Lucky Layers Tiered Dress in Size 2T


Hi, this is Anshu from Blooms And Bugs. When I started sewing this dress from Kate Spain’s Good Fortune Collection, I spent a lot of time fretting upon the color combination, choosing prints, etc. Finally I gave up because it was so difficult to pick just a few favorites from this line of amazing prints. I just decided to start with one print for the bodice and add other prints as I went. In hindsight though, I should have spared myself the trouble. This is such a well thought out collection that no matter what prints you put together, they will look great. Congratulations to Kate for coming up with such a fascinating collection. I’m calling this Lucky Layers dress, as a nod to the name of the line – Good Fortune. I hope you like the dress design and make it for the little girls in your life.


For a two year old size:

  • 3 layer cake squares for the bodice
  • 4 fat quarters – 3 for the skirt, 1 for the shoulder straps and bias tape on the bodice.
  • elastic thread for shirring



Drafting the bodice:

1.

Measure the waist of the child. Lets call this measurement W.

For the front bodice you will need two layer cake squares. I have taken two similar ones, but you could choose two different squares as well. Keep them on top of each other (right sides together).

2.

Measure 7 inches from one end of the length. Cut along the 7 inch mark to get a rectangle of 10 inches X 7 inches.

3.

On this rectangle, measure 4 inches from top left corner on the width (10 inches side). Mark this point (Point A). Join this point to the bottom left corner with a slanted line.

4.

At the diagonally opposite corner, measure 3.5 inches in length  (8 inches side). Mark this point. as Point B.

5.

Now join point A and point B with a convex curve. There’s no right or wrong here, just draw a curve that looks pleasing to you. You could even draw a straight line if you are not comfortable drawing a curve.

6.

Cut out the curve and the slanted line you drew.

7.

Pic above shows the two bodice pieces you will get.

8.

Now overlap the slanted lines of these pieces by 3 inches.

9.

Take a layer cake square and cut it in half in length. Join the two pieces on the shorter side  (right sides together).

10.

Now fill your bobbin with elastic thread and sew 4-5 seams on this rectangle about 1 inch below the edge. Here’s a great tutorial on shirring in case you’re not familiar with shirring.

11.

Now measure how wide you want your back piece to be. You have to first measure the overlapped front bodice and deduct it from the total waist measurement W ( taken in step 1). The back piece should be equal to the remaining width +1 inch sewing margin. Now measure the shirred piece to the required width on both sides of the seam you made to join the two layer cake halves. It is important to do the shirring first and then measure the back piece because shirring is a function of lot of factors – fabric type, machine, elastic thread type etc. The final shirred width of a given fabric is difficult to determine beforehand, so it is best to shir a lengthy piece first and then cut it to the required width.

Sew the back to the front bodice on both sides with right sides together. Make sure that the top edges of both back and front pieces line up. There will likely be a small length of back piece hanging off because we have cut the back piece longer than the front. We will fix it later.

12.

Make bias tape with one fat quarter. Here’s a tutorial on how to make five yards of bias tape from one fat quarter. Sew the bias tape on the slanted edges of the front bodice. If the back bodice piece is longer than the front bodice, cut it off at this point to equal the bodice bottom edge.

13.

Now leave about 10 inches hanging and sew the bias tape to the rest of the top edge of bodice starting from one end of the front bodice, leave another 10 inches hanging at the other end for ties.

14.

Sew a seam on the hanging bias tape, making it into narrow straps for shoulders.

Making the skirt:

15.

Cut two strips 4.5 inches long and 18 inches wide from a fat quarter. Join them at both short ends ( right sides together), to make a wide tube. This will become the first tier of the skirt.

16.

From another coordinating fat quarter, cut three strips 4.5 inches long and 18 inches wide, join the three strips together with a seam along the short ends (right sides together). These will become the second tier of the skirt.

17.

  • Now sew a seam along the raw edge of tier 1 with the widest stitch possible. Pull the bobbin thread gently to gather the tier slightly. Make the gathered skirt equal to the bodice width.
  • Sew a seam along the raw edge of tier 2 with the widest stitch possible. Pull the bobbin thread gently to gather the tier slightly. Make the gathered skirt equal to the width of tier1.
  • Sew tier 2 to the ungathered edge of tier 1. Right sides together.

Joining the skirt and the bodice:
18.

Sew the raw edge of tier 1 to the raw edge of bodice, right sides together

19.

Sew the hanging ends of shoulder straps to the back if you like. Here you have the option keeping them hanging and having a halter neck dress, or sewing them at the back straight or across. Sew them at the back whichever way you like, or keep them loose for a halter neck dress.

20.

At this point you can decide if you want it to be a short dress or a long one. Both look equally cute. If you decide to go for a long one, take another fat quarter and cut 4 strips 4.5 inches long and 18 inches wide. Join all the four strips at shorter ends (right sides together). This will become tier 3. Fold one end twice with the minimum width possible and sew a seam. At the raw end sew a seam with the widest stitch length, pull the bobbin thread to gather it slightly and sew it to the raw end of tier 2, right sides together.

21.

Serge the raw inner seams on each tier, or sew a zig-zag if you don’t have a serger.

Your Lucky layers dress is ready. Put it on the little one, bet she’s been waiting to wear this one.

PS: I get queries about how to make a given clothing in bigger sizes so I decided to include some notes on how to extend the pattern to bigger sizes.

The dress can be made in a variety of sizes with the same basic construction. To make it bigger you could use any/all of the following tips

1. Keep more of the shirred bodice piece you prepare. I had to cut off about half of it to make it in a two year old size. So if you like to make it in a bigger size keep more of it, that would add a few inches to the bodice width. Also shirring at the back ensures that the dress fits for a long time on a growing child.

2. Add longer shoulder straps. For older kids, you could easily add about two inches to the shoulder straps. In fact, I keep about two inches of shoulder straps hanging off at the inside of the dress, just so I can extend the dress length if I need to.

3. Add one more tier to the skirt. The thing to keep in mind here is that the maximum 4.5 inch strips possible from a fat quarter are 4 (which I have used above). So if you want to add one more tier, you may need more than a fat quarter. However, you could always mix two prints and make a patchwork tier. I think it would look good.

Anshu Jain
{Blooms And Bugs}

Jumbo Coins Baby Quilt

Hi there, it’s Natalia from Piece N Quilt! I’m super excited today to share this super simple baby quilt. I love giving baby quilts as gifts to friends when they have new babies so I’m always on the lookout for a simple but cute baby quilt pattern.
Hope you enjoy this quilt today!

1 Good Fortune Layer Cake
1 Yard Bella Solids White
1/4 Yard Coordinating Binding
2 Yards Moda Snuggles Backing (if you are using regular fabric for backing you will need 4 yards)
Quilt kits are available over at Burgundy Buttons!

Begin by cutting your layer cake in half. Creating 5″x10″ rectangles.

From your Bella Solids White cut 14 – 2″x WOF strips.

Using the attached template cut 6 flower petals, one small flower center (3″ circle, a cup works great for a template) and one large flower center (a 3 1/2″ circle) and one large Bella Solids White circle (I used a large mixing bowl for this template).

Sew the 5″x10″ rectangles into strips, 5 strips of 12 blocks.


I pieced the leftover strips together and pieced them into the backing.


Now sew the rows together using the 2″ white fabric as your sashing and borders. As shown in the image above.

Using the applique technique of your choice applique the flower onto the lower right hand corner of the quilt top. (I prefer to use starch applique, here is my free tutorial)

Quilt, bind and enjoy!

A super simple baby quilt that can be made in less than one day!

1 – 58″x58″ Jumbo Coins baby quilt.

I have to share a little picture of the quilt backing.

Being a machine quilter I don’t love working with minky type materials. But… I had never used the Moda Snuggles before so I decided that this was a great quilt to try it out on. Let me tell you! It is AWESOME!!! I will definitely use the Moda Snuggles AGAIN!

Thanks for checking out my tutorial today!

Stop by my blog to see what I’m up to!

Quilt kits are available over at Burgundy Buttons!

Natalia Bonner
{Piece N Quilt}

Belle Layered Skirt for Toddlers

Hello Moda Bake Shop readers. I am Anshu from Blooms And Bugs. I mostly sew little girls clothes. Today I’ll show you how to make this pretty layered skirt with 2 half-yard fabrics. I chose Kate Spain’s Good Fortune collection for this skirt and I loved how the fabric brought out the best in the skirt.


2 half yards of coordinating fabric (there will be quite a bit of leftover)

1 jelly roll strip for Bias tape at the hem of inner layer

1 jelly roll strip for ruffle at the hem of outer layer

1 jelly roll strip for belt loops

1.5 yard Grosgrain ribbon for belt (about 1.5 inch wide)

For making the skirt in a 2 year old size:

Cutting and preparing the layers:

Cut two rectangles of length = 11.5 inches and width = 36 inches from two coordinating fabrics.

Sew both rectangles into a tube by sewing raw ends together along the length (right sides together).

Now place the outer layer fabric so the seam lies in the middle

Fold one-third of the width over itself from one side.

Fold one-third from the other side.

Mark on the fold on both sides. Basically, we’re trying to mark the thirds on bottom of each side of this tube.

Once we have our marks, sew a U shaped seam (about quarter inch apart) of 6 inches starting from the bottom of this tube and going up vertically at each of the marks. I have shown the seams by the ugly black lines above. Leave some thread hanging at both ends of these seams. We will use them to gather the top layer vertically.

Making Belt Loops:

Cut 4 pieces of 4 inches from a jelly roll strip.

Fold and sew a seam about quarter inch on one end of width. I cut 5 of these but used only four in the skirt.

Fold in the in half along the width with right sides together and sew a seam along the length. The width of strip is actually too wide for the belt loops so I recommend a sewing margin of half inch for these.

Turn out and press so the seam is in the middle.

Your belt loops are ready.

Assembling the skirt:

Please read the instructions carefully here. This skirt is assembled a little differently than other skirts so make sure you follow the instructions, or you will be cursing me and reaching for your seam ripper very soon.

Place the outer layer tube inside the inner layer tube so the right side of outer layer touches the wrong side of inner layer. Make sure you keep the bottom part (where you had sewn vertical seams earlier) at the bottom. In the pic I have shown the outer layer peeking out, but that is just to show you how to place them. While sewing, the edges should be perfectly aligned.

Now insert the belt loops between the two layers. Here, be careful to place belt loops so that:

1. The raw end of the loop is at the top, lined up with the raw edges of layers. Here I have shown it sticking out a bit just to show you what I mean and also because the length I chose is a little longer than required. You can also let them hang out half an inch or so to make it easy to place them.

2. The seam should be facing the right side of outer layer.

3. Although you could the placement of loops yourself, I found it very easy to use the vertical seams in the outer layer as a guide for belt placement. It gave me perfectly spaced belt loops.

Now sew all around the edge of the skirt layers, while inserting the belt loops as you go (or just pin up everything before you sew):

This is how mine looked after sewing.

Cut the extra from the belt loops.

Turn out.

Topstitch as close to the edge as you can.

Sew another seam just above the other end of belt loop, so the belt loop gets sewn down and elastic casing gets prepared all at once. Leave a gap of one inch for inserting the elastic.

Finishing the hems:

To make a ruffle for the outer layer, fold and cut a jelly roll strip in half along the length. Sew together two short ends (right sides together) to make a long narrow strip.

Now hem it at one long edge. I serge the edge and then fold and sew a seam, but any technique – rolled hems or folding twice would work as well. What we really want is a thin strip that is hemmed on one side, and we’ll ruffle it on the other side.

Now we will ruffle this strip by setting machine tension to highest and stitch length to longest. Note that I didn’t hem my strip before ruffling and it was a big pain to do it afterward, you don’t want to do it like me. Just hem it first.

By the way, isn’t that fabric so pretty…?

Now pull the thread of the vertical seams gently to gather the skirt vertically. Adjust with hand until you get a shape you like. Now sew a narrow zigzag seam to fix the gathers.

Now attach the ruffle you just made by sewing a seam at the raw ends (right sides together)

Use another Jelly Roll strip to make a bias tape. This is not really a bias tape since these strips are not cut on the bias, but for this project it won’t matter because we are using it on a straight fabric.

Now use this bias tape to hem the inner layer of the skirt. The way I sew bias tape is line up the raw end of smaller side of bias tape with the raw end of skirt edge and sewing along the fold in the tape. Once this seam is done, I fold the tape to the other side and sew as close to the (but not on the) top edge of the tape on the right side. This ensures that I catch the other fold of the tape on the wrong side.

Inserting elastic in the skirt:

Remember this space you had left while sewing the waistband. Lets insert the elastic here.

Using a safety pin, insert elastic here and go all the way round and back to the opening. One rule of thumb I follow to determine elastic length is to measure the waist of the child and cut an elastic 3-inches shorter than that. You could also tie the elastic around her waist and see what length is comfortable on her.

Sew both ends of the elastic by overlapping them about half inch.

I use the stitch 1-14 on my machine that looks like a broken zigzag stitch to sew elastic, but if you don’t have it zigzag would work as well. Just go over the elastic 3-4 times.

Belt:

Cut a grosgrain ribbon that is long enough to be looped through the belt loops and tied into a bow in front. Cut diagonally at the ends and seal with a lighter flame, or with fray check to prevent fraying.

Size 2T Belle Layered skirt that is ready for a little one!

Anshu Jain
{bloomsnbugs.blogspot.com}