High Flying Dreams Baby Quilt

1 layer cake of Circa 1934

2/3 yard of Circa 1934 (Red)

1/2 yard of Circa 1934 (Cream)
cotton batting

4 1/4 yards of black quilt binding bias tape

Hi ya’ll! My name is Jennifer Rodriguez from All Things Belle. I’m so excited to share with you my High Flying Dreams baby quilt. I fell in love with Cosmo Cricket’s Circa 1934 fabric line the minute I saw it at Quilt Market earlier this year. I was flooded with ideas of the circus, balloons, and more. It was the perfect fabric to create a retro hot air balloon! I designed this paper pieced foundation quilt with my baby’s first birthday in mind. I wanted something that would be exciting to her eyes and fun for her to cuddle with.

This quilt has a single paper pieced block with a delightful pieced back. You are sure to enjoy the piecing and quilting, while your baby will love the fanciful design! I will briefly go over the basics of paper piece foundation quilting, but I do have a more detailed tutorial here.

Step One: Print out the paper piece block. The pattern can be downloaded here and is also included in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of the post. I suggest coloring in the pattern as a reminder for the fabric you want to use.
Step Two: You will then cut the different lettered sections apart, A from B, etc.
For paper piece foundation quilting, I recommend the following tools:

*old credit card or something of that shape and weight
*rotary cutter
*cutting mat
*extra fine seam ripper
*tape
*iron
*add a 1/4″ ruler
*tweezers
*glue stick

Step Three: Pick out fabrics from the layer cake that you would like to use in the balloon block. Place a small dab of glue on the wrong side of the fabric for A1 and adhere to the back of the paper. The fabric will always be worked on the back of the paper and sewn from the top. Then using your 1/4″ ruler, trim down the piece following the pattern grid.

Step Four: Reduce your stitch length to 1.5 – this will make it much easier to tear off the paper later.
Step Five: Line up the fabric for A2, seams matching A1 and right sides together. Then sew exactly down the line that borders A1 and A2.
Step Six: Press the new seam and again use your 1/4″ ruler to trim the piece down. You will continue in this manner for all sections of the pattern. Again, if you need more assistance with learning how to paper piece, please see my tutorial here. *Remember to use that 1/4″ ruler on every side of the pattern, including the border – that is your seam allowance.
Here is how my pattern lined up after all sections were completed. When you paper piece, your finished project will be a mirror image of your original print out. Do not tear the paper yet; this will help guide you with the next step.
Step Seven: Sew the sections together in order, press, and you can now remove the paper pattern from the back.
Step Eight: Now cut the following lengths from your red and cream fabric.

Red – 8.5″ x 36″

Red – 5.5″ x 36″

Red – 6.5″ x 7.5″

Red – 7.5″ x 21.25″

Cream – 9.5″ x 36″

Cream – 7.0″ x 36″

I have a visual representation of how to piece the top here.

With a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the 8.5″ x 36″ red strip to the 9.5″x 36″ cream strip.

Then sew the other side of the 9.5″ x 36″ cream strip to 5.5″ x 36″ red strip.

Your quilt should now look like the image below.
You will now piece the block into the quilt.

With a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the 6.5″ x 7.5″ red strip to the top of the balloon square. You will match up the 7.5″ sides together.

Now on the bottom off the balloon square, you will match up the 7.5″ x 20.75″ red strip and sew together.

Step Nine:

Pull out 16 pieces from the layer cake to create your pieced back; there will be 4 rows of 4.

I choose the pieces that had numbers and letters. Since this was a quilt for my baby, I wanted fabric that would be visually exciting for her.

With right sides together, sew 4 pieces together with a 1/4″ seam allowance; create a total of 4 rows.

Step Ten:

Play with the placement of the rows. I wanted them to be slightly askew from each other. I placed down my yardstick in the middle so that I could be sure that in the end I would have a 36″ square.

Once you are happy with the end result, pin the rows together and sew together with a 1/4″seam allowance.

Step Eleven:

Create your quilt sandwich (back, batting, and top) and pin baste.
Step Twelve: Quilt as desired. I did minimal quilting in the balloon – just lines in the balloon segments to help create the 3D effect. I also tried to mimic the effect of air, and quilted long,windy air streams throughout the rest of the quilt.

Bind the quilt as desired. I machine bound it with binding bias tape. I knew my girls would be using this quilt frequently, and I wanted something that would stand up to lots of machine washing.
Here it is completed! I do not prewash my quilt fabrics. I love the crinkly soft look that comes from washing after quilting!
Here is the easy, playful pieced back. So much fun!
Up, up, and away..

May your little baby dreams take you to far away places..

One 36″ square baby blanket perfect for dolly picnics, snuggling with a book, or napping in the afternoon.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. I’m very passionate about paper piece foundation quilting, and I really hope that you are encouraged to try it. Thank you so much for spending this time with me and I hope you are encouraged to try paper piecing. It can be so rewarding and fun! If you make a High Flying Dreams quilt, please add it to my Flickr group.

Jennifer Rodriguez

{*All Things Belle*}

ABC Magnets… Easy as 123!

Hello everyone!

 

Yep… its me, Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Sewing. I have something different to introduce to you today and can be a no-sew project if you prefer. This is a great project to involve your school age kids or grandkids with. Or better yet, this a great family project that you all can work on together.

The idea of these magnets hit me when I was working on my Snuggle Play Laugh Love quilt. I noticed when you fuse two fabrics together with Heat N Bond, it makes the fabric rubbery. And I thought why not? Why not see if any one has come up with something like this by making the letters into magnets, and I was surprised that nobody had.  It is another one of those things that stem from my childhood. I remember those plastic ABC magnets on my parent’s refrigerator when I was little. I even had them for my daughter too when she was little. It was always fun to see what words you could come up with. And with today’s technology and social media I added a few extras to add to the fun.

So with out further ado lets get started!

• 1 Charm Pack (Circa 1934 by Cosmo Cricket)
• 1 yard of Cream Garbo #37001 15 (Circa 1934 by Cosmo Cricket)

• 2 1/2 yards of Heat N Bond Lite or two packages of Heat N Bond Lite
• 6- 30 in magnet strips
• 1- Arleen’s Fabric Fusion or any fabric glue of your choice will work.

Decorative stitching on letters and numbers if desired
Along with a storage pouch that includes a 7-inch zipper

To start:

You can either do the cut outs first or wait until you have all your material needs finished before printing and cutting out all the numbers and letters. There will be 70 of them to cut out, so grab a kid or grandkid of school age to help out.

*Helpful tip: Leave the dot attached to the j, i, and ? until you are ready to trace them out. Same goes for the = sign too. This way they will not get lost or thrown out by accident.

Material Needs

1. Take the one yard of fabric and cut out two 10in x width of fabric strips.
2. When you have both 10in x WOF cut out, open up the fabric and cut on the folded line. By doing this you will have four separate panels of fabric to work with.

    3. Take the Heat N Bond and measure to each panel 1/4 of an inch smaller on all sides to prevent any fusing the Heat N Bond onto your ironing board.

   4. Prep both the Heat N Bond and one fabric panel to be ironed on your ironing board.

   5.  On a medium high heat setting for your iron. Press your iron directly onto the paper side of the Heat N Bond and count to six. Continue on pressing until the Heat N Bond is bonded onto the fabric.  *It is best not to have your iron on a steam setting.

   6. Allow the fabric and Heat N Bond to cool before peeling the paper off. It will only take a few minutes to cool.

   

*Continue steps 3-6 for the rest of the panels.

   7. Next arrange the charm squares (eight squares) to your liking on each bonded panel. You will end up using 32 squares out of the pack. Then place on ironing board to be pressed. Allow your iron to set for six seconds before moving around to another spot of the panel.

   8. When the charm squares are bonded to all four panels, grab the cut out letter and numbers.

   9. Take each cut out and strategically place them to your liking on each square for all the panels.

  10. This is not something that I would normally recommend but trace around each template cut out on the right side of the fabric. Once template is trace remove from the panel. When every last template is traced you should have panels that look like the picture below. Then cut out each number and letter from the panels.

Now that you have all the letters, numbers, and extras cut out it is time to get out the magnet strips and fabric glue.

   11. Cut out magnet strips to each desired length needed for each letter and number. Once the strips are cut, peel back the paper on the magnet strip.

   12. Take the fabric glue and place a bead of glue down the middle of the adhesive side of the magnet.

   13. The bead should be thin and not heavy. This way there is no excessive overflow of glue when you press the magnet to the letter or number. * The reason for fabric glue is because the adhesive on the magnet will not hold onto the fabric for a long period of time.

   14. Place magnet onto the letter or number with the adhesive and glue side to the fabric. Make sure you also are placing magnet on the backside of the letter or number. Then allow the magnets to dry.

* The fabric and magnets will curl a bit and that is okay. Once they are completely dry, lightly flex the magnet to straighten them out. They will also straighten out once they are on the refrigerator too! And believe it or not that is the end of putting the magnets together. Keep scrolling for the storage pouch option if you want to.

Storage Pouch Option

 * All seam allowances are 1/4 of an inch unless indicated otherwise.

   1. With leftover yardage, cut the full length of fabric x 6 3/4 inches wide.

   2. Fold fabric down the middle and finger press the fold. Then cut on the fold line.

   3. Place the zipper in the middle of each fabric pieces with the print facing correctly.

  4. Place the zipper facing down on the right side of one of the fabric sides and then sew the zipper and side together. * When stitching near the zipper head, stop with your needle down and lift your foot, unzip the zipper pass the need and foot. Place foot back down and continue sewing.  Repeat and continue to do the same with the other fabric side.

  5. Start with right sides of the fabric together. Line up the bottom edge then sew them together. Once the bottom is finished, sew up the side starting from the bottom up.

  6. Once pouch sides are stitched. Pinch the edges and sew across 3/4 of an inch from the top. Do this on both sides of the pouch.

  7. You should have…something that looks like ears.

  8. Turn pouch outside right and push down on the “ears” so that they flatten on the inside of the pouch.

  9. One completed pouch to store your magnets in. Yes, it is small but all the magnets will fit into it.

 70 fun filled magnets and one pouch to keep them stored in!

Thank you for stopping by. If you do make these magnets I hope you have a good time sharing them with the kids or grandkids.

Take care all!

Jennifer Overstreet

{ghquilting.com}
{ghquilting@hotmail.com}

Puzzled Quilt

Hi Everyone!     I’m Kristy from St. Louis Folk Victorian and this is my very first Moda Bake Shop project.  I’m super excited to have the opportunity to share my PUZZLED Quilt with you, and hope that you’ll grow to love this design as much as I do.  It looks complicated; but let me tell you a secret…it’s goes together pretty easy.

I’m working with Cosmo Cricket’s Circa 1934 today and let me tell you, it’s softer palette certainly has a great vintage vibe.

For Quilt Top:
1 Jelly Roll (minimum 36 pieces)
3/4 yard of a coordinating solid

For Backing:
3 yds of a coordinating print
           -I love pieced backs, so I used 2 yds of one print and 1 yd of another

For Binding:
1/2 yd of a coordinating print

PUZZLED is made from a combination of just 2 shapes

• 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square
• 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle 

Step 1

Let’s start by cutting the 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.  You’ll need a total of 162 squares for this project.

Take the 3/4 yard of coordinating Solid and cut 11 strips measuring 2 1/2″ wide x 42″

Step 2

Now let’s subcut those lengths into squares measuring 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″.
     
 *Once you’ve cut 10 of the 11 strips, you’ll have 160 squares; but as noted above you need 162.  So please note that you only need to cut 2 additional squares out of your last strip.  The balance you can save.

You should have a stack that looks like this.

Step 3

Now, let’s open up that Jelly Roll and select 36 pieces. 

Begin cutting the Jelly Roll strips into lengths measuring 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″.  Each Jelly Roll length should yield 5 rectangles; but cut carefully as it is a tight fit.

Once you are done cutting, you should have a stack that looks like this.

Step 4

Remember when I said earlier that PUZZLED is made from 2 different shapes, well it’s also made from 2 different blocks that are similiar but different.

As you can see, they are built the same way; but Block A includes 5 rows running horizontal and Block B only 4 rows running vertical.

We need to do a little prep work before we start sewing; but I wanted you to understand the blocks that you would be building.

Step 5

Organize all of your rectangles in stacks of 5.  Now comes the hard part…which print/stack should become Block A and which print/stack should become Block B.  You’ll need a total of 18 stacks for each Block.

Organize now and when you are ready to start sewing I’ll be here waiting…

——————–

Step 6

So nice of you to come back. 
Before we start sewing anything together, I want to take a second to mention how important it is to use a precise 1/4″ seam allowance.  If you use any other measurement, your blocks will not line up properly.

Now let’s take all of the rectangles you selected from Block A and let’s start sewing 1 rectange and 1 square right sides together.  I encourage you to chain piece these, because as you will quickly see there are alot of them. 

Step 7

Now before you start chain-piecing the stack for Block B, you’ll need to pull out 1 rectangle from each group, as you only need 4 rectangles per print (remember in the Block diagram above, there are only 4 rows, not 5 for Block B).  Save those extras though, as you can use them on the back or as part of the binding.

Okay, now you can chain-piece the square and rectangle together; but make sure that you keep this group separate from the Block A group.  We wouldn’t want confusion later when assembling the blocks.

Cut the chains and press the block open with seam allowances towards the rectangle.

——————–

Step 8

Let’s start building Block A.  As a reminder, here is what it looks like.  Notice the square moves from left to right and the rectangles are horizontal.

As you can see in the below diagram, you’ve already completed the part highlighted in red, just follow the diagram, sewing each row together, making sure that the square is in the proper position.

You should have a total of 18 blocks.  Press the seams however you would like.

——————–

Step 9

Now, let’s start building Block B.  As a reminder, this is what Block B looks like.  The main difference is that the rectangles are now vertical and the square moves from bottom to top.

As you can see in the below diagram, you’ve already completed the part highlighted in red, just follow the diagram, sewing each column together, making sure that the square is in the proper position.

You should have a total of 18 blocks.  Press the seams however you would like.

——————–

Step 10

Grab all of your blocks and find either a big empty floor or if you are lucky enough to have a design wall, let’s start playing with the layout of color and print.  The diagram below shows you how the blocks fit together alternating Block A and Block B according to the layout below.

Here’s what mine looked like as I was playing with them on the floor.  Feel free to spend all the time that you need trading this block for that block, so long as you keep the overall block layout consistent as shown in the diagram above.

 

Step 11

Once you have established your layout, let’s carefully pick up the first row and sew each block to the one next to it, making sure to match those seams. 

Now that your first row is complete, put it aside.  Let’s pick up Row 2 and sew those blocks together.  Then Row 3, etc.

——————–

Step 12

I want to draw special attention to something before you start sewing each row to the one below it.  What makes the PUZZLED Quilt interesting is the where the seams actually meet up between rows.  In the diagram below, I’ve noted with a pink dot those seams.  As you can see, due to the block construction, the seams alternate.  Just a friendly heads up so you didn’t think something was wrong.

You can now begin sewing each row to the one below it until all 6 rows are finished.  You are now done with your quilt top, make sure that your press those seams flat.

——————–

Step 13

Time to prepare your backing; which you can piece however you wish, maybe adding some of those leftover rectangles in a fun and interesting way, or just make a simple seam in your fabric. 

As you can see in the below photo, I choose to piece mine.

——————–


Step 14

Sandwich your completed backing, batting and quilt top together.

Baste, then quilt however you choose.

Add your binding and you are done.

——————–

A cozy lap sized quilt measuring approx. 52″ x 57″

I hope this tutorial inspires you to make your very own PUZZLED quilt.

Thanks for playing along.

Kristy Daum

{St. Louis Folk Victorian}

1934 Nine Patch

Hi! It’s Jo from Jo’s Country Junction. Here’s my latest quilt project, 1934 Nine Patch. If you are new to quilting or are looking for an easy large quilt, this might be just the pattern that you are looking for. Nine patch blocks sew together quickly to create a beautiful and classic design. The colors of this fabric line, Circa 1934, are SO rich and creamy. The red and gold colors elicit a warm and cozy feel.

Before I get to the instructions, I want to let you know that Fat Quarter Shop is sponsoring a giveaway on my blog, so make sure to stop over to sign up after you’re done here.

Circa 1934 Jelly Roll
2 1/4 yards Circa 1934 Solid Red 37008 11
3 3/8 yards Circa 1934 Solid Cream 37008 15
2 1/2 yards Circa 1934 Solid Gold 37008 13
3/4 yards Circa 1934 Davis Black 37007 14-binding
6 yards Circa 1934 Ginger Sage 37003 12-backing

When making the quilt, I made extra blocks so I would have extras to add a row of nine-patch blocks when piecing together the backing. If you do not want a pieced backing, you will need more backing yardage than is listed above.

Start by making the gold and cream nine patch blocks first.
Cut 31 gold strips- 2.5″ wide.
Cut 38 cream strips- 2.5″ wide.

Sew the strips together in a gold-cream-gold pattern. You will need a total of 8 strip sets like this. Press the seams toward the gold. Sub cut the strips into 122 gold-cream-gold sections that are 2.5″ wide.

Sew the strips together in a cream-gold-cream pattern. You will need a total of 15 strip sets like this. Press the seams towards the gold. Sub cut the strips into 244 cream-gold-cream sections that are 2.5″ wide.

You should now have a stack of pieces like this.

Matching the seams, sew the pieces together to create a nine patch block like the one shown. Press the seams out.

Next make the red nine patch blocks.
Cut 31 red strips. Sub cut the pieces in half.
Cut 8 cream strips. Sub cut into 11″ pieces. If they are slightly smaller don’t worry.
Select 30 of the jelly roll strips. Cut each strip into two- 11″ lengths and one- 21″ length. Keep each set of jelly roll strips together.

Sew a 21″ red strip on each side of the 21″ jelly roll strip. Sew a colored 11″ strip to each side of the cream 11″ strip. When possible, match sew the strips together (keeping the selvage ends next to each other). Press all seams toward the colored jelly roll strip.

Sub cut the pieces into 2.5″ segments. You will end up with 4 of one and 8 of the other. This will make four nine patch blocks. Press all seams toward the colored jelly roll strip.

Assemble into nine patch blocks. Each of the red blocks will have a cream square in the center.

Continue making blocks in the same manner making 124 blocks.

All of the blocks are made. It’s time to assemble them together into rows. Notice that one row starts with a red block. The other starts with a gold block. Create 8 “red” rows and 7 “gold” rows.

Assemble the rows as shown. You will have leftover blocks.

The next step is to create the back. To do this, Cut the backing fabric in half. Remove the selvage edge. Sew the red strips from the jelly roll and another 2.5″ strip cut from the red fabric together into one long strip. Sew it to the one long side of the backing.

Cut an 8″ strip from the remaining backing piece. Sew the 8″ strip to the red of the first backing strip.

Sew some of the remaining blocks together to create a strip equal in length to the backing fabric. Sew the blocks to the 8″ strip. Sew the last backing strip to the blocks.

Quilt as desired.
Cut nine binding strips. Sew together and bind.

90″ x 90″ Quilt
Gracie wasn’t in the mood for a photo shoot with the quilt. The neighbors were shooting off fire crackers and the noise really scares her….poor girl….

Stop over to Jo’s Country Junction, and check out the great giveaway Fat Quarter Shop is sponsoring on my blog….you can check on Gracie too.


Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}