Color Me Happy

color me happy.

Hey yall.

Let’s make table runners, shall we???
& not just any table runners… mix & match table runners.

Not only are they SUPER cute, they’re SUPER quick to make.
{thanks to using the quilt-as-you-go method.}

So let’s get this party started.

1 Frolic jelly roll
1 yard solid binding {sku #7521 376}
2 yards backing {sku #17515 11}


Cut your jelly roll strips in half.
Be a rebel & use scissors.

When you cut your strips, make 2 piles.
{1/2 your strip in one pile & the other 1/2 of your strip in another pile.}
Let’s refer to these as runner #1 pile and runner #2 pile.


From runner #1 pile:

Make 6 color piles.
{mine = cream, aqua, coral, yellow, black & green}

It’s totally okay to oooh & aaah for a minute or two.


Take 3 colors {mine = green, black & yellow} and cut like so:
2 1/2″ x 3″
2 1/2″ x 6″
2 1/2″ x 9″


Now take the last 3 colors {mine = cream, aqua & coral} and cut like so:
2 1/2″ x 4″
2 1/2″ x 7″
2 1/2″ x 10″


You should now have 6 cutesy piles like this.


Pick a pile, any pile.
{I ran with aqua first…I’m totally on an aqua kick these days.}

Start piecing your aqua pieces together {end to end}, alternating your sizes.
Pattern example: 4″, 10″, 7″, 10″, 7″, 4″ etc.
Make your strips about 42″ long.

Do this for all 6 color piles.
Make 2 color strips for each color.
Easy peasy. Promise.


Lay out all 12 strips.
Ain’t it pretty?!?!

Feel free to play with color placement.
Oooh’ing & aaah’ing is optional.


Take 1 yard of your backing fabric and lay it out flat.
Cut & layer a 42-ish” x 26-ish” piece of batting on top of your backing.

Note: I highly suggest using basting spray between the 2 layers.


Remember when we were playing with color placement???
Well take your middle strip & lay it right side up in the middle of your batting.
{mine = black}

Take your next strip & lay in on top of your 1st strip.


Stitch down the right side of your strip.
{you’ll be stitching through the 2 strips, batting & backing.}

Note: I highly suggest ironing each strip open before adding the next one.


Cover the whole right side of your batting using this method.


Now turn your runner & cover the whole left side of your batting.


Your runner should now look something like this.


Trim off all those stragglers.

You’ll need to decide on what size you want your runner to be.
It will obviously be 24 1/2″ wide, so you basically need to figure out the length you want.

{mine = 38″}

You have 2 choices at this point as far as quilting is concerned:
Leave it as is OR quilt it some more.

{i enjoy the quilty look, so i added some modern straight line quilting.}

Now set this runner aside…it’s on to runner #2.


Ain’t she purdy?!?!


Take 1 yard of your backing fabric and lay it out flat.
Cut & layer a 43-ish” x 20-ish” piece of batting on top of your backing.

Note: I highly suggest using basting spray between the 2 layers.


From runner #2 pile:

Note: I didn’t play with color placement for this runner. You can just wing it like I did OR audition your fabrics. Whatever strikes your fancy.

Take your middle strip & lay it right side up in the middle of your batting.
{mine = coral}

Take your next strip & lay in on top of your 1st strip.
Stitch down the right side of your strip.
{you’ll be stitching through the 2 strips, batting & backing.}

Note: I highly suggest ironing each strip open before adding the next one.


Cover the whole runner using this method.


Trim off all those stragglers.

You’ll need to decide on what size you want your runner to be.
It will depend on how many strips you have.
{mine = 21 strips for a 41″ long runner.}


You have 2 choices at this point as far as quilting is concerned: leave it as is OR quilt it some more.
{i enjoy the quilty look, so i added some modern straight line quilting.}

Now you just need to throw the binding on both runners and…



Ubber cute AND ubber simplistic mix & match table runners.


rachel of p.s. i quilt

Frolic’n Butterflies Quilt

Finished Size: 38 1/2″ x 46 1/2″

Hello and Happy Spring. I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska. I’ve been dreaming of a little butterfly quilt for awhile now. When I saw the Frolic line of fabrics – I knew the time had come to hit the drawing board.

I had a great team of gals from the shop that helped me get this project up and fly’n this time. Give a big shout out to Jolene, Connie and Terri for their help in cutting and piecing – and to Janet for super-quick machine quilting and a great backyard for photography.

Now flutter on over to our shop at to see what else we’ve been up to and to snag some Frolic fabrics for your own collection.  Check out our blog at for a little give-away for some Frolic love too.

1 Frolic Charm Pack for Butterfly Wings (Need 32 five inch squares)

3/8 yard Bella Solids Ivory for Background
5/8 yard Frolic Sky Solids for Alternate Blocks
1/4 yard Frolic Bark Solids for Butterfly Body
1/4 yard Frolic Grass Solids for Inner Border
5/8 yard Frolic Large Floral for Outer Border
1/2 yard Frolic Bark Solids for Binding
1 1/2 yards of your favorite print for Backing
The Angler Tool from Pam Bono is helpful, but not required.

*WOF in the instructions below stands for Width of Fabric, or approximately 42″.

*All seam allowances are 1/4″
Ivory for Background: Cut (10) strips 1″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (384) 1″ squares.
Blue for Alternate Blocks: Cut (4) strips 4 1/2″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (31) 4 1/2″ squares.
Brown for Body: Cut (5) strips 1″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (32) 1″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles
Green for Inner Border: Cut (4) strips 1 1/2″ x WOF.
Large print for Outer Border: Cut (4) strips 4 1/2″ x WOF.
Brown for Binding: Cut (5) strips 2 1/2″ x WOF.

Choose 32 of the five inch charm squares to use for butterfly wings. I choose the prints with the most color so that they would show up best against the ivory bella background. Save the remaining squares for other projects.

In the examples below, I’m just cutting through one charm square to best illustrate the steps – but feel free to cut through as many layers are you are comfortable. I usually cut through 4 layers at a time.

Cut each charm square into (2) rectangles 2 1/4″ x 5″ each. You will have a small scrap left over.

Cut each of the rectangles into (1) 2 1/4″ x 2 3/4″ rectangle and (1) 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ square.

The trickiest part of this quilt is being sure to pay careful attention to the orientation of the wing sections while you are sewing. The wings will be mirror images of each other. Position an ivory 1″ square on the corners of the 4 wing sections as shown in the photo below.

Tape the Angler tool by Pam Bono to your sewing machine following the instructions in the package. This tool is the handiest little invention for sewing corners squares ever! You simply tape the guide to your sewing machine, then you can align the point of the corner square with the line on the guide. Sew diagonally across the ivory square, using the center line on the guide for placement.

*If you don’t have The Angler, you can draw a diagonal line across the back of the ivory squares. Stitch on the drawn lines.

Continue stitching the corner squares. To save time, I like to chain all my pieces together. The chain makes it easy to pick up all the pieces and head to my cutting and ironing board too.

Repeat the process on the remaining two corners of the butterfly wings, being very careful that you are sewing the ivory corners squares to the correct side of the wing.

Double-check to be sure the ivory squares are sewn to the correct corners, then trim each seam allowance to 1/4″.

Press the seam allowances towards the butterfly wing fabric, EXCEPT for the seams on the middle side of the small wings. By pressing these seams toward the background fabric, the seams for the two wing sections will neatly “nest” together when joining those sections. Just one of those little details that is worth the effort for a smooth finished project.

Sew the two sections together for each side of the wings.

Sew the wing sections to either side of the body section. Be careful to try to match up the position of the horizontal seam between the wings.

Press seams towards the body. Now is a good time to give your butterflies a little mist of Mary Ellen’s Best Press or magic sizing. This will help your butterflies lay nice and flat when you join your blocks together.

Repeat to make 32 butterflies. The block should measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ at this point. Square up blocks as necessary.

Arrange butterfly blocks and the blue alternate blocks in 9 rows of 7 blocks each.

Sew the blocks into rows. Press seams towards the alternate blocks.

Join the rows together. The quilt center should now measure 28 1/2″ x 36 1/2″.

Be sure to measure your quilt before cutting borders to size. Due to individual differences in sewing, your quilt may measure slightly different – cut borders to fit your measurements.

Cut two inner border pieces to 36 1/2″ long. Sew to sides of quilt. Press towards borders.

Cut two inner border pieces to 30 1/2″ long. Sew to top and bottom of quilt. Press towards borders.

Cut two outer border lenghts to 38 1/2″. Sew to sides of quilt. Press towards outer border.

Cut two outer border lengths to 38 1/2″. Sew to top and bottom of quilt. Press towards outer border.

Quilt as desired. Our machine quilter outlined the body and wings, then made a flower chain on the alternate blocks.

To bind, join the 5 brown strips end to end diagonally. Fold strip in half lengthwise. Press. Aling raw edges of strip with raw edge of quilt. Sew to quilt, mitering corners. Bring folded edge to back of quilt. Tack in place.

1 Small Quilt: 38 1/2″ x 46 1/2″

Perfect for a baby or toddler quilt, or a nice size to decorate a wall.

Thanks for sewing with us. Enjoy this sweet little Frolic’N quilt. Check out our website or blog for kits and other fun projects.
Julie Geiger
Prairie Point Junction

Whirly Wheels Baby Quilt

Hello again my Moda Lovin’ Friends! I’m Bradie from A Quilty Kind of Girl and QuiltCetera.Com. I have been really looking forward to sharing this quilt with you here on the Bake Shop. I made a quilt just like this for my youngest son last year when he was born. It is super simple and goes together REALLY fast! Perfect for a baby shower or a toddler birthday. I made it slightly bigger than a crib size so the wee man wouldn’t outgrow it too soon. If you would like a kit to make your own Whirly Wheels quilt( <—– click here!!), The Fat Quarter Shop now has them available for purchase!

Here is what you’ll need….
One Frolic Jelly Roll
1.5 yard of wild rose for sashing, inner border, and binding
3/4 yard of sky floral print for outer border
3 yards backing fabric

OPTIONAL – 5 yards jumbo rick rack, sky blue

Begin by separating your jelly strips into their different colorways.

Group your fabrics in sets of three. Choose fabrics with good contrast, so they won’t blend into each other.
This is an example of poor contrast. Although the background fabric is different, the print will make these fabrics blend into each other. Choose different scales of print to really show the contrast.

These are my fabrics matched up in 12 sets of three. Once I have cut fabric for the first 12 blocks, I mix up my strips and choose fabrics for 8 more blocks. I want a total of 20 blocks for this quilt.

From your first set of three fabrics, do a pretend layout of the three fabrics to decide how you want to place them.

Once you decide which fabric will be the center mini pinwheel, cut four squares from this strip measuring 2.5 X 2.5 inches.

The other two fabrics from each set of three will be cut 2.5 X 4.5 inches.

This is the second fabric to be cut 2.5 X 4.5 inches.

Total cuts for a single block:
4 squares fabric one – 2.5 X 2.5 inches
4 rectangles fabric two – 4.5 X 2.5 inches
4 rectangles fabric three – 4.5 X 2.5 inches

Time to put a block together!
Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of all four 2.5 inch squares.
(Now don’t get confused! I’ve gone and switched fabric on you here… you’ll learn why in a sec…)

Place the 2.5 inch squares, right sides facing, at one end of the rectangles. Make sure the outer edges are lined up. CHECK THE DIRECTION OF YOUR DIAGONAL LINE!! It will matter! (Any guesses about where my first fabrics went? In the OOPS pile!) Make sure the diagonal line matches the picture shown.

Sew directly on the marked line.(Keep the square on top so you can see where you need to sew!)

Once you have sewn the patches, trim the outer triangle, leaving a quarter inch. DO NOT cut to the inside of the stitching line!

Press all four of the seams towards the corner triangles.

Match each of the patches with the third fabric as shown. Sew together, with right sides facing.

Place the patches under your needle with the rectangle on the bottom. It is easier to manage the diagonal seam when it is on top. Press seams towards the rectangle.

Pair two of the patches and sew together as shown, to create a top and bottom row. Press the top center seam to the right. Press the bottom center seam to the left.

Pin the center seam and sew the two rows together. Press this final center seam open. Carry on making blocks until you have 20. Square your blocks to measure 8.5 inches by 8.5 inches.
Once you have all 20 blocks, play with the layout until you like the balance of colors. Oops! Are there only 19 blocks there? Wonder what happened to that last one… 😉

You will need 15 vertical sashing strips, each measuring 8.5 inches by 2.5 inches.

Sew your rows together with the sashing strips between the blocks. Press seams towards the sashing strips.

You will need to cut 6 vertical sashing strips measuring 38.5 inches by 2.5 inches. Set two aside for now.

Sew the five rows together with a horizontal sashing strip between. NOTE: This quilt is turned (just to confuse you of course!) So the “horizontal” strips are actually vertical in this pic.

Remember the sashing strips we set aside earlier? Grab them now! You will also need to cut 3 more sashing strips 2.5 inches by WOF. Sew all 3 together and cut TWO strips measuring 48.5 inches by 2.5 inches. Cut two pieces of jumbo rick rack 39.5 inches long. (No that is not a typo. Cut your rick rack a smidge longer. It will be easier this way.) Cut two more pieces of rick rack 49.5 inches long. Center the rick rack over your sashing strips and pin in place. Stitch to the sashing.
I chose to stitch on each side of the rick rack to really hold it down. You could also stitch straight up the center, which would allow the rick rack to be kind of floppy, especially after washing. This can be fun for baby to play with . 🙂

Once you have attached the rick rack to the sashing pieces, you can sew the 48.5 inch sashings to the long sides of the quilt. Cut 4 cornerstones 2.5 inches by 2.5 inches and attach to the ends of the 38.5 inch sashing strips. Attach the short sashings to the short sides of the quilt.
From the border fabric, cut 5 strips, 4.5 inches wide. Trim 2 strips to 4.5 inches by 38.5 inches. Attach to the top and bottom of quilt top. Sew the remaining 3 strips together. From this super long strip, cut TWO strips measuring 4.5 inches by 60 inches. Attach these two border strips to the left and right sides of the quilt top. Your quilt should finish at 50 inches by 60 inches.

Quilt as you like….
and add a baby to complete!

Let Your Imagination Bloom

Hi there, I’m Natalia from Piece N Quilt, you can stop by my blog or website to see what I’m up to each day. I’m so honored to be able to share this quilt with you today.

1/2 Yard Frolic Frolic Swirls Sky – Border

1 Yard Frolic Solids Bark – Border & Binding

1/4 Yard Frolic Swirls Wild Rose – Applique flowers
1/4 Yard Frolic Swirls Daffodil – Applique flowers
1/2 Yard Frolic Solids Tiger Lily -Applique flowers and words
Start out by cutting all of your layer cake squares in 1/2. As show in the image above.
After you cut the layer cake squares in 1/2 you will now cut the rectangles into angles.
Start at the bottom corner and then line the ruler up 2″ from the side, as show in the image above. Cut.
Repeat the process to make your blocks look like the above block.
Now you will lay your blocks out like the image above.
To sew the blocks together you will sew into strips.
First sew the agles to complete strips as show in the image above.
Then you will sew the quilt top together in strips as show in the image above.
Now take your charm charm pack.
Using our starch applique tutorial you will cut circles from 28 of your charm squares.
I used a CD for my large circle template.
You will also cut 4 – 2.5″ circles and 5 – 4″ circles for flower centers.
Applique the circles to the centers of all the full blocks, except for the solid print blocks.
Now take your two fat quarters and your solid print.
From those you will cut out 12 orange, 9 pink & 9 yellow flower petals.
Applique the flower petals onto the solid print blocks.
You will be making 2 – 1/2 blocks and 4 full flower blocks.
*The flower and letter images are included in the printable version.
Now add circles to the centers of all of your flower blocks.
Use the image below for applique placement.
I prefer to use brown thread and a blanket stitch for my applique.
Now you will add your borders.
Note that the top and side borders are smaler than the bottom borders.
Top and side blue borders are cut 2.5″
The bottom blue border is cut 3″
The top and side brown borders are cut 3.5″
The bottom brown border is cut 4.5″
Using your solid orange material you will noww applique the words, Let your imagination bloom.
*Letters for applique are included in the pritable version.
Make two yellow flowers for the two o’s.
Creating a bottom border that looks like the image above.
Now, quilt, bind and then add your buttons to centers of flowers.
1-73″x56″ Let Your Imagination Bloom Quilt.
Thanks for stopping by, don’t forget to use discount code ‘modabakeshop’ at Piece N Quilt to save 10% off your total purchase.

Introducing Owlivia – A Sewing Companion

Hello Moda Bake Shop Followers,

I am Sandy Gervais, a fabric designer for none other than Moda Fabrics. (Yes, it is a dream job!) Lissa at Moda asked me to design a project that could be sold as a kit using my new spring line, Frolic. I thought it would be fun to have a “sewing companion” to set by your machine, or on a shelf nearby.

With that thought Owliva was born. The size of her eyes certainly enables her to “watch” over you. She could also be used as a pincushion – if you can bear to poke her with pins. The kit includes pattern, 6 fabrics, ric rac, cotton batting and two buttons for $12.50 (plus shipping). All you will need to add is your favorite stuffing – batting, play sand, walnut shells, etc.

Go here to order the kit.

6 Frolic Layer Cake squares
10″ of jumbo ric rac
10″ X 10 1/2″ piece of batting
2 pieces of cotton batting 2″ X 2″

Two 5/8″ buttons.
Crushed walnut shells

One sweet sewing companion.

Go here to download and print the template. Note this prints on 11″ X 14″ paper.

1. From your Frolic Layer Cake™ select:
Green leaf print square – cut this to a size of 6 1/2″ X 10″
Solid orange square – cut this to a size of 2 1/4″ X 10″
Brown daisy print square – cut this to a size of 3 1/4″ X 10″
2. With right sides together, stitch these three pieces together along the 10″ sides. Press. (front of owl)

3. Cut a piece of ric rac 10″ long.
4. Center ric rac over middle orange piece.
5. Machine stitch down center of ric rac.

6. Cut a piece of cotton batting 10″ X 10 1/2″.
7. Lay the batting down and place the pieced owl front on top of batting with right side up.

8. Top with the large brown floral Layer Cake™ square, right sides together, matching lower edges.

9. Fold back large brown floral print to the spot where the green print meets the orange solid piece.

10. Insert pins to mark the fold.

11. Lay owl template onto backing fabric.

12. Lay a ruler across the pin markings.
13. Now move your owl template until the dotted line on the owl template is lined up with the ruler.

14. Pin template in place.
15. Using a small machine stitch, stitch ON the template line, leaving an opening at the bottom for turning and stuffing.
16. Tear away the paper.

17. Cut out owl a scant 1/4″ away from stitching line. (It is helpful to leave about a 1/2″ excess in the opening area.)

18. Turn right side out.

19. Stuff firmly with Poly-fil – just up to the middle section.

20. Fill remainder of owl with crushed walnut shells. This will make Owlivia stand straight. (You can purchase crushed walnut shells at a pet store.)

21. Whip stitch opening shut.

22. From your solid yellow Layer Cake™ square cut a 2″ X 2″ square.

23. Fold this in half diagonally, wrong sides together. Finger press.

24. Fold in half diagonally again. Finger press. (beak)

25. Pin beak in place. (see owl template for placement) Stitch beak in place with a running stitch.

26. From the medium brown flowered Layer Cake™ cut out two large flowers. (these are the eyes)

27. From cotton batting cut two 1 1/2″ circles. (eye backing)

28. Center eye over batting circle.
29. Using a running stitch, stitch eye to batting by stitching through all thicknesses around the center of the eye.

30. Thread a long needle with two strands of thread.
31. Sew button in place in center of eye. DO NOT cut thread.

32. Position eye onto owl. Poke needle through hole of button, go through the owl and come out the back of the owl, pulling thread tight so that eye pulls in somewhat.
33. Go back and forth a couple of times and knot thread in back of owl.
34. Repeat for other eye.


Meet Owlivia –Isn’t she a Hoot?

Now go stitch.

From my heart,