Mister DJ Quilt


Hello Moda Bake Shop Friends!   Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting here and I am so excited to be sharing a new quilt with you today.  My oldest son is the only person in the family that did not have a homemade bedspread.  It has been put on hold because he was insistent on have “cool” fabrics.

Sphere by Zen Chic was the perfect fit and I set out to make an equally “cool” design.  Inspired by my son’s love for music (of all varieties and volume 🙂 Mister DJ was created and can I just say,  he loves it!!!  So do you have a tween that needs a new bedspread as well??  Well, let’s show you how to do it 🙂

To make a twin sized 70″ x 89″ Mister DJ quilt you will need:

2 Sphere Jelly Rolls
2 Yards of Bella Solid Grass
5 1/2 Yards of Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

Begin by separating your jelly roll strips into 2 piles, one of Low Volume (or light) prints and one of High Volume (or dark) prints.

From the High Volume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
      2 1/2″ x 11″        2 1/2″ x 10″          2 1/2″ x 9″        2 1/2″ x 8″           2 1/2″ x 7″
      2 1/2″ x 6″          2 1/2″ x 5″            2 1/2″ x 4″        2 1/2″ x 3″           2 1/2″ x 2″
I found the easiest way to do this is to stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and  repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.  (You will have to cut a few from the scraps as you will have 40 strips and not 42)

From the LowVolume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
      2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
      2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″            2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
Once again,  stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.

Now, pair each High Volume piece with the opposite size Low Volume strip.  So the 11 1/2″ goes with the 2″ and the 10 1/2″ goes with the 3″ and so on down the line.  Set these aside for the moment.

From the Bella Solid Grass yardage cut the following:
  (9) 2 1/2″ x wof (width of fabric) strips to be used for binding
  (10) 1 1/2″ x wof strips – Trim the selvage and sew 2 strips end to end to create (5) 1 1/2″ x 84 strips.
   (210) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

STEP 2 – ASSEMBLING THE STRIPS

Now with the cutting done you are ready to start assembling the blocks.   Grab the first set of your grouped fabric strips  (The 11 /2″ Low Volumes and 2″ High Volumes).  You will be sewing these into a row by first sewing the Solid Grass rectangle to the Low Volume strip and then second, adding the print strip to the Solid Grass Rectangle.

The easiest way to do this is by chain stitching.  (Meaning, not clipping your threads after each strip but continually feeding strips through the machine until you are done with your pile.)  Start by placing the Grass rectangle onto the Low Volume strip with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 of your sets.  Clip the threads between your strips.

Now, you can add the High Volume strip.  Place the High Volume strip onto the Grass rectangle with right sides together and again chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 strips.  Clip your threads.

Now repeat this process for each of your (10) grouped sets of 21 strips.  In the end you will have 210 pieced strips total.  You want the Low Volume print to always be on the top.   Press your strip sets.

STEP 3 – ASSEMBLING THE BLOCKS

With your strips all set, you are ready to start sewing your blocks together.  So take all of your strip sets and mix them up in a large pile.

Now, grab 2 random strips and place them right sides together taking care that the Low Volume print in both strips is on the top and the High Volume print is on the bottom.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the side of the strip, aligning the edges as you sew.  Chain stitch 30 of these to make 30 strip sets of 2.  Clip the threads between the 30 sets.

Now, you are going to add a third strip to the sets of 2.  Align another randomly chosen strip along the side of the second strip with the Low Volume prints on top and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  If you happen to have randomly chosen a strip where the Grass Rectangle is in the same spot as the strip set, take care to match the seams.  You can just align these with your fingers as shown.   Chain stitch all 30 sets.

Clip your threads between your sets and you are ready to add a fourth row.  Continue this process until you have added a total of 7 rows in each set.    Clip the threads between sets.

So now you will have 30 blocks each consisting of 7 vertical rows that have the Low Volume prints on top and the High Volume prints on the bottom.

Press the seams in the blocks to one direction.  They should now measure 14 1/2″ square.

STEP 4 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP

And now you can put your quilt top together!   Layout 6 rows of 5 blocks.  Play with the layout until it is pleasing to the eye.  Once you have layout complete mark the blocks so you remember which row is which 🙂  Now, sew the blocks into rows.  To do this, just place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  The place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue in this fashion until all 5 blocks in the row are sewn together.  Repeat for all 6 rows.

Now place a Grass Sashing Strip that you made clear at the beginning onto to the top of rows 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning the fabric as you sew.

Press all of the seams towards the sashing.  Trim the excess sashing at the end of each row.

Now sew the rows together.  This is just like making the rows only on a larger scale.  Place row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam towards the sashing.   Now place row 3 onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam.  Continue in this fashion until all the rows are sewn together.

And your quilt top is complete!!!  Great job!!!

STEP 5 – FINISHING

Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   Cut your backing into 2 pieces 99″ x WOF and piece together with a 1/2″ seam.   You will use the 9 strips you cut and set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

One ultra modern, High/Low Volume  70″ x 89″ Mister DJ twin sized quilt.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Mister DJ Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Twists and Turns


Hello fellow bakers 🙂  I’m Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting and I am super excited to share a new quilt with you today.  Twists and Turns is a super easy quilt that is made from one block but has endless layout possibilities.  So whether you are into a modern square, an improv maze, or a traditional braid, you are sure to find the quilt design that fits you 😉  So, let’s get right to it 🙂

To make a Twists and Turns 84″x 84″ picnic size quilt you will need:

2 Bluebird Park Jelly Rolls by Kate and Birdie
2 1/6 Yards of the Grey Flower print  (13106 18)
1 1/6 Yards of the Yellow print  (13108 19)
5 Yards of any print for Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

We will start with the Yardage.  From the Grey print yardage, cut (30) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.  From those strips sub-cut (36) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, (36) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strips, and (36) 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips.  Set aside.  From the Yellow print yardage, cut (15) 2 1/2″  x WOF strips.  From those strips sub-cut *36) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ strips and (36) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips.  Set Aside.

Now it’s time to move onto the jelly rolls.  From the 2 Jelly Rolls select 54 strips.  I used the light grey, green, blue, and coral strips setting aside the yellow and dark grey strips for binding.

Divide the 54 strips into 2 piles, one pile of 18 strips and one pile of 36 strips.  Evenly distribute the colors in each pile.

From the pile of 18 strips, cut each strip while folded into a 10 1/2″ and (2) 4 1/2″ increments.  This will create (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles and (2) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strips from each strip.  Cut all 18 strips this way and group the pieces into piles of similar size.

From the pile of 36 strips, open the strip and cut one of each of the following pieces from the strip.  A 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x  8 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x  6 1/2″ piece, and a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square.  Cut each of these pieces from all 36 strips.  Group these with the other prints into piles of similar size.

From your Jelly Rolls you should now have the following pieces

STEP 2 – BUILDING BLOCK

To start the block, gather a grey yardage 2 1/2″ square and a colored print 2 1/2″ square.  Place with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you sew.

Chain stitch 36 similar sets.  Chain stitching is just sewing one set after another without clipping threads in between.  Once you are through sewing all 36 sets, clip the threads and press toward the colored print.

Now, layout your pieced set and a colored print 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle as shown.  Place the rectangle onto the pieced set with right sides together and aligning the raw edge.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.

Repeat for all 36 pieced sets chain stitching as you go.  Once you have chain stitched all 36 sets, clip the threads and press towards the 4 1/2″ print piece.

And now the process will repeat again and again 🙂

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a yellow yardage 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a yellow yardage 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Almost done!!!

Grab a grey yardage 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a grey yardage 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

You should now have (36) 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ blocks that look something like this 🙂

STEP 3 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP


And now is the really fun part.  This is where you get to decide what kind of a quilt layout you want.  There are so many possibilities.  These are a few of my favorite 🙂    Play with the blocks until you have the layout you love, and there are lots more options than shown 😉  Once you have a layout you like, sew the blocks into rows and the rows into the quilt top 🙂

 

If you decide to do the staircase layout, the same as I did, it is easiest to first sew the blocks into the two  sets of two shown below, making 9 of each set.

And then sew the sets into two sets of row, making 3 of each row as shown.

And lastly, sewing the rows into the quilt top.

STEP 4 – FINISHING

Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will use 8 strips you set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

One adorable 84″ x 84″ Twists and Turns Quilt that is just the design for you 🙂  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Twists and Turns Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Ring Around Baby Quilt


Hi There 🙂   It’s me, Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to share my Ring Around Baby Quilt!!  I really love the bold prints and colors of Zen Chic’s Comma line.  They make it so much fun to work with.  So let’s get right to it!!

1 Comma Layer Cake
1 yard of favorite black print for pieced back, I used 1513 16
1/4 yard of favorite white print for pieced back, I used 1513 11
1/3 yard of favorite print for binding, I used 1512 20
Spray Baste

STEP 1 – PIECING THE QUILT TOP

From your layer cake select the 5 black/white squares, the 3 grey/black squares, and the 8 white/black squares.  Lay them out in a 4 x 4 grid alternating black and white prints as shown.

Sew the blocks into rows.   Place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge as shown in row 1.  I don’t pin these, I just align as I go.  Then place the third block onto the now sewn together 1st and 2nd blocks and sew a 1/4″ seam as shown in row 2.  Repeat process for the fourth block as shown in row 4.  Press towards the black/grey blocks.

 Now you can sew the rows together.  Place Row 1 onto Row 2 and Row 3 onto Row 4 with right sides together.  Take care to nest your seams and pin in place.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges.  Repeat the same process to sew Row 1/2 and Row 3/4 together.

Press your rows.  Your quilt top will look something like this 🙂  Go ahead and set it aside for a bit.

STEP 2 – CUTTING THE APPLIQUE

Gather your remaining layer cake squares.  I set aside the 2 reprint squares and the square that matched my binding fabric to use on my Bonus Tutorial mentioned later.  Cut each of the remaining (21) 10″ squares into (4) 5″ squares.  For your applique, you can choose to cut perfect circles or wonky circles.

To make perfect circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Press the folds.  Using a compass, align the point on the folded center and draw a quarter circle.  Repeat for one to two more arcs.  Cut along the drawn lines.

And you have a varied number of rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.

To make wonky circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Finger press the folds.  Cut an arced shape over the folded center   Repeat for one to two more arcs.

And you have a varied number of wonky rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.  And you can really play with the wonky factor here.

Repeat for all of your 5″ squares so you end up with a pile of rings and a pile of circles.  Set the circles aside as you wont be needing them.  (They can be used in the Bonus Tutorial.)

STEP 3 – ADDING APPLIQUE TO QUILT SANDWICH 

First, you need to piece the quilt back so you can make a quilt sandwich.  Cut your yard backing piece into 2 pieces measuring as follows.  Trim the selvages from your 1/4″ fabric.  Sew the three pieces together using a 1/2″ seams.  Press the seams to the darker print.  (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture so you get a graphic.)

Create your quilt sandwich using spray baste.  The reason I suggest Spray Baste is because it will be difficult to add the applique with a whole bunch of pins in the way.  If you are new to using spray baste for creating a quilt sandwich you can see my video tutorial on how to do so.

And now you are ready to add the rings 🙂  Place approximately 4 rings in a box an spray with a coating of spray baste.  You don’t want to work with much more than that at a time or the baste will start to dry out.

Place the first ring onto your quilt top leaving a bubble where you would like to add the next ring.

Place the next ring onto the quilt top so that it links with the first.  At one of the intersections of the two rings, cut the new ring as shown.

Slide the two cut edges under the bubble of the first ring.  Press the rings in place leaving a new bubble in the second ring to add a third ring.

Continue the process.  Start new groupings and vary the size and shape of each grouping.  Some of my groups have up to 6 rings and some only two.  The more variation the better.

Continue until you have covered the entire quilt.  I ended up with about 2 rings left over.

STEP 4 – FINISHING QUILT

And now you are ready to finish the quilt.  Your quilt sandwich is already made so you can move right onto quilting.  You will want to quilt this with a rather dense FMQ design to ensure that all of those cut edges get stitched down.  I choose to do a Interlocking Circles FMQ design and you can see a video tutorial on how to do this here.  It also gives some insights on quilting with all of the raw edges.  You will have to stop occasionally and lift your presser foot and then place it on top of the edge of the applique as sometimes it tends to pop up.  You will notice a few of my circles have been pinned.  Those were for the really stubborn ones that just didn’t want to stay in place.

Once you are finished quilting all that remains is to bind it.  Cut your binding fabric into (4) 2 1/2 ” strips and bind your quilt.  I machine quilted this to add strength as it is a baby quilt.  If you are new to this you can see a video tutorial on binding here.

One adorably chic and modern Ring Around baby quilt measuring 38″ x 38″, a perfect gift for a special little one.

And . . . If you want to finish that gift off with another little handmade treasure and use up your leftover circles at the same time, pop on over to Happy Quilting for this bonus Chic Circles Car Seat Cover Tutorial.

Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Ring Around Baby Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Read With Me Quilt



Hi Moda Bake Shop Readers!!  I’m Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to be back here at the Moda Bake Shop to share my Read With Me quilt!! This fun twist on a standard “book” quilt uses typography and adorable quilting to add a whimsical touch.  Adding quilted titles of my families books makes this quilt a treasured heirloom.  I hope you enjoy the tutorial and even more, I hope you enjoy creating your own Read With Me quilt!!

To make your own Read With Me quilt you will need :

1 Noteworthy Jell Roll
2 Yards of Moda Bella Solid White
1/2 Yard of Moda Bella Solid Black

4 Yards of your favorite print for Backing

Applique Templates (at the end of the tutorial)
1/2 yard of Heat N Bond
Twin size or 68″ x 82″ piece of Batting

Got your Ingredient’s, let’s get piecing!!

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Start by breaking out that jelly roll.  Choose 7 strips and set them aside to be used for your binding.  I choose to use the “white” strips for my binding.

From the remaining jelly roll strips, alternating prints and colors for each group cut
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles
   (24) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (28) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles
   (28) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles


From your white yardage cut the following
   (10) 5 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips
   (4) 3″ x 15″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 6″ rectangles
   (4) 1 1/2″ x 6″ rectangles
   (36) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles
   (8) 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles
   (32) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

STEP 2 – BLOCK A

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (3) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (3) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.



Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.




STEP 3 – BLOCK B

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (2) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (3) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (3) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (2) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.


Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.



STEP 4 – BLOCK C

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangle, (1) 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle,
        (1) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle and (1) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ solid rectangles, (3) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (3) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.




Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips on either end of the strip and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 rows together.  Start by placing the second row onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third row onto the now sewn together first and second rpw and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 rows are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.



STEP 5 – BLOCK D

Block D has an angled book.  To make this start by slicing a 3″ x 15″ solid rectangle in half diagonally.


Place a 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ print rectangle between the 2 triangles, taking care to center the strip.  Lay the strip onto the top triangle.  Sew a 1/4″ seam aligning the raw edges.  Press.  Lay the bottom triangle onto the strip and sew a 1/4″ seam aligning the raw edges.  Press.  Using the ends of the strip as a guide, trim the top and bottom of the unit even with the ends of the strip.

Now gather a 2 1/2″ x 6″ solid rectangle and a 1 1/2″ x 6″ solid rectangle.  Lay the 2 1/2″ strip along the bottom of the block and the /2″ strip along the top of the block aligning the raw edges.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along each edge and press.

Now all that is left is trimming.  The trimming has to be done one side at a time and needs to be precise or you will end up with a floating book 🙂
    Place your long ruler so the top left hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 4 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler and the bottom right hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the right hand edge of your ruler.
    Place your long ruler so the right hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line on your ruler.  Trim along the left hand edge of your ruler.
     Place your long ruler so that the right hand side of the block aligns with the edge of the ruler, the left hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line and the bottom right hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 12 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the top edge of the ruler.
     Place your long ruler so that the right hand side of the block aligns with the edge of the ruler, the left hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line and the top of the block aligns with the 12 1/2″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the bottom edge of the ruler.

You know you will have trimmed correctly if the three corners of the book that are pointed out are 1/4″ away from the nearest edge.

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.

   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (1) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles, and a pieced angle book block.
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (1) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.

Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 5 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 5 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.


STEP 6 – APPLIQUE STRIPS


Now the blocks are done and you can move onto the applique.  If you are new to applique, and need a bit more instruction on how to do it, please see my video tutorial on Applique Basics here.    From your black yardage lined with Heat N Bond cut the following letters.  (use the templates at the end of the post or make your own if you prefer a different font.)

Grab the WOF strips cut in the beginning and cut them into the following pieces.  Sew the pieces end to end to create (2) 5 1/2 ” x 63 1/2″ strips to be used for the side borders, (2) 5 1/2″ x 58 1/2″ strips to be used for the top and bottom borders, and (3) 48 1/2″ strips to be used for the applique.  Set the border strips aside.

Fuse your applique onto the three strips as follows.  For the first strip, start the applique 1″ in from the left and space the applique out over 32″.  For the second strip, start the applique out 8 1/4″ from the left and space the applique out over 32″. And for the third strip, start the applique out 1″ from the right and space the applique out over 32″.

Secure stitch the applique.  It is much easier to do this while it is in a strip, verses once it is sewn into the quilt top.



STEP 7 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP

And now you are ready to put the top together.  Lay your 16 blocks out in 4 rows of 4.  You can use the same layout I did or your own, just whatever looks pleasing to your eye.


Once you have your layout, sew the rows together the same way you did with the blocks.  Lay the second block in each row on the first and stitch along the aligned edge.  Then add the 3rd block, and then the 4th.

Press your rows and then lay them back out adding the appliqued strips in between each row.

Sew the rows together.  Once again, use the same process as putting the blocks together.  Just sewing the second row onto the first, and then adding the third and so on until the rows are all sewn together.

Now gather your borders that were set aside.  Place the side borders along the sides of the quilt top.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Press.  Then repeat the same process for the top and bottom border.  Press.

And your quilt top is finished!!


STEP 8 – FINISHING

Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will use the 7 strips you set aside at the beginning to do the binding.  I choose to quilt mine with a bit of a “Fairy Tale” scene.  I  used a water soluble pen to draw the basic sketch and then filled it in with all of my favorite FMQ designs.   The final touch of quilting that really made this quilt special was quilting a book  title of a family favorite onto each book.  To do that, I once again used a water soluble pen  and then quilt the titles in my very best loopy cursive 😉  To see more detailed quilted pictures see my blog 🙂



          One adorable 58″ x 73″ Read With Me Quilt that is sure to be a family favorite.  Whether you put it on a bed or just snuggle under it while reading stories, I hope it becomes a treasure.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Read With Me Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Hugs Before Kisses Quilt


Melissa Corry here from Happy Quilting.  I’m so excited to be back here at the Moda Bake Shop and share this wonderful Valentines Day Quilt.  XOXO is big in our family!!  I shared a little bit of the story behind it in my last Valentine’s tutorial for MBS.  This quilt is a twist on the basic lattice quilt adding the O’s to create the perfect quilt  for you and your Valentine to snuggle up in.  Hope you enjoy!!

1 Honey Honey Jelly Roll
3 1/4 Yards of Bella Solid White

3/4 Yard for Binding
5 Yards for Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

Choose 36 jelly roll strips from your bundle.  (I set aside 4 of the double prints)  Lay them out as follow, keeping them folded in half.  You can cut about 6 rows at a time.  Using the lines on your mat as a guide, cut a sliver off the end to remove the fold.  Then cut a 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangle, a 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle, and a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square.  Place the remaining bit in scrap.  You will have 2 of each cut.  Repeat with all 36 strips to have a total of (72) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles, (72) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles, and (72) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.

Now from your white yardage cut the following.

Separate your cut pieces into 2 groups as follows.  The first grouping will be used to create the O blocks and the second grouping will be used to create the X Blocks.

STEP 2 – O BLOCKS

We’ll start by making the O blocks.  Gather a 6 1/2″ square and (2) 6 1/2″ print strips and lay out as shown below.  Place the strips onto the square with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ along the edges, aligning as you sew.  Press towards the center square.  Repeat to make 18 center units total.  (Chain stitching saves time)

Gather a 6 1/2″ strip and (2) 2 1/2″ squares and lay out as shown below.  Place the squares onto the strip with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ along the edges, aligning as you sew.  Press towards the squares.  Repeat to make 36 top and bottom units total.  (Chain stitching will save lots of time 🙂

Lay (2) top and bottom units and one center unit out as follows.

Lay the top and bottom units onto the center with right sides together.  Nest the seams and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Press.  And now, you just have to add the sashing border.  Gather (2) 10 1/2″ white strips and (2) 12 1/2″ print strips and layout as shown.  Lay the top and bottom border onto the O with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam aligning as you go and press.  Repeat for the two side borders.

And the O Block is finished measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.  Repeat the last 2 sub-steps to make a total of 18 O Blocks.


STEP 3 – X BLOCKS

Gather a 10 1/2″ strip and 2 subcut white triangles and lay them out as shown.  Place the right hand square onto the strip with right sides together centering the triangle.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Open and finger press the triangle.  Lay the second triangle onto the left hand side of the strip with right sides together and lining the tips of the triangles up.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Press towards the triangles.  Repeat to make 72 lattice units.  (Chain stitching will save lots of time here 🙂

Print of the Squaring Up guide that is attached at the end of this post.  Lay any square ruler onto the guide.  (It is okay if your ruler is larger than the guide, it just means you will have to turn it while trimming.  If you have a 6 1/2″ square ruler it will save time 🙂 
Using masking tape, mark the edges of the diagonal lines creating a guide on your ruler for squaring up your units.
Place your marked ruler onto your unit, aligning the lines of the seams with the edges of the masking tape.  Trim the excess along the edge of your ruler.  If your ruler is larger, trim 2 sides, then spin your unit, realign and trim the remaining 2 sides.  
And you have a perfect lattice unit that measures 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″.  Repeat for all 72 lattice units.  
Lay 4 lattice units out as shown.  Lay the right hand side units onto the left hand sides with right sides together.  Align the diagonal seams and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and then press seams open.  Lay the top row onto the bottom row with right sides together.  Align the diagonal seams as well as the center seam and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and press the seam open.  

And the X Block is finished measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.  Repeat the last step to make a total of 18 O Blocks.

STEP 4- SEWING THE QUILT TOP 

Lay the X and O blocks alternating into 6 rows of 6.  Play with the layout until you get a look that is please to the eye.  I tried to separate the red and navy units most as they tend to pop.   Once you have a please layout you are ready to sew the blocks into row.

I find the easiest way to do this is to stack each row and place some sort of marker on the first block indicating what row it is.  This way you don’t lose the layout you just did.

Then just start sewing the blocks together, one block adding to the next, and the next until you have sewn all 6 in the row.  Then just repeat for all 6 rows.  I do not pin my blocks when sewing them into row as there are no seams to line up.  I just align as I go.

Press your seams in the rows towards the O blocks.  This will allow you to nest the seam and avoids bulk around the X corners.

Sewing the rows together is just like creating them.  Lay the first row onto the second with right sides together.  Nest the seams and pin them and then along the rest of the edge.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Press open.  Then repeat adding the third row to the now sewn together first and second row and so on.

And before you know it, you have a beautiful Hugs before Kisses Quilt Top!!

STEP 5- FINISHING THE QUILT

Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will need 8 strips for the binding.  I choose to quilt mine in an all-over free motion design of traveling loops and hearts to fit the Valentines theme.  There is also a video tutorial of how to do this design on the same page of my blog.  Just look down the page a bit 🙂 


One adorable Hugs before Kisses quilt measuring 72″ x 72″ perfect for snuggling under.

I hope you enjoyed and if you make your own Hugs Before Kisses quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt


Hello friends.  It’s me, Melissa from Happy Quilting!!  I am so excited to share another Moda Bake Shop tutorial with all of you.  When I saw Anne Sutton’s adorable panel from her Windsor Lane collection I just knew I wanted to make some blocks from it.  How cute are those adorable bunnies!!

And if you have a special little person to make a Bunny Blocks quilt for, then pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a fabulous Bunny Blocks Quilt Kit just for you, in either blue or pink 🙂  And of course, it is at great Burgundy Buttons prices 🙂

And as always, should you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to write me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I would love to help out in any way I can.  And, when you are finished your own Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt please add a picture of it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group.  I absolutely love seeing your work!!!

You will need:

1 Windsor Lane Junior Jelly Roll  (Junior rolls have 20 strips vs 40)
1 Windsor Lane Alphabet Panel
1 1/3 yard of the Taupe Bunnies – print 2844 15
2/3 yard of Bella Slids Off White – 200
1/2 yard of Bella Solids Stone – 128
3 Yards of Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Sort your Junior Jelly roll into the following piles of strips.  Put the scrap strips away (you can use them in a pieced backing if you desire) and your binding strips aside.

Separate your block strips into the 5 different prints and the one repeat print.  From the 5 different prints cut (16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each of the 5 strips.  From the repeat print strip cut (8) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.  Set 4 of these repeat print squares aside to be used for the corner blocks.  Place the remaining piece of repeat print with your binding pile.  Lastly, trim the selvages from your 4 sashing strips and then subcut them into 1 1/2″ x wof strips, scrapping the remaining 1″.

And now onto the yardage.

From your taupe bunny yardage cut a 5 1/2″ strip.  This should leave you with a 39 1/2″ piece, so be careful.  There’s no wiggle room.  Subcut your 5 1/2″ strip into 4 squares 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.  Scrap the remains.  Then square up the remaining yardage into a 39 1/2″ x 39 1/2″ square.

From your off white yardage cut (56) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles, (60) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles, and (28) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles.

From your stone yardage cut 10 strips 1 1/2″ x wof

I find it easiest to piece my borders now so they are ready when I get to that stage of the quilt.  Sub-cut one stone strip into (2) 1 1/2″ x 6″ strips and (2) 1 1/2″ x 14″ strips.  Subcut a second strip into (2) 1 1/2″ x 20″ strips.  Now add each subcut piece to the end of a stone wof strip.  You will have 8 strips total now at the sizes listed below.

STEP 2 – BUILDING BLOCKS

First, we will build the top half of the block.  Start by taking a print square and placing an off white 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle on either side.  Lay the right hand rectangle onto the square with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  No need for pins 😉  Press.  Now place the left hand rectangle onto the square with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Make 28 sets.  (See below for chain stitching instructions)

Chain Stitching wills save an enormous amount of time on this quilt, so when doing the step above (and steps to come), go ahead and place the right hand side on your block, stitch your seam, and then without clipping your threads, add another set, and another set, and keep stitching until you have done 28 sets. Then clip your threads, press them all, and then repeat on the left hand side.

Now, the bottom of the block.  Lay 2 squares and an off white 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle out as shown below.  Place the white rectangle onto the square on the right with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Again, no pins needed 😉  Press.  Now place the left hand square onto the pieced rectangle with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Once again, chain stitch 28 sets.

Now to finish making the block.  And like before, you will be chain stitching each step for 28 sets.   Lay your top and bottom pieced sets out along with your (2) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ white rectangles as follows.  Place a long white rectangle onto the top pieced set with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  (Once again, I didn’t use pins, but you do what you are comfortable with 🙂  Press.  Lay your bottom pieced set onto your now pieced white rectangle and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Lastly, place the white rectangle onto the right hand side of your pieced block and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.

Take your 28 pieced blocks and remaining 4 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles and lay them out as follows into 4 rows.  Place the remaining rectangle onto the right hand side of the first block in each row and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Now, place the first block in the row onto the second with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for each block until all 7 blocks are stitched into a row.  Repeat for all 4 rows.  Set pieced rows aside.

STEP 3 – APPLIQUE & TRAPUNTO

Trapunto is a technique in quilting that makes a chosen part of the quilt, normally applique, puffier.  Start by gathering your 4 taupe bunny 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares and your (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ repeat squares.  Cut (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from a fusing agent, I use Heat N Bond.  You will be repeating these steps for all 4 corner squares.  Fold the taupe square into 4’s and finger press to find the center.  Fuse the Heat N Bond squares to the repeat print squares.  Then, fuse the repeat print squares to the center of the taupe square using the fold lines as a guide.

Now, for the puffy part.  I like to use 2 squares of batting to make it extra puffy.  Cut (8) 3″ squares from cotton batting.  Spray them with a coat of spray baste and then stick them to the wrong side of the applique.  You can see through the print to know where to place the batting.  Try to center it directly on top of the applique.  Simply stack the 2 squares on top of one another.  If you don’t have spray baste you don’t need to run out and buy some.  Just pin around the very edges of the batting to hold it in place.

Now to tack it down. On the right side of your print, sew a blanket stitch (or zig zag or straight stitch, whichever you prefer) around the edge of the applique tacking it down.  You will start to see it get puffy.  Once stitched, flip your square over and trim away the excess batting so it is nice and close to the stitch line. Be super careful here not to cut your fabric.  You will need to pull the fabric back so it no longer sticks to the batting before trimming 😉  Once you have your 4 corners done you can move to the center of your quilt.

Cut your applique blocks from your panel.  Lay them out in a pleasing manner and use the same applique technique as above to fuse them in place.  If you don’t like Dream Big, you can use other saying with just one panel such as “Tuck Me In”, or “Precious” or “Charming” or “Rock A Bye” or “Love Bug” or any other phrase that only uses each letter once 🙂  

Once your applique is fused in place, cut your batting into 5″ squares and adhere it to the wrong side of the fabric directly over the applique blocks, just like before.

And once again, stitch a blanket stitch or preferred stitch around the edge of the applique.  I added an extra straight stitch around the inside border of the blocks.  Once you are done stitching trim your batting. It won’t be super puffy yet but don’t worry, it really pops up once you are done quilting!

STEP 4 – ADDING BORDERS


Now that the applique and trapunto is done you can finish piecing your quilt.  Start by adding the white and blue striped borders.  I added the bunny ones to the top and bottom and the plain stripes to the side.  Lay them out as follows.

Lay the top and bottom border onto the edge of your quilt top.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning as you go.  Trim the excess fabric and then press towards the border.  (Word of warning here, the trapunto makes the quilt a little heavier than usual and want’s to pull your quilt, be sure to align nice and tight or you will end up with wrinkles like I did.  But if you do get wrinkles, don’t worry, you can smooth them out when you baste 🙂

Now, lay the side borders onto either side of the quilt with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along either side aligning as you go, trim the excess, and them press towards the border.

Now, lay your 2 wof stone strips along the top and bottom of your quilt and your 2 46″ stone strips along the sides of your quilt.  Add this stone border using the same process as above.

Now, you are ready to add your block border.  Start by laying out as follows.  Place a corner block onto the top and bottom of each of your side rows.  With right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge and then press towards the corner blocks.

Now it is the same border adding process except you will want to pin these borders rathern than alignign as you go.   Start by adding the top and bottom borders.  Then add the side borders, taking care to match and pin your seams at the corner intersections.

Lastly, using your remaining 4 grey strips, add the final border using the same process, trimming the excess and pressing towards the border.  And your top is finished!!

STEP 5 – FINISHING

To finish you quilt go create your quilt sandwich and baste it using either spray or pin basting.  Then quilt your quilt sandwich.  I choose to do some custom quilting.  You will want to do a rather dense quilting stitch around the trapunto to really make it pop!!  Lastly use the 5 remaining strips and the leftover repeat strip to create your binding strip and then bind your quilt.    If you are new to quilting and need some pointers on how to finish your quilt you can see my video tutorials going over basting, quilting, and binding in detail.  


One adorable Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt measuring 55″ x 55″ with cute puffy blocks that any little one will enjoy playing with for hours!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Studio Tour: Happy Quilting

Today we are touring the studio of  Moda Bake Shop Chef Melissa Corry of the blog Happy Quilting.

{Have you joined our Show Off Your Stash Link Party yet? Come see other reader sewing spaces.}

Here we go! Melissa has a lovely and well-organized space to sew. She calls it her happy place and it is easy to see why.

She has a spot for everything, and she keeps it all organized. Her fabric is stacked and stored by color. Melissa tells us that her full-size ironing board is indispensable. 

Even her scraps are stored in an organized fashion:


I think the theme of this studio is, “A place for everything, and everything in its place!” Thanks for letting us into your space, Melissa! You can see more of her studio {here}.

Color-Coding My Scraps,