Candy Scraps Quilt


Hello all!–I am excited to be sharing another quilt pattern with you here on Moda Bake Shop.  My name is Corey; you will usually find me blogging over at Little Miss Shabby.
I am always drawn to a great scrap quilt–they are probably some of my favorite quilts.  Moda’s mini charm packs are a perfect way to create a scrap quilt.  If you prefer a less scrappy quilt, this quilt could also be made using one regular charm pack and one mini charm pack.  Check out the end of the tutorial to see the quilt made using Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts.


*5 Moda Candy packs (I used From Outside In, Ducks in a Row, April Showers, Mixed Bag, & Daydream)
1 White Solid Jelly Roll
2 1/4 yard Linen Mochi Dot Unbleached Linen (32911-11)
3 1/8 yard Backing
1/2 yard Binding (I used April Showers, Teal Stripe, 55083-12)
56″ x 72″ batting

*For a less scrappy version choose one regular charm pack & one Moda Candy pack, cut each 5″ square into (4) 2.5″ squares


(48) 8 1/2″(trim a regular sized piece of paper to the correct size) pieces of copy paper; draw a diagonal line from one corner to another

A variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton if hand quilting

Cutting Instructions

From the Jelly Roll:
Use 22 strips, cut (192) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles (cut 9 from each strip)

From the Linen cut:
(16) 1 3/4″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 1 3/4″ x 14″ strips
(7) 6″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 6″ squares, cut diagonally once to make 96 triangles

Block Construction

~All sewing is done right sides together using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance~
Begin by sewing together the mini charm pack squares in pairs.  You will need a total of 96 pairs.  Press toward the darker fabric.

Sew a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle onto each side of the units made above as pictured below.  Press to the white.
Center a 1 3/4″ x 14″ linen strip across the unmarked diagonal.  Tip: use a little bit of temp. spray adhesive to keep it in place.
Place a mini charm strip right sides together with the linen strip.  Center as illustrated.  Using a small stitch length, sew the strips together.  You will be sewing the strips onto the paper.  Press away from the center.
Sew another mini charm strip to the other side of the linen strip in the same manner.
Sew a triangle onto each side.  Center as illustrated.  Press away from the center.
Your block should now look like this:
Trim the block even with the 8 1/2″ paper.  Remove the paper to complete the block.
Make a total of (48) 8 1/2″ blocks.
Layout the blocks 6 blocks x 8 blocks.  Sew together, pressing the seams of adjacent rows in opposite directions.
Your quilt top is now complete and you can baste, quilt, and bind using your preferred methods.  For my quilt, I opted to big stitch, hand quilt using a variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton threads.
A striped binding is the perfect addition to any quilt.
And, of course, as promised here is the quilt using all Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts:


One scrappy 48″ x 64″ Candy Scraps Quilt.  Perfect for snuggling under–my kids will attest to this! =)

For other fun quilts, tutorials, quilt alongs, and stitch alongs, visit my blog at Little Miss Shabby.

Corey Yoder
{www.littlemissshabby.com}

Quilting Bee Sampler Quilt



Hello again, I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts and it is an honor for me to be with you today at Moda Bake Shop.  As a quilter, I love big modern prints and Kate Spain’s newest fabric line, Daydreams.  It is full of awesome fabrics.  These prints are so beautiful, they are inspiring.  These fabrics are so bright and fun that they leave me daydreaming about the beach–which is great since there is a foot of snow outside!  I also enjoy using traditional quilt blocks made from newer techniques, such as those utilized when sewing with pre-cut fabrics.  I hope you enjoy this quilting bee sampler as it is a traditional style quilt in modern fabrics.  

For this sampler, we will need:

  • 1 Layer Cake (or two charm square packages) of your favorite print (I’m using Daydreams by Kate Spain)
  • 2 white Bella solids charm square packages
  • 1 1/4 yards for the setting triangles (I’m using Daydreams Cadence Stream)
  • 2  yards for the sashing strips and inner ease border (I’m using Daydreams Full Circle Rose)
  • 2 1/2  yards for the outer border (I’m using Daydreams Reflection Rose)
  • 1 yard for the binding (I’m using Daydreams Arcadia Ink)

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS:  As always, please read through all the instructions prior to beginning any project.   Unless otherwise indicated, all seam allowances are 1/4 inch.  I recommend testing that your quilting foot and pressing is actually creating a 1/4 inch seam allowance prior to beginning this project and making any necessary adjustments.  This will help the pieced border fit the patchwork more readily.   Press all seams in the direction of least bulk unless otherwise indicated.  Also, trim all dog-ears on your half-square triangles (HSTs) as this will help intersecting points lie flat.   And last, but not least, to ensure that your points do not get blunted when they are attached to sashing and borders, always sew with the HSTs on top. face-down with right sides of fabrics together and away from the feed dogs.  This way you can see the top point of your piecing.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS:

  • Cut your layer cake in half to yield a 5 inch strip.  Reserve one half for another project and cut the other half into two sets of 5-inch squares.
  • Cut border fabrics along the lengthwise grain:
    • White outside border: cut four, 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long
    • Pink outside border: cut four, 7 1/2 inches wide by 84 inches long.
  • Cut teal setting triangles to ensure the bias edge goes against the piecing and not the outer pieced edge:
    •  Cut one large square measuring 24 inches.  Cut these in half diagonally, and then again to yield 4 triangles measuring 16 1/2 inches tall by 24 inches long.  These are the setting triangles.
    • Cut two triangles measuring 12 1/2 inches square.  Cut these in half diagonally, each square yielding two triangles.  Yield: 4 total squares for the outside corners of the setting.
  • Cut sashing strips along lengthwise grain:
    • Cut eight strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 16 1/2 inches long.
    • Cut four strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 20 1/2 inches long.
    • Cut two strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 58 1/2 inches long.   Excess length will be trimmed away later.

PIECING THE BLOCKS: The finished block size is 16 1/2 inches square.

Note: All of the blocks use half-square triangle units (HSTs) in different orientations.  However, some of the blocks use a different number of them. I recommend sewing the HTSs for each individual block as you go, not chain piecing all the HSTs at once. This will help with the color coordination as well as keeping you from sewing HSTs that are not needed.

 Use this layout diagram to create the Mosaic Tile block.  Sort 8 blue charm squares and 8 white squares to create this block

To create the half-square triangle units (this technique is used to create all HSTs throughout):

  • Draw a diagonal line down the center of all of the white Bella solids charm squares. 
  • Layer one 5-inch charm square on top of your 5-inch  charm square print.
  • Sew down both sides.

  • Cut these in half on the drawn line.

  • Press all squares open and toward the print fabric.

  • Layout all HST units and check them with the layout diagram prior to sewing the block together.  I like to have the stronger prints creating the center diamond, but you can play around and make it how you like it.

Here’s the sewn block:

Use this layout diagram to create the Whirlpool, also known as a Windblown block.  Sort 8 red and pink charm squares and 8 white charm squares.

To create the half-square triangle units follow the same method of creating the HST units as shown in the Mosaic Tile block.

  • Layout all HST units and check them with the layout diagram prior to sewing the block together.  As the charm square is cut in half diagonally, it yields two identical HST units.  These paired end to end create a diamond.
  • When I layout my blocks with a diamond shape in them, I layout the paired HST units creating the diamond first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.
  • Now add the outside flying geese units with points going in.

  • And..the finished block:

Use this layout diagram to create the Yankee Puzzle block.  Sort 8 yellow and orange charm squares and 8 white squares for this block.

  • To create the half-square triangle units follow the same method of creating the HST units as shown in the Mosaic Tile block.
  •  As in the previous block, when I layout my blocks with a diamond shape first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.
  •  Now add the rest of the pieces.

  • And…the finished block:

Use this layout diagram to create the Clay’s Choice block.  Set aside 4 green charm squares and 4 white squares for the outer block edges.  Trim these to measure 4 1/2 inches.  Sort 4 more green squares and 4 more white charm squares and sew them into HST units as previously shown.

  • As in the previous block, when I layout my blocks with a diamond shape in them, I layout the paired HST units creating the diamond first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.  Then add the remaining pieces.

  • And the finished block:


 Use this layout diagram to create the Flying X block.  Set aside 4  print charm squares and 4 white squares for the outer block edges.  Trim these to measure 4 1/2 inches.  Sort 4 more multi-colored charm squares and 4 more white charm squares and sew them into HST units as previously shown.

  • In this block, I layout the pinwheel center first, then add the remaining pieces.

For all blocks: Trim the blocks to a 16 1/2 inch square.

 PIECING THE CENTER:

  • Add the sashing lattice to the blocks.
    • Note: Sashing will over-hang the setting triangles to be put in later and this excess will be trimmed away and squared in the final squaring of the patchwork center. (This photo shows it being trimmed away at a later step.  I just thought I’d give you a “heads-up” now so you don’t worry when you see the over-hang.)
Assembly diagram of adding the sashing to the end blocks.
  1. Sew a 2 1/2 inches by 16 1/2 inches strip to both sides of the Yankee Puzzle and Flying X and blocks.
  2.  Sew a 2 1/2 inch strip by 20 1/2 inch strip to one side of the Yankee Puzzle and Flying X blocks.
Assembly diagram of adding the sashing to the center blocks.
      1. Sew a 2 1/2 inches by 16 1/2 inches strip to both sides of the Mosaic Tile block.
      2. Sew the Whirlpool block to one side of the Mosaic Tile block and the Clay’s Choice to the other side of the Mosaic Tile block.  Add the two 2 1/2 inch by 58 inch strips to this pieced unit.  Trim away excess to fit the length.
      3.  Finish the outside edges by adding a 2 1/2 inch strip by 20 1/2 inch strip to the remaining edge of the Whirlpool and Clay’s Choice blocks.

    ADD THE SETTING TRIANGLES

    1. Sew the 16 1/2 inch by 24 inch triangles to both sides of the Yankee Puzzle and Clay’s Choice block.
    2. When this strip is finished, sew these two units to the center patchwork blocks.  Do not worry that the sashing sticks out of the setting triangles.  It is part of the design and will be trimmed away later.
    3. Add the four outer 12 1/2 inch triangles to the remaining four corners.
    Piecing Diagram

    ADD BORDERS:

    • Sew the HST border using the method shown in the Mosaic Tile block section.
    • Sew left and right hand side borders, both consisting of 12 pieces.  Refer to the layout diagram for placement.
    • Sew the top and bottom borders, both consisting of 14 pieces.  Refer to the layout diagram for placement.
    Sawtooth border diagram.  This diagram shows 16 pieces, but you only need 14.

      TO EASE IN THE HST BORDER:

      • Measure the ironed finished length of the 12-piece HST border.  It should be 50 1/2 inches long.  
      • Measure your finished patchwork center, it too should be 50 1/2 inches long.  
        • Note: Often there are variations in piecing and pressing that could get these two to differ.  If your quilt top does not measure up, square the center patchwork section to measure the same as your 12-piece HST border.  (Ah-ha!  So this is where we trim off the sashing overhang!)
          • Iron the quilt top folded in half twice to create creases showing the panel’s center.  Pin-match the center of the HST border with these creases and pin from the center out.  Sew on the HST units border.
          • Sew on the outer borders starting with the 2 1/2 inch border, then add the 7 inch border.
          • Quilt as desired!
          Assembly diagram with borders.

          Finished quilt top measures 81 inches square.

          Note: If you choose to make this project omitting the saw-tooth border, you will only need one 42-piece print charm pack and one 42-piece Bella solids charm pack.

          Here is an alternate colorway using the modern gray back-grounds instead of the white.  Also this has a saw-tooth border variation where all the HSTs face the same direction.  I like it too!

          Here are some photos of how I quilted the top.  I just fell in love with this fabric and had to do some crazy free-motion quilting on it.  I hope you like the ideas.

          Shannon Mower
          {www.moderntraditionquilts.blogspot.com}

          Elfin Sleeping Bag and Pillow


          Hi everyone, it’s Chris Warnick from www.frecklemama.com again with a simple project that is perfect for the holiday season, gifts for the grandkids, or a even a beginner project for teaching the kids to sew.

          Do you have a small elfin creature who comes to visit you in the night?  Maybe just during the winter months?  Well then he or she is probably getting chilly right about now.  Have a heart and make the poor fella a sleeping bag with a comfy pillow.  It is a quick and easy project that can also be used to make placemats!  Let’s get started.

          52 Moda Candy Mini-Charm Squares for the sleeping bag and pillow exterior – I used In From The Cold by Kate Spain (Note: I actually used scraps so I have more repetition than a Candy pack will provide.)

          1 piece of backing fabric for the sleeping bag interior 12 1/2″ x 16 1/2″  (Note: my interior piece is pieced from two fabrics.)
          1 piece of batting 12 1/2″ x 16 1/2″
          Small handful of polyfil or some cotton balls for stuffing the pillow


          Ric-rac, piping, ruffles, ribbon, buttons or any other trims desired to make your sleep sack “fancy”

          To make the sleeping bag exterior, select 48 mini-charm squares and sew together into pairs.
          Once in pairs, layout the mini-charms to create two panels, each 4 squares across and 6 squares down.  (Set aside the remaining two pairs for the pillow.)  These panels will be the front and back of your sleeping bag.

          Sew the pairs together to form the two panels.

          Sew the two panels together to make one big panel.  This is the sleeping bag exterior.

          Next grab your batting and backing/interior piece.  Each should have the same measurements of your exterior panel (12.5″ x 16.5″ in my case).  Below is my exterior panel on top of my backing to check that they are the same size.

          Place batting down first, then the exterior piece right-side up next, followed by the backing right-side down.  See photo below for clarification.  Basically, you are placing exterior and interior pieces right-sides together (RST) and then placing that pair on top of your batting.
          

          Now sew around the entire rectangle leaving a 3″ gap for turning. I like using a “green for go” and “red for stop” pin to remind me to leave the gap:

          Clip the corners to reduce bulk.  Flip the whole thing through the gap and poke out the corners with a chopstick or knitting needle.

          Press into a pretty rectangle, paying special attention to making your gap nicely pressed.

          Top stitch close to the edge around the entire rectangle.  This will automatically close the gap.

          If you just want a great table mat, placemat, or very large mug rug, stop here!  Enjoy your finished item!  If you are making the sleeping bag, you’re almost done.

          Quilt a stich line straight down the middle.  If this panel is an open book, you are quilting down the spine.  This helps stabilize the batting to keep it from bunching.  You can also quilt the entire panel if desired.

          Now, close your “book” by folding the piece in half.  Begin sewing the two sides together about two squares down from the top.  Sew carefully since there are many layers.  Sew down to the corner and around to close the bottom.  Notice that I pinned the corner to keep it from shifting:
          To tack the flap open, use a hand sewing stitch in the corner.  Be sure to sew just through one layer rather than sewing the bag closed in that spot.

          Someone has his eye on this already.  It’s a little wide for him, but his plush friends might enjoy the extra elbow room. 

          
          If your elfin friend wants a snugger bag, adapt the pattern to result in an exterior that is 3 squares across rather than 4.  That would look like this:

          But wait, no one wants to rest their weary head on a cutting mat, do they?  Let’s make a pillow to go with the sleeping bag.  Grab the two pairs of squares left over from your original panel layout. 
          

          Place these pairs right sides together and sew around the entire rectangle leaving a 1″ gap for turning.  Clip the corners and turn right-side out.  Stuff the pillow with polyfil by using very small bits to prevent lumps.

          Pinch the gap closed and fit under the presserfoot.  Topstitch around pillow edges, naturally closing the gap.  You may need to shift the stuffing around to help get the edges of the pillow under the foot.

          AHHHH, much better!  Sleep tight little elfin friend.
          One doll-sized sleeping bag and pillow.  Hopefully your elfin friends won’t be caught sleeping on the job!
          Have a wonderful holiday season, and be sure to share your Moda Bake Shop projects on the Flickr page!  If you have any questions or are looking for a quilt pattern for your human-sized friends, please come visit me at www.frecklemama.com.
          Happy sewing!
          Chris Warnick
          Frecklemama

          Sunny Steps Quilt


          Hi, my name is Alison Tudor of Sew and Tell Quilts. Sunny Steps was inspired by Kate Spain’s Sunnyside line and my love of  3D and geometric designs. While this quilt looks great in these middle volume colors, it also looks great in solids and bold prints. Don’t let paper piecing scare you away from this pattern. This is a very simple paper piecing project. The only tricky part to this quilt is getting all the prints in the right place.

          Come and visit me at sewandtellquilts.com any time.

           

          • 3⅛ yards of Bella Solids white (9900-98)
          • 1 fat quarter bundle of Sunnyside by Kate Spain
          • ¾ yard of Sunnyside Prism Blaze for the middle border
          • 2 yards of Sunnyside Skyward Sprig for the outer border and binding (or ½ yard of a different print if you choose to use a contrasting binding)
          • 4¼ yards backing fabric
          • 72″ x 72″ piece of batting
          • Foundation pattern pieces (in Printer Friendly Version)


          Pay close attention to the Quilt Layout Diagram as fabric placement is very important. You may choose to cut your strips slightly larger than indicated if you are new to foundation piecing. Make a test block before cutting all of your fabric.

          Cutting Directions
           Select 32 fat quarters from the bundle. Choose a good mix of light and dark prints.


          From each fat quarter cut: 
          2 – 4″ x wof strips, sub cut each into one 11″ x 4″ strip (for block centers) and one 4″ x 5″ strip (for block corners)
          1 – 3 1/2″ x wof strip, sub cut  into two 3 1/2 x 5″ strip (for block corners)

          From the white fabric cut: 
          28 – 3″ x wof strips, sub cut into six 3″ x 6″ pieces (for blocks)

          From middle border fabric, cut 6 strips measuring 2½”” x WOF

          From outer border fabric, cut 7 strips measuring 4½” x WOF

          From the binding fabric, cut 7 strips measuring 2½” x WOF 

          Making the Blocks
          This quilt looks complicated but consists of two simple blocks, A and B. Don’t let paper piecing scare you. This is an easy paper pieced project, good for a first time paper piecer.

          Block A

          Block B

          Foundation patterns for Blocks A and B can be found in the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of this post. 

          1. Make 32 copies of each of the paper-foundation pattern blocks and trim the pattern to a comfortable size, leaving at least 1/4˝ around the outside cutting line. 
          2. Place a 11” x 3-1/4” rectangle right side up on the blank (unmarked) side of the pattern. Make sure the fabric covers the entire area by at least 1/4˝ on all sides and pin in place. Place a 11” x 2-3/4” white rectangle on top of  the print rectangle, right sides together. With the marked side of the paper foundation up and the fabrics on the bottom, sew on the line between areas 1 and 
          3. Fold the paper pattern back and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝. Open the fabrics so that both pieces are right side up and press. 
          4.  Fold the paper back along the next seam line, between areas 2 and 3. Trim the fabric so that it extends 1/4˝ past the folded line. This trimming creates a straight edge upon which you can line up your next fabric piece, making the placement easier. 
          5.  Place a 4” x 2-1/2” corner rectangle on top of white piece and sew on the line between areas 2 and 3. Flip open the triangle and press. 
          6.  Repeat steps 4 and 5, adding white and print rectangles in numerical order until the pattern is completely covered with fabric pieces. Press the unit. 
          7.  Use a rotary cutter to trim away the excess fabric around the block, leaving a 1/4˝ seam allowance all around the outer sewing line. The block should measure 7” square. 

          Quilt Layout Diagram 

          Make the Borders
          Join the 1 1/2″ wide white strips end to end. Measure the length of the quilt, it should measure 56″, cut two strips to this length.  Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top, it should measure 58″. Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top for the inner border.

          For middle border join  2 1/2″ wide strips end to end. Measure the length of the quilt, it should measure 58″.  Cut two strips to this length.  Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top, it should measure 62″. Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top.

          For the outer border join 4 1/2″ strips  end to end.  Measure the length of the quilt, it should measure 62″. Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top, it should measure 70″.   Cut two strips to this length. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top to complete the borders.

          Quilt Assembly
          Lay out the blocks in 8 rows of 8 blocks each as shown in the quilt layout diagram. Join the blocks in rows and then join the rows. Add the 1 1/2” white inner border, the 2-1/2” middle border and the 4-1/2” outer border. Layer the quilt top with batting and backing; baste.

          Quilt as desired. Detail in photo below shows how I quilted mine.

          Piece binding strips end-to-end on the bias and press seams. Press in half lengthwise to create single-fold binding. Attach to quilt using your preferred binding method.


           This was quilted with a stair-step straight-line pattern. Finished quilt measures 70″ x 70″

          Alison Tudor
          {www.sewandtellquilts.com}

          Christmas Spools Quilt

          It’s not even Halloween yet but that didn’t stop me from getting a jumpstart on Christmas sewing! This quilt is an easy project that will get you ready for the holidays in a hurry.


          1 charm pack of In From The Cold by Kate Spain (spool centers)
          1.5 yards Bella Solids in Paper Bag (spool tops and bottoms)
          1.5 yards Bella Solids in Bleached White (surrounding spools)
          1.5 yards Bella Solids in Bleached White (sashing and borders)
          1/8 yard In From The Cold – Mint (center squares)
          4 yards (backing)
          1/2 yard In From The Cold – Marshmallow (binding)

           
          P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }

          cutting instructions

          for the top and bottom of spools

          cut 21 2 ½” x wof strips

          subcut each strip into 4 – 2½” x 9″ strips

          you need 84


          for the sides of spools

          cut 11 – 2½” x wof strips

          subcut each strip into 8 – 2 ½” x 5″ strips

          you will need 84


          for the corners of spools

          cut 11 – 2½” x wof strips

          subcut each strip into 16 – 2 ½” squares

          you will need 168


          for the corner stones

          cut 2 – 2″ x wof

          subcut both strips into 40 – 2″ squares

          you will need 30


          for sashing

          cut 18 – 2″ x wof strips

          subcut each strip into 4 – 2″ x 9″ strips

          you will need 71


          for binding

          cut 7 – 2 ½” x wof



          for backing
          cut 2 –  72″ x wof pieces

          **for border

          cut 7 – 2″ x wof strips

          measure the perimeter of the quilt top

          firstsubcut 2 strips to that length (should be 59″)

          sew top and bottom borders on

          nextmeasure the sides and subcut 2 strips to that

          length (should be 72″)



          piecing instructions

          for each spool block you will need : 
          1 charm square
          2 – 2½” x 9″ strips
          2 – 2½ x 5″ strips 

          4 – 2½” squares

          1.  Draw a diagonal line on each of the 168 – 2½” squares

           

          2.  With right sides together, pin 2½ ” squares to corners of the spool top and bottom strips, as pictured.

           
          P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }3.  Sew directly on the line, trim ¼” from seam, press out.  Repeat until all 84 strips are completed.
           
          4.  Sew 2½” x 5″ strips on opposite side of each charm square, press  toward charm square.
          5.  Pin spool top and bottom to center.
          6.  Carefully sew top and bottom to the center, press toward center.

          block should measure 9″ x 9″


          Repeat as instructed for each block.  **To use less thread and time, I chain stitched all the center portions of the block, then the spool portions.

          lay blocks out as you like
          7.  Sew 35 – 2″ sashing to the right side of each block minus the far right row.  Press seams towards sashing.
          8.  For horizontal sashing, sew 30 – 2″ corner stones to 2″ sashing strips. 
          9.  Sew strips into rows consisting of 5 corner stone/sashing strips.
          You will then sew the remaining 6 – 2″ sashing strips to the end of each row.
          10.  Press corner stones out.  Pin each sashing strip to the bottom of the first 6 spool rows, sew together. 
          11.  Pin rows together, sew.  Press seams towards sashing.  
          12.  Sew sashing to the top and bottom, press out.  Sew sashing to sides, press out.

          13.  Quilt, bind, and enjoy!  
          Beautifully long arm quilted by Kathy Olkowski.

          The Moda Bake Shop has a fabulous binding tutorial here.


          P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }

          62″ x 72″ adorable Christmas spools quilt

          Trish Poolson
          {notesofsincerity.blogspot.com}

          Sunnyside Stars Quilt


          Hello again!  This is Karin Vail from Cascade Quilts with yet another Moda Bake Shop project for you!  This one is super quick and EASY, I promise!  If you have a layer cake that has larger prints that you just hate to cut down into small pieces, this is a perfect pattern for that!  It has nice large blocks that will show off those wonderful prints!  Let’s get started!

          1 layer cake (Sunnyside by Kate Spain)
          1 jelly roll (Sunnyside by Kate Spain)
          1/3 yard of 2 different prints (each cut into four 10” squares)
          3 2/3 yard Moda Bella Solid (Snow) cut into fifty 10” squares)
          3/4 yard print for binding (or you can use 10 strips left from your jelly roll for a scrappy binding)
          6 2/3 yards print for backing


          Your layer cake will contain 42 squares.  Since the base of this pattern is made from 100 HST’s, you will need 50 print squares and 50 solid squares.  So, from your 1/3 yard cuts of 2 different fabrics, cut four 10” squares from each, so you will now have 50 print squares.
          Cut fifty 10” squares from your Bella solid yardage.

          On the wrong side of your solids, draw one diagonal line from corner to corner.  Pair the solids with the prints (right sides together) and stitch a scant 1/4” from the each side of the line.  Continue with all 50 pairs.

          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

          Cut each of the 50 pairs on the line drawn.
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

          Press each section open to reveal 100 large HST’s.  Do not square them up yet. Set aside 36 of your HST’s.  Lay one at a time of the remaining 64 HST’s on your cutting mat with the lower left corner matching up with lines on your cutting mat.  You will be cutting a wedge off the solid portion 2” down from the top/left corner and 2” over from the bottom/left corner.

          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

          You will now have 64 pieces that look like this.  The scrap to the left is waste.
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

          Now, take 16 strips from your jelly roll and cut the selvages off and cut them into quarters.  This will yield approximately 11” long strips (64 total).
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          Take a strip and line it up (right sides together) with the cut edge of one of your HST’s.  Make sure it hangs over the top edge by at least 1/4”.

          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

          Stitch 1/4” along  the edge of the strip.
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          Press open.
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

          Now, you can square up your blocks to a perfect 9.5” square.  If you didn’t do a *scant* 1/4” when you stitched on either side of the line, you might find it difficult to get the full 9.5” square.  You can trim them to 9.25” if you like, just as long as they are all the same. You can also square up your 36 HST’s that you set aside that didn’t get the wedge shape (the same size as the ones with the wedge).

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          Now that you have your 100 sub-blocks ready, I suggest matching them up into 25 sets of 4.
          There will be 9 sets with all four sections with wedges.

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          There will be 16 block sets with 2 wedge sections and 2 plain HST sections.

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          And there will be 4 sets with only one wedge section and 3 plain HST sections.

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          Now, arrange your blocks so that the plain HST sections are on the border and sew together.  You now have a finished quilt top that should measure 90.5”x90.5”.
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          Since this is such a large quilt top, you will need to piece your backing in several pieces (unless you use a wide backing material).  This is one option for piecing your backing.

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          This is the backing on this finished quilt – I decided to piece it using 2 different prints – the yellow from Sunnyside and the blue from a print from Cuzco (a previous collection print also by Kate Spain for Moda)

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          I was playing with options for this quilt, and I think it would look wonderful if you used all the same print for the stars as well:
          If you wanted to go this route, you could use 1 1/8 yards of a print for your stars in place of the partial jelly roll.   OR, if you wanted to use a Bella solid, you would only need 5/8 of a yard because you can use the cut-off pieces from your wedges when you square up the blocks to use on another block since Bella solids are reversible!  I like this idea since I hate to see any waste 🙂

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          Here is a mock-up of what it would look like using S’more Love (making it smaller).  I love the contrast with this fabric line.

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          After you have finished piecing the top, layer your quilt top/batting/backing and quilt as desired!  This was my first experience with longarm quilting a quilt, and I can’t wait to try the next!  I’m hoping to do FMQ next time!  This was a pre-programmed pattern on a computerized longarm that I ‘rented’ time on.

          I love the texture of a freshly washed quilt!


          approx 90”x90” quilt

          Karin Vail
          {www.cascadequilts.com}

          Quilted Patchwork Pouch

          Hi!  I’m Julie from 627handworks.com.  My main love is quilting but I always enjoy making a good pouch.  Zipper bags are fun to make whether you are a seasoned quilter or just started sewing. Is there really such a thing as too many bags?  Never.

          I love how the Mini Charms make it easy to put together a scrappy look. I’ve taken some of my favorite pouch options and combined them into a quilted zipper bag.
          Gather up your materials.


          1 Mini Charm Pack – Sunnyside by Kate Spain
          1 Coordinating Fat Quarter
          11″ Zipper
          (2) 12 x 10 Pieces of Batting


          1/2″ D-Ring for Pull Tab
          Interfacing for lining fabric

          PIECING

          Break open those Mini Charms.

          Choose 36 charms for your quilted exterior, 2 for your zipper stops and 2 for your pull tab.

          Lay out the exterior charms. Notice there are no charms on the bottom corners. 

           When piecing little charms for patchwork I like to chain sew. Use a 1/4″ seam for piecing.

          Don’t iron quite yet – wait until you have strip sets (rows of charms) in place.

          When have your strip sets sewn together, iron the seams with each row going opposite directions.

          This makes it easy for lining up the rows. You won’t even need to pin!  The way you’ve ironed the seams helps lock them together for sewing.

          If you feel more comfortable pinning, go for it.  I’m okay using this method for smaller projects that are easier to handle.

          Now you should have 2 pieced panels similar to this.

          PULL TAB

          Make the pull tab by taking 2 of the charms we put aside and sew them together, ironing the seam open.  

          Iron lengthwise to mark the center and open it up.   Now fold and iron the edges to the center iron line.

          Fold in half again and stitch down the edge of each side.

          Optional D-Ring:  Fold your tab in half and stitch the ring in place.

          FABRIC STOPS

          Take 2 more of the charms we pulled aside. These will be used as fabric stops for the zipper.

          Fold in half, iron and open.  Fold and iron a generous 1/4″.

          QUILTING

          Layer your batting under your fabric panel.

          The quilting design is up to you!  I stitched straight, diagonal lines through the middle of each charm.

          If you do a lot of straight line quilting, chalk markers will line right against your ruler. Makes it kind of nice.

          Trim the batting, be careful not to cut any of the charms.

          I don’t place fabric on the underside and I’ve never had a problem without it.  You can use muslin or scrap fabric if you want, but this will all be hidden.

          Cut two 8.5″ x 10.5″ rectangles from your fat quarter. This will be your lining.

          Optional Interfacing: Iron the interfacing to your fabric.  I like using interfacing because it provides extra stability.

          Trim your lining and cut a 2″ square from the bottom corners so they resemble the shape of the quilted panels.

          ASSEMBLY

          You should have something like this:

          Take a fabric zipper stop and fold it over the edge of the zipper end.  Sew along the folded edge of the stop to attach.

          Open the little tab and cut the zipper down to 1/4″ seam. This removes extra material so the corners aren’t so bulky.

          Attach the other fabric zipper stop – leaving 8″ between the two stops.  Trim the extra zipper material from the inside of that stop as well.

          Layer:
          Quilted exterior right side up
          Zipper facing down
               (center the fabric stops so the same amount of fabric sticks out on the right and left)
          Lining right side down

          Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge of the exterior-zipper-lining sandwich.

          Fold the sewn layers off to one side and layer:

          Quilted exterior right side up
          Zipper facing down
               (the first set of fabrics should be folded down with the other fabrics and out of the way)
          Lining right side down

          Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge.

          Fold each side open. A lining and quilted panel should be wrong sides together on each side.

          Top stitch along each side of the zipper and trim the extra fabric off the zipper stops.

          Fold the two lining fabrics together – right sides facing.

          Fold the two quilted panels together – right sides facing.

          Place the pull tab on the inside where the zipper pull will be when the pouch is closed.  If the pull tab is too long for your liking, trim a 1/2″ off first.

          Make sure your zipper is OPEN!

          Line up the top stitching from the two quilted panels and pin in place on each side. This keep your sides lined up. 

          Sew using a 1/2″ seam down the sides like the image below.  Don’t sew the corners. Remember to leave a turning hole!

          Once the sides are sewn, separate a corner and fold the seams together.  Sew using 1/2″ seam.

          Repeat for all corners and you should have something that resembles this.

          See that little hole we left in the lining?  Stick your hand in there and start pulling the bag right side out.

          This is why we left that zipper open!

          Sew your lining hole closed. This is a good spot to sew in a label.

          Stuff the lining down inside the pouch and poke out the corners of the bag and the zipper.

          Don’t use anything sharp or you’ll stab right through your fabric creating an ugly little hole.  I may or may not have done this before. And I may or may not have done it more than once.

           


          One Awesome Quilted Patchwork Pouch

          Ta-da!  Your pouch is complete. 
          If you make a patchwork pouch I’d love to see it!
          Julie Hirt