E-Gadgets Bed Runner


Today on the Bake Shop I will be presenting a bed runner with pockets to store all your e-gadgets, such as iPads, iPhones, Tablets, laptops and Kindles. Using the Japanese themed fabrics of Kasuri, I created this very simple runner, based on a print pattern found in the collection.

The techniques used in this project are a combination of English Paper Piecing, Applique and piecing. English Paper Piecing (EPP) is a wonderful technique to construct complex pieced blocks or blocks with many ‘Y’ seams. The hand piecing makes it a great “On the Go” project to take anywhere.

The Runner for this project is designed for a Queen Size bed.


1 Layer Cake of Kasuri
3 yards Kasuri 32686-20 for background
3/4 yd fabric for binding
2 3/4 yards of backing fabric
Paper or medium weight, non woven interfacing
Sewline Glue stick
Applique Glue


Cut from the background fabric:

3 – 18 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ squares Piece A
2 – 24 1/2″  x WOF. Cut into 4 – 12 1/2″ x 24 1/2″ piece D (pockets)
10 – 3 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles Piece B

From the Layer Cake cut:

54 – Template A
21 – Template B
28 – 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares Piece C

From the binding fabric cut:
8 – 2 1/2″ x WOF. Set aside 2 strips for the pocket binding.

Make the Stars
Templates A and B can be found in the PDF version of this pattern within this post.

Step 1:
Trace Template A onto your interfacing/paper. Cut out. Make 54.
Trace Template A onto the wrong size of the fabric. Cut out piece leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance around each piece. Make 54.

Step 2:
Press seam allowance over interfacing / paper and glue.

Step 3:

To make each star segment, whipstitch 3 –  Piece A right sides together in the following order, 1, 2 and 3. Don’t worry about the little tails at the ends. They will be covered by the appliqué circles.

Whipstitch pieces with right sides together from point to point using
small stitches and matching thread.

Step 4: Join 3 segments together to form a half star. Repeat.

Step 5: Join both halves of the star together.

Step 6: Starch and Press. Gently remove papers/interfacing.

Make the Circles

Step 7: Trace Template B onto the wrong size of the fabric. Cut out piece leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance around each piece. Make 21.

Step 8: Sew a running stitch at edge of fabric circle. Starch, gather fabric and press. Make sure you smooth out the pleats around the edge of the circle.

Step 9: Gently remove papers/interfacing.

Step 10: Place a dab of glue on the wrong side of three circles and position one in the centre of each star.  Applique in place.

Hint: Use glue sparingly. You only need a small drop of applique to hold the piece. Don’t glue too near to the edges that you are stitching.

Making the background blocks

Step 11: Sew Piece C on each end of Piece B. Repeat 5 more times. Make 6 units.

Step 12: Sew units to Piece A. Make 3 finished blocks.

Step 13: Fold the finished block in 4 and press to find centre. Position the star so the widest measurement from point to point of the hexagon shape is aligned top to bottom.  Glue the star to the background block. Applique the star onto the background. Glue 6 circles on points of star and appliqué in place. Position the 4 circles on the edge of the block at least 1/4″ in to allow the adjoining sashing to be sewn to the block.

Make Sashing

Step 14: Sew 2 C Pieces together. Make 8 units.

Step 15: Sew finished units to Piece B. Make 4 finished blocks.

Assemble the Runner

Step 16: Sew sashing strips to the background blocks.

Step 17: Sew 1 – Piece D to each end of runner.

Quilting the runner

At this stage the runner and pockets are quilted and trimmed.

Step 18: Layer, baste and quilt the pieced runner and 2 x Piece D. (These remaining Piece D are the outside pockets)

Step 19: Trim quilted Pieces D to 12 1/2 x 24 ” and the runner 24″ x 90 1/2″

Sewing the pockets

Step 20: Cut 2 – 2 1/2″ x 24″ strips of binding fabric and make a folded binding.

Step 21: Sew binding to top of quilted Piece D.

Step 22: Lay Piece D, right side up, on edge of runner and baste 1/8″ around 3 sides leaving the binded edge open. Repeat for other side.

Step 23: Determine the width of the e-gadgets that will sit in the pockets. Mark the vertical and horizontal lines on the pocket and sew using a matching thread.

I have an iPad and iPhone to add to my pockets. I slipped the devices in the pocket and left a good margin around each and marked with a chalk pencil. For the iphone, I made the pocket divider shorter  so I could easily find the phone. The centre pocket will contain a space for my sketch book.


If devices are small and you don’t want them to be lost
in the deep pockets, stitch an horizontal line.

Finishing the runner

Step 24: Bind the raw edges of the runner.

Hint: Slow down when sewing through the double layers of the pockets.

Finished size: 24″ x 90″ (Queen Size Runner)
Finished Block size 18″ x 24″

Jane Davidson
{quiltjane.blogspot.com}

60-Minute Gift: Bake ‘n’ Fry Dividers


The holiday season is approaching and now is the time to start sewing and making gifts for friends and families. Today I will be sharing a quick project which can be made in under an hour to brighten up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick cooking surfaces.


1 x Summerville Layer Cake
1 yd Bella solid snow 9900-11
1 yd Flannel
Light weight iron on pellon
Fusible web


Baking Tray Liners ( 30 mins )

  • Measure the baking tray. Record the measurement. For the purpose of this tutorial I will be making a liner to suit a 10″ x 15″ base. If you have have a smaller or larger tray, add 1/2″ to the measured length and width.

  • From the solid cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips
  • From the print cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips

  • Alternate the solid and print and sew strips together
  • Finished block is 8 1/2″ x 10″
  • Make 3 blocks

  • Cut each block twice on the diagonal

  • Sew 2 triangles together to make a half square triangle (HST). Repeat with remaining triangles.
  • Square each HST to 5 1/2″

  • Arrange in 2 rows of 3 blocks each
  • Sew together
  • Finished top measures 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″

  • From the solid cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
  • From the iron on pellon cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
  • Press the pellon to the wrong side of the solid piece
  • Place the solid and top piece right sides together. Pellon will be on the outside.
  • Sew 1/4″ from edge leaving a 4″ gap at the top for turning.
  • Trim the corners and turn out. Use a stiletto or pointed object to push out seams and corners.
  • Fold under opening 1/4″ and top stitch 1/8″ around edge of liner.

  • Trace the letters ‘BAKE’ (these can be found in the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of this post) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
  • Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
  • Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
  • Position and press onto front of liner
  • Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.


Hint: These liners are meant to be scrappy in nature. There are unlimited block designs and scrappy settings that could be used as long as the unfinished top is 1/2″ longer and wider than the base of the tray.

Frying Pans ( 30 mins)

  •  Measure the diameter of the pan including the sides.  Record the measurement.
  • Cut strips from the Layer Cake and make a piece measuring 10″ x 48″
  • Using a 60 degree triangle ruler or the 60 degree marking on your ruler, cut 6 triangles from the strip
  • Sew 3 triangles together. Repeat.

  • Join the two rows together.

  • Cut a circle ( using a compass / pencil and string / large plate ) 1″ larger than the diameter, including sides, of your pan. For example, my pan measured 15 1/2″ from side to side. I would cut a circle with diameter of 16 1/2″
N.B The hexagon made from the 6 triangles can accommodate a circle up to 17″ in diameter.

  •  From the flannel cut a circle the same size as the top

  • Place the flannel and top piece wrong sides together.
  • Sew 1/4″ from edge using a shorter stitch
  • Using pinking shears, cut around edge 1/8″ away from stitching.
N.B these liners do not require pellon
Two options for appliqué 

  • Cut a piece 6″ x 10″ from print
  • Stitch to centre of liner
  • Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
  • Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
  • Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
  • Position and press onto 6″ x 10″ piece
  • Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

  • Cut a 5 1/2″ circle from layer cake
  • Stitch to centre of liner
  • Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
  • Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
  • Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
  • Position and press onto liner centre
  • Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.


Two baking and fry pan liners to dress up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick surfaces.

Jane Davidson
{quiltjane.blogspot.com}

Children’s Bed Runner & Matching Quilt

I am always excited to share a project with you using the beautiful fabrics from Moda. Today’s project is using a marriage of a Bella solid – American Blue 9900-174 with Sweetwater’s Lucy’s Crab Shack. This collection is a wonderful mix of colours suitable for both girls and boys.


The triangle blocks used in this projects are cut without templates. Therefore each block may have a unique character.

The quilt and runner were designed for a king single bed (mattress size approx. 42″ x 80″).

  • 1 – F8 Bundle of Lucy’s Crab Shack by Sweetwater (31 SKU’s)
  • 8.5 yards solid ( Bella Solid American Blue 9900-174)
  • 7 yards for quilt backing / runner centre – light blue dot (5486-22 Ocean)
  • Fusible webbing
  • 7 yards of trim or bias binding.
  • Dark blue embroidery floss


Please read instructions for both quilt and runner before starting.

Quilt
From the solid blue cut:

  • 3 – 13 1/2″ x 90″ strips for solid rows
  • 22 – 9″ x 9″ squares (Piece 1)
  • 22 – 2″ x 7″ rectangles for Block B
  • 22 – 2″ x 16 1/2″ strips for sashing
From the prints cut:
  • 44 – 6 1/2″ x 9″ rectangles (Piece 2)
  • 36 – 2 1/2″ x 10″ strips for scrappy binding (Calculated for binding joined with a straight seam not at a 45 degree angle )
From the light blue dot cut:
  • 5.5 yards and halve to make 2.75 yard pieces. Join lengthwise to make backing piece.
Runner

From the solid blue cut:

  • 2 – 24″ x 16″ for pocket backing
  • 2 – 26″ x 41″ and join to make 26″ x 82″ piece for runner backing
  • 8 – 2 1/2″ strips for pocket and runner binding
From the prints cut:
  • 8 – 5″ x 5″ squares for applique
From the light blue dot cut:
  • 11 1/4″ x 46″ rectangle
  • 2 – 15 1/2″ x 22 1/4″
T-shirt applique template can be found in the PDF version of this post.
Quilt



Block A – Large Flag, 22 blocks

  • Find the centre of Piece 1 by folding lengthwise in half and finger pressing.
  • Lay right side up.
  • Find centre of Piece 2 and place right side up on Piece 1 using matching the centres. ( 3 1/4″ )
  • Cut a triangle by starting at the 3 1/4″ centre mark and ending at the bottom corners of Piece 2.
  • Important :Keep the offcuts aside for use in the runner
  • Using a 1/4″ seam, sew from base of triangle to point. Press towards the solid. Repeat for the other side.
  • Use the 3 1/2″ marking on the ruler to find midpoint of triangle. Trim block back to 7″ x 8 1/2″ leaving 1/4″ inch seam allowance above triangle point.
  • Make 44
FInished Block 7″ x 8 1/2″
Block B – Small Flags, 22 blocks
  • Use 22 of the large flags and trim block to 7″ x 7″ using the 3 1/2″ marking on the ruler to find midpoint of the triangle.
  • Add a 2″ x 7″ strip of solid to the base of each block
  • Make 22. Finished size 7″ x 8 1/2″
Quilt Assembly
  • Layout pairs of Block A and Block B in rows of 11, alternating between the large and small flags. 
  • Label the rows 1 and 2. 

 

Hint: For Row 1, I started with Block A and row 2, Block B.

  • Sew pairs together.
  • Sew a 2″ x 16 1/2″ sashing strip to the tops of each block in Row 1.
  • Sew a 2″ x 16 1/2″ sashing strip to the base of each block in Row 2.
  • Measure through the centre of each row and note length. They should be approximately 88 1/2″.
  • Cut the solid 13 1/2″ x 90″ strips to the measured length
  • Sew finished rows and solid strips together.
  • Layout and pin trim, meandering down centre of flag blocks. Attach to quilt using a zig zag stitch and matching thread.
Hint: I chose a trim with a flower to make the quilt suitable for a girl. You could use a 1/4″ wide bias strip instead.

  • Quilt as desired and bind using a scrappy binding made from joining 10″ x 2 1/2″ strips of the print fabric together with a straight seam.

Runner


Block C – Make 44

  • Using the off-cuts from Blocks A and B, sew a print each side to the solid triangle.
  • Press seams towards the print.
  • Use the 2 1/2″ marking on the ruler to find midpoint of triangle. Trim block back to 5″ x 6″ leaving 1/4″ inch seam allowance above triangle point.
Finished block 5″ x 6″
  • Make 44
Pockets

  • Sew 4 – Block C to make a row.
  • Repeat for Rows 2 and 3.
  • Sew Rows together reversing the direction of Row 2
  • Layer the pocket backing, wadding* (*batting) and pocket front and quilt as desired. Trim back to 14″ x 22 1/4″.
  • Cut 2 – pieces of 2 1/2 x 22 1/4″ binding strips and bind top edge of pockets

Centre piece

  • Sew 10 Block C’s together. Alternate the triangles facing up and down – Row 1
  • Repeat for bottom row – Row 3. Finished size of Rows 1 and 3 – 6″ x 46″
  • Take Row 2 – (11 1/4″ x 46″ blue spot rectangle) and sew Rows 1, 2 and 3 together
  • Using left over trim from bed quilt, undulate the trim starting 3″ from top of row 2. Pin and sew in place.
  • Trace T-Shirt pattern onto dull side of fusible webbing. Cut around shape leaving 1/8″ allowance. Press shape onto wrong side of fabric and cut on pencil line. Peel off backing and position on Row 2. Press onto Row 2 just below trim. Using your favourite appliqué stitch, sew around edge of T-shirts.
  • Using a few strands of dark blue embroidery floss. Sew little clothes pegs from trim to T-shirt.
Runner Assembly

  • Sew the 15 1/2″ x 22 1/4″ blue dot rectangles to each end of the centre section.
  • Layer the backing, wadding and centre piece and quilt as desired.
  • Place the pockets at each end of the finished centre piece and attach the pockets, using a tacking stitch 1/8″ from edge.
  • Bind the runner.


Quilt – Finished size – approx. 70″ x 88″
Runner – Finished Size approx. 22″ x 75″

 

Jane Davidson
{quiltjane.blogspot.com}

Pink with a Splash of Orange Quilt



Hi, I am Quiltjane and I am happy to be back baking for the Bake Shop. Today I am presenting a very simple baby quilt using a combination of Bella solids, one Cape Ann charm pack and yardage of Cape Ann brushed cottons to create a subtle texture and cosy feel to the quilt.

The dictionary definition of ‘Brushed cottons’ is: “Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish” The brushed cotton fabrics were beautiful to cut and sew, making the perfect combination for a cuddly quilt fit for a baby.

1 charm pack Cape Ann by Oliver + S

2 1/2 yards brushed cotton print 11186 12 B
1 1/2 yard pink striped brushed cotton print 11188 12 B
1/2 yard orange solid – Bella 9900- 162 Amelias Apricot
1 1/2 yard pink solid  – Bella 9900-145 Sisters Pink
54″ x 54″ batting

Cutting:
From the Charm Pack cut:
32 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles (2 per charm square ) – Piece E
32 – 1 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 3 per charm square ) – Piece H
16 – 2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 2 per charm square ) – Piece K
From the pink solid cut:
11 – 1 1/2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1/2″ x 12″ pieces – Piece F
8 – 2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece B
5 strips –  2 1/4″x WOF for binding
From the pink stripe fabric cut:
13 strips WOF. Cut these into 64 – 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece D
6 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pieces – Piece H
From the brushed cotton print cut:
7 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece I
8 strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece C
The remaining 1 1/2 yards will be used for the backing with left over pieces from the other fabrics.
From the orange solid cut:
8 – 1 1/4″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 1 1/4″ x 18″ pieces – Piece A
2 – 2″ strip WOF. Cut into 16 – 2″ x 5″ pieces – Piece J
Make 8 of each

Place Pieces G and H at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.

Assembly:

N.B: All seams are pressed open.
For Block A and Block B

  • Sew a 1 1/2″x 5″ charm (Piece H) to 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (Piece G) using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″ 
Fold back and press open seam

  • Sew a 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (piece D) to each end of 2 1/2″ x 5″ charm piece using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
Fold back and press open seam. Repeat for other end of piece E.
Place Pieces D and E at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.
Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″

  • Join pieces A, B and C. Fold in half and press to find centre of each piece. Make 16.
  • Fold remaining strips and use centre line as reference point to join all strips.

  • Trim block to 12 1/2″ square. Place the 45 degree line down the centre of the orange strip.

  • Layout the blocks.

  • Sew together to make rows.
  • Sew rows together.

  • Make your backing using the remaining brushed cotton fabric and left over fabrics.

  • Layer quilt top, batting and backing. Quilt as desired and bind.

Finished Quilt size: 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″
Finished block size: 12″ x 12″
Alternative Quilt Layouts

I hope you enjoyed this project. If you make this quilt or any of my other MBS projects, I would love to see them posted on my Flickr group at Want it Need it Quilt.

Happy quilting!

Jane Shallala Davidson
{http://www.quiltjane.blogspot.com}

Christmas Ribbons


‘Tis the season to be Jolly, Fa la la la la la la la la. Hi, I am Quiltjane from Want it, Need it, Quilt and I am very excited to be back with a festive recipe – Christmas Ribbons. It is winter in Australia and the perfect time to make Christmas projects and snuggle up near a toasty fire.

Today, I bring you a quilt made with French General’s Fa La La La La collection. I have combined piecing and applique to create a ribbon effect that twines its way throughout the blocks.

1 x Fa la la la Layer Cake

  • 1/2 yd 13586-16
  • 1/2 yd 13587-14
  • 1/2 yd 13582-11 (Binding)
  • 1 1/4 yds 13583-14
  • 1/2 yd 13529-70
  • 3 1/2 yards backing fabric
  • Heat n Bond Light
  • Template plastic

Cutting
From the light coloured yardage and layer cake squares cut:

  • 36 x 7″ squares, cut on the diagonal to yield 72 triangles
  • 18 x 4 1/4″” dark squares and 18 x 4 1/4″ light squares
  • 72 x 3 1/4″ squares
  • 144 x 2 1/2″ x 6 1/4″ rectangles
    Sashing blocks 144 – 2.5″ x 6.25″
    Ribbon pinwheels 72 – 3 1/4″ squares
    Pinwheel Blocks 18 dark and 18 light  – 4 1/4″ blocks
    Makes 12 pinwheels and 12 half pinwheels

    These are the four blocks we will be making.

    From top left: Sashing block, Pinwheel
    Ribbon Pinwheel, and Ribbon block

    Pinwheels – Make 12 Full, 12 Half

    To make the pinwheels:

    • Place a light coloured 4 1/4″ square right sides together with a dark coloured 4 1/4″ square.
    • Sew 1/4″ inch all the way around the border of the squares.
    • Cut once across the diagonal and then without separating the block, cut on the opposite diagonal. Press open the seams.

    This technique yields 4 half square triangle ( HST’s )

    • Trim back evenly to make an unfinished 2 1/2″ square (or sew together first and then trim back to 4 1/2″ unfinished block)
    • Sew four HST’s together to make one pinwheel. Make 12 in total.
    • Sew two HST’s together to make half pinwheels. Make 12 in total.

    Sashing Blocks – Make 30

    • Make 30 sashing blocks by sewing 2 – 6 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ strips together. Keep the remaining 24 single strips for outer sashing.

    Ribbon Blocks – Make 36

    • Cut the 7″ light coloured blocks once on the diagonal to yield 72 triangles.

    • Trace the large ribbon template onto the fusible web ( Heat n Bond light ). Template can be found in ‘Printer Friendly’ version at the bottom of this post.
    • Cut around trace line leaving 1/8″ around curve line. ( Stops the fabric fraying when bonded and cut ).
    • Don’t forget to leave 1/4″ seam allowance as indicated on the template.
    • Press to back of fabric and cut on trace line.
    • Peel off the backing paper and press ribbon appliqué onto a large triangle piece. Make sure to centre the ribbon.
    • With right sides together, sew the two pieces together along the longest side of the triangle. Press seam to one side.

    Trim finished block to 6 1/4″ square. Remember to leave 1/4″ at each tip of the ribbon appliqué when cutting.

    • Using matching thread machine appliqué your ribbon along the curve.

    Ribbon Pinwheel Blocks – Make 13 Full, 8 half, 4 single
    These are made the same way as the larger ribbon blocks.

    • Cut the 3 1/4″ squares on the diagonal to yield 72 triangles.
    • Trace the small ribbon template onto the fusible web (Heat n Bond Light). Don’t cut on the trace line. Leave 1/8″ allowance.
    • Fuse to dark fabric per manufactures instructions. Cut on trace line for arc but leave a 1/4″ seam allowance beyond the template. Make 72.
    Leave a 1/4″ seam allowance.
    • Peel the backing off the fusible web and iron on one triangle, making sure to centre the ribbon appliqué.
    • Place another triangle right sides together and sew along the long side. Trim back to 2 1/2″ squares.
    • Remember to trim the blocks evenly, leaving 1/4″ at each tip of the ribbon.
    • Make 13 blocks as illustrated below
    • Make 8 half blocks and keep 4 single blocks.
    • Using matching thread, machine appliqué the curves of each ribbon

    Putting the quilt top together

    The quilt is sewn in 13 rows as illustrated below.

    • Layout your rows on the floor or design wall to ensure everything is facing the correct way, then sew the blocks together to make a row and then sew the rows together.
    This pattern has a slight variation. The ribbons in the pinwheels are facing upward.

    Finishing the Quilt

    • Layer backing, wadding and quilt top together and quilt as desired. I used an all over feathery pattern with fine matching thread.
    Back of Quilt
    • Cut 6 2 1/4″ strips across the width of the binding fabric and piece the strips together at a 45 degree angle. Attach binding and stand back and admire your festive masterpiece.

    Yield
    One festive quilt 58.5″ x 58.5″

    Garnishes
    Spice it up with tiny yo-yos (suffolk pokes) or Christmas buttons in the centres of the pinwheels and ribbon pinwheels.

    I hope you have enjoyed today’s Christmas recipe. Please upload a photo to my Flickr gallery if you make any of my MBS projects. I would love to see them.

    Jane Davidson
    {Want It, Need It, Quilt!}

    Flying Kimonos


    The Japanese have many beautiful traditions one of which is the art of Sashiko. I found a Sashiko pattern that looked like little arrowheads and adapted it to make a quilting block. The following quilt showcases one placement of the block to make a very colourful lap quilt using Modern Workshop by Oliver + S. Liesl Gibson has painted a palette of vibrant hues and subtle designs which made it so much fun to make these Kimonos Fly.

    1 x Modern Workshop Jelly Roll
    2 yards of main border fabric (use length to cut borders)
    1.25 yard Moda Bella Solid – Chocolate 9900 41
    1.75 yard Moda Bella Solid – Moda U Brown 9900 71

    The instructions are for a 9 block layout. With careful planning and cutting you can make 12 blocks from one Jelly Roll.

    These blocks while they look complex, are quite simple to make. The block is constructed using a strip piecing method cut at 45 degrees. There are three main rules to follow when making these blocks.

    1. Consistency in your seams. Keep an accurate 1/4″ throughout.
    2. Do not stretch your fabric or pieces. I use spray starch to stabilise my fabrics. I only press my piecing. Do not use steam. Only press a section when complete. This will avoid over pressing.
    3. Most importantly, always cut your completed strip sets at 45 degrees using the middle seam as a point of reference. If you cut your strips accurately and consistently, they will fit together perfectly when sewing the rows together.

    Planning

    Each block will consist of 17 separate fabrics for the arrowheads, one orange print kimono, one brown print kimono tail, and dark brown kimono tail and sleeve.

    • Select two (2)  brown strips and two orange strips (2) from your Jelly Roll. These will be your Kimono fabrics.
    • Cut 4 x 2.5″ strips WOF from dark brown solid for Kimono tails and sleeves.
    • Select 34 different fabrics from the Modern Workshop Jelly Roll. Each strip set will yield five (5) to six (6) strips blocks. For this tutorial, we will only use nine (9) in total.
    • Cut the strips in half to yield 2 x approximately 22″ strips.
    Set 1 – Five blocks

    Set 2 – Four blocks
    • Make a line drawing of this block and cut a snippet of each fabric and glue or pin to drawing. This will help you organise your strip sets.
    Remember to place the dark brown solid, brown, and orange prints in the positions below. These form the Kimonos.
    Placement of Fabrics for the Kimono Pattern
    • Layout your strip sets in rows and sew together. Stagger your strips 2″ from top or bottom depending on the orientation of the rows. (See diagram below).
    • Press open Seams.
    • Cut the strip sets into rows 2″ wide at a 45 degree angle.

    The rows must be cut at a 45 degree angle. There is a marking on most rulers. I used a 6.5″ squaring ruler to achieve my 45 degree orientation. I placed the centre line of the ruler on the middle seam and then butted another ruler up against it. Reverse this process to cut the opposite direction.

    • When you have cut all strip sets into rows, lay them as shown below. You will need to cut nine (9) left diamonds and nine (9) right diamonds to add to the ends from the dark brown fabric.
    • Sew each row together staring from the left. The intersecting seams should fit snuggly together. Pin well and slow down when you come to each seam intersection. Press open your seams when block is completed.
    • Cut block – Your finished block should be 12 1/2″. When you cut each block, make sure you place the 45 degree angle of your squaring ruler down the centre and cut each block exactly the same.
    Adding the Sashing
    • Cut 1″ strips WOF from the lighter brown solid.
    • Cut six (6) strips the width of your block – 12 1/2″
    • Layout your blocks so the Kimonos all lay in the one direction.
    • Sew the sashing strips to the top of two (2)  blocks and join to make a row of three. Press seams outward.
    • Repeat to make two more rows of three (3) blocks.
    • Measure across your sets of three finished blocks. Take the average of the two measurements and cut two (2) x 1″ strips of the lighter brown solid to make the sashing to join the rows. Sew together making sure the sashing intersections all align. Press seams outward.
    Adding the borders

    Border 1
    • Measure across the centre of the quilt.  Using 2″ strips of the lighter brown solid,  sew to top and bottom.
    • Measure from top to bottom of quilt and add 2″ border strips to sides of quilt.
    Border 2
    • Measure across the centre of the quilt. Cut 1″ strips of dark brown solid and 6 1/2″ strips of main border fabric. Sew 1″ dark brown solid strip to main border fabric. Sew to top and bottom of quilt.
    • Measure from top to bottom of quilt and sew a 1″ dark brown solid strip to main border fabric and sew left and right borders.
    Binding and Quilting
    • Make sure quilt is square.
    • Cut 2 1/2″ strips of the dark brown solid and make double fold binding.
    • Sew binding to quilt.
    • Quilt as desired. I have machine quilted this project using an all over pattern.

    Block size 12 1/2″
    Quilt Size 54″ x 54″

    One colourful lap quilt.

    These are alternative block layouts, which would look fabulous in any of the beautiful fabrics designed for Moda, especially their Bella solid range.

    Jane Davidson
    {Quilt Jane}

    A Very Morris Piano Runner




    I am always glad to be baking at Moda. From my quilting kitchen today, I have gathered the savoury tastes of William Morris and baked a piano runner.

    For this project you will need:

    • 2 x ‘A Morris Tapestry’ Charm Packs by Barbara Brackman
    • 1/2 yard of dark blue fabric for border and binding
    • 1/4 yard for peeper border
    • 1/2 yard wideback fabric 60″
    • Fusible Webbing
    • Wadding
    • Template Plastic


    Step 1 – Sorting the charms

    • From the two packs choose twenty four (24) dark / medium charm squares
    • From the two packs choose twenty four (24) medium / light charm squares
    Medium / Dark set
    Medium / Light set

    Step 2 – Create the background

    • From the medium / dark squares, sew two (2) rows of twelve (12) squares each
    • Press open the seams
    • Join the two (2) rows together to make the twenty four (24) square background

    Step 3 – Prepare the applique leaves

    • Make a template by drawing on a piece of light cardboard or heavy weight paper a 6″ line. Mark the midpoint at 3″. Next, divided the line into sections at 1 1/2″ intervals either side of the midpoint. At the midpoint draw a 2 1/2″ line across (equal distance on both sides of 1 1/4″s). At the other points draw a 2″ line (equal distance of 1″ on both sides). Carefully draw the outer leaf shape on one side only. Fold in half, cut along the line and fold out. Voila, a perfect leaf shape. Now trace it onto template plastic and you have a leaf template.
    • Select pairs of the medium / light squares.
    • Place a pair right side together and draw one line from corner to corner.
    • Sew either side of the line using 1/4″ seam allowance.
    • Cut on the pencil line to yield two (2) half triangle squares.

    • Press the seams open and leave the tails. (There is not much room for error when fusing the leaf to the block)
    • Trace the leaf shape onto the back of the fusible webbing
    • Cut around the leaf shape leaving a 1/8″ allowance.
    • Accurately lay the leaf (adhesive side down) on wrong side of block and line up the centre along the seam line. Make sure the leaf is on the fabric and press down with iron set on recommended heat setting for fusible product. I suggest using baking paper to avoid any adhesive getting on the ironing surface.
    •  Cut along the trace line of the leaf and voila, your first leave. Repeat Step 3 until you have made twenty four (24) leaves.



    Step 4 – Applique leaves to background

    • Each leaf will be placed on a square as shown below. Make sure the the centre point is exactly where the blocks intersect at the seams  and the outer tip is in lined up with outer corner. There should be a 1/4″ allowance between the outer point of the leaf and the corner.



    Step 5 – Applique

    • Machine applique around each leaf. I have used a very small stitch in a neutral colour. A decorative or raw edge finish would also enhance the block.

      Step 6 – Adding Borders 

      Border 1

      • Cut four (4) x 1 1/2″ strips WOF of border fabric
      • Measure through the centre of the runner lengthways and add  border to top and bottom.
      • Measure top to bottom and add side borders.

      Peeper Border

      • Cut four (4) x 1″ strips WOF of peeper fabric
      • Press in half lengthways
      • Measure through the centre of the runner lengthways and add peeper border to top and bottom.
      • Measure top to bottom and add side peeper borders.
      Using a longer stitch, sew 1/8″ from edge so that the stitching line is hidden when binding is attached.

      Step 7 – Quilting and Binding the Runner

      • Layer the backing (right side down), wadding and quilt top together. Baste and quilt as desired.
      • Cut four (4) 2 1/4″ strips from the WOF (width of the fabric).
      • Sew binding strips together using a 45 degree angle.
      • Press in half lengthwise and sew to runner.
      • Cut back backing, and wadding layer to a scant 1/4″. (Be careful not to cut quilt top and binding)
      • Fold binding over to the back and stitch in place.


      One very Morris Piano Runner.


      ….. and I used the left over charms to make a piano stool cover.



      (P.S Alternatively, use the leftover charms to make the runner backing or get more fabric and make a quilt)

      Finished Block 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
      Finished Runner Size approx. 56 1/2″ x 11 1/2″

      Jane Davidson
      {quiltjane.blogspot.com}