Scrappy Scrunchies

Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts with a cute quick project for the girls on your Christmas list! These would make great stocking stuffers! I have to admit, I have a lot of hair scrunchies and I wear them often! They are easy and fun to make to coordinate with different outfits/holidays ūüôā Stop by my website where I will be having a giveaway for some of these adorable scrunchies AND a mini charm pack so someone can make a couple of their own!

For EACH scrunchie, you will need: 

  • 20 Moda Candy pieces (2¬Ĺ” squares) – I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater, ‘From Outside In’ by Malka Dubrawski, and ‘Grant Park’ by Minick and Simpson
  • 7″ to 8” of ‚Öú” wide elastic¬†

This project works with other precuts, as well. Substitute the 20 Moda Candy pieces with:

  • 5 charm squares¬†
  • 1 jelly roll strip
  • Half of a dessert roll strip¬†

  • 2/3 yard lace or ric-rac for each scrunchie

 If you are using mini charms, sew your 20 mini charms into two rows of 10 mini charms and press.

If you are going to use lace or ric-rack, cut to length of your pieced strips and lay on one edge of the pieced strip with the edge you want showing facing IN and far enough from the edge that your 1/4” seam will not hide it all in the seam.

The large ric-rac works well as you can line it up JUST inside of the edge and 1/4” seam is pretty much right down the center of the ric-rac then.

Sew your 1/4” seam to encase the lace or ric-rac. ¬†Press with right sides out.

¬†Optional: top stitch with a scant 1/8” seam

Now, you are going to make a tube with your strips.

Using a 1/4” seam, stitch your strips to form a tube.

Here is where it might get a little confusing.  Trust me, this works if you follow closely.  with the tube laying flat, take the center of the top of the tube and fold it in thirds.  You are just folding this to get it out of the way to stitch the bottom portion together without getting the top portion in the seam.

Now take the bottom section and fold it right sides together (you will be encasing the part you folded in thirds)

Now, start stitching your 1/4” seam, making SURE not to catch the inside material, you are only stitching the outside 2 edges together.

Once you get a few inches, you will need to start pulling the center out from the tube.

Keeping your needle down, just start pulling the center out and forward.  You might have to help it along near the rear of the needle too.  Line up the new edges you pulled through and continue sewing.

Sew a few inches, pull out a few inches…..

Continue sewing until you have a small opening 2-3” left. ¬†Backstitch. ¬†I know this seems confusing…. I, too, was unsure this was going to work when I sewed my first one. ¬†But, believe me, it works! ¬†And, the next one will be much easier after you ‘get’ it ūüôā

Pull the whole fabric tube right side out.  The opening will be to feed the elastic through.

Totally optional – press your fabric tube.

Feed your elastic through the tube and tie the ends, then stitch the opening closed with as narrow seam as you can.

Viola!  One super cute scrappy scrunchie!  I have tried several different ways to sew scrunchies over the years, but this is by far my favorite way.

Or maybe two?

Or threeeeee???? ¬†I can’t stop! ¬†This one was made with a jelly roll strip (cut in half at the fold, selvedges removed, then sewn in the same manner as the scrappy one).

One (or fifteen!) super cute hair scrunchie!

Head over to my website at Cascade Quilts to enter my giveaway for some of these scrunchies and a mini charm pack so you can make your own.

Anasazi Medallion Quilt

I am honored to be a part of Moda Bake Shop.¬† This is my first post and I can’t wait to show you my finished project!¬†¬†As a child, our family took many vacations to southern Utah and the Four-Corners area of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona.¬† One of my favorite places to visit was Mesa Verde National Park–a spectacular area of canyons where the native Anasazi Indians “Ancient Ones” built¬†their homes¬†in¬†the cliffs.¬†¬† In honor of this, I decided to name my quilt Anasazi Medallion as the layout takes me back to those fun camping trips.

1 Dessert Roll (For this quilt I used Moda Ombres Marble Dots collection)
1 Jelly Roll for the borders (I also used Moda Ombres Marble Dots)
2 1/2 yards white fabric for the medallion setting and inner border (I also used Moda Marble Dots)
4 Yards Backing
3/4 Yard Binding (I also used Moda Marble Dots)

 Center Medallion:

Unroll your dessert roll and pair 10 fabrics strips according to your liking.   In the sample quilt, I aligned the fabric color with the color adjacent to it in the dessert roll.  To maintain the color placement value of the ombre fabric, align the white selvage edges together so that the dark hues align with similar color values.

Sew two coordinated strips together, pressing all seams toward the dark fabric.  Then cut these strips into squares measuring 9 1/2 inches.  Each strip will yield 4 squares.  You will need a total of 18 squares.

From the 2 1/2 yards of white fabric, cut the inner border first from the lengthwise grain.  Cut four strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long.  Reserve these strips to apply to the center patchwork medallion once it has been completed.

From the remaining white fabric, cut the medallion setting squares.  Rotary cut 6 strips measuring 9 1/2 inches wide, then cut these into 9 1/2 inch squares. You will need a total of 18 squares. Draw a diagonal line down the center of each of these.

Layer one pieced pieced square with a white square on top, right sides together.  Sew a 1/4 inch seam allowance down both sides of the diagonal line on the white square.

Cut these in half along the drawn line and press seams toward the colored fabric.  This will yield 36 blocks for the center medallion.  Refer to the placement diagram for the correct orientation of these blocks in the medallion.


Unroll your jelly roll and pair fabrics according to your liking.  In the sample quilt, I aligned the fabric strip with the color adjacent to it in the dessert roll.  To maintain the color placement value of the ombre fabric, align the white selvage edges together so that the dark hues align with similar color values.  Sew all all 2 1/2 inch strips together in rainbow order.  Rotary cut these into 6 inch widths.  14 rainbow repeats are needed, 4 for the top border, 4 for the bottom border, 3 for the right border and 3 for the left border.

Quilt Top Assembly Diagram:

Add the borders to your quilt top starting with the inner white strips first, then your completed rainbow repeat borders.

70 inches square quilt top.

I just love the vibrant colors in these Moda Marble basics dessert and jelly rolls .  Their colors are as vivid as my Zinnias in my garden!  Wow!  These fabrics are sure to make any project pop with awesome color.

Note: 1 Dessert Roll contains enough 5 inch strips to create enough squares for two center medallions.

Happy Quilting!

Shannon Mower

Cobblestone Path Quilt

Hi everyone, my name is Pauline Francis and I blog over at¬†Quilt n Queen. ¬†¬†I’m happy to be back to share with you my second recipe for the Moda Bake Shop. ¬†This recipe is¬†super fast and easy and makes a lap size quilt. ¬†This is my new ‘go to‘ pattern to make a donation quilt or as I like to call them…comfort quilts.¬†¬†With careful cutting I was able to cut enough blocks from one Dessert roll to make two lap size quilts. ¬†Do you know what a Moda Dessert Roll is? ¬†It’s 20 strips of fabric that are 5 inches wide and 44″ in length, tied in a roll with a Moda twill ribbon. ¬†Have you every used a Dessert Roll? ¬†¬†Let’s get started…you will need…

1 Marble Ombre Dessert Roll 9883DR
2 yards of Bella White 9900 98 for sashing and borders
3 yards Marble Ombre Dot Lime 9883 17¬†for backing¬†and binding. ¬†I was going to use the pink but I had enough fabric left from squaring up my quilt after it was quilted to make the binding…I will use the pink in another¬†Marble Ombre Dots¬†project. ¬†It’s a Moda basic you are going to love.

  • 1/4” seam allowance throughout
  • remove salvages before cutting strips and rectangles


1. From the Moda Bella White cut:

  • 14 strips lengthwise 2.5″ x 72″, set 10 strips aside for sashing and borders
  • 50 rectangles 2.5″ x 5″¬†from the remaining 4 strips
2. From the Dessert Roll select 10 different strips and cut:
  • 24 rectangles 9.5″ x 5″¬†
  • 25 rectangles 5.5″ x 5″

1.¬†With right sides together chain piece the 5″ edge of a Bella white rectangle to both 5″ ends of the 5.5″ x 5″ rectangle. ¬†

2. Set the seams and press the seams towards the dark. ¬†I will call this block “A”.

3. Once you have your pieced blocks pressed you will make 7 rows with 7 blocks in each row. ¬†Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 will start with an “A” block. ¬†Rows 2, 4, and 6 will start with the 9.5″ x 5″ rectangle followed by an “A” block. ¬†Arrange the blocks to your liking.

4. ¬†Measure the length of your pieced strips…¬†from the 10 strips you set aside for sashing and borders cut 8 of them the length of your pieced strips. ¬†They should all measure approximately ¬†63.5 inches. ¬†The 2 remaining strips are for the top and bottom border.

TIP: ¬†I pin both ends first, then the middle of the strip and then I pin the rest, always dividing the space in half. ¬† I would say I am a ‘pinner’…it is faster to pin than to unstitch. ¬†When I attach my sashing to the pieced block strips, I pin RST…with the sashing strip on the bottom and sew with the sashing strip next to the sewing machine. ¬†The pieced strip is on the top…that way you can see the seams and do not have any of the seams changing direction under your presser foot.

The picture below is another version of the quilt using Bella Black for the sashing and borders.  The completed quilt is pictured at the end of the tutorial.

5. ¬†Stitch the side borders and the sashings to the pieced strips. ¬†Press the seams towards the sashing/border…it just lays better.

6. ¬†Now it is time to stitch the vertical strips together. ¬† Align the seams so they will nest. ¬†Your smaller block will be centered with the rectangle when the vertical strips are stitched together…again stitch with the pieced block strip on the top and the sashing next to the sewing machine.
7. ¬†Stitch the vertical strips together…press seams towards the sashing. I like to stitch strips 1 & 2 together…then 3 & 4 together…5 & 6 and lastly 7 & outer border. ¬† ¬†Set the seams and press towards the sashing. ¬†Then I join 1 & 2 with 3 & 4…and 5 & 6 with 7. ¬†Then 1 2 3 & 4 with 5 6 & 7. ¬†Voila, you are almost finished…the only step left to do is add the top and bottom borders. ¬†Measure your quilt top a few inches from the top, in the middle and a few inches from the bottom. ¬†The measurements should be approximately 48.5 inches. ¬†Attach top and bottom borders.

8. Quilt and bind as desired.  

…and a view of the back…

I love the ombre look…I was able to line up the binding to match the shading of the backing. ¬†

It is hard to pick a favorite…I love all three on the Cobblestone quilts hanging on the line. ¬†

The middle one is made with Kate Spain’s Honey Honey and Bella white. ¬† I used the left over Dessert roll pieces to make a pieced backing and a scrappy binding. ¬†

The one on the left is made with the other half of the Marble Ombre Dots Dessert Roll with Bella Black for the sashing and backing.  

The binding is Bella Black and I added piping using Marble Ombre Dots Lime, the quilting was done with a variegated thread.

A lap size quilt approximately 48″ x 68″. ¬†The dark one is perfect for a picnic.

Thanks for stopping by the Moda Bakeshop today to check out my recipe.  It has been a lot of fun baking with Moda.  I would love for you to stop by and visit my blog.  

Have a wonderful wonderful day!!

Happy stitching,  
Pauline Francis

Cushion Couture

You know what they say about great minds, right? ¬†So I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised when we found out that we were both planning pillow tutorials for the Moda Bake Shop … using the same fabric line! ¬†We decided to join forces and create one mega tutorial. ¬†The Jaybirdquilts / Quilt Dad collaboration was born, and we were able to inspire one another to put forth the best collection of pillow patterns possible. ¬†Think of it like chocolate & peanut butter… great alone… but even better¬†together!!

So today we have tutorials for you for pillows. ¬†Lots and lots (and lots) of pillows. ¬†Why? ¬†Because we LOVE pillows! ¬†They’re relatively quick and easy to make, they let you integrate your favorite quilting fabrics into your home decor, they’re functional and, let’s face it, they’re FUN! ¬†And what could be more fun that pillows made from the awesome debut line of fabric for the design team at Sweetwater, Authentic?

The best part is that these tutorials are for pillow covers — slipcovers, if you will. ¬†They’re easy to change out with your decor, so imagine sets of these covers in your favorite seasonal or holiday fabrics… or even just a new set for any reason!

The other great thing is just how versatile these tutorials are. ¬†You can make multiple versions from the same tutorial…. & with different fabric selections and placement each can look totally different! ¬†We encourage you to mix & match. ¬†Most of all, have fun. ¬†We’d love to see your finished pillows. ¬†Don’t forget to post them to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr pool!

here are all 6 pillows.
we numbered them to make your life a bit easier!

Pillows # 1 & 2
Layer Cake
Jelly Roll
Dessert Roll
Muslin for backings – Yardage will depend on the width of the muslin you use. ¬†For each pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″. ¬†For this project I used a premium muslin in a creamy color.


Pillows # 3-6
Layer Cake
Assorted Authentic yardage for¬†backings –¬†Yardage will depend on what fabric you choose.
-For the largest pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″. ¬†I used one yard of cream authentic canvas for this. {The canvas is 58″ wide}
-For the 18″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 22″ x 18.5″. ¬†I used 2/3 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.

-For the 16″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 20″ x 16.5″. ¬†I used 1/2 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.
-For the 14″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 18″ x 14.5″. ¬†I used 1/2 a yard of ¬†a cream print from authentic for this.

Pillows 1 & 2

The two pillows I created are each a whopping 27″ square. I was shopping for pillow forms (for another project) when I came across these huge 27″ pillows. I immediately knew I wanted to make something large. My inspiration came from my children, who love to lounge around on the floor while watching TV, and the idea for these “playroom pillows” was born. I knew right away that Authentic by Sweetwater was the perfect fabric fit for this project.
I think these pillows would be great for anything from a nursery to a kids’ room to a teen hangout to a college dorm. ¬†Oh yeah, and it should go without saying that they’d be great for grown-up decor, too! ¬†Customize them with the fabrics that fit your needs best. I’d love to see what you make!

John – Quilt Dad

PILLOW #1 – Modern Medallion Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

The first design is my modern take on a more traditional medallion-style quilt. I love the idea of building a pattern from the center, border by border and bit by bit. I updated the design a bit to include some of my favorite “building blocks” and give it a fresh look. While each component is fairly simple, the overall effect of the finished pillow looks complex.
1. Center square
To begin, select two jelly roll strips: one of a featured print and one of a background print. The background print should also be one that is included in the dessert roll. Pull out the dessert roll strip that matches the background print jelly roll strip.
You should now have 2 jelly roll strips and a dessert roll strip.
From the feature print jelly roll strip, cut two 2″ squares and a 2″ x 5″ rectangle.
From the background print jelly roll strip, cut four 2″ squares.
Arrange as follows:
Sew each row together, and then sew the three rows together into a square block.
From the dessert roll strip, cut two 4.5″ squares. Then cut each square in half on the diagonal, resulting in four triangles.
Arrange the four triangles as follows, and then sew the triangles to the block. I sew the triangles to two opposing sides first and press before attaching the other two.
When all four triangles are attached, square the center block up to 6.5″.
2. First border
Select three jelly roll strips. From each, cut three rectangles 2.5″ x 3.5″ each. You should have 12 total rectangles — four of each print.
Arrange the rectangles as follows:
Sew each set of three rectangles together and press, but do not attach them to the center block yet.
Select two more jelly roll strips. From each, cut 18 1.5″ squares.
Arrange the 1.5″ squares into four nine-patch blocks. Sew the nine-patch blocks together.
You now have all of your components to assemble your first border: a top row containing two of the nine-patch blocks on its ends; a middle row with your center block in the middle position; and a bottom row that mirrors the top. Sew each row together, and then sew the rows together. Your pillow top should now measure 12.5″ square.
3. Second border
Your second border will be fairly simple. Select two jelly roll strips of the same print. From each, cut a 2.5″ x 12.5″ strip and a 2.5″ x 16.5″ strip, for a total of four pieces.
Attach the 12.5″ strips to the top and bottom of your pillow cover and press. Then attach the 16.5″ strips to the left and right sides of your pillow cover and press.
Your pillow cover should now measure 16.5″ square.
4. Third border – Flying Geese
The third border is comprised of 40 flying geese units. Each flying geese unit measures 2.5″ x 4.5″.
Cut 40 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. These will be the prints that will be featured in your flying geese, so keep that in mind when selecting your prints. From the Authentic line, I selected the jelly roll strips featuring words, newsprint, and numbers.
Cut 80 2.5″ squares from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. I restricted mine to three different prints and, unlike the rectangles we just cut, these are meant to be the background against which your featured prints can pop. I selected subtle & small prints in the soft green hues.
Assemble your 40 flying geese units. I use a method similar to the one described here.
Arrange the flying geese around your pillow cover as seen in the photo of the pillow. Sew the 8 flying geese units that border the top of the pillow together, press, and attach to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 8 flying geese units that border the bottom of the pillow.
Sew the 12 flying geese units that border the left side of the pillow together, press, and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 12 flying geese units that border the right side of the pillow.
5. Fourth (and final) border
Your final border will be another fairly simple one. From a variety of your leftover jelly roll strip scraps, cut a total of 26 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles. Sew six of them together on the short ends, creating a long 2.5″ x 24.5″ strip. Attach it to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat with another six rectangles and attach to the bottom edge of the pillow.
Repeat with another seven rectangles and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Do it one more time with the final seven rectangles and attach it to the right edge of the pillow.
Your pillow cover now measures 28.5″ square. Trim it down to 27.5″ square.
6. Quilt the pillow top
I prefer for my pillow covers to be quilted. To do this, I cut a piece of batting 27.5″ square and spray basted my pillow cover to the batting. I then free-motion quilted the entire pillow cover with an all-over meandering pattern in a coordinated thread color. You do not need a backing layer for this quilted piece — it’s just fine with the batting exposed on the back.
7. Create the envelope back
Create an envelope back for your pillow using two pieces of backing fabric measuring 27.5″ x 32″ each. Fold each piece in half so that it measures 27.5″ x 16″ and press the fold. On the backing piece that will show the exposed fold, machine attach a binding strip made from a jelly roll strip that is 27.5″ in length.
8. Assemble the pillow
Layer the pieces with the pillow top face up first, then the backing piece with the binding next (aligning the raw edges to the top, left, and right edges of the pillow), and finally the other backing piece (aligning the raw edges to the bottom, left, and right edges of the pillow).
Pin around all four sides and sew all layers together with a 1/4″ seam. I like to go around the pillow twice for added reinforcement.
Turn the pillow inside out through the envelope backing and insert your pillow form.

PILLOW #2 – Offset Stars Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

This next pillow combines two of my favorite blocks: the half-square triangle and the wonky (or liberated, or maverick) star. I love the seemingly random appearance of the two stars, slightly offset, against the backdrop of classic triangles. By chain-piecing and employing liberated block-making techniques, this pillow cover came together quickly.
1. Make your HST’s.
To start select three dessert roll strips that will serve as the background for your pillow. As the background, these prints should be light & subtle. From the Authentic line, I selected three of the beige prints.
From each dessert roll strip, cut 11 3 7/8″ squares. You should have a total of 33 3 7/8″ squares. (Note: you only need 32, so one of these squares will be leftover when you assemble your HST’s.)
Select 8 layer cake squares. Unlike the dessert roll strips, these will serve as the featured fabrics of the pillow. They should contrast nicely with the background squares that you just cut.
From each layer cake square, cut four 3 7/8″ squares. You will have a total of 32 3 7/8″ squares.
Here’s a look at what you should have cut by now:
Using 32 of your background squares and 32 of your focus fabric squares, make 64 HST units. I use this tutorial. Your HST’s should finish at 3.5″ each.
2. Make your star units
From your layer cake & dessert roll, select two groupings of three prints to create your star units. Each grouping should contain a center print and a coordinating print for the star points (from the layer cake), and a contrasting / neutral print for the background (from the dessert roll).
Here is what you will need for each (quantities are per star):
  • for the star center: one 3.5″ square
  • for the star points: four 3.5″ squares, cut in half on the diagonal
  • for the background: eight 3.5″ squares
Assemble your wonky star units. I use the technique outlined in the tutorial found here (but with the measurements I specified above).
3. Lay out the units and assemble
Lay out the entire pillow top in an eye-pleasing way. Arrange all of the HST’s with the feature fabric and the background fabric aligned in the same direction. If you think about the layout as a grid, the star units will take the place of nine HST units in your design. You can see where I placed my offset stars in my design, but I encourage you to lay it out in a way that feels right to you.
Sew the pillow top together row by row. The pillow top should finish at 27.5″ square.
See above for instructions on quilting and backing your pillow cover.

I think of pillows as if they are mini quilts… they really do offer us the ability to experiment and push ourself to try something new. ¬†At the same time… they don’t have to be¬†complicated… or take a lot of fabric! ¬†Simplicity was the inspiration for my pillows…. I like to change decor often… and having bold graphic pillows… really helps to do that! ¬†I have lots of green in my house… so authentic was the perfect fabric choice! ¬†I hope you enjoy these simple… yet bold tutorials… and that they inspire you to make some pillows!

julie – jaybirdquilts

PILLOW #3 –¬†giant¬†disappearing¬†nine patch
{ just a giant version of this block }
Finished pillow size: 27″ square
1. Pick 9 layer cake squares and sew them into a 9 patch
2. Fold your nine patch in half and then in half again and use a large ruler to trim it down to 28″ square
3. Then open it up & slice down the middle in both directions
4. Rearrange your blocks like this… and sew them back together!
5. Quilt the 27.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back! ¬†I did an all over loopy pattern for the quilting on this pillow. ¬†Insert 27″ pillow form & you are done!
PILLOW #4 –¬†half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square

1. Pick 4 layer cake squares – two dark & two light
2. Draw a diagonal line down the middle of the back of the light two
3. Sew a scant 1/4″ seam on either side.
4. Then cut on the line & press towards the dark.
5. Trim the 1/2 square triangle units to 9.5″
6. Sew the 4 together as shown.
7. Quilt the 18.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back! ¬†{The two pieces should each be cut at 22″ x 18.5″ ¬†Fold in half to be 11″ x 18.5″} ¬†I did straight line quilting on this pillow to echo the bold triangles. ¬†Insert¬†18″ pillow form!
PILLOW #3 –¬†half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square¬†
#5 – rail fence

1. Select 4 layer cake squares
2. Cut the layer cake into 4 pieces 2.5″ wide
3. Repeat for the other 3 layer cake pieces
4. Sew them into a rail fence block
5. Repeat to make 3 more.
6. Trim them to 8.5″ square
7. Lay them out as shown above and sew together
8. Quilt the 16.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back! ¬†{The two pieces should each be cut at 20″ x 16.5″ ¬†Fold in half to be 10″ x 16.5″} ¬†I did straight line quilting 1/4″ in from each “rail” on this pillow. ¬†Insert¬†16″ pillow form!
PILLOW #5 –¬†square in a square
Finished pillow size: 16″ square
1. Pick 3 layer cake squares. ¬†I¬†picked a color for the outside that had 2 of the same print in the layer cake… if your layer cake doesn’t have any duplicates just pick 2 prints that look similar.
2. Cut both of the light layer cake squares in half on the diagonal
3. Take two of the triangles and pin them to the dark layer cake square as shown above
4. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark
5. Trim excess fabric off
6. Repeat with the other two triangles and pin them as shown above
7. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark

8. Trim to 14.5″ square
9. Quilt the 14.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back! ¬†{The two pieces should each be cut at 18″ x 14.5″ ¬†Fold in half to be 9″ x 14.5″} ¬†I quilted lots of straight lines on the outside triangles… and also quilted squares inside of squares on the black portion. ¬†Insert¬†14″ pillow form!

6 amazing pillows!!
We hope you enjoy our ideas… and that we have inspired you to make some pillows!
john @ quilt dad

Authentic Toddler Wear

– 2 Dessert Rolls – if using Authentic by Sweetwater
{you can make both outfits using 1 dessert roll if the roll contains 2 or more of the same print of 3 different styles.}
– White Button Shirt in the size needed for your girl and/or boy
– fusible web
– coordinating thread

– rhinestone button for girls dress
– coordinating rick rak for girls dress

PLEASE NOTE… All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. RST stands for right sides together.
Select 8 dessert roll strips (5″ strips) to create the skirt and belt.
1 strip for the belt
6 strips for the 3 tiered ruffle {2 of each print for each tier}
1 strip for the ruffle extension {this fabric will not show when done.}
From the girls button-up shirt, square up the bottom by cutting straight across from side seam to side seam. If your shirt is already straight across the bottom, you don’t need to do this step. Make sure the shirt is buttoned before cutting so you get a straight cut.
Once you have trimmed the bottom of your shirt, measure across the bottom from side seam to side seam. Write this number down… This is your shirt measurement. Now multiply this number by two… This is your skirt measurement. For example… If your shirt measures 13″ across, then the ruffled skirt measurement is 26″. Set the shirt aside.

From the skirt extension fabric strip, cut two pieces that measure 1″ larger than the shirt measurement you took in the previous step. For example… if your shirt measured 13″ from side seam to side seam, then you will want to cut two pieces that measure 14″ each.
Now, take these two cut pieces and cut them lengthwise in half so that you now have 4 pieces that are 2 1/2″ wide.
Sew two of the cut pieces RST on both of the short ends. Zig-zag stitch the raw ends. Repeat this step for the other two cut pieces. You should now have two tubes that measure the same as the skirt measurement. Set the extender pieces aside.
Now, from the 3 prints for your ruffled skirt, determine which print you want for the top layer, middle and bottom layers. You should have two strips of the same print for each layer.

From the top layer print, cut your two strips down to 3 1/2″ wide X the width of the fabric.
The middle and the bottom layers will stay 5″ wide… no cutting involved on these layers.

Taking the two strips you just cut down to 3 1/2″ place two of the short ends RST, stitch 1/2″ seam and zig-zag stitch the raw edge. DO NOT stitch the other short side together yet. Repeat this step for the middle and the bottom layers.

Fold and press the bottom pinked edge of the top layer 1/4″ to the wrong side of the fabric. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers.

Sew a 1/8″ stitch from the pinked edge to create the bottom hem of the ruffle. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers.

On the other long, raw edge, sew a basting stitch to form the ruffle. You can do this however you like. I prefer to use my machine and just make my stitch width as large as it will go. To begin, I start off with a backstitch to hold one side in place. When I get to the other end, DO NOT backstitch. You need to leave a little extra thread so you can pull the top thread GENTLY to create the ruffle. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers.

You will make your ruffle the length of your skirt measurement plus 1″. For example… if your skirt measurement is 26″, then your ruffle should be 27″. Once you have your ruffle to the desired length, tie the threads in a knot at the end where you were pulling to create your ruffle so your ruffle does not stretch back out while creating the side seam. Match up the two raw short ends RST and sew 1/2″ seam and then zig-zag the raw edge to finish it off. Repeat this step for the middle and bottom layers. You should now have three ruffled skirt layers.

Assembling the skirt…
Match one of the extender pieces and the top ruffle and pin the raw edges toghether as shown. The right sides of the extender piece and the ruffle should both be facing out. First, match the side seams together when pinning to make sure you get an acurate amount of ruffle all around the skirt. Then work your way around the skirt making sure you have it pinned evenly. Stitch 1/4″ seam allowance around the top of the skirt to hold the top ruffle and extender piece in place.

Flip the top ruffle wrong side up to expose the first extender layer.

Slip the middle layer ruffle over the first extender piece with RST. Pin in place.

Next, slip the 2nd extender piece over the 2nd ruffle creating a sandwich effect. Matching the side seams with the first extender and the middle ruffle, pin the second extender piece in place with the right side facing the wrong side of the middle ruffle. Sew through the three layers a 1/2″ seam from the raw edge where pinned. Zig-zag the raw edge to finish it off.

Flip the middle ruffle right side out exposing the first extender. Pull the second extender down so it is parallel to the middle layer and flip the top layer wrong side up out of the way so you can top stitch the seam in place on the first extender layer. See the pictures below.

This picture below show how the top layer should now lay against the first extender and the middle layer should be laying against the second extender.

Flip the ruffled layers wrong side out and keep the second extender pulled up with the right side facing out. Pin the bottom ruffle RST to the second extender, first matching up the side seams and then working your way around the skirt. Stitch a 1/2″ seam around from the raw pinned edge and then zig-zag to finish off the raw edge.

As done with the middle layer, flip the top and middle ruffles wrong side up exposing the second layer and the bottom ruffle. Make sure the bottom seam is facing up towards the top of the skirt and top stitch 1/8″ from the bottom ruffle to hold the seam in place.

This picture shows how the layers should be laying when sewing the top stitch on the second extender piece.

We will now assemble the skirt to the button-up shirt.

Matching up the side seams of the shirt and the skirt, pin the shirt to the skirt RST. Make sure the button up shirt is buttoned up all the way to help ensure that the shirt stays aligned with the skirt. Sew a 1/2″ seam all the way around from the raw edge and then zig-zag the edge for a nice clean edge.

Flip the dress Right side out and top stitch the seam down 1/8″ from the skirt ruffle. The stitching should be on the white shirt bottom.

Creating the belt…
Take the last piece of dessert roll that was set aside and fold and press both of the short edges of the strip towards the wrong side of the fabric.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise and press.

Unfold the strip and press the two long sides in toward the middle fold. Press.

Fold the strip in half again lengthwise, concealing the raw edges all the way around the strip. Press.

Stitch a 1/8″ seam around the four sides of the strip to finish off the belt. Set the belt aside.

From the extra dessert roll fabrics, create your applique flower or any other applique favorite.

Using your preferred method of applique, stitch around the applique pieces and stitch the ric-rak stem in place.

Attaching the belt….
Pin the belt in place aligning the bottom of the shirt and the bottom of the belt. Leave about a 3 inch opening to be able to tie a knot or bow once the belt has been stitched on the dress. I offset my opening so the tie would be on the side. Make sure you leave the same amount of fabric dangling on both sides of the tie before stitching into place.

Stitch the belt into place on both sides of the belt. I simply followed the current stitch line that was on the belt which is approx. 1/8″ on either side. Be sure to backstitch on all the beginnings and ends of your stitching on the belt. Tie a knot or bow to finish the belt off.

Add a rhinestone button to the middle of the flower applique and YOU ARE DONE!

You now have one happy little girl! Add a coordinating tank top under the shirt dress, a pair of lace capri leggings, and slip-on shoes to complete the look.

Print out the ABCD font graphic shown or create your own. Pick out a fabric to use on three of the letters and another fabric for one of the letters. I chose to do AB and D in one fabric and the letter C in the other fabric. Apply the fusible web to the wrong side of your two fabric choices.

Cut out the letter templates and place the letters upside down on the backside of the fabric where the fusible paper is left. Trace around the letters with a pen and then cut on the traced lines to form your fabric letters.

Remove the paper backing and iron the letters in place. I wanted to give the shirt a more modern / retro look, so I placed the letters vertically on one side of the shirt starting at the shoulder then working its way down. The shirt I used had a mono-tone pin striping detail in it so I just aligned the letters along the lines of the shirt. You may need to use a straight edge to help you align your letters if your shirt is plain.

Once you have fused your letters in place, applique the letters on using your preferred method of stitching.

One handsome little boy in a cool modern shirt made especially by you! I like the long sleeved shirts and then just roll the sleeves up a couple times. Makes it very versitle for warmer and colder months.

Two Authentic Dessert Rolls will make two dresses and many appliqued shirts.
The skirt will adjust easily to any size toddler shirt. If you want to make the dress bigger, simply adjust the skirt measurement to fit the shirt size and add a couple more layers to the bottom to the appropriate length needed. Applique’s can easily be changed up to fit the childs personality or event.
Great for school wear and any other fun events!
Thanks and enjoy!
Angela Yosten

Business and Travel Accessories

Dessert Roll – Featured is Glace’ by 3 Sisters

For the Lanyard:
1 – 1″ Suspender/Mitten Clip – featured Dritz #10
1 – Large Eyelet Kit, size 1/4″ – featured Dritz #659-65
1 1/2 yards – 1/4″ ribbon
3″ – 7/8″ ribbon
Spare Parts – Alpha Sliders by the Paper Studio (I got mine from the scrap booking section in my local craft store)
Fabric glue – I like to use Helmar’s Premium Craft Glue.

For the Handle Wrap:
Scrap piece of batting (5″ x 5″)
4″ piece of velcro (hook and loop sides.)
For the Luggage Tag:
12″ – 1/4″ ribbon
Flexible Clear Plastic – I used a sheet protector and just cut it to size.

applique’s or other embellishments


Step One:
Select one strip from your dessert roll to use for your lanyard strap.

Keeping the strip folded in half cut the ends of the strip off so that your strip measures 21 1/2″ folded. When you unfold your strip, your strip should measure 43″ long.
Step Two:
Fold and iron your strip lengthwise.

Fold and iron your strip once more lengthwise.

Unfold your strip so you can see the crease in the center from the second fold.

Fold and iron both sides of the strip inward matching up with the crease in the center.

Fold and iron the strip in half one last time, concealing the raw edges inside the fold.

Step Three:

Stitch on either side of the strip as close the the edge as you can without going over.

Step Four:
Fold your strip in half matching the two short ends together. Make a crease in the center of strap. This will help find the center of the strap when attaching the eyelets.

Step Five:
With a marking pen (I used a fine tip sharpie), measure 3 1/2″ from the center on either side of the crease {center of strap} and mark with a small dot. From this dot, measure 6″ on both sides and mark another dot. From this dot, measure 6″ one last time on both sides and mark a last dot. You should now have 6 dots on your strap evenly spaced.

Step Six:
Following the directions on the Eyelet Kit, attach 6 eyelets to the marked locations on your strap.

Your strap should now look something like this…

Step Seven:
Determine which side you want facing out when wearing and starting on the back side, weave your 1/4″ ribbon in and out through your eyelets on the strap. Your ribbon should end up on the same side but on the opposite end when finished. Make sure the ribbon is pulled tight and lays flat against the strap on both sides.

Cut the ribbon to fit the strap. (Shown below is the back side. of the strap)

Step Eight:
Keeping the ribbon flat against the strap, stitch the ribbon down to the strap on either end to hold in place.

Step Nine:
At this point I like to wrap the strap around the back side of my neck and then cross the ends in front of me to make sure everything is lined up properly. The strap ends will cross one another with both right sides facing up so when wearing your lanyard it lays nice and flat against you and won’t twist around.

Your eyelets should line up with each other towards the ends of the straps. Stack your strap one end on top of the other with both sides facing up matching the two end eyelets together. Don’t worry if the ends of your straps are slightly off. As long as your eyelet match up then your lanyard won’t look lopsided.

Step Ten:
Stitch your two ends together about a 1/2″ up from the end.

Step Eleven:
With the back sides of your strap facing up, weave the sewn ends through the Suspender Clip towards the back side of the clip.

Stitch the ends down in two places. I like to stitch over my original stitch for the one closest to the clip and then stitch again towards the end of the straps for extra reinforcement. Please sew slowly as your are sewing through several layers of fabric at this point.

Step Twelve:
Apply the letter you wish to have on your lanyard to one of the metal sliders with the ribbon holes facing east and west so that when you tie on your letter with your ribbon your letter will be facing in the right direction.

Step Thirteen:
Using your 7/8″ ribbon, wrap and glue your ribbon around the base of the lanyard covering any stitching you may have made to attach the clip to your strap. I folded over end of the ribbon to conceal any raw edges. The seam of the ribbon should be at the back side fo your strap.

Using the leftover 1/4″ ribbon weave the ribbon through your Alpha Slider so that it is in the center of your ribbon. Holding the slider in place on the front side of the strap, wrap the ends of the ribbon around the strap a few times ending up at the top of the Alpha Slider. Tie a tight knot in the ribbon securing the Alpha Slider and ribbon in place. Trim off the ends of the ribbon as desired.

Clip your strap to your ID Badge and you are now styling a new look with your lanyard. Make one for your friends and one in all colors to coordinate with your wardrobe!


Step One:

From another piece of Dessert roll, cut 2 – 5″ pieces so that you have two 5″ squares. Charm Packs would also work great for these. Use two coordinating fabrics to have a reversible handle wrap. I added an an applique’ letter A to one side of the handle wrap to personalize my wrap.

You will want to do any applique stitching or other embellishments now before attaching the two pieces of fabric together.

Step Two:
Layer your pieces in the following order from top to bottom….
5″ square of fabric Right side facing down
5″ square of fabric Right side facing up
5″ square of batting.

With all layers sandwiched together, stitch a 1/4″ around all sides leaving a 3″ opening to turn.

Clip corners before turning.

Step Three:
Turn handle wrap Right sides out and iron flat. Stitch a 1/8″ seam around all four sides closing the opening at the same time.

Step Four:
Cut a piece from both the hook and the loop tape to 4″ long.

Stitch the hook and loop tape to top of one side of the wrap and the bottom of the back side of the wrap.

You now have a very stylish handle wrap and your bags will no longer be mistaken for someone elses at the airport.


Step One:
From the same strip of fabric used for your handle wrap, cut 2 pieces of fabric at 5″ x 3″.
Again, I used an applique on one side of my luggage tag out of a coordinating fabric.

Step Two:

With right Sides together, sew a 1/4″ seam around the tag leaving a 1 1/2″ – 2″ opening at the TOP of the luggage tag. Clip corners and turn. Iron flat.

Step Three:

Cut a piece of 1/4″ ribbon – 12″ long and fold in half.

Place the folded end of the ribbon in the top opening of the luggage tag about a 1/2″ inside with the ends of the ribbon sticking outside of the opening. Stitch across the top of the luggage tag backstitching a couple times over the ribbon to secure in place.

Step Four:
From the Sheet Protector or other thin clear plastic, cut 4″ down from the fold of the sheet protector and across 2 1/2″ {you will ultimately have two layers joined together by the fold.}
The fold of the sheet protector will become the opening end for your ID information for the luggage tag.

Place the cut piece of plastic on the back side {blank side} of the luggage tag. If your plastic hangs over the edges, then trim down to fit the luggage tag. Stitch around the three sides that meet up with the fabric with about 1/8″ seam.

You now have a coordinating luggage tag to insert your ID information or business card incase your luggage gets lost.

You are now set apart from the rest of the world with your very own customized travel accessories. Make some for everyone you know or multiple colors for you! You can get several accessories out of one Dessert Roll.


Angela Yosten