Mister DJ Quilt


Hello Moda Bake Shop Friends!   Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting here and I am so excited to be sharing a new quilt with you today.  My oldest son is the only person in the family that did not have a homemade bedspread.  It has been put on hold because he was insistent on have “cool” fabrics.

Sphere by Zen Chic was the perfect fit and I set out to make an equally “cool” design.  Inspired by my son’s love for music (of all varieties and volume 🙂 Mister DJ was created and can I just say,  he loves it!!!  So do you have a tween that needs a new bedspread as well??  Well, let’s show you how to do it 🙂

To make a twin sized 70″ x 89″ Mister DJ quilt you will need:

2 Sphere Jelly Rolls
2 Yards of Bella Solid Grass
5 1/2 Yards of Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

Begin by separating your jelly roll strips into 2 piles, one of Low Volume (or light) prints and one of High Volume (or dark) prints.

From the High Volume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
      2 1/2″ x 11″        2 1/2″ x 10″          2 1/2″ x 9″        2 1/2″ x 8″           2 1/2″ x 7″
      2 1/2″ x 6″          2 1/2″ x 5″            2 1/2″ x 4″        2 1/2″ x 3″           2 1/2″ x 2″
I found the easiest way to do this is to stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and  repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.  (You will have to cut a few from the scraps as you will have 40 strips and not 42)

From the LowVolume Strips cut 21 of each of the following strip sizes:
      2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
      2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″          2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″            2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″        2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″           2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
Once again,  stack up 4-5 jelly rolls and cut all the even sizes from each strip and repeat the process for 21 strips so you have a total of 21 pieces of each even size.  Then do the same for the odd sizes.

Now, pair each High Volume piece with the opposite size Low Volume strip.  So the 11 1/2″ goes with the 2″ and the 10 1/2″ goes with the 3″ and so on down the line.  Set these aside for the moment.

From the Bella Solid Grass yardage cut the following:
  (9) 2 1/2″ x wof (width of fabric) strips to be used for binding
  (10) 1 1/2″ x wof strips – Trim the selvage and sew 2 strips end to end to create (5) 1 1/2″ x 84 strips.
   (210) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles

STEP 2 – ASSEMBLING THE STRIPS

Now with the cutting done you are ready to start assembling the blocks.   Grab the first set of your grouped fabric strips  (The 11 /2″ Low Volumes and 2″ High Volumes).  You will be sewing these into a row by first sewing the Solid Grass rectangle to the Low Volume strip and then second, adding the print strip to the Solid Grass Rectangle.

The easiest way to do this is by chain stitching.  (Meaning, not clipping your threads after each strip but continually feeding strips through the machine until you are done with your pile.)  Start by placing the Grass rectangle onto the Low Volume strip with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 of your sets.  Clip the threads between your strips.

Now, you can add the High Volume strip.  Place the High Volume strip onto the Grass rectangle with right sides together and again chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 21 strips.  Clip your threads.

Now repeat this process for each of your (10) grouped sets of 21 strips.  In the end you will have 210 pieced strips total.  You want the Low Volume print to always be on the top.   Press your strip sets.

STEP 3 – ASSEMBLING THE BLOCKS

With your strips all set, you are ready to start sewing your blocks together.  So take all of your strip sets and mix them up in a large pile.

Now, grab 2 random strips and place them right sides together taking care that the Low Volume print in both strips is on the top and the High Volume print is on the bottom.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the side of the strip, aligning the edges as you sew.  Chain stitch 30 of these to make 30 strip sets of 2.  Clip the threads between the 30 sets.

Now, you are going to add a third strip to the sets of 2.  Align another randomly chosen strip along the side of the second strip with the Low Volume prints on top and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  If you happen to have randomly chosen a strip where the Grass Rectangle is in the same spot as the strip set, take care to match the seams.  You can just align these with your fingers as shown.   Chain stitch all 30 sets.

Clip your threads between your sets and you are ready to add a fourth row.  Continue this process until you have added a total of 7 rows in each set.    Clip the threads between sets.

So now you will have 30 blocks each consisting of 7 vertical rows that have the Low Volume prints on top and the High Volume prints on the bottom.

Press the seams in the blocks to one direction.  They should now measure 14 1/2″ square.

STEP 4 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP

And now you can put your quilt top together!   Layout 6 rows of 5 blocks.  Play with the layout until it is pleasing to the eye.  Once you have layout complete mark the blocks so you remember which row is which 🙂  Now, sew the blocks into rows.  To do this, just place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  The place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue in this fashion until all 5 blocks in the row are sewn together.  Repeat for all 6 rows.

Now place a Grass Sashing Strip that you made clear at the beginning onto to the top of rows 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning the fabric as you sew.

Press all of the seams towards the sashing.  Trim the excess sashing at the end of each row.

Now sew the rows together.  This is just like making the rows only on a larger scale.  Place row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam towards the sashing.   Now place row 3 onto the now sewn together row 1 and 2 with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam.  Continue in this fashion until all the rows are sewn together.

And your quilt top is complete!!!  Great job!!!

STEP 5 – FINISHING

Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   Cut your backing into 2 pieces 99″ x WOF and piece together with a 1/2″ seam.   You will use the 9 strips you cut and set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

One ultra modern, High/Low Volume  70″ x 89″ Mister DJ twin sized quilt.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Mister DJ Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Twists and Turns


Hello fellow bakers 🙂  I’m Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting and I am super excited to share a new quilt with you today.  Twists and Turns is a super easy quilt that is made from one block but has endless layout possibilities.  So whether you are into a modern square, an improv maze, or a traditional braid, you are sure to find the quilt design that fits you 😉  So, let’s get right to it 🙂

To make a Twists and Turns 84″x 84″ picnic size quilt you will need:

2 Bluebird Park Jelly Rolls by Kate and Birdie
2 1/6 Yards of the Grey Flower print  (13106 18)
1 1/6 Yards of the Yellow print  (13108 19)
5 Yards of any print for Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

We will start with the Yardage.  From the Grey print yardage, cut (30) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.  From those strips sub-cut (36) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, (36) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strips, and (36) 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips.  Set aside.  From the Yellow print yardage, cut (15) 2 1/2″  x WOF strips.  From those strips sub-cut *36) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ strips and (36) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips.  Set Aside.

Now it’s time to move onto the jelly rolls.  From the 2 Jelly Rolls select 54 strips.  I used the light grey, green, blue, and coral strips setting aside the yellow and dark grey strips for binding.

Divide the 54 strips into 2 piles, one pile of 18 strips and one pile of 36 strips.  Evenly distribute the colors in each pile.

From the pile of 18 strips, cut each strip while folded into a 10 1/2″ and (2) 4 1/2″ increments.  This will create (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles and (2) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strips from each strip.  Cut all 18 strips this way and group the pieces into piles of similar size.

From the pile of 36 strips, open the strip and cut one of each of the following pieces from the strip.  A 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x  8 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x  6 1/2″ piece, and a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square.  Cut each of these pieces from all 36 strips.  Group these with the other prints into piles of similar size.

From your Jelly Rolls you should now have the following pieces

STEP 2 – BUILDING BLOCK

To start the block, gather a grey yardage 2 1/2″ square and a colored print 2 1/2″ square.  Place with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you sew.

Chain stitch 36 similar sets.  Chain stitching is just sewing one set after another without clipping threads in between.  Once you are through sewing all 36 sets, clip the threads and press toward the colored print.

Now, layout your pieced set and a colored print 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle as shown.  Place the rectangle onto the pieced set with right sides together and aligning the raw edge.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.

Repeat for all 36 pieced sets chain stitching as you go.  Once you have chain stitched all 36 sets, clip the threads and press towards the 4 1/2″ print piece.

And now the process will repeat again and again 🙂

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a yellow yardage 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a yellow yardage 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Almost done!!!

Grab a grey yardage 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a grey yardage 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

You should now have (36) 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ blocks that look something like this 🙂

STEP 3 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP


And now is the really fun part.  This is where you get to decide what kind of a quilt layout you want.  There are so many possibilities.  These are a few of my favorite 🙂    Play with the blocks until you have the layout you love, and there are lots more options than shown 😉  Once you have a layout you like, sew the blocks into rows and the rows into the quilt top 🙂

 

If you decide to do the staircase layout, the same as I did, it is easiest to first sew the blocks into the two  sets of two shown below, making 9 of each set.

And then sew the sets into two sets of row, making 3 of each row as shown.

And lastly, sewing the rows into the quilt top.

STEP 4 – FINISHING

Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will use 8 strips you set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

One adorable 84″ x 84″ Twists and Turns Quilt that is just the design for you 🙂  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Twists and Turns Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Ring Around Baby Quilt


Hi There 🙂   It’s me, Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to share my Ring Around Baby Quilt!!  I really love the bold prints and colors of Zen Chic’s Comma line.  They make it so much fun to work with.  So let’s get right to it!!

1 Comma Layer Cake
1 yard of favorite black print for pieced back, I used 1513 16
1/4 yard of favorite white print for pieced back, I used 1513 11
1/3 yard of favorite print for binding, I used 1512 20
Spray Baste

STEP 1 – PIECING THE QUILT TOP

From your layer cake select the 5 black/white squares, the 3 grey/black squares, and the 8 white/black squares.  Lay them out in a 4 x 4 grid alternating black and white prints as shown.

Sew the blocks into rows.   Place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge as shown in row 1.  I don’t pin these, I just align as I go.  Then place the third block onto the now sewn together 1st and 2nd blocks and sew a 1/4″ seam as shown in row 2.  Repeat process for the fourth block as shown in row 4.  Press towards the black/grey blocks.

 Now you can sew the rows together.  Place Row 1 onto Row 2 and Row 3 onto Row 4 with right sides together.  Take care to nest your seams and pin in place.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges.  Repeat the same process to sew Row 1/2 and Row 3/4 together.

Press your rows.  Your quilt top will look something like this 🙂  Go ahead and set it aside for a bit.

STEP 2 – CUTTING THE APPLIQUE

Gather your remaining layer cake squares.  I set aside the 2 reprint squares and the square that matched my binding fabric to use on my Bonus Tutorial mentioned later.  Cut each of the remaining (21) 10″ squares into (4) 5″ squares.  For your applique, you can choose to cut perfect circles or wonky circles.

To make perfect circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Press the folds.  Using a compass, align the point on the folded center and draw a quarter circle.  Repeat for one to two more arcs.  Cut along the drawn lines.

And you have a varied number of rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.

To make wonky circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Finger press the folds.  Cut an arced shape over the folded center   Repeat for one to two more arcs.

And you have a varied number of wonky rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.  And you can really play with the wonky factor here.

Repeat for all of your 5″ squares so you end up with a pile of rings and a pile of circles.  Set the circles aside as you wont be needing them.  (They can be used in the Bonus Tutorial.)

STEP 3 – ADDING APPLIQUE TO QUILT SANDWICH 

First, you need to piece the quilt back so you can make a quilt sandwich.  Cut your yard backing piece into 2 pieces measuring as follows.  Trim the selvages from your 1/4″ fabric.  Sew the three pieces together using a 1/2″ seams.  Press the seams to the darker print.  (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture so you get a graphic.)

Create your quilt sandwich using spray baste.  The reason I suggest Spray Baste is because it will be difficult to add the applique with a whole bunch of pins in the way.  If you are new to using spray baste for creating a quilt sandwich you can see my video tutorial on how to do so.

And now you are ready to add the rings 🙂  Place approximately 4 rings in a box an spray with a coating of spray baste.  You don’t want to work with much more than that at a time or the baste will start to dry out.

Place the first ring onto your quilt top leaving a bubble where you would like to add the next ring.

Place the next ring onto the quilt top so that it links with the first.  At one of the intersections of the two rings, cut the new ring as shown.

Slide the two cut edges under the bubble of the first ring.  Press the rings in place leaving a new bubble in the second ring to add a third ring.

Continue the process.  Start new groupings and vary the size and shape of each grouping.  Some of my groups have up to 6 rings and some only two.  The more variation the better.

Continue until you have covered the entire quilt.  I ended up with about 2 rings left over.

STEP 4 – FINISHING QUILT

And now you are ready to finish the quilt.  Your quilt sandwich is already made so you can move right onto quilting.  You will want to quilt this with a rather dense FMQ design to ensure that all of those cut edges get stitched down.  I choose to do a Interlocking Circles FMQ design and you can see a video tutorial on how to do this here.  It also gives some insights on quilting with all of the raw edges.  You will have to stop occasionally and lift your presser foot and then place it on top of the edge of the applique as sometimes it tends to pop up.  You will notice a few of my circles have been pinned.  Those were for the really stubborn ones that just didn’t want to stay in place.

Once you are finished quilting all that remains is to bind it.  Cut your binding fabric into (4) 2 1/2 ” strips and bind your quilt.  I machine quilted this to add strength as it is a baby quilt.  If you are new to this you can see a video tutorial on binding here.

One adorably chic and modern Ring Around baby quilt measuring 38″ x 38″, a perfect gift for a special little one.

And . . . If you want to finish that gift off with another little handmade treasure and use up your leftover circles at the same time, pop on over to Happy Quilting for this bonus Chic Circles Car Seat Cover Tutorial.

Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Ring Around Baby Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Read With Me Quilt



Hi Moda Bake Shop Readers!!  I’m Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to be back here at the Moda Bake Shop to share my Read With Me quilt!! This fun twist on a standard “book” quilt uses typography and adorable quilting to add a whimsical touch.  Adding quilted titles of my families books makes this quilt a treasured heirloom.  I hope you enjoy the tutorial and even more, I hope you enjoy creating your own Read With Me quilt!!

To make your own Read With Me quilt you will need :

1 Noteworthy Jell Roll
2 Yards of Moda Bella Solid White
1/2 Yard of Moda Bella Solid Black

4 Yards of your favorite print for Backing

Applique Templates (at the end of the tutorial)
1/2 yard of Heat N Bond
Twin size or 68″ x 82″ piece of Batting

Got your Ingredient’s, let’s get piecing!!

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Start by breaking out that jelly roll.  Choose 7 strips and set them aside to be used for your binding.  I choose to use the “white” strips for my binding.

From the remaining jelly roll strips, alternating prints and colors for each group cut
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangles
   (24) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (28) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles
   (28) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles


From your white yardage cut the following
   (10) 5 1/2″ x Width of Fabric Strips
   (4) 3″ x 15″ rectangles
   (4) 2 1/2″ x 6″ rectangles
   (4) 1 1/2″ x 6″ rectangles
   (36) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles
   (8) 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles
   (32) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares

STEP 2 – BLOCK A

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (3) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (3) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.



Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.




STEP 3 – BLOCK B

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (2) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (3) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles
   (3) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (2) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.


Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.



STEP 4 – BLOCK C

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangle, (1) 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle,
        (1) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle and (1) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle
   (2) 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ solid rectangles, (3) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (3) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.




Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips on either end of the strip and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 6 rows together.  Start by placing the second row onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third row onto the now sewn together first and second rpw and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 6 rows are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.



STEP 5 – BLOCK D

Block D has an angled book.  To make this start by slicing a 3″ x 15″ solid rectangle in half diagonally.


Place a 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ print rectangle between the 2 triangles, taking care to center the strip.  Lay the strip onto the top triangle.  Sew a 1/4″ seam aligning the raw edges.  Press.  Lay the bottom triangle onto the strip and sew a 1/4″ seam aligning the raw edges.  Press.  Using the ends of the strip as a guide, trim the top and bottom of the unit even with the ends of the strip.

Now gather a 2 1/2″ x 6″ solid rectangle and a 1 1/2″ x 6″ solid rectangle.  Lay the 2 1/2″ strip along the bottom of the block and the /2″ strip along the top of the block aligning the raw edges.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along each edge and press.

Now all that is left is trimming.  The trimming has to be done one side at a time and needs to be precise or you will end up with a floating book 🙂
    Place your long ruler so the top left hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 4 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler and the bottom right hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the right hand edge of your ruler.
    Place your long ruler so the right hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line on your ruler.  Trim along the left hand edge of your ruler.
     Place your long ruler so that the right hand side of the block aligns with the edge of the ruler, the left hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line and the bottom right hand corner of the print strip aligns with the 12 1/4″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the top edge of the ruler.
     Place your long ruler so that the right hand side of the block aligns with the edge of the ruler, the left hand side of the block aligns with the 4 1/2″ vertical line and the top of the block aligns with the 12 1/2″ horizontal mark on your ruler.  Trim along the bottom edge of the ruler.

You know you will have trimmed correctly if the three corners of the book that are pointed out are 1/4″ away from the nearest edge.

Gather the following size pieces and lay them out as shown.

   (2) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ print rectangles, (1) 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ rectangles, and (1) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles, and a pieced angle book block.
   (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ solid square, and (1) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle.

Lay the solid rectangles onto the tops of the print strips and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges.  Press.

Sew the 5 columns together.  Start by placing the second column onto the first, sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Then place the third column onto the now sewn together first and second columns and sew a 1/4″ seam and so on until all 5 columns are sewn together.  Press.

Repeat this step to make a total of 4 blocks each measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.


STEP 6 – APPLIQUE STRIPS


Now the blocks are done and you can move onto the applique.  If you are new to applique, and need a bit more instruction on how to do it, please see my video tutorial on Applique Basics here.    From your black yardage lined with Heat N Bond cut the following letters.  (use the templates at the end of the post or make your own if you prefer a different font.)

Grab the WOF strips cut in the beginning and cut them into the following pieces.  Sew the pieces end to end to create (2) 5 1/2 ” x 63 1/2″ strips to be used for the side borders, (2) 5 1/2″ x 58 1/2″ strips to be used for the top and bottom borders, and (3) 48 1/2″ strips to be used for the applique.  Set the border strips aside.

Fuse your applique onto the three strips as follows.  For the first strip, start the applique 1″ in from the left and space the applique out over 32″.  For the second strip, start the applique out 8 1/4″ from the left and space the applique out over 32″. And for the third strip, start the applique out 1″ from the right and space the applique out over 32″.

Secure stitch the applique.  It is much easier to do this while it is in a strip, verses once it is sewn into the quilt top.



STEP 7 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP

And now you are ready to put the top together.  Lay your 16 blocks out in 4 rows of 4.  You can use the same layout I did or your own, just whatever looks pleasing to your eye.


Once you have your layout, sew the rows together the same way you did with the blocks.  Lay the second block in each row on the first and stitch along the aligned edge.  Then add the 3rd block, and then the 4th.

Press your rows and then lay them back out adding the appliqued strips in between each row.

Sew the rows together.  Once again, use the same process as putting the blocks together.  Just sewing the second row onto the first, and then adding the third and so on until the rows are all sewn together.

Now gather your borders that were set aside.  Place the side borders along the sides of the quilt top.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Press.  Then repeat the same process for the top and bottom border.  Press.

And your quilt top is finished!!


STEP 8 – FINISHING

Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will use the 7 strips you set aside at the beginning to do the binding.  I choose to quilt mine with a bit of a “Fairy Tale” scene.  I  used a water soluble pen to draw the basic sketch and then filled it in with all of my favorite FMQ designs.   The final touch of quilting that really made this quilt special was quilting a book  title of a family favorite onto each book.  To do that, I once again used a water soluble pen  and then quilt the titles in my very best loopy cursive 😉  To see more detailed quilted pictures see my blog 🙂



          One adorable 58″ x 73″ Read With Me Quilt that is sure to be a family favorite.  Whether you put it on a bed or just snuggle under it while reading stories, I hope it becomes a treasure.  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Read With Me Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Hugs Before Kisses Quilt


Melissa Corry here from Happy Quilting.  I’m so excited to be back here at the Moda Bake Shop and share this wonderful Valentines Day Quilt.  XOXO is big in our family!!  I shared a little bit of the story behind it in my last Valentine’s tutorial for MBS.  This quilt is a twist on the basic lattice quilt adding the O’s to create the perfect quilt  for you and your Valentine to snuggle up in.  Hope you enjoy!!

1 Honey Honey Jelly Roll
3 1/4 Yards of Bella Solid White

3/4 Yard for Binding
5 Yards for Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

Choose 36 jelly roll strips from your bundle.  (I set aside 4 of the double prints)  Lay them out as follow, keeping them folded in half.  You can cut about 6 rows at a time.  Using the lines on your mat as a guide, cut a sliver off the end to remove the fold.  Then cut a 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangle, a 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle, and a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square.  Place the remaining bit in scrap.  You will have 2 of each cut.  Repeat with all 36 strips to have a total of (72) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles, (72) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles, and (72) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.

Now from your white yardage cut the following.

Separate your cut pieces into 2 groups as follows.  The first grouping will be used to create the O blocks and the second grouping will be used to create the X Blocks.

STEP 2 – O BLOCKS

We’ll start by making the O blocks.  Gather a 6 1/2″ square and (2) 6 1/2″ print strips and lay out as shown below.  Place the strips onto the square with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ along the edges, aligning as you sew.  Press towards the center square.  Repeat to make 18 center units total.  (Chain stitching saves time)

Gather a 6 1/2″ strip and (2) 2 1/2″ squares and lay out as shown below.  Place the squares onto the strip with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ along the edges, aligning as you sew.  Press towards the squares.  Repeat to make 36 top and bottom units total.  (Chain stitching will save lots of time 🙂

Lay (2) top and bottom units and one center unit out as follows.

Lay the top and bottom units onto the center with right sides together.  Nest the seams and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Press.  And now, you just have to add the sashing border.  Gather (2) 10 1/2″ white strips and (2) 12 1/2″ print strips and layout as shown.  Lay the top and bottom border onto the O with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam aligning as you go and press.  Repeat for the two side borders.

And the O Block is finished measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.  Repeat the last 2 sub-steps to make a total of 18 O Blocks.


STEP 3 – X BLOCKS

Gather a 10 1/2″ strip and 2 subcut white triangles and lay them out as shown.  Place the right hand square onto the strip with right sides together centering the triangle.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Open and finger press the triangle.  Lay the second triangle onto the left hand side of the strip with right sides together and lining the tips of the triangles up.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you go.  Press towards the triangles.  Repeat to make 72 lattice units.  (Chain stitching will save lots of time here 🙂

Print of the Squaring Up guide that is attached at the end of this post.  Lay any square ruler onto the guide.  (It is okay if your ruler is larger than the guide, it just means you will have to turn it while trimming.  If you have a 6 1/2″ square ruler it will save time 🙂 
Using masking tape, mark the edges of the diagonal lines creating a guide on your ruler for squaring up your units.
Place your marked ruler onto your unit, aligning the lines of the seams with the edges of the masking tape.  Trim the excess along the edge of your ruler.  If your ruler is larger, trim 2 sides, then spin your unit, realign and trim the remaining 2 sides.  
And you have a perfect lattice unit that measures 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″.  Repeat for all 72 lattice units.  
Lay 4 lattice units out as shown.  Lay the right hand side units onto the left hand sides with right sides together.  Align the diagonal seams and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and then press seams open.  Lay the top row onto the bottom row with right sides together.  Align the diagonal seams as well as the center seam and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and press the seam open.  

And the X Block is finished measuring 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″.  Repeat the last step to make a total of 18 O Blocks.

STEP 4- SEWING THE QUILT TOP 

Lay the X and O blocks alternating into 6 rows of 6.  Play with the layout until you get a look that is please to the eye.  I tried to separate the red and navy units most as they tend to pop.   Once you have a please layout you are ready to sew the blocks into row.

I find the easiest way to do this is to stack each row and place some sort of marker on the first block indicating what row it is.  This way you don’t lose the layout you just did.

Then just start sewing the blocks together, one block adding to the next, and the next until you have sewn all 6 in the row.  Then just repeat for all 6 rows.  I do not pin my blocks when sewing them into row as there are no seams to line up.  I just align as I go.

Press your seams in the rows towards the O blocks.  This will allow you to nest the seam and avoids bulk around the X corners.

Sewing the rows together is just like creating them.  Lay the first row onto the second with right sides together.  Nest the seams and pin them and then along the rest of the edge.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Press open.  Then repeat adding the third row to the now sewn together first and second row and so on.

And before you know it, you have a beautiful Hugs before Kisses Quilt Top!!

STEP 5- FINISHING THE QUILT

Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will need 8 strips for the binding.  I choose to quilt mine in an all-over free motion design of traveling loops and hearts to fit the Valentines theme.  There is also a video tutorial of how to do this design on the same page of my blog.  Just look down the page a bit 🙂 


One adorable Hugs before Kisses quilt measuring 72″ x 72″ perfect for snuggling under.

I hope you enjoyed and if you make your own Hugs Before Kisses quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt


Hello friends.  It’s me, Melissa from Happy Quilting!!  I am so excited to share another Moda Bake Shop tutorial with all of you.  When I saw Anne Sutton’s adorable panel from her Windsor Lane collection I just knew I wanted to make some blocks from it.  How cute are those adorable bunnies!!

And if you have a special little person to make a Bunny Blocks quilt for, then pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a fabulous Bunny Blocks Quilt Kit just for you, in either blue or pink 🙂  And of course, it is at great Burgundy Buttons prices 🙂

And as always, should you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to write me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I would love to help out in any way I can.  And, when you are finished your own Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt please add a picture of it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group.  I absolutely love seeing your work!!!

You will need:

1 Windsor Lane Junior Jelly Roll  (Junior rolls have 20 strips vs 40)
1 Windsor Lane Alphabet Panel
1 1/3 yard of the Taupe Bunnies – print 2844 15
2/3 yard of Bella Slids Off White – 200
1/2 yard of Bella Solids Stone – 128
3 Yards of Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Sort your Junior Jelly roll into the following piles of strips.  Put the scrap strips away (you can use them in a pieced backing if you desire) and your binding strips aside.

Separate your block strips into the 5 different prints and the one repeat print.  From the 5 different prints cut (16) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from each of the 5 strips.  From the repeat print strip cut (8) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.  Set 4 of these repeat print squares aside to be used for the corner blocks.  Place the remaining piece of repeat print with your binding pile.  Lastly, trim the selvages from your 4 sashing strips and then subcut them into 1 1/2″ x wof strips, scrapping the remaining 1″.

And now onto the yardage.

From your taupe bunny yardage cut a 5 1/2″ strip.  This should leave you with a 39 1/2″ piece, so be careful.  There’s no wiggle room.  Subcut your 5 1/2″ strip into 4 squares 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.  Scrap the remains.  Then square up the remaining yardage into a 39 1/2″ x 39 1/2″ square.

From your off white yardage cut (56) 2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles, (60) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles, and (28) 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles.

From your stone yardage cut 10 strips 1 1/2″ x wof

I find it easiest to piece my borders now so they are ready when I get to that stage of the quilt.  Sub-cut one stone strip into (2) 1 1/2″ x 6″ strips and (2) 1 1/2″ x 14″ strips.  Subcut a second strip into (2) 1 1/2″ x 20″ strips.  Now add each subcut piece to the end of a stone wof strip.  You will have 8 strips total now at the sizes listed below.

STEP 2 – BUILDING BLOCKS

First, we will build the top half of the block.  Start by taking a print square and placing an off white 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle on either side.  Lay the right hand rectangle onto the square with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  No need for pins 😉  Press.  Now place the left hand rectangle onto the square with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Make 28 sets.  (See below for chain stitching instructions)

Chain Stitching wills save an enormous amount of time on this quilt, so when doing the step above (and steps to come), go ahead and place the right hand side on your block, stitch your seam, and then without clipping your threads, add another set, and another set, and keep stitching until you have done 28 sets. Then clip your threads, press them all, and then repeat on the left hand side.

Now, the bottom of the block.  Lay 2 squares and an off white 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle out as shown below.  Place the white rectangle onto the square on the right with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Again, no pins needed 😉  Press.  Now place the left hand square onto the pieced rectangle with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Once again, chain stitch 28 sets.

Now to finish making the block.  And like before, you will be chain stitching each step for 28 sets.   Lay your top and bottom pieced sets out along with your (2) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ white rectangles as follows.  Place a long white rectangle onto the top pieced set with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  (Once again, I didn’t use pins, but you do what you are comfortable with 🙂  Press.  Lay your bottom pieced set onto your now pieced white rectangle and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Lastly, place the white rectangle onto the right hand side of your pieced block and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.

Take your 28 pieced blocks and remaining 4 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles and lay them out as follows into 4 rows.  Place the remaining rectangle onto the right hand side of the first block in each row and with right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press.  Now, place the first block in the row onto the second with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for each block until all 7 blocks are stitched into a row.  Repeat for all 4 rows.  Set pieced rows aside.

STEP 3 – APPLIQUE & TRAPUNTO

Trapunto is a technique in quilting that makes a chosen part of the quilt, normally applique, puffier.  Start by gathering your 4 taupe bunny 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares and your (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ repeat squares.  Cut (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from a fusing agent, I use Heat N Bond.  You will be repeating these steps for all 4 corner squares.  Fold the taupe square into 4’s and finger press to find the center.  Fuse the Heat N Bond squares to the repeat print squares.  Then, fuse the repeat print squares to the center of the taupe square using the fold lines as a guide.

Now, for the puffy part.  I like to use 2 squares of batting to make it extra puffy.  Cut (8) 3″ squares from cotton batting.  Spray them with a coat of spray baste and then stick them to the wrong side of the applique.  You can see through the print to know where to place the batting.  Try to center it directly on top of the applique.  Simply stack the 2 squares on top of one another.  If you don’t have spray baste you don’t need to run out and buy some.  Just pin around the very edges of the batting to hold it in place.

Now to tack it down. On the right side of your print, sew a blanket stitch (or zig zag or straight stitch, whichever you prefer) around the edge of the applique tacking it down.  You will start to see it get puffy.  Once stitched, flip your square over and trim away the excess batting so it is nice and close to the stitch line. Be super careful here not to cut your fabric.  You will need to pull the fabric back so it no longer sticks to the batting before trimming 😉  Once you have your 4 corners done you can move to the center of your quilt.

Cut your applique blocks from your panel.  Lay them out in a pleasing manner and use the same applique technique as above to fuse them in place.  If you don’t like Dream Big, you can use other saying with just one panel such as “Tuck Me In”, or “Precious” or “Charming” or “Rock A Bye” or “Love Bug” or any other phrase that only uses each letter once 🙂  

Once your applique is fused in place, cut your batting into 5″ squares and adhere it to the wrong side of the fabric directly over the applique blocks, just like before.

And once again, stitch a blanket stitch or preferred stitch around the edge of the applique.  I added an extra straight stitch around the inside border of the blocks.  Once you are done stitching trim your batting. It won’t be super puffy yet but don’t worry, it really pops up once you are done quilting!

STEP 4 – ADDING BORDERS


Now that the applique and trapunto is done you can finish piecing your quilt.  Start by adding the white and blue striped borders.  I added the bunny ones to the top and bottom and the plain stripes to the side.  Lay them out as follows.

Lay the top and bottom border onto the edge of your quilt top.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge aligning as you go.  Trim the excess fabric and then press towards the border.  (Word of warning here, the trapunto makes the quilt a little heavier than usual and want’s to pull your quilt, be sure to align nice and tight or you will end up with wrinkles like I did.  But if you do get wrinkles, don’t worry, you can smooth them out when you baste 🙂

Now, lay the side borders onto either side of the quilt with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along either side aligning as you go, trim the excess, and them press towards the border.

Now, lay your 2 wof stone strips along the top and bottom of your quilt and your 2 46″ stone strips along the sides of your quilt.  Add this stone border using the same process as above.

Now, you are ready to add your block border.  Start by laying out as follows.  Place a corner block onto the top and bottom of each of your side rows.  With right sides together stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge and then press towards the corner blocks.

Now it is the same border adding process except you will want to pin these borders rathern than alignign as you go.   Start by adding the top and bottom borders.  Then add the side borders, taking care to match and pin your seams at the corner intersections.

Lastly, using your remaining 4 grey strips, add the final border using the same process, trimming the excess and pressing towards the border.  And your top is finished!!

STEP 5 – FINISHING

To finish you quilt go create your quilt sandwich and baste it using either spray or pin basting.  Then quilt your quilt sandwich.  I choose to do some custom quilting.  You will want to do a rather dense quilting stitch around the trapunto to really make it pop!!  Lastly use the 5 remaining strips and the leftover repeat strip to create your binding strip and then bind your quilt.    If you are new to quilting and need some pointers on how to finish your quilt you can see my video tutorials going over basting, quilting, and binding in detail.  


One adorable Bunny Blocks Baby Quilt measuring 55″ x 55″ with cute puffy blocks that any little one will enjoy playing with for hours!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Studio Tour: Happy Quilting

Today we are touring the studio of  Moda Bake Shop Chef Melissa Corry of the blog Happy Quilting.

{Have you joined our Show Off Your Stash Link Party yet? Come see other reader sewing spaces.}

Here we go! Melissa has a lovely and well-organized space to sew. She calls it her happy place and it is easy to see why.

She has a spot for everything, and she keeps it all organized. Her fabric is stacked and stored by color. Melissa tells us that her full-size ironing board is indispensable. 

Even her scraps are stored in an organized fashion:


I think the theme of this studio is, “A place for everything, and everything in its place!” Thanks for letting us into your space, Melissa! You can see more of her studio {here}.

Color-Coding My Scraps,

Kids’ Craft Containers



Hello everyone 🙂 It’s me, Melissa from Happy Quilting.   I am so excited to be here with a fun Summer Kids’ Camp Tutorial!!  My kids love all things crafty.  However, I don’t always love the mess.  The crayon and marker boxes don’t last long and craft supplies rarely get put away  as they are always “Just about to play with that.”  So this year, we made up some craft containers that are cute enough to be left out and make cleaning up easy!

Oh, and one last note before we start, These cute containers also make excellent teacher gifts!! I love when the kids can actually make their teacher’s gifts!  (The apple one above was for my son’s teacher, she loved it! 🙂

So let’s get started.  And if you are like me, you will have most of this already at home!!  Yippee Skippee 🙂

You will need:

A container – Metal, glass, plastic, as long as it has smooth sides it will work.  (Check out your local $1 store, they always have great stuff like this for a buck 🙂

Mod Podge – This stuff is the duck tape of the craft world

A foam brush

Ribbon for decorating

And finally, your Moda Scrap Pile!!!  Don’t you just love projects that use up scraps 🙂

Basically, you will be helping your children make applique designs to attach to their container.   But you don’t have to bother with fusible webbing or anything like that.

The easiest way to create your applique is to just fussy cut some of your scraps.  My daughter loves butterflies so she used my pinking shears to fussy cut around these butterflies.

Another option for those with some artistic talent is for you or you child to draw an applique design on a piece of paper.  Have your child cut out the design and then use that design template to trace the design on the wrong side of their chosen fabric scrap.  Then cut out your applique from the fabric.  (If you are a really confident artist you can skip the template and just draw your design directly on the back of the fabric scrap)

Another option, for the less artistically talented like me, is to print off a desired image from your computer.  Then you can use it as a template.  Either trace it onto the wrong side of your fabric, or if it is an easy enough design, just help your child hold it in place on the fabric scrap and cut around the template.  (You can also pin it in place to make it a little easier 🙂

(Oh, and one final option for cutting your applique, which I didn’t picture, if you have any applique cutting machine, a Slice, Go Cutter, Sizzix, ect. it really speeds up the process 🙂

So, once you have all of your applique cut you are ready to adhere it to the container.  My kids love this part as it is a bit messy.  Start by letting your child use the foam brush to apply a thin layer of Mod Podge onto the wrong side of their applique.

Then have them stick the applique to their container.  The Mod Podge doesn’t dry instantly so you can play with the placement a bit.  It is okay if there is excess glue sticking out, it will all dry clear.  Continue sticking on the applique as desired.

Once the applique is all in place, go ahead and brush a thin layer of Mod Podge over the entire container.   Including over the applique.  This will seal everything.  Mom’s you might want to help out a bit here to make sure you get a nice even layer trying to keep your brush strokes long and even.  It dries clear but if there are big blobs somewhere it will show up 🙂  Now go ahead and set it aside to dry.

Once it is dry, have your child choose some ribbon to decorate their container with.  Help them add cute bows or knots to their creation.

Now just fill it up with their crayons, markers, scissors, scrap papers, ect.  The sky is the limit 🙂  Enjoy your  adorable Kids Craft Container that looks totally cute, makes your child happy because they made it, and makes mom happy because they (hopefully) clean up with it!

Super cute Craft Containers perfect for keeping your kids craft messes to a minimum.   Tall jars are great for pencils or markers!

And initials on the container help to personalize the container to your child 🙂

And yes, They also make adorable Teacher Gifts!!  This was for my daughter’s 1st grade Teacher.  It has a school house, scissors, and crayons on the sides and back.  She loved it and my daughter loved making it for her 🙂

I hope you and your children have fun making your own Kids Craft Containers!!  I would love to see your creations.  Just add them to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr page 🙂

Here’s wishing you a marvelous summer holiday with the ones you love!!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

 

Take It All Tote



Hi everyone!!  It’s Melissa from Happy Quilting and I am so excited to get to share another fun-filled tutorial with all of you MBS Fans 🙂  Some of you may know that I have a large family (7 of us).  Every time we go swimming, to the beach, on a picnic, or whatever . . .  I end up taking so many tote bags to carry all of our stuff.  With summer coming up and lots of outings planned, I decided it was time to make my own custom tote bag that will “Take It All” (and not to mention look pretty awesome!!!).  What fun to get to share it all with you!!!

Leah from Burgundy Buttons with her mad skills has made up an adorable “Take It All Tote” Kit so you can have yours all done in time for some summer outings!!  Hurry, supplies are limited 🙂

If you do whip up your own Take It All Tote for your family I would love it if you added it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr Group or emailed me a picture at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I so love to see your work!!!!   And, if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to send me an email.  I would be happy to help in any way I can 🙂

I Used Salt Air by Cosmo Cricket for my tote because I just loved the beach themed fabrics and they fit perfect for all our summer outings!!!  You will need:

1 Salt Air Jelly Roll –  You will use 22 strips
1 Yard for the handles, binding, and applique – I used 37027 12
3/4 Yard for the lining – I used 37023 12
1/3 Yard for the pockets – I used 37025 14

Additionally – You will need some Non-Fabric Supplies.  They include :

2 Yards of Interfacing – I used 809 Decor Bond (It is iron-able and a good weight)
1 Key Ring Hook
1 12″ Zipper

STEP 1 – CUTTING

So . . . Let’s get started with cutting up our yardage so it is ready when we need it 🙂  First well cut the 1 yard piece.  Begin by cutting the selvage from your yardage.  Then cut (2) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips for the binding, (4) 6″ x WOF strips for the handles, and set the remaining piece aside to be used for the applique.

Onto the 1/3 yard piece.  From this piece cut (1) 12″ x 18″ rectangle that is cut on the fold.  So you will be cutting 9″ up from the folded line.  Then cut (2) 11″ x 12″ rectangles.  This will leave you with the selvage that you can scrap.

And lastly, take your 2/3 yard piece and cut it into a 26″ x WOF fabric piece.  This should just be squaring it up and cutting an inch off the back.  Go ahead and cut off the selvage at 21″ when your fabric is folded.

And that is all the cutting.  Set these cut pieces aside for later.

STEP 2 – PIECING THE CHEVRON OUTER BAG

To start . . . Grab 5 strips from your jelly roll.  Strip piece the entire strips together into a set of 5 but staggering the strips by appx. 2″ to form upward steps.  Clip your threads and press.

Lay your strip set out onto your mat with the bottom strip aligned with a horizontal strip on your mat.  Place  a long  6″ wide ruler so that the 45 degree mark is aligned with the bottom of your first strip and the edge of the ruler is as close to the edge of your “steps without including selvage.  Cut along either side of the ruler.

Now, go back and align the 45 degree mark again with the bottom of the piece you just cut.  Align the 3″ line of your ruler with the cut line of the fabric.  Sub-cut your pieced unit into 2 units.

Now line up your 45 degree mark with the bottom of your pieced strips and the 3″ line of your ruler with the cut edge of your fabric.  Cut.  Continue to cut this way across the striped piece of fabric until you have sub-cut 9 total pieces.   There will be a little scrap at the end.

Now, grab an additional 5 jelly roll strips and repeat this process to make a total of 18 sets of 5 in 2 different print patterns.

And now we will repeat the process but make downward steps instead of upward steps.  So grab 5 additional jelly roll strips and strip piece the entire strips together into a set of 5 but this time staggering the strips by appx. 2″ to form downward steps.  Clip your threads and press.

Once again, lay your strip set out onto your mat with the bottom strip aligned with a horizontal strip on your mat.  Place  a long  6″ wide ruler so that the opposite 45 degree mark is aligned with the bottom of your first strip and the edge of the ruler is as close to the edge of your “steps without including selvage.  Cut along either side of the ruler.

And again, go ahead and using your 45 degree mark aligned with the bottom of your pieced strips and the 3″ line of your ruler with the cut edge of your fabric, Sub-cut your first piece and then continue to cut 3″ pieces across the striped piece of fabric until you have sub-cut 9 total pieces.   Put the scrap in your scrap bin.

Repeat the downward step process with an additional 5 jelly roll strips.  You will now have 18 sets of 5 of Upward angled pieces and 18 sets of 5 of downward angle pieces.  Perfect for making 9 Chevron rows.

So, Lets get to making the rows.  Taking 2 upward angle rows (one from each set) make one long row.  You can mix and match the patterns as much as you like to get some variance.  Lay the second piece onto the first piece with right sides together and the pieces at a 90 degree angle.  The corners will overlap 1/4″.  Sew a 1/4 seam along the edge.  Press.  Repeat to make 9 Upward Angled long rows and 9 Downward Angled Long Rows.

Now that you have your long rows you can make your chevron points.  Take 1 Upward angle row and place it on top of a Downward angle row with right sides together.  To get really nice points take care to nest your seams and pin at each seam intersection. Go ahead and stretch a little or ease fabric in to get your points lined nice and perfect.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge removing pins as you go.  (Where they are angled they will really want to throw your 1/4″ off.) Press your seam and admire your beautiful chevron points!!   Repeat to make 9 sets total.

Stitch your 9 sets together.  Lay out the rows as follows making all the points on on side and the arrow tails on the other.  Stitch the rows together the same way you stitched the sets together taking care to line up and pin each seam.  When all 9 rows are sewn together it should look like this.

Now fold the entire pieced work in half and lay it on your cutting mat aligning the folded edge with the 0 horizontal line of your mat.  Cut along each edge so that you have a 26″ wide piece remaining.  Discard cut pieces.

Now grab your interfacing and cut a piece the same size (26″ x 45″) as your pieced fabric.  Adhere the interfacing to the wrong side of your pieced fabric.

Optional – If you would like, you can do a little free motion stitching on the outside of your bag if you like.  It adds a fun little detail and helps to give the piecing a bit more strength 🙂  I did a fun free motion straight line.  I liked how the free motion allowed it to look a bit wavy, matching the theme of the bag 🙂

STEP 3 – ADDING THE FRONT POCKET

Now you are ready to add some of the detail to the outside of the bag.  First lets add the front pocket.  So grab your folded 12″ x 18″ rectangle and your remaining applique yardage.  Applique your Family Name . .  or whatever you would like for that matter, on to the top half of the pocket taking care to leave at least 1/4″ from each edge and staying above the folded line.  If you have never appliqued or need help, you can see my video tutorials on Applique here that will walk you through the process step by step.

Now, go ahead and grab your 2 1/2″ x wof strips and turn the 2 strips into a continuous folded binding strip. (Moda has a great tutorial here on how to do that if you are not sure 🙂  Cut a 12″ piece of binding.  Fold your pocket back in half.  Machine bind the top of the pocket with the 12″ strip.  I went back and added a decorative straight stitch along the top of the binding as well so it would match the handles.

Now, to align the pocket onto the bag.  Place the pocket 10″ up from the folded line of the bag and 7″ in on either side.  Stab 2 pins in on either  to mark the place.

Now unfold the chevron piece and pin the bag in place through 1 layer, we don’t want to be sewing any bags shut 🙂  Stitch along the edge of the pocket starting at the top left hand corner and going around the pocket to the top right hand corner. Remember to back-tack at the start and finish.   Do not stitch across the top.   And don’t worry about those raw edges hanging out, we will cover those with the handles 🙂

STEP 4 – ADDING HANDLES

So, let’s get making the handles.  These are made double thickness so as to give them lots of strength.  So. Start by taking your 4 6″ strips and sewing them into 1 long strip.  You don’t need to sew these on an angle like you do your binding strip, just 1/4″ seams along the edges is fine 🙂  Then go ahead and press the entire strip in half.  Open the pressed strip up.  You will have a crease down the center.  Now Fold the top half of the strip over and press down to the crease across the entire strip.  Then similarly fold the bottom half over and press up to the crease across the entire strip.

Lastly, go ahead and fold the entire strip in half and press.  Now your super strong handles are ready to be attached!!!

Lay your pieced chevrons out on a flat surface.  Start with the edge of your handle at the center of the pieced chevrons and the open side facing inwards.  Place the handles about 6 3/4″ in from the edge so that the edge of the  handle will overlap the raw edge of the pocket.  Go ahead and play with the size of the handles that you would like.  Trim any excess handle at the center leaving a 1/2″ overlap.  Set the excess aside to use a little later.

Now sew the 2 ends of the handles together by opening the center seam and placing right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the raw edge.  Fold the handle once again and press.

Now, go ahead and pin your continuous handle in place where you had lined it up before.  You are now ready to stitch your handles down. On the first handle start stitching  1/2″ in from the edge of the top of the bag.  Sew in 1/8″ from the edge of the opened side of the handle.  (Using a walking foot really helps from keeping this from wanting to shift)  Stitch the 1/8″ line down the entire handle ending 1/2″ from the bottom of the bag and back-tacking.  Now stitch on the other side of the handle (unopened end) in the same fashion leaving the 1/2″ at the top and bottom.  Then repeat with the handle on the other side.

Now just to finish up those handles.  Start by folding the pieced chevrons under so that they are out of the way.  Place the needle right next to where you stopped sewing before on the open side of the handle.  Stitch a few stitches and then back-tack, being careful to only sew the handle and not the pieced chevrons.  Continue stitching an 1/8″ seam along the edge of the handle until you get back to the pieced chevrons.  Once again, fold the pieced chevrons under and out of the way and stitch right up to the previous stitches.  Back tack.  Now you can do the same on the folded side of the handle.  Done, now just repeat both steps on the other side of the bag 🙂

STEP 5 – MAKING THE BASE AKA GUSSETS

And now with your handles all added, you are ready to add a base to your bag.  We do this by adding gussets, at least I think that is what they are called. Lay your pieced chevrons with right sides together aligning the top and bottom and the sides.  Pin along the sides of the pieced chevrons.   Cut a 4″ square out of the bottom of each side.  The easiest way is to just lay your square ruler on the corner, mark the 4″, and then cut it out with your scissors.  Now go ahead and stitch a 3/8″ seam along the 2 pinned sides back-tacking at the beginning and end of the seams.

Now for the gusset.  This is a lot easier then it sounds.  Open the corner and then pinch down so that you line up the seam you just made with the fold at the bottom of the bag.  It will make a nice straight line like this.  Pin along the  raw edges.  Now just stitch a 3/8″ seam along the raw edge.  Repeat for the opposite corner.

Now turn it right side out, push the corners out with your hands,  and you have the outer part of your bag all done!!!  Yippee Skippee!!!

STEP 6 – MAKING THE LINING

Onto the lining.  The lining needs to be just a big longer than the 42″ we cut earlier.  So grab 2 more jelly roll strips and from the first one cut (2) 2 1/2″ x 21″ strips and from the second one cut  (4) 2 1/2″ x 3″ strips.  Piece the 3″ squares onto either side of the long strips to make 2 strips as follows.

Attach the long strips onto each side of the top of the lining with a 1/4″ seam.  Then go ahead and cut a piece of interfacing the same size as the lining and adhere it to the wrong side of the lining.  (Somehow, I had a major forgetful moment and totally forgot to add the lining to my interfacing,  Le Sigh).

Now, go ahead and grab your zipper and your 2 remaining 11″ x 12″ rectangles to make a hidden zipper pocket in your lining.

If you have made a hidden zipper pocket before go ahead and add it into your lining placing it 2″ down from your added jelly roll strip and centering it from side to side.  If you have never made a hidden zipper pocket you can see my  tutorial for Adding a Hidden Zipper Pocket here 🙂

Now with your zipper pocket added you are ready to add the gussets into your lining.  Do this the same way you did your outer tote.  Fold the lining with right sides together and pin along the sides of the lining.  Cut a 4″ square out of the bottom corners and then stitch along each of the sides.

Once again, Open, Pinch, Match your Seams, and Stitch a 3/8″ seam along the both corners. Open it up and your lining is done!!!

STEP 7 – FINISHING THE TOTE

This is where it gets really fun because it actually looks like a tote bag!!!  Go ahead and place your lining inside your outer tote bag piece.  Align the tops of each piece and pin along the edge.  It is easiest to align the side seams first and then the centers.  Then work out.  (If your interfacing does not want to align with the edge of your tote you can trim as needed 🙂

No go ahead and pin your handles back out of the way so you won’t stitch over them.  With the handles out of the way stitch a large basting stitch along the raw edge about 1/8″ in.  This just holds everything together nice to bind it 🙂

Now, the easiest, and for me, most important part.  I hate losing my keys in the bottom of my bag.  So . . .  My bag totally needs a key holder.  So grab that little bit of handle excess you set aside.  Stitch 1/8″ seam along either side to close the piece up.  Now wrap it through the metal loop of the key holder and then stitch the end close.  Don’t worry about that raw edge, it will get put in the binding 🙂

Onto the binding.  You are going to bind the bag the same way you would machine bind a quilt.  So start by attaching the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the bag with a 1/4″ seam. Remember to leave about 6″ unattached at the start.   Add your key holder in wherever you would like it (I did it near the side seam) by inserting it under the binding and then stitching over it as well.  And watch out for those handles wanting to creep in your way.  Be sure not to sew over them 😉

Continue stitching until you get to the end.  Overlap your binding pieces 2 1/2″, cut, and then sew at a 90 degree angle  and then clip and finish sewing down the inside of the binding.  (Once again, if this is new to you, you can see this tutorial).

Now, simply fold your binding over and stitch along the edge to secure it down.  (Aka stitch in the ditch).  You want to try and align your binding with the edge of the pinned down handle so that when it is open it matches up.  Stitch the binding down all the way around the top of the bag. (if you like, you can add a second decorative stitch along the top of the binding so that it matches your handles and pocket 🙂

Then just unpin your handles and you are done!!!  Yippee Skippee!!!

Now you have one fabulous Summery Tote measuring 25″ wide, 17″ high, and 8″ deep!!!  Now that is a bag that you can load up with everything and then some!!!

Seriously, That is a lot of stuff!!

And yes, your bag will be the most fantastic bag on the beach.  So you might just want to stay all day!!!

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

On The Go Baby Boy Quilt



Hello fellow quilting enthusiasts.  It’s me, Melissa from Happy Quilting!!  I am so excited to share another fun filled tutorial with you today.  When I saw Jenn Ski’s Ten Little Things line I knew I had to make something with it, I mean it isn’t every day a fabulous line comes along shouting All Boy!!!  So I designed a pattern to go right along with that All Boy, perfect for a special little guy 🙂  This particular one is for my little nephew slated to arrive any day now 🙂

And if you have a special little guy to make an On The Go quilt for then pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a fabulous On The Go Quilt Kit just for you 🙂  And of course, it is at great Burgundy Buttons prices 🙂

And as always, should you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to write me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I would love to help out in any way I can.  And, when you are finished your own version of On The Go please add a picture of it to my Happy Quilting Flickr group.  I absolutely love seeing your work!!!

All Right . . . Let’s get going 🙂   To make your own On The Go baby boy quilt you will need 🙂

2 Ten Little Things Charm Packs
1 1/4 Yards of Bella Solid White for Quilt Top Background
1/2 Yard for Applique and Binding (I used 30505 40 – Navy Stars)
1/2 Yard for Borders and Pieced Back (I used  30504 17 – Lime Dots)
1 1/2 yard for backing (I used 30501 19 – Grey Trucks)

STEP 1 : CUTTING


For pieces for the small arrow select 18 prints from your first charm pack and then gather the same 18 prints from your second charm pack.    From the first set of prints cut a 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ square out of each charm.  From the second set of prints cut a 3 1/2″ x 3″ piece out of each charm.  Set squares aside.

For pieces for the large arrow select another18 prints from your first charm pack and then gather the same 18 prints from your second charm pack.  From the first set of prints cut a 4″ x 4″ square out of each charm.  From the second set of prints cut a 3 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ piece out of each charm.

You should now have 18 squares of each of the 4 designated sizes. (2 piles for the small arrow, and 2 piles for the large arrow)  Great 🙂  Let’s keep cutting!

From your white yardage you will need to cut the following:

   For the Small Arrows                                                     For the Large Arrows  
     (36) 1 1/2″ x 3″ rectangles                                             (36) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles
     (18) 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares                                           (18) 4″ x 4″ squares

   For the Small Arrow Sashing                                         For the Quilt Top Sashing               
     (18) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles                                       (12) 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles
     (18) 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles                                       (4) 1 1/2″ x Width of Fabric strips
 

From your remaining yardage you will need to cut the following:

From your Pieced Back and Border Yardage cut
        (4) 3″ x Width of Fabric strips
        (1) 6″ x Width of Fabric strip
From your Applique and Binding Yardage cut
        (5) 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric strips
        (1) 6″ x 5 1/2″ rectangle  (if they cut a little crooked you can just do 6 x 6 🙂
         Set the rest aside for your applique

STEP 2 : MAKING THE ARROWS

***  Note… Sew all of step 2 assembly line fashion.  For each part of the direction repeat the process 18 times and when stitching make sure to chain stitch, this will save a lot of time 🙂

 We will start with the Large arrows.  So grab your pile of 4″ x 4″ cut charms and your 4″ x 4″ white squares.   Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of the charm.  Place the charm with right sides together on a white square.  Pin along either side of the drawn line.  Sew a 1/4″ seam on either side the drawn line by chain stitching all 18 left hand seams, clip your threads, and then go back and chain stitch all 18 right hand seams and clip your threads.

Cut down the drawn line. (you can use your rotary cutter or scissors, whatever is easier for you)  Press your seam towards the charm fabric.

Now you should have 36 HST’s and they are ready to be trimmed up.  Using the diagonal on your ruler trim the HST’s down to 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″.  If you are unsure how to trim your HST’s please see the tutorial I have here for help 🙂

Now we are ready to make the arrow points.  Take your 2 HST’s of the same print and lay them out as follows.  Place the left HST onto the right HST with right sides together.  Pin if you desire.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Clip your threads  and press seams open to reduce bulk.

And for the bottom of the arrows, grab your 18 print 3 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ print rectangles and your 36 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ white rectangles.  Lay them out as follows.  Lay a white rectangle onto the left hand side of a cut charm with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat the same process on the right hand side. Clip threads and press towards charm print.

And now you can put your arrows together.  Match your arrow point prints to your arrow square prints and layout as follow.  Lay the square print piece onto the point print piece and pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.   Press the seam open to avoid bulk.  You should now have 18 Large Arrows 🙂  Set them aside.

Onto the small arrows,  These are made in the same fashion with just a minor change.  So grab your small arrow pieces ((18) 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ cut charms, (18) 3 1/2″ x 3″ charms, and (36) 1 1/2″ x 3″ white rectangles)  and use the same steps you used to create the small arrows.  The only difference being that when you trim your HST’s trim them to 3″ x 3″.  You should now have 18 small arrows.

Now you can add the small arrow sashing.  Retrieve your small arrow sashing pieces. ((18) 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles and (18) 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles. )  Choose any side of the block to start on.  Lay a small sashing piece onto the side with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Press the seam towards the white.  Now lay the long sashing piece along the bottom of the block with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.   Press the seam towards the white.

I tried to make sure that I was creating 4 – 5 blocks pointing each way.  This gives you a lot more flexibility when laying out your quilt to make it look more random 🙂  And now your arrows are done.

STEP 3 : BUILDING THE BLOCKS

With your arrows, you can low build your blocks.  For each block you will need 2 small sashed arrows, and 2 large arrows.  Lay them out taking care that the sashing pieces of the small arrows are on the inside of the block and opposite corners, as shown.  Point your large arrows any direction you choose.  You will be making 9 blocks this way so you can lay them all out and piece your blocks assembly line or do them individually 🙂

Lay the left hand block onto the right hand block on both the top and bottom rows.  Pin along the edge.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Clip threads and press towards the small arrow sashing.  (This will allow you to nest your seams in the next step.)

         
Now lay your top row onto your bottom row with right sides together.  Pin taking care to nest your center seam.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along pinned edge.  Press seam open to avoid bulk.  You now should have 9  12 1/2″ unfinished blocks.

STEP 4 : PIECING THE TOP

Take your 9 blocks and quilt top sashing pieces (your remaining white cut strips) and lay them out as follows. Play around with the placement of your arrow blocks until you get a look that is pleasing to you.  I find it best to take a picture of my layout that I can refer back to  🙂

For each block, place the small row sashing pieces onto the arrow blocks with right sides together (see row 1).  Pin if you desire.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edges (see row 2).  Press the seams towards the sashing (see row3).

Now to sew the rows together.  For each row,  place block 1 onto block 2 with right sides together.  Pin along edge.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along pinned edge.  (see row 1).  Place block 3 onto your now sewn together block 1 and 2 , pin along the edge, and sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge (see row 2).  Press your seams towards the sashing (see row 3).

And now to add the sashing to the rows.  Same process as before, just on a longer scale.  Place the sashings along the edge of the row with right sides together (see row 1).  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along edge and then trim excess sashing. (see row 2).  Press towards the sashing (see row 3).

And now finally, just sewing the rows together.  Once again, same as making the rows just on a longer scale.  Place row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Pin along the edge taking care to match up your seams.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge.  Press towards the sashing.  Then repeat the process laying your row 3 onto your now sewn together row 1 and 2, pin, sew, and press.

And your top is just about complete.  Doesn’t it just look so fun 🙂  Now you are ready to add the borders so go ahead and grab those 4 3″ border strips you cut.

Lay the strips along the top and bottom of the quilt top with right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge, (I don’t use pins, I just align as I go) and the trim the excess border fabric.

Repeat the same process for the 2 sides.  And now your quilt top is done 🙂  Yippee Skippee!!!

STEP 5 : MAKING THE PIECED BACKING

Grab your 1 1/2 yard backing fabric and trim it down to 50″ x Width of fabric.  Then go ahead and subcut it into 2 pieces by cutting off a 12″ strip from the selvage side.  Lay the 2 pieces along with your 6″ x 6″ backing square and your 6″ x WOF pieced backing strip out as follows.

Sew the 6″ square to the bottom of the 6″ x WOF strip to create your applique space.  There is a template in the Printer Friendly Version for the applique designs.  Cut, adhere, and secure stitch your applique.

*Note – If you have not done applique before I would recommend 1 of 2 methods.  The first is using Heat N Bond and the process can be found in Step 5 of this other Bake Shop tutorial I did. The second is using starch and glue and the best tutorial I have seen is Natalia’s (fellow Bake Shop chef) and can be found on her blog here 🙂

Once your applique is done, go ahead and sew the 3 rows of your pieced quilt back together.  You do this the same way you sewed your quilt top rows together only this time it is vertical instead of horizontal 🙂

STEP 6 : FINISHING IT UP

Now you are ready to finish it all up.  Make your quilt sandwich, I like to tape my backing to a hard floor, I find it gives me the best results.  Baste, I use pins but you can also use spray if you desire.  Then go ahead and free motion quilt your sandwich.  I did a straight edge stipple to give it a boy look. (or you can always send it out to a long arm quilter 🙂  And lastly grab those 5 binding strips you cut to make up your binding strip and then bind your quilt. (there is a great tutorial here on how to do that )

And you are done!!!!  And you have One Super Adorable ON THE GO Baby Boy Blanket measuring 46″ x 46″ perfect for a special little guy!!!!

With a totally all boy pieced back that you know they are just going to want to snuggle up with.

Melissa Corry