"Nough Said" Layer Cake Quilt

 


My daddy was a quiet man who loved the out of doors. He had an uncanny ability to connect with people on a personal level. It still amazes me how he could sit down with someone and within 10 minutes share a bond that reached to their deepest roots. It amazes me, but it isn’t really a surprise. Daddy designed camps. Anyone who ever spent time at a Boy Scout or Girl Scout or Church Camp, anyone who ever drove through a national park or enjoyed the view from the top of a mountain or the side of a lake stood where my Dad stood. He would share that moment with you…in detail…because he had been there.

When Dad met my beloved he knew exactly where G had grown up. The man could describe the drive way and the house and where the trees were planted. Dad had been past it a hundred times on the way into the Sierra National Park.

I have no doubt that he could do it with you, too.

To me, this quilt is all about that – connections. I made it with Reunion by Sweetwater…a fabric line about connections….+’s and x’s connect numbers……the blocks form chains….you get the picture….. ‘Nough Said.

  • 1  Layer Cake (42 10″x10″ charms)
    • for +’s and x’s  
    • I used Reunion by Sweetwater
  • 1 1/2 yards Red
    • for inner border, sashing, and x’s
    • I used the red from A Stitch in Color by Malka Dubrawsky (#23210 16)
  • 1 yard Cream  
    • for sashing
    • I really don’t know what I used, I wasn’t paying attention when I bought it, but you could use Porcelain from Bella Solids (#9900 182) and get the same result.
  • 1 1/2 yards Outer Border
    • I used the news print on porcelain from Reunion (#5471 13)
    • My original plan was to use the grey with dandelion dots (#54762 1)
My original idea for this quilt

  • 4 yards Backing
    • I have to admit it….my taste changed a little between the time I bought the fabric and the time I finished the quilt.  I bought grey chevrons (#5473 1) as my outer border and the news print (#5471 13) as my back.  When I got to the point of adding my borders, I didn’t like that anymore.  So I used the fabric I had on hand for the backing to make the borders.  As a result my backing wasn’t big enough.  What you see is the remainder of my original backing plus 8 charm squares and some of the chevrons.  I kind of like the results.
    • All of this to say – go ahead and be creative!

  • 1/2 yard dark blue
    • for binding
    • Again, I have no idea what I used.  It is dark blue.  Bella Solids, #9900 174, American Blue would do the trick.

This quilt can be viewed in a couple of ways.

It might be 64, 4″ blocks set in an 8 by 8 grid with 2″ sashing all around.  This view helped me a great deal when I was cutting things out.  Not so much when I was piecing it.  (I get intimidated by large numbers.)

A friendlier view is 16, 10″ blocks set in a 4 by 4 grid with  2″ sashing all around.  From this perspective it kind of looks like the “+’s & x’s” quilt that is so popular in blog-land.

Cutting Instructions:

  • From Red
    • Cut 10, 3 1/8″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
      • Sub cut into 128, 3 1/8″ x 3 1/8″ squares
    • Cut 5, 2″ x wof strips
      • Set aside for inner border
    • Cut 3, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
      • Sub cut into 40, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
  • From Cream
    • Cut 9, 2 1/2″ x wof strips
      • Sub cut strips into 144 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
  • From Layer Cake
    • Divide cake into a pile of lights and darks
    • From lights
      • Select 16 charms
      • Cut each charm into 4, 5″ x 5″ squares
    • From darks
      • Select 13 charms
      • Cut each charm into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
      • Keep these squares in sets of 5 matching squares.  They will become +’s later on.
      • Yes, you will have extras.
  • From Outer Border
    • Cut 6, 5 1/2″ x wof strips
      • Set aside for outer border.

Break time!!!  If you have worked all the way through the cutting you need a break.  Go for a walk.  Call your Dad just to say hi.   Pet the dog.  Stretch.  The quilt will go together much more smoothly this way.  Trust me.

Piecing Instructions:

  • 64 Little blocks (& 128 bonus half square triangles)
    • Gather
      • 128, 3 1/8″ x 3 1/8″ red squares
      • 64, 5″ x 5″ light squares from layer cake
    • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each red square
    • Align one red square and one light square, right sides together so that the diagonal line is parallel to the corner.

    • Sew just to the outside edge of the drawn line….closer to the common corner.

    • This step is optional  – I hate tossing extra bits of fabric.  So I’ve included this step.  Call it a bonus block.  Hope over to my blog and see what you can do with them.
      • Draw a second line 1/2 inch to the outside of the stitching you have just done. (the green line)
      • Sew just to the inside of this line…between the blue and green lines along the green line.
      • When you have a minute head over to my blog to see what I did with my bonus blocks.
    • Cut excess, 1/4″ from sewn line between the line and the aligned corner (or between the two sewn lines if you made the bonus hsts).
    • Iron seam allowances toward the red.
    •  Repeat on opposite corner.
    • Trim blocks to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
  • 16 Bigger blocks
    • Gather:
      • 64 little blocks
      • 64 cream 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
      • 80 dark 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares (16 sets of 5 matching squares)
    • Sew each cream square to a dark square.
      • 16 dark squares will be saved for the centers.
    • Iron seam allowances towards the dark squares
    • Keeping dark sets together, and scrambling the light patches in the little blocks, combine patches to make 16 bigger blocks as shown above….more or less, your fabrics will all be different.
  • Connector Units:
    • Gather
      • 80 cream 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
      • 40 red 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
    • Sew 40 red squares to 40 cream squares.
    • Iron seam allowances toward the red.
    • Sew 40 cream squares to the red/cream units, parallel to the seam just sewn, making 40 units that are cream, red, cream.
    • Iron seam allowances toward the red.
  • Rows:
    • At this point it is very helpful to use a design wall….or floor….or bed.  The idea is to find a place where you can set  your blocks out and see what you are doing.
    • Gather
      • 16 big blocks (BB)
      • 40 connector units (CU)
      • 25 sets of 5 matching dark 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares (DS)
    • Arrange 9 alternating rows starting and ending with a sashing row.
      •   At this point I found it easiest to pin the dark squares as a unit of 5, taking them off and adding them to the rows as I needed them.
      • 5 sashing rows
        • 2DS, CU, 3DS, CU, 3DS, CU, 3DS,CU, 2DS 

      • 4 block rows
        • DS/CU/DS, BB, DS/CU/DS, BB, DS/CU/DS, BB, DS/CU/DS, BB, DS/CU/DS
    • Sew 5 sashing rows,
      • ONE at a time to keep things in the right order
      • Don’t worry about ironing your seam allowances just yet.
      • Return each row to design wall/floor/bed as you finish it.
    • Sew 20, DS/CU/DS units together

      • Iron seam allowances toward the DS
      • Return units to your design wall/floor/bed
    • Sew 4 block rows
      • ONE at a time to keep things in the right order
      • Ironing seam allowances towards the DS/CU/DS units
      • Return each row to design wall/floor/bed as you finish it.
    • Sew rows together.
      • Push seam allowances in sashing rows so that they snuggle with the block rows appropriately.
      • Iron seam allowances when finished.

  • Inner Border:
    • Gather
      • 5, 2 x wof red strips
    • The following directions describe how I attach borders.  With gentle handling this works just fine.  If, however, you are apt to tug on your fabric as you sew measure your top and use the binding strips to make 4 long strips of the exact lenghts you need before you sew them on. Skip the rest of this section and proceed to your outer borders which you will do the same way.
    • Sew 2 strips, end for end along short side.
    • Iron seam allowance open
    • Attach this strip to one side of the top.
    • Iron seam allowance toward the border strip.
    • Trim excess
    • Sew excess, end for end along the short side to a wof strip
    • Iron seam allowance open.
    • Attach this strip to side parrallel to the border you have already added.
    • Iron seam allowance toward the border strip.
    • Trim excess
    • Repeat process on other two edges.
  • Outer Border:
    • Gather
      • 6, 5 1/2″ x wof strips of border fabric
    • Refer back to inner border instructions.
  • Layer and Quilt as desired.

I hope you enjoy your quilt!  Please take a photo of it and add it to my group on Flickr.  Feel free to visit me too…there are lots of other fun things going on over at Tops to Treasures.

67″ x 67″ throw, perfect for watching a ball game or snuggling under while reading a good book.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Wheelies Quilt



Hi everyone!  I am Becky of Patchwork Posse and I am totally excited to be here on Moda Bake Shop!  I am always checking out the new patterns over here– and now to be featured is spec-tac!  The Wheelies Quilt is a great way to use up the whole Layer cake.  Add 2 more yards for your background and you are all ready to go.  I chose to go with a dark solid grey for my background which I think plays nicely with the Reunion Layer Cake.

The spokes of the Wheels are simple pinwheels.  Find and match up 4 that share the same color and you will have a more unified pinwheel.  If you don’t want to be so fussy– mix and match and scrap it up!  Because all the squares get used there isn’t enough to finish one more large block so the little 2 leftovers get put right in center square.

1 Layer Cake OR 42 10″ X 10″ squares  {21 light and 21 med/dark}
2 yards background fabric

Separate the lights and darks. You need 21 lights and 21 med/darks

Cut list for sashing: 16–-3” X 17 1/2”   and   4–4 3/4”X 17 1/2”

Cut list for center blocks:  5–3”X 64 and 4–9”X 4 3/4″

Block Instructions:
1) Place a 10″ X 10″ light square on top of a second med/dark square-right sides together. 
2) Draw a line from corner to corner of square. Use a pencil and draw on the wrong side of the fabric 
3) Sew 1/4” from the drawn line on BOTH sides. 
4) Cut on the drawn line and iron- you will now have 2 1/2 square triangles
5) Place one half triangle on top of another half triangle– right sides together Hint: darks should be opposite darks. Lights opposite of lights. 
6) Draw a line from corner to corner of the square– should be perpendicular to the previous sewn seam.
Use a pencil and draw on the wrong side of the fabric. 7) Sew 1/4” from the drawn line on BOTH sides. 
8) Cut on the drawn line and iron.
9) Match up 4 of your squares with one wheel being the same color.
10) Sew the 4 blocks together-repeat for a total of 10 blocks. They will measure 17 1/2” X 17 1/2”
Center Blocks:
1) Sew 9” X 4 3/4” background to each side of the block 
2) Sew 17 1/2” X 4 3/4” background to top and bottom of each block.
3) Repeat for a total of 2 finished blocks
Sewing the top together:
4) Using the layout diagram– sew sashings in between the blocks and at the ends 
5) Sew the blocks with sashings into rows 
6) Sew the sashing strips in between the rows- pin before sewing
7) Sew the rows together Hint: When you are sewing the rows together, match up the sashings from the previous rows. Lay them down right sides together and fold down the top layer just a little to make sure they are lined up correctly. Pin in place and then sew. 


Quilt Size: 80″ X 64″
Block Size:  17 1/2″ X 17 1/2″

Because I have two boys who are needing a new ‘do’ in their room I sewed up another top.
They love them– the grays are a bit off, but who will notice besides me?
I am in love with the dark sashing….and the modern feel.  I don’t usually go that way in designs, but i love it!
Thanks for joining me today!  If you have any questions or comments, ask it!
If you sew up your own Wheelies Quilt let me know. Share it!

{www.patchworkposse.com/blog}

A Touch of Red Quilt


Hi..it’s Jo from Jo’s Country Junction. I’m here with my latest Moda Bake Shop project “A Touch of Red”. The quilt is a giant and finishes at 98″ x 98″ but it only uses two jelly rolls of Sweetwater’s Reunion fabric line. One of the fabrics features newsprint. As I was sewing along I discovered my Iowa town, population of 257, was listed on the fabric. It was a fun coincidence! After you are done reading this tutorial, head on over to my blog for your chance to win two Reunion Jelly Rolls that Kim from The Fat Quarter Shop is giving away.



2 Reunion Jelly Rolls
2.5 yards
Ink 5477 18 Setting Triangles, Corners and Outer Border
3.25 yards Cherry 5476 22* Blocks, Inner Border and Binding
9 yards Cherry 5478 12 Backing


This quilt features 112 8″ finished blocks set on point.

Each block uses 27″ of jelly roll strip. Three blocks can be made with two matching jelly roll strips. To cut the blocks you will need to unroll both jelly rolls. Match the like fabric together. Set the fabric that is the same as the red squares aside.

From each set cut:
6~ 2 1/2″ cuts, 6~ 4 1/2″ cuts, 6~ 6 1/2″ cuts

From the red fabric:
Cut 30 2 1/2″ strips. Sub cut into 448~ 2 1/2″ squares.

Inner border:
Cut 9~1 1/2″ strips


Binding:
Cut 10~ 2 1/2″ strips

Setting Triangles and Outer border:
Cut 3~ 13 1/2″ strips. Sub cut into 8~ 13 1/2″ squares. Cut SIX twice on the diagonals to create 24 setting triangles. Cut the remaining TWO once on the diagonal to create the corner triangles. Cut 10~ 3 1/2″ strips for the outer border.

Let’s start sewing! To make a block you need:

2~ 2 1/2″, 2~ 4 1/2″, 2~ 6 1/2″ pieces from the jelly roll strips and 4~red 2 1/2″ squares.

Sew the 2 1/2″ squares together as shown. Press to the red.


Sew the pieces together to create a four patch. Press.


Sew the 4 1/2″ pieces to each side as shown. Press away from the red


If the 4 1/2″ pieces do not line up with the four patch, you are sewing with an incorrect seam allowance. Take the time to correct it now. If everything matches up continue on with your block.


Sew the remaining 2 1/2″ red squares to the 6 1/2″ pieces. Press away from the red.



Sew the newly created pieces to the block. Note the position of the red pieces.



Create 111 more blocks.



Lay the blocks out in an on point (diagonal) setting. Sew together in diagonal strips. Then sew the strips together.



Trim the edges if necessary. Sew the inner border strips together, pressing seams open. Add to the quilt.



Sew the outer border strips together, press seams open and add them to the quilt.


Piece the quilt backing together. Press. Layer the backing, batting and quilt top. Quilt as desired. Trim. Sew the binding strips together. Bind.





98″ x 98″ quilt

As I was sewing my quilt, I discover one of the fabric prints had newsprint as the design. I picked up and fabric and started reading it only to discover my little town of 257 people was listed on the fabric! It makes the quilt even more special to me. Read more about the discovery and the great giveaway from the Fat Quarter Shop over on my blog, Jo’s Country Junction.




Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}

Line Dance Baby Quilt


Hi, I’m Kathy Mack from Pink Chalk Studio. I’m very excited to share with you this quick and easy baby quilt. A simple project you can complete the day before the baby shower! All you need is one Charm Pack and 1 1/2 yards of background fabric.

  • 1 Charm Pack – Sweetwater Reunion Charm Pack
  • 1.5 yards Background Fabric – Moda Cross Weave Green Orange
  • 5.5 yards Binding – Moda Bella Bias Quilter’s Binding Christmas Red
  • Backing and Batting for a 41″ x 49″ quilt top

1. Cut the following selvage to selvage strips from the background fabric:
Cut (2) strips 2.75″ x WOF (width of fabric)
Cut (4) strips 4″ x WOF
Cut (4) strips 5″ x WOF

2. Layout charm squares into 4 sets containing 7 squares each and 1 set containing 8 squares. Arrange prints for a pleasing balance of color and scale.


3. Piece together charm square sets to create 5 vertical rows. Select your 3 favorite 7 square rows for the quilt center.


4. Place charm square rows on work table. Place 4″ sashing strips between the vertical charm square rows and on either side.


5. Sew a sashing strip to the left side of each vertical charm square row. Trim ends of sashing to match length of charm square rows. Sew rows together.


6. Sew 2.75″ sashing strip to top of quilt center. Trim ends of sashing to match width of quilt center. Press seams open. Repeat on bottom for remaining 2.75″ sashing strip.


7. Fold the remaining 2 charm square rows so they fit on your cutting mat. Cut in half lengthwise to create 2 strips that measure 2.5″ x 32″ (the 7 charm square row) and 2 strips that measure 2.5″ x 36.5″ (the 8 charm square row).


8. Sew a 2.5″ x 36.5″ strip to the left side of quilt center. Press seams open. FLIP the remaining strip so fabrics run in the opposite direction. Sew remaining strip to the right side of the quilt center.

Repeat for top and bottom using the 2.5″ x 32″ strips.
Sew 5″ strips of background fabric to left side of quilt center. Trim ends of border to match length of quilt center. Press seams open. Repeat with another 5″ strip of background fabric on the right side of quilt center.
Repeat for top and bottom using remaining 5″ strips.


9. Layer quilt top, batting and backing. I used a simple, no-mark approach for my quilting. Working from center of quilt out, use a walking foot to stitch a wavy line using the edges of the vertical column charm squares as a guide. Stitch down the center of the 2.5″ strips and finally, stitch down the middle of the borders.



Finished quilt: 41″ x 49″
Kathy Mack

All Purpose Caddy

caddy 92

Hello Everyone! It’s me, Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Quilting and Designs and I could not be more thrilled to introduce to you today my All Purpose Caddy. Why??? Because I absolutely love how it all turned out. Not to mention that this caddy was originally designed with long term hospital patients in mind. I will get more into that story on my blog. What is so great about this caddy is that it can be used for anyone and it has a wonderful bonus for any stitching crafter in mind. The removable Sand Pouch will not only keep the caddy in place it will also keep your pins sharp too! Got to love that! Another thing to love about this caddy is the pocket space. The front pocket has four slots to keep small electronic devices, eyeglasses or small stitchery items. The second pocket has two slots for note pads and what not. Lastly the third pocket is just one big opening for whatever you need. I happen to put my sketch book and Moda Bake Shop’s Fresh Fabric Treats book in there! Pretty neat right?! Did I also mention that this tutorial is written for ambitious beginner and up? Well it is! So give it a go and have fun!

caddy 3
  • One Charm pack – Reunion by Sweetwater
  • 2 yards of  #5476-13 -Reunion collection by Sweetwater
  • 1/2 yard of Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip
  • Foundation paper for paper piecing
  • Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding
  • A small funnel
  • Children’s play sand
  • Painter’s tape
  • Safety pins
  • Marking tools
  • Batting and thread


Nothing fancy just patience and understanding.

This tutorial is very picture heavy. Plus it is also a quilt as you go project.


Cutting Directions:

From the Grip Stop or Jiffy Grip, you will need to cut the material 18 inches x 4 1/2 inches

From the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding, measure and cut 3 pieces 18 inches long.

From the 2 yards of fabric you will need:

1- 7 1/2 inch x wof for the first pocket backing and second pocket front
2- 11 1/2 inch x wof for the second pocket backing and the third pocket’s front and back.
Each of these cuts will be needed to be cut on to the fold line for each individual pocket piece. 

For the Main piece you will need to cut 21 inches x wof. You will then measure 4 1/2 inch away from the fold line. Cut lengthwise and save the folded piece. You will need this for later on in the project.

What you will have remaining is two 16 1/2 inches x 17 inches (ignore the photo on the 17 1/2 inch) pieces for you main piece. Refer to photo below for a visual.

Binding will need to be cut 3 inches wide instead of the normal 2 1/2 inches. Binding will also need to be 70 inches long.

caddy collage 13

This photo below is a reference of all the pieces you will need before the final assembly.

caddy 53

Let’s Begin!

*All photos go from left to right and top to bottom. Refer to all photos below the instructions for a better understanding of this project.

All seams are 1/4 inch unless indicated!

  • Print out both paper-piecing sets x 2 and cut out the paper piecing templates. Set aside. You will have two different set sizes from the printable version of this pattern. Sizes are: 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch and 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch Make sure you are using the paper foundation for all the paper piecing.
  • Open your charm pack and separate into like colorways. Choose 20 different charm squares of your choosing.
  • Take all 20 charm squares and cut them into 1 1/2 inch strips. Then organize them so they will be easy to coordinate while you assemble your paper piecing.
  • Bring back your cut out paper pieces and start coordinating your 1 1/2 inch strips onto the paper pieces. *Any paper pieces with the HST/HSR markings on them will need to be placed face down. Do not piece the 1 1/2 inch strips on the HST/HSR marked side.
  • Organize the rest of the 1 1/2 inch on the remaining paper pieces to your liking.
  • When finished organizing with all the paper pieces, you will need to gather 17- 1 1/2 inch strips that remain from your all ready cut charm squares. Sew them together lengthwise and press seams as you go. This will not have to be paper pieced!  When finished stitching this together you should have a 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch piece. This is your topside to the main piece of the caddy.
caddy collage 1

Paper Piecing:

This will be done for all of your prearranged strips that are on your paper foundations that you already have organized.

  • Place the first strip on the end of your foundation piece.
  • Take the second strip and place it on top of the first strip, right sides together.
  • Stitch on the inside of the paper piece.
  • After stitching open and press.
  • Add the next 1 1/2 inch strip and place it on top of the second 1 1/2 inch strip, again right side together and stitch along the inside. Open and press.
  • Repeat the following for all your paper piecing.
caddy collage 2

Half Square Rectangle (HSR) Assembly
Example shown is the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR.

  • You will need a plain HSR back and a marked HSR piece of your choosing.
  •  With right sides together, leave the plain HSR face up and place the marked HSR from corner to corner
  • Stitch on each of the outer marked lines
  • Cut the center with a rotary cutter or scissors
  • You should have two HSR
  • Open and press
  • Repeat the process for all your HSR’s
caddy collage 3

HSR Line up Assembly

Again using the 3 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR as an example.

  • Align the coordinating HSR’s to your liking
  • Stitch on the length sides
  • Check your work!
  • Remove the paper piecing
  • Repeat the same process for the 7 1/2 inch x 5 inch HSR’s
caddy collage 4

*Something that I did not have pictured is the piecing of the second pocket. Make sure you take the 3 1/2 inch x 17 inch HSR strip and sew it to the length of one of the 7 1/2 x wof pieces. Make sure right sides are together before stitching.

The Quilting Process

You will need all material pieces for Pockets #1, #2, and #3. You will also need the 17 inch x 4 1/2 inch Top Side strip, painter’s tape, safety pins, batting, and some kind of marking tool. *I use a Strait Line tool aka: a chalk line.

  • Match the front pocket to the remaining 7 1/2 inch x wof
  • Take one of the 11 1/2 inch piece for the backing of the second pocket
  • Take two 11 1/2 inch pieces for the third pocket
  • Use the remaining 11 1/2 inch piece for the top side piece.

Step One: Basting 

Example is of Pocket 1. 

  • Take the backing and place it onto a smooth clean surface.
  • Grab the painter’s tape and place a piece on each corner of the backing. Make sure to stretch the material just slightly from one corner to the other for full smoothness of the material.
  • Place the batting over the backing.
  • Grab the painter’s tape again and place a piece of painter’s tape onto each corner. Again make sure to stretch the batting just slightly from one corner to the other for smoothness and full usage of the batting.
  • Place the pocket top piece on top of the batting.
  • Pin all three piece together with the safety pins
  • When finished pinning remove the painter’s tape from the batting and backing. 
  • Set piece a side and repeat the process for the remaining pockets. 

caddy collage 5

Step Two: Marking and Quilting:

Example is of Pocket 2 and the top side piece. 

The way I mark my quilts for quilting is by using a Strait Line tool that can be found in any hardware store.

  • I open up the Strait Line by pulling the hook and string/line and place it to something that it can catch on to. I then find a heavy object to place on top of the hook.
  • I then take the Strait Line and line it up in the center of my quilt top as evenly possible for a straight line marking.
  • Once the line is centered, I then take the Strait Line housing and pull slightly so that the line its self is tight. I then lift up the line and let it snap onto the material. By doing this you will have a marking line to start your straight quilting.  You will only need to do this one time on each piece.
  • To start quilting: Make sure that you have your walking foot on and line up your Strait Line mark to your needle. Start stitching from one side to the other.
  • To continue quilting, line up your walking foot to the last stitched line and use it as your guide for your next quilted straight line. Repeat this process until you reach the edge of the quilt top.
  • Since I start my quilting from the center of my quilt top. I will quilt one side and then start on the other. I do not alternate sides. I just simply roll my piece for easy flow through my machine.
  • Once done with all the quilting to this point square pockets and top side off. All pieces should be 17 inches wide. You will have one more piece to quilt before you are done.
caddy collage 6

Top Side and Main Piece Assembly

You will need the 4 1/2 inch x 18 inch grip stop piece, the top side piece, and the two 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces. You will also need painter’s tape, batting and safety pins.

Step One: The Grip Stop and Top Side

  • Take the grip stop piece and measure width wise to 13 inches. Cut at 13 inches on the length. This should give you a 13 in piece and a 5 inch piece.
  • On the length side of each piece fold over one time 1/4 of an inch and pin.
  •  Stitch a 1/4 inch seam across the folded edges. Remove pins as you go. *Best to keep the gripper side up and to use your walking foot.
  • Take your quilted top side and place it back side up. Place the 5 inch grip stop on top of the topside, gripper side facing up. Then place the 13 inch grip stop on top of the top side, again gripper side facing up. Make sure that both of the 1/4 inch seams are over lapping each other.
  • Stitch width wise on one side of the entire piece, remove pins as you go. Open and keep one pin in to maintain the 1/4 inch edges together.  
caddy collage 7
Step Two: Attaching the Top Side to the Main Piece 
  • With your open Top Side, place one of the 16 1/2 inch x 17 inch pieces on top of each side, pin and stitch. Make sure that you are stitching with the width of the 17 inches to both sides (the grip stop side and the quilted top side).  
  • After stitching both pieces together fold the over the top side and main piece so that they are one piece.
  • Stitch along the bottom of the top side. This creates the pocket opening for the sand pouch.
  • Prepare main piece for quilting. Repeat the same process as for the pockets. With the exception of starting your quilting guide from the seams (bottom) of the Top Side, stitch and work your way down to the end.
caddy collage 8

Sand Pouch Assembly

You will need the folded  4 1/2 inch x 17 inch cut away piece that you cut from the main piece. *Make sure you backstitch all your stitches on this piece!

  • Make sure the right side of the fabric is folded together so that you see the wrong side of the fabric when you start stitching.
  • Start at the fold and stitch starting length wise about 1 1/2 inch and then stop.
  • Lift up your foot and needle, move the piece down to make a 1 inch opening. Place needle and foot back down and continue to start stitching.
  • When you get to a corner lift your foot up pivot the piece. Then lift your foot down and continue stitching. Repeat for the process for the next corner.
  • Clip all four corners.
  • Turn the sand pouch with the right side of the fabric facing out.
  • Then take a thin rod and gently poke out the corners for pointed edges/corners. (I realize that the photos are switched around in this process. My apologies!)
  • Take a small funnel and place it in the 1 in opening.
  • Hold funnel and pouch while pouring sand into the funnel.
  • Fill the pouch half way to 3/4 full. But do not fill it all the way. The sand pouch will not fit into the top side if it is completely full. Plus you have to close the opening. 
  • You can either hand stitch the opening or machine stitch the opening. If machine stitching use a zig zag stitch on the opening edge of the sand pouch.
  • Since sand can hold moisture, place the sand pouch in a warm dry area of your living space. This will take a couple of days to dry.
caddy collage 9

Adding the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding

You will need the 3 – 18 inch cut Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding for Pockets #1, #2, and #3.

  • Add the Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding to the top of each pocket.
  • Bind as you normally would bind you entire quilt.
  • If you have never used Wright’s Double Fold Bias Tape Binding before you can refer to my tutorial page on my blog.
  • Clip off the excess ends of the binding.
caddy collage 10

Pocket Assembly

Make sure that all pockets are lined up at the bottom before stitching!

  • Take Pocket #1 and place it on top of Pocket #2. Pin pockets together.
  • Stitch in the ditch of the first seam and the third seam of Pocket #1.  Do not exceed past the binding and make sure to back stitch at the binding.
  • Take the stitched together Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 and place that on top of Pocket #3. Pin pockets together.
  • Stitch in the ditch of the second seam of Pocket # 1 and Pocket #2 aka: the middle. Stop at Pocket #2’s binding and back stitch.
  • Place the completed stitched pockets and place them on top of the main piece and pin. Make sure the pockets line up on the bottom of the main piece and the main piece and top side are facing right side up.
caddy collage 11

 

Finishing Touches

  • Bind the entire caddy together (I opted out on machine stitching the entire caddy).
  • Place the dried Sand Pouch through the opening of the Grip Stop.
  • Once Sand Pouch is tucked into place distribute the sand in the pouch evenly for better support. 
This is what your finished caddy should look like when you are done.

caddy collage 12

In the end you will have a caddy that has great pocket space and can be placed nearly any where in the home. Not to mention it can hold a fair amount of weight too. It is also a nice must have for long term hospital patients who do not have a ton of room to keep small things stashed away in. Or better yet with the use of the sand pouch as a pincushion you can use it too.

caddy 92

One All Purpose Caddy that measures 20 inches x 17 inches.

If you have any questions or concerns please email me or refer to my blog where I have tutorials, helpful hints, and of course a design blunders page.

Thanks all and I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

c

Jennifer Overstreet
{ghquilting.com}

{ghquilting@hotmail.com}


Class of ’42 Reunion



Greetings!  I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska.  I love all things Sweetwater so as soon as I saw this line, I knew I had to create something to show it off.

Reunion was such a fun name for this fabric collection.  It got me doing a little reminiscing of my own. 

Instead of family reunions though, the fabric made me think of high-school reunions.  Once I had that on my mind, I had to go dig out my collection of high-school yearbooks and take a little trip down memory lane. 

As I was looking at the rows and rows of class photos, I could see rows and rows of layer cake squares lined up just the same way.  Then the perfect name for my quilt popped in my mind  –  Class Reunion!  I picked the year ’42 since the quilt is made with 42 squares from a layer cake.

A special shout-out goes to Cozad’s Wilson Public Library for allowing me to photograph my quilt on their shelves and borrow some color-coordinated yearbooks for my props. Just one of the many blessings of small-town life.

Glad you could take a minute to humor me and listen to my little quilt-naming tangent.  Now let’s dive in and sew!


1 Reunion Layer Cake (42 squares 10″ x 10″)
1 fat quarter OR 1/3 yard of your favorite print for extra blocks
2 yards American Blue Bella Solid for sashing and binding (9900-174)
5 yards print for backing

Quilt Finished Size: 57 1/2″ x 80″

Instructions:

Begin by cutting two 10″ squares from your favorite fat quarter (or 1/3 yard cut). 
Add these two squares to your layer cake for a total of 44 squares.

Choose 30 of the 10″ layer cake squares to use for the large blocks in your quilt.  Set aside for later.

The remaining 14 layer cake squares will be used for the rectangles in your quilt during the next step.

Take the 14 remaining layer cake squares and cut each square into two 4 1/2″ x 10″ rectangles.  I like to trim the pinked edge from the side of my 10″ square, then cut my two rectangles.  Just a personal preference; you can leave it on if you want. 

Leave the pinked edge on the top and bottom sides of the 10″ square.  If you trim if off, your rectangle will be too short.

You’ll now have a total of 28 rectangles 4 1/2″ x 10″.
Prepare your sashing/binding fabric to cut lengthwise strips.  Leave the fabric folded in half lengthwise, just as it comes off the bolt.  Be sure to keep the selvedge edges carefully lined up.  Your fabric will measure approximately 21″ x 72″ as you lay it on your cutting mat.  Now fold the fabric in half crosswise so that you have a piece approximately 21″ x 36″.  This piece will be a more manageable length to handle. 

You should now have four layers of fabric.  Be sure to keep the edges aligned.  If you don’t keep the edges carefully lined up, you’ll have a bow or dip in your strips. 

Trim off the selvedge edges of the fabric.  I cut part of the way down the fabric and then carefully scoot the fabric down to finish cutting the length of the strip.

Cut six 2 1/2″ wide segments lengthwise.  Due to the way the fabric is folded, this will yield a total of twelve strips 2 1/2″ x the LENGTH of the fabric. The strips will be 2 1/2″ x 72″ long.

Eight of the strips will be used for sashing.  The remaining four strips will be used for binding.
Trim the eight sashing strips to 2 1/2″ x 57 1/2″.
Leave the remaining four strips 2 1/2″ x 72″.

I like to arrange all the blocks for my quilt on my floor (or if you are lucky, a design wall) before I begin to sew.  This lets me play around with the fabric placement before I commit to sewing.  Below is a drawing of the completed quilt to help you better visualize my fabric placement before you get started.
  
Arrange (30) of the 10” squares in 5 rows of 6 blocks each.  Position the 2 1/2″ x 57 1/2″ blue sashing strips in between the rows of blocks.  Leave room in between each row to come back and arrange the 4 1/2” x 10” rectangles.  I like to start with the big blocks first to get a feel for how my quilt will look.
Now arrange the (28) 4 1/2” x 10” rectangles into four rows of 7 blocks each.  Stagger the placement of the rectangular blocks so that the seam between those blocks will line up with the center point of the square blocks.  Don’t worry yet that the rectangle rows are longer than the square rows.  We’ll trim up those blocks as soon as we have all the blocks placed where we want them.

Are all the fabrics where you want them now?  Move any around that you want. 
NOW we can trim up the end blocks on the rectangle rows so that everything will all line up.  Take the END block from each of the rectangle rows and trim it to 4 1/2” x 5 1/4”.  
Each rectangle row will now have (5) 4 1/2” x 10” blocks in the center of the row and (1) 4 1/2” x 5 1/4” block on each end. 
Sew the blocks into rows.  Each row should measure 57 1/2”.
Join the rows of blocks and sashing together. 

 
Quilt using your favorite design.  My super-talented, machine quilting friend, Janet Andres, of The Quilter’s Canvas used interlocking circles across the large blocks.  She quilted evenly spaced rows of zig-zags across the rectangle blocks.
Bind using the remaining 2 1/2” strips.  Join strips diagonally end to end. Bind using your favorite method.

One quilt 57 1/2″ x 80″  –  the perfect size for snuggling up on the couch and looking through your own collection of year books.  How about calling up some friends and having your own impromShoptu “reunion.”
 

Maybe you were one of those girls in school who had your own sense of style . . .
Try out this versatile quilt in any of your favorite layer cakes for a change of pace.

Shown below is Curio by Basic Grey.

This quilt works great too in the La Petite Ecole line by French General.  The Alphabet Panel was the perfect size for trimming to 10″ squares for use in some of the large blocks.

Like what you see?  We have kits in the shop at www.prairiepointjunction.com so that you can recreate the look of any of colorways pictured above.

Thanks for taking time to sew with me.

Julie Geiger
{www.PrairiePointJunction.com}

Star Flower Pillow Front


Hi my name is Aylin Öztürk and I’m really happy to be here on Moda Bakeshop. You can find me on Flickr as Nilya2011.

After taking part in a pillow swap in 2011, I’m kind of addicted to making pillows. You can make the craziest pattern with the craziest fabrics in a small piece like a pillow.

I got a beautiful layer cake of Reunion by Sweetwater, from Tacha at Fat Quarterly to make something nice out of it and I just knew what I wanted to do. I made my starflower pillow once in 2011 for a swap and I wanted to make one for our home too. This was the chance!

But I didn’t stop there! I also made a second front for the pillow using the leftover squares from the layer cake.

You can find instructions for making the second pillow front in Issue 8 of Fat Quarterly.

Both patterns require foundation piecing. The templates are located in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.


1 Layer Cake of Reunion by Sweetwater
1/4 yard of solid fabric for the background of flower star
2 squares 20 1/2” of interfacing
2 squares 20 1/2” of lining fabric

Print the pp-pattern A – F 4 times each.

Sort your fabrics as you want them to be next to each other, like a color wheel. I used every fabric only once in the wheel, but it is up to you. Each wedge in the centre of the Star Flower pattern is made up of 3 different fabrics. The Star Flower centre is made up of 12 wedges.

To help in choosing which fabrics you want to use, cut strips of 3 1/2” x 5” from each fabric to see your wheel again with stripes. You might want to change some fabrics, that´s why I cut them all a bit too big. After putting three stripes together to a bundle you should number them, so you will get the fabrics in the right order.

To make the wedges, I first sewed the 3 strips together and then cut them into a triangle shape. Decide how wide each of your strips in the color-wheel-part should be. My strips were 2 1/4” for the outer wheel, 2 1/2” for the middle strip and 3 1/4” for the inner wheel.

Once the strips are sewn together cut them into the wedge shape – 4” wide at the widest part and 7” long to the tip of the triangle. (i.e. an isosceles triangle 4” wide by 7” long).

If you like, you can also paper piece these triangles by making paper templates for each of the wedges and then sewing the fabric to the templates. I find it easier to make the wedges without paper piecing.

Next decide which fabrics your want to use for the zig zags. This is where you will need the paper templates A-F. There are 2 zigs per wedge.

Lay out the wedges and divide the wheel into 4 sections made up of 3 wedges. Going clockwise around the section, an A and B template will be sewn to the first wedge, a C and D template will be sewn to the second wedge, and an E and F template will be sewn to the third wedge.

Note: Remember that when you paper piece your template will be the mirror image of the end result.

Piece each of the templates A – F. Use your chosen fabric for the diagonal strip and background fabric for the other pieces.

TIP: The small triangles are the same for all the templates A – F. Cut a 3” square from background and cut in half diagonally to piece this section.

Sew the A and B templates together and sew to each of the first wedges in each section of your wheel. Once you have sewn the sections together remove the paper from the back.

Sew the C and D templates together and sew to each of the second wedges in each section of your wheel.

Sew the E and F templates together and sew to each of the third wedges in each section of your wheel.

Sew the 3 wedges together in each section to make a quarter of the block. Match up each of the seams when you sew the wedges together.

Repeat with the other sections. Sew 2 quarter blocks together to make two halves. Sew the halves together to make the block.

I always use interfacing for pillows, but perhaps you use batting or prefer to leave your pillows un-quilted. It is up to you.

If you use interfacing, layer your quilt top, interfacing and lining and baste in place. I quilted the circles to fix the 3 layers and echo quilted the zig zag.

Make the pillow top into a pillow using your favourite method or make the second pillow front, as found in Issue 8 of Fat Quarterly, and make a double-sided pillow as I did!

1 pillow 20″ square

Aylin Öztürk
{Nilya2011}