as many strips as I needed. (If there’s a fun print you want to highlight, feel free to fussy cut and even omit one set of strips and cut your center square 2-1/2”. I fussy cut the bunny out of the larger-scale print for a center and also fussy cut “logs” from the border print.)

4. To create the log cabin block, you simply sew one strip on a time, going around the center square and building upon each previous strip. See the numbered diagram below. Use a 1/4” seam. Build your block one “log” at a time. You can use your fingers to gently press the seams open before adding each strip or press open with your iron. Trim excess at least once each time around the center square. You can use a single strip for two of the shorter “logs.” Depending on how accurate your 1/4″ seam is, the logs will all finish to 1/2″ wide.

6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 for each block, until you have six blocks that measure 4 1/2” square.

7. Cut (6) 4 1/2” squares of batting and (6) 4 1/2” squares of muslin or scrap fabric.

8. Make a quilt sandwich with muslin on the bottom, batting in the middle and your finished log cabin block on top. Quilt as desired. I like a to sew a square spiral starting in the center, but a diagonal grid or stippling would also work well! The purpose of the quilting is to make the sides of your completed block sturdier. But is decorative as well. Be sure to pull the ends of your threads to the backing by pulling the bobbin thread. Then tie the ends so your quilting won’t come undone, especially if this will be a toy. I used a bright thread so you could see the quilting pattern, but you’ll want to use a coordinating neutral just in case the bobbin thread pulls up to the top.

9. Arrange your six blocks into two rows of three. Sew together at side seams using a 1/4” seam allowance, right (pieced) sides together, so raw edges will be hidden.

10. This is where your flat miniature quilts turn into a three dimensional project! Keeping the pieced sides toward the inside, fold the block rows into a “C” shape.

Using a single seam, sew the two block rows together as shown below, again with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  If you stitch just about 3/4″ in from the corners on either side of the opening the turned and finished block will have cleaner points.

This may be a little awkward, but just remember to pivot 1/4″ from the corners with the needle in the down position. Before sewing each side, align the layer edges. It’s also helpful to reinforce your stitching at the corners so the stitches don’t come loose as you turn it right side out. You’ll find it’s easier than it looks!


11. Turn your cube inside out and stuff with polyester fiberfill.You can make a very soft or firm block.

12. Hand stitch the opening closed using a slipstitch or ladderstitch.

You’re all done!

1 Charm Pack has more than enough fabric to complete a single block. With 2 Charm Packs I made 3 coordinating blocks with fabric scraps to spare. Give a single block or a set as a special baby shower gift or 1st birthday gift!

Make a few plain (1 fabric per side) blocks with leftover charm squares to go along with Log Cabin Baby Blocks to quickly create a gift!

Sarah Meyer

Snuggly Squares Baby Quilt

Hi, my name is Melissa Corry and this is my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial. To say I am excited would be a huge understatement! I am a huge fan of the MBS and have made lots of tutorials from this site. I am so honored to have one of my designs here. I tried to put some of me into this tutorial and hope you get to know me a bit through making this quilt. So get ready to have a few laughs (I hope), make an adorable quilt, and above all, enjoy some Happy Quilting! If you ever want to stop by my stomping grounds you can find me over

Quilt Top

1 Lily and Will Layer Cake – That’s right, a whole quilt out of one layer cake. Pretty simple, huh?

Quilt Back

1 1/4 yards of a coordinating print

A quick side note before we start. I tried to make this tutorial very beginner friendly. If you are not a beginner feel fee to simply skim the instructions for what you need. If you are a beginner and you happen to have questions please don’t hesitate to ask. You can email me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com. I will try to answer all of your questions asap.

We are going to start by cutting out the sashing for each of the 25 blocks and a few of the small squares. Pull the following pictured 25 prints out of your layer cake. There are 2 of each print except for the pink print on the side. You will only need one of the pink small flower print for the center block.

So do you have your 25 cake slices? (I am going to keep referring to them as that, just so you know) Great, use the diagram below to cut them. Now don’t go and cut all 25 stacked together. You will never end up with straight lines. In the same sense, cutting one at a time will take you all day. I would suggest cutting around 3-5 pieces at a time, depending on how confident you are with your cutting skills.

Now that the biggest cutting part is done, the rest will be “cake” (tee hee hee). Next we are going to cut the fabric needed for our binding strip. Go ahead and pull out the following pictured 6 slices of cake. That’s 2 prints, 3 of each.

Cut the 6 prints using the following guide. This will be simple compared to what you have already cut.

Now this next cutting might seem a little silly but I always feel the larger the scrap piece the better. So we are moving on to the small squares and so that we have the exact amount we need you are only cutting one piece of cake right now. So pull out one small pink flower print.

Go ahead and cut it according to the following diagram. (Or just look at the picture above, I forgot to take a picture of it before I cut it, oops 🙂 Isn’t it nice to have a big scrap piece?

Now we are going to cut the remaining small squares needed for our quilt top. You should have the following 10 pieces of cake left, 2 of each print.

Cut the 10 pieces of cake using the following diagram. Once again, don’t cut them all at once. Taking a little extra time to cut always saves time down the road. And yes, now you have a few more lovely scraps.

So that’s it. All of the cutting is done. You should have the following stacks: binding pieces, long sashing pieces, short sashing fabrics, and small squares (or 2 stacks of small squares if you don’t want one super tall stack).


So I can hear you asking already, why are we starting with the borders. I will tell you why. Because when you finish putting all of your blocks together you will be super excited. Your quilt will be practically finished and you are just going to want to see it all laid out and nice. This is not the time to be sewing a bunch of 2 1/2″ squares together. So we do it first so they will be waiting anxiously for you.
Take all of your 2 1/2″ squares (you should have 184 of them) and mix them up. You want to make sure you get a good random look on your borders. I like to do this by putting them in a zip lock bag, blowing some air in it, sealing it, and then shaking it up. Like the following picture. This is what works for me, if you can randomly pick from a pile, go right ahead. Whatever way works for you.

We will begin by chain piecing the 2 1/2″ squares for the border pieces together (note, you will have extra squares). To do this, pick 2 squares out of the bag, if they are the same, throw one back and pick again. This might be cheating the random factor but I just don’t like the same print next to itself. Place the 2 pieces right sides together, and sew a 1/4 seam down one side. It doesn’t matter which. Note, I don’t use pins on small squares but if you are just starting feel free to use pins. Don’t cut your thread, this is where the chain stitching begins. Just keep feeding the sets of squares through your machine until you have stitched 42 sets.

This is what it should look like: 42 squares all linked together in a fun little pile.

Now go ahead and cut the threads between each square. I always find it is easiest to lay them out in a long row and then cut. I just figure there is less chance of me accidentally cutting the material.

Take 2 sets of 2 squares and set them aside for future use.

Now take your remaining 40 sets of 2 and chain stitch them into sets of 4. Meaning take a set of 2 and place it right sides together onto another set of 2 and then sew 1/4″ seam so you create 4 blocks in a row. Continue this process with all 40 sets. Once again, I try to make sure that I am not putting similar prints next to each other. Just my personal preference 🙂

Go ahead and cut your threads again. Now you should have 20 sets of 4 squares. Set aside 4 sets of 4. We will use them in a few minutes. (Well I guess that depends on how fast you sew.)

Bet you can’t guess what is next. Chain stitch your remaining 16 sets of 4 into 8 sets of 8.

Cut and you now have 8 sets that are 8 squares long. I stopped taking pictures here as I figured you were getting the hang of it.

Take your 8 sets of 8 and chain stitch them into 4 sets of 16. Cut your threads and you now have 4 sets of 16 squares.

Now this is where those blocks that we set aside come in. Chain stitch a set of 4 squares to each row of 16 squares. Cut your threads. Now you have 4 rows of 20 squares.

Last but not least, you are going to retrieve your 2 sets of 2 you set aside. Sew them onto 2 rows of 20 squares. Now you have 2 rows of 20 blocks (your short borders) and 2 rows of 22 blocks. (your long borders.)

Easy enough right. Go ahead and press your borders now. I find it is easiest to just press them all in one direction. Go ahead and set your borders aside to wait patiently for your blocks to be done.


Go back to your bag of squares. Once again, you are going to be chain stitching into sets of 2. Just in case you need a reminder, right sides together, and try to avoid putting similar fabrics together. Go ahead and stitch the remaining 100 squares to make 50 sets of 2squares. Oh ya, you got this chain stitching thing down!

Here is your pile of 50 sets of 2. Go ahead and cut them so they are ready to press.

I am going to tell you how I like to press. I like to press my seams to one side. This way when I make the 4 patch square I can “nest” my seams nicely. If you prefer to press your seams open please do so. It will work just as well.

Now you should have a stack of 50 sets of 2’s nice and pressed. Don’t they look pretty!

Next we are going to create your center blocks of 4. Now your first tendency is going to be to line up the edges, but fight that, remember that in this case, lining up the center seam is far more important than the ends. Now that that has been said, on to the blocks. Place 2 sets of 2 right sides together and “nest” your seams. Meaning, the two should rest right together, side by side, so that when you sew, you get a beautiful perfect point of 4 blocks in the center. Pin your blocks together at the seam. I like to pin all 25 sets of blocks first and then sew. This way my chain stitching goes faster. Chain stitch your 25 sets using your 1/4″ seam. Oh, and don’t sew over pins, it is a bad habit, and a hard one to break, believe me, I know!

Go ahead and cut your threads and then press your seams. I like to press these seams open so that I don’t get bulk issues in the center.

Continue this process with your 25 blocks. Now you have 25 adorable 4 square blocks. Way to go!!


We will start the sashing by sewing on the short sides first. These are the short sides, the 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles.

Line up one sashing, right sides together, along the side of a 4 patch block and sew a 1/4″ seam. Set the matching sashing in a pile next to you. Continue chain stitching all of the first sashings for the 25 blocks.

You should have a pile of 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles and then a long line of 4 patch blocks with one sashing on, attached to the side. Go ahead and cut the threads of your chain stitching.

Now we are going to repeat the process on the opposite side of your four patch block. Take care to make sure you are matching up the same sashing prints. Otherwise you are going to get a much more random look 🙂 Chain stitch your 25 blocks and then cut your threads.

Once again, I like to press my seams out here. If you have a different preference, go right ahead and press them as you prefer.

Now we will add the longer sashing aka the 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles. And once again, make sure to match your print 🙂 …Unless you like random, who am I to squash creative genius? Repeat the same process as the short side sashings, adding one side first to all 25 blocks and then the second side to the 25 blocks.

Okay, this is where I have I wish I could alter a picture. I pressed these seams out but I wish I would have pressed them open. So Press them OPEN. It will avoid bulkiness.

So now you should have 25 amazing blocks, with amazing center points, and amazing beautiful prints! By the way, you are pretty amazing too, and the rest of this you will fly through! Your getting close! … and I use exclamation points too much 🙂


Lay out your blocks according to the following picture. I know it is kind of hard to see the prints but look closely. Or, if you don’t want this exact layout, play around with it until you get the perfect layout for you. Oh how I wish I had one of those nifty felt walls so I didn’t always have to do this part on my floor. Oh well, some day . . .

Now, this is where I abandon chain stitching. Mostly because I really, really, liked this layout and didn’t want to have to try and figure it out again, and once you start picking up several blocks it is easy to forget where they go back. Go ahead and lay the first block in the first row on top of the second block. You’re just basically going to flip it over on top of the second block. Don’t spin it or anything. Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the side where the pen points.

Now lay the first and second block (that are sewn together even though they aren’t in the picture, sorry, my bad) onto the third block and sew a 1/4″ seam where the pen points.

Continue this process with the fourth and fifth blocks until you have the entire first row sewn together. Go ahead and press your seams one direction. But remember which direction because the next row you will press in the opposite direction. This helps to get rid of bulk issues and also makes it so you can nest your seams when you sew your rows together.

Oh, and just a side note, I like to put a pin in my first block of each row. This is just something I learned along the way and it really helps to keep me straight when I get things turned around with sewing and ironing and such.

So go ahead and continue this process with the remaining 4 rows. Make sure again to press each row the opposite way of the row before. So basically left, right, left, right, left. (Do you feel like you are in the army now?)

Now you are ready to sew your rows together. Oh, this is getting exciting! Go ahead and lay row 1 over onto row 2. Do the same with row 4 onto row 5. You are going to pin the top of each row so that when you open it, row 1 will be on top of row 2 and row 4 will be on top of row 4. (Sorry, I should have put the pen in there again, I hope this makes sense.)

You are going to pin these like crazy! Once again, focus on your seams and not on the sides. I like to nest the block seams first (where the 2 blocks are sewn together) and then go back and pin the rest of my seams second. If you have extra bulk go ahead and smooth it down and then put in a vertical pin. This will help take care of those little bulky issues.

Sew the rows together. Make sure to take your pins out as you go. I like to take them out, just before I would run over them. This way my seams don’t shift.

Press your seams (I pressed them open, but you can press them any old way you like). Lay your quilt back out again, use those pins in the first block to help. Now lay row three up onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2. This time you are going to pin the bottom (or the intersection of row 2 and 3). Once you got it all pinned, sew your 1/4″ seam. I know it is tempting to fly right over those pins but trust me. It takes less time to pull them out than to replace your needle.

Press again. Lay your quilt out again. Now fold rows 4 and 5 that you sewed previously onto rows 1,2, and 3. Pin along the intersection of row 3 and 4. Sew and press.

And there it is!! Your 25 blocks all sewn together. Aren’t you happy now to know that your borders are already done and you don’t have to go back to chain piecing?


Lay out your borders: short rows on the top and bottom and long rows on the sides. Make sure that none of your corners end up being the same. It would be a pity to avoid that the entire time and then miss it on the last step.

Lay your short rows onto your pieced blocks on the top and bottom of your quilt. Once again, pin like crazy. I pinned along each seam making sure it matched up with the seams of the blocks. Stitch 1/4″ seam. Press towards your border. (I know, less pictures and more directions, but you are a pro by now, you are probably skipping these words all together 🙂

This is where you are now. Only 2 sides to add and then you are done!! Attach the long sides the same way as the short sides. Pin like crazy, sew, and press towards the border.

Now give the entire quilt top another nice pressing on the top. Stand back and admire!


First you are going to make your binding strip. I know, backwards again. But like before, I find that once I finish quilting my quilt I just want to get it finished asap and I hate having to go back and create the binding strip. So I do it first. Go ahead and pull out those binding pieces (the 2 1/2″ x 10″ rectangles) and create your binding strip. I know that isn’t a whole lot of help if you have never made one but if you don’t know how, check out this amazing tutorial here on the Bake Shop to learn:
Now you are ready to baste, quilt, and bind. Once again, I know that doesn’t really help if you don’t know how. Unfortunately, it would be a tutorial in itself to teach the techniques. So go ahead and surf around for free motion quilting tutorials. Believe me, there are hundreds, that’s how I learned 🙂

You’re done!! You should have something that looks along the lines of this. Now just sit back and enjoy your Snuggly Squares Baby Quilt!

One adorable quilt measuring 42 x 42 (Baby not Included). Happy Quilting!!

Thanks to Madeline for being such a perfect little model and thanks to her mom for being willing to let me take pictures of her beautiful little girl.

Melissa Corry