Peanut Butter and Kelli Quilt

Hey, it’s Kelli here from Jo’s Country Junction. My youngest sister Kalissa and I have always been close. When she was little, her nickname was Peanut as compared to all of us other kids, she was a peanut. Her nickname Peanut eventually evolved into Peanut Butter. Because I was (and still am) her favorite sibling, we used to change the words of our favorite Barney song, Peanut Butter and Jelly, to Peanut Butter and Kelli. After we completed this quilt, Kalissa expressed her love of it. Because we used the Moda fabric line PB & J, we decided to name the quilt Peanut Butter and Kelli.

Stop over to our blog for a chance to win a jelly roll after you’re done reading the tutorial.
Follow along and you can make your own.
You’ll need a fat quarter bundle and some yardage.

1 fat quarter bundle PB & J

4 yards neutral print (We used ½ yard of each of the 8 neutral prints)

1 yard neutral (border)

1 yard dark print (binding)

2.5 yards dark solid (borders, block outline)

8 yards for backing

From each of 32 colored fat quarters, cut the following:

-1- 3.75” x 21” strip (stars)

-2- 3” x 21” strips (sashing)

-2- 1.75” x 21” strips (sashing, pieced border)

From each of 8 lighter fat quarters, cut the following:

-3- 3.75” strips (stars)

From neutral border cut 10- 3”strips

From binding fabric, cut 10- 2.5” strips

From dark solid, cut the following:

-27- 1.5” strips (star outline)

-6- 1.75” strips (pieced border)

-10- 3” strips (border)

Making Star Blocks:

From 32- 3.75” colored strips, cut 1- 5” rectangle and 2- 3.75” squares. A total of 32- 5” rectangles and 64- 3.75” squares.

From 24- 3.75” lighter strips, cut 8 (1 of each print) into 4- 5” segments from each to yield a total on 24- 5” segments. Using the remaining 16- 3.75” neutral strips, cut a total of 64- 3.75” squares.

1. Pair 1 colored 5” segment with 1 neutral 5” segment. With right sides together, use an easy angle ruler to cut 2 half square triangles. Sew together using a ¼ inch seam. Press to the colored print. Continue with all of hte 5″ segments. It you haven’t used an Easy Angle ruler before, here’s a great tutorial Bonnie Hunter did showing you how.

2. Assemble star by first sewing the dark square together into a four patch.

-Then sew the half square triangles together as shown.

-Sew two to the side of the four patch.

-Sew a light colored square to each end of the remaining start points.

-Then sew the final strip to the outside.

Outlining the Star:

3. Using 11 of the 1.5” dark solid strips, cut a total of 32- 1.5” x 13.5” strips (3 from each strip). Sew to opposite sides of each star block. Press to the dark “frame.”

4. Using the remaining 16 strips, cut 32- 1.5” x 15.5” rectangles. Sew to opposite sides of the star. Press to the dark “frame.”

Making the Sashing Blocks:

5. From each neutral ½ yard cut, cut a total of 3- 3” strips. Cut each in half (approximate) to yield a total of 24- 3” x approximately 21” strips.

6. With right sides together, pair 1 colored 3” x 21” strip with 1 neutral 3” x 21” strip.

7. Using your easy angle ruler, cut a total of 10 half square triangles from each set. Sew using a 1/4 “ seam. Press to the colored half. Make a total of 448 half square triangles.

8. Using the colored 1.75” strips, cut a total of 576- 1.75” squares (448 for sashing blocks, 128 for pieced border).

9. With right sides together, place a colored 1.75” square in the neutral half of the half square triangle. Sew diagonally from corner to corner. Trim excess fabric and press to the colored square. Repeat for each of the 448 sashing blocks.

10. Sew the newly created units together as shown creating 16 blocks.

11. Sew the blocks together in a 4 x 4 setting as shown.

Making the Pieced Borders:

12. Subcut the 6- 1.75” strips into 64- 1.75” x 3” rectangles.

13. Following the diagram below, using the remaining 128- 1.75” squares, place a colored square on one end of the dark rectangle with right sides together. Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the colored square. Trim excess and press to the colored square.

14. Repeat on opposite end. Continue making 64 pieced border blocks.

15. Using the remaining 1.75” colored strips and the remaining 1.75” dark strip, create 4- 1.75” half square triangles using your easy angle ruler. Press to the dark.

16. Sew 16 of the newly created border pieces together. Make four sets of these border units. Add a half square triangle to both ends of two of the strips.

17. Add newly created border as shown.

18. Next add the neutral, then dark borders.

19. Quilt and bind using 2.5” binding strips.

Come on over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see how mom quilted our version.

Finished Quilt Size—93” x 93”

Jo Kramer
{www.joscountryjunction.com}

Bitty Bunting Quilt

Aug22

Everyone loves a bunting quilt! I was inspired to make this quilt from the trimmings of another quilt. I was using a pattern that calls for dog ear corners from 2½” squares. The resulting triangles looked like pretty bunting flags to me (considering that the fabric was Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade, any excuse to not throw out even tiny scraps, right?) I kept them in a bin on my cutting table for a few days and the idea of using Moda Candy for tiny bunting flags popped into my head.

Moda Candy are perfect for this quilt since folding them in half allows you to create two-sided flags that look very cute waving about. There are lots of ways to attach the flags – use bias tape like I have or sew them all down first and add ric rac trim. I’ve also made bunting quilts with Perle cotton stitches standing in for the bias tape. Use what you have on hand. There is really no wrong way.

If you want to use a solid background instead of piecing the ombré background, simply start with a 1½ yard cut. I’ve also included a girly color option below.

Bunting:
43 Moda Candy pieces* (equivalent to 1 packages plus 1 more. I used a mix of Lucy’s Crab Shack, PB&J, and Oh Deer!)
4 yd of ¼” double-fold bias tape in coordinating color
Background:
¼ yd dark blue (Royal | Bella Solid 9900-19)
¼ yd cobalt blue (Bright Sky | Bella Solid 9900-115)
¼ yd bright blue (Capri | Bella Solid 9900-225)
¼ yd gray blue (Glacier | Bella Solid 9900-207)
¼ yd light blue (Blue Raspberry | Bella Solid 9900-84)
¼ yd white (White Bleached | Bella Solid 9900-98)

Binding: 3/8 yd preferred print (I used Silver | 9900-183)

Backing: 3¼ yd (I used bits of leftover blues and Lush Uptown | 26047-22)

*NOTE: You may use more or fewer pieces of Moda Candy, depending on how you swag your bunting across the quilt.

1. Piece ¼ yd strips from light to dark to create ombré background. Trim the selvedges before you sew or leave them on and trim all of them at once like I did. Press each seam from light to dark.

2. Layer up with your backing fabric and batting and quilt.

3. Square up quilted background and set aside.

4. Time to sew the bitty bunting! Set your stack of Moda Candy next to your sewing machine. Fold the first Candy square diagonally from corner to corner to create a triangle. Press or pin to make it easier to sew.

Top stitch around the sides of the triangle. You can chain piece but be careful not to stitch your Candy pieces together.

5. Place one bunting triangle between your bias tape with the fold facing away from the triangle point. Top stitch along the opposite edge of the bias tape to close the seam.

6. Pin bitty bunting to quilted background so that it drapes from edge to edge.

7. You can attach your bunting by top stitching long fold of the bias tape OR use an invisible stitch to tack it down (that’s what I did).

8. Trim any loose threads and bind as desired.

A simple, sweet, and modern baby gift! Measures approximately 43″ x 51″.

Lisa Calle
{www.vintagemodernquilts.com}

Picnic In The Shade Quilt

May7

Hello, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I am so pleased to be back on the Moda Bake Shop with this latest project. Picnic In The Shade has now become one of my favorite quilts. I absolutely adore the PB&J line from Basic Grey (it’s not only pretty on the eyes, it feels amazing as well!) The names and colors of the fabrics in this line are just too cute (Raspberry Jam, Bag of Chips, Fluffer Nutter, etc.) My absolute favorite fabric from this line is the beautiful floral called Daisy Mae, it is gorgeous in every colorway. So whether you decide to picnic on this quilt or put it on your bed, I hope you enjoy my latest design.

16 fat quarters (PB&J fat quarter bundle)
3 1/2 yards background fabric (PB&J Grunge – Picnic)
3/4 yard inner border fabric (PB&J Raspberry Jam – Fluffer Nutter)
1 1/2 yards outer border fabric (PB&J Bag of Chips – Tonal Picnic)
6 yards backing fabric (PB&J Daisy Mae – Picnic)

Block Cutting Instructions:
Select 16 fat quarters and from each one cut the following:

5 – 5 1/2″ squares
8 – 3 1/2″ squares

From background fabric cut the following:

80 – 5 1/2″ squares
128 – 3 1/2″ squares

Border cutting instructions:
Inner border – cut 8 strips 2 1/2″ by WOF
Outer border – cut 8 strips 5″ by WOF (Depending on the width of your fabric selection, you may need to cut 9 strips. I was able to *JUST* make two strips pieced together work on each of the long sides of the quilt.)

Piecing Instructions:
Pair a background 5 1/2″ square with a print 5 1/2″ square (right sides together) and sew 1/4″ all the way around the squares as shown below.

Now you have 2 squares completely sewn together. Line up your ruler on the diagonal from the top left corner to the bottom right corner and cut as shown below.

Without moving the fabric, line your ruler up diagonally from the top right to the bottom left corners and cut as shown.

Now you will have four separate “triangles”.

Open each of them up and press towards the background fabric to create four half square triangles (HST).

Repeat this step for all 80 5 1/2″ square sets. This will result in a total of 320 half square triangles.

Now you need to square up and trim your half square triangles. Using a small ruler, line up the 45 degree line with the diagonal line in your HST. And trim/square up to be 3 1/2″. Using this HST method, I almost always only had to trim off the dog ears from the seams, but you should check them all just to make sure they aren’t off before piecing them into the blocks.

Block layout:

Block A – Using the photo below as a guide, create 2 A blocks (per print fabric) using 8 trimmed 3 1/2″ HST, 8 print 3 1/2″ squares and 2 background 3 1/2″ squares. You will have a total of 32 A blocks.

Piece each block row and press the seams towards the solid print squares. Then sew the rows together and press toward the center row as shown below.

Block B – Using the photo below as a guide, create 2 B blocks (per print fabric) using 12 trimmed 3 1/2″ HST and 6 background 3 1/2″ squares. You will have a total of 32 B blocks.

Piece each block row and press the seams in opposite directions with each row. Then sew the rows together and press away from the center row as shown below.

Using 63 of your 64 blocks, lay them out in 9 rows of 7 blocks each, alternating between Block A and Block B as shown below.

Sew each row together pressing the seams in the odd numbered rows toward the right and the even numbered rows toward the left. When sewing your rows together, you can either press all seams up, down or open depending on your preference.

Border Instructions:

To determine the length of your side borders, measure the quilt from top to bottom in three locations (right side, midpoint and left side). If they are not all the same measurement, then add those numbers together and divide by three to determine the appropriate length for your inner side border. Using two 2 1/2″ strips of the inner border fabric, piece them together end to end and then trim to match the measurement you determined above. Do this two times to create your two inner borders and attach them to the right and left sides of the quilt.
Once you have pieced the inner side borders onto the quilt top, repeat the measuring instructions above to determine the appropriate measurements of the top and bottom borders (across the width of the quilt). Once again, use two 2 1/2″ strips of inner border fabric sewn together end to end and then trimmed to the appropriate length per border. Sew the top and bottom inner borders to the quilt.
Following the same instructions as above to determine the new length of your outer border. Using the PB&J line, I only needed two 5″ strips pieced together per side border. Double check to make sure your fabric selection will be long enough. If not, then use the 9th strip you created in the cutting instructions above, cut in half and attach one to each side border pieced strip and then trim to the correct measurement.
Using the same method, piece and attach the top and bottom outer borders.

Backing Instructions:
Cut your backing fabric into two 3 yard pieces. Then sew them together along the selvage edge far enough into the fabric so that the selvage won’t be seen once pieced. You should end up with a pieced backing that measures approx. 84″ x 108″.

Layer your backing, batting and quilt top and quilt as desired.

One 75″ x 93″ quilt perfect for family picnics or your favorite bed.

Amanda Castor

{Material Girl Quilts}

Type Geek Pillows

Mar27

Hi there! It’s Casey from Casey York Design and Studioloblog.wordpress.com, and I’m back to share the pattern for my Type Geek pillows. I am a self-professed type geek, myself, so I couldn’t resist coming up with a project for Typography month on the Moda Bake Shop. These pillows are a perfect way to showcase your favorite fabric collections and fonts. I had so much fun matching typefaces to fabric lines that I couldn’t stop with just one pillow and ended up making three. You can find the templates for these three appliqued words in the Printer Friendly version of this tutorial at the bottom of this page. However, it’s easy to create your own templates, and this project is even more fun if you make up your own fabric-font pairings. I hope you have as much fun with this project as I did, and that you’ll share your finished pillows with me through the Casey York Quilts flickr group!

Front patchwork and back appliqué: one jelly roll (samples show PB&J, Comma, and 2wenty Thr3e)
Pillow back: (1) fat quarter or ¼ yd. solid white fabric (samples show Bella Solids in Porcelain)
Front Appliqué: (1) piece solid white fabric, 12” long X 3” wide
Lightweight, double-sided, paper backed fusible web: (1) 9” X 12” sheet
(1) 18” zipper

Please note: this pattern uses only (9) jelly roll strips, resulting in a lot of leftover fabric. You may want to plan another project to use the excess—I recommend one of the other wonderful tutorials here on the Moda Bake Shop!

Step 1: Make the pillow front:

Select nine strips from the jelly roll, trim to measure 18” long. Stitch along long sides to form a striped patchwork panel. Trim to measure 17 ½” X 17 ½.”

Tip: For maximum contrast, try to position a darker print or near solid as the second stripe from the bottom. This will ensure that your white appliqués show up well. Reserve the rest of this strip for the appliqués on the back of the pillow, which you will make in Step 2.

Step 2: Make the Appliqués

Print the template for the typeface of your choice—this tutorial features Helvetica, Rockwell, and Playbill. You will only need one template page per pillow. Templates can be found in the printer friendly version of this tutorial linked at the bottom of this page.

Tip: Make your own templates: Select a favorite font from your computer’s word processing program (bold san serif or slab serif fonts work best for this project). Type out the name of the typeface, then enlarge the character size until the letters are approximately 2” tall. This generally works out to be a type size of 180 to 210 pt., although this will differ from typeface to typeface. Print your template; for the pillow front appliqués, reverse the letters by turning the page over and tracing the outlines of the printed characters on the back. Use your templates to make fusible appliqués as follows.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, trace the templates onto the double-sided light fusible web. Cut out roughly, leaving a ¼” margin around your traced lines; you may want to cut out the entire word rather than cutting out each letter individually. Fuse the letters that appear reversed onto your white appliqué fabric. Fuse the letters that appear correctly oriented onto the wrong side of the jelly roll strip you reserved from Step 1, or a different strip that matches the second stripe from the bottom of your patchwork panel. Make sure to use a pressing cloth between your iron and fabric in order to avoid getting sticky residue on your sole plate.

Step 3: Place the Front Appliques:

Position your white fabric appliqués on the patchwork panel, aligning them with the bottom edge of the second stripe from the bottom. You will want to make sure that the last letter is at least 1 ½” from the right hand edge of the panel to leave room for the seam allowance.

Tip: Begin laying out your letters from the right-most letter and move left (i.e. backwards) towards the left side of the panel.

When you are satisfied with your layout, fuse the appliqués in place, again using a pressing cloth between fabric and iron. Stitch around the appliqués using your machine or by hand; the samples were stitched by hand using a blanket stitch and a single strand of six-stranded cotton embroidery floss.

Step 4: Make the Pillow back:

From the solid white fabric, cut two rectangles measuring 17 ½” wide X 8 ½” long and 17 ½” wide X 11 ½” long. Fold one long edge of the 17 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle back 1 inch and press well, creating a crease.

Install the zipper:

Make sure the zipper is zipped. Unfold the crease in the 17 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle and place with the crease facing up; this is the right side of your pillow back. Place zipper face-down along the 17 ½” edge closest to the crease and align long edge of zipper tape with edge of fabric; pin well. Your zipper will be slightly longer than your pillow back is wide; to create a new “stop”, simply stitch back and forth several times across the zipper teeth at the point where the zipper reaches the 8 ½” edge of the fabric. Use your machine’s zipper foot to stitch as close to the zipper teeth as possible. When you approach the zipper pull, lower the needle, raise your presser foot, and carefully unzip the zipper until the pull is behind your needle. Lower the presser foot and continue stitching to the end of the zipper.

Refold crease; stitch along fold as close as possible to the zipper, making sure not to catch the zipper tape in your stitching. This will create a placket to cover the zipper.

Unzip the zipper. Place the tape face down against a 17 ½” edge of the 17 ½” X 11 ½” rectangle and pin well. Stitch as close as possible to the zipper teeth. This time, when you reach the zipper pull, carefully zip the zipper until the zipper pull is behind your needle. Continue stitching to the end of the zipper. Zip the zipper, place pillow back right side up, and press well.

You should have a 17 ½” X 17 ½” square (if slightly larger, trim to measure 17 1/2″ X 17 1/2″). Baste along side edges to hold zipper together when you assemble the pillow cover.

Place the appliqués:

Place your pillow front right side up. Place the pillow back on top with the right side facing down, the zipper towards the top edge, and the edges aligned. You should be able to see your front appliqués through the white fabric of the pillow back. Use a removable fabric marker–I recommend a Hera Marker or other creasing tool–and your ruler to trace lines along the bottom and sides of the word on the front of the cover. These will be your guidelines for placing the appliqués on the back. Turn the pillow back right side up and use the guidelines to place your back appliqués; the letters should be backwards. When you are satisfied with your placement, use your iron to fuse them in place. Stitch around appliqués using your machine or by hand.

Tip: If you use a fabric marker or pencil to make your placement guidelines, make sure you remove your markings before you use your iron to fuse the appliques in place! This is why I prefer to use a creasing tool for this step–I don’t need to remove any markings before pressing.

Step 5: Assemble the Pillow Cover:

Place pillow front cover and back cover together, right sides together. Make sure the zipper is unzipped a few inches. Align edges and pin well. Stitch along edges with a ¼” seam allowance. If you wish, finish the edges with a zigzag stitch. Unzip zipper all the way and turn cover right side out. Insert an 18” X 18” pillow form and you’re done!

This pattern will yield one cover for an 18” X 18” pillow. I recommend making several—have fun matching typefaces to the character of different fabric collections!