Candy Flowers Pillow

1 Mini Charm Pack – Print / Chance of Flowers
2 Mini Charm Packs – Solid / Bella Solid in Snow
3 Coordinating Fat Quarters
21″ Pillow Form

22″ Square of batting for quilting the pillow top
22″ Square of scrap fabric or muslin

Pull 40 printed charms and 64 solid charms.

Pair up 40 prints with 40 solids, right sides facing.  Finger press a a diagonal crease on one side.

Chain stitch the 40 pairs of prints and solids on the diagonal crease.

Without breaking the chain, run the the charms back through and stitch a 1/2″ over.  Rather than throwing the trimmed fabric away, this quick step will create 40 little HST’s for future projects.

Cut. The pictures below show both options.

Open and press.

You should have a stack of 40 Half Square Triangles (HST) and 24 Solids.

Using 12 HST’s and 4 solids, create a star.

Add the next row around – double check to make sure your HST’s are going in the right direction.

Add the points on the top and bottom.

Fill in with the remaining solid charms.

Feel free to use your preferred method, I’ll show mine.

Some people like to stitch from the inside out, others in rows or even quadrants. This is how I piece several small squares that I want to keep in a certain layout and direction.

Going in vertical rows:  Fold the squares on the right column onto the squares on the left.

Chain stitch – do not cut the thread between squares.

Feel free to press the seams, I don’t find it necessary and I will press later on.

Using the set of chained pairs, fold the first two pairs right sides together and stitch.  Open. Fold the next pair up onto the previous pair and stitch. Repeat until all 8 pairs are pieced together.

Leaving them chained is nice because they stay in the right order and direction.

Open and press the seams all in one direction.  When you complete the next row, press those seams in the opposite direction. This will make it easier to piece the rows together.

Stitch the two completed rows together.

Stitch the other two rows using the same method, and sew the halves together.

If your edges are raggedy, feel free to trim a little and straighten them out. Just be careful not to cut off the HST points along the edge and leave a seam allowance.

Take a Fat Quarter and cut four 2.5″ strips down the length of the fabric.  You will have four strips approximately 21″ wide.

Attach one strip to the top and one to the bottom of your block.

Press open and trim.

Attach the other two strips to the sides.

Press open and trim.

Optional:  Using the batting and scrap fabric, quilt as desired. Trim.

Double fold:

Take your remaining 2 Fat Quarters and along the 21″ side,  fold over 1″ and press.  Fold over another 1″ and press.

Top stitch along the top and bottom of the fold.   Repeat with the other Fat Quarter.

The Math:

The two back pieces will create an envelope style enclosure and they need to overlap about 4″.  Since everyone sews 1/4″ seams a bit different, we may have slightly different sized pillow tops.

Take the width of your pillow top and divide by 2.  
Add 2″. 
You should be somewhere near 12″. 

Trim both Fat Quarters to that measurement. Trim the raw edge opposite your double edge fold, leaving the 21″ width intact.

Example:  My pillow top is 20″.  20 divided by 2 = 10. Add 2 = 12″.  I now have two fat quarters that measure 21″ x 12″ each. (21″ side has the double fold)

Part 2:

Trim both Fat Quarters so they don’t hang off pillow top. Instead of being 21″ they will probably around 20″.

Pillow Top right side up
Fat Quarter #1 right side down – lining up raw edges along the side
Fat Quarter #2 right side down – lining up raw edges along the opposite side

Pin or clip edges in place. Stitch along the edge all the way around.

Zip Zag or Serge the seam you created. This will help prevent fraying in the future.

Turn right side out and you are done!

I’m using a 21″ pillow form.

One pillow cover.  If you make a Candy Flowers pillow cover, I would love to see it.

Julie Hirt

Candy Circle Quilt

Hi there, this is Cheryl from Meadow Mist Designs and I am so excited to share my first project for Moda Bake Shop!  I love the cute Moda candy packs and all of Fig Tree & Co.’s fabric lines so I was thrilled to combine them to make the Candy Circle baby quilt.  With just four mini charm packs (or just one charm pack), a focal print fabric, and some background fabric, you can have a cute baby quilt ready to gift.

4 mini charm packs (also called candy packs) or 1 charm pack:  Mirabelle by Fig Tree & Co.

3/4 yard of a focal print: Mirabelle Breeze 20225
5/8 yard of a background fabric (3/4 yard if you include the optional pieced backing): Bella Solids White Bleached
3/8 yard for binding: Mirabelle Bark 20227
1 and 1/4 yards for backing: Bella Solids Green Olive (for a 2″ overhang)

Step One – Cutting the Fabrics
*Note: if you cut each strip in each step you may have a few extra pieces cut.

Candy Squares

1)      If starting with a charm pack, cut each (5” x 5”) charm square into 4 (2.5” x 2.5”) patchwork squares for a total of 168 squares (2.5” x 2.5”) (if starting with candy packs, skip to step 2)

2)      Select 132 of the 168 squares (2.5” x 2.5”) to use in the front of your quilt.  Pick squares with good contrast with the background.  You can use the leftover squares for a pieced backing.

Focal Fabric
1)      Cut 3 strips 4.5” x WOF strips

      a)      Cut each strip into 4.5” x 4.5” squares (9 per strip) for 24 squares (4.5” x 4.5”)
These 4.5” x 4.5” squares are the “full focal blocks”.

2)      Cut 4 strips 2.5” x WOF
a)      Cut 2 strips into 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles (9 per strip) for 12 rectangles (2.5” x 4.5”)
b)   Cut 2 strips into 2.5” x 2.5” squares (16 per strip) for 28 squares (2.5” x 2.5”)

Background Fabric (abbreviated bg in this pattern)
1)      Cut 8 strips 2.5” x WOF
a)      Cut 4 strips into 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles (9 per strip) for 28 rectangles (2.5” x 4.5”)

      b)      Cut 4 strips into 2.5” x 2.5” squares (16 per strip) for 64 squares (2.5” x 2.5”)

Step Two: Assembling the Blocks

The Candy Circle quilt contains 6 types of blocks.  Using the following amounts of fabric pieces and following the sewing pictures, sew pieces into rows and then rows together into blocks.  Press all seams open.

Full Focal Blocks:
24 focal print squares (4.5″ x 4.5″)

1/4 Focal Blocks
Using 16 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 16 bg rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), and 16 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 16 1/4 Focal Blocks

3/4 Focal Blocks
Using 12 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 12 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), and 12 focal print rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), make 12 3/4 Focal Blocks

Full Patchwork Blocks:
Using 48 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 12 Full Patchwork Blocks

3/4 Patchwork Blocks
Using 72 patchwork print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″) and 24 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 24 3/4 Focal Blocks

1/4 Patchwork Blocks
Using 12 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 12 bg rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), and 12 patchwork squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 12 1/4 Patchwork Blocks

Step Three: Assembling the Quilt Sections

The quilt contains 4 quilt sections, each section containing 25 blocks in a 5 rows x 5 columns arrangement.  Each section contains the following number of blocks:


Arrange the 25 blocks in a 5 by 5 block arrangement as shown below:

Sew blocks together into rows (pressing seams open) and then sew rows together pining at each intersecting seam (pressing seams open).

Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 quilt sections.  (Alternatively, you may layout the full 10 x 10 block arrangement for the whole quilt, sew the blocks into rows, then sew the rows together).

Sew the 4 quilt sections together (pressing seams open).

Optional Pieced Backing

Select 22 patchwork squares
Cut 2 additional strips 2.5″ x WOF of the background fabric

Sew the 22 patchwork squares into a row, then sew the 2.5″ x WOF background strips onto either side of the patchwork row.

Slice the backing yardage (I made my cut about 2/3 of the way across the fabric) and sew the patchwork section into the background yardage.  

Step 4: Finishing the Quilt

1)    Layer the quilt top, batting, and backing and baste the quilt.

2)    Quilt as desired.  I quilted the focal fabric areas in a straight line lattice, quilted the background areas using a small pebble design, and quilted the patchwork squares with straight line quilting.

3)    Bind the quilt using 5 strips 2.5” x WOF (for straight, not bias binding).  More information on binding can be found here.

Thank you so much for joining me in my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  I would love to see what you make with the pattern, please add your quilts to the Moda Bake Shop flicker group and the Meadow Mist Designs flicker group.  Visit this page on my blog ( to see the quilt pattern rendered in other colors including a holiday version.

Cheryl Brickey
Meadow Mist Designs}

Little Lady Ragged Bags

Today we are making a ragged tote bag that is the perfect size for little girls. It’s easy to make and fun to use.  I often give them for gifts filled with little toys or coloring books.

*2 packs of Moda Candy
*1/2 yard of white fabric (or coordinating fabric of your choice) for the lining
*1/2 yard of natural colored felt 

#1.  From your white fabric cut 66 squares that are 2 and 1/2 inches.
#2.  From your felt cut 66 squares that are 2 and 1/2 inches.
#3.  Open your Moda Candy packs!
#4.  Layer your squares for your bag.  Put 1 white square on the bottom, a piece of felt in the middle, and your printed fabric on the top.  (With the right sides facing out on both the white and the printed fabric.)
#5.  Choose two squares that you would like to place next to each other.  Place them (still stacked with the felt and white fabric) with the white fabric together in the middle.  Now your stack is 6 pieces deep!  (But don’t worry…your machine can handle it! 🙂
#6.  Once you are all stacked up sew down one side of your stack.  Then open it up!  (Your seams will be on the OUTSIDE and it will look crazy but that is ok…that is how you want it to look for this project!)
*Note:  For this project use a generous quarter inch seam.

#7.  Repeat the process for the 2 squares that you would like to attach underneath the pair you just made.  Once you are done place your two pairs of squares together with the white in the middle (your prints facing outward) and sew them together.

#8. Unfold and see the cute little 4 patch you just created!  Now repeat this process 13 more times.  (So that you have a total of 14 little 4 patches!)

#9.  Now select the 4 four patch squares that you would like to use for the front of your bag.

#10.  Sew the 4 squares together in the same manner you’ve been sewing thus far.  (With the white fabric in the middle and the printed sides out).  Once you are finished repeat this process for the back side of your bag.

#11.  Now we just need to sew up the two side pieces and the bottom piece for the bag.  Both the sides and the bottom are made up of 2 four patch squares sewn together.  The only difference between the sides and the bottom is just making sure any directional prints are going the right way on the pieces you choose for the sides.  So put together 2 side panels and one bottom panel. 

#12.  We have all of our pieces ready so now it’s time to construct our bag.  Put your front panel and your side panel WHITE sides together and sew it up!

 #13.  Next put that same side panel and your back panel WHITE sides together and sew it up as well!
 #14.  Now, I know what your thinking…it’s time add the other side panel.  But it’s not.  I mean I guess you could but I wouldn’t and don’t.  I add the bottom panel next.  So you will be sewing the bottom WHITE sides together in one long line across the front, pivot, down the side, pivot, and along the back side. 
#15.   Now add you last side panel…white sides together…sew down the front, pivot, across the bottom, pivot, and up the back.  Now your bag is completely formed.

#16.  We need to make the strap/handle now.  Sew together 10 fabric and felt sandwiches (exactly how we did in steps 4 and 5 only now we are sewing 10 together in a long strip instead of just 2).

#17.  Now sew a 1/4 inch seam down each side of your strap like shown in the photo below.
#18.  We are ready to attach the strap now!  Position it on the side panels right between the 2 small squares making up the top of the 4 patch squares as shown in the picture below.  I place the strap right behind the side panel and down inside the bag about 1 inch.  Then I sew the first strap on and continue stitching around the entire circumference keeping the 1/4 inch seam until I get to the next strap, which I sew on, and continue around the bag until I come back to the place where I began.

#19.  The only thing we have left to do is clip our seams.  Snip along all seam lines about every 1/4 inch like shown in the photo below.  Clip to the stitching but NOT through the stitching!!

#20.  When I finish my bags I always throw them in the washing machine on the rinse cycle and then into the dryer.  This will fluff up all those clipped and snipped seams and make them soft and cute.  This last step isn’t necessary but I always do it.

There are other ways that these bags can be assembled.  However, I’ve made over 500 of these little guys and this is the way that I’ve found to have them best hold their shape and be the easiest to sew.

*1 little girls tote bag
(And 1 big disagreement if you happen to have more than 1 little girl!)

 Simple Simon & Co.

Candy Squares Table Runner

Hello, again! I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts and I am so excited to be a part of Moda Bake Shop today.  It’s great to share my Candy Squares Table runner made from those darling pre-cut Mini Charm packages–Moda Candy.  They are so cute that they’re sweet!  The 2 1/2 inch squares work-up into 2 inch squares–perfect for a postage-stamp style  quilt.  I love using pre-cuts, don’t you?  I also love the Little Black Dress fabric line by Basic Grey.  It works beautifully with modern home decor and will make a beautiful addition to any table at any time of the year.  This is one project that can be displayed all year round!  So, let’s get down to business!

2 Packages of Moda 2 1/2 inch pre-cut Mini-Charms (I used Little Black Dress)
1/2 yard white dot for setting squares (I used Little Black Dress Ivory Dot)
1/3 yard for outer borders (I used Little Black Dress Grey Dot)
1/3 yard for binding (I used Little Black Dress Cream Black)


This is the fun part!   Playing with all of those prints and trying to make it so that no two of the same print touch one another.  It is helpful to look at your candy pieces in gray-scale to see if there are any similarly valued pieces touching one another.  If you don’t want to use a yellow filter, you can always squint at it to get your eyes to notice the gray-scale.


For the setting squares, cut seven squares measuring 4 7/8 inches from the width of fabric (WOF), then cut them in half diagonally to yield 14 triangle units.

Also cut one square measuring 2 7/8 inches and cut it into quarters diagonally to get the setting triangles for the four outer corners.

For the outer border, cut four strips from the WOF measuring 3 1/2 inches wide.


Due to the fact that this quilt has odd numbered rows, it would appear that the triangle units would need to be set-in.  This can be difficult for new quilters and I have found a way to get around it by simply doing the piecing in several sections.  Please refer to the number in the photo for final section placement.

  • Section One and Five: Sew two rows consisting of 5 candy squares with a triangle unit added at the end.

Sections 1 and 5
  • Section Two and Four:  Sew two rows consisting of 7 candy squares with a single triangle unit added at the end.

Sections 2 and 4
  • Section Three:  This is the tricky section.  In this section we compensate for the odd-numbered setting by using three rows instead of two.  This way we can avoid setting-in the outer triangles.

  • First, sew two rows of 7 candy squares then add a triangle section just as before for sections 2 and 4.  Then sew another unit comprised of two candy squares and one triangle as shown on the right-hand side of the photo.  Save this piece
  • Sew a strip of 9 candy squares together, then add  it  to the unit comprised of two rows of 7 candy squares.  This row will span the full length of all 7 candy squares and the triangle.

  • To complete this center unit, add the triangle with the two candy squares to this section.
  • Sew the outside corner  units.  They are comprised of two candy squares, two triangle units and topped with the mini-triangle unit.  Sew four, one for each corner.

  • Sew together the center patchwork sections.  I think it looks good without the corner pieces as well!
  •  Add the four outer corners.

  • Add the four outer 3 1/2 inch borders.  Trim away any excess fabric to square the quilt top.
  • Quilt as desired!

And…just because it’s one week until Christmas, here is what it would look like if made from scraps of holiday fabric.

One table runner measuring 16 inches by 30 inches.

Shannon Mower

Easy Hexagon Pillow

Designed by Karen O’Connor of

 2 – Aspen Frost Mini Charm Packs or 68 – 2 1/2″ squares
1/4 yard Grunge for border
1/2 yard for backing
1 3/4 yards red
1 3/8″ rick rack
1 – 14″ pillow form 1 ruler with 60 degree angle lines


Cut each 2 1/2″ square in half.

Place your ruler with the 60 degree angle like this  and cut:

Place ruler with the 60 degree angle on the other side like this and cut:

Cut all of the pieces so they look like this:

Arrange pieces like this:

Arrange the pieces as desired with 9 in a row and 7 rows of complete hexagons.

Sew the pieces into rows.  

Press each rows seams the opposite way.

Sew the rows together.

Square up to 11 1/2″.

Cut 2 – 2 1/2″ strips by WOF.  Cut into 2 – 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ and 2 – 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″.  Sew the 11 1/2″ pieces on first to two opposite sides.  Then sew the 14 1/2″ pieces to the other sides.  I did not quilt this pillow but you certainly could if you would like.

To make the back for the pillow.  Cut a strip 14 1/2″ wide.  Make 2 – 14 1/2″ x 20″ rectangles.  Press the rectangles in half so they are 14 1/2″ x 10″. 

Place the hexagon quilt top on your table right side up.  Place the back pieces on the top aligning the raw edges to the raw edges on each side of the pillow top.  The folded edges will overlap. 

Stitch 1/4″ around the pillow.  At the corners, use a spool of thread and trace around it to make your corners rounded.  It makes sewing the rick rack on much easier to go around the corners.

Iron your rick rack in half.  Place the folded edge along the seam line and hand stitch in place. 

Stuff you pillow form inside the opening and ENJOY!

Makes 1 – 14″ pillow

This is my second Moda Bake Shop project.  I hope you enjoy this one!  You can purchase a kit from our web site at for $25.

Karen O’Conner
{ }

Red Rooster Quilts
48 Corbins Mill Dr.
Dublin, OH  43017

Whimsy Square Baby Quilt

Hi everyone! I’m Cara from caraquilts and I wanted to share with you an idea for all those wonderful mini charm packs or petites fours from the Moda Bake Shop Sampler. This project is quick and doesn’t take a huge investment, and with the pieced border looks way more difficult than it is.Which makes it great to make with the fabrics that are maybe out of your normal range or your favorites.

-mini Whimsy charm pack (2.5” squares)
-matching Whimsy charm pack (5” squares)
-½ yd cream (borders)
-1/2 yd outer border
-1/4 yd binding

Please read all the directions first.
Cut from each of 40 charm squares (4) 1.25 strips.
-From one of the strips cut two 1.25”*2.50”
-Sub cut the other two strips into 1.25”*4”
-Set aside the remaining 1.25*5” strip for the pieced inner border.
Separate the pieces into a light and dark pile. It doesn’t matter if the charms are really dark or light, this will just help you keep from having blocks that you can’t tell the difference in the fabrics.
Sew one 1.25*2.5 strips to either side of the mini charm making. Press away from the center.

Add the 1.25*4” strips and press away. Repeat with the remaining mini charm pieces until you have all 40 sewn and measuring 4″ square.

Because the mini packs only have 40 squares you will need to make up two blocks somehow. I sewed together 5 of the extra strips and pressed well. I then trimmed to 4”. This left me with 4 strips .75” finished and one just a scrap showing. You could also cut down two of your favorite charms from the charm pack which has 42 squares. Which ever you prefer.

Arrange the blocks into a pleasing layout. Mine is 7×6. Sew together rows and then sew the rows together.

Measure your top so far. It should be roughly 22”*26”.

Cut your inner borders 1.25” by Width of Fabric (WOF). Sub cut to fit the short side of your top. Sew and press away. Measure and sub cut your long side border. Sew on and press away from the center.

For the pieced inner border take the set aside 1.25*5 strips and sew them into two long strips, sewing along the 5” sides. Sew pairs together, and then sew the pairs together, and so on until you have two long strips. Take care to sew them as accurately as possible; there isn’t any real wiggle room to clean up the edges. Press well, all in one direction.

Now you are going to cut the 5” wide long strips into 1.25” strips.
This is the pieced border that looks so small but you never handled any of those tiny pieces. As before measure and sew on your borders. You will cut off a couple of the end pieces on both the short and long sides. Sew on and press so that pieced border is flat. Press toward  the cream border.

Again measure and cut 1.25”*WOF for the next border. Attach as before, press away from the pieced border.

At this point your quilt is about 29”*26”.

Cut 3.50” x WOF for the outer border. Measure the quilt top and cut the long borders first. Sew on and press away from center. Measure and cut down the remaining side. Sew on the border and press away. You should have a quilt top measuring 36” x 33”

Now the basting, quilting and binding! And you’re done!

One 36″x33″ quilt which would be great for a new born, or as a wall hanging or table topper! When beautiful fabrics are displayed it really can be anything!

Check out my blog for directions on making the same pattern with a jelly roll and charm pack for a twin size quilt!

Cara Wilson

Chair Scarf

Moda Petit Four sku#PFBOX

• or an Aster Manor charm pack
• 1/2 yd. backing Aster Manor sku# 12019 12 Sommerset Pink
• 1/4 yd. binding Aster Manor sku# 3908 36 Wildflowers Crimson
• Clover small 1 1/4 inch yo-yo maker or template
• basic hand sewing supplies, needle, thread, thimble

•When I started this project I intended to use it on one of my side tables as a table topper…until I finished it. I layed it across my new desk chair before I set out to take the final pictures. I liked the way it looked sooo much that, that is where it will stay. It transformed into a ‘Chair Scarf’.

•To start this project select 49 squares from your Petit Four. A petit four has 2 fabric lines with 120 – 2.5 inch squares of each line. I chose Aster Manor and separated my squares by color first. If you are using charm packs, cut your chosen fabrics into 2.5 inch squares and follow directions as listed.
•Center Squares:
20 light creams
13 reds
12 pinks
4 yellows
•Yo-Yo Border:
35 browns
17 reds
4 yellows
•Carefully arrange your squares to form the pattern shown above 7 X 7.

•I flipped row 2 onto row 1 and pinned them.
•Leave the rest of your rows on the cutting mat.

•Sew Row 1 and Row 2 together.
•Do not cut the thread in between the squares.
•Iron them open.

•Lay rows 1/2 on the cutting mat checking the placement of your pattern.

•Flip Row 3 onto Row 1/2 and pin.

•Sew Row 3 to Row 1/2.
•Again, do not cut threads
•Iron open and continue to add rows in the same manner for the entire top.

•It will look like this. All squares are sewn into rows.

•Now take Row 1A and flip it onto Row 2A and pin.

•Notice I still haven’t clipped threads.
•Continue sewing the rows together.
•Here is row 1A sewn to new row 2A
•Make sure you pay close attention to the direction of the seams to ensure they are nested from row to row to reduce bulk.
• Layer the batting, backing and center top and machine quilt. I chose a meander with a flower and free motion quilted my project. If you are new to quilting, try a straight stitch in the ditch, or diagonal lines through each square.

•Add single fold binding…

•And finish binding the center.

•Make 56 Yo-Yo’s using either the Clover green yo-yo maker or the template provided. The yo-yo’s should finish to 1 1/4 inches.

I hope you picked up one tip from my tutorial and that you will be inspired to make a table topper for your table or chair scarf for your sewing room or desk. In fact I can see this project made with many other Moda fabric lines! The possibilities are fact maybe I should make one for every season!!
Thanks, Vickie E

Yo-Yo Border:

35 browns
17 reds
4 yellows

• Here are the yo-yo’s laid out for placement.

•Begin by stitching yo-yo to yo-yo with a whip stitch, forming rows.

•For best results I stitched 15 yo-yo’s together, then,13, 13 and 15.

•Once the rows are stitched, pin the yo-yo strip right sides together to the quilted center as shown.
•Stitch each yo-yo onto the binding.

• Continue adding the strips/sides to finish.

16.5 X 16.5 inch chair scarf or table topper…