Zig Zag Skirt

Hi! My name is Melissa Mortenson I’m so excited to share with you today this tutorial for a zig zag skirt! It’s made with one of my favorite new fabric lines from Moda, Sherbet Pips!!  Please stop by my blog www.polkadotchair.com and say “hi” and check out the sewing patterns I offer in my shop fourteenmay!  

For this skirt you will need:
1 Bella Solids Charm pack
2 Sherbet Pips Charm pack- I recommend getting 2 charm packs. You only need 18 5″ squares but you need them ALL to be in the same color family, so depending on the charm pack you pick you may not have enough of the right color in one charm pack. The good news is that you can make more skirt with the other colors too!!
1 Jelly Roll- you will need 7 strips from your Jelly Roll
1/2″ wide elastic

I find it easiest to sort my fabrics into “front” and “back” piles. That way your skirt does not have all the same prints on the front or the back. Sorting ensures the skirt is evenly distributed.
You need 18 squares all of similar color, sorted into 2 piles of 9 squares. As we work, we will keep the skirt front and back separate (this will help you in construction).
Take 18 white charm pack squares and draw a diagonal line down the center.  
Place 18 white squares on top of 18 pink squares, right sides together.  Pin.
Stitch 1/4″ down each side from the centerline.
The black lines represent stitching lines.
Cut the square in half along the pencil line you drew. Press open.
You will have 2 half square triangles (HST).  
Measure to make sure each HST is perfectly square, adjust as necessary.
Arrange your blocks like the diagram above.
Sew the 1st row together, press all seams to one side
Sew the 2nd row together, press seams to opposite side.
Sew row 1 and row 2 together.
Set aside and repeat for other side of the skirt.
Each side of the skirt will have 9 blocks by 2 rows.
Place 1 jelly roll strip over skirt right sides together. Stitch to bottom of skirt. Trim off excess.
Stitch one more jelly roll strip to bottom of skirt and 1 jelly roll strip to top of skirt.
Repeat for skirt back.
You should have 2 pieces that look like the above photo.
Stitch skirt front and skirt back together. Press these seams open so that you know where your side seams are.
Run 2 rows of gathering stitches across the top of the skirt, stopping and starting at side seams.
To make waistband, take one jelly roll strip and fold it in half. Stitch closed, leaving a 3/4″ hole to feed your elastic through.
Fold the waistband piece in half, WRONG sides together.
Pin waistband to skirt, right sides together, matching side seams and waistband center.  Pull up on gathering stitches until skirt and waistband are the same size.
Stitch waistband in place.
Cut your elastic to the correct size (measure waist and cut elastic that length).
Using the hole you left in the waistband, feed elastic through.  Hand stitch opening closed.
To finish skirt…
On bottom of skirt, press under 1/4″.
Fold over so that folded edge matches seam. Pin VERY well in place.
On right side of skirt, top stitch band in place.
Press well.
Clip strings and enjoy!

2 skirts (of different colors) from 2 charm packs.

Melissa Mortenson


His & Hers Personalized Baby Quilts

I’m a mom of twins, a boy and a girl.  A friend of mine just had twins herself and I decided it might be fun to find a way to use the same fabric line to make a boy and a girl version quilt.  I got the idea for this quilt from a pillow I made for Moda Bake Shop last year. You can see it here, it would be fun to make one to match the quilt using your scraps.

Stop by my blog and say hi!! Or visit my shop fourteen may for more sewing patterns!

1 Layer Cake: (you can use 1 layer cake for both quilts) I used Tweet Tweet by Keiki
1 yard white fabric per quilt for the center
1 yard fabric per quilt for backing
1/2 yard fabric per quilt for binding
Heat N Bond Lite

Buttons, colored thread to embellish applique
Smiley Monster Font (can be downloaded free)

First you will want to sort and pick your fabrics. Take your layer cake and divide it into a “boy” and a “girl” pile.
Next you want to decide which layer cake squares you want to use for the block border.  You will also want to set aside the layer cake squares you want to use for the applique names & shapes. If you want to have the tree applique (like on the boy quilt) you may need more than one layer cake piece to get enough  trees to cut out.
Cut the layer cake squares you want to use for the border in half so that they are 5″ x 10″. You will need a total of (14)  5″ x 10″ blocks for each quilt. I used some fabrics twice, but you will have plenty of layer cake pieces if you do not want to repeat any fabrics.
Sew (4) 5″ x 10″ pieces together along the short sides. Press & set aside. Repeat.
Sew (3) 5″ x 10″ pieces together along the short sides. Press & set aside. Repeat.
Cut your white fabric to 29 3/4″ x 29 1/2″

Sew one of the 3 block strips to the 29 1/2″ side of the white fabric. Repeat by sewing the other 3 block strip to the other side.


Sew the 4 block strips to the other 2 sides of the white block. Press. Trim off excess if necessary.

Quilt as desired. I quilted mine with a walking foot in straight lines approximately 2″ apart.

Using a word processing program and the font Smiley Monster, print your name approx 4″ tall. You may need to make it slightly smaller if you are printing a large name.

Trace the letters backwards onto the slick side of a piece of Heat n Bond Lite. Cut out roughly and iron onto wrong side of fabric. Cut out. You can see photos of my applique method here.

Apply to lower right hand corner of the quilted top approx. 2″ from the bottom border.

I used the bird in the fabric as a guide for my bird appliqué.  I just scanned the fabric and printed the bird  enlarged so that it is about 4″ tall.  I then pieced it using scraps from my layer cake.
Stitch around the letters and pieces of the bird.  Using brown thread in your machine stitch in legs for the bird.  Sew a button for its eye.
For the boys quilt, I cut out 5 trees from the layer cake pieces. I applied Heat n Bond Lite to the back and ironed them onto the quilt top. I then stitched around the edges, using brown thread for the tree trunks.
After you have finished the applique, bind the quilt as desired.
Finished size is approx: 30″x30″

Two or three personalized baby quilts from one layer cake.

Spring Flowers Easter Wreath

Spring has finally sprung in my end of the world and I can not tell you how excited I am! It seems like it’s been a very loooong winter.  I can’t wait until all of the beautiful flowers are in bloom. 
Inspired by spring, I created this fun and easy spring flowers wreath. I used the gorgeous Hunky Dory  line of fabric and fell in LOVE with all of the wonderful colors and patterns. I added a little bunny made out of fun foam to make it perfect for Easter! 
Stop by my blog, the Polkdadot Chair and say hi! Or visit my pattern shop fourteenmay and check out some of my other sewing patterns! 

All fabric is Chez Moi, Hunky Dory
1 Layer Cake
1 Charm Pack
1 Jelly Roll
*note you will not use all of your fabric from each, you’ll have plenty of fabric left over for other projects*
Styrofoam Wreath
Wonder Under
Pearl Head Pins, white and colored
White covered floral wire
5 yards Burlap Upholstery Tape (buy it next to the upholstery tacks at your fabric store)
White Glitter Fun Foam (yep,  You read that right!)

Other pins, shapes, colored buttons or pins… it’s up to you!

To begin you want to wrap your styrofoam wreath completely with the burlap tape.  I used small pins every few inches to make sure it stayed flat. It won’t be perfectly flat .. just do your best. 

After you have wrapped your wreath set it aside.

Pick out some charm pack and layer cake pieces that you like.  I used 6 layer cake pieces and 8 charm pack pieces for my flowers. I put them in stack of 2 based on color (i.e. 2 blue ones, 2 yellow ones)

Cover the back half of the pieces (you will cut your wonder under to 10×10 or 5×5) of them entirely with wonder under.  Peel off the backing and press the other fabric piece to it wrong sides together. This will give you double sided fabric.

Using a “fade away” fabric pen, Start tracing your flowers.  I have uploaded some templates for you to use here. (please note these templates are not for commercial use).  Fit the large flowers on first then start tracing your smaller flowers.  Cut them out.   You will want to trace flowers on all 3 of your layer cake pieces and all 4 of your charm pieces.  I also used 2 butterflies on my wreath, if you want them make sure to trace them on your fabric and cut them out. 
I had 3 large flowers on my wreath. The large flower pieces will not hold their shape by themselves. You will need to add wire to the back of them to help form them.  Take a piece of your white floral wire and center it on the back of one of your flower petals.  Using a zig zag stitch, stitch down the center of the petal over the top of the wire.  
When you are done it should look like this on the back. Do this with all the flowers that are large (over 6″).
Generously starch and press all remaining smaller flower pieces. The ones that you can, press the petals in half (with your iron). This will help to make them stand out more (as will the starch) 
Take some of your flowers and using a curling iron, curl the edges up (make sure you starch them first).
Now just start layering your flower pieces. Just layer them as you like, try to get a variety of shapes and colors on each flower. On the wired pieces bend the petals into a pleasing shape. 
Lay the flower on top of your wreath where you like and place a button in the center of the flower.  Using pearl head pins, attach the flower to the wreath through the button holes. 
Just fill up your wreath with flowers. I recommend placing the largest flowers on first, then filling the empty spaces with the smaller ones. 
Fold your butterfly in half and press. Open it up and attach to the wreath also.  I used colored pearl head pins down the middle and 2 white pins for it’s antennae. 
To make the large posy flower on the wreath you just need 2 jelly roll strips. Jelly roll strips make PERFECT flowers since they are long, skinny and have pinked edges. If you want you could make the whole wreath out of these strips if you don’t want to cut out flowers.
To make them, take one jelly roll strip and with a needle and thread, run a basting stitch ALL the way down the long side. Gather the fabric up as you go and it will naturally form into a circle. To make the smaller posy in the middle, take a jelly roll strip, cut it in half then fold it in half lengthwise.  Then run a gathering stitch (by hand) down the folded side of the strip.  Place over the larger posy and sew them together. 

To make the bow, take two jelly roll strips and place right sides together. Sew around 3 sides leaving one short side open. Turn right side out and press.  
Tie into a bow and place on the wreath. Use pins to put the ribbon tails where you like and to help “poof” out the bow. 
Cut your bunny out of fun foam.  Cut 2 small scraps of fabric  for the inside of the “ears” and using spray adhesive place on top of the foam.  Slowly stitch around the fabric to attach it . (yep, you can sew through fun foam, it was pretty easy 🙂
Take another scrap of fabric and tie it around the bunny’s neck for a bow. Sew a small black button on for an eye.  Using pins attach to the center of the wreath.
Note: If you don’t like the idea of using fun foam, you can also make the bunny out of white felt, using the technique I used to make the bird here. 

At least 3 maybe 4 wreaths if using a layer cake, charm pack and jelly roll.

Snuggly Layer Cake Throw

My name is Melissa Mortenson of the Polkadot Chair blog and fourteen may patterns.  For Christmas this year I wanted to make my daughter a warm and cozy lap quilt, I wanted it to be cute but I needed to make it fast! (since I always over commit myself at Christmas time!!).
All this throw takes is one layer cake and it’s backed in plus fabric, (I recommend Moda Snuggles)  to make it super soft! Great for all of those cold winter days! It also makes a great project for a beginning quilter.

1 Layer cake, I used Hunky Dory by Chez Moi
1/2 yard fabric for binding
Cotton Batting (I use quilters dream cotton)
2 yds Snuggles for backing
thread to match backing fabric

Applique letters or machine embroidery

Sort your layer cake into piles based on the predominant color. It is very important to pick out all of your layer cake pieces before you start cutting, otherwise you won’t have enough of each color to complete the pattern.

The colors I chose were pinks, creams, yellows, blues, greens.

Save out one layer cake piece that you really like (one with a large or unique print) for your center block.

Set aside 6 each of 3 different colors for your strip blocks.
Set aside 8 blocks of one of your other colors (blue in my case)
Set aside 8 blocks of your last color (green in my example)

Take your 3 strip colors of and begin cutting the layer cake pieces into strips. Cut them to 3 1/3″ wide (leave them 10″ tall for now).

When you are done you should have
18 pink strips
18 creams strips
18 yellow strips.

With the cream in the center, begin sewing the 3 colored strips together, taking care to vary the patterns so that you do not have 2 blocks that are exactly the same.

Press your seams to one side.
Trim your entire block to 9″ x 9″
Repeat until you have 18 sewn blocks.

Take 8 blue blocks and trim them to 9×9. Do the same for your 8 green blocks, and your center feature block.
If desired applique or machine embroidered a name to the center of your center feature piece.

Begin sewing the blocks into rows using the diagram below.

Press seams to one side, alternating each row (example press the seams of all of the odd rows to the right and the seams of all the even rows to the left).

When your quilt top is assembled, cut a piece of cotton batting and your snuggles about 3″ wider on each side than your quilt top.
Using basting spray, assemble your quilt “sandwich”.

With a fabric pen/pencil (something that will wash off) draw diagonal lines on the quilt top according to the diagram above (the dashed lines are your stitching lines).

I chose to use a thread that would match the snuggles but contrast the top of the quilt. Using a walking foot,  first quilt a stitch in the ditch down the long side on each side of the center column, then once down the short side on both sides of the center row. This will stabilize your quilt to help prevent stretching as you finish quilting it.    Stitch in the ditch the remaining rows/columns of the quilt. (you are quilting around each square).

Then quilt along the diagonal lines you drew.

Bind as desired.

Finished quilt measures: 42″x57″ (after washing)

1 quilt per layer cake

Eva Fabric Scrapbook

Hi, My name is Melissa Mortenson, I love all crafts, but my two favorite by far are Scrapbooking and Sewing. In this project I was able to combine both of them. There is a huge trend right now in scrapbooking to use fabric in your book, or to make embellishments out of fabric. When I got this layer cake I thought “funny, I have this scrapbook paper!”… Then I started thinking that the layer cake looked like pages in a book, so I thought, why not make a fabric scrapbook?
A layer cake makes a perfect base for a book!
I added canvas for sturdiness and fun ribbons & embellishments. I even printed words on fabric.
I think this would be perfect for highlights from a baby’s first year, or a grandparents album (nice and soft for little hands) or use Valentine’s themed fabric and make a Love album.

Stop by my blog, The Polkadot Chair  or my pattern shop, fourteen may for more patterns,  enter a VERY cool GIVEAWAY,  ask me questions or just say hi!!!

1 Layer Cake, I used Eva by Basic Gray
4 10.5″x10.5″ squares of canvas
Cotton Batting (I used quilters dream cotton)
Heat n Bond Lite or Wonder under
Freezer Paper
Quilt Basting Spray
Fusible Printable Fabric I used, June Tailor Quick Fuse
Pinking attachment for rotary cutter
Binder rings (I used 1″ but would recommend 2″)

Grunge Board, by Tim Holtz, Buttons, Ribbons, Flowers, and other scrap booking supplies
Digital Scrapbooking elements, mine came from Ali Edwards & House of 3.

Here are a close up of all of my pages.  You will want to embellish and construct the pages to your liking, depending on your photos.
I’ll show the photos close up of the pages, then give step by step instructions for constructing each page.  Feel free to use whichever “patterns” of pages that you like best.

inside cover, with journaling. (yes I know there is a typo… I totally missed it!)
Page 1
Page 2
page 2 closeup
Page 3
Page 4
Page 5
Page 6
Page 7
Page 8
Page 8, close up
Inside back cover
back cover

To Begin:

Divide up your Layer Cake, I put mine in the following piles:
-feature fabric prints
-small fabric prints
I decided to make the “Feature” fabric prints in the Layer cake as my base pages. I have a total of 8 pages, plus the front and back covers.
To make the pages, you want to create “blocks” of fabric and “borders” with different fabrics. This will add interest  to your book.
Here is how I constructed my book:
** NOTE: I did NOT place wonderunder under all of my fabric pieces, so some of them did fray.. but that is OK with me.. if you want less of your fabric to fray, then back each piece that you cut (for borders etc…) with wonder under. This will help to reduce the fraying***
To Construct Page 6
Cut 5×10 piece of a smaller print fabric. Using quilt basting spray, adhere to the front of an uncut layer cake piece.
Using a contrasting thread (mine is green), stitch 5×10 piece in place.
To construct page 5
Trace a shape (i just traced a shape of chipboard that I had) onto wonder under or heat and bond lite.  Iron onto a layer cake square, sticky side down on wrong side of fabric.
Cut out and iron on to a layer cake piece.  Using contrast thread, stitch around the edges.
To construct Page 2
Cut a piece of fabric that is 2″x 10″
Onto the back of one side of the fabric, sew a strip of ric rac. Topstitch ric rac with contrast thread.
Cut a scrap of another fabric to 2″x10″. Sew each strip to top and bottom of uncut Layer cake piece.
To construct page 4
Trace a circle (like a lid or a soda can) onto a piece of heat n bond in a scallop pattern.  Iron onto scrap of fabric so that you will have 1″ on the other side of the scallops to use as a border.
Cut out.  Iron onto an uncut layer cake piece.
Cut another piece of fabric 1″x10″. Attach.
Top stitch both pieces with contrast thread.
To construct page 7
Most of my photos were 5×7.  So I made photo mats from them out of fabric that were 1″ larger than the photos, or 6×8, if you are using a 4×6 photo cut your photo mats (out of fabric) to 5×7.
Cut a piece of fabric to 6×8.
Place in center of layer cake piece, adhere and stitch down using contrast thread.

To construct page 8
Cut a piece of fabric to 8×8. Adhere and stitch down.
(you will adhere a 6×6 square photo here).
To construct page 1
Cut a piece of fabric to 5×8. Adhere and stitch down to fabric. (this will fit a 4×6 photo with space on the side for an embellishment).

Assemble the Pages
Before you print your photos, determine the sizes you want, and plan out how your pages will look.  Make sure you have a photo for each page.
Print your photos on Fusible Ink Jet printer fabric.  I decided to use a purchased package of printer fabric (instead of printing right on my fabric, like we will in the next step) because I wanted the photos to last, and this printer fabric is specially designed for photos.
Trim your photos leaving a 1/4″ border  of white around all the photos.
Using an iron, adhere the photos to each page.
You can stitch around the photo with white thread if you like (I didn’t).
To make the words:
Cut a piece of muslin to 8.5×11 (or you could use a piece of matching fabric, I just know that the ink shows up well on the muslin).
Cut a piece of Wonder under and adhere to the back of the muslin.
**note: the wonder under fused fabric DID work in my printer, I know it may not work in everyone’s. If the wonder under does not work, just use freezer paper on the back of the muslin (it has a bit more body).. You will just have to cut out your words, then adhere them to wonder under after you peel off the freezer paper (one extra step).
Run your fabric through your printer. Just use normal paper settings and set your print quality to best.
My images came from Ali Edwards, for Designer Digitals and House of 3… I’m sorry I can’t share them, they are copyrighted… but if you look around, there are lots of free digital scrap booking files available, or it is not expensive to purchase files. (or just print words out of your word processing program).
To Make Cover
Take one piece of your 10.5×10.5 canvas.
Cut a piece of one of the dark fabric prints to 6×8.
Cut a piece of solid fabric to 5.25×7.25
Iron 5×7 photo onto center.
Adhere to each other (use basting spray if you need to).
Stitch around edges with white thread.
Cut out words, peel off backing and iron onto cover.
Stitch around edges using contrast thread.
Repeat this process, for inside front cover, back cover and inside back cover (photos are shown)
inside back cover.
To Make Embellishments
I wanted a bit more dimension on some of my pages so I used Grunge Board. Grunge board is like chipboard except it is sewable, flexible and paintable (and washable, although I DO NOT reccomend washing this book).
To cover with fabric. Trace shape (simple ones are recommended) onto fabric using water soluble pen.
Cut out image out of fabric.
Adhere to front of heart.
Using basting spray to hold it in place, top stitch heart down onto page.
To make fabric flower:
Trace 4 circles onto a piece of fabric (I used the bottom of a soda can)
Cut out and fold in half.  Arrange so that the ends over lap and lock into each other (see photos) Use some spray starch to give the flower some “body”.
Stitch through center to hold in place.
Cut a small piece of dark fabric in a circle. Place over center of flower (fray the edges a bit to give it some dimension).
Stitch button to center of flower. (wait to stitch onto cover until last step)
To make ruffle border.
Using your pinking attachment to your rotary blade, cut 2 pieces of fabric, each 1″x 10″. Use the pinking cutter on both long edges.
Stitch together at short ends, so you have a piece that is 1″x 20″.
Run a gathering stitch straight down the center. Pull up on gathering stitches.
Place on your page. Pin well, keep flat,  and stitch right down the middle over the gathering stitches. Remove gathering stitch.
To make fabric rosette:
Cut a piece of fabric to 2″x10″. Use pinking trimmer on the edges.
Fold in half lengthwise, run a gathering stitch down long folded edge.
Pull up on gathering stitches until it forms a circle. Trim excess. Stitch closed.
Stitch button to center, stitch onto page
Adhere various embellishments to the pages. They will stick well, but not hold up to washing.
Assemble the book:
AFTER you are done with all of your embellishing, you are ready to assemble your book.
First you will assemble the inside pages.
Lay out your pages like you want them to turn as you look through your book. Put pages wrong side to wrong side.
Cut 4 pieces of white cotton batting to 10×10.
Spray back of each completed page with basting spray.
Make a “sandwich” one page on each side with batting in the middle. Make SURE all of your edges line up. Also DOUBLE check that both pages are right side up.
Using a walking foot (you do need it, I tried it without and it did not work as well). Stitch around all 4 edges.  Stitch about 3/8″ in from the sides. Pivot at corners and back stitch well.
Using your quilt ruler and rotary cutter with pinking blade attached, with firm pressure and keeping pages square, cut off 1/4″ off the edge of each side. Don’t cut through stitching.
It will look like this when you are done.
Repeat for all pages.
To Assemble Front and Back Cover.
Cut 2 pieces of cotton batting to 10.5×10.5.
Spray back of front cover and front inside cover with basting spray.
Assemble the “sandwich” with batting in the middle.
This time stitch ONLY around the 3 sides that will not have the ribbon closure.
Trim book with pinking rotary cutter the same way you did for the pages (you can’t trim after you attach the ribbon, it will cut it off ;-)).
Cut 2 pieces of ribbon to 12″ long.
Insert ribbon into center of cover, in between the layers. Pin in place
Stitch closed along entire edge.
Attach grommets, according to package directions, to all pages and front and back covers, 2″ down from top and bottom. Measure each page so that they all line up with each other.

Insert binder rings and you are done!!

1-2 books depending on how you cut your fabric. You could get 2 easily if you are careful and save your scraps.

Stripey Skinny Seasonal Table Runner & Stripey Tiny Tree Skirt

Hi there! It’s Melissa Mortenson from the Polkadot Chair, today I am going to share with you a tutorial for a Christmas Tree Skirt & Runner. I think this is my favorite project for Moda Bake Shop yet.

Stop by my blog and say hi, ask me questions or let me know what you think!

Do you have a cute little table top Christmas tree? Why not make a quick and easy tree skirt for it? Plus you will have enough fabric left in your honey bun to make this cute table runner to match!

1 Figgy Pudding Honey Bun

1 Figgy Pudding Turnover or Charm Pack

1 Moda White Jelly Roll
2 yds white fabric for backing
1/4″ yd. or 1 fat quarter,  blue fabric for binding on tree skirt
Embroidery floss
Heat n Bond Lite
Batting (I used quilters dream cotton)

Very IMPORTANT! Before you begin to sew, if you want to make both the runner and the tree skirt make sure that you pick out all of your fabrics first! Otherwise you might run out of a color that you want.

To begin, you need 11 honey bun strips. You need to set them up in a color pattern that starts in the center and mirrors out to the edges.  You want to match rows 1 & 11, 2 & 10, 3 & 9, 4 & 8, 5 & 7 and row 6 will be your center row.

You need them to match because your are going to cut them into triangles, and flip the template after each cut. (if you are confused now, don’t worry just keep reading it will make sense with the photos).

Sew all rows together with 1/4″ seam. Press all seams to one side.

You need to make a template. To do this you need 1, 12×12 piece of scrapbook paper. Cut it to 9×12, find the center of the 9″ side, measure from the center down to the opposidte corners, cut. Repeat for other side.  For photo instructions to make the triangle click here (NOTE: your triangle will be 9×12, NOT  6×9 like in the photos)

After you have made your template, lay it out on your sewn rows of fabric. Using your ruler & rotary tool, cut out the triangle, making sure that it is all the way over to the edge, you will need every centimeter of fabric, so double check it.
Cut off selvage edges.

You will get a piece that looks like this.

Next, flip the template 180 degrees.  Line up the edge of the template with the cut edge of the fabric strip. Cut out your next piece.
Flip template again and repeat, until you get 9 triangles… (note your last triangle you may be a little short, don’t worry still cut it, that will be the edge piece of your tree skirt).

Arrange your cut pieces into a circle, alternating patterns. (you will have 2 next to each other that are the same pattern, use this as the “seam” or opening of your tree skirt).

Sew pieces together with 1/4″ seam. Leave one seam open, this will be the openeing of your tree skirt.
Cut out center of the skirt, leaving 1″ of the red strip still showing. (if your tabletop tree has a wider trunk, cut a larger hole).

If you wish to hand embroider a phrase on your tree skirt do it now.  Print off your words, (the font I used is called Noodle). Then using a light box and a water soluble pen, trace the letters onto the tree skirt.
Hand embroider, using a simple backstitch.

When finished with the embroidery, layer with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I just did a stitch in the ditch.

Cut 6 pieces of ribbon about 10″ long.  Pin to opening of tree skirt. Sew in place before you bind it.

Sew on binding, making sure not to catch ribbon in binding.

Now onto the table runner. This runner is LONG. It is 14″x 105″. I wanted a long runner to fit my big table. If you want it shorter just elimante some of the blocks.

To begin:

From your honeybun, collect 5 strips each of 4 different color ways. I used the blues, greens, reds & browns.

Arrange how you like,  and sew togther with 1/4″ seam.  Press seam to one side.

Cut strip into 3,  14″ pieces, cutting off selvage edges.
Repeat with the other 3 colors.

You will have 3 blocks each of 4 different colors (for a total of 12 blocks).
Sew 2 white jelly roll strips togteher. Cut into 14″ pieces (same as you did for the honeybun pieces, remember jelly roll strips are wider, 2 1/2″ wide).
Repeat this 4 times so that you have a total of 10 white blocks each 2 strips tall x 14″ wide.
Cut 2 14″ pieces from 1 jelly roll strip.
Note: I quilt on an embroidery machine so I  don’t have much control over where the stitches go, if you are free motion quilting this, BEFORE you sew your blocks together, skip to the applique steps.  It will be easier to applique the white blocks before they are sewn with the colored blocks. I think it would look nice to do echo quilting around the shapes on the white blocks.
Sew blocks together.  This is the color arrangement that I used, but you can change yours to your taste (it would also look nice going dark-light)
Row 1:   1 single- 14″ white jelly roll strip
Row 2:   Brown, honey bun block
Row 3:   White, jelly roll block
Row 4:   Red, honey bun block
Row 5:  White, jelly roll block
Row 6:   Green, honey bun block
Row 7:   White, jelly roll block
Row 8:   Blue, honey bun block
Row 9:   White
Row 10: Red
Row 11: White
Row 12: Green
Row 13: White
Row 14: Blue
Row 15: White
Row 16: Red
Row 17: White
Row 18: Green
Row 19: White
Row 20: Blue
Row 21: White
Row 22: Brown
Row 23: 1 – 14″ Jelly roll strip.
You will have 1 brown block left over, you can use it if you need to make your runner longer.

Layer runner with batting and backing and quilt as desired, I quilted mine with a interlocking circle pattern.
Next applique…
To cut the words out you can use the computer font method here.
Or, if you ahve an electronic cutting machine (like a cricut),  you can use this method. You can also buy a chipboard alphabet at a scrapbook store that you like and trace those letters.

Cut the words out with your machine 3 3/4″ tall. (you will need the words, cheer, merry, bright, joy, jingle), then flip the page over so the letters are backwards.  Trace onto a piece of Heat n Bond light.
Roughly cut the letters out, and adhere (with your iron) to the back of your turnover pieces. (you could also use a charm pack, I just had a turnover on hand).

Cut out, and iron onto your runner.
This is how I laid out the applique on my runner: The color in parentheses is the color I cut the applique out of the turnover pieces. (the applique is only on the white blocks)
Order of the white blocks: (refer to photos above).
1:  trees (green)
2: “merry” (red)
3:  ornaments (blue)
4: “bright” (blue)
5:  peppermints (red/white)
6: “cheer” (blue)
7:  holly leaves (green)
8: “joy” (red)
9:   trees (green)
10: “jingle” (brown)
For the applique shapes, I used various clipart, for the holly leaves I used Camille’s pattern that she posted on moda bake shop last month. The peppermint swirls are also from that pattern, reduced 50%.
Iron the appliques onto the runner. Stitch around each with a straight stitch. I just used raw edge applique with a straight stitch. I am okay if it frays (I actually prefer that look for this project).

Bind using leftover honey bun strips. (you will need 5 strips)
Sew buttons for the holly berries.

1 runner and 1 tree skirt

12 Days of Thanksgiving Advent Calendar

Some friends and I have had the idea to make a Thanksgiving Advent Calendar for a few years. When I saw the Gobble Gobble charm pack I knew that it would be perfect for this! Here is a fun project for a countdown calendar for Thanksgiving. Instead of the 12 days of Christmas, why not the 12 days of Thanksgiving?

In each pocket you could put a treat, a quote, or a small activity for your family to do to prepare for the holiday. Hop on over to my blog, the polkadot chair, to visit me, Melissa Mortenson, for a list of activity ideas for your pockets!

2 Gobble Gobble Charm Packs
1 20×30 piece of wool felt
fabric for backing
Fusible fleece or Warm & Natural Batting
Wooden dowel
Heat and Bond Light (or your favorite fusible)

To begin, pick out your favorite 12 prints from your charm pack. Using your favorite applique method and font, cut out and adhere the numbers 1-12 to these charm pieces. If you have questions about doing this, check out my method on a previous tutorial here.

Cut out 12 pieces of fusible fleece to 5×5 (the same size as your charm pieces).
Adhere these pieces of fleece to the backs of the squares.

Sew around the number though all layers of fabric and fleece. I like to use a straight stitch, but use your favorite one for applique.

Pick out 12 more charm pieces. These will become the backs of your pockets. Sew around the 4 sides of the pocket leaving a 2″ hole in the bottom of the pocket to turn the pocket right side out.

Clip the corners of the pocket.
Turn pocket right side out.

Tuck unsewn portion of pocket in and press, if it won’t stay, use a bit of iron on seam tape to keep it closed.

Pick out 12 more charm pieces. I chose to keep them in the green/brown/red/orange family.

Alternating colors and patterns, sew these 12 pieces together, using 1/4″ seams into one long piece. Press seams all to one side.

Cut the strip of charm pieces in half lengthwise so that you have 2 strips, each 2 1/2″ wide.

Attach one strip to each long side of your piece of felt, cut off extra and save.

Attach saved strips to top and bottom (short sides) of felt.

I chose to embroider “give Thanks” to the top of my Advent Calendar. Don’t worry if you don’t have an embroidery machine. If you want “give Thanks” on your calendar, use your extra charm pieces and the same applique technique used on the pockets.

Cut a piece of fusible fleece smaller than the calendar piece. You will want to leave a 1 1/2″ – 2″ border around the fusible fleece piece. Put the “sticky” side of the fusible fleece down towards the calendar front.

Cut a piece of backing the same size.
Turn over and using saftey pins, secure all layers together.

Press to adhere the fusible fleece to the felt piece.

Using your walking foot, stitch around the entire border (in the seam between the felt and the charm border). I used a blanket stitch but you could also just use a straight stitch or any decorative stitch you like.

Next you are going to lay out your pocket pieces.

I found it helpful to first lay out all of my pocket pieces to “eyeball” where I wanted them to go and get a good idea of spacing. After this, I pulled off all but one row.

Working from the left side one row at a time, pin the pocket pieces to the calendar front. Use a ruler to make sure the pieces are lined up properly. My pieces ended up being 1 1/2″ from the side and 1 1/2″ apart from each other. Incase your pockets have “curved” in at the centers, measure from the corners to assure proper placement. Pin WELL.

Making sure to backstitch at the top of each pocket sew, using your walking foot, around each pocket, doing your best to keep your layers flat. Sew around the 3 sides of your pocket, leaving the top open.

When you finish the 1st row, pin on the 2nd row and sew it. When you finish the 2nd row, sew the 3rd row.

Using 6 charm pieces make 3 leaves using the technique outlined here: (it is the same method I used to make the bird). I just traced 3 leaves from my yard, but if you’d like the pattern I used for my leaves you can get it here.

Sew “veins” into your leaves, crinkle the leaves up in your hands to give them some dimension.

Pin the leaves onto your calendar, sewing though all layers, sew the leaves to the calendar.

To make a pocket to hang calendar from:
Sew a 2″wide piece of ribbon to top of calendar. (you are going to sew the ribbon the fabric border piece, it will be as wide as the felt). Put a bit of fray check on the ends of the ribbon.

Press and turn towards back.
Pin in place.
Hand sew ribbon through along the top AND the bottom.

To finish sides and bottom of calendar:

Turn calendar over. Turn border under 1/4″, turn under again and pin in place. Turn your calendar over and double check that the border is even all the way around, if not adjust on the back of the calendar. Hand sew in place.

1 calendar per 2 charm packs.

Eva Patchwork Memo Board

Hi, it’s Melissa from the Polkadot Chair. I’m excited to share this memo board idea with you. I know that the memo board idea has been around for a while, but I thought this was a fun new twist on it. It is a great way to show off the beautiful Eva fabric and a perfect project if you are a beginning quilter. (the ribbon will hide your seams *grin*).
The charm pack is perfect to use with this since you will get to use a large variety of fabrics to add interest and color to your board. I designed this board with cork so that it could do double duty. You could use it as a memo board or a pin board.

1 Eva Charm Pack

1/4″ wide ribbon
Buttons of various sizes
1 piece of foam core (buy it at your local craft store)
1 package of cork tile squares
fusible fleece

Spray Paint

I designed my memo board to fit in a 12×16 frame that I already had (I spray painted it to match the fabric). This is the layout that I came up with to fit best in the frame. It seems like you will have extra squares, but you need to have enough give to wrap around the back of the cork and secure to the back of the frame.

Sew the squares together like this. Use 1/4″ seams.
Next assemble your board base.
Cut a piece of foam core to 12×16. Double check that it fits in your frame, it needs to be a bit loose to allow room for the fabric.
To cut the foam core just use your rotary cutter and ruler… use an old blade since it will dull your blade.
Cut and piece the cork squares to fit on the foam core pieces. You can also use your rotary cutter to cut the cork. Using hot glue secure at the corners. Cover the entire piece of foam core.
Next cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece the same size as the foam core. You are making a sandwich. It will look like this from the side. You will have foam core, cork board, 2 layers fusible fleece then your fabric.
If you wish, at this point add a monogram or applique image to one of the squares of your memo board.
Then, iron the fusible fleece onto the backside of your charm square piece on the section of it that you want to SHOW in your frame. DOUBLE CHECK it is in the right spot before you iron it on.
Next trim the fabric so that it is 2″ wider than the fusible fleece on all sides.
Now you will begin to lay out your ribbon. Begin at one corner and working diagonally, start by pinning ribbon the width of your fabric along the seams.
Next, start laying ribbon in the opposite direction. Every place that the ribbon overlaps place a pin. You will put a button here later. (make sure the ribbon is taught)
Using your sewing machine, stitch the ends of each piece of ribbon down. This will prevent it slipping when you hand sew on your buttons.
Using buttons of random sizes, begin hand sewing them on. You will sew them on each place the ribbon overlaps that will show in the frame.
Take your fabric piece and lay it over the cork/foam core piece. Using a hot glue gun, generoulsy glue the fabric and ribbon to the back. Make sure that you put a dot of glue under the ends of each piece of ribbon.
Flip it over and it will look like this! When you are done slip it into your frame and secure. Hang it up and enjoy!
1 memo board per charm pack.

Personalized Birdie Pillow

Hello! I’m so excited to share this cute pillow with you! Feel free to ask me questions, I’ll be glad to answer them.
Stop by my blog and say hi.
Melissa at http://www.polkadotchair.blogspot.com/

1 Birdie Charm Pack
1/2 yard white fabric OR use a white twin sheet (great way to get a lot of fabric!)
Heat and Bond Light
Warm and Natural Batting
1 button for eye
1 12×16 pillow form

Pink Ric- Rack
Grosgrain Ribbon Ruffle Trim

Okay to begin you will need 1 Birdie Charm pack (shown here are a charm pack and a layer cake, but you just need a charm pack).

The finished pillow size will be 12×16.

Cut 1 piece of white fabric to 6.75×10.75.

Since this is a pillow to be used on a bed I just used a white sheet. It’s a great way to get a lot of fabric for cheap!

Next on your computer print out the name you like in a good bulky font. (I used Font Diner Loungy). In your word processing program set the type to outline and print backwards.

Print the name. I like to use a light box to trace it but you can also just use a bright window.
Trace the name onto paper side of Heat and Bond.

Next pick the fabric pieces that you would like the letters on.

Iron the letters onto the WRONG side of the fabric. Cut out letters.

Arrange cut letters on white fabric piece. Iron on.

From the charm squares cut 42 strips 1.5 ” x 3″.

Sew (using a 1/4″ seam) 2 sets of 6 strips together.

Sew them to the sides of the center panel.

Sew 2 sets of 15 strips together,
Sew to top and bottom of center panel.

Using your favorite applique stitch, stitch around the letters. I just used a straight stitch.

Next you will need to quilt your pillow. You can do this to your liking. I used 1 layer of warm and natural and a piece of scrap fabric for the back (since it will not show).

I used a walking foot and did a decorative stitch in each seam. Then quilted wavy lines down the center panel.

Next. Using thread the same color as your ric rac, sew ric rac around edge of the center panel.
Set aside.

To make bird embellishment:

Trace a shape of a bird onto a piece of Heat and Bond. I used a piece of chipboard that I had in my scrapbooking stash. Trace the wing also.

Trim around Heat and Bond and iron onto wrong side of fabric.

Cut out bird.
Iron onto a piece of warm and natural.
Iron wing on.
Cut bird out.

Cut a 2nd piece of Heat and Bond. Iron onto warm and natural side of the bird.

Iron bird onto wrong side of a 2nd piece of fabric. The bird is double sided because you can see the back of it when sewed on the pillow.

(you are pretty much making a warm and natural sandwich… with a piece of fabric on each side)
Stitch around the edge of the bird, as close to the edge as you can.
Cut out bird. Sew on eye.

Pin Bird onto completed pillow top. Stitch though all layers (bird and pillow top) of the bird ONLY on the wing. Stitch around it 3 times to give it a nice dimensional touch.

Sew trim to edges of pillow. Attach back of pillow (also used a sheet) insert pillow form and stitch opening closed.

You will need approximately 20 charm squares for the pillow (depending on how you do your name) so you should be able to get 2 pillows out of one charm pack.

Angela’s Diaper Bag

Hi, my name is Melissa Mortenson and I’m very excited to share the tutorial for this fun diaper bag! It is made from 1 charm pack and 1 layer cake… that’s it! No other yardage required … just some interfacing and fusible fleece! I made this for a friend, Angela, thus the name.

I hope you enjoy it! I loved making it. Stop by my blog the polkadot chair and say hi!

1 Charm Pack- I used Santorini by Lila Tueller
1 Layer Cake
Fusible Fleece
Timtex/Peltex (fusible)
Heavy Weight Fusible Interfacing (I used fuse-a-shade)
Wide ribbon

1 pkg fabric lamination sheets- I used Heat n’ Bond Iron on Vinyl Matte. It comes in a package and is sold at the fabric store next to the Heat n’ Bond products.

1 hand towel
1/4″ wide elastic

This bag uses 1 layer cake and 1 charm pack. You will use almost the entire package of both. So to begin it is VERY important that you lay out all of your pieces. I think it’s easiest to open the package and put “similar” prints and colors together. It helps with sorting.

First lay out the pieces for the front and back of the bag.

These are charm pieces. (5″ pre-cut squares)

You will need 8 uncut charms for the front and 8 for the back

You will then need 4 additional charms for the top border.

Cut these pieces in half so that you have 8 2.5×5″ pieces.

Stitch together bag front and back pieces.

Set aside. You are done with the charm pieces

*note : I have an embroidery machine. So I decided to add a monogram to the front. If you do this, do it after the pieces are stitched but before you complete any other steps.

Next the layer cake pieces. Hold on this one’s a biggie!

Put piles by color or pattern. You will have several that you have 2 of the same pattern but different colors, you will also have several that are exactly the same. Match those up. Put in piles.

You will need:
2 matching/coordinating layer cake (LC) pieces for the side panels
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for side panel lining
1 LC piece for side panel & side lining border
2 matching/coordinating LC for the outer pockets
2 matching/coordinating for the LC outer pockets lining
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for the bottom of the bag (outside bottom)
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for the inside bottom of bag
4 LC pieces for front and back lining
1 or 2 LC piece for front and back lining border (up to you if you want the same pattern on all the border- I used 2 different pieces)
12 LC pieces for inside pockets (I just used a variety of pieces for this, none of them were the same)
2 matching LC pieces for bag divider side 1
2 matching LC pieces for bag divider side 2

Okay now you are going to cut some of your Layer Cake Pieces. SAVE ALL of your scraps. We will use some of them later. (note: in this photo the pieces look to be different lengths, they are not, they are both 10″ long, they just are laid out and not sewn yet that is why they look different)

The side panel of the bags are 8” wide.
Cut the following to 8” wide (do NOT cut the other edge, leave it at 10”)

2 side panels
2 side linings
1 side panel border
1 side panel border lining

Next Cut the side panel border piece to:
8” x 2.5″- you need 4

Cut 2 side pockets to:
Cut 2 side pocket linings to

Now for bag lining pieces:

Cut front and back lining border- to do this, Cut 1 layer cake piece into
4 pieces each 10”x 2.5” (you can use 2 different patterns if you like, that is what I did)

Now you are ready to start sewing!

Start with the lining:

Sew front lining piece (uncut layer piece) to lining border piece (10×2.5) Press seam up.
Sew 2nd front lining piece to lining border piece. Press seam down.
Matching seams sew 2 lining pieces together. (you will end up with a piece that is approx. 19.5 wide x 12.25 tall)
Repeat for back lining pieces & borders.

Due to seam allowance differences you need to trim the bag front piece (made out of charms earlier) and the lining piece to the same size.

Match centers and lay bag front over bag front lining. Trim excess off bag lining so it is the same size as bag front.

Repeat for back lining and bag back

Sew side lining pieces (8×10) to side lining borders (2.5×8)

Sew 2 layer cake pieces together to make bag lining bottom.

Next cut heavy weight fusible interfacing the same size as ALL lining pieces. Iron on. Set lining pieces aside.

you should have:

1 bag front lining

2 side panel linings

1 bag back lining

1 bag bottom lining
Next move to the outer bag pieces:

Sew 2 uncut layer cake pieces together to form Bottom of bag.

Cut a piece of fusible fleece the same size as the pieces and iron on to the following pieces:
Bag Front
Bag Back
2 side panels
2 pockets (8×8) do NOT put fusible fleece on the pocket lining pieces.
Bottom of Bag

Make the outer pockets:

Baste a 8” piece of piping to the top pocket
Pin pocket lining piece to pocket right sides together

With fusible fleece facing up…stitch pocket to lining on the SAME stitching line you used to baste the piping on.

Turn right side out and press.

Place pocket on top of side panel. Match edges and baste pocket to side panel

Sew bag front to side panel
Sew same side panel to bag back
Sew 2nd side panel to bag back
Sew bag front to 2nd side panel
(photo shows bag front, 1 side panel and bag back)

PRESS seams so that you get crisp edges.

You will get something that looks like this:

Next sew bag bottom on. Sew 2 long sides first stopping ¼” from the edges. Then sew short sides.

This will complete the outside of the bag.

Set aside

Next inside pockets.
Repeat the following steps for inside pockets for front & back of bag

Sew 3 pocket pieces together. (uncut layer pieces)
Press seams
Sew 3 pocket lining pieces together
(photo shows pocket lining side)

Sew inside pocket pieces to pocket lining pieces at top (right sides together)
Press seam open. Turn right side out.

Measuring down ½” from the top of the pocket sew a casing for elastic.
(photo shows pocket side)

Cut a piece of elastic 19.5”. Thread though casing. (Adjust elastic if necessary so that pocket lays flat when pinned to bag lining.) Stitch elastic securely at both sides.

Lay pocket onto bag lining

Match side seams centers and bottom.

Form a pleat in the bottom of each pocket so that the top and bottom are the same width

Baste bottom to hold pleats in place. Baste sides.

Making sure to back stitch several times, sew down each panel to divide pocket into 3 separate compartments.

Sew lining front to side lining

sew side lining to lining back
sew lining back to 2nd side lining
sew 2nd side lining to front lining
Press seams open very well.

Sew lining bottom into lining.

Make handles:

You will need 8 scraps of layer cake (these are the pieces you saved from cutting earlier). Each piece should be 2×10

Sew 2 pieces together at short seam. Do this so you have 4 pieces 2”x 19.75

Press seams open

Apply heavy weight fusible interfacing to 2 of the handle pieces.

Sew 1 handle piece (with out interfacing) to one with interfacing. Sewing along one long side. Press seam open. Press raw edge of handle piece under ¼” on both pieces.

Fold in half (wrong sides together) and top stitch down both of the long sides of the handles.

Assemble the bag

Cut a piece of fusible peltex to fit inside of the bottom of the of the bag.

Pin & sew handle to front and back of bag. Sew over handle several times since this is a “stressed” area of the bag. Lining them up with the seam of the 5” squares

Pin & sew ribbon (cut it long, you can trim it later) to front and back centers of bag

On BOTH bag lining piece and bag pieces press under top seam ¼”

Insert peltex into bottom of bag

Put bag lining into bag. Match top seams and pin well. If for some reason the seams do not match up… adjust the side seams so that they do.

Very SLOWLY and carefully… top stitch bag to bag lining. Being careful not to catch the handles or the ribbon in the seams.

Put your iron INSIDE the sewn bag. Iron the inside bottom of the bag to fuse the peltex to bag and bag lining.

Make the divider:

Measure the width of your bag. Mine was 17.5. Cut a piece of peltex 17.5×9.5.

Take your 4 matching LC pieces. Sew 2 pieces together forming divider front and and 2 pieces to form back.

Sew divider front piece to divider back (right sides together) piece along 3 sides. (leaving short side open). Press well.

Slide peltex into divider.

Fold raw edge of divider in. Press. Top stitch around all 4 sides of divider.

Place divider inside finished bag. By hand, whip stitch divider into place at the top and bottom corners.

Optional Changing pad: You have enough pieces left over so why not make one? 🙂

Cut 1 layer cake piece into 4 pieces, each 2.5 x 10

Sew to edges of 2 LC pieces.

Sew 2 pieces together and Press .

Laminate using iron on lamination sheets according to package directions.

Place laminated/pieced fabric on top of hand towel. Cut hand towel to size of laminated fabric.

Attach 2 loops of ¼” elastic to top of changing pad. Stitch down and back stitch… (these pop off easily if not stitched down properly)

Put right sides together and stitch changing pad to towel. Starting and stopping between elastic pieces. Turn inside out.
Press again (you will need the pressing piece from the lamination to be able to iron it- otherwise you will melt the laminate).

Whip stitch opening closed.

1 Diaper Bag