Redbird and Berries Mini Quilt

Greetings Moda Bake Shop readers and Happy New Year!   It’s Karen from Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals Blog excited to share the “Redbird and Berries” mini-quilt with you!

Oh so luscious Mini Charms of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey were used for the border of this cute little wall hanging while scrumptious coordinating Grunge fabrics were used for the background and applique pieces.

The recipe includes a bit of piecing, applique, free motion and straight line quilting.  You’ll also learn to make Perfect Circle berries and bias stems.   I hope you find the variety intriguing because when you’re done the mini quilt will *Charm* all who see it!

Quilt Border:

  • 3 or 4 Mini Charm Packs of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey  (88 2.5″ fabric pieces)

Applique Background:

  • 14.5″ by 22.5″ Grunge Basics Cream (30150-160) by BasicGrey

Applique Pieces:

  • 1 Fat Quarter Grunge Basics Grey Couture (30150-163) by BasicGrey for Stems
  • Fat Eighth or Scraps of Grunge Basics Kissing Booth Cherry Cordial (30150-167) or Grunge Red (30150-151) by BasicGrey for Bird and/or Berries
  • Scraps of Black and Reddish Orange Fabric for Bird Mask and Beak – I used Moda Black and Grunge Radish


  • 27″ by 35″ piece of fabric for backing
  • 27″ by 35″ batting
  • 1/4 yard of  fabric for binding
  • Perfect Circles or heat resistant template plastic or thin cardboard for berries
  • Freezer Paper or Template Plastic for making applique templates
  • Clover Bias Tape Maker – Size 6 (1/4″) for tree stems
  • Spray Starch or Sizing for Berries
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2325 for Piecing and Border Quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2000 Quilting Background
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2460 for Red Applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2605 for Gray Stem Applique 

Pre-cut Basics:  

Before working with Mini Charms it’s helpful to run a lint brush over the edges.  This will reduce the amount of “little fuzzies” adorning your workspace 😉

Also, when working with any of the Moda Pre-cut fabrics always treat the outer most tip of the pinking as the edge.  This is especially important when piecing – the accuracy of your piecing depends on it.

For the piecing on this project you’ll need to know exactly where your 1/4 seam mark is on your sewing foot.  The walking foot below is clearly marked — I LOVE using it for accurate piecing.  

Measuring Seam Allowance Accuracy:

A great way to test the accuracy of a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance is by sewing three mini charms together.  Press to set the seams, press the seams to one side, flip over and measure. The middle charm should measure exactly 2 inches wide.  If not, adjust your seam allowance until it does.

Now lets get started with our recipe:

Step 1:  Layout/Design the border:

Layout your mini charms in a manner which is pleasing to YOUR eye.  Each quadrant of the border will be 11 charms high by 2 charms wide for a total of 22 charms in each of the 4 quadrants.   The complete border will use 88 charms.

I’m one of those CRAZY symmetrical types so a scrappy layout wasn’t in the cards for me.  Instead I designed one quadrant at a time, alternating light and dark pieces and making the opposite quadrant a diagonal mirror image.  Checkout the picture below.  I love the checkerboard effect!

To duplicate the layout above you will need 4 Mini Charms packs.  If you would rather go scrappy or change the layout you can get away with using 2 Mini Charm packs and cutting 4 mini charm pieces from one of your grunge fabrics 😉  Overall you’ll need 88 2.5″ square pieces of fabric for the border.

Step 2:  Sew a Border Quadrant (for each of the 4 quadrants):

Once you’ve finalized your border layout/design, pick one quadrant and sew the pairs together – chain stitching all 11 pair of your light/dark fabric.  Chain piecing allows you to quickly sew the 11 pair without cutting your thread.  Once you’ve chain stitched the 11 pair are all attached in the correct order.

When finished chain piecing 11 pair of a quadrant, remove them from your machine and lay them (still connected to one another) on your ironing space with the darker fabrics facing up.  This allows you to “set” your seam by pressing them flat, and then pressing again in the desired direction – in this case it’s best to press toward the dark fabric.

On a checkerboard layout, pressing toward the dark will enable you to nest your seams when you sew your pairs into 4 x 2 and then into 8 x 2’s and so on.  Nesting your seams allows for more accurate intersections.

Clip the threads attached to the first 2 pair and prepare to sew 2 – 2×2’s into a 4 patch.
Nest the seams for accurate alignment, pin and sew.  Repeat this effort until you’ve created an 11 x 2 quadrant of your border.

If you are following a light/dark arrangement (checkerboard) with a pattern to your layout (like I did), I suggest stopping and spot checking your order as you sew ; )  I ALWAYS take a picture of the layout before beginning to sew.  Use the picture to be sure you are sewing your pairs and your 11×2 sections together in the desired arrangement.

Once you have a quadrant that is 11 long by 2 wide,  press to set the seams, and then press all the seams of a quadrant in the same direction.  For ease of attaching to the background fabric you can press this way:

  • right side border should be pressed downward
  • left side border pressed upward
  • bottom border pressed to the left
  • top border pressed to the right.  

Each of the 4 quadrants should measure 22.5 inches long and 4.5 inches wide.

Once all 4 quadrants are prepared, it’s time to put it all together!

Step 3: Cut background fabric and attach borders:

Using Grunge Cream cut a piece of background fabric 14.5″ by 22.5″.

Attach the side borders to the background fabric first, press to set the seams, then press the seams toward the border.

Next attach the top and bottom borders, setting the seams and pressing them toward the border.  You only have two seams to match on this border — so simple 😉

Woohoo!  Now your top is ready for the applique. The top should measure 22.5 inches wide by 30.5 inches long.


The applique on the sample was completed by hand, but you can use your favorite applique method to complete yours.  The stems, berries and bird can be done with two sided fusible, raw edge machine applique, or any other applique method.  The sample was completed with bias stems, perfect circle berries, and a needle turn applique Redbird.  You can learn more about Needle Turn applique by visiting the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Prep 1 – Prepare Strips for Bias Stems:

You will need 10 or so 1/2 inch bias strips of Grunge Gray Couture.  If you’ve never made a bias strip before, don’t worry — just follow these simple steps:

  • Start with a fat quarter of Grunge Grey Couture
  • Iron your fabric – cut a straight edge if there isn’t one already.
  • Most rotary rulers include a 45 degree angle mark on them – find it on your ruler.
  • Lay the 45 degree angle mark on the selvage edge of your fabric.  This will align the cut edge of your ruler on a 45 degree angle. 
  •  Use a rotary cutter and cut a straight edge on the bias (the diagonal above).
  • Gently slide your ruler over to the 1/2″ mark (with the 45 degree line still on the selvage) and cut a 1/2 inch strip.
  • Repeat this process until you have 10 or more 1/2″ strips cut on the bias.

Note: Use Caution when handling the strips — when fabric is cut on the bias it will easily stretch.

Applique Prep 2 – Make Bias Stems:

  • Using the Clover #6 – 1/4″ Bias Tape Maker (BTM) feed one end of your 1/2″ bias strip through the wide end of the BTM with fabric right side up.  Use a pin to advance the fabric through the BTM to the narrow end if necessary.  Leave about 1/2″ of the strip showing on the narrow end.
  • Position your iron so the side of the iron is against the narrow end of the BTM.
  • Note: The BTM instructions say to move the tool with the hand that is not ironing — but I prefer to use the iron to move the tool.
  • The iron should be set on a “Cotton” heat with steam and a fair amount of pressure should be applied as you glide the iron over the fabric to make the bias stem.  Once you start pressing to the left  – keep going – don’t stop mid strip. 
  • Some would suggest you use a light starch on the fabric before beginning to make the tape — feel free to do so – it makes the bias tape hold its shape. 

Completed bias stems:

Applique Prep 3 – Make Berries:

Using Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Circles templates choose the 1/2 inch diameter template.  If you don’t own Perfect Circles, use the heavy piece of cardboard that backed your Mini Charm pack to cut a template.  

  • Cut 65-75 1″ circles for berries — I used a variety of fabrics, including Red Grunge, Moda Marbles and some of the extra Little Black Dress mini charms. Use a US Quarter coin to cut 1″ circles if necessary.
  • Once the 1 inch circles are cut , hand sew a running stitch around the perimeter of the fabric circles – leaving approximately a 6″ tail of thread attached to the fabric circle. Do not knot the thread after you’ve finished the running stitch.
  • Place a Perfect Circle template in the center of the fabric.  
  • Pull the thread taut around the Perfect Circle, drawing the fabric tight around the template.
  • Place the unit right side down on the ironing surface, spray a bit of starch or sizing on the back side of the drawn fabric and place a medium heat, dry iron on the piece(s) until the berry is completely dry (a minute or two depending on how much spray starch you use).
  • Remove the iron, allow the berry and template to cool, then peel the edge of the fabric back to  remove the  template.  
  • Reshape the circle by pulling the thread taut again and press once more to set the circle.

A collection of berries: The sample contained about 75 berries and included some berries made from the leftover Little Black Dress 2 mini-charms (not shown below).

Applique Step 4  – Layout and Attach Stems to Background:

Layout stems in a manner which is pleasing to your eye.  If you would like your completed work to look like the sample, use the “Final Applique Layout” picture (below) to arrange the stems and berries.

I use pins to secure the applique stems to the background prior to stitching.  This method allows the stem to float for re-arranging.  You can also baste or glue baste the stems in place for stitching.

Once arranged, use an invisible stitch (similar to the stitch used for needle turn applique) to attach the stems to the background.   You can see more about applique stitch here.

A couple of tips when working with stems:

  • When stems are made on the bias they are very flexible – so they curve easily.  Just pin or glue or baste in the position you like.
  • To hide a raw edge tip of a stem fold the end under once and secure when you sew the stem.
  • Create a fork in your stems by tucking the end of a stem under another section of stem or by folding a long piece of stem in two.
  • You don’t need stems that are so long they are unmanageable.  Just put one stem end against the other and sew — place a berry on it to cover the intersection if you like. 

Attach your stems to the background fabric by hand or machine.  Again, you can learn more about needle turn applique on the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Step 5 – Layout and Attach Berries and Bird:

Berries or Redbird first?  The choice is yours.  I did a few berries and then the Redbird and finished up with Berries.

Arrange and pin some berries in place.  I limited the number pinned at one time so my threads were not getting caught on the applique pins. 

Stitch the berries by hand or machine.  If stitching by hand use the same “invisible” stitch used on the stems and used for most needle turn applique.

Applique  – Prepare and Applique the Redbird:

Note: The Redbird applique template can be found in the “Printer Friendly” version of this recipe.

In the sample, Needle Turn applique was used for the Redbird, his mask, and beak – but any method can be used to complete this step.  I won’t go into Needle Turn Applique techniques here but please visit my blog and/or leave me questions below if you run into trouble completing the bird.  I do have pictures of each applique step and would be happy to share them on my blog if it would be helpful.  Please let me know.

Normally, to prepare applique shapes, I would print the applique templates directly onto the dull side of a piece of freezer paper; however, for this recipe I decided to use template plastic so I could fussy cut the Redbird from the beautiful Grunge fabric. If you’re using turned applique, trace the bird onto the fabric with any of the marking tools identified here and cut out with an 1/8″ plus seam allowance.

Did I mention how much I LOVE Grunge?  – OR – how well it goes with the Little Black Dress 2 fabric line?   It really is a beautiful line of fabric.  No kidding!!

Next applique the bird to the background.  Stitch the body first, then the mask, and lastly the beak.

If you haven’t done so already, finish attaching all of your beautiful berries to the background. Each berry adds dimension to the overall design.  I didn’t fret much about making my berries perfect – because in real life they are not.  The sample berries were stitched by hand.

Final Applique Layout:

Note: Often when you applique a quilt top, the overall dimension gets smaller.  The applique stitching tends to pull in the sides of a quilt top.  No need for concern — the quilting will probably shrink it more!

Prepare for Quilting:

If you are unfamiliar with the steps necessary to prepare a top for quilting, there are detailed instructions specified in the Family Tree Pillow Recipe here.

For the sample I used two layers of batting to provide both loft and stability.  One layer of 100% Wool Batting and one Layer of Warm and Natural Cotton batting.

I also pieced the back for this particular quilt.  The backing measured 27″ x 35″.

I started quilting by straight line stitching around the perimeter of the background fabric and again around the perimeter of the first rows of charms.  I almost always “stitch in the ditch” to stabilize the quilt before starting to Free Motion Quilt.

For the background quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50 Wt Cotton in Color #2000.  This thread glides through my Janome and I never get thread breaks.  The color matches the Grunge Creme perfectly!

Always be sure to match your top and bobbin threads when Free Motion Quilting.  So we are now echo quilting around each applique piece (removing pins as necessary).  Once done repeat the echo quilting around all applique and stems.  In hindsight I wish I had echo quilted one more time before starting my background quilting.  As you can see below, I quilted in some mock berries to add interest.

To complete the background quilting I used a “McTavishing” like design – a variety described as “Nifty Little S’s” shared by Wendy Sheppard of Ivory Spring Blog. This design is so forgiving and allows you to move around the applique pieces with ease.

Once the background quilting was completed I added some straight line quilting (with a walking foot) on the mini-charms.  I used a walking foot as a width guide and quilted every 1/2 inch around the perimeter of the background.  The straight line stitching shows up best on the back of the quilt.  For this quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50Wt Cotton in Color #2325.  Again, I just love the way the Aurifil quilts – I couldn’t be happier with this thread!

Below is another picture that shows the pretty straight line quilting on the charms.

When finished quilting, the sample “squared” to 21.5″ wide by 29.5″ long.  The applique and dense quilting ate up 1 inch each of the width and length.

The next step is to prepare hanging sleeves and binding as desired.  There is a great Moda Basics Tutorial for Binding here.

The sample binding was completed using a 2.25″ wide binding (folded) and a 3/8″ seam allowance to sew it on the front and hand stitch it to the back.  I also added two hanging sleeves (either side of the middle) using two 5.5″ by 8.5 inch pieces of fabric.

If you’ve made it to this point of the tutorial congratulations!   I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about bias stems, Perfect Circles, applique and some free motion quilting.

Working with these methods opens a new door to the world of quilting doesn’t it ?    It’s sew much fun!

One 21.5″ x 29.5″ Wall Hanging or Table Topper or Mini Quilt.

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Please be sure to swing by my blog and check out my tutorials, lessons learned and completed projects.   I would love to have you join the fun and give me feedback on this recipe.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller

Mason Jar Tea Cozy

Mason Jar Tea Cozy

I can never get enough tea in the winter, and love to use quart-sized mason jars to fuel my addiction.  These jars are designed for canning, so adding boiling water is perfectly safe! This tea cozy insulates the jar (and protects your hands!) nicely, and it is also great in the summer for keeping your drink cold and preventing your glass from sweating.

Extra bonus – screw the lid on for a handy, spill-proof travel mug. Double-extra bonus – it’s perfect to make with scraps if you don’t have Charm squares handy!

These make a great holiday gift, especially paired with a box of your favorite tea! I’ve got a few more simple holiday gift ideas coming up soon at my blog at

8 Charm squares – or an equivalent measure of scraps
Two pieces of batting measuring 14″ x 6″ and 5” square.

Extra fabric for optional accents

Assemble the sides – finished sides should measure 13×5. Gather your fabric and batting:
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

  • Sew together three charms and trim down to 13×5 inches. 

Optional: OR, you can piece the fabric as desired, as long as the end product is 13×5. If adding applique or other fabric design, do so at this stage.

  • Layer outside fabric with quilt batting and sew layers together, quilting as desired. I did a quick wonky checkmark pattern, but this is a great place to try something new. (Note: You can pin before sewing, but I find ironing the layers together makes them hold quite nicely in a project this small.)
  • Trim off any extra batting.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

  • Sew the short ends of the outside fabric (right sides together) to form a loop. Use a generous quarter inch seam (as opposed to a scant quarter inch).
  •  Repeat with the inside fabric to create a 13×5 piece of fabric sewn with the ends sewn together to form a loop (right sides together).
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

Assemble the bottom:
  • Cut out two 4″ circles from charms and one circle from your batting. I trace a four inch embroidery hoop for this step.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

  • Fold circles in half twice and iron to create folded lines as shown below (top right) – with the crease lines marking four equal quarters.
  • Layer your outside bottom circle with the batting as shown below (bottom right).
  • Now take the side pieces from the previous step, and fold these in half twice; iron to create four fold lines – marking four equal quarters.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

  • Next, line up your four fold lines on your bottom circle and your side piece (right sides together). Pin where fold lines meet.
Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for 
  • After I have my fold lines pinned together, I add a lot more pins! 

Note: In the outside layer, which has a layer of batting in the bottom circle, take care when pinning to make sure you are catching both the fabric layers and the batting layer together.

    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

    • Everything pinned? Sew the bottom layer to the sides, pulling the pins out as you go. This is the trickiest part. But you’re almost done!
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for 

    Put it all together:

    • Turn the inside piece right side out.  Tuck this inside piece into the outer layer, so that right sides are together and the batting is on the outside. Pin along the top  at the fold lines.
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for
    • Sew along the top of the two pieces, using a quarter inch seam allowance. But wait! BE SURE to leave a two inch gap unsewn:
    • Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for
    • Now reach in there to pull your piece right side out through the two inch gap you left unsewn at the top. You’re almost there!
    Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

    • Tuck the inner lining in. I usually iron the top for a nicer finish, folding in the unsewn seams.
    • Topstitch around the outer edge to finish.

    Optional: Attach a cute vintage button to hang your teabag from so it doesn’t get lost in your mason jar!

      Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

      Make it your own! 

      You can add binding around the top – just like a quilt! One the cozy below on the right, I used Aneela Hoey’s Sew Stitchy Spools, and added a fat binding using standard quilting methods to the top.

      One Mason Jar Tea Cozy
      Mason Jar Tea Cozy Tutorial by WaterPenny for

      Let me know if you have any questions! I’d love to see your own spin on the cozy mason jar cover!
      Happy Sewing! 
      Dana Kuhnline

      Sweet Silhouettes Wall Hanging & Pillow Covers

      I’m April Rosenthal from Prairie Grass Patterns, and I’m so excited to show you my first recipe for the Moda Bake Shop–it’s a room makeover! With a few throw pillow slipcovers and a sweet wall hanging, you’ll want to make a set for each season and holiday. For even more versatility, make each piece double-sided.

      (Psst! These slipcovers fit 20″ square throw pillows just right, but would also work great with an 18″ pillow.)

      (1)  Hideaway Fat Quarter Bundle (you will use 16)
      40 x 46 Batting
      1⅓ yards Heat ‘n Bond lite (for applique)
      1⅓ yard red gingham (backing & binding)
      Applique templates included in PDF

      Choosing your fabrics:

      The biggest thing to remember when making this recipe is contrast. You’ll want each applique shape to stand out as much as possible, so you’ll need to do a bit of color planning. I chose to use all the red, white, and aqua fat quarters from my Hideaway bundle, which left me just enough yellow and green fat quarters to make another batch of this recipe for early spring!

      Choose 2 white and 2 aqua non-directional fat quarters for your wall hanging backgrounds. Then, choose 2 red, one white, and one aqua fat quarter for the applique shapes.

      Now, choose 4 fat quarters as the fronts of your pillow slipcovers. This would be a good place for a larger overall print, or directional prints. The applique shapes for your pillow covers will come from the aqua and white fat quarters you chose above. Also choose 4 more for the backs of your pillows.

      Making the Wall Hanging:

      Using the 4 fat quarters you chose for your wall hanging background, trim each piece to 16″x21″ (be sure to remove the selvage first!). Set aside.

      Next, trace the applique shapes onto your Heat ‘n Bond. The inner and outer lines will be traced together, and will form the cut lines for your applique outline, and your pillow shapes. The middle line (dotted) will be traced separately and will be the cut line for your inner shape on your wall hanging. (In the pictures you will not see inner and outer cut lines, I freehanded it. After doing that, I thought you’d be happier if I added the inner and outer lines for reference.) Since the applique shapes are a little larger than a regular piece of paper, you’ll have to piece them together.

      Cut the shapes apart individually, leaving room around each shape. Do not cut on the lines. Following the instructions on your Heat ‘n Bond package, adhere each shape to the appropriate fat quarter. My shapes were ironed-on as follows:

      • Single outline ice skate and snowflake: Red fat quarter #1
      • Single outline snow cap and mug: Red fat quarter #2
      • Double outline ice skate and snowflake: Aqua fat quarter
      • Double outline snow cap and mug: White fat quarter

      Cut out each shape on the lines, making sure not to cut into any of the shapes. On the double outlines, you will need to cut the inner line by folding the fabric, and cutting a small snip along the line, just large enough to get your scissors into, then cutting out. Same for the inside shapes, like the inside of the mug handle & the cutouts in the ice skate blade. You’ll need all these pieces later, so don’t ruin them! Set aside the inner shapes to use on your pillow covers.

      Iron the single outline shapes to your background pieces, centered. Then, iron your contrasting outline piece on top, being sure to include any small detail pieces, like on the ice skate above. Your outline should cover all raw edges on the shape underneath.

      Stitch around each shape. I used a large zig zag with matching thread (to emphasize the contrasts) for mine, but a blanket stitch or other decorative stitch will work well also. I do not suggest using contrasting thread, as it blurs the contrast between your applique shapes and colors.
      When all pieces are stitched on, press from the backside and square up if needed. Make sure each piece still measures the same size.
      Assemble a 4-patch “block” out of your 4 appliqued rectangles, placing your shapes as shown. Pay attention to which way your shapes are facing so that they end up right side up. First, place top two squares right sides together with the right piece on top, pin, and stitch down the right side. Press to the right. 
      Repeat for the bottom 2 squares, press to the left. Then, place top and bottom pieces right sides together, pin and stitch.
      Open the newly stitched seam and press to one side. 
      Now comes the fun part (and the reason I told you not to use directional fabric for your backgrounds). Measure 2″ from the vertical middle seam, cut. Repeat on other side of seam. 
      Fold the middle piece at the seam, sew the opposite side together, and unpick the original seam. Open the newly stitched seam and press left and right in opposite directions, as shown below, reattach to both sides repressing seams on side pieces all one direction, ignoring the center seam.
      Now, cut 2″ from each side of the horizontal middle seam, and 2″ from the top and bottom. Trade places with the bottom and top sections (see picture below). Reattach, re-pressing seams as necessary. Press toward border.
      Now, cut 2″ from left and right sides. Rotate each piece 180 degrees. Reattach. Press toward border.
      Back, quilt, and bind however you would like!

      The Pillows

      Using the (8) fat quarters you set aside for pillows, trim all so that they measure the exact same size, leaving selvage intact. Using method described above, attach the inner applique shapes to your pillow fronts, slightly offset as shown below.

      Machine stitch around each applique shape to secure.

      Now, putting right sides together, and matching up selvage edges, sew around 3 sides leaving selvage edge open. Zig zag around raw edge if desired.

      Using your fat quarter scraps from the applique cut outs, cut (6) 8″x2½” pieces for each pillow, for the ties.

      Fold lengthwise from edges in toward middle, press. 
      Fold bottom up 1/4.” 
      Fold in half lengthwise again. Press, then stitch as close to the edge as you can down both sides.

      Fold the selvage edge in 1½”, pin in place. Then, lining up the ties directly across from each other (3 on front, 3 on back), pin a tie at the 4½, 9, and 13½” marks.

      Sew around the hem twice, first about 1/4″ from the edge, and then about 1/2″. I just adjusted my needle position all the way to the right the first time around, and then all the way to the left the 2nd time.

      Now fold the selvage up to the 1/4″ stitching line. Sew 1/8″ from the edge of the selvage, and again 1/8″ from the fold. This binds up the raw edges of the ties nicely and also creates a stiff edge so that your case looks more symmetrical and doesn’t sag on the tie side.

      Your outside edge looks pretty cute too.

      There you have it!

      I hope you’ve had fun with this tutorial. While I was making these, I was thinking it would be really fun to make both the wall hanging and the pillow covers reversible, so that I could just flip everything around when the next season or holiday shows up. All you’d have to do, really, is applique another season’s shapes on the backside of the pillow, and make another wall hanging for the “backing” with the other colors. Do a little generic quilting, and voila! Easy to change holiday decor!

      The winter shapes are included with this tutorial, but I’ll be posting shapes for other holidays/seasons on my blog very soon. Come stop by! And if you decide to try out the reversible thing, let me know, I’d love to see it.

      1 seasonal wall hanging (29″ x 39″)
      4 throw pillow slipcovers (fits a 18″ or 20″ square pillow)

      April Rosenthal

      Snowflakes are Falling

      Hi again! It’s Natalia from Piece N Quilt. I am so excited about this new Christmas quilt. Even though I pieced and quilted the whole thing while it was 100 degrees outside, it still makes me excited for Christmas. Don’t forget to stop by my blog and my online quilt shop where kits and Fruitcake materials are available.
      1 Fruitcake Layer Cake
      Kits are available @ Piece N Quilt
      Start by cutting 168 – 4 1/2″ squares.
      Now take your 4 1/2″ squares and draw a diagonal line across them. As shown in the image above.
      Snowball all 42 of your layer cake squares. Sew across that diagonal line.
      After you’ve sewn across that diagonal line you will trim the excess material away. As shown in the image above.
      Now press the block. You should have 42 blocks that look like the above block.
      From the white material you will cut 18 – 1″x width strips.
      Now cut those strips into 4″x1″ strips.
      You will now create the point for your snowflakes.
      As shown in the image above, cut a diagonal line.
      Cut another diagonal line in the opposite direction to create a point.
      Using our starch applique tutorial , applique the points onto the 42 layer cake blocks as shown in the image above.

      Using the white grunge material, set your blocks using 1 1/2″ sashing. Arrange the blocks 7 across by 6. Refer to the picture below.
      Aadd a 3 1/2″ strip off Avalanche grunge material to the top of your quilt.
      Then add a 9″ strip of the Fruitcake Sugar Cookies material to the top.
      Now quilt, bind and enjoy all winter long.
      I like to add coordinating pillowcases to my quilts. Use our pillow case tutorial on my blog to make these darling Christmas pillowcases.
      1- 72 1/2″x74″ Snowflakes are Falling quilt.

      Thanks again! You can save 10% off your total purchase @ Piece N Quilt when you use discount code “modabakehop”.

      Stripey Skinny Seasonal Table Runner & Stripey Tiny Tree Skirt

      Hi there! It’s Melissa Mortenson from the Polkadot Chair, today I am going to share with you a tutorial for a Christmas Tree Skirt & Runner. I think this is my favorite project for Moda Bake Shop yet.

      Stop by my blog and say hi, ask me questions or let me know what you think!

      Do you have a cute little table top Christmas tree? Why not make a quick and easy tree skirt for it? Plus you will have enough fabric left in your honey bun to make this cute table runner to match!

      1 Figgy Pudding Honey Bun

      1 Figgy Pudding Turnover or Charm Pack

      1 Moda White Jelly Roll
      2 yds white fabric for backing
      1/4″ yd. or 1 fat quarter,  blue fabric for binding on tree skirt
      Embroidery floss
      Heat n Bond Lite
      Batting (I used quilters dream cotton)

      Very IMPORTANT! Before you begin to sew, if you want to make both the runner and the tree skirt make sure that you pick out all of your fabrics first! Otherwise you might run out of a color that you want.

      To begin, you need 11 honey bun strips. You need to set them up in a color pattern that starts in the center and mirrors out to the edges.  You want to match rows 1 & 11, 2 & 10, 3 & 9, 4 & 8, 5 & 7 and row 6 will be your center row.

      You need them to match because your are going to cut them into triangles, and flip the template after each cut. (if you are confused now, don’t worry just keep reading it will make sense with the photos).

      Sew all rows together with 1/4″ seam. Press all seams to one side.

      You need to make a template. To do this you need 1, 12×12 piece of scrapbook paper. Cut it to 9×12, find the center of the 9″ side, measure from the center down to the opposidte corners, cut. Repeat for other side.  For photo instructions to make the triangle click here (NOTE: your triangle will be 9×12, NOT  6×9 like in the photos)

      After you have made your template, lay it out on your sewn rows of fabric. Using your ruler & rotary tool, cut out the triangle, making sure that it is all the way over to the edge, you will need every centimeter of fabric, so double check it.
      Cut off selvage edges.

      You will get a piece that looks like this.

      Next, flip the template 180 degrees.  Line up the edge of the template with the cut edge of the fabric strip. Cut out your next piece.
      Flip template again and repeat, until you get 9 triangles… (note your last triangle you may be a little short, don’t worry still cut it, that will be the edge piece of your tree skirt).

      Arrange your cut pieces into a circle, alternating patterns. (you will have 2 next to each other that are the same pattern, use this as the “seam” or opening of your tree skirt).

      Sew pieces together with 1/4″ seam. Leave one seam open, this will be the openeing of your tree skirt.
      Cut out center of the skirt, leaving 1″ of the red strip still showing. (if your tabletop tree has a wider trunk, cut a larger hole).

      If you wish to hand embroider a phrase on your tree skirt do it now.  Print off your words, (the font I used is called Noodle). Then using a light box and a water soluble pen, trace the letters onto the tree skirt.
      Hand embroider, using a simple backstitch.

      When finished with the embroidery, layer with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I just did a stitch in the ditch.

      Cut 6 pieces of ribbon about 10″ long.  Pin to opening of tree skirt. Sew in place before you bind it.

      Sew on binding, making sure not to catch ribbon in binding.

      Now onto the table runner. This runner is LONG. It is 14″x 105″. I wanted a long runner to fit my big table. If you want it shorter just elimante some of the blocks.

      To begin:

      From your honeybun, collect 5 strips each of 4 different color ways. I used the blues, greens, reds & browns.

      Arrange how you like,  and sew togther with 1/4″ seam.  Press seam to one side.

      Cut strip into 3,  14″ pieces, cutting off selvage edges.
      Repeat with the other 3 colors.

      You will have 3 blocks each of 4 different colors (for a total of 12 blocks).
      Sew 2 white jelly roll strips togteher. Cut into 14″ pieces (same as you did for the honeybun pieces, remember jelly roll strips are wider, 2 1/2″ wide).
      Repeat this 4 times so that you have a total of 10 white blocks each 2 strips tall x 14″ wide.
      Cut 2 14″ pieces from 1 jelly roll strip.
      Note: I quilt on an embroidery machine so I  don’t have much control over where the stitches go, if you are free motion quilting this, BEFORE you sew your blocks together, skip to the applique steps.  It will be easier to applique the white blocks before they are sewn with the colored blocks. I think it would look nice to do echo quilting around the shapes on the white blocks.
      Sew blocks together.  This is the color arrangement that I used, but you can change yours to your taste (it would also look nice going dark-light)
      Row 1:   1 single- 14″ white jelly roll strip
      Row 2:   Brown, honey bun block
      Row 3:   White, jelly roll block
      Row 4:   Red, honey bun block
      Row 5:  White, jelly roll block
      Row 6:   Green, honey bun block
      Row 7:   White, jelly roll block
      Row 8:   Blue, honey bun block
      Row 9:   White
      Row 10: Red
      Row 11: White
      Row 12: Green
      Row 13: White
      Row 14: Blue
      Row 15: White
      Row 16: Red
      Row 17: White
      Row 18: Green
      Row 19: White
      Row 20: Blue
      Row 21: White
      Row 22: Brown
      Row 23: 1 – 14″ Jelly roll strip.
      You will have 1 brown block left over, you can use it if you need to make your runner longer.

      Layer runner with batting and backing and quilt as desired, I quilted mine with a interlocking circle pattern.
      Next applique…
      To cut the words out you can use the computer font method here.
      Or, if you ahve an electronic cutting machine (like a cricut),  you can use this method. You can also buy a chipboard alphabet at a scrapbook store that you like and trace those letters.

      Cut the words out with your machine 3 3/4″ tall. (you will need the words, cheer, merry, bright, joy, jingle), then flip the page over so the letters are backwards.  Trace onto a piece of Heat n Bond light.
      Roughly cut the letters out, and adhere (with your iron) to the back of your turnover pieces. (you could also use a charm pack, I just had a turnover on hand).

      Cut out, and iron onto your runner.
      This is how I laid out the applique on my runner: The color in parentheses is the color I cut the applique out of the turnover pieces. (the applique is only on the white blocks)
      Order of the white blocks: (refer to photos above).
      1:  trees (green)
      2: “merry” (red)
      3:  ornaments (blue)
      4: “bright” (blue)
      5:  peppermints (red/white)
      6: “cheer” (blue)
      7:  holly leaves (green)
      8: “joy” (red)
      9:   trees (green)
      10: “jingle” (brown)
      For the applique shapes, I used various clipart, for the holly leaves I used Camille’s pattern that she posted on moda bake shop last month. The peppermint swirls are also from that pattern, reduced 50%.
      Iron the appliques onto the runner. Stitch around each with a straight stitch. I just used raw edge applique with a straight stitch. I am okay if it frays (I actually prefer that look for this project).

      Bind using leftover honey bun strips. (you will need 5 strips)
      Sew buttons for the holly berries.

      1 runner and 1 tree skirt